It sounds like your Bee- Plus voltage is not even being loaded down at all …with that high of a reading being present…probably the AF output stage , since it’s the greatest current hog. Or you might have made a mis-wire in the “big change out” and left a circuit line either open or misconnected.
For a quickie…. no frills test… you could just take a 1k resistor in hand and connect one end of a test lead to the electrolytic(s) negative ground buss and then take the other ends clip and connect to the resistor. Take the free end of the resistor and go over to the plate of the AF pre-amp tube and do a super fast scratch of its plate pin tube connection and confirm a pop in the speaker, if none move over to the plate pin of the output tube and do the same.
If no pop occurs there, check out for B+ being present on those tubes and after that check your AF output transformer and speaker for continuity or interconnecting wiring integrity.
Lastly, if you have not found the problem by now…..feed us the DC voltage readings found at the red boxed areas in the attached thumbnail schema.
Also confirm the marked up resistors in the B+ supply.
73's de Edd
:I recapped it, checked the voltage across the 30mf cap, it is 168, connected the "audio out" on the signal generator to the center terminal of the volume control, there was no sound. I touched the same terminal with a screwdriver there was no sound. What should I do next?
:
:
:
:
:
:It sounds like your Bee- Plus voltage is not even being loaded down at all …with that high of a reading being present…probably the AF output stage , since it’s the greatest current hog. Or you might have made a mis-wire in the “big change out” and left a circuit line either open or misconnected.
:
:For a quickie…. no frills test… you could just take a 1k resistor in hand and connect one end of a test lead to the electrolytic(s) negative ground buss and then take the other ends clip and connect to the resistor. Take the free end of the resistor and go over to the plate of the AF pre-amp tube and do a super fast scratch of its plate pin tube connection and confirm a pop in the speaker, if none move over to the plate pin of the output tube and do the same.
:
:If no pop occurs there, check out for B+ being present on those tubes and after that check your AF output transformer and speaker for continuity or interconnecting wiring integrity.
:
:Lastly, if you have not found the problem by now…..feed us the DC voltage readings found at the red boxed areas in the attached thumbnail schema.
:Also confirm the marked up resistors in the B+ supply.
:
:
:
:
:
:73's de Edd
:
:
:
:
:
:
::I recapped it, checked the voltage across the 30mf cap, it is 168, connected the "audio out" on the signal generator to the center terminal of the volume control, there was no sound. I touched the same terminal with a screwdriver there was no sound. What should I do next?
Thanks for your reply on the schematic for the
1956 Continential auto radio. I am having
problems reading any postings... not sure if
the website is down or what?
Could you email me at dclayton@nccn.net with
the Nostalgia page(s).
I would really appreciate your help.
Best regards,
Don
:
:
:
:
:It sounds like your Bee- Plus voltage is not even being loaded down at all …with that high of a reading being present…probably the AF output stage , since it’s the greatest current hog. Or you might have made a mis-wire in the “big change out” and left a circuit line either open or misconnected.
:
:For a quickie…. no frills test… you could just take a 1k resistor in hand and connect one end of a test lead to the electrolytic(s) negative ground buss and then take the other ends clip and connect to the resistor. Take the free end of the resistor and go over to the plate of the AF pre-amp tube and do a super fast scratch of its plate pin tube connection and confirm a pop in the speaker, if none move over to the plate pin of the output tube and do the same.
:
:If no pop occurs there, check out for B+ being present on those tubes and after that check your AF output transformer and speaker for continuity or interconnecting wiring integrity.
:
:Lastly, if you have not found the problem by now…..feed us the DC voltage readings found at the red boxed areas in the attached thumbnail schema.
:Also confirm the marked up resistors in the B+ supply.
:
:
:
:
:
:73's de Edd
:
:
:
:
:
:
::I recapped it, checked the voltage across the 30mf cap, it is 168, connected the "audio out" on the signal generator to the center terminal of the volume control, there was no sound. I touched the same terminal with a screwdriver there was no sound. What should I do next?
AAAA-haaa ...looks like you have the audio aspect of the radio "wukkin" now ! What with that first
100 ohm surge resistor bad and that other 100 ohm unit invariably being the cathode resistor of the AF output tube.
Confirm that your new cathode bypass electrolytic was not damaged by the cath res being open and
> normal voltage then being put across it...but probably not.... if the pair failed at about the
same time.
You might get the set operating and whack that AF out tube with a rubber covered screwdriver handle
to see if that output tube just might have any propensity for shorting. You can confirm by the pop
in the speaker or possibly see 'da flashover internally, unless the infamous internal silvering of loktal types precludes that.
Now it looks like you might confirm the presence of B+ and their readings on the A-B highlighted areas.
It probably will be there and OK.
The next place to check for voltage would be across the mixer-osc sections grid resistor as shown at C
and do this with a high Z metering....VTVM,T-VM,FET-VM or DVM, so as to not load the hi Z 1st grid circuitry down.
Checking your units tuning medium you will see that it is utilizing variable inductance tuning so check your tuning
knob and see that turning it ends up with the mechanics that moves the slugs within the ant and osc
coils, moving them in and out to produce the tuning change.
