I was testing the set after cleaning, changing all the wax caps, electrolytic caps, several wires, checked all the tubes which all tested ok as when I bought this set. Under the chassis where the wires come out of the transformer they are in generally blackish for about the firt 2 inches or so when I got the set. Maybe it got hot before?
I powered it up with my variac and it was tuning on two bands. The AM was good for a nearby powerful
station and ok for a less powerful nearby station so I
was letting it run for about 5 minutes when it started
smoking and I immediately turned it off. Radio was still playing when I cut the power. Smoking gradually stopped. The smoke was coming from the opening it the
transformer where the wires exit. Somthing was getting
toasty in there. Does this indicate a short. How do I
test this to find out what caused this? or if the transformer is no good. If it is no good. Does a place like AES have something that would be a good replacement?
Bob
possibly a wire next to it as well... Would this have
caused the smoking? I had tried to put heat shrink where the wire was exposed on that On/Off lead but somehow I missed that exposed part of the wire. But
there are two openings (holes) in the bottom of the TX
where the wires come out and the opening where the
this possible short to the cover is at is not the opening where the smoke was coming from if that makes
any difference.
Bob
:http://www.nostalgiaair.org/Resources/781/M0007781.htm
:
:I was testing the set after cleaning, changing all the wax caps, electrolytic caps, several wires, checked all the tubes which all tested ok as when I bought this set. Under the chassis where the wires come out of the transformer they are in generally blackish for about the firt 2 inches or so when I got the set. Maybe it got hot before?
: I powered it up with my variac and it was tuning on two bands. The AM was good for a nearby powerful
:station and ok for a less powerful nearby station so I
:was letting it run for about 5 minutes when it started
:smoking and I immediately turned it off. Radio was still playing when I cut the power. Smoking gradually stopped. The smoke was coming from the opening it the
:transformer where the wires exit. Somthing was getting
:toasty in there. Does this indicate a short. How do I
:test this to find out what caused this? or if the transformer is no good. If it is no good. Does a place like AES have something that would be a good replacement?
:Bob
:
You mention that the proximal txfmr leads are dark - perhaps from dripped wax / pitch from a previous overheating? Is there a collection of wax in the cabinet under where the txfmr would sit? Is there any evidence of a prior txfmr replacement? (I had a similar problem once and it was due to a previously replaced txfmr that wasn't bulky enough to handle the load.) Also, once a txfmr starts to go - sometimes it is damaged enough to need replacement. I'd check every possible avenue before replacing a co$tly txfmr - if the problem isn't corrected, you could fry a 'new' txfmr too.
___________________
:I now see the wire that goes to the On/Off switch could very well have been shorting to the TX cover.
:possibly a wire next to it as well... Would this have
:caused the smoking? I had tried to put heat shrink where the wire was exposed on that On/Off lead but somehow I missed that exposed part of the wire. But
:there are two openings (holes) in the bottom of the TX
:where the wires come out and the opening where the
:this possible short to the cover is at is not the opening where the smoke was coming from if that makes
:any difference.
:Bob
:
::http://www.nostalgiaair.org/Resources/781/M0007781.htm
::
::I was testing the set after cleaning, changing all the wax caps, electrolytic caps, several wires, checked all the tubes which all tested ok as when I bought this set. Under the chassis where the wires come out of the transformer they are in generally blackish for about the firt 2 inches or so when I got the set. Maybe it got hot before?
:: I powered it up with my variac and it was tuning on two bands. The AM was good for a nearby powerful
::station and ok for a less powerful nearby station so I
::was letting it run for about 5 minutes when it started
::smoking and I immediately turned it off. Radio was still playing when I cut the power. Smoking gradually stopped. The smoke was coming from the opening it the
::transformer where the wires exit. Somthing was getting
::toasty in there. Does this indicate a short. How do I
::test this to find out what caused this? or if the transformer is no good. If it is no good. Does a place like AES have something that would be a good replacement?
::Bob
::
You mention that the proximal txfmr leads are dark - perhaps from dripped wax / pitch from a previous overheating? Is there a collection of wax in the cabinet under where the txfmr would sit? Is there any evidence of a prior txfmr replacement? (I had a similar problem once and it was due to a previously replaced txfmr that wasn't bulky enough to handle the load.) Also, once a txfmr starts to go - sometimes it is damaged enough to need replacement. I'd check every possible avenue before replacing a co$tly txfmr - if the problem isn't corrected, you could fry a 'new' txfmr too.
___________________
:I now see the wire that goes to the On/Off switch could very well have been shorting to the TX cover.
:possibly a wire next to it as well... Would this have
:caused the smoking? I had tried to put heat shrink where the wire was exposed on that On/Off lead but somehow I missed that exposed part of the wire. But
:there are two openings (holes) in the bottom of the TX
:where the wires come out and the opening where the
:this possible short to the cover is at is not the opening where the smoke was coming from if that makes
:any difference.
:Bob
:
::http://www.nostalgiaair.org/Resources/781/M0007781.htm
::
::I was testing the set after cleaning, changing all the wax caps, electrolytic caps, several wires, checked all the tubes which all tested ok as when I bought this set. Under the chassis where the wires come out of the transformer they are in generally blackish for about the firt 2 inches or so when I got the set. Maybe it got hot before?
:: I powered it up with my variac and it was tuning on two bands. The AM was good for a nearby powerful
::station and ok for a less powerful nearby station so I
::was letting it run for about 5 minutes when it started
::smoking and I immediately turned it off. Radio was still playing when I cut the power. Smoking gradually stopped. The smoke was coming from the opening it the
::transformer where the wires exit. Somthing was getting
::toasty in there. Does this indicate a short. How do I
::test this to find out what caused this? or if the transformer is no good. If it is no good. Does a place like AES have something that would be a good replacement?
