I am attempting to repair a mopar car radio model #608 radio from a 54 Plymouth. A rat chewed thru some of the windings on my step-up transformer. I can't begin to check out this radio until
I replace this transformer on the power supply. There are no ratings any where on it. There is a couple numbers on it, the first one is:25C501644-G, and the second is: 185 515323. There are no other identifying marks on it. On the schematic it looks like 235vac coming out of it. I went to Radio Daze, and Antique electronic supply and saw nothing on their websites under the headings "transformers" that looks anything like it. Any ideas on where to go to find one or can the numbers I gave be cross referenced or something? Thanks for your help.

Well the rat probably didn't eat the copper did it?
Usually only insulation.
However even if it did bite through the copper can you get at the lead stubs and simply re-solder new extension leads to them? Then use heat shrink sleeving over the solder joints.
Even if you have to open the transformer housing you should be able to simply tack on new wire leads.... no?

:Well the rat probably didn't eat the copper did it?
:Usually only insulation.
: However even if it did bite through the copper can you get at the lead stubs and simply re-solder new extension leads to them? Then use heat shrink sleeving over the solder joints.
:Even if you have to open the transformer housing you should be able to simply tack on new wire leads.... no?
:
:Actually, the lead wires are fine. The rat chewed through the paper insulating wrap and first layer of fine copper windings in the center. So its not really repairable. Thanks Richard

Richard,
If all else fails, is it possible to use a std. 12.6vac filament xformer with the 110-220vac primary option, but use it in the reverse, with the original primary being used as the secondary, strapped for 220vac operation.

marv

::Well the rat probably didn't eat the copper did it?
::Usually only insulation.
:: However even if it did bite through the copper can you get at the lead stubs and simply re-solder new extension leads to them? Then use heat shrink sleeving over the solder joints.
::Even if you have to open the transformer housing you should be able to simply tack on new wire leads.... no?
::
::Actually, the lead wires are fine. The rat chewed through the paper insulating wrap and first layer of fine copper windings in the center. So its not really repairable. Thanks Richard

:Richard,
:If all else fails, is it possible to use a std. 12.6vac filament xformer with the 110-220vac primary option, but use it in the reverse, with the original primary being used as the secondary, strapped for 220vac operation.
:
:marv

If youre not too crazy about authenticity, get a Radio Shack 273-1365 filament transformer. This is a 12.6Volt center tapped transformer, 450 mA. Wired backwards, it will give about the correct Voltage for the tube plates if you replace the 6X5 with a diode bridge. You could leave the 6X5 and hide the diode under the chassis somewhere, and let the vibrator provide AC to the transformer secondary (now primary) with the center tap connect to +6 Volts, and the outside leads connected to the vibrator. The primary (now secondary) of the transformer will connect to the AC leads of the bridge, and the + and - leads will connect to chassis and filter input (6X5 cathode). If 450 MA isn't enough current, there are larger transformers with more output.

Lewis

::Richard,
::If all else fails, is it possible to use a std. 12.6vac filament xformer with the 110-220vac primary option, but use it in the reverse, with the original primary being used as the secondary, strapped for 220vac operation.
::
::marv
:
:
:If youre not too crazy about authenticity, get a Radio Shack 273-1365 filament transformer. This is a 12.6Volt center tapped transformer, 450 mA. Wired backwards, it will give about the correct Voltage for the tube plates if you replace the 6X5 with a diode bridge. You could leave the 6X5 and hide the diode under the chassis somewhere, and let the vibrator provide AC to the transformer secondary (now primary) with the center tap connect to +6 Volts, and the outside leads connected to the vibrator. The primary (now secondary) of the transformer will connect to the AC leads of the bridge, and the + and - leads will connect to chassis and filter input (6X5 cathode). If 450 MA isn't enough current, there are larger transformers with more output.
:
:Lewis

P.S. A good bridge is the Radio Shack 276-1173 400 Volts @ 4 Amps. You'll not blow that one up easily, and its only two-three bucks.

