I've found that several bulbs are not lit, and I assume the first thing to do would be to replace them? Or is there perhaps a reason they have burned out that would need to be addressed? HELP!
My radio looks similar to this one:
http://www.antiqueradios.com/gallery/v/Silvertone/Sears_Silvertone_R101_Chassis_101_614_Front.jpg.html
The rear is similar to this one:
http://tomsradiorepair.bizland.com/July%2015%20010.jpg
I've used the great resources here to print out a book of tube substitutions, based on the schematic inside the case. But I have no idea where to find/buy tubes? HELP!
:
:I've found that several bulbs are not lit, and I assume the first thing to do would be to replace them? Or is there perhaps a reason they have burned out that would need to be addressed? HELP!
:
:My radio looks similar to this one:
:http://www.antiqueradios.com/gallery/v/Silvertone/Sears_Silvertone_R101_Chassis_101_614_Front.jpg.html
:
:The rear is similar to this one:
:http://tomsradiorepair.bizland.com/July%2015%20010.jpg
:
:I've used the great resources here to print out a book of tube substitutions, based on the schematic inside the case. But I have no idea where to find/buy tubes? HELP!
Brant,
Chances are that the tubes are good,it is much more common that the electrolytic capacitors are bad. Start researching vintage radio repair, ask lots of questions, especially here-this is how I am still learning. Tubes are available from many places but shop around,they tend to vary in price widely.Your best bet is to replace all the electrolytic and other capacitors and go from there.If you are going to do this one go ahead and find and older analog multimeter like a Simpson,try ebay.I use cheap modern ones for other testing-voltages and resistance. You cant use a modern digital meter to check capacitors.Be sure to educate yourself on safety-these radios can be lethal in their voltages. Have fun, be careful and ask ask ask.
Dave.
A schematic for the 101.614 is at:
http://www.nostalgiaair.org/Resources/909/M0017909.htm
And a schematic for the later version is at:
http://www.nostalgiaair.org/Resources/910/M0017910.htm
Radiodoc
**********
::HI all. I'm a newb, so let me appologize right off if I say anything stupid. I've got an old 1940's Silvertone radio that doesn't work, and I wonder where to start.
::
::I've found that several bulbs are not lit, and I assume the first thing to do would be to replace them? Or is there perhaps a reason they have burned out that would need to be addressed? HELP!
::
::My radio looks similar to this one:
::http://www.antiqueradios.com/gallery/v/Silvertone/Sears_Silvertone_R101_Chassis_101_614_Front.jpg.html
::
::The rear is similar to this one:
::http://tomsradiorepair.bizland.com/July%2015%20010.jpg
::
::I've used the great resources here to print out a book of tube substitutions, based on the schematic inside the case. But I have no idea where to find/buy tubes? HELP!
:
:Brant,
:Chances are that the tubes are good,it is much more common that the electrolytic capacitors are bad. Start researching vintage radio repair, ask lots of questions, especially here-this is how I am still learning. Tubes are available from many places but shop around,they tend to vary in price widely.Your best bet is to replace all the electrolytic and other capacitors and go from there.If you are going to do this one go ahead and find and older analog multimeter like a Simpson,try ebay.I use cheap modern ones for other testing-voltages and resistance. You cant use a modern digital meter to check capacitors.Be sure to educate yourself on safety-these radios can be lethal in their voltages. Have fun, be careful and ask ask ask.
:Dave.
Well I must say that the units cabinet is not exactly a Stickler classic design , but the electronics on that chassis seems to have everything needed and even has a
tuning eye to boot. If you would, take the two references that Le Radio Docteur supplied, and then compare against the tube complement of your
chassis and see which one matches up with your set. Then give some feed back as to what instrumentation that you have, and that has to at least be some
AC-DC-Ohms metering capability.
As for some tubes not “seeming” to be lighting up…that can be deceptive…. as in the different techniques and the manner of construction by different
manufacturers, some tubes just inherently exhibit a VERY POOR viewing capability of the small centrally located filament and cathode elements.
Best that you leave the set on for a while and grasp each tube envelope and feel for the temperature rise. A stone cold one will be readily apparent, as compared to its warmer neighbors..
73's de Edd
:Brant,
:
:A schematic for the 101.614 is at:
:
:http://www.nostalgiaair.org/Resources/909/M0017909.htm
:
:And a schematic for the later version is at:
:
:http://www.nostalgiaair.org/Resources/910/M0017910.htm
:
:Radiodoc
:**********
:
:
:::HI all. I'm a newb, so let me appologize right off if I say anything stupid. I've got an old 1940's Silvertone radio that doesn't work, and I wonder where to start.
:::
:::I've found that several bulbs are not lit, and I assume the first thing to do would be to replace them? Or is there perhaps a reason they have burned out that would need to be addressed? HELP!
:::
:::My radio looks similar to this one:
:::http://www.antiqueradios.com/gallery/v/Silvertone/Sears_Silvertone_R101_Chassis_101_614_Front.jpg.html
:::
:::The rear is similar to this one:
:::http://tomsradiorepair.bizland.com/July%2015%20010.jpg
:::
:::I've used the great resources here to print out a book of tube substitutions, based on the schematic inside the case. But I have no idea where to find/buy tubes? HELP!
::
::Brant,
::Chances are that the tubes are good,it is much more common that the electrolytic capacitors are bad. Start researching vintage radio repair, ask lots of questions, especially here-this is how I am still learning. Tubes are available from many places but shop around,they tend to vary in price widely.Your best bet is to replace all the electrolytic and other capacitors and go from there.If you are going to do this one go ahead and find and older analog multimeter like a Simpson,try ebay.I use cheap modern ones for other testing-voltages and resistance. You cant use a modern digital meter to check capacitors.Be sure to educate yourself on safety-these radios can be lethal in their voltages. Have fun, be careful and ask ask ask.