If that works, then check the ant coil section ( marked up ) and the osc section which involves three
coils. Referencing the common connection closest to the schemas 47k osc grid resistor, the left coil can be checked in circuit, since it is in capacitive isolation. The two right (yellow) and
(blue- gray) coils would need the top leads lifted for a continuity check.
Hopefully that unit had its back cover and was stored where meeces couldn't get to those sets of coils or possibly, industrial strength urine might have acted upon them or they also might have been gnawed upon.
ZUJ'ing for feedback info......
Full working schema info:
73's de Edd
::Edd:
:Thanks for your reply on the schematic for the
:1956 Continential auto radio. I am having
:problems reading any postings... not sure if
:the website is down or what?
:
:Could you email me at dclayton@nccn.net with
:the Nostalgia page(s).
:
:I would really appreciate your help.
:
:Best regards,
:
:Don
::
::
::
::
::It sounds like your Bee- Plus voltage is not even being loaded down at all …with that high of a reading being present…probably the AF output stage , since it’s the greatest current hog. Or you might have made a mis-wire in the “big change out” and left a circuit line either open or misconnected.
::
::For a quickie…. no frills test… you could just take a 1k resistor in hand and connect one end of a test lead to the electrolytic(s) negative ground buss and then take the other ends clip and connect to the resistor. Take the free end of the resistor and go over to the plate of the AF pre-amp tube and do a super fast scratch of its plate pin tube connection and confirm a pop in the speaker, if none move over to the plate pin of the output tube and do the same.
::
::If no pop occurs there, check out for B+ being present on those tubes and after that check your AF output transformer and speaker for continuity or interconnecting wiring integrity.
::
::Lastly, if you have not found the problem by now…..feed us the DC voltage readings found at the red boxed areas in the attached thumbnail schema.
::Also confirm the marked up resistors in the B+ supply.
::
::
::
::
::
::73's de Edd
::
::
::
::
::
::
:::I recapped it, checked the voltage across the 30mf cap, it is 168, connected the "audio out" on the signal generator to the center terminal of the volume control, there was no sound. I touched the same terminal with a screwdriver there was no sound. What should I do next?
:
:
:
:
:
:AAAA-haaa ...looks like you have the audio aspect of the radio "wukkin" now ! What with that first
:100 ohm surge resistor bad and that other 100 ohm unit invariably being the cathode resistor of the AF output tube.
:Confirm that your new cathode bypass electrolytic was not damaged by the cath res being open and
:> normal voltage then being put across it...but probably not.... if the pair failed at about the
:same time.
:
:You might get the set operating and whack that AF out tube with a rubber covered screwdriver handle
:to see if that output tube just might have any propensity for shorting. You can confirm by the pop
:in the speaker or possibly see 'da flashover internally, unless the infamous internal silvering of loktal types precludes that.
:
:Now it looks like you might confirm the presence of B+ and their readings on the A-B highlighted areas.
:It probably will be there and OK.
:The next place to check for voltage would be across the mixer-osc sections grid resistor as shown at C
:and do this with a high Z metering....VTVM,T-VM,FET-VM or DVM, so as to not load the hi Z 1st grid circuitry down.
:
:Checking your units tuning medium you will see that it is utilizing variable inductance tuning so check your tuning
:knob and see that turning it ends up with the mechanics that moves the slugs within the ant and osc
:coils, moving them in and out to produce the tuning change.
:
:If that works, then check the ant coil section ( marked up ) and the osc section which involves three
:coils. Referencing the common connection closest to the schemas 47k osc grid resistor, the left coil can be checked in circuit, since it is in capacitive isolation. The two right (yellow) and
:(blue- gray) coils would need the top leads lifted for a continuity check.
:
:
:Hopefully that unit had its back cover and was stored where meeces couldn't get to those sets of coils or possibly, industrial strength urine might have acted upon them or they also might have been gnawed upon.
:
:
:ZUJ'ing for feedback info......
:
:
:Full working schema info:
:
:
:
:73's de Edd
:
:
:
:
:
:
:::Edd:
::Thanks for your reply on the schematic for the
::1956 Continential auto radio. I am having
::problems reading any postings... not sure if
::the website is down or what?
::
::Could you email me at dclayton@nccn.net with
::the Nostalgia page(s).
::
::I would really appreciate your help.
::
::Best regards,
::
::Don
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::It sounds like your Bee- Plus voltage is not even being loaded down at all …with that high of a reading being present…probably the AF output stage , since it’s the greatest current hog. Or you might have made a mis-wire in the “big change out” and left a circuit line either open or misconnected.
:::
:::For a quickie…. no frills test… you could just take a 1k resistor in hand and connect one end of a test lead to the electrolytic(s) negative ground buss and then take the other ends clip and connect to the resistor. Take the free end of the resistor and go over to the plate of the AF pre-amp tube and do a super fast scratch of its plate pin tube connection and confirm a pop in the speaker, if none move over to the plate pin of the output tube and do the same.
