Admiral 26X55

5/27/2007 4:47:00 PMDave Froehlich

Norm,
The owner of that tv just picked it up from me a while ago. I have relayed your answer to him. I can also tell him where this forum is, so he can tell us what's going on with his set.

Thanks,

:Dave
:
: May be Horizontal Output tube? Testing on a tube tester doesn't mean much with this one.
:
: Does the TV have a horizontal drive control? If so try this adjustment.
:
: You mentioned damper. Another tube that's not tested right on a tube tester. Damper tubes are rated for high voltage & current. Try another one if you have it. Not sure what's used in your TV but most dampers are somewhat interchangeable. A 6W4 can be replaced with 6AX4, 6AU4 or others with the same basing. Some draw more filament current.
:
:Norm
:
::Hello All,
:: At one time, recently, this set worked fine. Then I borrowed some tubes from it. Now when I put replacement tubes where I borrowed them I get vertical light lines and the horizontal linearity is messed up where the lines are. What tube might be bad even though good on the tube tester?
:: This doesn't make any sense. It looks like the problem is in the horizontal section, however I've seen funny problems like this when the rectifier is bad. But then again it could be the damper tube. The picture is clear other than that.
::
::Thanks,
::
::Dave

6/1/2007 11:20:20 PMDave Froehlich

Norm, Edd,
I cannot find www.samswebsite.com online anymore. I can't find my printed index. Do you know what folder this set's in? I think it needs a resistor replaced, which has drifted down in value. This symptom is shown in one of the small red rca troubleshooting books (Pict-O-Guide). If I knew where this resistor was in the Admiral, that might solve the problem.

Thanks,

Dave
:Norm,
: The owner of that tv just picked it up from me a while ago. I have relayed your answer to him. I can also tell him where this forum is, so he can tell us what's going on with his set.
:
:Thanks,
:
::Dave
::
:: May be Horizontal Output tube? Testing on a tube tester doesn't mean much with this one.
::
:: Does the TV have a horizontal drive control? If so try this adjustment.
::
:: You mentioned damper. Another tube that's not tested right on a tube tester. Damper tubes are rated for high voltage & current. Try another one if you have it. Not sure what's used in your TV but most dampers are somewhat interchangeable. A 6W4 can be replaced with 6AX4, 6AU4 or others with the same basing. Some draw more filament current.
::
::Norm
::
:::Hello All,
::: At one time, recently, this set worked fine. Then I borrowed some tubes from it. Now when I put replacement tubes where I borrowed them I get vertical light lines and the horizontal linearity is messed up where the lines are. What tube might be bad even though good on the tube tester?
::: This doesn't make any sense. It looks like the problem is in the horizontal section, however I've seen funny problems like this when the rectifier is bad. But then again it could be the damper tube. The picture is clear other than that.
:::
:::Thanks,
:::
:::Dave

6/1/2007 11:40:53 PMNorm Leal

Dave

Admiral 26X55 is in Sam's Photofact 103-2. If you have 26X55A it's in 118-2.

I couldn't find Sam's site either.

Norm

:Norm, Edd,
: I cannot find www.samswebsite.com online anymore. I can't find my printed index. Do you know what folder this set's in? I think it needs a resistor replaced, which has drifted down in value. This symptom is shown in one of the small red rca troubleshooting books (Pict-O-Guide). If I knew where this resistor was in the Admiral, that might solve the problem.
:
:Thanks,
:
:Dave
::Norm,
:: The owner of that tv just picked it up from me a while ago. I have relayed your answer to him. I can also tell him where this forum is, so he can tell us what's going on with his set.
::
::Thanks,
::
:::Dave
:::
::: May be Horizontal Output tube? Testing on a tube tester doesn't mean much with this one.
:::
::: Does the TV have a horizontal drive control? If so try this adjustment.
:::
::: You mentioned damper. Another tube that's not tested right on a tube tester. Damper tubes are rated for high voltage & current. Try another one if you have it. Not sure what's used in your TV but most dampers are somewhat interchangeable. A 6W4 can be replaced with 6AX4, 6AU4 or others with the same basing. Some draw more filament current.
:::
:::Norm
:::
::::Hello All,
:::: At one time, recently, this set worked fine. Then I borrowed some tubes from it. Now when I put replacement tubes where I borrowed them I get vertical light lines and the horizontal linearity is messed up where the lines are. What tube might be bad even though good on the tube tester?
:::: This doesn't make any sense. It looks like the problem is in the horizontal section, however I've seen funny problems like this when the rectifier is bad. But then again it could be the damper tube. The picture is clear other than that.
::::
::::Thanks,
::::
::::Dave

