http://oldtech.net/German/7000-USA.gif
It looks like a .22 mf capacitor but it's so illegable that I'm not sure. The value on the actual capacitor is also almost completely illegable too. It's on the cathode so I don't think it will affect the audio much if it's a .022, .1 or .22. I'm almost done with the restoration so I'm using a .22. The referenced schematic looks similar to the chassis I'm working on, which only has a serial number on it. The serial number starts with 1032 but doubt that that's a model numbe. It seems more like the Grundig 7000 to me.
Thanks,
Dave
It could possibly be 22 nano farads (.022 uf)
I've seen other schematics where the ECH81 cathode is bypassed by 10 nano farads in a mixer ckt.
Mike M.
:Hello All,
: Can anyone see the value of C11 on this schematic?
:
:http://oldtech.net/German/7000-USA.gif
:
:It looks like a .22 mf capacitor but it's so illegable that I'm not sure. The value on the actual capacitor is also almost completely illegable too. It's on the cathode so I don't think it will affect the audio much if it's a .022, .1 or .22. I'm almost done with the restoration so I'm using a .22. The referenced schematic looks similar to the chassis I'm working on, which only has a serial number on it. The serial number starts with 1032 but doubt that that's a model numbe. It seems more like the Grundig 7000 to me.
:
:Thanks,
:
:Dave
Thanks,
Dave
:Dave,
:
:It could possibly be 22 nano farads (.022 uf)
:
:I've seen other schematics where the ECH81 cathode is bypassed by 10 nano farads in a mixer ckt.
:
:Mike M.
:
::Hello All,
:: Can anyone see the value of C11 on this schematic?
::
::http://oldtech.net/German/7000-USA.gif
::
::It looks like a .22 mf capacitor but it's so illegable that I'm not sure. The value on the actual capacitor is also almost completely illegable too. It's on the cathode so I don't think it will affect the audio much if it's a .022, .1 or .22. I'm almost done with the restoration so I'm using a .22. The referenced schematic looks similar to the chassis I'm working on, which only has a serial number on it. The serial number starts with 1032 but doubt that that's a model numbe. It seems more like the Grundig 7000 to me.
::
::Thanks,
::
::Dave
Thanks,
Dave
:Mike,
: I used a .22 and it works fine. Another problem is that I hear nothing from the tweeters. Is that how they're supposed to work? There are plenty of high frequencies but all the sound is produced by the main speaker. What could be wrong if the tweeters aren't operational? I have replaced every paper and electrolytic capacitor in the set. I can make the tweeters make a crackle sound by trying to measure voltage or resistance on them when the radio is on. But that's about it. I know that they work without the speaker transformer, directly connected to a high voltage and output.
:
:Thanks,
:
:Dave
::Dave,
::
::It could possibly be 22 nano farads (.022 uf)
::
::I've seen other schematics where the ECH81 cathode is bypassed by 10 nano farads in a mixer ckt.
::
::Mike M.
::
:::Hello All,
::: Can anyone see the value of C11 on this schematic?
:::
:::http://oldtech.net/German/7000-USA.gif
:::
:::It looks like a .22 mf capacitor but it's so illegable that I'm not sure. The value on the actual capacitor is also almost completely illegable too. It's on the cathode so I don't think it will affect the audio much if it's a .022, .1 or .22. I'm almost done with the restoration so I'm using a .22. The referenced schematic looks similar to the chassis I'm working on, which only has a serial number on it. The serial number starts with 1032 but doubt that that's a model numbe. It seems more like the Grundig 7000 to me.
:::
:::Thanks,
:::
:::Dave
Thanks,
Dave
:Mike,
: The 22K ohm resistor is fine. I see what looks like a 1nf or 1mf on the schematic. However it was a .001 mf capacitor that was connected to the 22K ohm resistor. Maybe someone replaced it before but maybe it should be a 1 mf capacitor.
:
:Thanks,
:
:Dave
::Mike,
:: I used a .22 and it works fine. Another problem is that I hear nothing from the tweeters. Is that how they're supposed to work? There are plenty of high frequencies but all the sound is produced by the main speaker. What could be wrong if the tweeters aren't operational? I have replaced every paper and electrolytic capacitor in the set. I can make the tweeters make a crackle sound by trying to measure voltage or resistance on them when the radio is on. But that's about it. I know that they work without the speaker transformer, directly connected to a high voltage and output.