::Bob
::
Before you go any further pull the rectifier tube. It's a 5W4 in the schematic. Try the radio with this tube removed. If the transformer stays cool it will be ok. If it gets hot and smokes again the transformer is shorted and will need to be replaced.
Pulling the rectifier removes load from high voltage winding and 5W4 filament winding. Only thing left are 6 volt tube filaments.
Be sure only one wire from the transformer is connected to pin #3 and #5 of the 5W4 tube.
Norm
:Bob, I really don't see how a short to the line switch would cause your symptoms (combined with the facts that the radio was actually playing and components weren't exploding) - but I could be wrong. Since you have done some extensive repairing, I'd suggest you go back through it carefully (with schematic in hand) to make sure you haven't mis-wired something. Trace out the circuits with a hiliter pen. Other than the caps, I'd also check the resistors for value drift. If this set has an electrodynamic speaker - make sure the field coil is okay.
:
: You mention that the proximal txfmr leads are dark - perhaps from dripped wax / pitch from a previous overheating? Is there a collection of wax in the cabinet under where the txfmr would sit? Is there any evidence of a prior txfmr replacement? (I had a similar problem once and it was due to a previously replaced txfmr that wasn't bulky enough to handle the load.) Also, once a txfmr starts to go - sometimes it is damaged enough to need replacement. I'd check every possible avenue before replacing a co$tly txfmr - if the problem isn't corrected, you could fry a 'new' txfmr too.
:
:
:
:___________________
:
::I now see the wire that goes to the On/Off switch could very well have been shorting to the TX cover.
::possibly a wire next to it as well... Would this have
::caused the smoking? I had tried to put heat shrink where the wire was exposed on that On/Off lead but somehow I missed that exposed part of the wire. But
::there are two openings (holes) in the bottom of the TX
::where the wires come out and the opening where the
::this possible short to the cover is at is not the opening where the smoke was coming from if that makes
::any difference.
::Bob
::
:::http://www.nostalgiaair.org/Resources/781/M0007781.htm
:::
:::I was testing the set after cleaning, changing all the wax caps, electrolytic caps, several wires, checked all the tubes which all tested ok as when I bought this set. Under the chassis where the wires come out of the transformer they are in generally blackish for about the firt 2 inches or so when I got the set. Maybe it got hot before?
::: I powered it up with my variac and it was tuning on two bands. The AM was good for a nearby powerful
:::station and ok for a less powerful nearby station so I
:::was letting it run for about 5 minutes when it started
:::smoking and I immediately turned it off. Radio was still playing when I cut the power. Smoking gradually stopped. The smoke was coming from the opening it the
:::transformer where the wires exit. Somthing was getting
:::toasty in there. Does this indicate a short. How do I
:::test this to find out what caused this? or if the transformer is no good. If it is no good. Does a place like AES have something that would be a good replacement?
:::Bob
:::
This set looks like it had a different tube base installed and it has a 5Y3 in it. Sooo Pins 3,5,7 have no connections to them. Pins 2,4,6,8, have connections to the transformer. Pin 1 goes to chassis ground, and
pin 8 also connects to C1 (electrolytic) positive and a wire that goes to the speaker.I have not tried anything until I hear what you say about this. I should have noticed this before but do not know if it makes a diff.
Thanks, Bob
:Bob
:
: Before you go any further pull the rectifier tube. It's a 5W4 in the schematic. Try the radio with this tube removed. If the transformer stays cool it will be ok. If it gets hot and smokes again the transformer is shorted and will need to be replaced.
:
: Pulling the rectifier removes load from high voltage winding and 5W4 filament winding. Only thing left are 6 volt tube filaments.
:
: Be sure only one wire from the transformer is connected to pin #3 and #5 of the 5W4 tube.
:
:Norm
:
::Bob, I really don't see how a short to the line switch would cause your symptoms (combined with the facts that the radio was actually playing and components weren't exploding) - but I could be wrong. Since you have done some extensive repairing, I'd suggest you go back through it carefully (with schematic in hand) to make sure you haven't mis-wired something. Trace out the circuits with a hiliter pen. Other than the caps, I'd also check the resistors for value drift. If this set has an electrodynamic speaker - make sure the field coil is okay.
::
:: You mention that the proximal txfmr leads are dark - perhaps from dripped wax / pitch from a previous overheating? Is there a collection of wax in the cabinet under where the txfmr would sit? Is there any evidence of a prior txfmr replacement? (I had a similar problem once and it was due to a previously replaced txfmr that wasn't bulky enough to handle the load.) Also, once a txfmr starts to go - sometimes it is damaged enough to need replacement. I'd check every possible avenue before replacing a co$tly txfmr - if the problem isn't corrected, you could fry a 'new' txfmr too.
::
::
::
::___________________
::
:::I now see the wire that goes to the On/Off switch could very well have been shorting to the TX cover.
:::possibly a wire next to it as well... Would this have
:::caused the smoking? I had tried to put heat shrink where the wire was exposed on that On/Off lead but somehow I missed that exposed part of the wire. But
:::there are two openings (holes) in the bottom of the TX
:::where the wires come out and the opening where the
:::this possible short to the cover is at is not the opening where the smoke was coming from if that makes
:::any difference.
