Gimmick wire

9/6/2007 10:31:23 AMTex

Philco 41-280 (yard sale radio), the wire that goes from the top of one side of the variable cap to the other (I think is called a gimmick) is rotted, the wire is soldered to one side of the cap but not the other, should the wire be bare where it touches the side of the cap or should it have insulation on it?

9/6/2007 11:23:49 AMRadiodoc

Tex,

Generally a gimmick is composed of two insulated wires twisted together which forms a small capacitor. There are some where the insulated wires are side by side (like flat speaker wire) and of some length. Both act like a small capacitor.

Radiodoc
************

:Philco 41-280 (yard sale radio), the wire that goes from the top of one side of the variable cap to the other (I think is called a gimmick) is rotted, the wire is soldered to one side of the cap but not the other, should the wire be bare where it touches the side of the cap or should it have insulation on it?
:
:

9/6/2007 12:29:37 PMBill VA

:Tex,
:
:Generally a gimmick is composed of two insulated wires twisted together which forms a small capacitor. There are some where the insulated wires are side by side (like flat speaker wire) and of some length. Both act like a small capacitor.
:
:Radiodoc
:************
:
::Philco 41-280 (yard sale radio), the wire that goes from the top of one side of the variable cap to the other (I think is called a gimmick) is rotted, the wire is soldered to one side of the cap but not the other, should the wire be bare where it touches the side of the cap or should it have insulation on it?
::

Tex,

Nowadays, it's possible to run into folks today and they only know a gimmmick as an NPO cap. Values are higher, they don't change in capacitance with temperature changes. I'll try to fix your picture.

Bill

9/6/2007 1:12:01 PMTex

::Tex,
::
::Generally a gimmick is composed of two insulated wires twisted together which forms a small capacitor. There are some where the insulated wires are side by side (like flat speaker wire) and of some length. Both act like a small capacitor.
::
::Radiodoc
::************
What did I do wrong on the picture? Should I try to use electrolysis to remove the rust? Should the wire be bare or insulated where it touches the second post on the capacitor?
::
:::Philco 41-280 (yard sale radio), the wire that goes from the top of one side of the variable cap to the other (I think is called a gimmick) is rotted, the wire is soldered to one side of the cap but not the other, should the wire be bare where it touches the side of the cap or should it have insulation on it?
:::

:::
:
:Tex,
:
:

:
:Nowadays, it's possible to run into folks today and they only know a gimmmick as an NPO cap. Values are higher, they don't change in capacitance with temperature changes. I'll try to fix your picture.
:
:Bill

9/6/2007 1:38:05 PMThomas Dermody

One of my Airline radios has a gimmic between the two condensers. I'm not sure what its purpose is. Perhaps it is to increase coupling between the oscillator and antenna stages, but since they both share the same heptode converter, I don't see the need. It says somewhere in the notes what the purpose of the gimmic is.

As for your radio, though, check the schematic carefully, and check the wiring of the radio carefully. Perhaps the wires are not for a gimmic, but maybe originally connected the left condenser to the trimmer at right. It would be more logical to mount the trimmer over the condenser it was being used on, but perhaps it wasn't. I don't see any mention of a gimmic in the schematic. Check the schematic and the acutal wiring carefully. Make sure that all connections made on the schematic are also made in the radio. If there are no missing connections, then you may assume that the two wires make a gimmic. You can use modern wire. Originally cloth wire was probably used, or perhaps rubber wire. If rubber wire was used, use solid plastic wire of the same gauge, with plastic that is the same thickness as the rubber (since original insulation is missing, compare to other original wire in the radio). Radio Daze sells some really fine push-back wire that has insulation about the same thickness as any cloth covered gimmic that I've seen. Their wire will work very well, and will look good, too.

9/6/2007 2:54:32 PMRadiodoc

Tex,

On my 41-280 the wire is insulated, is soldered to the tab on small trimmer tab (10A) and passes over and thru the eye of the tab on the other tuning cap. The end of the wire is folded back over about 3/16 to 1/4 inch. Perhaps this supplied enough capacitance to neutralize the triode 1st detector tube on the higher frequencies.

