Fluorescent lamps, including CFLs, do not work (or do not work well) with triac-controlled fixtures - such as typically found in motion sensors, touch-activated switches, dusk-to-dawn switches, X10 controllers, etc. This seems to be a problem, possibly not considered by Congress?
Doug
I don't fear it happening in any near future, but what about future bans of incandescent dial lamps or even new vacuum tubes? Old radios can live off the large supply of NOS tubes, but guitar players would have a problem with their tube-type amps.
Is it not conceivable that vacuum tubes
All: I hadn't thought about triacs,but my wife cannot use flourescent lights of any kind, she has some sort of eye condition that will give her a headache from hell if she tries to work under flourescent lighting.
Lewis
Fluorescents with magnetic ballasts will flicker at 120Hz. (Older fixtures and most modern, cheapo fixtures from Home Depot, etc., have magnetic ballasts.)
Electronic ballasts, which CFLs have, run at much higher frequency. So, I would think that electronic ballasts would present less of a flicker problem?
Today, although marijuana is illegal, some states (California) allow it for medicinal purposes, right? So maybe with a doctor's orders, you will be allowed to purchase an incandescent lamp? Of course, when it burns out, you would have to return the dud to get the prescription refilled.
Doug
By the way, back on the flicker issue. White LEDs, which are often touted as a higher efficiency replacement for fluorescents, also flicker unless they are supplied with DC.
It's easy to understand why God created humans with a finite lifetime. After a while, we grow weary of all this crap.
Doug
::I just saw a TV news Dr.Gupta report that the CFLs are causing medical problems. People that suffer from light or strobe sensitive migraine headaches can't use these bulbs. Also people who have epilepsy have been reporting seizures aggravated by these lamps.
:
:All: I hadn't thought about triacs,but my wife cannot use flourescent lights of any kind, she has some sort of eye condition that will give her a headache from hell if she tries to work under flourescent lighting.
:Lewis
I really don't like fluorescent lights. They were the light of the future in 1934, and I think that they always will be because they really aren't that good right now. Furthermore, if you don't want things to fade, you have to use incandescent lights. The UV from fluorescents fades things terribly.
I'm going to stock up on light bulbs. I know of a good source for 150 watt 10,000 hour traffic light bulbs. They last for a long time, though they're a bit more yellow than ordinary bulbs.
T.
:Ridiculous. Perhaps we should focus more on solar and wind energy???? If we'd just do that, we could use whatever we wanted.
:
:I really don't like fluorescent lights. They were the light of the future in 1934, and I think that they always will be because they really aren't that good right now. Furthermore, if you don't want things to fade, you have to use incandescent lights. The UV from fluorescents fades things terribly.
:
:I'm going to stock up on light bulbs. I know of a good source for 150 watt 10,000 hour traffic light bulbs. They last for a long time, though they're a bit more yellow than ordinary bulbs.
:
:T.
Everytime I see one of these Chicken Little's "The sky is falling" crises, I see in my mind Robert Preston singing "Ya Got Trouble" from "The Music Man", trying to convince the townsfolks that the only way the children of the town can be saved from the dreaded Pool Table is to buy band instruments and uniforms from him.
And on it goes.
Lewis
:Thomas, you better also stock up on a dozen or so pounds of 60-40 resin-core solder. Supposedly, problems have been identified with the lead-free solder now mandated in Europe. The joints grow microscopic whiskers that cause shorts, etc.
:Doug
:
::Ridiculous. Perhaps we should focus more on solar and wind energy???? If we'd just do that, we could use whatever we wanted.
::
::I really don't like fluorescent lights. They were the light of the future in 1934, and I think that they always will be because they really aren't that good right now. Furthermore, if you don't want things to fade, you have to use incandescent lights. The UV from fluorescents fades things terribly.
::
::I'm going to stock up on light bulbs. I know of a good source for 150 watt 10,000 hour traffic light bulbs. They last for a long time, though they're a bit more yellow than ordinary bulbs.
::
::T.
marv
:Rediculous. Perhaps we should focus more on solar and wind energy???? If we'd just do that, we could use whatever we wanted.
:
:I really don't like fluorescent lights. They were the light of the future in 1934, and I think that they always will be because they really aren't that good right now. Furthermore, if you don't want things to fade, you have to use incandescent lights. The UV from fluorescents fades things terribly.