::
::Thanks,
::
::Dave
:::Dave,
:::
:::It could possibly be 22 nano farads (.022 uf)
:::
:::I've seen other schematics where the ECH81 cathode is bypassed by 10 nano farads in a mixer ckt.
:::
:::Mike M.
:::
::::Hello All,
:::: Can anyone see the value of C11 on this schematic?
::::
::::http://oldtech.net/German/7000-USA.gif
::::
::::It looks like a .22 mf capacitor but it's so illegable that I'm not sure. The value on the actual capacitor is also almost completely illegable too. It's on the cathode so I don't think it will affect the audio much if it's a .022, .1 or .22. I'm almost done with the restoration so I'm using a .22. The referenced schematic looks similar to the chassis I'm working on, which only has a serial number on it. The serial number starts with 1032 but doubt that that's a model numbe. It seems more like the Grundig 7000 to me.
::::
::::Thanks,
::::
::::Dave
Thanks,
Dave
:Mike,
: I tried a 1mf capacitor but it was too much and it resulted in sparking. So I tried a .01 and with a slight pressure on the mesh, it works. So that's enough so it can vibrate the ribbon. I tried .1 and that was again too much. But maybe .022, .033 or .047 will work better. Maybe when the unit is screwed into place in the cabinet it will flex the front mesh so that it is close enough to the ribbon to work.
:
:Thanks,
:
:Dave
::Mike,
:: The 22K ohm resistor is fine. I see what looks like a 1nf or 1mf on the schematic. However it was a .001 mf capacitor that was connected to the 22K ohm resistor. Maybe someone replaced it before but maybe it should be a 1 mf capacitor.
::
::Thanks,
::
::Dave
:::Mike,
::: I used a .22 and it works fine. Another problem is that I hear nothing from the tweeters. Is that how they're supposed to work? There are plenty of high frequencies but all the sound is produced by the main speaker. What could be wrong if the tweeters aren't operational? I have replaced every paper and electrolytic capacitor in the set. I can make the tweeters make a crackle sound by trying to measure voltage or resistance on them when the radio is on. But that's about it. I know that they work without the speaker transformer, directly connected to a high voltage and output.
:::
:::Thanks,
:::
:::Dave
::::Dave,
::::
::::It could possibly be 22 nano farads (.022 uf)
::::
::::I've seen other schematics where the ECH81 cathode is bypassed by 10 nano farads in a mixer ckt.
::::
::::Mike M.
::::
:::::Hello All,
::::: Can anyone see the value of C11 on this schematic?
:::::
:::::http://oldtech.net/German/7000-USA.gif
:::::
:::::It looks like a .22 mf capacitor but it's so illegable that I'm not sure. The value on the actual capacitor is also almost completely illegable too. It's on the cathode so I don't think it will affect the audio much if it's a .022, .1 or .22. I'm almost done with the restoration so I'm using a .22. The referenced schematic looks similar to the chassis I'm working on, which only has a serial number on it. The serial number starts with 1032 but doubt that that's a model numbe. It seems more like the Grundig 7000 to me.
:::::
:::::Thanks,
:::::
:::::Dave
73's de Edd
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------B/T----------------------------------------------------------------------------
:Mike,
: I had a little canned air so I tried that on the speakers and they worked briefly without external pressure. Now they work intermittently on their own. I am all out of canned air. I'll get more and try to get more dust out of them. Maybe it's dust that's keeping them from working.
:
:Thanks,
:
:Dave
::Mike,
:: I tried a 1mf capacitor but it was too much and it resulted in sparking. So I tried a .01 and with a slight pressure on the mesh, it works. So that's enough so it can vibrate the ribbon. I tried .1 and that was again too much. But maybe .022, .033 or .047 will work better. Maybe when the unit is screwed into place in the cabinet it will flex the front mesh so that it is close enough to the ribbon to work.
::
::Thanks,
::
::Dave
:::Mike,
::: The 22K ohm resistor is fine. I see what looks like a 1nf or 1mf on the schematic. However it was a .001 mf capacitor that was connected to the 22K ohm resistor. Maybe someone replaced it before but maybe it should be a 1 mf capacitor.
:::
:::Thanks,
:::
:::Dave
::::Mike,
:::: I used a .22 and it works fine. Another problem is that I hear nothing from the tweeters. Is that how they're supposed to work? There are plenty of high frequencies but all the sound is produced by the main speaker. What could be wrong if the tweeters aren't operational? I have replaced every paper and electrolytic capacitor in the set. I can make the tweeters make a crackle sound by trying to measure voltage or resistance on them when the radio is on. But that's about it. I know that they work without the speaker transformer, directly connected to a high voltage and output.
