Zenith 6S532 Looking for parts...Ideas for Repairing...

10/21/2007 8:51:31 AMBob

http://www.enginova.com/zenith_6s532.htm

Above is a Doug Criner project (I believe)
I am in search of an On/Off/Tuning Control (potentiometer ?) Someone has rewired the radio to
have the On Off switch connected to a toggle switch
on the side of the unit. Maybe because of unavailability or cost considerations?? The wire connections on back of the control have nothing connected to them but it does control the dial cord ok. Does anyone know where could I find a replacement control? Also I need the right side 2-part knob as the one I have has unusual damage like someone tried to hack it with a knife or looks melted? Since I am
not an expert at this...I am wondering if the on/off
control part of the unit could be repaired? How would I test this to see that it actually is bad and that someone added the toggle switch for other than repair
reasons? Should I just hook it back up and see if it works? OR is there another easier way to test it like maybe testing for continuity? I am waiting for electrolytic capacitors to arrive before I can actually test it "live". I also have to put the push button assembly back into the chassis because I removed it to more easily access caps. Ramble ramble ramble.. any comments appreciate :O) thanks, Bob

10/21/2007 12:58:58 PMNorm Leal

Hi Bob

Using an ohm meter check continuity of the original on/off switch. On should have a reading. Off no meter reading.

You can buy replacement switches attached to volume controls. At one time parts were available so the switch alone could be replaced.

Here are some places that might have what you need: AES, www.tubesandmore.com , Radio Daze, www.radiodaze.com , PTOP, www.oldradioparts.com .

http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel/200/M0025200.pdf

Norm

:http://www.enginova.com/zenith_6s532.htm
:
:Above is a Doug Criner project (I believe)
:I am in search of an On/Off/Tuning Control (potentiometer ?) Someone has rewired the radio to
:have the On Off switch connected to a toggle switch
:on the side of the unit. Maybe because of unavailability or cost considerations?? The wire connections on back of the control have nothing connected to them but it does control the dial cord ok. Does anyone know where could I find a replacement control? Also I need the right side 2-part knob as the one I have has unusual damage like someone tried to hack it with a knife or looks melted? Since I am
:not an expert at this...I am wondering if the on/off
:control part of the unit could be repaired? How would I test this to see that it actually is bad and that someone added the toggle switch for other than repair
:reasons? Should I just hook it back up and see if it works? OR is there another easier way to test it like maybe testing for continuity? I am waiting for electrolytic capacitors to arrive before I can actually test it "live". I also have to put the push button assembly back into the chassis because I removed it to more easily access caps. Ramble ramble ramble.. any comments appreciate :O) thanks, Bob

10/21/2007 2:47:24 PMJGJ

Bob,
That multifunction knob assembly looks pretty complicated - finding a pwr switch probably will not be easy and the volume control (R10) appears to be a tapped potentiometer - again, a hard to find item. You might want to leave it as-is... Some people consider changes made by past users (if not dangerous)as part of the radio's character... perhaps telling a story. Besides, then you'd have to worry about filling in that hole in the cabinet where the toggle switch was.

10/21/2007 2:50:23 PMJGJ

:Bob,
:That multifunction knob assembly looks pretty complicated - finding a pwr switch probably will not be easy and the volume control (R10) appears to be a tapped potentiometer - again, a hard to find item. You might want to leave it as-is... Some people consider changes made by past users (if not dangerous)as part of the radio's character... perhaps telling a story. Besides, then you'd have to worry about filling in that hole in the cabinet where the toggle switch was.

PS- this raises a question I've had for some time now - is there a good work-around for replacing a tapped pot with one that is not tapped???

10/21/2007 4:00:57 PMwalt

Try www.alanjesperson.com and look through his catalog of Zenith stuff,you could inquire about unlisted items. About adding a tap or tapering or ganging a pot by adding external resistances,it could be done with a lot of math if you knew what specs you wanted to end up with and I've had to 'make' a pot work in situations where the original was unrepairable. Be careful not to clean a pot with a solvent harsh enough to harm it. If it says 'safe for use on plastic',they may be lying. I've found out the hard way about that!

