This radio uses a selenium rectifier. Have you checked voltage to be sure it's good? On the schematic it shows a voltage of 140, above SE1. If this voltage is low replace the selenium rectifier with a silicon diode. 1N4004 - 1N4007 will work and only costs a few cents.
Other parts, such as caps, should be replaced in a radio of this age.
Norm
http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel/565/M0025565.pdf
:My H723 picks up AM great but fades to nothing then comes in stong for awhile then fades again and so on and so on. Is it a tube? wich one? Also FM doesn't come in at all. Any help out there?
Hi Brett,
I have become a bit of a specialist on this kind of radio. I have a complete one on eBay now.
These radios are notorious for Silver Mica disease. It usually hits the descriminator IF first and also often hits the combination IF in the middle.
I test the transformers for leakage just like I test capacitors for leakage on a capacitor analyzer. Leakage on a transformer will be between primary to secondary. This is caused by silver migraiton in the silver mica wafers in the base of the transformers. This allows plate voltage from a previous stage to leak into the grid circuit of the next stage, disrupting its bias.
A more feindish form of silver mica disease causes the silver mica capacitors to open, making the transformer untunable, and sometimes intermittant.
That is the most likely cause of the FM problem. Your particular AM problem resembles something I have heard on two radios recently of this type. AM fades out then spontaneously comes back. I had one that was dead for three days, then AM came back and it played for months with no problem. I have another one now that seems to fade after some time of playing. I am working on it now.
By the way I agree with Norm's comments on the Selenium rectifyers. I recommend that after you replace the Selenium, also replace the 22 ohm with a 6o ohm 3 watt resistor. The new diode has less voltage drop, and the 60 ohms is needed to put the voltages right.
When they get going they sound great. I have one in the bedroom that has worked fine for four years. The nice thing is that they get FM. These are one of the most challenging radios for restoration, from an electronics stand point.
Best Regards,
Bill Grimm
Once the tubes are OK, then check the sockets. I have found socket failure on many of these sets. The 19T8 is most often affected.
After those checks, Silver Mica Disease is the most common problem. To get a handle on silver Mica disease, I have found a capacitor analyzer indespensable. Do you have one?
One thing in your favor is that AM when it is on seems to be clear. Classic Silver Mica disease sounds like someone is in the audio booth with the radio announcer constantly crumpling up a newspaper.
Best Regards,
Bill Grimm
Brett,
If you would like to see a picture of a selenium rectifer, check out:
http://www.theodoregray.com/PeriodicTable/Elements/034/
It is down about the middle of the page or so.
Radiodoc
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Hey Doc, Thanks, It does help. I also got the Zenith part# 212-7-SE1. I'll order the diode and resistor and change them out.
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:
Hi Brett,
Two ideas on your fading AM. First, fading is of course normal on distant stations on AM at night. Second, if the fade happens on local stations also, look to see if the filaments of the tubes fade also. If so you have a tube with an intermittant filament.
On your dead FM, try checking the voltages at the the pin and the lug of the socket. I have often found bad tube sockets on these.
If your bad FM is caused by a tube, the bad tube is most likely the 19T8. You can order a 19C8. They work fine and cost less.
Another test is to momentariy swap the 12AU6 and one of the 12BA6. If you lose the AM, then the 12AU6 is bad.
Another test is to check the voltage on pin 1 of the 12AU6 when in FM position. It needs to be negative on the order of -0.4 volts. If it is zero or positive, then you have a bad IF transformer.
For the replacement diode, I use 1N4004 or 1N4007. They are cheap and common. Since it is an H723, not an H724, you will have plenty of tie points for mounting the diode, resistor, and new filters.
All the Best,
Bill Grimm
All the Best,
Bill
All the Best,
Bill
Hi Brett,
I calculated about 0.2 amp going through the resistor. This means the 51 ohm will dissipate a full 2 watts, perhaps a little bit more. It should be OK. The 9 ohm will dissipate 0.4 watts no problem there.
Best Regards,
Bill
One more thing. Make sure the end of the new diode that has the line connected to the radio circuitry. The other end, the anode, connects toward the mains. The resistor(s) can go on either end.
All the Best,
Bill Grimm
:O. K., I’m back to being a little confused. If I took a 51 Ohm 2 Watt and a 9 Ohm 1 Watt in series, I would have the 60 Ohm, but would I have the 3 Watts I need?
:
:One more thing. Make sure the end of the new diode that has the line connected to the radio circuitry. The other end, the anode, connects toward the mains. The resistor(s) can go on either end.
:
:All the Best,
:
:Bill Grimm
Hi Planigan,
I did the calculations a while ago, and got 0.2 amps of current draw.
Using ohms law, P = I * I * R, power dissipated by the 9 ohm resistor is 0.36 watts. A 1/2 watt will work fine here. Brett's resistor is 2 watts. The 51 ohm is a little iffy. I get 2.04 watts. I would want a 3 watt there.
Best Regards,
Bill
Hi Brett,
More is always OK electrically. Physical space considerations are then the limiting factor. A 20 watt would work well electrically, but woudn't fit in the case.
Best Regards,
Bill
:: Bill, they both have to be 3watts.
::
::
:::O. K., I’m back to being a little confused. If I took a 51 Ohm 2 Watt and a 9 Ohm 1 Watt in series, I would have the 60 Ohm, but would I have the 3 Watts I need?
:::
:::One more thing. Make sure the end of the new diode that has the line connected to the radio circuitry. The other end, the anode, connects toward the mains. The resistor(s) can go on either end.
:::
:::All the Best,
:::
:::Bill Grimm
:Can they be more? Like say two 30 Ohm 5 watt?
Bill, 5 watt would be great.