:
:I'm going to stock up on light bulbs. I know of a good source for 150 watt 10,000 hour traffic light bulbs. They last for a long time, though they're a bit more yellow than ordinary bulbs.
:
:T.
Honestly, though, I have 100 watt incandescent bulbs in almost every fixture in my appartment, and my electric bill is rarely over $40, except in the summer, when I run the 3 air conditioners (highest bill I've had was $70, and I live on the 3rd floor, too). My electric company tells me I have an unusually low electric bill, and that I shouldn't think about special plans to save money. Still I'd like to save money. The split price plan wouldn't work for me, though.
I guess it just pays to be sensible and not leave on lights in rooms not in use, and to adjust dimmers appropriately when full light isn't needed. Of course my heat isn't on the bill since it's included in the rent, and the washer and dryer are $1 per load--not on the bill, either. My parents have much larger electric bills, with a washer and dryer (used to be electric), furnace fan, and a pool pump, and my mom has plant lights that run all day long (fluorescents at 40 watts per tube). I think that the pool pump and the plant lights are their biggest problem. I doubt that my bills would be too much higher with a furnace fan and a clothes washer/dryer.
I'm happily burning my C-7 Christmas lights right now. They have a wonderful mellow glow. My bill this month might be around $45 or $50, but it's worth it for Christmas. I never leave the lights on over-night, and I don't usually light the tree for more than a few hours at a time (kind of dangerous).
.....In the end I'd settle for LED light bulbs. They're quite nice.....as long as I could get them with a glow identical (perhaps a bit whiter) to an incandescent bulb.... ....And I still want the choice of being able to purchase incandescent bulbs. There are certain places where nothing else will do.
T.
Dave
:I just saw a TV news Dr.Gupta report that the CFLs are causing medical problems. People that suffer from light or strobe sensitive migraine headaches can't use these bulbs. Also people who have epilepsy have been reporting seizures aggravated by these lamps.
T.
:You've probably been following the phased-in U.S. sales ban of new incandescent lamps, starting with 100W.
:
:Fluorescent lamps, including CFLs, do not work (or do not work well) with triac-controlled fixtures - such as typically found in motion sensors, touch-activated switches, dusk-to-dawn switches, X10 controllers, etc. This seems to be a problem, possibly not considered by Congress?
:Doug
:
:I don't fear it happening in any near future, but what about future bans of incandescent dial lamps or even new vacuum tubes? Old radios can live off the large supply of NOS tubes, but guitar players would have a problem with their tube-type amps.
:
:Is it not conceivable that vacuum tubes
:Can you send me the URL on this ban. I was not aware of any incandesent lamp ban in the USA. I know in some european countries and Australia they plan to ban them in the future. While I support the effort to reduce global warming and in many cases we should switch to CFLs for most homes and business use, I think there needs to be exceptions such as indicators, theatrical, vaccum tube heaters, specialized equipment, etc.
:
http://www.voltimum.co.uk/cm.jsp?cat=2&subcat=&action=view&viewmode=details&brand=&universe=infopro.profnews.voltimum&cmid=6898&pagenumber=1
:Can you send me the URL on this ban. I was not aware of any incandesent lamp ban in the USA. I know in some european countries and Australia they plan to ban them in the future. While I support the effort to reduce global warming and in many cases we should switch to CFLs for most homes and business use, I think there needs to be exceptions such as indicators, theatrical, vaccum tube heaters, specialized equipment, etc.
:
:
::You've probably been following the phased-in U.S. sales ban of new incandescent lamps, starting with 100W.
::
::Fluorescent lamps, including CFLs, do not work (or do not work well) with triac-controlled fixtures - such as typically found in motion sensors, touch-activated switches, dusk-to-dawn switches, X10 controllers, etc. This seems to be a problem, possibly not considered by Congress?
::Doug
::
::I don't fear it happening in any near future, but what about future bans of incandescent dial lamps or even new vacuum tubes? Old radios can live off the large supply of NOS tubes, but guitar players would have a problem with their tube-type amps.
::
::Is it not conceivable that vacuum tubes
http://www.digg.com/environment/Congress_Likely_to_Pass_Incandescent_Bulb_Ban
It was already passed and signed by GWB in late December, 2007. It was part of the big energy bill.