Radiodoc
**************

:::Tex,
:::
:::Generally a gimmick is composed of two insulated wires twisted together which forms a small capacitor. There are some where the insulated wires are side by side (like flat speaker wire) and of some length. Both act like a small capacitor.
:::
:::Radiodoc
:::************
:What did I do wrong on the picture? Should I try to use electrolysis to remove the rust? Should the wire be bare or insulated where it touches the second post on the capacitor?
:::
::::Philco 41-280 (yard sale radio), the wire that goes from the top of one side of the variable cap to the other (I think is called a gimmick) is rotted, the wire is soldered to one side of the cap but not the other, should the wire be bare where it touches the side of the cap or should it have insulation on it?
::::
::::
::
::Tex,
::
::
::
::Nowadays, it's possible to run into folks today and they only know a gimmmick as an NPO cap. Values are higher, they don't change in capacitance with temperature changes. I'll try to fix your picture.
::
::Bill

9/6/2007 8:23:37 PMBill VA

Hi Tex,
Regarding your picture.You didn't use a closing tag, ""
Here's both, top is your's. Quote marks used to prevent html from taking. Compare the two.

""
""

Rust, looks bad to me. I don't know what's best. I have always used Naval Jelly. But I don't strive for too much beauty on a chassis one doesn't see. That's some cheap steel in these sets.

I don't see your wire as a gimmick. As mentioned I think that's just a trimmer cap, probably to tighten up on alignment. They used rubber insulated wire, it's crumbled. Use what you got. I don't see how it would matter.

Bill

:::Tex,
:::
:::Generally a gimmick is composed of two insulated wires twisted together which forms a small capacitor. There are some where

9/6/2007 10:15:11 PMBill VA

Crazy...I can do it but go to make a reply and you will see the text.
Bill

:Hi Tex,
:Regarding your picture.You didn't use a closing tag, ""
:Here's both, top is your's. Quote marks used to prevent html from taking. Compare the two.
:
:""
:""
:
:Rust, looks bad to me. I don't know what's best. I have always used Naval Jelly. But I don't strive for too much beauty on a chassis one doesn't see. That's some cheap steel in these sets.
:
:I don't see your wire as a gimmick. As mentioned I think that's just a trimmer cap, probably to tighten up on alignment. They used rubber insulated wire, it's crumbled. Use what you got. I don't see how it would matter.
:
:Bill
:
::::Tex,
::::
::::Generally a gimmick is composed of two insulated wires twisted together which forms a small capacitor. There are some where
:
::::Tex,
::::
::::Generally a gimmick is composed of two insulated wires twisted together which forms a small capacitor. There are some where the insulated wires are side by side (like flat speaker wire) and of some length. Both act like a small capacitor.
::::
::::Radiodoc
::::************
::What did I do wrong on the picture? Should I try to use electrolysis to remove the rust? Should the wire be bare or insulated where it touches the second post on the capacitor?
::::
:::::Philco 41-280 (yard sale radio), the wire that goes from the top of one side of the variable cap to the other (I think is called a gimmick) is rotted, the wire is soldered to one side of the cap but not the other, should the wire be bare where it touches the side of the cap or should it have insulation on it?
:::::
:::::
:::
:::Tex,
:::
:::
:::
:::Nowadays, it's possible to run into folks today and they only know a gimmmick as an NPO cap. Values are higher, they don't change in capacitance with temperature changes. I'll try to fix your picture.
:::
:::Bill

9/7/2007 10:13:59 AMTex

This is just a reply to see what I did wrong on posting the picture.