10/21/2007 4:48:50 PMDoug Criner

Bob, I went and looked at my set to refresh my recollection about this control.

The power/volume and the tuning are on concetric shafts. The power/volume is on the inner shaft, and the tuning is on the outer shaft. This is a control that was, I believe, unique to Zeniths of this vintage.

Does the volume control work? You didn't mention that.

I haven't encountered a source for new replacements. I think you will want the whole deal - both controls. PTOP is a possibility, but there is the $20 minimum order.

Another option is try to disect the original control and see if you can somehow fix it - maybe my marrying it with just a replacement power switch that you canibalize from a modern control?

If you have the patience, you could temporarily leave the toggle switch, and wait for a junker to show up on eBay or at a swap meet. There were quite a few pre-war Zenith models, including consoles, that had these concentric controls.
Doug

:http://www.enginova.com/zenith_6s532.htm
:
:Above is a Doug Criner project (I believe)
:I am in search of an On/Off/Tuning Control (potentiometer ?) Someone has rewired the radio to
:have the On Off switch connected to a toggle switch
:on the side of the unit. Maybe because of unavailability or cost considerations?? The wire connections on back of the control have nothing connected to them but it does control the dial cord ok. Does anyone know where could I find a replacement control? Also I need the right side 2-part knob as the one I have has unusual damage like someone tried to hack it with a knife or looks melted? Since I am
:not an expert at this...I am wondering if the on/off
:control part of the unit could be repaired? How would I test this to see that it actually is bad and that someone added the toggle switch for other than repair
:reasons? Should I just hook it back up and see if it works? OR is there another easier way to test it like maybe testing for continuity? I am waiting for electrolytic capacitors to arrive before I can actually test it "live". I also have to put the push button assembly back into the chassis because I removed it to more easily access caps. Ramble ramble ramble.. any comments appreciate :O) thanks, Bob

10/21/2007 5:08:01 PMJGJ

Doug said it well... I have radios I have held on to for a while waiting for parts and finally find them at a swap meet or junk shop. Not much beats finding the right parts to fix up an old set and then fixing it - I believe that is one of the many elements to the attraction of radio collecting.

10/21/2007 5:53:37 PMBpb

I'm not sure if the volume control works for sure.
I think it will. I tried to test it and it jumps all around on the meter but does come close to its 2 meg value. I am waiting for electrolytics to arrive that I ordered. I have to rewire the toggle switch, put a new cord on it and get the push button assy. back into it. I replaced a lot of wires that were crumbling and have a few more to do yet. So this is
very much a work in progress. I "have" been watching eBay for the needed parts and even another set like it. I got this set for less than $10 so I can afford to put a little more into it. Other than the addl models listed on the Riders 6S532 schematic do you know of any specific models that uses
this type of control? All I have is patience when it comes to to these old radios...I have many waiting in the wings to start on. I will keep working on it it and see where I end up. Maybe I will open up the switch and take a look too. It does not look like it has been messed with yet. I will also take a look at
www.alanjesperson.com .
THanks, Bob

10/21/2007 8:39:02 PMMarv Nuce

Bob,
PTOP has quite a selection of old tapped pots w/wo switches and switch kits, but not always the specific p/n you have. I suggest you measure the physical constraints, and then make the appropriate selection from his long list. As for creating the tapped pot externally, I did it with fixed resistors, but there are those who disagree with the outcome, and it did require a bit of math. The final was within 5% of the original spec. The other method is to create a tap from a pot of the right value. This cam be accomplished with a small opening in the case, a thin strip of copper/brass and conductive epoxy (silver filled I think) If you attempt the latter method, assure the strip is not attached to the carbon element in the circular wiper path. If the original is quite unique, finding a tapped pot of the correct value with a similar carbon element/wiper that can be swapped into the old case. I did this with a modern stereo phono cartridge into the original pot metal case of yesteryear.

