My friends, I have an RCA T 63 AM-SW radio, and found an item under the chase broken. It's shaped like a black cough drop only a bit bigger and it says 150 on it, what is it? There are 3-4 in the set, but this one the end is broken and I don't know if it's a capacitor, resistor or what it is. Can you help me identify it? There is no sound coming from the unit at all Any suggestions where to start as to diagnosing the problem? Thanks in advance for the help.
Further the

I hope that this helps,

Dave
:Hello:
:
:My friends, I have an RCA T 63 AM-SW radio, and found an item under the chase broken. It's shaped like a black cough drop only a bit bigger and it says 150 on it, what is it? There are 3-4 in the set, but this one the end is broken and I don't know if it's a capacitor, resistor or what it is. Can you help me identify it? There is no sound coming from the unit at all Any suggestions where to start as to diagnosing the problem? Thanks in advance for the help.
: Further the

God Bless,

Dave

:Dave,
: Yes, there are three 150 pf (pico-farad) capacitors in this radio. Radio Shack has a pack of assorted low value disc capacitors that should work to replace it. You may have to put 2 or more in parallel to get 150. Like three 47 pf capacitors. These are very tiny capacitors. The set wouldn't be completely dead if this capacitor was open. The amplifier would work but you may not be able to receive anything. There may be a faint hum heard through the speaker. If the center terminal on the volume control is touched, you may also hear a louder hum.
:
:I hope that this helps,
:
:Dave
::Hello:
::
::My friends, I have an RCA T 63 AM-SW radio, and found an item under the chase broken. It's shaped like a black cough drop only a bit bigger and it says 150 on it, what is it? There are 3-4 in the set, but this one the end is broken and I don't know if it's a capacitor, resistor or what it is. Can you help me identify it? There is no sound coming from the unit at all Any suggestions where to start as to diagnosing the problem? Thanks in advance for the help.
:: Further the

marv

:Dave: First, thank you for your response, but a question, are you sure this is a capacitor or is it a resistor, again it's all black and shaped like a Smiths Brothers cough drop. Typically the capacitors are wax/paper but this does not look like the wax/paper ones at all. There are two more of these, and they are not all 150s, one other says 100, and the 3rd says 220. Do you still think they are capacitors? Further, when I hook it up to another speaker there is a very faint hum coming from the speaker and that it. Do you have any further thoughts on what might be wrong? Again thanks
:
:God Bless,
:
:Dave
:
:
:
::Dave,
:: Yes, there are three 150 pf (pico-farad) capacitors in this radio. Radio Shack has a pack of assorted low value disc capacitors that should work to replace it. You may have to put 2 or more in parallel to get 150. Like three 47 pf capacitors. These are very tiny capacitors. The set wouldn't be completely dead if this capacitor was open. The amplifier would work but you may not be able to receive anything. There may be a faint hum heard through the speaker. If the center terminal on the volume control is touched, you may also hear a louder hum.
::
::I hope that this helps,
::
::Dave
:::Hello:
:::
:::My friends, I have an RCA T 63 AM-SW radio, and found an item under the chase broken. It's shaped like a black cough drop only a bit bigger and it says 150 on it, what is it? There are 3-4 in the set, but this one the end is broken and I don't know if it's a capacitor, resistor or what it is. Can you help me identify it? There is no sound coming from the unit at all Any suggestions where to start as to diagnosing the problem? Thanks in advance for the help.
::: Further the

Are there any RCA reapirers/experts out ther who are familuar with his radio RCA T63? Thanks guys.