:Crazy...I can do it but go to make a reply and you will see the text.
:Bill
:
::Hi Tex,
::Regarding your picture.You didn't use a closing tag, ""
::Here's both, top is your's. Quote marks used to prevent html from taking. Compare the two.
::
::""
::""
::
::Rust, looks bad to me. I don't know what's best. I have always used Naval Jelly. But I don't strive for too much beauty on a chassis one doesn't see. That's some cheap steel in these sets.
::
::I don't see your wire as a gimmick. As mentioned I think that's just a trimmer cap, probably to tighten up on alignment. They used rubber insulated wire, it's crumbled. Use what you got. I don't see how it would matter.
::
::Bill
::
:::::Tex,
:::::
:::::Generally a gimmick is composed of two insulated wires twisted together which forms a small capacitor. There are some where
::
:::::Tex,
:::::
:::::Generally a gimmick is composed of two insulated wires twisted together which forms a small capacitor. There are some where the insulated wires are side by side (like flat speaker wire) and of some length. Both act like a small capacitor.
:::::
:::::Radiodoc
:::::************
:::What did I do wrong on the picture? Should I try to use electrolysis to remove the rust? Should the wire be bare or insulated where it touches the second post on the capacitor?
:::::
::::::Philco 41-280 (yard sale radio), the wire that goes from the top of one side of the variable cap to the other (I think is called a gimmick) is rotted, the wire is soldered to one side of the cap but not the other, should the wire be bare where it touches the side of the cap or should it have insulation on it?
::::::
::::::
::::
::::Tex,
::::
::::
::::
::::Nowadays, it's possible to run into folks today and they only know a gimmmick as an NPO cap. Values are higher, they don't change in capacitance with temperature changes. I'll try to fix your picture.
::::
::::Bill

9/7/2007 4:41:53 PMEdd

Bill & Tex:

I will place totally ALL of the HTML language info needed for referencing at the bottom of this post, as Bill's quote mark sets preempted the visible text showing, for Tex to then be able to see the "closing tag" (referenced in yellow highlighting), BUT that units inclusive set of angle brackets would also be having the same effect.

To cut down on the brain cluttering, all of the textual and paragraph / sentence structuring elements have been highlighted in Burple?...such that they can be ignored.

What shot you down Tex, was what I have highlighted in green..compare both of your concurrent entry's.

I find the protocol used here on this sites is NOT requiring a lot of additional data that you have included in that string...your.... /image tailer for example.

I use a minimal format, thus cutting down on complexity and chance of further error, since this site is showing all posting errors until corrected on in a later posting.

There being one addition, the factual oddity that this site CERTAINLY picks up its share of " fast-low-flying-random-colon -hits", such as you frequently see at the very beginning of a line.
To preclude an URL referencing or imaging addee ( which I typically place at the very beginning of a line ) from taking a hit and being corrupted; I place sequential dual header and tailer "breaks"of left angle bracket-br-right angle bracket....check it out on my example four lines on down.
I believe that since then, I have then had only 1 or 2 corruptive problems by colons and then they were justifiably on Loooooong URL addees .

First........Just below, showing up such that you can read it.... will be a visible print out of the just mentioned simplified posting format that I am using, followed by my placing of it as an actual hot reference linking, which will activate and show up as your photo....taa...Daaaa...

Second....

Just below this line will be the totally visible HTML info and all relevant text, as was mentioned in the my first sentence.

Third........

Will be my agreement that your "rust bucket" chassis would best be left hidden within the cabinetry, pending the degree of success that you
eventually achieve.

The Phosporic acid based rust cleaning / abating products certainly get with it, but "on the free", you might initially check your
wifes ? ..(be she Mama Cass...or Twiggy ?).....culinary supplies and see if any Cream of Tartar is available, initially take a good degreaser and get any
trace of oil / grease contaminants free from within the pores and then work a thick paste into the problem area using an small acid brush or stiff
toothbrush,than a rinse off and another attempt and evaluation. This just basically gets down into the pores and removes the final stains that are left after a mechanical cleaning has removed the top scale with only the small reddish rust stains left down in the pits .