6/2/2007 12:52:26 AMDave Froehlich

Norm,
Edd probably has a copy of it. What the pict-o-guide refers to is the plate resistor of the horizontal discharge tube. This is the tube that drives the horizontal out put tube. Does this tube have another name? I assume that it's one of the 6SN7s. The Symptom is called HD-2 and it's on page 13. I would assume that the Admiral has a similar horizontal deflection circuit.

Thanks,

Dave.
:Dave
:
:Admiral 26X55 is in Sam's Photofact 103-2. If you have 26X55A it's in 118-2.
:
: I couldn't find Sam's site either.
:
:Norm
:
:
::Norm, Edd,
:: I cannot find www.samswebsite.com online anymore. I can't find my printed index. Do you know what folder this set's in? I think it needs a resistor replaced, which has drifted down in value. This symptom is shown in one of the small red rca troubleshooting books (Pict-O-Guide). If I knew where this resistor was in the Admiral, that might solve the problem.
::
::Thanks,
::
::Dave
:::Norm,
::: The owner of that tv just picked it up from me a while ago. I have relayed your answer to him. I can also tell him where this forum is, so he can tell us what's going on with his set.
:::
:::Thanks,
:::
::::Dave
::::
:::: May be Horizontal Output tube? Testing on a tube tester doesn't mean much with this one.
::::
:::: Does the TV have a horizontal drive control? If so try this adjustment.
::::
:::: You mentioned damper. Another tube that's not tested right on a tube tester. Damper tubes are rated for high voltage & current. Try another one if you have it. Not sure what's used in your TV but most dampers are somewhat interchangeable. A 6W4 can be replaced with 6AX4, 6AU4 or others with the same basing. Some draw more filament current.
::::
::::Norm
::::
:::::Hello All,
::::: At one time, recently, this set worked fine. Then I borrowed some tubes from it. Now when I put replacement tubes where I borrowed them I get vertical light lines and the horizontal linearity is messed up where the lines are. What tube might be bad even though good on the tube tester?
::::: This doesn't make any sense. It looks like the problem is in the horizontal section, however I've seen funny problems like this when the rectifier is bad. But then again it could be the damper tube. The picture is clear other than that.
:::::
:::::Thanks,
:::::
:::::Dave

6/2/2007 12:15:43 PMchip

:Norm,
: Edd probably has a copy of it. What the pict-o-guide refers to is the plate resistor of the horizontal discharge tube. This is the tube that drives the horizontal out put tube. Does this tube have another name? I assume that it's one of the 6SN7s. The Symptom is called HD-2 and it's on page 13. I would assume that the Admiral has a similar horizontal deflection circuit.
:
:Thanks,
:
:Dave.
::Dave
::
::Admiral 26X55 is in Sam's Photofact 103-2. If you have 26X55A it's in 118-2.
::
:: I couldn't find Sam's site either.
::
::Norm
::
::
:::Norm, Edd,
::: I cannot find www.samswebsite.com online anymore. I can't find my printed index. Do you know what folder this set's in? I think it needs a resistor replaced, which has drifted down in value. This symptom is shown in one of the small red rca troubleshooting books (Pict-O-Guide). If I knew where this resistor was in the Admiral, that might solve the problem.
:::
:::Thanks,
:::
:::Dave
::::Norm,
:::: The owner of that tv just picked it up from me a while ago. I have relayed your answer to him. I can also tell him where this forum is, so he can tell us what's going on with his set.
::::
::::Thanks,
::::
:::::Dave
:::::
::::: May be Horizontal Output tube? Testing on a tube tester doesn't mean much with this one.
:::::
::::: Does the TV have a horizontal drive control? If so try this adjustment.
:::::
::::: You mentioned damper. Another tube that's not tested right on a tube tester. Damper tubes are rated for high voltage & current. Try another one if you have it. Not sure what's used in your TV but most dampers are somewhat interchangeable. A 6W4 can be replaced with 6AX4, 6AU4 or others with the same basing. Some draw more filament current.
:::::
:::::Norm
:::::
::::::Hello All,
:::::: At one time, recently, this set worked fine. Then I borrowed some tubes from it. Now when I put replacement tubes where I borrowed them I get vertical light lines and the horizontal linearity is messed up where the lines are. What tube might be bad even though good on the tube tester?
:::::: This doesn't make any sense. It looks like the problem is in the horizontal section, however I've seen funny problems like this when the rectifier is bad. But then again it could be the damper tube. The picture is clear other than that.
::::::
::::::Thanks,
::::::
::::::Dave