Lewis

If you need more voltage, arrange the diodes in a voltage doubling circuit) (you will need two diodes rated for 600 volts, and two 47 MFD, 450 WVDC electrolytics). Use resistors to reduce the resulting voltage properly. If you're not concerned about looks, pull that 6X5. It'll save you juice for other things. (A really nice change for any 6 volt car is a 6 volt alternator. It will give you more power, and will give it at lower RPMs. You also won't have to worry about cleaning voltage regulator points. ...Make sure that you always use a 2 gauge cable for the battery....4 gauge cables for 12 volt cars won't give enough power to the starter on a 6 volt car.)

Make sure that you wire the transformer properly, depending on whether the car uses 6 or 12 volts. If the car uses 6 volts, wire each half of the secondary (two 6 volt sections) to the vibrator points, just like the original was wired. If the car uses 12 volts, either wire the transformer as originally wired, and include a series resistor on the center tap, or use the entire winding, omitting the center tap, and wire it to only one of the vibrator points. For 3 and 4 pin non-synchronous vibrators, this is usually the set of points that shorts out the coil in the vibrator. If you have questions, ask.

Thankfully Radio Shack transformers come in metal shells, so you don't have to worry about animals chewing through them.

Thomas

:If you need more voltage, arrange the diodes in a voltage doubling circuit) (you will need two diodes rated for 600 volts, and two 47 MFD, 450 WVDC electrolytics). Use resistors to reduce the resulting voltage properly. If you're not concerned about looks, pull that 6X5. It'll save you juice for other things. (A really nice change for any 6 volt car is a 6 volt alternator. It will give you more power, and will give it at lower RPMs. You also won't have to worry about cleaning voltage regulator points. ...Make sure that you always use a 2 gauge cable for the battery....4 gauge cables for 12 volt cars won't give enough power to the starter on a 6 volt car.)
:
:Make sure that you wire the transformer properly, depending on whether the car uses 6 or 12 volts. If the car uses 6 volts, wire each half of the secondary (two 6 volt sections) to the vibrator points, just like the original was wired. If the car uses 12 volts, either wire the transformer as originally wired, and include a series resistor on the center tap, or use the entire winding, omitting the center tap, and wire it to only one of the vibrator points. For 3 and 4 pin non-synchronous vibrators, this is usually the set of points that shorts out the coil in the vibrator. If you have questions, ask.
:
:Thankfully Radio Shack transformers come in metal shells, so you don't have to worry about animals chewing through them.
:
:Thomas
I need help in identifying a couple of components around this vibrator, 6x4rectifier, and transformer. I don't know for sure what they are: condensers, capacitors, filters or what. So I would like to e-mail a pic with a number beside each thing and have somebody who wouldn't mind looking at them and identifing them for me. Thanks Richard

:::Richard,
:::If all else fails, is it possible to use a std. 12.6vac filament xformer with the 110-220vac primary option, but use it in the reverse, with the original primary being used as the secondary, strapped for 220vac operation.
:::
:::marv
::
::
::If youre not too crazy about authenticity, get a Radio Shack 273-1365 filament transformer. This is a 12.6Volt center tapped transformer, 450 mA. Wired backwards, it will give about the correct Voltage for the tube plates if you replace the 6X5 with a diode bridge. You could leave the 6X5 and hide the diode under the chassis somewhere, and let the vibrator provide AC to the transformer secondary (now primary) with the center tap connect to +6 Volts, and the outside leads connected to the vibrator. The primary (now secondary) of the transformer will connect to the AC leads of the bridge, and the + and - leads will connect to chassis and filter input (6X5 cathode). If 450 MA isn't enough current, there are larger transformers with more output.
::
::Lewis
:
:P.S. A good bridge is the Radio Shack 276-1173 400 Volts @ 4 Amps. You'll not blow that one up easily, and its only two-three bucks.
:
:Lewis
Nope, I don't care one wit about the original look since its all buried under the dash anyway, I just want it to work reliably so I don't have to drag it back out again. Anyway this 12.6vac transformer is O.K. for my 6v pos ground car, if wired backwards with primary and secondaries reversed but I have to change my (in this case) 6x4 to a diode bridge? I am not sure I would know how to wire a diode bridge up. Additionally, is 220vac output close enough to the schematics specified 235vac to do the job? Thanks
Richard