:Dave,
:Sounds like an older paper cap in a molded case. The case may be Bakelite, but not sure. Some were even molded to look like dot mica caps of yesteryear, but thats another story, which was discussed at length on this forum.
:
:marv
:
::Dave: First, thank you for your response, but a question, are you sure this is a capacitor or is it a resistor, again it's all black and shaped like a Smiths Brothers cough drop. Typically the capacitors are wax/paper but this does not look like the wax/paper ones at all. There are two more of these, and they are not all 150s, one other says 100, and the 3rd says 220. Do you still think they are capacitors? Further, when I hook it up to another speaker there is a very faint hum coming from the speaker and that it. Do you have any further thoughts on what might be wrong? Again thanks
::
::God Bless,
::
::Dave
::
::
::
:::Dave,
::: Yes, there are three 150 pf (pico-farad) capacitors in this radio. Radio Shack has a pack of assorted low value disc capacitors that should work to replace it. You may have to put 2 or more in parallel to get 150. Like three 47 pf capacitors. These are very tiny capacitors. The set wouldn't be completely dead if this capacitor was open. The amplifier would work but you may not be able to receive anything. There may be a faint hum heard through the speaker. If the center terminal on the volume control is touched, you may also hear a louder hum.
:::
:::I hope that this helps,
:::
:::Dave
::::Hello:
::::
::::My friends, I have an RCA T 63 AM-SW radio, and found an item under the chase broken. It's shaped like a black cough drop only a bit bigger and it says 150 on it, what is it? There are 3-4 in the set, but this one the end is broken and I don't know if it's a capacitor, resistor or what it is. Can you help me identify it? There is no sound coming from the unit at all Any suggestions where to start as to diagnosing the problem? Thanks in advance for the help.
:::: Further the

marv

marv

:The case could indeed be bakelite, but are they capacators or are they resisters.
:
:Are there any RCA reapirers/experts out ther who are familuar with his radio RCA T63? Thanks guys.
:
:
::Dave,
::Sounds like an older paper cap in a molded case. The case may be Bakelite, but not sure. Some were even molded to look like dot mica caps of yesteryear, but thats another story, which was discussed at length on this forum.
::
::marv
::
:::Dave: First, thank you for your response, but a question, are you sure this is a capacitor or is it a resistor, again it's all black and shaped like a Smiths Brothers cough drop. Typically the capacitors are wax/paper but this does not look like the wax/paper ones at all. There are two more of these, and they are not all 150s, one other says 100, and the 3rd says 220. Do you still think they are capacitors? Further, when I hook it up to another speaker there is a very faint hum coming from the speaker and that it. Do you have any further thoughts on what might be wrong? Again thanks
:::
:::God Bless,
:::
:::Dave
:::
:::
:::
::::Dave,
:::: Yes, there are three 150 pf (pico-farad) capacitors in this radio. Radio Shack has a pack of assorted low value disc capacitors that should work to replace it. You may have to put 2 or more in parallel to get 150. Like three 47 pf capacitors. These are very tiny capacitors. The set wouldn't be completely dead if this capacitor was open. The amplifier would work but you may not be able to receive anything. There may be a faint hum heard through the speaker. If the center terminal on the volume control is touched, you may also hear a louder hum.
::::
::::I hope that this helps,
::::
::::Dave
:::::Hello:
:::::
:::::My friends, I have an RCA T 63 AM-SW radio, and found an item under the chase broken. It's shaped like a black cough drop only a bit bigger and it says 150 on it, what is it? There are 3-4 in the set, but this one the end is broken and I don't know if it's a capacitor, resistor or what it is. Can you help me identify it? There is no sound coming from the unit at all Any suggestions where to start as to diagnosing the problem? Thanks in advance for the help.
::::: Further the

T.

Thank you, at present I am planing to replace the 10Uf, 10uf, 20uf electrolytic capacitor. The radio is dead, nothing but a bit of a hum. I need some help as to where I should start as to determining the source of the problem. Any diagnostic outline you could provide would be really helpful. Please, I very much need your help, any particular weaknesses of these radios that usually fail. I replace most of the caps, but no change. Thanks in advance for your help.

God Bless,

Dave

:The cough drops are capacitors. They are both mica and paper. I have two RCAs with them, and have seen others. Strangely they crack open quite a bit, and even the mica ones can be leaky.
:
:T.