:::Bob
:::
::::http://www.nostalgiaair.org/Resources/781/M0007781.htm
::::
::::I was testing the set after cleaning, changing all the wax caps, electrolytic caps, several wires, checked all the tubes which all tested ok as when I bought this set. Under the chassis where the wires come out of the transformer they are in generally blackish for about the firt 2 inches or so when I got the set. Maybe it got hot before?
:::: I powered it up with my variac and it was tuning on two bands. The AM was good for a nearby powerful
::::station and ok for a less powerful nearby station so I
::::was letting it run for about 5 minutes when it started
::::smoking and I immediately turned it off. Radio was still playing when I cut the power. Smoking gradually stopped. The smoke was coming from the opening it the
::::transformer where the wires exit. Somthing was getting
::::toasty in there. Does this indicate a short. How do I
::::test this to find out what caused this? or if the transformer is no good. If it is no good. Does a place like AES have something that would be a good replacement?
::::Bob
::::
:
: Before you go any further pull the rectifier tube. It's a 5W4 in the schematic. Try the radio with this tube removed. If the transformer stays cool it will be ok. If it gets hot and smokes again the transformer is shorted and will need to be replaced.
:
: Pulling the rectifier removes load from high voltage winding and 5W4 filament winding. Only thing left are 6 volt tube filaments.
:
: Be sure only one wire from the transformer is connected to pin #3 and #5 of the 5W4 tube.
:
:Norm
Also, with the 5W4 out of the socket, measure the 6 Volt filament string, too. Norm's advice is good, but a shorted filament string might have you buying a transformer you don't really need. Of course, trying to read a filament winding with a VOM or DMM will just show a dead short.
Lewis
:
be replaced. Any suggestions on where and how to order
one? It may be beyond my scope with all those unmarked
wires coming out of the TX...
Bob
::Bob
::
:: Before you go any further pull the rectifier tube. It's a 5W4 in the schematic. Try the radio with this tube removed. If the transformer stays cool it will be ok. If it gets hot and smokes again the transformer is shorted and will need to be replaced.
::
:: Pulling the rectifier removes load from high voltage winding and 5W4 filament winding. Only thing left are 6 volt tube filaments.
::
:: Be sure only one wire from the transformer is connected to pin #3 and #5 of the 5W4 tube.
::
::Norm
:
:
:Also, with the 5W4 out of the socket, measure the 6 Volt filament string, too. Norm's advice is good, but a shorted filament string might have you buying a transformer you don't really need. Of course, trying to read a filament winding with a VOM or DMM will just show a dead short.
:Lewis
::
evident here. Did I rewire them incorrectly? Keep in mind someone has substituted a 5Y3 for the 5W4. And I do not know if that helps but my tube manual looked like it said 5Y3 is a Sub for 5W4.
:http://www.nostalgiaair.org/Resources/781/M0007781.htm
:
:I was testing the set after cleaning, changing all the wax caps, electrolytic caps, several wires, checked all the tubes which all tested ok as when I bought this set. Under the chassis where the wires come out of the transformer they are in generally blackish for about the firt 2 inches or so when I got the set. Maybe it got hot before?
: I powered it up with my variac and it was tuning on two bands. The AM was good for a nearby powerful
:station and ok for a less powerful nearby station so I
:was letting it run for about 5 minutes when it started
:smoking and I immediately turned it off. Radio was still playing when I cut the power. Smoking gradually stopped. The smoke was coming from the opening it the
:transformer where the wires exit. Somthing was getting
:toasty in there. Does this indicate a short. How do I
:test this to find out what caused this? or if the transformer is no good. If it is no good. Does a place like AES have something that would be a good replacement?
:Bob
:
:evident here. Did I rewire them incorrectly? Keep in mind someone has substituted a 5Y3 for the 5W4. And I do not know if that helps but my tube manual looked like it said 5Y3 is a Sub for 5W4.
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
::http://www.nostalgiaair.org/Resources/781/M0007781.htm
::
::I was testing the set after cleaning, changing all the wax caps, electrolytic caps, several wires, checked all the tubes which all tested ok as when I bought this set. Under the chassis where the wires come out of the transformer they are in generally blackish for about the firt 2 inches or so when I got the set. Maybe it got hot before?
:: I powered it up with my variac and it was tuning on two bands. The AM was good for a nearby powerful
::station and ok for a less powerful nearby station so I
::was letting it run for about 5 minutes when it started
::smoking and I immediately turned it off. Radio was still playing when I cut the power. Smoking gradually stopped. The smoke was coming from the opening it the
::transformer where the wires exit. Somthing was getting
::toasty in there. Does this indicate a short. How do I
::test this to find out what caused this? or if the transformer is no good. If it is no good. Does a place like AES have something that would be a good replacement?
::Bob
::
Go to above or right click and select view image is previous post. Posting the picture did not work.
Using a 5Y3 in place of 5W4 will work if the power transformer can handle a little extra current. 5W4 draws 1.5 amps filament current, 5Y3 2 amps. Both have the same basing. Actually pins 4 and 6 should have the wires not 3 and 5. Those pins should have no wires.
Pull the tube and see it the power transformer gets hot? Measure filaments of other tubes like Lewis suggested. Should be 6 volts.
When I go to the site there a lot of pictures but didn't see a radio?
Norm
:http://s231.photobucket.com/albums/ee203/bobwiththeradioproblem/?action=view¤t=GE_E71.jpg
:
:Go to above or right click and select view image is previous post. Posting the picture did not work.
:
Go to my first post where I tried to post the picture and
right click then select view image if you use a PC.