6/2/2007 6:01:56 PMEdd

Also known as AFC control ..where the sync-to-osc circuit comparison is matched and
fed back back at the discriminator output and the detected DC voltage difference is
used to continually "tweak" the hoz osc circuit into syncronization . can't scan till next week BUT the plate resistor of the
6SN7 mentioned is 5600 ohms, and i would suggest a metal film 1 watt unbit to replace it with.
It usually runs WARM.

73's de Edd
::Norm,
:: Edd probably has a copy of it. What the pict-o-guide refers to is the plate resistor of the horizontal discharge tube. This is the tube that drives the horizontal out put tube. Does this tube have another name? I assume that it's one of the 6SN7s. The Symptom is called HD-2 and it's on page 13. I would assume that the Admiral has a similar horizontal deflection circuit.
::
::Thanks,
::
::Dave.
:::Dave
:::
:::Admiral 26X55 is in Sam's Photofact 103-2. If you have 26X55A it's in 118-2.
:::
::: I couldn't find Sam's site either.
:::
:::Norm
:::
:::
::::Norm, Edd,
:::: I cannot find www.samswebsite.com online anymore. I can't find my printed index. Do you know what folder this set's in? I think it needs a resistor replaced, which has drifted down in value. This symptom is shown in one of the small red rca troubleshooting books (Pict-O-Guide). If I knew where this resistor was in the Admiral, that might solve the problem.
::::
::::Thanks,
::::
::::Dave
:::::Norm,
::::: The owner of that tv just picked it up from me a while ago. I have relayed your answer to him. I can also tell him where this forum is, so he can tell us what's going on with his set.
:::::
:::::Thanks,
:::::
::::::Dave
::::::
:::::: May be Horizontal Output tube? Testing on a tube tester doesn't mean much with this one.
::::::
:::::: Does the TV have a horizontal drive control? If so try this adjustment.
::::::
:::::: You mentioned damper. Another tube that's not tested right on a tube tester. Damper tubes are rated for high voltage & current. Try another one if you have it. Not sure what's used in your TV but most dampers are somewhat interchangeable. A 6W4 can be replaced with 6AX4, 6AU4 or others with the same basing. Some draw more filament current.
::::::
::::::Norm
::::::
:::::::Hello All,
::::::: At one time, recently, this set worked fine. Then I borrowed some tubes from it. Now when I put replacement tubes where I borrowed them I get vertical light lines and the horizontal linearity is messed up where the lines are. What tube might be bad even though good on the tube tester?
::::::: This doesn't make any sense. It looks like the problem is in the horizontal section, however I've seen funny problems like this when the rectifier is bad. But then again it could be the damper tube. The picture is clear other than that.
:::::::
:::::::Thanks,
:::::::
:::::::Dave

6/2/2007 8:19:15 PMDave Froehlich

Edd,
Do you have the RCA pict-o-guide? If you do it's the HD-2 symptom.
I could scan the page or e-mail the picture of the actual symptom from Chip to you.