::::Richard,
::::If all else fails, is it possible to use a std. 12.6vac filament xformer with the 110-220vac primary option, but use it in the reverse, with the original primary being used as the secondary, strapped for 220vac operation.
::::
::::marv
:::
:::
:::If youre not too crazy about authenticity, get a Radio Shack 273-1365 filament transformer. This is a 12.6Volt center tapped transformer, 450 mA. Wired backwards, it will give about the correct Voltage for the tube plates if you replace the 6X5 with a diode bridge. You could leave the 6X5 and hide the diode under the chassis somewhere, and let the vibrator provide AC to the transformer secondary (now primary) with the center tap connect to +6 Volts, and the outside leads connected to the vibrator. The primary (now secondary) of the transformer will connect to the AC leads of the bridge, and the + and - leads will connect to chassis and filter input (6X5 cathode). If 450 MA isn't enough current, there are larger transformers with more output.
:::
:::Lewis
::
::P.S. A good bridge is the Radio Shack 276-1173 400 Volts @ 4 Amps. You'll not blow that one up easily, and its only two-three bucks.
::
::Lewis
:Nope, I don't care one wit about the original look since its all buried under the dash anyway, I just want it to work reliably so I don't have to drag it back out again. Anyway this 12.6vac transformer is O.K. for my 6v pos ground car, if wired backwards with primary and secondaries reversed but I have to change my (in this case) 6x4 to a diode bridge? I am not sure I would know how to wire a diode bridge up. Additionally, is 220vac output close enough to the schematics specified 235vac to do the job? Thanks
:Richard
Never mind, I see you described how to wire up the diode.

Nope, I don't care one wit about the original look since its all buried under the dash anyway, I just want it to work reliably so I don't have to drag it back out again. Anyway this 12.6vac transformer is O.K. for my 6v pos ground car, if wired backwards with primary and secondaries reversed but I have to change my (in this case) 6x4 to a diode bridge? I am not sure I would know how to wire a diode bridge up. Additionally, is 220vac output close enough to the schematics specified 235vac to do the job? Thanks
::Richard
:Never mind, I see you described how to wire up the diode.

Richard:
Anything close to the right Voltage is going to work with those tubes...they are designed to work through a wide margin of Voltages. I will draw a schematic and scan it to your e-mail soon as I can...I had a tree fall on the house Friday night in a storm, and I am pretty tied up with insurance people right now...not too much damage done, but roof and windows need repair, so there goes a lot of my idle time for a while...

Lewis

P. S. Whatcha hear about the Heathkit BE-5???

: Nope, I don't care one wit about the original look since its all buried under the dash anyway, I just want it to work reliably so I don't have to drag it back out again. Anyway this 12.6vac transformer is O.K. for my 6v pos ground car, if wired backwards with primary and secondaries reversed but I have to change my (in this case) 6x4 to a diode bridge? I am not sure I would know how to wire a diode bridge up. Additionally, is 220vac output close enough to the schematics specified 235vac to do the job? Thanks
:::Richard
::Never mind, I see you described how to wire up the diode.
:
:
:Richard:
:Anything close to the right Voltage is going to work with those tubes...they are designed to work through a wide margin of Voltages. I will draw a schematic and scan it to your e-mail soon as I can...I had a tree fall on the house Friday night in a storm, and I am pretty tied up with insurance people right now...not too much damage done, but roof and windows need repair, so there goes a lot of my idle time for a while...
:
:Lewis
:
:P. S. Whatcha hear about the Heathkit BE-5???
: So sorry about the house, I won the BE-5 on e-bay, hopefully I will have it by early next week. Anyway I am taking a two week vacation starting middle of next week so don't worry about rushing me any info right now. Thanks alot, Richard
P.S. Hope everything goes alright on your house.

Richard,
The 220vac is RMS, but peak voltage will be near 310 vac, and when recified/filtered, will approach 300vdc. You might plan on some series dropping resistors in either the primary or secondary. Preferrably the lower current secondary.