::Dave.
The tubes that appear unlit (and cold) are:
5Y3G
6Q7G
One tube had a bad connection and lit up when wiggled.
I'm not sure about the green eye in front (6U5), but it seems cold too.
2 of 3 dial lamps (type 44) are unlit. I'm checking out Ebay for tubes, using the substitutes listed here on the website as reference. I assume if it's not listed, don't use it?
In case the other suspect tubes could also be a poor connection, or something of that nature, you could also make an interim resistance analysis of the tubes filaments by measuring from :
5Y3 pins 2-8
6Q7 pins 2-7
6U5 pins 1-6
On the top 2 octal based tubes place the tube base pins facing you with the index guide at 12’0-clock position and count off the pins clockwise
On that vewy PRICEY 6U5 tuning eye tube , the LARGE pair of pins are pins 1 and 6.
Expect in the decades of ohms in accordance to your metering medium and scaling and can possibly vary a bit with slight warm up is that much
current is applied in the instruments ohms test function….if no ohms or up in the thousands…suspect open filament…if in the xxx k’s or
megohms expect a bad tube with your fingers being across the meter probes !
Thassit
73's de Edd
:Thanks guys! I did find and identify the model. It's this one: http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel/909/M0017909.pdf
:
:The tubes that appear unlit (and cold) are:
:
:5Y3G
:6Q7G
:
:One tube had a bad connection and lit up when wiggled.
:
:I'm not sure about the green eye in front (6U5), but it seems cold too.
:
:2 of 3 dial lamps (type 44) are unlit. I'm checking out Ebay for tubes, using the substitutes listed here on the website as reference. I assume if it's not listed, don't use it?
:
I've replaced several bulbs that were previously cold and unlit. The radio made NO noise at all until I replaced a 5Y3G full wave rectifier bulb. Once that bulb was replaced and the radio was turned on, it made noise alright... a LOT of noise!
It's got a *very* loud hum that volume control does nothing to change. The radio will pick up a local AM Station, but the hum almost drowns it out. I turned it off quickly before something burned out, it sounds so bad.
Any ideas of something simple to check? Keep in mind I know nothing about electronics, although my dad might.
:Here's the latest question:
:
:I've replaced several bulbs that were previously cold and unlit. The radio made NO noise at all until I replaced a 5Y3G full wave rectifier bulb. Once that bulb was replaced and the radio was turned on, it made noise alright... a LOT of noise!
:
:It's got a *very* loud hum that volume control does nothing to change. The radio will pick up a local AM Station, but the hum almost drowns it out. I turned it off quickly before something burned out, it sounds so bad.
:
:Any ideas of something simple to check? Keep in mind I know nothing about electronics, although my dad might.
I purchased an original 4 page "silvertone radio repair parts price list" that gives all the locations of all the condensers, resistors, etc.
After looking at your units chassis …that should be one real performer with probably just a little work on the unit.
That unit has all of the bells and whistles , with it being amongst the top of the line of their series at that time frame.
A full RF stage in the front end, along with a push pull Audio output stage, pushbutton stations and with a tuning eye thrown in to boot !
With your replacement of the 5Y3 and the restoration of the full B+ voltage to the set , you are now finding yourself
being confronted with what is called filter ….huMMMMM, and I believe that you said HEAVEEE on the MMMMM
Too many years of inactivity of the set along with the moistness of the electrolyte deteriorating within that canned electrolytic have resulted in its
effective loss of capacitance….resulting in that pulsating ripple being presented to the AF stages…thereby that hum coming from the speaker.
There are 3 stages of filtering, with the first one using 30 ufd which could be replaced with an easier to find 20 ufd plus a 10 ufd in parallel with it
Or a set of 20ufd’s in parallel or… if space permits…., (3) 10 ufds in parallel. All units would be voltage rated at 450 VDC. Then… the second filter, along
with the last one in line are 10ufd @ 450VDC units.
That will be typically requiring the individual disconnect of the wiring going to the 3 sections of the canned electrolytic …leaving it physically in place for cosmetic aesthetics and using some terminal strips to be able to mechanically mount those 3 individual single sections to the chassis proper .
Next , one terminal at a time, lift the wiring from individual can terminals and transfer onto the new 3 separate electrolytics just mounted. That should get the sets B+ back to a proper filtered state and then a test could be initiated…..look ….no hummmmm.
The only other shortcoming might be the presence of some leaky (voltage-wise) coupling and bypass condensers within the unit, with that to be attacked lastly.
Addenda: as per your mention of mica and silver micas….they are #’s 10,998 and 10,999 on a looooong list, of even being suspect in your set …as compared to paper caps OR the info I gave you on your filter problem in the set.
The chassis top and concerned wiring portion ( with polarities enhanced) is made for referencing on the accompanying thumbnail:
(Assuredly your mentioned schematic copy has finitely better clarity than my old refererencing copy used !)
ZUJ'ing
73's de Edd
:Ok... just so I'm sure what you're talking about... when you say "electrolytic capacitor", is that the same as a condenser? I'm guessing it is, because about 8 of them mention "mica" or "silver mica". Are these mica ones the ones you suggest I replace first? Or can you test them, or what?
:
:I purchased an original 4 page "silvertone radio repair parts price list" that gives all the locations of all the condensers, resistors, etc.
:
The good news is that it says the replacement part #1012043064 only costs $1.43! (ha ha)