Maybe you did not cut and paste the whole url in the other message. I tried it both ways and it goes to my
picture but maybe it is just my computer.... ?? I will try to post it again and again and again :O)
Bob
I pulled the 5Y3 Rectifier and turned on the set. After about 3-5 minutes it gradually got warmer but not hot before the transformer barely started smoking again and I turned it off.
I only had time to test one other tube: the 6F6 and it measured 5.7 volts.
Bob
I pulled the 5Y3 Rectifier and turned on the set. After about 3-5 minutes it gradually got warmer but not hot before the transformer barely started smoking again and I turned it off.
I only had time to test one other tube: the 6F6 and it measured 5.7 volts.
Bob
Direct link below: This should work...?
http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee203/bobwiththeradioproblem/GE_E71.jpg
Pos end of C1 is connected to Pin 8 not Pin 7 as I have shown in my drawing.
Don't blame anyone for ingnoring my mess here...
Sorry.
Reposting this from above so you hopefully notice it...This string is a nightmare and so is this $18 radio...
I pulled the 5Y3 Rectifier and turned on the set. After about 3-5 minutes it gradually got warmer but not hot before the transformer barely started smoking again and I turned it off.
I only had time to test one other tube: the 6F6 and it measured 5.7 volts.
Bob
: Drawing has an error sorry...
:Pos end of C1 is connected to Pin 8 not Pin 7 as I have shown in my drawing.
: Don't blame anyone for ingnoring my mess here...
:
Transformer is bad. Even barely smoking means turns are shorted. Measuring 5.7 volts for 6.3 volts filaments also shows the transformer has a problem. Would expect voltage to be on the high side without rectifier being plugged in.
Your radio chassis picture did post. Chassis looks clean but notice black material around wires leaving the transformer.
Best price on a replacement transformer is from PTOP. Here is their list:
http://www.oldradioparts.com/2a23efl.txt
You could also buy a transformer from AES, www.tubesandmore.com or Radio Daze, www.radiodaze.com .
Norm
:Norm,
:Reposting this from above so you hopefully notice it...This string is a nightmare and so is this $18 radio...
:I pulled the 5Y3 Rectifier and turned on the set. After about 3-5 minutes it gradually got warmer but not hot before the transformer barely started smoking again and I turned it off.
:I only had time to test one other tube: the 6F6 and it measured 5.7 volts.
:Bob
:
:
:
:
:: Drawing has an error sorry...
::Pos end of C1 is connected to Pin 8 not Pin 7 as I have shown in my drawing.
:: Don't blame anyone for ingnoring my mess here...
:
::
:
: Transformer is bad. Even barely smoking means turns are shorted. Measuring 5.7 volts for 6.3 volts filaments also shows the transformer has a problem. Would expect voltage to be on the high side without rectifier being plugged in.
:
: Your radio chassis picture did post. Chassis looks clean but notice black material around wires leaving the transformer.
:
: Best price on a replacement transformer is from PTOP. Here is their list:
:
:http://www.oldradioparts.com/2a23efl.txt
:
: You could also buy a transformer from AES, www.tubesandmore.com or Radio Daze, www.radiodaze.com .
:
:Norm
:
:
:
:
:
::Norm,
::Reposting this from above so you hopefully notice it...This string is a nightmare and so is this $18 radio...
::I pulled the 5Y3 Rectifier and turned on the set. After about 3-5 minutes it gradually got warmer but not hot before the transformer barely started smoking again and I turned it off.
::I only had time to test one other tube: the 6F6 and it measured 5.7 volts.
::Bob
::
::
::
::
::: Drawing has an error sorry...
:::Pos end of C1 is connected to Pin 8 not Pin 7 as I have shown in my drawing.
::: Don't blame anyone for ingnoring my mess here...
::
:::
thanks, Bob
:Hi Bob
:
: Transformer is bad. Even barely smoking means turns are shorted. Measuring 5.7 volts for 6.3 volts filaments also shows the transformer has a problem. Would expect voltage to be on the high side without rectifier being plugged in.
:
: Your radio chassis picture did post. Chassis looks clean but notice black material around wires leaving the transformer.
:
: Best price on a replacement transformer is from PTOP. Here is their list:
:
:http://www.oldradioparts.com/2a23efl.txt
:
: You could also buy a transformer from AES, www.tubesandmore.com or Radio Daze, www.radiodaze.com .
:
:Norm
:
:
:
:
:
::Norm,
::Reposting this from above so you hopefully notice it...This string is a nightmare and so is this $18 radio...
::I pulled the 5Y3 Rectifier and turned on the set. After about 3-5 minutes it gradually got warmer but not hot before the transformer barely started smoking again and I turned it off.
::I only had time to test one other tube: the 6F6 and it measured 5.7 volts.
::Bob
::
::
::
::
::: Drawing has an error sorry...
:::Pos end of C1 is connected to Pin 8 not Pin 7 as I have shown in my drawing.
::: Don't blame anyone for ingnoring my mess here...
::
:::
You need a transformer with 3 secondary windings. 5 volts @ 2 amps ( a 5W4 only draws 1.5 but most transforners are rated 2 amps) 6.3 volts @ around 3 amps. (I added up 2.65 amps including lamp) 300-0-300 @ 70 ma high voltage winding. Could go to 330-0-330. Exact voltage here isn't critical.
If your original transformer had different taps on the primary forget it. You only need 120 VAC anyway and multi tapped primaries are hard to find in the US.
