I have download the schematic and there is no info on the "C" battery. What is the voltage? Also there are no wire inside the radio to connect this battery?
Do you know where I can get a close picture of the drawing in the back of the radio.

Thank you

Andre

Use -4 1/2 volts for the C battery. It can be 3 small flashlight cells. Some radios didn't use the C battery. In that case C- is tied to A-.

http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel/892/M0039892.pdf

Trace battery wiring with an ohm meter if you aren't sure where they go.

Norm

:I have download the schematic and there is no info on the "C" battery. What is the voltage? Also there are no wire inside the radio to connect this battery?
:Do you know where I can get a close picture of the drawing in the back of the radio.
:
:Thank you

:Andre
:
: Use -4 1/2 volts for the C battery. It can be 3 small flashlight cells. Some radios didn't use the C battery. In that case C- is tied to A-.

Start off with C- tied to A-, and add one 1.5 Volt cell at a time until there is no distortion in the audio. It might be that the radio will work without a "C" battery, but there will probably be distortion.
Lewis

A few years ago, I got a dozen or so 3.6-V AA lithium batteries, with pigtails, from one of the surplus electronics places on the internet. Since the C battery supplies only bias voltage, no current, it will last at least for it's shelflife, which is a couple of decades for lithium cells. With their pigtails, they are perfect for most C-cell applications. 3.6V seems to be fine for most '01A radios.
Doug

::Andre
::
:: Use -4 1/2 volts for the C battery. It can be 3 small flashlight cells. Some radios didn't use the C battery. In that case C- is tied to A-.
:
:
:Start off with C- tied to A-, and add one 1.5 Volt cell at a time until there is no distortion in the audio. It might be that the radio will work without a "C" battery, but there will probably be distortion.
:Lewis

Doug,
They're great for white LEDs too. Typically a forward voltage of 3.6vdc sets the current at about 20ma, which is a norm for most white LEDs. I keep a couple 3.6v nicad/nimh packs on my bench, along with a couple white LEDs on long flexible leads, for those really tight places incompatible with a regular flashlight.

marv

:A few years ago, I got a dozen or so 3.6-V AA lithium batteries, with pigtails, from one of the surplus electronics places on the internet. Since the C battery supplies only bias voltage, no current, it will last at least for it's shelflife, which is a couple of decades for lithium cells. With their pigtails, they are perfect for most C-cell applications. 3.6V seems to be fine for most '01A radios.
:Doug
:
:::Andre
:::
::: Use -4 1/2 volts for the C battery. It can be 3 small flashlight cells. Some radios didn't use the C battery. In that case C- is tied to A-.
::
::
::Start off with C- tied to A-, and add one 1.5 Volt cell at a time until there is no distortion in the audio. It might be that the radio will work without a "C" battery, but there will probably be distortion.
::Lewis

Marv, so you just strap the 3.6-V battery directly across the white LED? Without a ballast resistor? What's the forward voltage drop for a white LED?

By the way, my previous source for those lithium batteries was All Electronics. But the ones they list now, @ $1.50 each, are dated 1996, so they are getting a little long in the tooth: http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/LBAT-49/160/3.6V_LITHIUM_BATTERY,_AA_SIZE_W_SOLDER_TABS_.html
Doug

:Doug,
:They're great for white LEDs too. Typically a forward voltage of 3.6vdc sets the current at about 20ma, which is a norm for most white LEDs. I keep a couple 3.6v nicad/nimh packs on my bench, along with a couple white LEDs on long flexible leads, for those really tight places incompatible with a regular flashlight.
:
:marv

Doug,
Typical forward drop in all my experiments has been 3.4-3.6v. I've had good success with no dropping resistor, but of course all white LEDs are not the same. Typical forward current of my specimens were spec'd for 20 ma @3.6v. Best to check the specs first, and set the current accordingly. I had a couple set up for outside lights w/solar charger for 1 1/2 yrs before they went south getting dim requiring 5 v for normal brightness. They were socketed, so a swap was easy. I even have 2 extra sockets, and this time of year I insert a red and green on either side of the white. I drive them with a transistor and CDS light sensor. I just took a picture (after dark), and if interested I'll send a .jpg by email.

marv

:Marv, so you just strap the 3.6-V battery directly across the white LED? Without a ballast resistor? What's the forward voltage drop for a white LED?
:
:By the way, my previous source for those lithium batteries was All Electronics. But the ones they list now, @ $1.50 each, are dated 1996, so they are getting a little long in the tooth: http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/LBAT-49/160/3.6V_LITHIUM_BATTERY,_AA_SIZE_W_SOLDER_TABS_.html
:Doug
:
::Doug,
::They're great for white LEDs too. Typically a forward voltage of 3.6vdc sets the current at about 20ma, which is a norm for most white LEDs. I keep a couple 3.6v nicad/nimh packs on my bench, along with a couple white LEDs on long flexible leads, for those really tight places incompatible with a regular flashlight.
::
::marv
:

:Marv, so you just strap the 3.6-V battery directly across the white LED? Without a ballast resistor? What's the forward voltage drop for a white LED?
:
:By the way, my previous source for those lithium batteries was All Electronics. But the ones they list now, @ $1.50 each, are dated 1996, so they are getting a little long in the tooth: http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/LBAT-49/160/3.6V_LITHIUM_BATTERY,_AA_SIZE_W_SOLDER_TABS_.html
:Doug
:
::Doug,
::They're great for white LEDs too. Typically a forward voltage of 3.6vdc sets the current at about 20ma, which is a norm for most white LEDs. I keep a couple 3.6v nicad/nimh packs on my bench, along with a couple white LEDs on long flexible leads, for those really tight places incompatible with a regular flashlight.
::
::marv
:

Doug,
Forgot to mention that the circuit is set up to provide 60 ma @3.6v for 3 white LEDs, so I use an 1/8 W series dropping resistor soldered to one leg of the red and green in order tolerate the 3.6v drive.

marv

::Marv, so you just strap the 3.6-V battery directly across the white LED? Without a ballast resistor? What's the forward voltage drop for a white LED?
::
::By the way, my previous source for those lithium batteries was All Electronics. But the ones they list now, @ $1.50 each, are dated 1996, so they are getting a little long in the tooth: http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/LBAT-49/160/3.6V_LITHIUM_BATTERY,_AA_SIZE_W_SOLDER_TABS_.html
::Doug
::
:::Doug,
:::They're great for white LEDs too. Typically a forward voltage of 3.6vdc sets the current at about 20ma, which is a norm for most white LEDs. I keep a couple 3.6v nicad/nimh packs on my bench, along with a couple white LEDs on long flexible leads, for those really tight places incompatible with a regular flashlight.
:::
:::marv
::

Marv, I have two 120-V pole lamps in the front lawn. The underground cable feeding them has gone bad. I want to modify the existing fixtures for solar-powered LEDs. Please e-mail me with your thoughts and suggestions. Thanks.
Doug

Marv, I have two 120-V pole lamps in the front lawn. The underground cable feeding them has gone bad. I want to modify the existing fixtures for solar-powered LEDs. Please e-mail me with your thoughts and suggestions. Thanks.
Doug