Google "wrinkle finish"
marv
:I electronically restored a AK mod 42 awhile back.The orig wrinkle-finish on the metal cab is almost all gone. Radio chassis works great now, but cabinet needs a new brown "wrinkle-finish" paint job. Does anyone know a good source to purchase dark brown wrinkle-finish spray paint (ready to use cans) anymore? Eastwood products used to sell the brown color thru AES, but no longer make it. Does any other mfgr make this anymore? Thanks, Randal
Most brown paint that you buy isn't dark enough.
Here is what I do. Buy the darkest brown, water based, flat paint. Add "lamp black" and a little water to get the right color. Go over the entire cabinet with this paint like using dye. Do not sand off rust unless it's flaking off. Rust gives a texture similar to the original finish.
This will give you a dull dark brown finish. Spray with Krylon Crystal Clear until you have just enough gloss. The cabinet will look almost like new.
Norm
:Randal,
:Google "wrinkle finish"
:
:marv
:
::I electronically restored a AK mod 42 awhile back.The orig wrinkle-finish on the metal cab is almost all gone. Radio chassis works great now, but cabinet needs a new brown "wrinkle-finish" paint job. Does anyone know a good source to purchase dark brown wrinkle-finish spray paint (ready to use cans) anymore? Eastwood products used to sell the brown color thru AES, but no longer make it. Does any other mfgr make this anymore? Thanks, Randal
I've used variations of Morm's method on a couple of AK sets and E series speakers with good results...including a 42. On a 35 I was faced with bare metal. Ended up getting a dirty cream colored spray can of texture-type paint from the local big box craft store; then, after it dried, "staining" it with Norm's mixture. Took a couple of attempts to get a feel for the ingredients, and how they set up, but it looked pretty good in the end. The biggest problem I found with the texture paint, which is a version of wrinkle finish I suppose, is that it had to be applied to a flat, level surface. Otherwise, it would tend to "flow" with gravity. Ended up OK in the end, but had to do one side of the case per day when putting on the base texture coat.
Jim
http://www.mrcycles.com/eshopprod_cat_3196-19196-28447_product_406169.PJ1_WRINKLE-FINISH_BLACK_SPRAY.htm
Here's a thought. I've had bad experiences years ago putting clear lacquer over enamel. In some cases it created a severly wrinkled finish. Just a thought.
marv
:I electronically restored a AK mod 42 awhile back.The orig wrinkle-finish on the metal cab is almost all gone. Radio chassis works great now, but cabinet needs a new brown "wrinkle-finish" paint job. Does anyone know a good source to purchase dark brown wrinkle-finish spray paint (ready to use cans) anymore? Eastwood products used to sell the brown color thru AES, but no longer make it. Does any other mfgr make this anymore? Thanks, Randal
That's a good idea. I use that method on horn speakers.
Norm
:Randal,
:Here's a thought. I've had bad experiences years ago putting clear lacquer over enamel. In some cases it created a severly wrinkled finish. Just a thought.
:
:marv
:
::I electronically restored a AK mod 42 awhile back.The orig wrinkle-finish on the metal cab is almost all gone. Radio chassis works great now, but cabinet needs a new brown "wrinkle-finish" paint job. Does anyone know a good source to purchase dark brown wrinkle-finish spray paint (ready to use cans) anymore? Eastwood products used to sell the brown color thru AES, but no longer make it. Does any other mfgr make this anymore? Thanks, Randal
Randal,
Try looking at www.kennedymfg.com/touchup.htm. They manufacture tool boxes in brown wrinkle finishes and sell touchup paint in bottle and spray can form. They say its not for large areas, but I dont know what they call large.
Jon.
Randal,
Sorry to reply so late. I've been meaning to respond but had to put the forum on a back burner while overseas. You can do a base layer in crackle or black wrinkle to achieve the desired surface texture and then paint over it with the proper color. The key is patience - let the wrinkle or crackle cure for up to a week before putting on the topcoat and keep the topcoat light - just enough to cover the texture. Putting anything on the base coat too early or too thick can flatten out the wrinkling or fill the crackle. Also, you can speed and enhance the wrinkle or crackle process by using a hair dryer or heat gun - start at one corner and slowly work your way over the entire cabinet as the wrinkle "blooms". This may take 30 minutes or more on a cabinet the size of an AK 42. Letting the wrinkle develop on its own often gives less-than-satisfactory results in my experience. This is an AK 35 rust bucket I bought for $1 at a swap meet - the finish was crackle in this case.