:::
:::If no pop occurs there, check out for B+ being present on those tubes and after that check your AF output transformer and speaker for continuity or interconnecting wiring integrity.
:::
:::Lastly, if you have not found the problem by now…..feed us the DC voltage readings found at the red boxed areas in the attached thumbnail schema.
:::Also confirm the marked up resistors in the B+ supply.
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::73's de Edd
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
::::I recapped it, checked the voltage across the 30mf cap, it is 168, connected the "audio out" on the signal generator to the center terminal of the volume control, there was no sound. I touched the same terminal with a screwdriver there was no sound. What should I do next?
With a minus voltage on the plate of the 14Q7 instead of around plus 80 volts indicates there is a problem with the first IF transformer primary winding. Take a resistance reading of the primary winding with the radio unpluged. If the primary winding is open there will not be any plus plate voltage.
Radiodoc
**********
:I checked the 10mf electorlytic, it isn't damaged. I tapped the 50A5 with a screwdriver, nothing happened. The voltage from the negative side of the electrolytics to the plate of 14Q7 is minus 8V, to 14A7 it is 85v. I'm not sure if my voltmeters have high Z metering, one is a Knight 620 the other is a modern digital meter. That isn't the only thing that I'm confused about, the other is that I am lost as to where I am on the schematic. Where the antenna comes in there are two (what I beleive to be resistors). One is 1.5"long, it has a green dot on one end & a green dot in the middle. It has "0315 or D315 printed on the side, it has infinite resistance. The other is .5" long, has a wire wrapped around the outside, it has 1.3ohms resistance. They connect to a small ceramic square where the antenna connects. The square has 2 adjustment screws. There is another coil which also has an adjustment screw.
:
:
:
:
:
::
::
::
::
::
::AAAA-haaa ...looks like you have the audio aspect of the radio "wukkin" now ! What with that first
::100 ohm surge resistor bad and that other 100 ohm unit invariably being the cathode resistor of the AF output tube.
::Confirm that your new cathode bypass electrolytic was not damaged by the cath res being open and
::> normal voltage then being put across it...but probably not.... if the pair failed at about the
::same time.
::
::You might get the set operating and whack that AF out tube with a rubber covered screwdriver handle
::to see if that output tube just might have any propensity for shorting. You can confirm by the pop
::in the speaker or possibly see 'da flashover internally, unless the infamous internal silvering of loktal types precludes that.
::
::Now it looks like you might confirm the presence of B+ and their readings on the A-B highlighted areas.
::It probably will be there and OK.
::The next place to check for voltage would be across the mixer-osc sections grid resistor as shown at C
::and do this with a high Z metering....VTVM,T-VM,FET-VM or DVM, so as to not load the hi Z 1st grid circuitry down.
::
::Checking your units tuning medium you will see that it is utilizing variable inductance tuning so check your tuning
::knob and see that turning it ends up with the mechanics that moves the slugs within the ant and osc
::coils, moving them in and out to produce the tuning change.
::
::If that works, then check the ant coil section ( marked up ) and the osc section which involves three
::coils. Referencing the common connection closest to the schemas 47k osc grid resistor, the left coil can be checked in circuit, since it is in capacitive isolation. The two right (yellow) and
::(blue- gray) coils would need the top leads lifted for a continuity check.
::
::
::Hopefully that unit had its back cover and was stored where meeces couldn't get to those sets of coils or possibly, industrial strength urine might have acted upon them or they also might have been gnawed upon.
::
::
::ZUJ'ing for feedback info......
::
::
::Full working schema info:
::
::
::
::73's de Edd
::
::
::
::
::
::
::::Edd:
:::Thanks for your reply on the schematic for the
:::1956 Continential auto radio. I am having
:::problems reading any postings... not sure if
:::the website is down or what?
:::
:::Could you email me at dclayton@nccn.net with
:::the Nostalgia page(s).
:::
:::I would really appreciate your help.
:::
:::Best regards,
:::
:::Don
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::It sounds like your Bee- Plus voltage is not even being loaded down at all …with that high of a reading being present…probably the AF output stage , since it’s the greatest current hog. Or you might have made a mis-wire in the “big change out” and left a circuit line either open or misconnected.
::::
::::For a quickie…. no frills test… you could just take a 1k resistor in hand and connect one end of a test lead to the electrolytic(s) negative ground buss and then take the other ends clip and connect to the resistor. Take the free end of the resistor and go over to the plate of the AF pre-amp tube and do a super fast scratch of its plate pin tube connection and confirm a pop in the speaker, if none move over to the plate pin of the output tube and do the same.
::::
::::If no pop occurs there, check out for B+ being present on those tubes and after that check your AF output transformer and speaker for continuity or interconnecting wiring integrity.
::::
::::Lastly, if you have not found the problem by now…..feed us the DC voltage readings found at the red boxed areas in the attached thumbnail schema.
::::Also confirm the marked up resistors in the B+ supply.