73's de Edd

:This is just a reply to see what I did wrong on posting the picture.
:
::Crazy...I can do it but go to make a reply and you will see the text.
::Bill
::
:::Hi Tex,
:::Regarding your picture.You didn't use a closing tag, ""
:::Here's both, top is your's. Quote marks used to prevent html from taking. Compare the two.
:::
:::""
:::""
:::
:::Rust, looks bad to me. I don't know what's best. I have always used Naval Jelly. But I don't strive for too much beauty on a chassis one doesn't see. That's some cheap steel in these sets.
:::
:::I don't see your wire as a gimmick. As mentioned I think that's just a trimmer cap, probably to tighten up on alignment. They used rubber insulated wire, it's crumbled. Use what you got. I don't see how it would matter.
:::
:::Bill
:::
::::::Tex,
::::::
::::::Generally a gimmick is composed of two insulated wires twisted together which forms a small capacitor. There are some where
:::
::::::Tex,
::::::
::::::Generally a gimmick is composed of two insulated wires twisted together which forms a small capacitor. There are some where the insulated wires are side by side (like flat speaker wire) and of some length. Both act like a small capacitor.
::::::
::::::Radiodoc
::::::************
::::What did I do wrong on the picture? Should I try to use electrolysis to remove the rust? Should the wire be bare or insulated where it touches the second post on the capacitor?
::::::
:::::::Philco 41-280 (yard sale radio), the wire that goes from the top of one side of the variable cap to the other (I think is called a gimmick) is rotted, the wire is soldered to one side of the cap but not the other, should the wire be bare where it touches the side of the cap or should it have insulation on it?
:::::::
:::::::
:::::
:::::Tex,
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::Nowadays, it's possible to run into folks today and they only know a gimmmick as an NPO cap. Values are higher, they don't change in capacitance with temperature changes. I'll try to fix your picture.
:::::
:::::Bill

9/10/2007 12:45:05 AMBill VA

Thanks Edd, nothing like

C
H
A
N

:
:
:
:
:Bill & Tex:
:
:
:I will place totally ALL of the HTML language info needed for referencing at the bottom of this post, as Bill's quote mark sets preempted the visible text showing, for Tex to then be able to see the "closing tag" (referenced in yellow highlighting), BUT that units inclusive set of angle brackets would also be having the same effect.
:
:To cut down on the brain cluttering, all of the textual and paragraph / sentence structuring elements have been highlighted in Burple?...such that they can be ignored.
:
:What shot you down Tex, was what I have highlighted in green..compare both of your concurrent entry's.
:
:I find the protocol used here on this sites is NOT requiring a lot of additional data that you have included in that string...your.... /image tailer for example.
:
:I use a minimal format, thus cutting down on complexity and chance of further error, since this site is showing all posting errors until corrected on in a later posting.
:
: There being one addition, the factual oddity that this site CERTAINLY picks up its share of " fast-low-flying-random-colon -hits", such as you frequently see at the very beginning of a line.
:To preclude an URL referencing or imaging addee ( which I typically place at the very beginning of a line ) from taking a hit and being corrupted; I place sequential dual header and tailer "breaks"of left angle bracket-br-right angle bracket....check it out on my example four lines on down.
:I believe that since then, I have then had only 1 or 2 corruptive problems by colons and then they were justifiably on Loooooong URL addees .
:
:
:First........Just below, showing up such that you can read it.... will be a visible print out of the just mentioned simplified posting format that I am using, followed by my placing of it as an actual hot reference linking, which will activate and show up as your photo....taa...Daaaa...
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:Second....
:
:Just below this line will be the totally visible HTML info and all relevant text, as was mentioned in the my first sentence.
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:Third........
:
:Will be my agreement that your "rust bucket" chassis would best be left hidden within the cabinetry, pending the degree of success that you
:eventually achieve.
:
:The Phosporic acid based rust cleaning / abating products certainly get with it, but "on the free", you might initially check your
:wifes ? ..(be she Mama Cass...or Twiggy ?).....culinary supplies and see if any Cream of Tartar is available, initially take a good degreaser and get any
:trace of oil / grease contaminants free from within the pores and then work a thick paste into the problem area using an small acid brush or stiff
:toothbrush,than a rinse off and another attempt and evaluation. This just basically gets down into the pores and removes the final stains that are left after a mechanical cleaning has removed the top scale with only the small reddish rust stains left down in the pits .
:
:
:73's de Edd
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
::This is just a reply to see what I did wrong on posting the picture.
::
:::Crazy...I can do it but go to make a reply and you will see the text.
:::Bill
:::
::::Hi Tex,
::::Regarding your picture.You didn't use a closing tag, ""
::::Here's both, top is your's. Quote marks used to prevent html from taking. Compare the two.
::::
::::""
::::""
::::
::::Rust, looks bad to me. I don't know what's best. I have always used Naval Jelly. But I don't strive for too much beauty on a chassis one doesn't see. That's some cheap steel in these sets.
::::
::::I don't see your wire as a gimmick. As mentioned I think that's just a trimmer cap, probably to tighten up on alignment. They used rubber insulated wire, it's crumbled. Use what you got. I don't see how it would matter.
::::
::::Bill
::::
:::::::Tex,
:::::::
:::::::Generally a gimmick is composed of two insulated wires twisted together which forms a small capacitor. There are some where
::::
:::::::Tex,
:::::::
:::::::Generally a gimmick is composed of two insulated wires twisted together which forms a small capacitor. There are some where the insulated wires are side by side (like flat speaker wire) and of some length. Both act like a small capacitor.
:::::::
:::::::Radiodoc
:::::::************
:::::What did I do wrong on the picture? Should I try to use electrolysis to remove the rust? Should the wire be bare or insulated where it touches the second post on the capacitor?
:::::::
::::::::Philco 41-280 (yard sale radio), the wire that goes from the top of one side of the variable cap to the other (I think is called a gimmick) is rotted, the wire is soldered to one side of the cap but not the other, should the wire be bare where it touches the side of the cap or should it have insulation on it?
::::::::
::::::::
::::::
::::::Tex,
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::Nowadays, it's possible to run into folks today and they only know a gimmmick as an NPO cap. Values are higher, they don't change in capacitance with temperature changes. I'll try to fix your picture.
::::::
::::::Bill