marv

:I'm not sure if the volume control works for sure.
:I think it will. I tried to test it and it jumps all around on the meter but does come close to its 2 meg value. I am waiting for electrolytics to arrive that I ordered. I have to rewire the toggle switch, put a new cord on it and get the push button assy. back into it. I replaced a lot of wires that were crumbling and have a few more to do yet. So this is
:very much a work in progress. I "have" been watching eBay for the needed parts and even another set like it. I got this set for less than $10 so I can afford to put a little more into it. Other than the addl models listed on the Riders 6S532 schematic do you know of any specific models that uses
:this type of control? All I have is patience when it comes to to these old radios...I have many waiting in the wings to start on. I will keep working on it it and see where I end up. Maybe I will open up the switch and take a look too. It does not look like it has been messed with yet. I will also take a look at
:www.alanjesperson.com .
:THanks, Bob

10/21/2007 9:48:26 PMBob

Marv,
About a year ago I bought an IRC Volume Control Kit in a Neat looking blue and yellow box with NOS Potentionmeters and in one drawer there
are two different A.C. Switchs For Volume Control. One is a number 42 with 4 lugs on it and the other is a Number 41 with two lugs like the one in my radio now.
It looks like it could fit to me, but what do I know? Could I be so lucky to have that correct replacement part (NOS Even) under my nose? I do not know how to tell for sure as I have never had to take one of these apart before. It even has the little folded up instruction sheet in the box too. I took the little insulation cover off the old one and it has the same 3A 125V 1A250 Volt markings that the NOS IRC one has. The one in the radio is a CRL brand. The only thing I wonder about... There is a number 40 on the original insulator cover. My luck.. I have a #41 and a #42 but I need a #40? It looks like Northern Antique Radio may have my knob after studying his list of parts tool. Bob

10/21/2007 10:16:32 PMMarv Nuce

Bob,
Although they may look alike, there may be subtle differences in the switching mechanism as well as the trip mechanism on the shaft. Most just have bend over tabs to install on the pot. Some internal to the pot and others external. I just dissassembled a combo Tone/Volume/power switch ass'y from a Delco Corvette radio. Except for the very front, all the bend-over tabs were inside, and of course the faulty (a double pole single throw 4 lugs)) sw was the last. There may be some standardization that I'm not aware of, but best to use the recommended sw for its companion pot. Another post mentioned it, but recommend no cleaning/wiping action with solvent on the carbon element. I ruined a pot (went up by about 30%) as resistive particles were wiped away from the element. Its best to clean/lubricate with appropriate spray solution.

:Marv,

:About a year ago I bought an IRC Volume Control Kit in a Neat looking blue and yellow box with NOS Potentionmeters and in one drawer there
:are two different A.C. Switchs For Volume Control. One is a number 42 with 4 lugs on it and the other is a Number 41 with two lugs like the one in my radio now.
:It looks like it could fit to me, but what do I know? Could I be so lucky to have that correct replacement part (NOS Even) under my nose? I do not know how to tell for sure as I have never had to take one of these apart before. It even has the little folded up instruction sheet in the box too. I took the little insulation cover off the old one and it has the same 3A 125V 1A250 Volt markings that the NOS IRC one has. The one in the radio is a CRL brand. The only thing I wonder about... There is a number 40 on the original insulator cover. My luck.. I have a #41 and a #42 but I need a #40? It looks like Northern Antique Radio may have my knob after studying his list of parts tool. Bob

10/21/2007 10:26:33 PMBob

I guess I will have to remove the one on it and see if it matches. Can't do any harm I guess since it is already broke. The NOS has three bend over tabs on two sides. I don't know if matches up with the old one or not.
The switching mechanism in the IRC NOS has a sort of a Y shaped catch that snaps back and forth. IT has
41 SPST IRC stamped on the shiny metal part. I will see what kind of trouble I can get into here :O)
Bob