You will typically end up in replacing those three capacitors with much better items that were initially used in the set
whether you opt to use either a disc ceramic capacitor of the proper rating or a silver mica. I suppose that the units in
question are the three items that I have Marked up in the green boxes on the schema, ...I asume.

They are non critical units with the C25 and C16 being units that are used to strip the RF from the detected audio and
inhibit the very high AF frequencies a bit, while the C18 one is also shunting off some of the high frequency AF at the
plate of the 1st audio amp's plate circuitry.

The really more critical places, where one would want to see silver mica used for the small pf values, would be over
in the red boxed areas, but I am expecting them to be premium units and not be a problem on your set.

Since you say the set is stilll not wukkin'...with the mentioned cps changed out later when u get some..... confirm if your
problem is in the power supply distribution by confirming all plate and scrreen voltage levels being proper.


Then inject a 60~test signal into the 6F6 AF 1st grid and then the 6SQ7 1st audio's 1st grid via a ,01---.1 ufd cap; getting its 60~
source from pin #8 of the 'SQ7 and being injected via using the other lead of that injection capacitor. If that " hums out ", then
see if your tuning eye tube is responsive as you tune across the AM broadcast band and reacts to stronger stations, that would be indicative of your frontal RF statges, anmd conversion working right on up to the secondary of the 2nd IF transformer..


Standing by.....

Schema:.....

73's de Edd

:Mah Friends, and you are mah friends:
:
:Thank you, at present I am planing to replace the 10Uf, 10uf, 20uf electrolytic capacitor. The radio is dead, nothing but a bit of a hum. I need some help as to where I should start as to determining the source of the problem. Any diagnostic outline you could provide would be really helpful. Please, I very much need your help, any particular weaknesses of these radios that usually fail. I replace most of the caps, but no change. Thanks in advance for your help.
:
:God Bless,
:
:Dave
:
:
:
::The cough drops are capacitors. They are both mica and paper. I have two RCAs with them, and have seen others. Strangely they crack open quite a bit, and even the mica ones can be leaky.
::
::T.

Thank you, you always provide the most concise details and great schematics. I would like to post some pictures along with one of my message. Could you give me some details on how to do that. Perhaps the pictures would better illustrate the problems I am encountering.

God Bless,

Dave B.
:
:
:
:
:
:You will typically end up in replacing those three capacitors with much better items that were initially used in the set
:whether you opt to use either a disc ceramic capacitor of the proper rating or a silver mica. I suppose that the units in
:question are the three items that I have Marked up in the green boxes on the schema, ...I asume.
:
:They are non critical units with the C25 and C16 being units that are used to strip the RF from the detected audio and
: inhibit the very high AF frequencies a bit, while the C18 one is also shunting off some of the high frequency AF at the
:plate of the 1st audio amp's plate circuitry.
:
:
:
:The really more critical places, where one would want to see silver mica used for the small pf values, would be over
: in the red boxed areas, but I am expecting them to be premium units and not be a problem on your set.
:
:Since you say the set is stilll not wukkin'...with the mentioned cps changed out later when u get some..... confirm if your
:problem is in the power supply distribution by confirming all plate and scrreen voltage levels being proper.
:
:
:Then inject a 60~test signal into the 6F6 AF 1st grid and then the 6SQ7 1st audio's 1st grid via a ,01---.1 ufd cap; getting its 60~
:source from pin #8 of the 'SQ7 and being injected via using the other lead of that injection capacitor. If that " hums out ", then
:see if your tuning eye tube is responsive as you tune across the AM broadcast band and reacts to stronger stations, that would be indicative of your frontal RF statges, anmd conversion working right on up to the secondary of the 2nd IF transformer..
:
:
:Standing by.....
:
:
:
:Schema:.....
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:73's de Edd
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
::Mah Friends, and you are mah friends:
::
::Thank you, at present I am planing to replace the 10Uf, 10uf, 20uf electrolytic capacitor. The radio is dead, nothing but a bit of a hum. I need some help as to where I should start as to determining the source of the problem. Any diagnostic outline you could provide would be really helpful. Please, I very much need your help, any particular weaknesses of these radios that usually fail. I replace most of the caps, but no change. Thanks in advance for your help.
::
::God Bless,
::
::Dave
::
::
::
:::The cough drops are capacitors. They are both mica and paper. I have two RCAs with them, and have seen others. Strangely they crack open quite a bit, and even the mica ones can be leaky.
:::
:::T.