::::
::::Thanks,
::::
::::Dave
:::::Dave,
:::::
:::::It could possibly be 22 nano farads (.022 uf)
:::::
:::::I've seen other schematics where the ECH81 cathode is bypassed by 10 nano farads in a mixer ckt.
:::::
:::::Mike M.
:::::
::::::Hello All,
:::::: Can anyone see the value of C11 on this schematic?
::::::
::::::http://oldtech.net/German/7000-USA.gif
::::::
::::::It looks like a .22 mf capacitor but it's so illegable that I'm not sure. The value on the actual capacitor is also almost completely illegable too. It's on the cathode so I don't think it will affect the audio much if it's a .022, .1 or .22. I'm almost done with the restoration so I'm using a .22. The referenced schematic looks similar to the chassis I'm working on, which only has a serial number on it. The serial number starts with 1032 but doubt that that's a model numbe. It seems more like the Grundig 7000 to me.
::::::
::::::Thanks,
::::::
::::::Dave
Thanks,
Dave
:Electrostatic tweeters.........they reproduce only the high sybillant audio and musical sounds. To really evaluate, disconnect your woofer and sub in a dummy load resistor of ~ proper Z to keep a loading upon the output transformer and then listen to your tweeters tweet as you up the volume......they aren't really that loud as to be easily distinguished above the main audio from the woofer / squawker.......they merely slip in a slight degree of treble enhancement.
:
:73's de Edd
:
:-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------B/T----------------------------------------------------------------------------
:
::Mike,
:: I had a little canned air so I tried that on the speakers and they worked briefly without external pressure. Now they work intermittently on their own. I am all out of canned air. I'll get more and try to get more dust out of them. Maybe it's dust that's keeping them from working.
::
::Thanks,
::
::Dave
:::Mike,
::: I tried a 1mf capacitor but it was too much and it resulted in sparking. So I tried a .01 and with a slight pressure on the mesh, it works. So that's enough so it can vibrate the ribbon. I tried .1 and that was again too much. But maybe .022, .033 or .047 will work better. Maybe when the unit is screwed into place in the cabinet it will flex the front mesh so that it is close enough to the ribbon to work.
:::
:::Thanks,
:::
:::Dave
::::Mike,
:::: The 22K ohm resistor is fine. I see what looks like a 1nf or 1mf on the schematic. However it was a .001 mf capacitor that was connected to the 22K ohm resistor. Maybe someone replaced it before but maybe it should be a 1 mf capacitor.
::::
::::Thanks,
::::
::::Dave
:::::Mike,
::::: I used a .22 and it works fine. Another problem is that I hear nothing from the tweeters. Is that how they're supposed to work? There are plenty of high frequencies but all the sound is produced by the main speaker. What could be wrong if the tweeters aren't operational? I have replaced every paper and electrolytic capacitor in the set. I can make the tweeters make a crackle sound by trying to measure voltage or resistance on them when the radio is on. But that's about it. I know that they work without the speaker transformer, directly connected to a high voltage and output.
:::::
:::::Thanks,
:::::
:::::Dave
::::::Dave,
::::::
::::::It could possibly be 22 nano farads (.022 uf)
::::::
::::::I've seen other schematics where the ECH81 cathode is bypassed by 10 nano farads in a mixer ckt.
::::::
::::::Mike M.
::::::
:::::::Hello All,
::::::: Can anyone see the value of C11 on this schematic?
:::::::
:::::::http://oldtech.net/German/7000-USA.gif
:::::::
:::::::It looks like a .22 mf capacitor but it's so illegable that I'm not sure. The value on the actual capacitor is also almost completely illegable too. It's on the cathode so I don't think it will affect the audio much if it's a .022, .1 or .22. I'm almost done with the restoration so I'm using a .22. The referenced schematic looks similar to the chassis I'm working on, which only has a serial number on it. The serial number starts with 1032 but doubt that that's a model numbe. It seems more like the Grundig 7000 to me.
:::::::
:::::::Thanks,
:::::::
:::::::Dave
Dave
:Edd,
: I did hear them. They sounded pretty good to me. If they would just stay on it would be great. Maybe just a little dust is getting in the way. I can hear them even if the main speaker is on. I have very good hearing. Even the main speaker has good highs.