Mike
Paul
::It is happening in the U.S.A. If you don't want it to happen, then you should write your congress person, and start a petition going. A lot of people on comment forums seem to dislike the new CFLs, too. I am not a fan of them at all. Another thing I'd like to know is how much more energy it takes to produce a CFL vs. an incandescent. Incandescents are very simple in construction. In the end, it's all about the carbon trail, regardless of where it comes from.
::
::http://www.digg.com/environment/Congress_Likely_to_Pass_Incandescent_Bulb_Ban
:
:It was already passed and signed by GWB in late December, 2007. It was part of the big energy bill.
:
:Mike
:You've probably been following the phased-in U.S. sales ban of new incandescent lamps, starting with 100W.
:
:Fluorescent lamps, including CFLs, do not work (or do not work well) with triac-controlled fixtures - such as typically found in motion sensors, touch-activated switches, dusk-to-dawn switches, X10 controllers, etc. This seems to be a problem, possibly not considered by Congress?
:Doug
:
:I don't fear it happening in any near future, but what about future bans of incandescent dial lamps or even new vacuum tubes? Old radios can live off the large supply of NOS tubes, but guitar players would have a problem with their tube-type amps.
:
:Is it not conceivable that vacuum tubes
Doug: Saw your posting relative to incandescent lamps and simply could not resist jumping in. I would like to review a few facts:
1. Incandescent lamps are only 5% efficient which produces a great deal of heat and wastes power.
2. We increase our electric power demand 3% annually which means it doubles every 26 years. This simply means that we must generate more power . . .60% of our present power is produced from coal. Do we want more coal plants, nuclear, squirrel cages? If you really feel like a true environmentalist how many of you actually have solar hot water, trombe walls, or a wind generator?
3. CFL, HID, and other forms of gas discharge lamps are tremendously more efficient than the old incandescent lamp which also saves energy in that my air conditioner does not have to pump out their heat. Don't neglect the new LED light fixtures that are showing up in new homes.
Now for the brain teaser. Which produces more light: two 50 watt incandescents or one 100 watt incandescent?
Assume 120 volt lamps. Have a nice day guys.
marv
:
:
::You've probably been following the phased-in U.S. sales ban of new incandescent lamps, starting with 100W.
::
::Fluorescent lamps, including CFLs, do not work (or do not work well) with triac-controlled fixtures - such as typically found in motion sensors, touch-activated switches, dusk-to-dawn switches, X10 controllers, etc. This seems to be a problem, possibly not considered by Congress?
::Doug
::
::I don't fear it happening in any near future, but what about future bans of incandescent dial lamps or even new vacuum tubes? Old radios can live off the large supply of NOS tubes, but guitar players would have a problem with their tube-type amps.
::
::Is it not conceivable that vacuum tubes
:
:Doug: Saw your posting relative to incandescent lamps and simply could not resist jumping in. I would like to review a few facts:
:1. Incandescent lamps are only 5% efficient which produces a great deal of heat and wastes power.
:2. We increase our electric power demand 3% annually which means it doubles every 26 years. This simply means that we must generate more power . . .60% of our present power is produced from coal. Do we want more coal plants, nuclear, squirrel cages? If you really feel like a true environmentalist how many of you actually have solar hot water, trombe walls, or a wind generator?
:3. CFL, HID, and other forms of gas discharge lamps are tremendously more efficient than the old incandescent lamp which also saves energy in that my air conditioner does not have to pump out their heat. Don't neglect the new LED light fixtures that are showing up in new homes.
:Now for the brain teaser. Which produces more light: two 50 watt incandescents or one 100 watt incandescent?
:Assume 120 volt lamps. Have a nice day guys.
In the incandescent brain teaser I asked which lamps produced the most lumens of light (put out the most light) and time was not a factor since brightness or lumens is not time based. The answer is that the 100 watt lamp emits the most light by far than the two 50 watt lamps combined. This is due to lamp efficacy (not efficiency) and can be clearly seen if you read the carton lamps come packed in. The 100 watt lamp is more incandescent!! Nice to discuss this lamp thing with you. Dr. T
::
::
:::You've probably been following the phased-in U.S. sales ban of new incandescent lamps, starting with 100W.