Here are the voltage readings from the 5Y3G Rectifier and 6F6G Amplifier tubes

5Y3G; Pin 1 0v, Pin 2 106v, Pin 3 1v, Pin 4 36.6v, Pin 5 0v, Pin 6 36.7v, Pin 7 0, Pin 8 106v

6F6G; Pin 1 0v, Pin 2 0v, Pin 3 0v, Pin 4 0v,
Pin 5 0v, Pin 6 0v, Pin 7 6v, Pin 8 0v

Even to a novice such as me there appears to be something radically wrong. Is the transformer shot, or does the problem lie else where?

marv

:My Friends:
:
:Thank you, at present I am planing to replace the 10Uf, 10uf, 20uf electrolytic capacitor. The radio is dead, nothing but a bit of a hum. I need some help as to where I should start as to determining the source of the problem. Any diagnostic outline you could provide would be really helpful. Please, I very much need your help, any particular weaknesses of these radios that usually fail. I replace most of the caps, but no change. Thanks in advance for your help.
:
:God Bless,
:
:Dave
:
:
:
::The cough drops are capacitors. They are both mica and paper. I have two RCAs with them, and have seen others. Strangely they crack open quite a bit, and even the mica ones can be leaky.
::
::T.

They also remind me of some small black WIMA branded units that I used to get from “Chermanee..back in that time frame. They also, later exhibited the same crazed spider work line formation tendencies on the outer housing…along with a slight surfactal whitening of the initially ebony black finish.

73's de Edd

:Dave,
:Yes, that black hex shape is reminincent of paper caps I used on a project in the late 50's.
:
:marv
:
::My Friends:
::
::Thank you, at present I am planing to replace the 10Uf, 10uf, 20uf electrolytic capacitor. The radio is dead, nothing but a bit of a hum. I need some help as to where I should start as to determining the source of the problem. Any diagnostic outline you could provide would be really helpful. Please, I very much need your help, any particular weaknesses of these radios that usually fail. I replace most of the caps, but no change. Thanks in advance for your help.
::
::God Bless,
::
::Dave
::
::
::
:::The cough drops are capacitors. They are both mica and paper. I have two RCAs with them, and have seen others. Strangely they crack open quite a bit, and even the mica ones can be leaky.
:::
:::T.

:The cough drops are capacitors. They are both mica and paper. I have two RCAs with them, and have seen others. Strangely they crack open quite a bit, and even the mica ones can be leaky.
:
:T.

Heeeeeyy Preacher Dave…it certainly looks as if some of your volts leaked out of that unit or are being pulled down by loading, or possibly not even being developed due to the first two electrolytics low capacitance ,( if they are not new units in that position.....and we don't wanna even think of a power t-former...plus, you probably don't smell it or feel it...right ?)


That initial meager 109 VDC off the 5Y3 is just too low of a B+ value for the unit, if any or some of the above are not occurring. Just fo’ grins, initially sub in another 5Y3 if you can borrow one from another set.

Then I guess the first of many routes to potentially troubleshoot would be to have the set powered down and take an ohmic reading from test point [A] to [D] to confirm the integrity of your sets speakers field coil….and the associated wiring in line. Then move the second probe in from [D] to [C] to [B] to see if the resistance in line shows up and then eventually be metering from to [B] ] to [C]..right across the field coil. If that is not present
then that field coil winding is the problem right there.