marv

:: Nope, I don't care one wit about the original look since its all buried under the dash anyway, I just want it to work reliably so I don't have to drag it back out again. Anyway this 12.6vac transformer is O.K. for my 6v pos ground car, if wired backwards with primary and secondaries reversed but I have to change my (in this case) 6x4 to a diode bridge? I am not sure I would know how to wire a diode bridge up. Additionally, is 220vac output close enough to the schematics specified 235vac to do the job? Thanks
::::Richard
:::Never mind, I see you described how to wire up the diode.
::
::
::Richard:
::Anything close to the right Voltage is going to work with those tubes...they are designed to work through a wide margin of Voltages. I will draw a schematic and scan it to your e-mail soon as I can...I had a tree fall on the house Friday night in a storm, and I am pretty tied up with insurance people right now...not too much damage done, but roof and windows need repair, so there goes a lot of my idle time for a while...
::
::Lewis
::
::P. S. Whatcha hear about the Heathkit BE-5???
:: So sorry about the house, I won the BE-5 on e-bay, hopefully I will have it by early next week. Anyway I am taking a two week vacation starting middle of next week so don't worry about rushing me any info right now. Thanks alot, Richard
:P.S. Hope everything goes alright on your house.

:Richard,
:The 220vac is RMS, but peak voltage will be near 310 vac, and when recified/filtered, will approach 300vdc. You might plan on some series dropping resistors in either the primary or secondary. Preferrably the lower current secondary.
:
:marv
:
::: Nope, I don't care one wit about the original look since its all buried under the dash anyway, I just want it to work reliably so I don't have to drag it back out again. Anyway this 12.6vac transformer is O.K. for my 6v pos ground car, if wired backwards with primary and secondaries reversed but I have to change my (in this case) 6x4 to a diode bridge? I am not sure I would know how to wire a diode bridge up. Additionally, is 220vac output close enough to the schematics specified 235vac to do the job? Thanks
:::::Richard
::::Never mind, I see you described how to wire up the diode.
:::
:::
:::Richard:
:::Anything close to the right Voltage is going to work with those tubes...they are designed to work through a wide margin of Voltages. I will draw a schematic and scan it to your e-mail soon as I can...I had a tree fall on the house Friday night in a storm, and I am pretty tied up with insurance people right now...not too much damage done, but roof and windows need repair, so there goes a lot of my idle time for a while...
:::
:::Lewis
:::
:::P. S. Whatcha hear about the Heathkit BE-5???
::: So sorry about the house, I won the BE-5 on e-bay, hopefully I will have it by early next week. Anyway I am taking a two week vacation starting middle of next week so don't worry about rushing me any info right now. Thanks alot, Richard
::P.S. Hope everything goes alright on your house.

There shouldn't be any real problems with the house---just the usual hassle with contractors and insurance adjustors, blah, blah, blah---- and trying to get someone to come to the site when he says he will, not two days later---It was a neighbor's tree, and it was dead, so that gets his insurance company into the battle...anyway, let's play email tag until we get together and I will see about getting some stuff to you.

Lewis

Huh???????????????????

::Richard,
::The 220vac is RMS, but peak voltage will be near 310 vac, and when recified/filtered, will approach 300vdc. You might plan on some series dropping resistors in either the primary or secondary. Preferrably the lower current secondary.
::
::marv
::
:::: Nope, I don't care one wit about the original look since its all buried under the dash anyway, I just want it to work reliably so I don't have to drag it back out again. Anyway this 12.6vac transformer is O.K. for my 6v pos ground car, if wired backwards with primary and secondaries reversed but I have to change my (in this case) 6x4 to a diode bridge? I am not sure I would know how to wire a diode bridge up. Additionally, is 220vac output close enough to the schematics specified 235vac to do the job? Thanks
::::::Richard
:::::Never mind, I see you described how to wire up the diode.
::::
::::
::::Richard:
::::Anything close to the right Voltage is going to work with those tubes...they are designed to work through a wide margin of Voltages. I will draw a schematic and scan it to your e-mail soon as I can...I had a tree fall on the house Friday night in a storm, and I am pretty tied up with insurance people right now...not too much damage done, but roof and windows need repair, so there goes a lot of my idle time for a while...
::::
::::Lewis
::::
::::P. S. Whatcha hear about the Heathkit BE-5???
:::: So sorry about the house, I won the BE-5 on e-bay, hopefully I will have it by early next week. Anyway I am taking a two week vacation starting middle of next week so don't worry about rushing me any info right now. Thanks alot, Richard
:::P.S. Hope everything goes alright on your house.
:
:There shouldn't be any real problems with the house---just the usual hassle with contractors and insurance adjustors, blah, blah, blah---- and trying to get someone to come to the site when he says he will, not two days later---It was a neighbor's tree, and it was dead, so that gets his insurance company into the battle...anyway, let's play email tag until we get together and I will see about getting some stuff to you.
:
:Lewis
:

:Richard,
:The 220vac is RMS, but peak voltage will be near 310 vac, and when recified/filtered, will approach 300vdc. You might plan on some series dropping resistors in either the primary or secondary. Preferrably the lower current secondary.
:
:marv

Marv:
May I disagree with you on the RMS..we're working more or less with a square wave out of the vibrator, so I suppose the DC out of the bridge would be closer to a 120 Volt secondary (used to be primary) times 2, or nearly 240 Volts. Lose a few Volts through the transformer, and you are pretty close to the ballpark.
Lewis

Lewis,
Agree about the vibrator square wave, but the transformer doesnt readily pass a square waves, and there will no doubt be rounding of the waveform with attendent losses. I chose the more cautious approach. A half wave rectifier might be better than the bridge if the voltage is too high, although more filtering may be required. Since this approach simply replaces the original xformer of unknown specs, the final outcome is yet to be proven, and I'm anxious to hear the results. Maybe I'll try Googling "Vibrator Power Supplies"

marv

::Richard,
::The 220vac is RMS, but peak voltage will be near 310 vac, and when recified/filtered, will approach 300vdc. You might plan on some series dropping resistors in either the primary or secondary. Preferrably the lower current secondary.
::
::marv
:
:
:
:Marv:
:May I disagree with you on the RMS..we're working more or less with a square wave out of the vibrator, so I suppose the DC out of the bridge would be closer to a 120 Volt secondary (used to be primary) times 2, or nearly 240 Volts. Lose a few Volts through the transformer, and you are pretty close to the ballpark.
:Lewis

Lewis,
Got a couple old vibrators Motorola 3333 or 9M53 and Philco 88-?????, but can find no specs. They were stored in a Mallory 509P box, but no specs there either. Both measure infinity ohms across all terminals, so guess I'll have to open them to find out the failure. If a 120/240 pri.w/6.3 sec is not found, 2 120/6.3vac can be used by wiring the secondaries (6.3vac) in parallel (to become primary) and wiring the primaries (120vac) in series to become secondaries.

marv

::Richard,
::The 220vac is RMS, but peak voltage will be near 310 vac, and when recified/filtered, will approach 300vdc. You might plan on some series dropping resistors in either the primary or secondary. Preferrably the lower current secondary.
::
::marv
:
:
:
:Marv:
:May I disagree with you on the RMS..we're working more or less with a square wave out of the vibrator, so I suppose the DC out of the bridge would be closer to a 120 Volt secondary (used to be primary) times 2, or nearly 240 Volts. Lose a few Volts through the transformer, and you are pretty close to the ballpark.
:Lewis

Lewis,
This is a little off-subject, but would silicon grease/spray curb the contacts from arcing, and hence the pitting in old vibrators?

marv

::Richard,
::The 220vac is RMS, but peak voltage will be near 310 vac, and when recified/filtered, will approach 300vdc. You might plan on some series dropping resistors in either the primary or secondary. Preferrably the lower current secondary.
::
::marv
:
:
:
:Marv:
:May I disagree with you on the RMS..we're working more or less with a square wave out of the vibrator, so I suppose the DC out of the bridge would be closer to a 120 Volt secondary (used to be primary) times 2, or nearly 240 Volts. Lose a few Volts through the transformer, and you are pretty close to the ballpark.
:Lewis

:Lewis,
:This is a little off-subject, but would silicon grease/spray curb the contacts from arcing, and hence the pitting in old vibrators?
:
:marv
Marv:
I wouldn't think so, but I've never worked on anything like a auto vibrator that I can remember. The heavy duty contacts I have worked on, where there was a lot of arcing and sparking worked best if kept clean and nothing else.
Lewis

Lewis,
On a Lark, I took the Motorola apart to investigate the failure, and found one input lead (big pin) completely gone (apparently burnt off I suspect) Measured coil at 35 ohms ( 6v/12v???) Cleaned contacts and applied 6 volts (assuming big pins were input) with no success. Applied 12 volts with no success. Magnetics seem to work, but it won't vibrate. I'm lost without a diagram or description of operation on this unit. Oh well, just a side interest. I got other projects to keep me occupied.