:::
:::Fluorescent lamps, including CFLs, do not work (or do not work well) with triac-controlled fixtures - such as typically found in motion sensors, touch-activated switches, dusk-to-dawn switches, X10 controllers, etc. This seems to be a problem, possibly not considered by Congress?
:::Doug
:::
:::I don't fear it happening in any near future, but what about future bans of incandescent dial lamps or even new vacuum tubes? Old radios can live off the large supply of NOS tubes, but guitar players would have a problem with their tube-type amps.
:::
:::Is it not conceivable that vacuum tubes
::
::Doug: Saw your posting relative to incandescent lamps and simply could not resist jumping in. I would like to review a few facts:
::1. Incandescent lamps are only 5% efficient which produces a great deal of heat and wastes power.
::2. We increase our electric power demand 3% annually which means it doubles every 26 years. This simply means that we must generate more power . . .60% of our present power is produced from coal. Do we want more coal plants, nuclear, squirrel cages? If you really feel like a true environmentalist how many of you actually have solar hot water, trombe walls, or a wind generator?
::3. CFL, HID, and other forms of gas discharge lamps are tremendously more efficient than the old incandescent lamp which also saves energy in that my air conditioner does not have to pump out their heat. Don't neglect the new LED light fixtures that are showing up in new homes.
::Now for the brain teaser. Which produces more light: two 50 watt incandescents or one 100 watt incandescent?
::Assume 120 volt lamps. Have a nice day guys.
marv
::Dr.T,
::The CFL's and HID's are inherently more expensive to mfr vs the old incandescent bulb, (is there a cost/energy breakdown inherent to mfg), cost 3-4 times more at the grocery store, are hazzardous to dispose (read another EPA like disposal bureaucracy) Can you also quote figures cradle to grave for the lifespan of this new modern marvel (read Edsel). I use them throughout my home, but for every penny I save, the utility bill goes up a nickel. We have a 250 year supply of coal at todays consumption rate, but guess we'll save it until the natural gas is depleted, then go back to coal for all our energy needs.
::
::marv
::
:Marv: Your posting caused me to do some research at the World Bank and the EIA Government website. The Lumen per dollar per hour of bulb life of flourescents and HID lamps was my key question. And the answer seems to be that the gas discharge lamps come out on top with this criteria. High pressure sodium lamps are the champ but their light spectrum is best suited for street lights, parking lots, etc. I was unable to get any reliable figures on true manufacturing costs so I was unable to make that comparison. It seems that residential lighting accounts for only 9% of total KWH use nationally with HVAC and water heating using quite a bit more energy with the potential for much greater savings than lighting. According to the EIA, incandescents have just about become extinct in commercial and industrial applications. Can you imagine a large office or school building with incandescents?
:
: In the incandescent brain teaser I asked which lamps produced the most lumens of light (put out the most light) and time was not a factor since brightness or lumens is not time based. The answer is that the 100 watt lamp emits the most light by far than the two 50 watt lamps combined. This is due to lamp efficacy (not efficiency) and can be clearly seen if you read the carton lamps come packed in. The 100 watt lamp is more incandescent!! Nice to discuss this lamp thing with you. Dr. T
:::
:::
::::You've probably been following the phased-in U.S. sales ban of new incandescent lamps, starting with 100W.
::::
::::Fluorescent lamps, including CFLs, do not work (or do not work well) with triac-controlled fixtures - such as typically found in motion sensors, touch-activated switches, dusk-to-dawn switches, X10 controllers, etc. This seems to be a problem, possibly not considered by Congress?
::::Doug
::::
::::I don't fear it happening in any near future, but what about future bans of incandescent dial lamps or even new vacuum tubes? Old radios can live off the large supply of NOS tubes, but guitar players would have a problem with their tube-type amps.
::::
::::Is it not conceivable that vacuum tubes
:::
:::Doug: Saw your posting relative to incandescent lamps and simply could not resist jumping in. I would like to review a few facts:
:::1. Incandescent lamps are only 5% efficient which produces a great deal of heat and wastes power.
:::2. We increase our electric power demand 3% annually which means it doubles every 26 years. This simply means that we must generate more power . . .60% of our present power is produced from coal. Do we want more coal plants, nuclear, squirrel cages? If you really feel like a true environmentalist how many of you actually have solar hot water, trombe walls, or a wind generator?