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::73's de Edd
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
:::::I recapped it, checked the voltage across the 30mf cap, it is 168, connected the "audio out" on the signal generator to the center terminal of the volume control, there was no sound. I touched the same terminal with a screwdriver there was no sound. What should I do next?
OH-TAY....After initially seeing your fo-tee-graff... the larger component ,of the two, would be the 1000pf tubular ceramic capacitor that you see in the schematic just above the osc tank coil that I have highlighted in yellow and have the red line coming up to it from the text box. the second smaller unit just looks like a 1/2 w carbon composition resistor, but the using of its body and the formation of a coil on it seems wierd at this low frequency....at VHF and UHF frequencies yes, where it could serve as a nice RF choke in that freq spectrum.....but at these low frequencies ...???.
As for the mystery adjustments you have shown....look at the schema (physically just to the very left of "the" yellow osc coil) and you will see one of them as being the variable trimmer for AM high band tracking of the other marked up yellow antenna coil at the top of the schema.
The other adjustment will be the variable trimmer for oscillator high band tracking. of the oscillator sectoin of the unit, (schematically shown, just to the left of your pulled 1000pf ceramic cap). The adjustable coil shown is for optimizing the low end of the AM band oscillator spread/tracking.
BUT....not to worry..as I certainly think those parts can be reinstalled back where they were, and will be of no further concern.
For, with your all important voltage readings supplied, we can see that your metering medium type utilized was adequate in not loading down that local oscillator circuit 1st grid circuitry, with a very healthy -8VDC reading being developed...with the tuning being set down at the low end of the AM band....570khz , to be precise...hi hi .
If you then schematically compare the plate circuitry of the 14A7 and 14Q7 you will then see that each plate has an IF transformer primary in it and their B+ is derived from a common buss. The 14A7 is fine BUT on the 14Q7, with that reading........as also was just confirmed by Le radio docteur.......you must have an open...or ...HOPEFULLY a coil windings opened Litz wire to terminal lug connection within that transformer housing. Possibly, locatable with a magnifying glass / ohmmeter combo and repairable, and then, I think your unit will spring to life again
In the interim...if you are the antsy type.... you could initiate a test /workaround by placing a 5-10k resistor across the IF transformer as a plate load resistor along with a ~50pf ceramic/sil mica RF coupling capacitor between the 14Q7 plate to 14A7 first grid circuitry for the interstage RF coupling. Then, if that works for you, go about investigating the innards of that IF transformer !
73's de Edd
:Tex,
:
:With a minus voltage on the plate of the 14Q7 instead of around plus 80 volts indicates there is a problem with the first IF transformer primary winding. Take a resistance reading of the primary winding with the radio unpluged. If the primary winding is open there will not be any plus plate voltage.
:
:Radiodoc
:**********
:
:
::I checked the 10mf electorlytic, it isn't damaged. I tapped the 50A5 with a screwdriver, nothing happened. The voltage from the negative side of the electrolytics to the plate of 14Q7 is minus 8V, to 14A7 it is 85v. I'm not sure if my voltmeters have high Z metering, one is a Knight 620 the other is a modern digital meter. That isn't the only thing that I'm confused about, the other is that I am lost as to where I am on the schematic. Where the antenna comes in there are two (what I beleive to be resistors). One is 1.5"long, it has a green dot on one end & a green dot in the middle. It has "0315 or D315 printed on the side, it has infinite resistance. The other is .5" long, has a wire wrapped around the outside, it has 1.3ohms resistance. They connect to a small ceramic square where the antenna connects. The square has 2 adjustment screws. There is another coil which also has an adjustment screw.
::
::
::
::
::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::AAAA-haaa ...looks like you have the audio aspect of the radio "wukkin" now ! What with that first
:::100 ohm surge resistor bad and that other 100 ohm unit invariably being the cathode resistor of the AF output tube.
:::Confirm that your new cathode bypass electrolytic was not damaged by the cath res being open and
:::> normal voltage then being put across it...but probably not.... if the pair failed at about the
:::same time.
:::
:::You might get the set operating and whack that AF out tube with a rubber covered screwdriver handle
:::to see if that output tube just might have any propensity for shorting. You can confirm by the pop
:::in the speaker or possibly see 'da flashover internally, unless the infamous internal silvering of loktal types precludes that.
:::
:::Now it looks like you might confirm the presence of B+ and their readings on the A-B highlighted areas.
:::It probably will be there and OK.
:::The next place to check for voltage would be across the mixer-osc sections grid resistor as shown at C
:::and do this with a high Z metering....VTVM,T-VM,FET-VM or DVM, so as to not load the hi Z 1st grid circuitry down.
:::
:::Checking your units tuning medium you will see that it is utilizing variable inductance tuning so check your tuning
:::knob and see that turning it ends up with the mechanics that moves the slugs within the ant and osc
:::coils, moving them in and out to produce the tuning change.
:::
:::If that works, then check the ant coil section ( marked up ) and the osc section which involves three
:::coils. Referencing the common connection closest to the schemas 47k osc grid resistor, the left coil can be checked in circuit, since it is in capacitive isolation. The two right (yellow) and
:::(blue- gray) coils would need the top leads lifted for a continuity check.