:
:Thanks,
:
:Dave
::Electrostatic tweeters.........they reproduce only the high sybillant audio and musical sounds. To really evaluate, disconnect your woofer and sub in a dummy load resistor of ~ proper Z to keep a loading upon the output transformer and then listen to your tweeters tweet as you up the volume......they aren't really that loud as to be easily distinguished above the main audio from the woofer / squawker.......they merely slip in a slight degree of treble enhancement.
::
::73's de Edd
::
::-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------B/T----------------------------------------------------------------------------
::
:::Mike,
::: I had a little canned air so I tried that on the speakers and they worked briefly without external pressure. Now they work intermittently on their own. I am all out of canned air. I'll get more and try to get more dust out of them. Maybe it's dust that's keeping them from working.
:::
:::Thanks,
:::
:::Dave
::::Mike,
:::: I tried a 1mf capacitor but it was too much and it resulted in sparking. So I tried a .01 and with a slight pressure on the mesh, it works. So that's enough so it can vibrate the ribbon. I tried .1 and that was again too much. But maybe .022, .033 or .047 will work better. Maybe when the unit is screwed into place in the cabinet it will flex the front mesh so that it is close enough to the ribbon to work.
::::
::::Thanks,
::::
::::Dave
:::::Mike,
::::: The 22K ohm resistor is fine. I see what looks like a 1nf or 1mf on the schematic. However it was a .001 mf capacitor that was connected to the 22K ohm resistor. Maybe someone replaced it before but maybe it should be a 1 mf capacitor.
:::::
:::::Thanks,
:::::
:::::Dave
::::::Mike,
:::::: I used a .22 and it works fine. Another problem is that I hear nothing from the tweeters. Is that how they're supposed to work? There are plenty of high frequencies but all the sound is produced by the main speaker. What could be wrong if the tweeters aren't operational? I have replaced every paper and electrolytic capacitor in the set. I can make the tweeters make a crackle sound by trying to measure voltage or resistance on them when the radio is on. But that's about it. I know that they work without the speaker transformer, directly connected to a high voltage and output.
::::::
::::::Thanks,
::::::
::::::Dave
:::::::Dave,
:::::::
:::::::It could possibly be 22 nano farads (.022 uf)
:::::::
:::::::I've seen other schematics where the ECH81 cathode is bypassed by 10 nano farads in a mixer ckt.
:::::::
:::::::Mike M.
:::::::
::::::::Hello All,
:::::::: Can anyone see the value of C11 on this schematic?
::::::::
::::::::http://oldtech.net/German/7000-USA.gif
::::::::
::::::::It looks like a .22 mf capacitor but it's so illegable that I'm not sure. The value on the actual capacitor is also almost completely illegable too. It's on the cathode so I don't think it will affect the audio much if it's a .022, .1 or .22. I'm almost done with the restoration so I'm using a .22. The referenced schematic looks similar to the chassis I'm working on, which only has a serial number on it. The serial number starts with 1032 but doubt that that's a model numbe. It seems more like the Grundig 7000 to me.
::::::::
::::::::Thanks,
::::::::
::::::::Dave
Hi
These speakers are built with a metal coated foil that is contacted by a copper foil. To ensure proper contact, a small foam part was underlayed. That foam disintegrated over time. Simply open the tweeter and replace the foam. Be careful when soldering on the contacts - the foil is heat sensitive.
Kind regards, Walter Haring, Switzerland
Hi Dave
It's a 22nF. I've sent a better readable schematic.
Kind regards from Switzerland, Walter Haring
Thanks again,
Dave
::Hello All,
:: Can anyone see the value of C11 on this schematic?
::
::http://oldtech.net/German/7000-USA.gif
::
::It looks like a .22 mf capacitor but it's so illegable that I'm not sure. The value on the actual capacitor is also almost completely illegable too. It's on the cathode so I don't think it will affect the audio much if it's a .022, .1 or .22. I'm almost done with the restoration so I'm using a .22. The referenced schematic looks similar to the chassis I'm working on, which only has a serial number on it. The serial number starts with 1032 but doubt that that's a model numbe. It seems more like the Grundig 7000 to me.
::
::Thanks,
::
::Dave
:
:
:Hi Dave
:
:It's a 22nF. I've sent a better readable schematic.
:
:Kind regards from Switzerland, Walter Haring