HI; I just got the Photo Fact folder for this unit today, V17 the Horiz output tube used in this application in a (6BQ6GT) not the (6CD6G or 6DN6)we have been talking about. is their a difference. thanks chip

As you can see and is the visible difference in the the physical sizing and the power rating the.... lowest power rating would be a 6BQ6 and the next power step up would be the 6DQ6 and the really big bottle is the 6CD6...I would have to to check on the pin outs on the 6CD6...but what you want to use is what the schema says. How did I get off on the schema referencing, and what Sams number are you referrring to now ? How much of a hoz scan width improvement did loosening up the drive padder produce
for you ?

:HI; I just got the Photo Fact folder for this unit today, V17 the Horiz output tube used in this application iS a (6BQ6GT) not the (6CD6G or 6DN6)we have been talking about. is their a difference. thanks chip

Hi

Pin out for 6CD6 & 6BQ6 are different and not interchangeable. As mentioned 6DQ6/6GW6 can be used for 6BQ6 or 6CU6.

Norm

:As you can see and is the visible difference in the the physical sizing and the power rating the.... lowest power rating would be a 6BQ6 and the next power step up would be the 6DQ6 and the really big bottle is the 6CD6...I would have to to check on the pin outs on the 6CD6...but what you want to use is what the schema says. How did I get off on the schema referencing, and what Sams number are you referrring to now ? How much of a hoz scan width improvement did loosening up the drive padder produce
:for you ?
:
::HI; I just got the Photo Fact folder for this unit today, V17 the Horiz output tube used in this application iS a (6BQ6GT) not the (6CD6G or 6DN6)we have been talking about. is their a difference. thanks chip

I apologize for starting a new thread about the same set.The photofact folder I am referring to is set# 117 Folder # 2. This set has a number of models listed, one of which is my set 26X55A. 6BQ6GT tube is on the print but the tube drawing on the back of my set uses a 6CD6G. A far as the paddel adjustment goes their was no change in horiz width. thanks chip
:
:

Chip

Which tube is your TV wired for? It makes a big difference. Cathode of 6BQ6 is pin #8. Cathode of 6CD6 is pin #3. Pin #8 on 6CD6 is g2.

If your TV is somewhat working now it has the proper Horizontal Output Tube.

Norm

: I apologize for starting a new thread about the same set.The photofact folder I am referring to is set# 117 Folder # 2. This set has a number of models listed, one of which is my set 26X55A. 6BQ6GT tube is on the print but the tube drawing on the back of my set uses a 6CD6G. A far as the paddel adjustment goes their was no change in horiz width. thanks chip
::
::

There's a Production change bulletin 144-1 out on this model. I don't have or I would check it. It probably indicates a change to the 6CD6. It's better.
Bill VA

:Chip
:
: Which tube is your TV wired for? It makes a big difference. Cathode of 6BQ6 is pin #8. Cathode of 6CD6 is pin #3. Pin #8 on 6CD6 is g2.
:
: If your TV is somewhat working now it has the proper Horizontal Output Tube.
:
:Norm

:: I apologize for starting a new thread about the same set.The photofact folder I am referring to is set# 117 Folder # 2. This set has a number of models listed, one of which is my set 26X55A. 6BQ6GT tube is on the print but the tube drawing on the back of my set uses a 6CD6G. A far as the paddel adjustment goes their was no change in horiz width. thanks chip
:::
:::

OK: I am in the process of getting a tube tester, and will first test all of the tubes in that circuit before I go any further.

Initially...might you have had a dyslexic blip....with that number actually being ....118 folder -2 ?
I have a marked up referencing of that and what you might do is look about and get the REAL reference to be using...that being the actual chassis number of the unit. Supposedly a 21D1 for your set.
The reference to the use of a tube tester for the analysis of the stringent demands placed upon a sweep output tube can some times be meaningless..unless, being in the worst cases.
How about consulting the referencing now and finding some data:
Specifically...find the L20 width coil on the schema and also move to the rear of the chassis and locate the hole that gave you access to the hoz drive padder and look to the right and notice that there are two holes to its right ( that are located above and below each other). The top hole is access to the slotted brass screw that runs a slug in and out of the width coil to adjust the TV rasters picture width. The hole below is for access to the Hoz linearity / efficiency coil.
Initially ....since you probably won't have a slotted diddle stick...use an appropriately sized jewelers screwdriver to just snugly fit the slot in the end of the brass machine screw and initially make ultra-micro CW and CCW pressures to the screw to be sure that the slug has not frozen and locked within the coil form with time. If bi-directional movement is found possible, then warm up the set and make a reference mark of the max pic width attainable on the screen with a grease pencil / Sharpie,etc. Then set up a mirror to view the kine front and start a turning of the width coil adjustment.... to see which direction widens your picture.
If your picture magically fills out......you are home already.
If not.... we need to see if there is low voltage in the powers supply or the hoz sweep circuitry.