Norm
:So can anyhone help me with what the specs are that I am looking for to match up with the description on old radio parts site? My transformer has little info on it except I believe that it is a horizontal half shell, has 9TM5199C2 and GE EP stamped on it. I have the dimensions and the schematic says Universal Power Transformer, 105-130 and 200-250 volts 40-60 cycles Stock number RT-076. None of this looks like what they have listed for the ones they have right now.
:thanks, Bob
:
:
:
:
::Hi Bob
::
:: Transformer is bad. Even barely smoking means turns are shorted. Measuring 5.7 volts for 6.3 volts filaments also shows the transformer has a problem. Would expect voltage to be on the high side without rectifier being plugged in.
::
:: Your radio chassis picture did post. Chassis looks clean but notice black material around wires leaving the transformer.
::
:: Best price on a replacement transformer is from PTOP. Here is their list:
::
::http://www.oldradioparts.com/2a23efl.txt
::
:: You could also buy a transformer from AES, www.tubesandmore.com or Radio Daze, www.radiodaze.com .
::
::Norm
::
::
::
::
::
:::Norm,
:::Reposting this from above so you hopefully notice it...This string is a nightmare and so is this $18 radio...
:::I pulled the 5Y3 Rectifier and turned on the set. After about 3-5 minutes it gradually got warmer but not hot before the transformer barely started smoking again and I turned it off.
:::I only had time to test one other tube: the 6F6 and it measured 5.7 volts.
:::Bob
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::: Drawing has an error sorry...
::::Pos end of C1 is connected to Pin 8 not Pin 7 as I have shown in my drawing.
:::: Don't blame anyone for ingnoring my mess here...
:::
::::
I have been doing some "shoppin".
Can you tell me if I selected a correct replacement
transformer from those below for my GE E-71? I have been reading up on replacing, testing them in Elements of Radio Servicing and sounds like it will be interesting to try to change one as this will be the
first one.
Thanks, BOb
-------------------------------------------------------
RadioDaze:
HX-272BX $43.23
95
115 60
300-0-300
100
5.0V@2A
6.3V@3A
X8
3.4
-------------------------------------------------------
P-T273DZ
2007 Catalog
page 34
TRANSFORMER, POWER, HAMMOND, 350-0-350 V, 90 mA
RoHS Compliant
* Primary 115 VAC, 60 Hz.
* Secondary DC current measured with cap. input filter, full wave (two diode) C.T., rectifier circuit.
* Enclosed, 4 hole chassis mount.
* Minimum 6" long leads.
* Class A insulation (105 degrees C).
* Hi-Pot test of 2,000 V RMS.
* Conservative designs - CSA certified (# LR3902).
Secondary: 350-0-350 V, 90 mA
Filament winding 1: 5 V, 2 A
Filament winding 2: 6.3 V, 3 A CT
Mounting centers: horizontal mount
Weight:4.9 lbs.
-------------------------------------------------------
TRANSFORMER, POWER, HAMMOND, 350-0-350 V, 90 mA
RoHS Compliant
* Primary 115 VAC, 60 Hz.
* Secondary DC current measured with cap. input filter, full wave (two diode) C.T., rectifier circuit.
* Enclosed, 4 hole chassis mount.
* Minimum 6" long leads.
* Class A insulation (105 degrees C).
* Hi-Pot test of 2,000 V RMS.
* Conservative designs - CSA certified (# LR3902).
Secondary: 350-0-350 V, 90 mA
Filament winding 1: 5 V, 2 A
Filament winding 2: 6.3 V, 3 A CT
Mounting centers: horizontal mount
Weight:4.9 lbs.
-------------------------------------------------------
P-T272BX
2007 Catalog
page 34
TRANSFORMER, POWER, HAMMOND, 300-0-300 V, 100 mA
RoHS Compliant
* Primary 115 VAC, 60 Hz.
* Secondary DC current measured with cap. input filter, full wave (two diode) C.T., rectifier circuit.
* Enclosed, 4 hole chassis mount.
* Minimum 6" long leads.
* Class A insulation (105 degrees C).
* Hi-Pot test of 2,000 V RMS.
* Conservative designs - CSA certified (# LR3902).
Secondary: 300-0-300 V, 100 mA
Filament winding 1: 5 V, 2 A
Filament winding 2: 6.3 V, 3 A
Mounting centers: 2" x 2.19" vertical mount
Weight: 3.5 lbs.
Any of those transformers will work in your radio. Notice where it says Horizontal or Vertical mount. Vertical transformers mount upright on a chassis. Horizontal mount have part of the transformer under a chassis. Be sure the transformer fits on the radio chassis.
It won't be hard wiring up a replacement transformer. There are standard color codes for wires. Black - 120 volts input, Green - 6.3 volts, Yellow - 5 Volts, Red high voltage with red and another color for center tap.
Norm
:Norm,
:I have been doing some "shoppin".
:Can you tell me if I selected a correct replacement
:transformer from those below for my GE E-71? I have been reading up on replacing, testing them in Elements of Radio Servicing and sounds like it will be interesting to try to change one as this will be the
:first one.
:Thanks, BOb
:-------------------------------------------------------
:RadioDaze:
:
:HX-272BX $43.23
:95
: 115 60
:300-0-300
:
:100
:
:5.0V@2A
:
:6.3V@3A
:
:X8
: 3.4
:-------------------------------------------------------
:P-T273DZ
:2007 Catalog
:page 34
:TRANSFORMER, POWER, HAMMOND, 350-0-350 V, 90 mA
:
:RoHS Compliant
:
: * Primary 115 VAC, 60 Hz.
: * Secondary DC current measured with cap. input filter, full wave (two diode) C.T., rectifier circuit.