ZUJ’ing……standing by

New markup of your schema with the B+ routing in red squares:

73's de Edd

Heeeeeyy Preacher Dave......


It certainly looks as if all of your volts leaked out of that unit or are being pulled down by loading, or not even being developed due to the first two electrolytics low capacitance ,( if there are not new units in that position.)


That initial 109 VDC off the 5Y3 is just too low of a B+ value for the unit if any or some of the above are not occurring. Just fo’ grins, initially sub in another 5Y3 if you can borrow one from another set.

Then I guess the first of many routes to potentially troubleshoot would be to have the set powered down and take an ohmic reading from test point [A] to [D] to confirm the integrity of your sets speakers field coil….and the associated wiring in line. Then move the second probe in from [D] to [C] to [B] to see if the resistance in line shows up and then eventually be metering from to [B] ] to [C]..right across the field coil. If that is not present
then that field coil winding is the problem right there.

ZUJ’ing……standing by

New markup of your schema with the B+ routing in red squares:

Backup image hosting in case the above hosting is down…like it was…. when I posted:

73's de Edd

Again I appreciate your help, it is immeasurable. I will take the readings, but it may be a few days before I am able to get back to you in that I; 1. am currently preparing this Sabbath's sermon 2. Until I can figure out where all these points are in the radio. It looks easy in the schematic but actually locating them in the radio, for me a novice, is another thing. The diagrams you send are really great and put things in perspective. What program are you running to accomplish this?

As to the transformer, it seems ok in that there is no excessive heat, or smell.

As for the electrolytic in the set it was a 10 mfd, 10mfd, 20 mfd unit which I replaced with the blue colored electrolytic 10uf, 10uf, 20uf, with the negative sides tied together and grounded to the chase. A point of interest here is when I take the jumper cable I am temporarily using to attach the negative sides off the electrolytic to the chase off the chase under power there is no spark at all, and it seems that there should be

I do not have another 5Y3 so I can't do that. It seems that the radio is dead beyond the 5Y3 tube?

Question, how do I upload pictures to put on the site here so you can see what I am encountering?

Again, thanks for all the help, I truly appreciate it.

God Bless,

Dave B.

:
:
:
:
:
:Heeeeeyy Preacher Dave......
:
:
:It certainly looks as if all of your volts leaked out of that unit or are being pulled down by loading, or not even being developed due to the first two electrolytics low capacitance ,( if there are not new units in that position.)
:
:
:That initial 109 VDC off the 5Y3 is just too low of a B+ value for the unit if any or some of the above are not occurring. Just fo’ grins, initially sub in another 5Y3 if you can borrow one from another set.
:
:Then I guess the first of many routes to potentially troubleshoot would be to have the set powered down and take an ohmic reading from test point [A] to [D] to confirm the integrity of your sets speakers field coil….and the associated wiring in line. Then move the second probe in from [D] to [C] to [B] to see if the resistance in line shows up and then eventually be metering from to [B] ] to [C]..right across the field coil. If that is not present
:then that field coil winding is the problem right there.
:
:
:
:ZUJ’ing……standing by
:
:
:
:New markup of your schema with the B+ routing in red squares:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
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:Backup image hosting in case the above hosting is down…like it was…. when I posted:
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:73's de Edd
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I'm back, the RCA is still dead and I don't know why. Edd, I don't know where these contact points are that you show on the schematic. Can you help me identify them. Further, there is little or no voltage in the amplifier tube and the rectifier tube has low 37v to moderate voltage 106v. Please, I really want this radio to work, it's my first one and it's a nice radio. Thanks for your support.

God Bless,

Dave B.