Thanks,

Dave
:Also known as AFC control ..where the sync-to-osc circuit comparison is matched and
:fed back back at the discriminator output and the detected DC voltage difference is
:used to continually "tweak" the hoz osc circuit into syncronization . can't scan till next week BUT the plate resistor of the
:6SN7 mentioned is 5600 ohms, and i would suggest a metal film 1 watt unbit to replace it with.
:It usually runs WARM.
:
:73's de Edd
:::Norm,
::: Edd probably has a copy of it. What the pict-o-guide refers to is the plate resistor of the horizontal discharge tube. This is the tube that drives the horizontal out put tube. Does this tube have another name? I assume that it's one of the 6SN7s. The Symptom is called HD-2 and it's on page 13. I would assume that the Admiral has a similar horizontal deflection circuit.
:::
:::Thanks,
:::
:::Dave.
::::Dave
::::
::::Admiral 26X55 is in Sam's Photofact 103-2. If you have 26X55A it's in 118-2.
::::
:::: I couldn't find Sam's site either.
::::
::::Norm
::::
::::
:::::Norm, Edd,
::::: I cannot find www.samswebsite.com online anymore. I can't find my printed index. Do you know what folder this set's in? I think it needs a resistor replaced, which has drifted down in value. This symptom is shown in one of the small red rca troubleshooting books (Pict-O-Guide). If I knew where this resistor was in the Admiral, that might solve the problem.
:::::
:::::Thanks,
:::::
:::::Dave
::::::Norm,
:::::: The owner of that tv just picked it up from me a while ago. I have relayed your answer to him. I can also tell him where this forum is, so he can tell us what's going on with his set.
::::::
::::::Thanks,
::::::
:::::::Dave
:::::::
::::::: May be Horizontal Output tube? Testing on a tube tester doesn't mean much with this one.
:::::::
::::::: Does the TV have a horizontal drive control? If so try this adjustment.
:::::::
::::::: You mentioned damper. Another tube that's not tested right on a tube tester. Damper tubes are rated for high voltage & current. Try another one if you have it. Not sure what's used in your TV but most dampers are somewhat interchangeable. A 6W4 can be replaced with 6AX4, 6AU4 or others with the same basing. Some draw more filament current.
:::::::
:::::::Norm
:::::::
::::::::Hello All,
:::::::: At one time, recently, this set worked fine. Then I borrowed some tubes from it. Now when I put replacement tubes where I borrowed them I get vertical light lines and the horizontal linearity is messed up where the lines are. What tube might be bad even though good on the tube tester?
:::::::: This doesn't make any sense. It looks like the problem is in the horizontal section, however I've seen funny problems like this when the rectifier is bad. But then again it could be the damper tube. The picture is clear other than that.
::::::::
::::::::Thanks,
::::::::
::::::::Dave

6/2/2007 9:20:14 PMDave Froehlich

Edd,
This is the Admiral 26X55A. Next week is fine for the SAMs.

Thanks very much,

6/4/2007 8:08:49 PMEdd

Herewith.... the schema of your units vert and hoz circuits, the questoned plate resistor being of a 5.6K value.
Schema ref:
http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/1709/hozswpcktsaa9.jpg

Also, confirm that there are no high ESR caps that have developed at the green marked up areas.

If you want to PRECISELY "zero-beat" the hoz sync circuit frequency, unplug the 6AL5 and adjust the hoz frequency control while watching the incoming picure for minumal lateral drift of the black hoz sync bar that will be present on the screen.

73's de Edd

-----------------------------------------------------------------BT----------------------------------------------------------------