9/10/2007 12:52:22 AMBill VA

I knew I shouldn't have tried that.
Bill

:Thanks Edd, nothing like
:
:

:C
:H
:A
:N
:
:G
:
:E
:
:
:
:
::
::
::

::
::Bill & Tex:
::
::
::I will place totally ALL of the HTML language info needed for referencing at the bottom of this post, as Bill's quote mark sets preempted the visible text showing, for Tex to then be able to see the "closing tag" (referenced in yellow highlighting), BUT that units inclusive set of angle brackets would also be having the same effect.
::
::To cut down on the brain cluttering, all of the textual and paragraph / sentence structuring elements have been highlighted in Burple?...such that they can be ignored.
::
::What shot you down Tex, was what I have highlighted in green..compare both of your concurrent entry's.
::
::I find the protocol used here on this sites is NOT requiring a lot of additional data that you have included in that string...your.... /image tailer for example.
::
::I use a minimal format, thus cutting down on complexity and chance of further error, since this site is showing all posting errors until corrected on in a later posting.
::
:: There being one addition, the factual oddity that this site CERTAINLY picks up its share of " fast-low-flying-random-colon -hits", such as you frequently see at the very beginning of a line.
::To preclude an URL referencing or imaging addee ( which I typically place at the very beginning of a line ) from taking a hit and being corrupted; I place sequential dual header and tailer "breaks"of left angle bracket-br-right angle bracket....check it out on my example four lines on down.
::I believe that since then, I have then had only 1 or 2 corruptive problems by colons and then they were justifiably on Loooooong URL addees .
::
::
::First........Just below, showing up such that you can read it.... will be a visible print out of the just mentioned simplified posting format that I am using, followed by my placing of it as an actual hot reference linking, which will activate and show up as your photo....taa...Daaaa...
::
::
::

::
::
::
::
::

::
::
::
::
::
::
::Second....
::
::Just below this line will be the totally visible HTML info and all relevant text, as was mentioned in the my first sentence.
::
::
::

::
::
::
::
::
::
::Third........
::
::Will be my agreement that your "rust bucket" chassis would best be left hidden within the cabinetry, pending the degree of success that you
::eventually achieve.
::
::The Phosporic acid based rust cleaning / abating products certainly get with it, but "on the free", you might initially check your
::wifes ? ..(be she Mama Cass...or Twiggy ?).....culinary supplies and see if any Cream of Tartar is available, initially take a good degreaser and get any
::trace of oil / grease contaminants free from within the pores and then work a thick paste into the problem area using an small acid brush or stiff
::toothbrush,than a rinse off and another attempt and evaluation. This just basically gets down into the pores and removes the final stains that are left after a mechanical cleaning has removed the top scale with only the small reddish rust stains left down in the pits .
::
::
::73's de Edd
::
::