After sandblasting the surface clean, I used a base of black crackle and a topcoat of Krylon brown camoflage. The camo brown is close to AK brown but is ultra-flat. The solution was a finish coat of satin laquer to give it a mild gloss. All finishes were from aerosol products. A good surface preparation is essential for a quality result. I have done an AK horn and a Stromberg pedestal speaker with excellent results too. Hope this helps.
JGJ
: Sorry to reply so late. I've been meaning to respond but had to put the forum on a back burner while overseas. You can do a base layer in crackle or black wrinkle to achieve the desired surface texture and then paint over it with the proper color. The key is patience - let the wrinkle or crackle cure for up to a week before putting on the topcoat and keep the topcoat light - just enough to cover the texture. Putting anything on the base coat too early or too thick can flatten out the wrinkling or fill the crackle. Also, you can speed and enhance the wrinkle or crackle process by using a hair dryer or heat gun - start at one corner and slowly work your way over the entire cabinet as the wrinkle "blooms". This may take 30 minutes or more on a cabinet the size of an AK 42. Letting the wrinkle develop on its own often gives less-than-satisfactory results in my experience. This is an AK 35 rust bucket I bought for $1 at a swap meet - the finish was crackle in this case.
:
:
:
:
:
:After sandblasting the surface clean, I used a base of black crackle and a topcoat of Krylon brown camoflage. The camo brown is close to AK brown but is ultra-flat. The solution was a finish coat of satin laquer to give it a mild gloss. All finishes were from aerosol products. A good surface preparation is essential for a quality result. I have done an AK horn and a Stromberg pedestal speaker with excellent results too. Hope this helps.
:
:JGJ
PS - Forgot to mention - if you assist the development the wrinkle with heat, don't touch the finish after you're through - it's still quite soft even though wrinkled. This is when you let it sit and allow the finish to cure for up to a week.
:: Sorry to reply so late. I've been meaning to respond but had to put the forum on a back burner while overseas. You can do a base layer in crackle or black wrinkle to achieve the desired surface texture and then paint over it with the proper color. The key is patience - let the wrinkle or crackle cure for up to a week before putting on the topcoat and keep the topcoat light - just enough to cover the texture. Putting anything on the base coat too early or too thick can flatten out the wrinkling or fill the crackle. Also, you can speed and enhance the wrinkle or crackle process by using a hair dryer or heat gun - start at one corner and slowly work your way over the entire cabinet as the wrinkle "blooms". This may take 30 minutes or more on a cabinet the size of an AK 42. Letting the wrinkle develop on its own often gives less-than-satisfactory results in my experience. This is an AK 35 rust bucket I bought for $1 at a swap meet - the finish was crackle in this case.
::
::
::
::
::
::After sandblasting the surface clean, I used a base of black crackle and a topcoat of Krylon brown camoflage. The camo brown is close to AK brown but is ultra-flat. The solution was a finish coat of satin laquer to give it a mild gloss. All finishes were from aerosol products. A good surface preparation is essential for a quality result. I have done an AK horn and a Stromberg pedestal speaker with excellent results too. Hope this helps.
::
::JGJ
:
:PS - Forgot to mention - if you assist the development the wrinkle with heat, don't touch the finish after you're through - it's still quite soft even though wrinkled. This is when you let it sit and allow the finish to cure for up to a week.
:: Sorry to reply so late. I've been meaning to respond but had to put the forum on a back burner while overseas. You can do a base layer in crackle or black wrinkle to achieve the desired surface texture and then paint over it with the proper color. The key is patience - let the wrinkle or crackle cure for up to a week before putting on the topcoat and keep the topcoat light - just enough to cover the texture. Putting anything on the base coat too early or too thick can flatten out the wrinkling or fill the crackle. Also, you can speed and enhance the wrinkle or crackle process by using a hair dryer or heat gun - start at one corner and slowly work your way over the entire cabinet as the wrinkle "blooms". This may take 30 minutes or more on a cabinet the size of an AK 42. Letting the wrinkle develop on its own often gives less-than-satisfactory results in my experience. This is an AK 35 rust bucket I bought for $1 at a swap meet - the finish was crackle in this case.
::
::
::
::
::
::After sandblasting the surface clean, I used a base of black crackle and a topcoat of Krylon brown camoflage. The camo brown is close to AK brown but is ultra-flat. The solution was a finish coat of satin laquer to give it a mild gloss. All finishes were from aerosol products. A good surface preparation is essential for a quality result. I have done an AK horn and a Stromberg pedestal speaker with excellent results too. Hope this helps.
::
::JGJ
:
:PS - Forgot to mention - if you assist the development the wrinkle with heat, don't touch the finish after you're through - it's still quite soft even though wrinkled. This is when you let it sit and allow the finish to cure for up to a week.