:::
:::
:::Hopefully that unit had its back cover and was stored where meeces couldn't get to those sets of coils or possibly, industrial strength urine might have acted upon them or they also might have been gnawed upon.
:::
:::
:::ZUJ'ing for feedback info......
:::
:::
:::Full working schema info:
:::
:::
:::
:::73's de Edd
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::::Edd:
::::Thanks for your reply on the schematic for the
::::1956 Continential auto radio. I am having
::::problems reading any postings... not sure if
::::the website is down or what?
::::
::::Could you email me at dclayton@nccn.net with
::::the Nostalgia page(s).
::::
::::I would really appreciate your help.
::::
::::Best regards,
::::
::::Don
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::It sounds like your Bee- Plus voltage is not even being loaded down at all …with that high of a reading being present…probably the AF output stage , since it’s the greatest current hog. Or you might have made a mis-wire in the “big change out” and left a circuit line either open or misconnected.
:::::
:::::For a quickie…. no frills test… you could just take a 1k resistor in hand and connect one end of a test lead to the electrolytic(s) negative ground buss and then take the other ends clip and connect to the resistor. Take the free end of the resistor and go over to the plate of the AF pre-amp tube and do a super fast scratch of its plate pin tube connection and confirm a pop in the speaker, if none move over to the plate pin of the output tube and do the same.
:::::
:::::If no pop occurs there, check out for B+ being present on those tubes and after that check your AF output transformer and speaker for continuity or interconnecting wiring integrity.
:::::
:::::Lastly, if you have not found the problem by now…..feed us the DC voltage readings found at the red boxed areas in the attached thumbnail schema.
:::::Also confirm the marked up resistors in the B+ supply.
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::73's de Edd
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
::::::I recapped it, checked the voltage across the 30mf cap, it is 168, connected the "audio out" on the signal generator to the center terminal of the volume control, there was no sound. I touched the same terminal with a screwdriver there was no sound. What should I do next?
:
:
:
:
:OH-TAY....After initially seeing your fo-tee-graff... the larger component ,of the two, would be the 1000pf tubular ceramic capacitor that you see in the schematic just above the osc tank coil that I have highlighted in yellow and have the red line coming up to it from the text box. the second smaller unit just looks like a 1/2 w carbon composition resistor, but the using of its body and the formation of a coil on it seems wierd at this low frequency....at VHF and UHF frequencies yes, where it could serve as a nice RF choke in that freq spectrum.....but at these low frequencies ...???.
:
:As for the mystery adjustments you have shown....look at the schema (physically just to the very left of "the" yellow osc coil) and you will see one of them as being the variable trimmer for AM high band tracking of the other marked up yellow antenna coil at the top of the schema.
:
:The other adjustment will be the variable trimmer for oscillator high band tracking. of the oscillator sectoin of the unit, (schematically shown, just to the left of your pulled 1000pf ceramic cap). The adjustable coil shown is for optimizing the low end of the AM band oscillator spread/tracking.
:
:
:BUT....not to worry..as I certainly think those parts can be reinstalled back where they were, and will be of no further concern.
:
:For, with your all important voltage readings supplied, we can see that your metering medium type utilized was adequate in not loading down that local oscillator circuit 1st grid circuitry, with a very healthy -8VDC reading being developed...with the tuning being set down at the low end of the AM band....570khz , to be precise...hi hi .
:
:If you then schematically compare the plate circuitry of the 14A7 and 14Q7 you will then see that each plate has an IF transformer primary in it and their B+ is derived from a common buss. The 14A7 is fine BUT on the 14Q7, with that reading........as also was just confirmed by Le radio docteur.......you must have an open...or ...HOPEFULLY a coil windings opened Litz wire to terminal lug connection within that transformer housing. Possibly, locatable with a magnifying glass / ohmmeter combo and repairable, and then, I think your unit will spring to life again
:
:
:In the interim...if you are the antsy type.... you could initiate a test /workaround by placing a 5-10k resistor across the IF transformer as a plate load resistor along with a ~50pf ceramic/sil mica RF coupling capacitor between the 14Q7 plate to 14A7 first grid circuitry for the interstage RF coupling. Then, if that works for you, go about investigating the innards of that IF transformer !
:
:
:
:73's de Edd
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
::Tex,
::
::With a minus voltage on the plate of the 14Q7 instead of around plus 80 volts indicates there is a problem with the first IF transformer primary winding. Take a resistance reading of the primary winding with the radio unpluged. If the primary winding is open there will not be any plus plate voltage.
::
::Radiodoc
::**********
::
::
:::I checked the 10mf electorlytic, it isn't damaged. I tapped the 50A5 with a screwdriver, nothing happened. The voltage from the negative side of the electrolytics to the plate of 14Q7 is minus 8V, to 14A7 it is 85v. I'm not sure if my voltmeters have high Z metering, one is a Knight 620 the other is a modern digital meter. That isn't the only thing that I'm confused about, the other is that I am lost as to where I am on the schematic. Where the antenna comes in there are two (what I beleive to be resistors). One is 1.5"long, it has a green dot on one end & a green dot in the middle. It has "0315 or D315 printed on the side, it has infinite resistance. The other is .5" long, has a wire wrapped around the outside, it has 1.3ohms resistance. They connect to a small ceramic square where the antenna connects. The square has 2 adjustment screws. There is another coil which also has an adjustment screw.