:Edd,
: This is the Admiral 26X55A. Next week is fine for the SAMs.
:
:Thanks very much,
:
:Dave
::Also known as AFC control ..where the sync-to-osc circuit comparison is matched and
::fed back back at the discriminator output and the detected DC voltage difference is
::used to continually "tweak" the hoz osc circuit into syncronization . can't scan till next week BUT the plate resistor of the
::6SN7 mentioned is 5600 ohms, and i would suggest a metal film 1 watt unbit to replace it with.
::It usually runs WARM.
::
::73's de Edd
::::Norm,
:::: Edd probably has a copy of it. What the pict-o-guide refers to is the plate resistor of the horizontal discharge tube. This is the tube that drives the horizontal out put tube. Does this tube have another name? I assume that it's one of the 6SN7s. The Symptom is called HD-2 and it's on page 13. I would assume that the Admiral has a similar horizontal deflection circuit.
::::
::::Thanks,
::::
::::Dave.
:::::Dave
:::::
:::::Admiral 26X55 is in Sam's Photofact 103-2. If you have 26X55A it's in 118-2.
:::::
::::: I couldn't find Sam's site either.
:::::
:::::Norm
:::::
:::::
::::::Norm, Edd,
:::::: I cannot find www.samswebsite.com online anymore. I can't find my printed index. Do you know what folder this set's in? I think it needs a resistor replaced, which has drifted down in value. This symptom is shown in one of the small red rca troubleshooting books (Pict-O-Guide). If I knew where this resistor was in the Admiral, that might solve the problem.
::::::
::::::Thanks,
::::::
::::::Dave
:::::::Norm,
::::::: The owner of that tv just picked it up from me a while ago. I have relayed your answer to him. I can also tell him where this forum is, so he can tell us what's going on with his set.
:::::::
:::::::Thanks,
:::::::
::::::::Dave
::::::::
:::::::: May be Horizontal Output tube? Testing on a tube tester doesn't mean much with this one.
::::::::
:::::::: Does the TV have a horizontal drive control? If so try this adjustment.
::::::::
:::::::: You mentioned damper. Another tube that's not tested right on a tube tester. Damper tubes are rated for high voltage & current. Try another one if you have it. Not sure what's used in your TV but most dampers are somewhat interchangeable. A 6W4 can be replaced with 6AX4, 6AU4 or others with the same basing. Some draw more filament current.
::::::::
::::::::Norm
::::::::
:::::::::Hello All,
::::::::: At one time, recently, this set worked fine. Then I borrowed some tubes from it. Now when I put replacement tubes where I borrowed them I get vertical light lines and the horizontal linearity is messed up where the lines are. What tube might be bad even though good on the tube tester?
::::::::: This doesn't make any sense. It looks like the problem is in the horizontal section, however I've seen funny problems like this when the rectifier is bad. But then again it could be the damper tube. The picture is clear other than that.
:::::::::
:::::::::Thanks,
:::::::::
:::::::::Dave

6/5/2007 12:53:03 PMDave Froehlich

Edd,
I think that the RCA Pict-O-Guide is talking about the 220K ohm resistor, which would be the same as R87 in the Admiral. I think that pin 5 is on the horizontal discharge section of the 6SN7. Am I correct? I'm trying to find the equivalent resistor in both schematics.

Thanks,

Dave
:Herewith.... the schema of your units vert and hoz circuits, the questoned plate resistor being of a 5.6K value.
:Schema ref:
:http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/1709/hozswpcktsaa9.jpg
:
:Also, confirm that there are no high ESR caps that have developed at the green marked up areas.
:
:If you want to PRECISELY "zero-beat" the hoz sync circuit frequency, unplug the 6AL5 and adjust the hoz frequency control while watching the incoming picure for minumal lateral drift of the black hoz sync bar that will be present on the screen.
:
:73's de Edd
:
:-----------------------------------------------------------------BT----------------------------------------------------------------
:
:
:
:
:
:
::Edd,
:: This is the Admiral 26X55A. Next week is fine for the SAMs.
::
::Thanks very much,
::
::Dave
:::Also known as AFC control ..where the sync-to-osc circuit comparison is matched and
:::fed back back at the discriminator output and the detected DC voltage difference is
:::used to continually "tweak" the hoz osc circuit into syncronization . can't scan till next week BUT the plate resistor of the
:::6SN7 mentioned is 5600 ohms, and i would suggest a metal film 1 watt unbit to replace it with.
:::It usually runs WARM.
:::
:::73's de Edd
:::::Norm,
::::: Edd probably has a copy of it. What the pict-o-guide refers to is the plate resistor of the horizontal discharge tube. This is the tube that drives the horizontal out put tube. Does this tube have another name? I assume that it's one of the 6SN7s. The Symptom is called HD-2 and it's on page 13. I would assume that the Admiral has a similar horizontal deflection circuit.
:::::
:::::Thanks,
:::::
:::::Dave.
::::::Dave
::::::
::::::Admiral 26X55 is in Sam's Photofact 103-2. If you have 26X55A it's in 118-2.
::::::
:::::: I couldn't find Sam's site either.
::::::
::::::Norm
::::::
::::::
:::::::Norm, Edd,
::::::: I cannot find www.samswebsite.com online anymore. I can't find my printed index. Do you know what folder this set's in? I think it needs a resistor replaced, which has drifted down in value. This symptom is shown in one of the small red rca troubleshooting books (Pict-O-Guide). If I knew where this resistor was in the Admiral, that might solve the problem.
:::::::
:::::::Thanks,
:::::::
:::::::Dave
::::::::Norm,
:::::::: The owner of that tv just picked it up from me a while ago. I have relayed your answer to him. I can also tell him where this forum is, so he can tell us what's going on with his set.
::::::::
::::::::Thanks,
::::::::
:::::::::Dave
:::::::::
::::::::: May be Horizontal Output tube? Testing on a tube tester doesn't mean much with this one.
:::::::::
::::::::: Does the TV have a horizontal drive control? If so try this adjustment.
:::::::::
::::::::: You mentioned damper. Another tube that's not tested right on a tube tester. Damper tubes are rated for high voltage & current. Try another one if you have it. Not sure what's used in your TV but most dampers are somewhat interchangeable. A 6W4 can be replaced with 6AX4, 6AU4 or others with the same basing. Some draw more filament current.
:::::::::
:::::::::Norm
:::::::::
::::::::::Hello All,
:::::::::: At one time, recently, this set worked fine. Then I borrowed some tubes from it. Now when I put replacement tubes where I borrowed them I get vertical light lines and the horizontal linearity is messed up where the lines are. What tube might be bad even though good on the tube tester?
:::::::::: This doesn't make any sense. It looks like the problem is in the horizontal section, however I've seen funny problems like this when the rectifier is bad. But then again it could be the damper tube. The picture is clear other than that.
::::::::::
::::::::::Thanks,
::::::::::
::::::::::Dave