: * Enclosed, 4 hole chassis mount.
: * Minimum 6" long leads.
: * Class A insulation (105 degrees C).
: * Hi-Pot test of 2,000 V RMS.
: * Conservative designs - CSA certified (# LR3902).
:
:Secondary: 350-0-350 V, 90 mA
:Filament winding 1: 5 V, 2 A
:Filament winding 2: 6.3 V, 3 A CT
:Mounting centers: horizontal mount
:Weight:4.9 lbs.
:-------------------------------------------------------
:
:TRANSFORMER, POWER, HAMMOND, 350-0-350 V, 90 mA
:
:RoHS Compliant
:
: * Primary 115 VAC, 60 Hz.
: * Secondary DC current measured with cap. input filter, full wave (two diode) C.T., rectifier circuit.
: * Enclosed, 4 hole chassis mount.
: * Minimum 6" long leads.
: * Class A insulation (105 degrees C).
: * Hi-Pot test of 2,000 V RMS.
: * Conservative designs - CSA certified (# LR3902).
:
:Secondary: 350-0-350 V, 90 mA
:Filament winding 1: 5 V, 2 A
:Filament winding 2: 6.3 V, 3 A CT
:Mounting centers: horizontal mount
:Weight:4.9 lbs.
:
:-------------------------------------------------------
:
:P-T272BX
:2007 Catalog
:page 34
:
:TRANSFORMER, POWER, HAMMOND, 300-0-300 V, 100 mA
:
:RoHS Compliant
:
: * Primary 115 VAC, 60 Hz.
: * Secondary DC current measured with cap. input filter, full wave (two diode) C.T., rectifier circuit.
: * Enclosed, 4 hole chassis mount.
: * Minimum 6" long leads.
: * Class A insulation (105 degrees C).
: * Hi-Pot test of 2,000 V RMS.
: * Conservative designs - CSA certified (# LR3902).
:
:Secondary: 300-0-300 V, 100 mA
:Filament winding 1: 5 V, 2 A
:Filament winding 2: 6.3 V, 3 A
:Mounting centers: 2" x 2.19" vertical mount
:Weight: 3.5 lbs.
:
1 more question for now.
Is one of the 300-0-300 versions the preferred replacement?
And yes, the one in my set is horizontal so I will have to do some careful measuring to be sure it will fit nicely. I think all of those sets I listed have vertical type mounts. thanks, Bob
Let me inject a suggestion. I restored an RCA console a while back. When received, it had an aftermarket cased transformer mounted upright and hung over the chassis, with a new hole for the wiring entering from the rear. The orig had been a horiz with wire exiting below the chassis. Upon close examination and measurements, found removing the case and flipping it to horiz position, only new mounting holes were req'd and no more overhang.
marv
:Thanks,
:1 more question for now.
:Is one of the 300-0-300 versions the preferred replacement?
:And yes, the one in my set is horizontal so I will have to do some careful measuring to be sure it will fit nicely. I think all of those sets I listed have vertical type mounts. thanks, Bob
_______________________
:Bob,
:Let me inject a suggestion. I restored an RCA console a while back. When received, it had an aftermarket cased transformer mounted upright and hung over the chassis, with a new hole for the wiring entering from the rear. The orig had been a horiz with wire exiting below the chassis. Upon close examination and measurements, found removing the case and flipping it to horiz position, only new mounting holes were req'd and no more overhang.
:
:marv
:
::Thanks,
::1 more question for now.
::Is one of the 300-0-300 versions the preferred replacement?
::And yes, the one in my set is horizontal so I will have to do some careful measuring to be sure it will fit nicely. I think all of those sets I listed have vertical type mounts. thanks, Bob
Many moons ago, on the first time I went to that huge transformer site, I came up with one jammedalltogethgerlongtextfile, PLUS I didn't want print out 60 pages of ~ 600 transformers...sooooo... I transposed that inventory into Excel spreadsheet to achieve fast sorting and selection capabilities. I plugged your requirements
into the file and these units came up, with the priciest case being the top listed NEW transformerat a $26 price and all of the other possible compatibles being below ….down to as low as ~$12 Amellican Dollah.
The mounting profile is the thru the chassis drop thru on the bottom half of the x-fmr bell housing (with the case dimensions being given just before the pricing).
ADDITIONALLY, a unit should meet the weight requirement of the USPS special flat rate box to also save money in that shipping respect:
A knock down Flat Rate [BOX FRB1]is free and costs $ 8.95 to ship, and is 11" x 8 1/2" x 5 1/2" with a 70# weight limit.
T-formers list:
73's de Edd
:Marv beat me to the punch.... some of those verticle mounted txfmrs can be "shelled" (remove the case) and used as a horizontal mount. When it works, it usually works nicely.
:_______________________
:
::Bob,
::Let me inject a suggestion. I restored an RCA console a while back. When received, it had an aftermarket cased transformer mounted upright and hung over the chassis, with a new hole for the wiring entering from the rear. The orig had been a horiz with wire exiting below the chassis. Upon close examination and measurements, found removing the case and flipping it to horiz position, only new mounting holes were req'd and no more overhang.
::
::marv
::
:::Thanks,
:::1 more question for now.
:::Is one of the 300-0-300 versions the preferred replacement?
:::And yes, the one in my set is horizontal so I will have to do some careful measuring to be sure it will fit nicely. I think all of those sets I listed have vertical type mounts. thanks, Bob
Now thanks for your time and efforts with the spreadsheet calculations!