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::AAAA-haaa ...looks like you have the audio aspect of the radio "wukkin" now ! What with that first
::::100 ohm surge resistor bad and that other 100 ohm unit invariably being the cathode resistor of the AF output tube.
::::Confirm that your new cathode bypass electrolytic was not damaged by the cath res being open and
::::> normal voltage then being put across it...but probably not.... if the pair failed at about the
::::same time.
::::
::::You might get the set operating and whack that AF out tube with a rubber covered screwdriver handle
::::to see if that output tube just might have any propensity for shorting. You can confirm by the pop
::::in the speaker or possibly see 'da flashover internally, unless the infamous internal silvering of loktal types precludes that.
::::
::::Now it looks like you might confirm the presence of B+ and their readings on the A-B highlighted areas.
::::It probably will be there and OK.
::::The next place to check for voltage would be across the mixer-osc sections grid resistor as shown at C
::::and do this with a high Z metering....VTVM,T-VM,FET-VM or DVM, so as to not load the hi Z 1st grid circuitry down.
::::
::::Checking your units tuning medium you will see that it is utilizing variable inductance tuning so check your tuning
::::knob and see that turning it ends up with the mechanics that moves the slugs within the ant and osc
::::coils, moving them in and out to produce the tuning change.
::::
::::If that works, then check the ant coil section ( marked up ) and the osc section which involves three
::::coils. Referencing the common connection closest to the schemas 47k osc grid resistor, the left coil can be checked in circuit, since it is in capacitive isolation. The two right (yellow) and
::::(blue- gray) coils would need the top leads lifted for a continuity check.
::::
::::
::::Hopefully that unit had its back cover and was stored where meeces couldn't get to those sets of coils or possibly, industrial strength urine might have acted upon them or they also might have been gnawed upon.
::::
::::
::::ZUJ'ing for feedback info......
::::
::::
::::Full working schema info:
::::
::::
::::
::::73's de Edd
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::::Edd:
:::::Thanks for your reply on the schematic for the
:::::1956 Continential auto radio. I am having
:::::problems reading any postings... not sure if
:::::the website is down or what?
:::::
:::::Could you email me at dclayton@nccn.net with
:::::the Nostalgia page(s).
:::::
:::::I would really appreciate your help.
:::::
:::::Best regards,
:::::
:::::Don
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::It sounds like your Bee- Plus voltage is not even being loaded down at all …with that high of a reading being present…probably the AF output stage , since it’s the greatest current hog. Or you might have made a mis-wire in the “big change out” and left a circuit line either open or misconnected.
::::::
::::::For a quickie…. no frills test… you could just take a 1k resistor in hand and connect one end of a test lead to the electrolytic(s) negative ground buss and then take the other ends clip and connect to the resistor. Take the free end of the resistor and go over to the plate of the AF pre-amp tube and do a super fast scratch of its plate pin tube connection and confirm a pop in the speaker, if none move over to the plate pin of the output tube and do the same.
::::::
::::::If no pop occurs there, check out for B+ being present on those tubes and after that check your AF output transformer and speaker for continuity or interconnecting wiring integrity.
::::::
::::::Lastly, if you have not found the problem by now…..feed us the DC voltage readings found at the red boxed areas in the attached thumbnail schema.
::::::Also confirm the marked up resistors in the B+ supply.
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::73's de Edd
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
:::::::I recapped it, checked the voltage across the 30mf cap, it is 168, connected the "audio out" on the signal generator to the center terminal of the volume control, there was no sound. I touched the same terminal with a screwdriver there was no sound. What should I do next?
:One of the coils in the I.F. transformer is 22 ohms, the other coil has one of the wires broken off flush with the coil.
::
::
::
::
::OH-TAY....After initially seeing your fo-tee-graff... the larger component ,of the two, would be the 1000pf tubular ceramic capacitor that you see in the schematic just above the osc tank coil that I have highlighted in yellow and have the red line coming up to it from the text box. the second smaller unit just looks like a 1/2 w carbon composition resistor, but the using of its body and the formation of a coil on it seems wierd at this low frequency....at VHF and UHF frequencies yes, where it could serve as a nice RF choke in that freq spectrum.....but at these low frequencies ...???.
::
::As for the mystery adjustments you have shown....look at the schema (physically just to the very left of "the" yellow osc coil) and you will see one of them as being the variable trimmer for AM high band tracking of the other marked up yellow antenna coil at the top of the schema.
::
::The other adjustment will be the variable trimmer for oscillator high band tracking. of the oscillator sectoin of the unit, (schematically shown, just to the left of your pulled 1000pf ceramic cap). The adjustable coil shown is for optimizing the low end of the AM band oscillator spread/tracking.