:Edd:
:
:Again I appreciate your help, it is immeasurable. I will take the readings, but it may be a few days before I am able to get back to you in that I; 1. am currently preparing this Sabbath's sermon 2. Until I can figure out where all these points are in the radio. It looks easy in the schematic but actually locating them in the radio, for me a novice, is another thing. The diagrams you send are really great and put things in perspective. What program are you running to accomplish this?
:
:As to the transformer, it seems ok in that there is no excessive heat, or smell.
:
:As for the electrolytic in the set it was a 10 mfd, 10mfd, 20 mfd unit which I replaced with the blue colored electrolytic 10uf, 10uf, 20uf, with the negative sides tied together and grounded to the chase. A point of interest here is when I take the jumper cable I am temporarily using to attach the negative sides off the electrolytic to the chase off the chase under power there is no spark at all, and it seems that there should be
:
:I do not have another 5Y3 so I can't do that. It seems that the radio is dead beyond the 5Y3 tube?
:
:Question, how do I upload pictures to put on the site here so you can see what I am encountering?
:
:Again, thanks for all the help, I truly appreciate it.
:
:God Bless,
:
:
:Dave B.
:
::
::
::
::
::
::Heeeeeyy Preacher Dave......
::
::
::It certainly looks as if all of your volts leaked out of that unit or are being pulled down by loading, or not even being developed due to the first two electrolytics low capacitance ,( if there are not new units in that position.)
::
::
::That initial 109 VDC off the 5Y3 is just too low of a B+ value for the unit if any or some of the above are not occurring. Just fo’ grins, initially sub in another 5Y3 if you can borrow one from another set.
::
::Then I guess the first of many routes to potentially troubleshoot would be to have the set powered down and take an ohmic reading from test point [A] to [D] to confirm the integrity of your sets speakers field coil….and the associated wiring in line. Then move the second probe in from [D] to [C] to [B] to see if the resistance in line shows up and then eventually be metering from to [B] ] to [C]..right across the field coil. If that is not present
::then that field coil winding is the problem right there.
::
::
::
::ZUJ’ing……standing by
::
::
::
::New markup of your schema with the B+ routing in red squares:
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::Backup image hosting in case the above hosting is down…like it was…. when I posted:
::
::
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::73's de Edd
::
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::

Vel l l …… I am thinking that step one might be to go that reference [B] where you have the junction of three connections:

1…The raw B+ from the 5Y3 tube

2…The input electrolytic filter capacitor… C22

3….And the connection to the L9 field coil of the electro dynamic speaker .

Disconnect the speaker connection wire at the left connection shown on the schema and meter across C22 and then fire up the set and wait for warmup and that will confirm if the low voltage is from a loading on down the B+ distribution line, or just the sets fallacy of not enough B+ being developed right at that point initially.

Have those two electrolytics been replaced ?

On your query on finding and associating those test points on the schema as to the physical location of the components….
its probably easiest for you to start at the end of the trail at a tube pins connection and physically trace the path back to the point where it branches off from the main B+ buss.

Example :

Top right corner of the schema, there is the plate of the 6F6..pin3… which travels over and will connect to a wire coming from the output transformer, with one .005 capacitor tied in at some point along that line. There is a power path thru the output transformer primary and then there is another wiring connection made from the output transformer over to where it passes over to G2..Pin 4… of the 6F6. That connection then passes down via a wire to the point where it ties into the main B+ buss at [D] and then you can see that juncture then branches out down to the other side of the speaker field coil and the second B+ filtering capacitor. Back at the point [D] that B+ feed line passes to the left to feed all of the rest of the set.


Standing by for feedback



73's de Edd

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:::73's de Edd
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Only if the unit is very, very low in capacitance…e.g…… if a used or old stock
capacitor(s)was used…..or if the replacement

unit was installed back-um-wards ….with reversed polarity.
BUT
it should start showing its disapproval after an infinitestimely wee bit of time, and have the rectifier tube and P-T former react accordingly !

The wire lead that connects / spot welds to the alumininy-yum-yum metallic case of the capacitor can is negative polarity,
while the positive lead wire goes to a connector nub that is insulatively isolated from the metal case.

