Starting to get parts in for this thing but am still confused about the extra 8mf elec cap that appears to be added.Can't find it anywhere on schematic. Think it may have been a repair with wrong cap. The positive end goes to the exact tube and pin as old cap shows on schematic. Both neg end of caps go to ground. What will be the result if I remove this 8mf cap and replace all 3 elec caps as shown on schematic?
More experienced in a/c and appliance repair. These old radios are loads of fun!!!!

The Fada 20T schematic indicates 0nly two 16uf filter caps; one on each side of the choke.

Replacing the filter caps as per schematic should work properly. (you can probably use two 20uf caps if those values are more easily found)

:The Fada 20T schematic indicates 0nly two 16uf filter caps; one on each side of the choke.
:
:Replacing the filter caps as per schematic should work properly. (you can probably use two 20uf caps if those values are more easily found)
:agree with both. Have a nice variety of elec caps so will install all new. Think I have identified a short in ballast and lamp area so will have to go over entire chassis. This old dog just don't want to hunt!!!

Mike,
Make sure you have the most up-to-date schematic and Rider notes on your set - sometimes sets were updated during a production run and part values may have change. Most likely, however, your set was repaired with whatever the previous repairer had on hand. It really doesn't make a big difference if you replace a 10MF cap with a 8MF - just as long as you use a cap with the proper voltage rating. If there is evidence that your radio has been modified, I'd recommend you verify ALL of the circuitry using a hi-liter pen to mark the schematic when connections have been verified or corrected. You likely won't go wrong getting your set's circuitry back in line with the factory schematic.

:Mike,
:Make sure you have the most up-to-date schematic and Rider notes on your set - sometimes sets were updated during a production run and part values may have change. Most likely, however, your set was repaired with whatever the previous repairer had on hand. It really doesn't make a big difference if you replace a 10MF cap with a 8MF - just as long as you use a cap with the proper voltage rating. If there is evidence that your radio has been modified, I'd recommend you verify ALL of the circuitry using a hi-liter pen to mark the schematic when connections have been verified or corrected. You likely won't go wrong getting your set's circuitry back in line with the factory schematic.

::Mike,
::Make sure you have the most up-to-date schematic and Rider notes on your set - sometimes sets were updated during a production run and part values may have change. Most likely, however, your set was repaired with whatever the previous repairer had on hand. It really doesn't make a big difference if you replace a 10MF cap with a 8MF - just as long as you use a cap with the proper voltage rating. If there is evidence that your radio has been modified, I'd recommend you verify ALL of the circuitry using a hi-liter pen to mark the schematic when connections have been verified or corrected. You likely won't go wrong getting your set's circuitry back in line with the factory schematic.

:::Mike,
:::Make sure you have the most up-to-date schematic and Rider notes on your set - sometimes sets were updated during a production run and part values may have change. Most likely, however, your set was repaired with whatever the previous repairer had on hand. It really doesn't make a big difference if you replace a 10MF cap with a 8MF - just as long as you use a cap with the proper voltage rating. If there is evidence that your radio has been modified, I'd recommend you verify ALL of the circuitry using a hi-liter pen to mark the schematic when connections have been verified or corrected. You likely won't go wrong getting your set's circuitry back in line with the factory schematic.
:
Try again. Think I have this nailed doen to a disfunctional ballast. Tubes won't light up now that I have them all and dial lamp blows. Ballast seems to function SOMETIMES. Can't find a source for new ballast tube #115.41..any ideas where to look??