::
::
::
::
::
:::This is just a reply to see what I did wrong on posting the picture.
:::
::::Crazy...I can do it but go to make a reply and you will see the text.
::::Bill
::::
:::::Hi Tex,
:::::Regarding your picture.You didn't use a closing tag, ""
:::::Here's both, top is your's. Quote marks used to prevent html from taking. Compare the two.
:::::
:::::"

"
:::::"

"
:::::
:::::Rust, looks bad to me. I don't know what's best. I have always used Naval Jelly. But I don't strive for too much beauty on a chassis one doesn't see. That's some cheap steel in these sets.
:::::
:::::I don't see your wire as a gimmick. As mentioned I think that's just a trimmer cap, probably to tighten up on alignment. They used rubber insulated wire, it's crumbled. Use what you got. I don't see how it would matter.
:::::
:::::Bill
:::::
::::::::Tex,
::::::::
::::::::Generally a gimmick is composed of two insulated wires twisted together which forms a small capacitor. There are some where
:::::
::::::::Tex,
::::::::
::::::::Generally a gimmick is composed of two insulated wires twisted together which forms a small capacitor. There are some where the insulated wires are side by side (like flat speaker wire) and of some length. Both act like a small capacitor.
::::::::
::::::::Radiodoc
::::::::************
::::::What did I do wrong on the picture? Should I try to use electrolysis to remove the rust? Should the wire be bare or insulated where it touches the second post on the capacitor?
::::::::
:::::::::Philco 41-280 (yard sale radio), the wire that goes from the top of one side of the variable cap to the other (I think is called a gimmick) is rotted, the wire is soldered to one side of the cap but not the other, should the wire be bare where it touches the side of the cap or should it have insulation on it?
:::::::::

:::::::::
:::::::
:::::::Tex,
:::::::
:::::::

:::::::
:::::::Nowadays, it's possible to run into folks today and they only know a gimmmick as an NPO cap. Values are higher, they don't change in capacitance with temperature changes. I'll try to fix your picture.
:::::::
:::::::Bill

9/11/2007 3:05:17 PMEdd

You now see what I mean about proper code string formatting, any corruption and even your shift to center of page index referencing with your....