:::3. CFL, HID, and other forms of gas discharge lamps are tremendously more efficient than the old incandescent lamp which also saves energy in that my air conditioner does not have to pump out their heat. Don't neglect the new LED light fixtures that are showing up in new homes.
:::Now for the brain teaser. Which produces more light: two 50 watt incandescents or one 100 watt incandescent?
:::Assume 120 volt lamps. Have a nice day guys.
How did I do?
Best Regards,
Bill Grimm
Regarding incandescents, though, as I've said before, I keep my bill low by turning them off unless I need them. I have 100 watt bulbs in almost every fixture in my apartment, and my bill rarely goes over $40. I certainly don't turn on lights on a hot summer day, and at night, as always, I only use what light I need. No problems with the air conditioner. Also, my fuse box will only put out 30 amps to the two lighting circuits, which are also used for the air conditioners (the 3rd 15 amp circuit is for the fridge only, and the 4th is for the bathroom outlet (don't ask)). Because of this I never have to worry about turning on too many lights. If I turn on too many, and the air conditioners are running, I blow a fuse. I kind of scratch my head at all of the people who ripped out the 'obsolete' 60 ampere services so that they could have 100 and 200 ampere services. Now they complain about their bills being too high and global warming and all. You don't need all of that electricity at one time. If you need all of it, either you're running a factory, or you're lazy. Turn things off! Save energy!
Long live the incandescent bulb. Fluorescents aren't anything new, and they rely on phenomenons first discovered by Edison with his incandescent. I'm all about LEDs, though, if they can ever produce the inviting light that an incandescent produces. Certainly noone wants gigantic CFLs in their electroliers, though. That's rediculous! How clumsy and ugly! Conserve energy--turn off lights.
T.
The two 50 watt bulbs will put out more light since they will be putting out light when the 100 watt has gone dark. As an old guy I am now thinking in terms of longevity!
All the Best,
Bill Grimm
marv
:Hi Thomas,
: You comments are good ones. Nothing is more dated thatn our view of the future. When I was a kid a car came out that could not go faster than 85 mph, Studabaker, I think. It was criticized as being doomed to quick obsolescence since everyone thought the future was going to be 120 mph and 150 mph freeways.
: The same fate exists for those who ripped out 60 amp service for 120 amp service.
:
: The two 50 watt bulbs will put out more light since they will be putting out light when the 100 watt has gone dark. As an old guy I am now thinking in terms of longevity!
:
:All the Best,
:
:Bill Grimm
Can we build a closed box with mirrors inside and a lamp....
then when we switch off the lamp... why doesn't the light stay inside the box reflecting itself around in there for a long time or for ever? .. or at all?
If not...long ...how long?
If we put a light sensor in the box... would it detect light for a even a little bit longer time after the lamp is turned off in the mirrored box than in a black box?
Hi Peter,
If there is a light sensor in the box, it will let all the light leak out. If the light is in a mirrored box, the light will just bounce around until it gets tired.
I am glad there are no physicists around.
Off to battle the Silver mica disease.
All the Best,
Bill Grimm
Regarding light.....well, light isn't matter, but rather the vibration of matter. When the vibration has enough energy to cause electrons to fall out of orbit, light is given off. The only way to keep the matter producing light would be to keep the vibration going. If you wanted to 'save' light, you'd have to somehow keep other matter from absorbing the vibration.
T.
marv
:Studebaker Champions are the best. I got to drive one for a week about 5 years ago. It was great, though the engine needed serious work. I think that some piston rings were broken or something. There was a lot of blow-by, and I would only get about 14 mpg. I liked the automatic overdrive and the hill hold. Though the brakes were one of the first to automatically adjust, sadly they were not servo brakes, and so the car was very difficult to slow down, especially with the free-wheeling overdrive. I almost hit a few cars with that thing. When it was first loaned to me, the paint was tarnished. It looked kind of weird. After I got done polishing it, it looked like a really fun, kind of sporty car. I would definitely own another one if I had the space and money. Regarding the pistons, though, they probably failed because they were aluminum. Everyone criticizes Chevrolet for their cast iron pistons, but they did that because they were more durable and could be fitted to closer tolerances without damage from expansion. The last time I checked my cast iron pistons was at 100,000, and none of them had any wear what-so-ever. They're still pounding away well at 158,000....and the car will do 99 on flat land (certainly not up a hill or into the wind).