::
::
::BUT....not to worry..as I certainly think those parts can be reinstalled back where they were, and will be of no further concern.
::
::For, with your all important voltage readings supplied, we can see that your metering medium type utilized was adequate in not loading down that local oscillator circuit 1st grid circuitry, with a very healthy -8VDC reading being developed...with the tuning being set down at the low end of the AM band....570khz , to be precise...hi hi .
::
::If you then schematically compare the plate circuitry of the 14A7 and 14Q7 you will then see that each plate has an IF transformer primary in it and their B+ is derived from a common buss. The 14A7 is fine BUT on the 14Q7, with that reading........as also was just confirmed by Le radio docteur.......you must have an open...or ...HOPEFULLY a coil windings opened Litz wire to terminal lug connection within that transformer housing. Possibly, locatable with a magnifying glass / ohmmeter combo and repairable, and then, I think your unit will spring to life again
::
::
::In the interim...if you are the antsy type.... you could initiate a test /workaround by placing a 5-10k resistor across the IF transformer as a plate load resistor along with a ~50pf ceramic/sil mica RF coupling capacitor between the 14Q7 plate to 14A7 first grid circuitry for the interstage RF coupling. Then, if that works for you, go about investigating the innards of that IF transformer !
::
::
::
::73's de Edd
::
::
::
::
::
::
::
:::Tex,
:::
:::With a minus voltage on the plate of the 14Q7 instead of around plus 80 volts indicates there is a problem with the first IF transformer primary winding. Take a resistance reading of the primary winding with the radio unpluged. If the primary winding is open there will not be any plus plate voltage.
:::
:::Radiodoc
:::**********
:::
:::
::::I checked the 10mf electorlytic, it isn't damaged. I tapped the 50A5 with a screwdriver, nothing happened. The voltage from the negative side of the electrolytics to the plate of 14Q7 is minus 8V, to 14A7 it is 85v. I'm not sure if my voltmeters have high Z metering, one is a Knight 620 the other is a modern digital meter. That isn't the only thing that I'm confused about, the other is that I am lost as to where I am on the schematic. Where the antenna comes in there are two (what I beleive to be resistors). One is 1.5"long, it has a green dot on one end & a green dot in the middle. It has "0315 or D315 printed on the side, it has infinite resistance. The other is .5" long, has a wire wrapped around the outside, it has 1.3ohms resistance. They connect to a small ceramic square where the antenna connects. The square has 2 adjustment screws. There is another coil which also has an adjustment screw.
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::AAAA-haaa ...looks like you have the audio aspect of the radio "wukkin" now ! What with that first
:::::100 ohm surge resistor bad and that other 100 ohm unit invariably being the cathode resistor of the AF output tube.
:::::Confirm that your new cathode bypass electrolytic was not damaged by the cath res being open and
:::::> normal voltage then being put across it...but probably not.... if the pair failed at about the
:::::same time.
:::::
:::::You might get the set operating and whack that AF out tube with a rubber covered screwdriver handle
:::::to see if that output tube just might have any propensity for shorting. You can confirm by the pop
:::::in the speaker or possibly see 'da flashover internally, unless the infamous internal silvering of loktal types precludes that.
:::::
:::::Now it looks like you might confirm the presence of B+ and their readings on the A-B highlighted areas.
:::::It probably will be there and OK.
:::::The next place to check for voltage would be across the mixer-osc sections grid resistor as shown at C
:::::and do this with a high Z metering....VTVM,T-VM,FET-VM or DVM, so as to not load the hi Z 1st grid circuitry down.
:::::
:::::Checking your units tuning medium you will see that it is utilizing variable inductance tuning so check your tuning
:::::knob and see that turning it ends up with the mechanics that moves the slugs within the ant and osc
:::::coils, moving them in and out to produce the tuning change.
:::::
:::::If that works, then check the ant coil section ( marked up ) and the osc section which involves three
:::::coils. Referencing the common connection closest to the schemas 47k osc grid resistor, the left coil can be checked in circuit, since it is in capacitive isolation. The two right (yellow) and
:::::(blue- gray) coils would need the top leads lifted for a continuity check.
:::::
:::::
:::::Hopefully that unit had its back cover and was stored where meeces couldn't get to those sets of coils or possibly, industrial strength urine might have acted upon them or they also might have been gnawed upon.
:::::
:::::
:::::ZUJ'ing for feedback info......
:::::
:::::
:::::Full working schema info:
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::73's de Edd
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::::Edd:
::::::Thanks for your reply on the schematic for the
::::::1956 Continential auto radio. I am having
::::::problems reading any postings... not sure if
::::::the website is down or what?
::::::
::::::Could you email me at dclayton@nccn.net with
::::::the Nostalgia page(s).
::::::
::::::I would really appreciate your help.
::::::
::::::Best regards,
::::::
::::::Don
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::It sounds like your Bee- Plus voltage is not even being loaded down at all …with that high of a reading being present…probably the AF output stage , since it’s the greatest current hog. Or you might have made a mis-wire in the “big change out” and left a circuit line either open or misconnected.