C

H

A

N

G

E

:I knew I shouldn't have tried that.
:Bill
:
::Thanks Edd, nothing like
::
::
::C
::H
::A
::N
::
::G
::
::E
::
::
::
::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::Bill & Tex:
:::
:::
:::I will place totally ALL of the HTML language info needed for referencing at the bottom of this post, as Bill's quote mark sets preempted the visible text showing, for Tex to then be able to see the "closing tag" (referenced in yellow highlighting), BUT that units inclusive set of angle brackets would also be having the same effect.
:::
:::To cut down on the brain cluttering, all of the textual and paragraph / sentence structuring elements have been highlighted in Burple?...such that they can be ignored.
:::
:::What shot you down Tex, was what I have highlighted in green..compare both of your concurrent entry's.
:::
:::I find the protocol used here on this sites is NOT requiring a lot of additional data that you have included in that string...your.... /image tailer for example.
:::
:::I use a minimal format, thus cutting down on complexity and chance of further error, since this site is showing all posting errors until corrected on in a later posting.
:::
::: There being one addition, the factual oddity that this site CERTAINLY picks up its share of " fast-low-flying-random-colon -hits", such as you frequently see at the very beginning of a line.
:::To preclude an URL referencing or imaging addee ( which I typically place at the very beginning of a line ) from taking a hit and being corrupted; I place sequential dual header and tailer "breaks"of left angle bracket-br-right angle bracket....check it out on my example four lines on down.
:::I believe that since then, I have then had only 1 or 2 corruptive problems by colons and then they were justifiably on Loooooong URL addees .
:::
:::
:::First........Just below, showing up such that you can read it.... will be a visible print out of the just mentioned simplified posting format that I am using, followed by my placing of it as an actual hot reference linking, which will activate and show up as your photo....taa...Daaaa...
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::Second....
:::
:::Just below this line will be the totally visible HTML info and all relevant text, as was mentioned in the my first sentence.
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::Third........
:::
:::Will be my agreement that your "rust bucket" chassis would best be left hidden within the cabinetry, pending the degree of success that you
:::eventually achieve.
:::
:::The Phosporic acid based rust cleaning / abating products certainly get with it, but "on the free", you might initially check your
:::wifes ? ..(be she Mama Cass...or Twiggy ?).....culinary supplies and see if any Cream of Tartar is available, initially take a good degreaser and get any
:::trace of oil / grease contaminants free from within the pores and then work a thick paste into the problem area using an small acid brush or stiff
:::toothbrush,than a rinse off and another attempt and evaluation. This just basically gets down into the pores and removes the final stains that are left after a mechanical cleaning has removed the top scale with only the small reddish rust stains left down in the pits .
:::
:::
:::73's de Edd
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
::::This is just a reply to see what I did wrong on posting the picture.
::::
:::::Crazy...I can do it but go to make a reply and you will see the text.
:::::Bill
:::::
::::::Hi Tex,
::::::Regarding your picture.You didn't use a closing tag, ""
::::::Here's both, top is your's. Quote marks used to prevent html from taking. Compare the two.
::::::
::::::""
::::::""
::::::
::::::Rust, looks bad to me. I don't know what's best. I have always used Naval Jelly. But I don't strive for too much beauty on a chassis one doesn't see. That's some cheap steel in these sets.
::::::
::::::I don't see your wire as a gimmick. As mentioned I think that's just a trimmer cap, probably to tighten up on alignment. They used rubber insulated wire, it's crumbled. Use what you got. I don't see how it would matter.
::::::
::::::Bill
::::::
:::::::::Tex,
:::::::::
:::::::::Generally a gimmick is composed of two insulated wires twisted together which forms a small capacitor. There are some where
::::::
:::::::::Tex,
:::::::::
:::::::::Generally a gimmick is composed of two insulated wires twisted together which forms a small capacitor. There are some where the insulated wires are side by side (like flat speaker wire) and of some length. Both act like a small capacitor.
:::::::::
:::::::::Radiodoc
:::::::::************
:::::::What did I do wrong on the picture? Should I try to use electrolysis to remove the rust? Should the wire be bare or insulated where it touches the second post on the capacitor?
:::::::::
::::::::::Philco 41-280 (yard sale radio), the wire that goes from the top of one side of the variable cap to the other (I think is called a gimmick) is rotted, the wire is soldered to one side of the cap but not the other, should the wire be bare where it touches the side of the cap or should it have insulation on it?
::::::::::
::::::::::
::::::::
::::::::Tex,
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::Nowadays, it's possible to run into folks today and they only know a gimmmick as an NPO cap. Values are higher, they don't change in capacitance with temperature changes. I'll try to fix your picture.
::::::::
::::::::Bill

9/12/2007 1:15:19 PMBill VA

I'm going to just stick with pictures on this site, follow the format you indicated. Tho what I did worked on my computer, saved the code to hard disc and used on my site. Your "blink" won't work on internet explorer. I have to say you are very good at the graphic schematic instructional stuff.
Bill