6/5/2007 1:54:36 PMEdd

You are correct with that terminology, the triode section to the left is associated with the AFC aspect of the oscillator, while the tubes triode section to the right is the discharge...aka...driver section.
That 220 K plate resistor, with its higher resistive value, along with the hammering that it receives from its waveform created, tends to walk in its resistive value with time.

73's de Edd

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------B/T----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

:Edd,
: I think that the RCA Pict-O-Guide is talking about the 220K ohm resistor, which would be the same as R87 in the Admiral. I think that pin 5 is on the horizontal discharge section of the 6SN7. Am I correct? I'm trying to find the equivalent resistor in both schematics.
:
:Thanks,
:
:Dave
::Herewith.... the schema of your units vert and hoz circuits, the questoned plate resistor being of a 5.6K value.
::Schema ref:
::http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/1709/hozswpcktsaa9.jpg
::
::Also, confirm that there are no high ESR caps that have developed at the green marked up areas.
::
::If you want to PRECISELY "zero-beat" the hoz sync circuit frequency, unplug the 6AL5 and adjust the hoz frequency control while watching the incoming picure for minumal lateral drift of the black hoz sync bar that will be present on the screen.
::
::73's de Edd
::
::-----------------------------------------------------------------BT----------------------------------------------------------------
::
::
::
::
::
::
:::Edd,
::: This is the Admiral 26X55A. Next week is fine for the SAMs.
:::
:::Thanks very much,
:::
:::Dave
::::Also known as AFC control ..where the sync-to-osc circuit comparison is matched and
::::fed back back at the discriminator output and the detected DC voltage difference is
::::used to continually "tweak" the hoz osc circuit into syncronization . can't scan till next week BUT the plate resistor of the
::::6SN7 mentioned is 5600 ohms, and i would suggest a metal film 1 watt unbit to replace it with.
::::It usually runs WARM.
::::
::::73's de Edd
::::::Norm,
:::::: Edd probably has a copy of it. What the pict-o-guide refers to is the plate resistor of the horizontal discharge tube. This is the tube that drives the horizontal out put tube. Does this tube have another name? I assume that it's one of the 6SN7s. The Symptom is called HD-2 and it's on page 13. I would assume that the Admiral has a similar horizontal deflection circuit.
::::::
::::::Thanks,
::::::
::::::Dave.
:::::::Dave
:::::::
:::::::Admiral 26X55 is in Sam's Photofact 103-2. If you have 26X55A it's in 118-2.
:::::::
::::::: I couldn't find Sam's site either.
:::::::
:::::::Norm
:::::::
:::::::
::::::::Norm, Edd,
:::::::: I cannot find www.samswebsite.com online anymore. I can't find my printed index. Do you know what folder this set's in? I think it needs a resistor replaced, which has drifted down in value. This symptom is shown in one of the small red rca troubleshooting books (Pict-O-Guide). If I knew where this resistor was in the Admiral, that might solve the problem.
::::::::
::::::::Thanks,
::::::::
::::::::Dave
:::::::::Norm,
::::::::: The owner of that tv just picked it up from me a while ago. I have relayed your answer to him. I can also tell him where this forum is, so he can tell us what's going on with his set.
:::::::::
:::::::::Thanks,
:::::::::
::::::::::Dave
::::::::::
:::::::::: May be Horizontal Output tube? Testing on a tube tester doesn't mean much with this one.
::::::::::
:::::::::: Does the TV have a horizontal drive control? If so try this adjustment.
::::::::::
:::::::::: You mentioned damper. Another tube that's not tested right on a tube tester. Damper tubes are rated for high voltage & current. Try another one if you have it. Not sure what's used in your TV but most dampers are somewhat interchangeable. A 6W4 can be replaced with 6AX4, 6AU4 or others with the same basing. Some draw more filament current.
::::::::::
::::::::::Norm
::::::::::
:::::::::::Hello All,
::::::::::: At one time, recently, this set worked fine. Then I borrowed some tubes from it. Now when I put replacement tubes where I borrowed them I get vertical light lines and the horizontal linearity is messed up where the lines are. What tube might be bad even though good on the tube tester?
::::::::::: This doesn't make any sense. It looks like the problem is in the horizontal section, however I've seen funny problems like this when the rectifier is bad. But then again it could be the damper tube. The picture is clear other than that.
:::::::::::
:::::::::::Thanks,
:::::::::::
:::::::::::Dave