:Bob,
:Although they may look alike, there may be subtle differences in the switching mechanism as well as the trip mechanism on the shaft. Most just have bend over tabs to install on the pot. Some internal to the pot and others external. I just dissassembled a combo Tone/Volume/power switch ass'y from a Delco Corvette radio. Except for the very front, all the bend-over tabs were inside, and of course the faulty (a double pole single throw 4 lugs)) sw was the last. There may be some standardization that I'm not aware of, but best to use the recommended sw for its companion pot. Another post mentioned it, but recommend no cleaning/wiping action with solvent on the carbon element. I ruined a pot (went up by about 30%) as resistive particles were wiped away from the element. Its best to clean/lubricate with appropriate spray solution.
:
::Marv,
:
:
::About a year ago I bought an IRC Volume Control Kit in a Neat looking blue and yellow box with NOS Potentionmeters and in one drawer there
::are two different A.C. Switchs For Volume Control. One is a number 42 with 4 lugs on it and the other is a Number 41 with two lugs like the one in my radio now.
::It looks like it could fit to me, but what do I know? Could I be so lucky to have that correct replacement part (NOS Even) under my nose? I do not know how to tell for sure as I have never had to take one of these apart before. It even has the little folded up instruction sheet in the box too. I took the little insulation cover off the old one and it has the same 3A 125V 1A250 Volt markings that the NOS IRC one has. The one in the radio is a CRL brand. The only thing I wonder about... There is a number 40 on the original insulator cover. My luck.. I have a #41 and a #42 but I need a #40? It looks like Northern Antique Radio may have my knob after studying his list of parts tool. Bob

10/21/2007 11:59:30 PMBob

Marv,
I took off the back end (switch) off and did some continuity checks.
Everything seemed to look ok inside but The lugs are a little loose.
Doing the continuityu check sometimes I had continuity and sometimes I did not. If I bent the lug just right then I would have it. It looked too "involved" for me to take the "works" out and see underneath to see why it is losing contact. So I pushed the lug down some and it seems to have constant contact. I mixed a little JB Weld and I am trying to hold it in the spot where it seems to have good contact. There were two tiny sliver chips out of the bakelite that I removed so that could have added to the problem. We shall see if
this works when the good old JB sets up. If so then it
will be a rather simple fix...(famous last words?)
Bob

:Bob,
:Although they may look alike, there may be subtle differences in the switching mechanism as well as the trip mechanism on the shaft. Most just have bend over tabs to install on the pot. Some internal to the pot and others external. I just dissassembled a combo Tone/Volume/power switch ass'y from a Delco Corvette radio. Except for the very front, all the bend-over tabs were inside, and of course the faulty (a double pole single throw 4 lugs)) sw was the last. There may be some standardization that I'm not aware of, but best to use the recommended sw for its companion pot. Another post mentioned it, but recommend no cleaning/wiping action with solvent on the carbon element. I ruined a pot (went up by about 30%) as resistive particles were wiped away from the element. Its best to clean/lubricate with appropriate spray solution.
:
::Marv,
:
:
::About a year ago I bought an IRC Volume Control Kit in a Neat looking blue and yellow box with NOS Potentionmeters and in one drawer there
::are two different A.C. Switchs For Volume Control. One is a number 42 with 4 lugs on it and the other is a Number 41 with two lugs like the one in my radio now.
::It looks like it could fit to me, but what do I know? Could I be so lucky to have that correct replacement part (NOS Even) under my nose? I do not know how to tell for sure as I have never had to take one of these apart before. It even has the little folded up instruction sheet in the box too. I took the little insulation cover off the old one and it has the same 3A 125V 1A250 Volt markings that the NOS IRC one has. The one in the radio is a CRL brand. The only thing I wonder about... There is a number 40 on the original insulator cover. My luck.. I have a #41 and a #42 but I need a #40? It looks like Northern Antique Radio may have my knob after studying his list of parts tool. Bob

10/22/2007 12:42:30 AMMarv Nuce

Bob,
I was able to rejuvenate the car radio switch by applying silicon spray inside, then blowing it out with an air gun, and did this several times before success. Just contamination from being old and needing lubricant I guess. A simple twist on the lugs may seat them in their proper place and eliminate the looseness.