marv

::Lewis,
::This is a little off-subject, but would silicon grease/spray curb the contacts from arcing, and hence the pitting in old vibrators?
::
::marv
:Marv:
:I wouldn't think so, but I've never worked on anything like a auto vibrator that I can remember. The heavy duty contacts I have worked on, where there was a lot of arcing and sparking worked best if kept clean and nothing else.
:Lewis

:Lewis,
:On a Lark, I took the Motorola apart to investigate the failure, and found one input lead (big pin) completely gone (apparently burnt off I suspect) Measured coil at 35 ohms ( 6v/12v???) Cleaned contacts and applied 6 volts (assuming big pins were input) with no success. Applied 12 volts with no success. Magnetics seem to work, but it won't vibrate. I'm lost without a diagram or description of operation on this unit. Oh well, just a side interest. I got other projects to keep me occupied.
:
:marv

Marv:
The vibrating part of the viabrator should be just like a door buzzer, a coil and contacts. I think the vibrator shorts out the coil instead of opening it. A xchematic should be easy to find in the resources section of this site, just find a Motorola radio.

A simple check would be, it seems to me, to measure the coil resistance, get a resistor of about the same value (to simulate the power transformer), apply 6 Volts to those pins that have the coil, listen to it buzz. If it doesn't buzz, fix it.

Lewis

Lewis,
Looked at a couple schematics today and figured out a vibrator requires the loop-back/feedback from a transformer primary to complete its circuit and vibrate. So now I know.

::Lewis,
::On a Lark, I took the Motorola apart to investigate the failure, and found one input lead (big pin) completely gone (apparently burnt off I suspect) Measured coil at 35 ohms ( 6v/12v???) Cleaned contacts and applied 6 volts (assuming big pins were input) with no success. Applied 12 volts with no success. Magnetics seem to work, but it won't vibrate. I'm lost without a diagram or description of operation on this unit. Oh well, just a side interest. I got other projects to keep me occupied.
::
::marv
:
:Marv:
:The vibrating part of the viabrator should be just like a door buzzer, a coil and contacts. I think the vibrator shorts out the coil instead of opening it. A xchematic should be easy to find in the resources section of this site, just find a Motorola radio.
:
:A simple check would be, it seems to me, to measure the coil resistance, get a resistor of about the same value (to simulate the power transformer), apply 6 Volts to those pins that have the coil, listen to it buzz. If it doesn't buzz, fix it.
:
:Lewis
:
:
:
:

:I am attempting to repair a mopar car radio model #608 radio from a 54 Plymouth. A rat chewed thru some of the windings on my step-up transformer. I can't begin to check out this radio until
:I replace this transformer on the power supply. There are no ratings any where on it. There is a couple numbers on it, the first one is:25C501644-G, and the second is: 185 515323. There are no other identifying marks on it. On the schematic it looks like 235vac coming out of it. I went to Radio Daze, and Antique electronic supply and saw nothing on their websites under the headings "transformers" that looks anything like it. Any ideas on where to go to find one or can the numbers I gave be cross referenced or something? Thanks for your help.
Richard: Your radio was manufactured by Philco and is a 6 volt negative ground unit. Your transformer is a basic "vibrator" transformer and typical of auto radios of that day. You can find a junk vibrator transformer from most any 6v auto radio and use it as long as space permits. However, be aware that in l955 most autos went to 12 volts with the exception of Ford. Be sure to replace the buffer capacitor if you have not done so already. Good luck.

OK!! I change my transformer recommendations from 12.6vac to 6.3vac. Every thing else the same.

marv

::I am attempting to repair a mopar car radio model #608 radio from a 54 Plymouth. A rat chewed thru some of the windings on my step-up transformer. I can't begin to check out this radio until
::I replace this transformer on the power supply. There are no ratings any where on it. There is a couple numbers on it, the first one is:25C501644-G, and the second is: 185 515323. There are no other identifying marks on it. On the schematic it looks like 235vac coming out of it. I went to Radio Daze, and Antique electronic supply and saw nothing on their websites under the headings "transformers" that looks anything like it. Any ideas on where to go to find one or can the numbers I gave be cross referenced or something? Thanks for your help.
:Richard: Your radio was manufactured by Philco and is a 6 volt negative ground unit. Your transformer is a basic "vibrator" transformer and typical of auto radios of that day. You can find a junk vibrator transformer from most any 6v auto radio and use it as long as space permits. However, be aware that in l955 most autos went to 12 volts with the exception of Ford. Be sure to replace the buffer capacitor if you have not done so already. Good luck.