:
:Regarding light.....well, light isn't matter, but rather the vibration of matter. When the vibration has enough energy to cause electrons to fall out of orbit, light is given off. The only way to keep the matter producing light would be to keep the vibration going. If you wanted to 'save' light, you'd have to somehow keep other matter from absorbing the vibration.
:
:T.
and the 4th is for the bathroom outlet (don't ask)).
*******************************************************
How about its a GFCI type breaker????
Lewis
Because of this I never have to worry about turning on too many lights. If I turn on too many, and the air conditioners are running, I blow a fuse. I kind of scratch my head at all of the people who ripped out the 'obsolete' 60 ampere services so that they could have 100 and 200 ampere services. Now they complain about their bills being too high and global warming and all. You don't need all of that electricity at one time. If you need all of it, either you're running a factory, or you're lazy. Turn things off! Save energy!
:
:Long live the incandescent bulb. Fluorescents aren't anything new, and they rely on phenomenons first discovered by Edison with his incandescent. I'm all about LEDs, though, if they can ever produce the inviting light that an incandescent produces. Certainly noone wants gigantic CFLs in their electroliers, though. That's rediculous! How clumsy and ugly! Conserve energy--turn off lights.
:
:T.
T.
Sorry I asked. (;>)
L
The NEC doesn't mandate conforming to the latest code unless there are significant renovations. Not sure if moving the outlet would constitute a major renovation, but electricians often just prefer to follow the code. It makes their lives a little simpler, I guess.
Doug
:Well, the bathroom has a GFCI, but the outlet is also on its own fuse, which is strange. Actually, originally the 4th fuse in my fuse box was unused, and the outlet was on the 2nd lighting circuit (there are 2 total), along with the rest of the bathroom, but I complained about having an outlet in the shower (originally, in 1929, there was no shower), so they relocated it, and gave it its own circuit (supposedly a modern code...a dumb one at that).
:
:T.
:Thomas - yes, the current National Electrical Code doesn't allow bathroom outlets to be on the same ckt as lighting. I'm not sure exactly why. I do know that a hair dryer will cause lights to dim if they are on the same ckt, but that wouldn't seem to be a safety issue?
:
:The NEC doesn't mandate conforming to the latest code unless there are significant renovations. Not sure if moving the outlet would constitute a major renovation, but electricians often just prefer to follow the code. It makes their lives a little simpler, I guess.
:Doug
:
::Well, the bathroom has a GFCI, but the outlet is also on its own fuse, which is strange. Actually, originally the 4th fuse in my fuse box was unused, and the outlet was on the 2nd lighting circuit (there are 2 total), along with the rest of the bathroom, but I complained about having an outlet in the shower (originally, in 1929, there was no shower), so they relocated it, and gave it its own circuit (supposedly a modern code...a dumb one at that).
::
::T.
....But if you have 50 different electrical devices running at all times, like that trusty computer that noone seems to know how to shut off, I guess you'll need another circuit. I can't believe how many places (especially public schools and universities) that leave their computers running at all times.
T.
All:
I live in a ranch house with a full basement, but the wiring is all in the attic, which is impossible to access, except for a small area. The idiot that wired it put both bathrooms and two bedrooms on the same 15 Am fuse. My wife uses the iron in one bedroom, and the hair dryer in the master bathroom, and being #14 wire, the lights dim in half the house. If I could get up in the attic, I would re-wire the whole house. I rewired as much as I could with 20Amp circuit breakers, replacing the fuse box, and wired the full basement properly. I ran a spare #12 NM cable to the basement while I had the house torn apart, I think I will install a GFCI breaker and run two dedicated 20 Amp outlets for the iron and hair dryer. The lights dimming mean that wire is getting hot somewhere, doesn't it??
:All:
:
:I live in a ranch house with a full basement, but the wiring is all in the attic, which is impossible to access, except for a small area. The idiot that wired it put both bathrooms and two bedrooms on the same 15 Am fuse. My wife uses the iron in one bedroom, and the hair dryer in the master bathroom, and being #14 wire, the lights dim in half the house. If I could get up in the attic, I would re-wire the whole house. I rewired as much as I could with 20Amp circuit breakers, replacing the fuse box, and wired the full basement properly. I ran a spare #12 NM cable to the basement while I had the house torn apart, I think I will install a GFCI breaker and run two dedicated 20 Amp outlets for the iron and hair dryer. The lights dimming mean that wire is getting hot somewhere, doesn't it??