73's de Edd

::
::
::
::
::Vel l l …… I am thinking that step one might be to go that reference [B] where you have the junction of three connections:
::
::1…The raw B+ from the 5Y3 tube
::
::2…The input electrolytic filter capacitor… C22
::
::3….And the connection to the L9 field coil of the electro dynamic speaker .
::
::Disconnect the speaker connection wire at the left connection shown on the schema and meter across C22 and then fire up the set and wait for warmup and that will confirm if the low voltage is from a loading on down the B+ distribution line, or just the sets fallacy of not enough B+ being developed right at that point initially.
::
::Have those two electrolytics been replaced ?
::
::
::
::On your query on finding and associating those test points on the schema as to the physical location of the components….
::its probably easiest for you to start at the end of the trail at a tube pins connection and physically trace the path back to the point where it branches off from the main B+ buss.
::
::Example :
::
::Top right corner of the schema, there is the plate of the 6F6..pin3… which travels over and will connect to a wire coming from the output transformer, with one .005 capacitor tied in at some point along that line. There is a power path thru the output transformer primary and then there is another wiring connection made from the output transformer over to where it passes over to G2..Pin 4… of the 6F6. That connection then passes down via a wire to the point where it ties into the main B+ buss at [D] and then you can see that juncture then branches out down to the other side of the speaker field coil and the second B+ filtering capacitor. Back at the point [D] that B+ feed line passes to the left to feed all of the rest of the set.
::
::
::Standing by for feedback
::
::
::
::73's de Edd
::
::
::
::
::
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:::::Backup image hosting in case the above hosting is down…like it was…. when I posted:
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:::::73's de Edd
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The electrolytic caps in question are brand new, the blue units. When installed they never got warm, nor did the transformer. The caps negative ends were wound together and grounded to the frame of the radio. The positive ends were attached to ther respective wiring and the caps values were as was the original electrolytic. Yet last year when working on the radio I did voltage readings on the two suspect tubes and there voltages were at that time as follows: (6F6G) pin 1, 0v; pin 2, 6.3v; pin 3, 260v; pin 4, 250v; pin 5, -18.6v; pin 6, 0v; pin 7, 6.7v; pin 8, 17v (5Y3G) pin 1, 0v; pin 2, 5v; pin 3, 41v; pin 4, 360v; pin 5, 0v; pin 6, 360v; pin 7, 0v; pin 8, 5v Now the readings are (6F6G) all pin's 0v except pin 7 which is 6V. (5Y3G) pins 2 and 8 are 106v; pins 4 and 6 are 37v, all other pins are 0v. In light of this something happened between this and last year. There may be one bad cap, a 100 uuf cap that I am awaiting a replacement for. I attempted to reconnect the old electrolytic at one point to see if that made a difference, when connected ther was a hum in the speaker but I must have had one of the jumper wires grounded because the electrolytic can became hot and started steaming (that can't be good) thus I am in a quandary as to where the primary problem is and how to fix it. Whats your thoughts doc, does the patient have a chance? D God Bless,

Dave B.

The voltages that you gave me just above….. before your problems onset ……, is reading just like a working radios power supply and AF output stage.

But NOW, you don’t have enough B+, so read again what I said about taking that one connection of the speaker field that is shown as being the left connection on your schematic. In that manner, we will only have the power T-former, the 5Y3 and one electrolytic ( the left one) involved…with all of the loads on the B+ downstream being shed.

Hopefully that B+ will get up to the norm and then we can start reconnecting , IF the problem was not found to be in this area that we are questioning now. BTW…. if that electrolytic which REVOLTED from abuse[the electrolytic can became hot and started steaming ]was the left one on the schema, we definitely don’t want it used, as that unit was KAPUT.

Reviewing:

All that we want connected is that circuitry within the yellow box now and then you take the B+ reading of the + on that first…sole….electrolytic left in circuit.

73's de Edd

Guys,

Has it been determined the 5Y3G is good or another known good 5Y3 been substituted.

Radiodoc
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Regards and happy hunting
Steve

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Bob E.