6/7/2007 10:20:42 PMDave Froehlich

Edd,
Whenever you are ready Chip and I are still waiting for the Photo from the Photofact so we can see where R87 actually is.
There is also a very tiny mica capacitor that could also cause the problem. This is spoken about in volume 2 of the RCA Pict-O-Guide.

Thanks,

Dave
:You are correct with that terminology, the triode section to the left is associated with the AFC aspect of the oscillator, while the tubes triode section to the right is the discharge...aka...driver section.
:That 220 K plate resistor, with its higher resistive value, along with the hammering that it receives from its waveform created, tends to walk in its resistive value with time.
:
:73's de Edd
:
:---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------B/T----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
:
:
::Edd,
:: I think that the RCA Pict-O-Guide is talking about the 220K ohm resistor, which would be the same as R87 in the Admiral. I think that pin 5 is on the horizontal discharge section of the 6SN7. Am I correct? I'm trying to find the equivalent resistor in both schematics.
::
::Thanks,
::
::Dave
:::Herewith.... the schema of your units vert and hoz circuits, the questoned plate resistor being of a 5.6K value.
:::Schema ref:
:::http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/1709/hozswpcktsaa9.jpg
:::
:::Also, confirm that there are no high ESR caps that have developed at the green marked up areas.
:::
:::If you want to PRECISELY "zero-beat" the hoz sync circuit frequency, unplug the 6AL5 and adjust the hoz frequency control while watching the incoming picure for minumal lateral drift of the black hoz sync bar that will be present on the screen.
:::
:::73's de Edd
:::
:::-----------------------------------------------------------------BT----------------------------------------------------------------
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
::::Edd,
:::: This is the Admiral 26X55A. Next week is fine for the SAMs.
::::
::::Thanks very much,
::::
::::Dave
:::::Also known as AFC control ..where the sync-to-osc circuit comparison is matched and
:::::fed back back at the discriminator output and the detected DC voltage difference is
:::::used to continually "tweak" the hoz osc circuit into syncronization . can't scan till next week BUT the plate resistor of the
:::::6SN7 mentioned is 5600 ohms, and i would suggest a metal film 1 watt unbit to replace it with.
:::::It usually runs WARM.
:::::
:::::73's de Edd
:::::::Norm,
::::::: Edd probably has a copy of it. What the pict-o-guide refers to is the plate resistor of the horizontal discharge tube. This is the tube that drives the horizontal out put tube. Does this tube have another name? I assume that it's one of the 6SN7s. The Symptom is called HD-2 and it's on page 13. I would assume that the Admiral has a similar horizontal deflection circuit.
:::::::
:::::::Thanks,
:::::::
:::::::Dave.
::::::::Dave
::::::::
::::::::Admiral 26X55 is in Sam's Photofact 103-2. If you have 26X55A it's in 118-2.
::::::::
:::::::: I couldn't find Sam's site either.
::::::::
::::::::Norm
::::::::
::::::::
:::::::::Norm, Edd,
::::::::: I cannot find www.samswebsite.com online anymore. I can't find my printed index. Do you know what folder this set's in? I think it needs a resistor replaced, which has drifted down in value. This symptom is shown in one of the small red rca troubleshooting books (Pict-O-Guide). If I knew where this resistor was in the Admiral, that might solve the problem.
:::::::::
:::::::::Thanks,
:::::::::
:::::::::Dave
::::::::::Norm,
:::::::::: The owner of that tv just picked it up from me a while ago. I have relayed your answer to him. I can also tell him where this forum is, so he can tell us what's going on with his set.
::::::::::
::::::::::Thanks,
::::::::::
:::::::::::Dave
:::::::::::
::::::::::: May be Horizontal Output tube? Testing on a tube tester doesn't mean much with this one.
:::::::::::
::::::::::: Does the TV have a horizontal drive control? If so try this adjustment.
:::::::::::
::::::::::: You mentioned damper. Another tube that's not tested right on a tube tester. Damper tubes are rated for high voltage & current. Try another one if you have it. Not sure what's used in your TV but most dampers are somewhat interchangeable. A 6W4 can be replaced with 6AX4, 6AU4 or others with the same basing. Some draw more filament current.
:::::::::::
:::::::::::Norm
:::::::::::
::::::::::::Hello All,
:::::::::::: At one time, recently, this set worked fine. Then I borrowed some tubes from it. Now when I put replacement tubes where I borrowed them I get vertical light lines and the horizontal linearity is messed up where the lines are. What tube might be bad even though good on the tube tester?
:::::::::::: This doesn't make any sense. It looks like the problem is in the horizontal section, however I've seen funny problems like this when the rectifier is bad. But then again it could be the damper tube. The picture is clear other than that.
::::::::::::
::::::::::::Thanks,
::::::::::::
::::::::::::Dave