Experience...???....If you are sqeamish on voltage reading takings...clip on a test lead at the point of interest to remote the voltage to your metering + test prod /lead with the metering neg lead kept to chassis ground. Then the set can then be powered up for taking a reading at each time.
I am interested in the voltages with in the red boxed areas and the one designated NEGATIVE voltage reading within the orange box.
Metering is to be done with the high Z presented by a DVM..... or even an older VTVM.....as we don't want a meter loading down the points of interest and giving an erroneously lower reading than the norm by that fallacy.
While in this circuitry, am also interested as to the blue boxed C3 10 ufd being the original fact unit or has it been replaced, as well, the C3 10 ufd cathode bypass electrolytic on the HOZ out tube. And is the plate resistor giong to pin 5 of the hoz driver stage of V16...6SL7..a 150 k as shown or possibly a 220 k as other schematic had shown ?
And NOW the one I am REALY interested in, is the cathode of the damper at its pin 3...as this is the boost source that feeds a specific value of voltage to both your hoz osc circuit, vertical circuit and some of the audio circuit. So that voltage level has to to be assured
in order for those slave fed circuits operations to be normal. You see, there was also a quirk in the vertical circuit mentioned .
It is also included in the coverage at the top of the page, and in that circuitry I question the green boxed 20 ufd B+ bypass electrolytic C2A along with the even more critical 100 ufd C2-C cathode bypass electrolytic. Those are situations / applications such that you can sub in a like value of electrolytic shunting them by using a pair of clip / test leads and see if a performance difference is make as one lead is connectred / disconnected, while observing the sets picture ....concentrating on the vertical fill and linearity.
As for the cerise marked up controls, on their adjustments, typically the height control will controll the vertical raster fill in at the top of the picture while the height controls the raster fill in at the bottom of the picture. WHILE..on some other sets the height control fills in the pic both top and bottom, while the linearity is left to assure the proper vertical proportions of the picture....e.g. such that a depicted circle covering the screen is properly round and not a disproportioned ovaloid instead. One has to work with both of the conrols together...unless there is a circuit malady such as an out of tolerance resistor in a plate supply or the mentioned cathode bypass condenser decreasing in value such that proper gain stage...thus waveform shaping cannot be attained.
Wellll.....digest all of this....providing feed back numbers and info .... and then we will proceed on to potential cap leakage at C63,64,-65 or confirming a proper tuning of the sets efficiency coil....after seeing those voltage readings.

SCHEMATICUSUS:
http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/1607/yeoldenadmirablejaypeggov3.jpg

Addenda:
Sir William...et al....
That production change bulletin....#25....was merely relevant to :
1...Change in the focus circuitry wiring components...nope....
2..12H6 tube used in hoz phase det cktry...nope....
3...ADDITION OF SOCKET AND PLUG FOR ATTACHMENT OF A COLOR CONVERTER...
( Gee, oh gosh, oh golly, MY...tell me it ain't true Batman !......just dream on.....and get the old color wheel bolted on and mounted up .

73's de Edd

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:OK: I am in the process of getting a tube tester, and will first test all of the tubes in that circuit before I go any further.

OK; I belive those cap your are talking about have all been changed. I have located the Horiz Width coils and with a few CW turns the left side of the picture starts to diminish after awhile. Turning it CCW (backing it out) just about all the way I see no change to the right side . As far as checking those voltages for you please give me a few days because I will have to pull the chassis back out of the set. Also the chassis number is 2101. thanks chip

Chip,
The width coil is moving both sides of the picture. However the picture is not centered on the screen. There are yoke adjustments for that. It's kind of like moving a movie projector so that the picture is centered on the screen. The control should be right behind the yoke. This should be done after the picture is as wide as you can get it.

Dave
:OK; I belive those cap your are talking about have all been changed. I have located the Horiz Width coils and with a few CW turns the left side of the picture starts to diminish after awhile. Turning it CCW (backing it out) just about all the way I see no change to the right side . As far as checking those voltages for you please give me a few days because I will have to pull the chassis back out of the set. Also the chassis number is 2101. thanks chip

Thanks: But I have already tried those adjustments.

Confirmed....the chassis being utilized is 21-Dog-1...vice...2101.

Also confirm that you are fully aware that the centering operation of that mechanism moves freely on a X-Y axis.
The unitiated will invariably see that large centering tab sticking out with its winged thumb nut that locks it into position after adjustment. Typically one would then loosen that lock down wing nut feature and then find that the tab will rotate quite freely in a ROTARY circular movement until it reaches its CW or CCW mechanical limits. (Usually I think that particular movement mostly produces a max picture shift of the picture either diagonally or up and down) What you also need to know is that the tab can ALSO make a limited movement action in and out towards the picture tube neck. Giving it yet a greater degree of adjustment of the picture raster positioning. Check that out ..if you were not aware and had not discovered that in your adjustments.
Agreed.... that the leverage of the length of the tab makes a rotary adjustment quite easy BUT to get a precise control of that tab in an additional shift inwards or outwards is most easily accomplished by the placing of the thumbs and index fingers of each hand on appropriate sides of the tab sticking out and then rest the edge of the palms upon the mass of the centering assembly. Then you tightly grip the tab with the two hands thumbs /fingers and that will give you the capability and precise manipulative leverage to initiate a continual degree of adjustment of the tab proper, to any .....specifically the optimal....positioning of the picture, while viewing the pic / test pattern on a monitoring mirror .

73's de Edd

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:Thanks: But I have already tried those adjustments.

:.I did find a couple of bad tubes. V15 AND V16