:::::::
:::::::For a quickie…. no frills test… you could just take a 1k resistor in hand and connect one end of a test lead to the electrolytic(s) negative ground buss and then take the other ends clip and connect to the resistor. Take the free end of the resistor and go over to the plate of the AF pre-amp tube and do a super fast scratch of its plate pin tube connection and confirm a pop in the speaker, if none move over to the plate pin of the output tube and do the same.
:::::::
:::::::If no pop occurs there, check out for B+ being present on those tubes and after that check your AF output transformer and speaker for continuity or interconnecting wiring integrity.
:::::::
:::::::Lastly, if you have not found the problem by now…..feed us the DC voltage readings found at the red boxed areas in the attached thumbnail schema.
:::::::Also confirm the marked up resistors in the B+ supply.
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::73's de Edd
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
::::::::I recapped it, checked the voltage across the 30mf cap, it is 168, connected the "audio out" on the signal generator to the center terminal of the volume control, there was no sound. I touched the same terminal with a screwdriver there was no sound. What should I do next?
Sir Donald:
Looks like that by that confirmation by Sir Meade, that I can bundle up and route towards you,
about'lebenteen giggling bits of info on that unit.
I also have found access and repetitive / sequential readings of posts to be somewhat problematic
lately.
Either you have to keep using the readers top left back up bar or else refresh at the top of the
browser or refresh by the utilization of the pages [Forums] logo at the top of the page.
I have both Explorer and "Godzilla" with the Explorer usually never giving refresh problems when
attuned to this forum, but lately,seems that both give problems unless one of those three
aforementioned workarounds are used.
73's de Edd
::Edd:
:Thanks for your reply on the schematic for the
:1956 Continential auto radio. I am having
:problems reading any postings... not sure if
:the website is down or what?
:
:Could you email me at dclayton@nccn.net with
:the Nostalgia page(s).
:
:I would really appreciate your help.
:
:Best regards,
:
:Don
::
::
::
::
::It sounds like your Bee- Plus voltage is not even being loaded down at all …with that high of a reading being present…probably the AF output stage , since it’s the greatest current hog. Or you might have made a mis-wire in the “big change out” and left a circuit line either open or misconnected.
::
::For a quickie…. no frills test… you could just take a 1k resistor in hand and connect one end of a test lead to the electrolytic(s) negative ground buss and then take the other ends clip and connect to the resistor. Take the free end of the resistor and go over to the plate of the AF pre-amp tube and do a super fast scratch of its plate pin tube connection and confirm a pop in the speaker, if none move over to the plate pin of the output tube and do the same.
::
::If no pop occurs there, check out for B+ being present on those tubes and after that check your AF output transformer and speaker for continuity or interconnecting wiring integrity.
::
::Lastly, if you have not found the problem by now…..feed us the DC voltage readings found at the red boxed areas in the attached thumbnail schema.
::Also confirm the marked up resistors in the B+ supply.
::
::
::
::
::
::73's de Edd
::
::
::
::
::
::
:::I recapped it, checked the voltage across the 30mf cap, it is 168, connected the "audio out" on the signal generator to the center terminal of the volume control, there was no sound. I touched the same terminal with a screwdriver there was no sound. What should I do next?
I am still having problems reading any October pages
but Steve relayed your response.
I an sorry to have to use this old thread to reach
you.
I just want to tune up the radio and check some
voltages. I bought a solid state vibrator from
Antique in Arizona and it works but the B+ is about
8% lower than the mechanical original one. So I am
not sure that the solid-state one needs all of the
original components (e.g., two 180 Ohm resistors from
each vibrator contact to ground? Any help would be
appriciated. MAG said the Sam's number is 335-4.
Thanks very much.
Best regards,
Don Clayton
W6ZS
:
:
:
:
:It sounds like your Bee- Plus voltage is not even being loaded down at all …with that high of a reading being present…probably the AF output stage , since it’s the greatest current hog. Or you might have made a mis-wire in the “big change out” and left a circuit line either open or misconnected.
:
:For a quickie…. no frills test… you could just take a 1k resistor in hand and connect one end of a test lead to the electrolytic(s) negative ground buss and then take the other ends clip and connect to the resistor. Take the free end of the resistor and go over to the plate of the AF pre-amp tube and do a super fast scratch of its plate pin tube connection and confirm a pop in the speaker, if none move over to the plate pin of the output tube and do the same.
:
:If no pop occurs there, check out for B+ being present on those tubes and after that check your AF output transformer and speaker for continuity or interconnecting wiring integrity.
:
:Lastly, if you have not found the problem by now…..feed us the DC voltage readings found at the red boxed areas in the attached thumbnail schema.
:Also confirm the marked up resistors in the B+ supply.
:
:
:
:
:
:73's de Edd
:
:
:
:
:
:
::I recapped it, checked the voltage across the 30mf cap, it is 168, connected the "audio out" on the signal generator to the center terminal of the volume control, there was no sound. I touched the same terminal with a screwdriver there was no sound. What should I do next?