Most outlets are designed to handle 15 amperes. If they get hot, then they are old and loose, or the plug is corroded, or there's a bad connection inside of the plug. A 1000 watt toaster such as my 1935 Toastmaster 1B5 (or my 1938 1B8) draws about 8.3 amperes. Most modern toasters draw less (and toast more slowly). A typicall hair dryer of modern design draws 1250 watts on high. That's 10.4 amperes (just fine for a lighting circuit). A typical 1000 watt iron draws the same 8.3 amperes that the 1000 watt toaster draws. As far as power consumption is concerned, one must remember that an iron cycles on and off, so it isn't a continuous 1000 watts. However, as far as circuit loading is concerned, 1000 watts is 1000 watts, regardless of how long it runs.
As I've said before, I have two 15 ampere lighting circuits in my appartment, a fridge circuit (one outlet), a range circuit, and some dumb circuit for the bathroom outlet. I rarely replace fuses (usually one or two in the summer). If I want to run the microwave, I don't run the toaster, and vice versa. If I want to use the iron, I don't use the toaster or the microwave or the hair dryer. If I have the air conditioning on (I run up to 3 air conditioners on the two 15 ampere lighting circuits) and want to use either of the three previously mentioned appliances, I temporarily turn off one or more of the air conditioners. There's no need to run all of those appliances at the same time. I have a LOT of electrical appliances, mostly from the 40s and prior, and I'm proud of all of them. I enjoy using all of them. Still, I don't turn them all on at the same time, and I keep my electric bill low. If I was running a restaurant, that'd be a different story. Certainly I'd want to run the toaster, microwave, Mixmaster, and possibly the blender and waffle iron all at the same time. Who knows....I might even run the Electrolux.
Speaking of efficiency and workshops, my dad owns some 1940s Craftsman motorized tools, like a table saw, a jointer, and some other device. The saw uses a 1 HP repulsion-induction motor. At first glance it looks like a universal type motor, with brushes and windings on the rotor. However, the rotor is only energized by induction. There is a centrifugal array of switches on the commutator that shorts every other contact once the motor is at speed, which converts it to a squirrel cage type set-up. Otherwise the motor starts with two carbon brushes mounted 180 degrees apart, and shorted together by a wire. It's an amazing motor because it only takes 11.6 amperes to run, and it has a lot of torque. It'll saw just about anything (wood) on a regular lighting circuit. It rarely blows a fuse. The motor went bad about 10 years ago, and my dad was considering replacing it. Most of the modern motors available at the same HP rating require a bit more power to operate. While my dad has his shop fitted with 20 ampere circuits in many places, it'd be nice to keep the saw versatile and efficient. After a lot of talk I convinced him to repair the original motor. For someone else to do it would cost around $500 (though modern motors of similar quality are around the same price). I decided to do it myself. The shorts were in the rotor, so I rewound the rotor with new double enamel high temp (300 degree C) wire and all of the other requirements (fish paper, string, varnish, friction tape, etc.). It took a few months (tiring process), but now the motor runs like new. It's amazing. It starts right up and cuts through just about anything. I like to run it on a 15 ampere circuit just to show what it can do. It barely dims the lights. Now why don't they produce such an efficient motor anymore?????? .....Well, because it's more expensive....and people would rather have a cheaper motor that has to run at rediculous rpms. in order to achieve the same results.
T.
My point was that wiht 14 ga. wire, I am paying to heat the attic abit, when with 20 ga wire I will pay only to heat the hair dryer or the iron (you're right, she's good, but she can't iron clothes in one room and dry hair in another).
Lewis
:My point was that wiht 14 ga. wire, I am paying to heat the attic abit, when with 20 ga wire I will pay only to heat the hair dryer or the iron (you're right, she's good, but she can't iron clothes in one room and dry hair in another).
:Lewis
:My point was that wiht 14 ga. wire, I am paying to heat the attic abit, when with 20 ga wire I will pay only to heat the hair dryer or the iron (you're right, she's good, but she can't iron clothes in one room and dry hair in another).
:Lewis
Anyway.....................................
T.