marv

:Marv,
:I took off the back end (switch) off and did some continuity checks.
:Everything seemed to look ok inside but The lugs are a little loose.
:Doing the continuityu check sometimes I had continuity and sometimes I did not. If I bent the lug just right then I would have it. It looked too "involved" for me to take the "works" out and see underneath to see why it is losing contact. So I pushed the lug down some and it seems to have constant contact. I mixed a little JB Weld and I am trying to hold it in the spot where it seems to have good contact. There were two tiny sliver chips out of the bakelite that I removed so that could have added to the problem. We shall see if
:this works when the good old JB sets up. If so then it
:will be a rather simple fix...(famous last words?)
:Bob
:
:
:
:
::Bob,
::Although they may look alike, there may be subtle differences in the switching mechanism as well as the trip mechanism on the shaft. Most just have bend over tabs to install on the pot. Some internal to the pot and others external. I just dissassembled a combo Tone/Volume/power switch ass'y from a Delco Corvette radio. Except for the very front, all the bend-over tabs were inside, and of course the faulty (a double pole single throw 4 lugs)) sw was the last. There may be some standardization that I'm not aware of, but best to use the recommended sw for its companion pot. Another post mentioned it, but recommend no cleaning/wiping action with solvent on the carbon element. I ruined a pot (went up by about 30%) as resistive particles were wiped away from the element. Its best to clean/lubricate with appropriate spray solution.
::
:::Marv,
::
::
:::About a year ago I bought an IRC Volume Control Kit in a Neat looking blue and yellow box with NOS Potentionmeters and in one drawer there
:::are two different A.C. Switchs For Volume Control. One is a number 42 with 4 lugs on it and the other is a Number 41 with two lugs like the one in my radio now.
:::It looks like it could fit to me, but what do I know? Could I be so lucky to have that correct replacement part (NOS Even) under my nose? I do not know how to tell for sure as I have never had to take one of these apart before. It even has the little folded up instruction sheet in the box too. I took the little insulation cover off the old one and it has the same 3A 125V 1A250 Volt markings that the NOS IRC one has. The one in the radio is a CRL brand. The only thing I wonder about... There is a number 40 on the original insulator cover. My luck.. I have a #41 and a #42 but I need a #40? It looks like Northern Antique Radio may have my knob after studying his list of parts tool. Bob

10/22/2007 12:48:03 AMBob

Yeah I did clean the inside and did get some dirty stuff on a q tip and flush sprayed it with some contact cleaner stuff but that did not fix the problem. I think it just has a loose lug. Anyway
that is what I am hoping. If the JB Weld dries good an hard with contact to lug then I think that should take care of the problem. Then I can fill in the hole in the cabinet. That should be interesting. Now
when I hook it back up to the switch does it make any
difference which wire goes to which lug? I am guessing that it does not.
Bob

:Bob,
:I was able to rejuvenate the car radio switch by applying silicon spray inside, then blowing it out with an air gun, and did this several times before success. Just contamination from being old and needing lubricant I guess. A simple twist on the lugs may seat them in their proper place and eliminate the looseness.
:
:marv
:
::Marv,
::I took off the back end (switch) off and did some continuity checks.
::Everything seemed to look ok inside but The lugs are a little loose.
::Doing the continuityu check sometimes I had continuity and sometimes I did not. If I bent the lug just right then I would have it. It looked too "involved" for me to take the "works" out and see underneath to see why it is losing contact. So I pushed the lug down some and it seems to have constant contact. I mixed a little JB Weld and I am trying to hold it in the spot where it seems to have good contact. There were two tiny sliver chips out of the bakelite that I removed so that could have added to the problem. We shall see if
::this works when the good old JB sets up. If so then it
::will be a rather simple fix...(famous last words?)
::Bob
::
::
::
::
:::Bob,
:::Although they may look alike, there may be subtle differences in the switching mechanism as well as the trip mechanism on the shaft. Most just have bend over tabs to install on the pot. Some internal to the pot and others external. I just dissassembled a combo Tone/Volume/power switch ass'y from a Delco Corvette radio. Except for the very front, all the bend-over tabs were inside, and of course the faulty (a double pole single throw 4 lugs)) sw was the last. There may be some standardization that I'm not aware of, but best to use the recommended sw for its companion pot. Another post mentioned it, but recommend no cleaning/wiping action with solvent on the carbon element. I ruined a pot (went up by about 30%) as resistive particles were wiped away from the element. Its best to clean/lubricate with appropriate spray solution.
:::
::::Marv,
:::
:::
::::About a year ago I bought an IRC Volume Control Kit in a Neat looking blue and yellow box with NOS Potentionmeters and in one drawer there
::::are two different A.C. Switchs For Volume Control. One is a number 42 with 4 lugs on it and the other is a Number 41 with two lugs like the one in my radio now.
::::It looks like it could fit to me, but what do I know? Could I be so lucky to have that correct replacement part (NOS Even) under my nose? I do not know how to tell for sure as I have never had to take one of these apart before. It even has the little folded up instruction sheet in the box too. I took the little insulation cover off the old one and it has the same 3A 125V 1A250 Volt markings that the NOS IRC one has. The one in the radio is a CRL brand. The only thing I wonder about... There is a number 40 on the original insulator cover. My luck.. I have a #41 and a #42 but I need a #40? It looks like Northern Antique Radio may have my knob after studying his list of parts tool. Bob