Am I to assume that any and all of these "color coded"
units will work as a replacement for my GE E-71? A lot of the spec numbers are different from the 300-0-300- 5V @2A and 6.3V @ 3A
specs I think Norm told me about. I do not know how to tell which will work and which ones will not.
If they all would be replacements....which one (s)
would be the "top contenders"?
Thanks, Bob
:
:
:
:Many moons ago, on the first time I went to that huge transformer site, I came up with one jammedalltogethgerlongtextfile, PLUS I didn't want print out 60 pages of ~ 600 transformers...sooooo... I transposed that inventory into Excel spreadsheet to achieve fast sorting and selection capabilities. I plugged your requirements
:into the file and these units came up, with the priciest case being the top listed NEW transformerat a $26 price and all of the other possible compatibles being below ….down to as low as ~$12 Amellican Dollah.
:The mounting profile is the thru the chassis drop thru on the bottom half of the x-fmr bell housing (with the case dimensions being given just before the pricing).
:
:ADDITIONALLY, a unit should meet the weight requirement of the USPS special flat rate box to also save money in that shipping respect:
:
:A knock down Flat Rate [BOX FRB1]is free and costs $ 8.95 to ship, and is 11" x 8 1/2" x 5 1/2" with a 70# weight limit.
:
:T-formers list:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:73's de Edd
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
::Marv beat me to the punch.... some of those verticle mounted txfmrs can be "shelled" (remove the case) and used as a horizontal mount. When it works, it usually works nicely.
::_______________________
::
:::Bob,
:::Let me inject a suggestion. I restored an RCA console a while back. When received, it had an aftermarket cased transformer mounted upright and hung over the chassis, with a new hole for the wiring entering from the rear. The orig had been a horiz with wire exiting below the chassis. Upon close examination and measurements, found removing the case and flipping it to horiz position, only new mounting holes were req'd and no more overhang.
:::
:::marv
:::
::::Thanks,
::::1 more question for now.
::::Is one of the 300-0-300 versions the preferred replacement?
::::And yes, the one in my set is horizontal so I will have to do some careful measuring to be sure it will fit nicely. I think all of those sets I listed have vertical type mounts. thanks, Bob
Edd gave you a great list. You can always use a transformer with higher current. High voltage winding isn't critical. Any listed by Edd will work.
Go by diamentions listed in green at the right. Some with high current will most likely be too large for your radio chassis.
Norm
:Hey Edd,
:Now thanks for your time and efforts with the spreadsheet calculations!
:Am I to assume that any and all of these "color coded"
:units will work as a replacement for my GE E-71? A lot of the spec numbers are different from the 300-0-300- 5V @2A and 6.3V @ 3A
:specs I think Norm told me about. I do not know how to tell which will work and which ones will not.
:If they all would be replacements....which one (s)
:would be the "top contenders"?
:Thanks, Bob
:
:
:
:
::
::
::
::Many moons ago, on the first time I went to that huge transformer site, I came up with one jammedalltogethgerlongtextfile, PLUS I didn't want print out 60 pages of ~ 600 transformers...sooooo... I transposed that inventory into Excel spreadsheet to achieve fast sorting and selection capabilities. I plugged your requirements
::into the file and these units came up, with the priciest case being the top listed NEW transformerat a $26 price and all of the other possible compatibles being below ….down to as low as ~$12 Amellican Dollah.
::The mounting profile is the thru the chassis drop thru on the bottom half of the x-fmr bell housing (with the case dimensions being given just before the pricing).
::
::ADDITIONALLY, a unit should meet the weight requirement of the USPS special flat rate box to also save money in that shipping respect:
::
::A knock down Flat Rate [BOX FRB1]is free and costs $ 8.95 to ship, and is 11" x 8 1/2" x 5 1/2" with a 70# weight limit.
::
::T-formers list:
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::73's de Edd
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
:::Marv beat me to the punch.... some of those verticle mounted txfmrs can be "shelled" (remove the case) and used as a horizontal mount. When it works, it usually works nicely.
:::_______________________
:::
::::Bob,
::::Let me inject a suggestion. I restored an RCA console a while back. When received, it had an aftermarket cased transformer mounted upright and hung over the chassis, with a new hole for the wiring entering from the rear. The orig had been a horiz with wire exiting below the chassis. Upon close examination and measurements, found removing the case and flipping it to horiz position, only new mounting holes were req'd and no more overhang.
::::
::::marv
::::
:::::Thanks,
:::::1 more question for now.
:::::Is one of the 300-0-300 versions the preferred replacement?
:::::And yes, the one in my set is horizontal so I will have to do some careful measuring to be sure it will fit nicely. I think all of those sets I listed have vertical type mounts. thanks, Bob
My bad TX takes up an area 3.5 X 3 LW on top of the chassis.
The smaller underbelly that drops through the chassis
opening is roughly 2 1/4 X 2 5/8 and it
extends down into the chassis about 1 3/8 inch.
Would any of this list meet my area/opening?
Bob
: Edd gave you a great list. You can always use a transformer with higher current. High voltage winding isn't critical. Any listed by Edd will work.
:
: Go by diamentions listed in green at the right. Some with high current will most likely be too large for your radio chassis.
:
:Norm
:
::Hey Edd,
::Now thanks for your time and efforts with the spreadsheet calculations!
::Am I to assume that any and all of these "color coded"
::units will work as a replacement for my GE E-71? A lot of the spec numbers are different from the 300-0-300- 5V @2A and 6.3V @ 3A
::specs I think Norm told me about. I do not know how to tell which will work and which ones will not.
::If they all would be replacements....which one (s)
::would be the "top contenders"?