:You now see what I mean about proper code string formatting, any corruption and even your shift to center of page index referencing with your....
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::I knew I shouldn't have tried that.
::Bill
::
:::Thanks Edd, nothing like
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::::Bill & Tex:
::::
::::
::::I will place totally ALL of the HTML language info needed for referencing at the bottom of this post, as Bill's quote mark sets preempted the visible text showing, for Tex to then be able to see the "closing tag" (referenced in yellow highlighting), BUT that units inclusive set of angle brackets would also be having the same effect.
::::
::::To cut down on the brain cluttering, all of the textual and paragraph / sentence structuring elements have been highlighted in Burple?...such that they can be ignored.
::::
::::What shot you down Tex, was what I have highlighted in green..compare both of your concurrent entry's.
::::
::::I find the protocol used here on this sites is NOT requiring a lot of additional data that you have included in that string...your.... /image tailer for example.
::::
::::I use a minimal format, thus cutting down on complexity and chance of further error, since this site is showing all posting errors until corrected on in a later posting.
::::
:::: There being one addition, the factual oddity that this site CERTAINLY picks up its share of " fast-low-flying-random-colon -hits", such as you frequently see at the very beginning of a line.
::::To preclude an URL referencing or imaging addee ( which I typically place at the very beginning of a line ) from taking a hit and being corrupted; I place sequential dual header and tailer "breaks"of left angle bracket-br-right angle bracket....check it out on my example four lines on down.
::::I believe that since then, I have then had only 1 or 2 corruptive problems by colons and then they were justifiably on Loooooong URL addees .
::::
::::
::::First........Just below, showing up such that you can read it.... will be a visible print out of the just mentioned simplified posting format that I am using, followed by my placing of it as an actual hot reference linking, which will activate and show up as your photo....taa...Daaaa...
::::
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::::Second....
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::::Just below this line will be the totally visible HTML info and all relevant text, as was mentioned in the my first sentence.
::::
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::::Third........
::::
::::Will be my agreement that your "rust bucket" chassis would best be left hidden within the cabinetry, pending the degree of success that you
::::eventually achieve.
::::
::::The Phosporic acid based rust cleaning / abating products certainly get with it, but "on the free", you might initially check your
::::wifes ? ..(be she Mama Cass...or Twiggy ?).....culinary supplies and see if any Cream of Tartar is available, initially take a good degreaser and get any
::::trace of oil / grease contaminants free from within the pores and then work a thick paste into the problem area using an small acid brush or stiff
::::toothbrush,than a rinse off and another attempt and evaluation. This just basically gets down into the pores and removes the final stains that are left after a mechanical cleaning has removed the top scale with only the small reddish rust stains left down in the pits .
::::
::::
::::73's de Edd
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
:::::This is just a reply to see what I did wrong on posting the picture.
:::::
::::::Crazy...I can do it but go to make a reply and you will see the text.
::::::Bill
::::::
:::::::Hi Tex,
:::::::Regarding your picture.You didn't use a closing tag, ""
:::::::Here's both, top is your's. Quote marks used to prevent html from taking. Compare the two.
:::::::
:::::::""
:::::::""
:::::::
:::::::Rust, looks bad to me. I don't know what's best. I have always used Naval Jelly. But I don't strive for too much beauty on a chassis one doesn't see. That's some cheap steel in these sets.
:::::::
:::::::I don't see your wire as a gimmick. As mentioned I think that's just a trimmer cap, probably to tighten up on alignment. They used rubber insulated wire, it's crumbled. Use what you got. I don't see how it would matter.
:::::::
:::::::Bill
:::::::
::::::::::Tex,
::::::::::
::::::::::Generally a gimmick is composed of two insulated wires twisted together which forms a small capacitor. There are some where
:::::::
::::::::::Tex,
::::::::::
::::::::::Generally a gimmick is composed of two insulated wires twisted together which forms a small capacitor. There are some where the insulated wires are side by side (like flat speaker wire) and of some length. Both act like a small capacitor.
::::::::::
::::::::::Radiodoc
::::::::::************
::::::::What did I do wrong on the picture? Should I try to use electrolysis to remove the rust? Should the wire be bare or insulated where it touches the second post on the capacitor?
::::::::::
:::::::::::Philco 41-280 (yard sale radio), the wire that goes from the top of one side of the variable cap to the other (I think is called a gimmick) is rotted, the wire is soldered to one side of the cap but not the other, should the wire be bare where it touches the side of the cap or should it have insulation on it?
:::::::::::
:::::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::Tex,
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::Nowadays, it's possible to run into folks today and they only know a gimmmick as an NPO cap. Values are higher, they don't change in capacitance with temperature changes. I'll try to fix your picture.
:::::::::
:::::::::Bill