10/22/2007 12:31:16 PMMarv Nuce

Bob,
You're right, does not make a difference. It simply switches one side of the incoming line. Just assure that the working toggle sw does the same.

marv

:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:Yeah I did clean the inside and did get some dirty stuff on a q tip and flush sprayed it with some contact cleaner stuff but that did not fix the problem. I think it just has a loose lug. Anyway
:that is what I am hoping. If the JB Weld dries good an hard with contact to lug then I think that should take care of the problem. Then I can fill in the hole in the cabinet. That should be interesting. Now
:when I hook it back up to the switch does it make any
:difference which wire goes to which lug? I am guessing that it does not.
:Bob
:
:
:
:
::Bob,
::I was able to rejuvenate the car radio switch by applying silicon spray inside, then blowing it out with an air gun, and did this several times before success. Just contamination from being old and needing lubricant I guess. A simple twist on the lugs may seat them in their proper place and eliminate the looseness.
::
::marv
::
:::Marv,
:::I took off the back end (switch) off and did some continuity checks.
:::Everything seemed to look ok inside but The lugs are a little loose.
:::Doing the continuityu check sometimes I had continuity and sometimes I did not. If I bent the lug just right then I would have it. It looked too "involved" for me to take the "works" out and see underneath to see why it is losing contact. So I pushed the lug down some and it seems to have constant contact. I mixed a little JB Weld and I am trying to hold it in the spot where it seems to have good contact. There were two tiny sliver chips out of the bakelite that I removed so that could have added to the problem. We shall see if
:::this works when the good old JB sets up. If so then it
:::will be a rather simple fix...(famous last words?)
:::Bob
:::
:::
:::
:::
::::Bob,
::::Although they may look alike, there may be subtle differences in the switching mechanism as well as the trip mechanism on the shaft. Most just have bend over tabs to install on the pot. Some internal to the pot and others external. I just dissassembled a combo Tone/Volume/power switch ass'y from a Delco Corvette radio. Except for the very front, all the bend-over tabs were inside, and of course the faulty (a double pole single throw 4 lugs)) sw was the last. There may be some standardization that I'm not aware of, but best to use the recommended sw for its companion pot. Another post mentioned it, but recommend no cleaning/wiping action with solvent on the carbon element. I ruined a pot (went up by about 30%) as resistive particles were wiped away from the element. Its best to clean/lubricate with appropriate spray solution.
::::
:::::Marv,
::::
::::
:::::About a year ago I bought an IRC Volume Control Kit in a Neat looking blue and yellow box with NOS Potentionmeters and in one drawer there
:::::are two different A.C. Switchs For Volume Control. One is a number 42 with 4 lugs on it and the other is a Number 41 with two lugs like the one in my radio now.
:::::It looks like it could fit to me, but what do I know? Could I be so lucky to have that correct replacement part (NOS Even) under my nose? I do not know how to tell for sure as I have never had to take one of these apart before. It even has the little folded up instruction sheet in the box too. I took the little insulation cover off the old one and it has the same 3A 125V 1A250 Volt markings that the NOS IRC one has. The one in the radio is a CRL brand. The only thing I wonder about... There is a number 40 on the original insulator cover. My luck.. I have a #41 and a #42 but I need a #40? It looks like Northern Antique Radio may have my knob after studying his list of parts tool. Bob