::I am attempting to repair a mopar car radio model #608 radio from a 54 Plymouth. A rat chewed thru some of the windings on my step-up transformer. I can't begin to check out this radio until
::I replace this transformer on the power supply. There are no ratings any where on it. There is a couple numbers on it, the first one is:25C501644-G, and the second is: 185 515323. There are no other identifying marks on it. On the schematic it looks like 235vac coming out of it. I went to Radio Daze, and Antique electronic supply and saw nothing on their websites under the headings "transformers" that looks anything like it. Any ideas on where to go to find one or can the numbers I gave be cross referenced or something? Thanks for your help.
:Richard: Your radio was manufactured by Philco and is a 6 volt negative ground unit. Your transformer is a basic "vibrator" transformer and typical of auto radios of that day. You can find a junk vibrator transformer from most any 6v auto radio and use it as long as space permits. However, be aware that in l955 most autos went to 12 volts with the exception of Ford. Be sure to replace the buffer capacitor if you have not done so already. Good luck.
I thought it was manufactured by motorola, because thats the name printed on most of the components inside . Also, the car is a 6v positive ground car so can the radio be neg. ground? Richard

:::I am attempting to repair a mopar car radio model #608 radio from a 54 Plymouth. A rat chewed thru some of the windings on my step-up transformer. I can't begin to check out this radio until
:::I replace this transformer on the power supply. There are no ratings any where on it. There is a couple numbers on it, the first one is:25C501644-G, and the second is: 185 515323. There are no other identifying marks on it. On the schematic it looks like 235vac coming out of it. I went to Radio Daze, and Antique electronic supply and saw nothing on their websites under the headings "transformers" that looks anything like it. Any ideas on where to go to find one or can the numbers I gave be cross referenced or something? Thanks for your help.
::Richard: Your radio was manufactured by Philco and is a 6 volt negative ground unit. Your transformer is a basic "vibrator" transformer and typical of auto radios of that day. You can find a junk vibrator transformer from most any 6v auto radio and use it as long as space permits. However, be aware that in l955 most autos went to 12 volts with the exception of Ford. Be sure to replace the buffer capacitor if you have not done so already. Good luck.
:I thought it was manufactured by motorola, because thats the name printed on most of the components inside . Also, the car is a 6v positive ground car so can the radio be neg. ground? Richard

Richard: I am wondering if you have a factory supplied radio or an "after market" motorola. I looked at my auto reference is it indicated that a 54 plymouth was negative ground . . .however, that really does not change anything about your repair. Good Luck.

::::I am attempting to repair a mopar car radio model #608 radio from a 54 Plymouth. A rat chewed thru some of the windings on my step-up transformer. I can't begin to check out this radio until
::::I replace this transformer on the power supply. There are no ratings any where on it. There is a couple numbers on it, the first one is:25C501644-G, and the second is: 185 515323. There are no other identifying marks on it. On the schematic it looks like 235vac coming out of it. I went to Radio Daze, and Antique electronic supply and saw nothing on their websites under the headings "transformers" that looks anything like it. Any ideas on where to go to find one or can the numbers I gave be cross referenced or something? Thanks for your help.
:::Richard: Your radio was manufactured by Philco and is a 6 volt negative ground unit. Your transformer is a basic "vibrator" transformer and typical of auto radios of that day. You can find a junk vibrator transformer from most any 6v auto radio and use it as long as space permits. However, be aware that in l955 most autos went to 12 volts with the exception of Ford. Be sure to replace the buffer capacitor if you have not done so already. Good luck.
::I thought it was manufactured by motorola, because thats the name printed on most of the components inside . Also, the car is a 6v positive ground car so can the radio be neg. ground? Richard
:
:Richard: I am wondering if you have a factory supplied radio or an "after market" motorola. I looked at my auto reference is it indicated that a 54 plymouth was negative ground . . .however, that really does not change anything about your repair. Good Luck.

Richard...
Are you sure that the car is a positive ground? I never worked on a Plymouth before, but the only positive ground I worked on was a '55 Ford. Somebody help us here.