::Thanks, Bob
::
::
::
::
:::
:::
:::
:::Many moons ago, on the first time I went to that huge transformer site, I came up with one jammedalltogethgerlongtextfile, PLUS I didn't want print out 60 pages of ~ 600 transformers...sooooo... I transposed that inventory into Excel spreadsheet to achieve fast sorting and selection capabilities. I plugged your requirements
:::into the file and these units came up, with the priciest case being the top listed NEW transformerat a $26 price and all of the other possible compatibles being below ….down to as low as ~$12 Amellican Dollah.
:::The mounting profile is the thru the chassis drop thru on the bottom half of the x-fmr bell housing (with the case dimensions being given just before the pricing).
:::
:::ADDITIONALLY, a unit should meet the weight requirement of the USPS special flat rate box to also save money in that shipping respect:
:::
:::A knock down Flat Rate [BOX FRB1]is free and costs $ 8.95 to ship, and is 11" x 8 1/2" x 5 1/2" with a 70# weight limit.
:::
:::T-formers list:
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::73's de Edd
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
::::Marv beat me to the punch.... some of those verticle mounted txfmrs can be "shelled" (remove the case) and used as a horizontal mount. When it works, it usually works nicely.
::::_______________________
::::
:::::Bob,
:::::Let me inject a suggestion. I restored an RCA console a while back. When received, it had an aftermarket cased transformer mounted upright and hung over the chassis, with a new hole for the wiring entering from the rear. The orig had been a horiz with wire exiting below the chassis. Upon close examination and measurements, found removing the case and flipping it to horiz position, only new mounting holes were req'd and no more overhang.
:::::
:::::marv
:::::
::::::Thanks,
::::::1 more question for now.
::::::Is one of the 300-0-300 versions the preferred replacement?
::::::And yes, the one in my set is horizontal so I will have to do some careful measuring to be sure it will fit nicely. I think all of those sets I listed have vertical type mounts. thanks, Bob
On your printouts of applicable units, the three dimensional casing numbers given just before the pricing are A…the longest dimension and
then B…the next shortest dimension and the final one C…is the mounted overall top to bottom height of the unit….refer to my Figure A above
Then, if you will refer to drawing B above…that gives some idea of the rough dimensions of the top and bottom bell housings inserts and the
thickness of the laminations core mass.
You can then cross-interpolate to the probable size of another dimensional ratio of a slightly different sized transformer…. PLUS…. there’s
always that final possibility of slight use of rat tail and mill files on the chassis proper for slight hole alterations later on.
73's de Edd
:I am not catching on how the dimensions given on the chart relate to the opening on and area that I have on my chassis.
: My bad TX takes up an area 3.5 X 3 LW on top of the chassis.
: The smaller underbelly that drops through the chassis
: opening is roughly 2 1/4 X 2 5/8 and it
: extends down into the chassis about 1 3/8 inch.
:Would any of this list meet my area/opening?
:Bob
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:: Edd gave you a great list. You can always use a transformer with higher current. High voltage winding isn't critical. Any listed by Edd will work.
::
:: Go by diamentions listed in green at the right. Some with high current will most likely be too large for your radio chassis.
::
::Norm
::
:::Hey Edd,
:::Now thanks for your time and efforts with the spreadsheet calculations!
:::Am I to assume that any and all of these "color coded"
:::units will work as a replacement for my GE E-71? A lot of the spec numbers are different from the 300-0-300- 5V @2A and 6.3V @ 3A
:::specs I think Norm told me about. I do not know how to tell which will work and which ones will not.
:::If they all would be replacements....which one (s)
:::would be the "top contenders"?
:::Thanks, Bob
:::
:::
:::
:::
::::
::::
::::
::::Many moons ago, on the first time I went to that huge transformer site, I came up with one jammedalltogethgerlongtextfile, PLUS I didn't want print out 60 pages of ~ 600 transformers...sooooo... I transposed that inventory into Excel spreadsheet to achieve fast sorting and selection capabilities. I plugged your requirements
::::into the file and these units came up, with the priciest case being the top listed NEW transformerat a $26 price and all of the other possible compatibles being below ….down to as low as ~$12 Amellican Dollah.
::::The mounting profile is the thru the chassis drop thru on the bottom half of the x-fmr bell housing (with the case dimensions being given just before the pricing).
::::
::::ADDITIONALLY, a unit should meet the weight requirement of the USPS special flat rate box to also save money in that shipping respect:
::::
::::A knock down Flat Rate [BOX FRB1]is free and costs $ 8.95 to ship, and is 11" x 8 1/2" x 5 1/2" with a 70# weight limit.
::::
::::T-formers list:
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::73's de Edd
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
:::::Marv beat me to the punch.... some of those verticle mounted txfmrs can be "shelled" (remove the case) and used as a horizontal mount. When it works, it usually works nicely.
:::::_______________________
:::::
::::::Bob,
::::::Let me inject a suggestion. I restored an RCA console a while back. When received, it had an aftermarket cased transformer mounted upright and hung over the chassis, with a new hole for the wiring entering from the rear. The orig had been a horiz with wire exiting below the chassis. Upon close examination and measurements, found removing the case and flipping it to horiz position, only new mounting holes were req'd and no more overhang.
::::::
::::::marv
::::::
:::::::Thanks,
:::::::1 more question for now.
:::::::Is one of the 300-0-300 versions the preferred replacement?
:::::::And yes, the one in my set is horizontal so I will have to do some careful measuring to be sure it will fit nicely. I think all of those sets I listed have vertical type mounts. thanks, Bob