Lewis

Lewis,
I think you're correct. "FORD HAS A BETTER IDEA" was their slogan at the time, and a positive ground was suppose to improve performance, spark plug life, gasoline economy and the list goes on. It may have
coincided with the switch to 12 volt systems too. Think it lasted 2-3 years before they gave up, but threw a lot of repairmen for a loop.

marv

:::::I am attempting to repair a mopar car radio model #608 radio from a 54 Plymouth. A rat chewed thru some of the windings on my step-up transformer. I can't begin to check out this radio until
:::::I replace this transformer on the power supply. There are no ratings any where on it. There is a couple numbers on it, the first one is:25C501644-G, and the second is: 185 515323. There are no other identifying marks on it. On the schematic it looks like 235vac coming out of it. I went to Radio Daze, and Antique electronic supply and saw nothing on their websites under the headings "transformers" that looks anything like it. Any ideas on where to go to find one or can the numbers I gave be cross referenced or something? Thanks for your help.
::::Richard: Your radio was manufactured by Philco and is a 6 volt negative ground unit. Your transformer is a basic "vibrator" transformer and typical of auto radios of that day. You can find a junk vibrator transformer from most any 6v auto radio and use it as long as space permits. However, be aware that in l955 most autos went to 12 volts with the exception of Ford. Be sure to replace the buffer capacitor if you have not done so already. Good luck.
:::I thought it was manufactured by motorola, because thats the name printed on most of the components inside . Also, the car is a 6v positive ground car so can the radio be neg. ground? Richard
::
::Richard: I am wondering if you have a factory supplied radio or an "after market" motorola. I looked at my auto reference is it indicated that a 54 plymouth was negative ground . . .however, that really does not change anything about your repair. Good Luck.
:
:Richard...
:Are you sure that the car is a positive ground? I never worked on a Plymouth before, but the only positive ground I worked on was a '55 Ford. Somebody help us here.
:
:Lewis
:

:Lewis,
:I think you're correct. "FORD HAS A BETTER IDEA" was their slogan at the time, and a positive ground was suppose to improve performance, spark plug life, gasoline economy and the list goes on. It may have
:coincided with the switch to 12 volt systems too. Think it lasted 2-3 years before they gave up, but threw a lot of repairmen for a loop.
:
:marv
:
:
:
::::::I am attempting to repair a mopar car radio model #608 radio from a 54 Plymouth. A rat chewed thru some of the windings on my step-up transformer. I can't begin to check out this radio until
::::::I replace this transformer on the power supply. There are no ratings any where on it. There is a couple numbers on it, the first one is:25C501644-G, and the second is: 185 515323. There are no other identifying marks on it. On the schematic it looks like 235vac coming out of it. I went to Radio Daze, and Antique electronic supply and saw nothing on their websites under the headings "transformers" that looks anything like it. Any ideas on where to go to find one or can the numbers I gave be cross referenced or something? Thanks for your help.
:::::Richard: Your radio was manufactured by Philco and is a 6 volt negative ground unit. Your transformer is a basic "vibrator" transformer and typical of auto radios of that day. You can find a junk vibrator transformer from most any 6v auto radio and use it as long as space permits. However, be aware that in l955 most autos went to 12 volts with the exception of Ford. Be sure to replace the buffer capacitor if you have not done so already. Good luck.
::::I thought it was manufactured by motorola, because thats the name printed on most of the components inside . Also, the car is a 6v positive ground car so can the radio be neg. ground? Richard
:::
:::Richard: I am wondering if you have a factory supplied radio or an "after market" motorola. I looked at my auto reference is it indicated that a 54 plymouth was negative ground . . .however, that really does not change anything about your repair. Good Luck.
::
::Richard...
::Are you sure that the car is a positive ground? I never worked on a Plymouth before, but the only positive ground I worked on was a '55 Ford. Somebody help us here.
::
::Lewis
::
Yes, All Plymouths from the 30's on thru 56 are 6V positive ground. The reason for this is because with polarity reversed for some reason there is no corrosion build up on the battery terminals. Anyway they went 12v neg ground in 57 succumbing to peer pressure from the rest of the industry. No this is a factory radio the outside cover says Mopar model #608 and it matches the pics in the shop manual.
Richard