6/7/2007 11:03:58 PMEdd

Whenever you are ready Chip and I are still waiting for the Photo from the Photofact so we can see where R87 actually is.
R87 is from the plate of the second 6SN7 to the reduced B+ thru R88.

No photo... I just had / have the schematic thumbnail, and the plate resistor of the driver is a 220 K unit and the only closely associated capacitors in the driver output stage would be the C65 270 pf coupling capacitor and a resistive isolated one in the form of C64 330 pf in its filter network. M10 mica compression capacitor just bypasses excess hoz drive level to ground.
C63 at 100 pf and C62 at 330 pf are also due some consideration, with being in the osc loop and having some B+ potential across them.

Repeat schema reference:
http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/1709/hozswpcktsaa9.jpg

73's de Edd
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------B/T-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

:Edd,
:Whenever you are ready Chip and I are still waiting for the Photo from the Photofact so we can see where R87 actually is.
: There is also a very tiny mica capacitor that could also cause the problem. This is spoken about in volume 2 of the RCA Pict-O-Guide.
:
:Thanks,
:
:Dave
::You are correct with that terminology, the triode section to the left is associated with the AFC aspect of the oscillator, while the tubes triode section to the right is the discharge...aka...driver section.
::That 220 K plate resistor, with its higher resistive value, along with the hammering that it receives from its waveform created, tends to walk in its resistive value with time.
::
::73's de Edd
::
::---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------B/T----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
::
::
:::Edd,
::: I think that the RCA Pict-O-Guide is talking about the 220K ohm resistor, which would be the same as R87 in the Admiral. I think that pin 5 is on the horizontal discharge section of the 6SN7. Am I correct? I'm trying to find the equivalent resistor in both schematics.
:::
:::Thanks,
:::
:::Dave
::::Herewith.... the schema of your units vert and hoz circuits, the questoned plate resistor being of a 5.6K value.
::::Schema ref:
::::http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/1709/hozswpcktsaa9.jpg
::::
::::Also, confirm that there are no high ESR caps that have developed at the green marked up areas.
::::
::::If you want to PRECISELY "zero-beat" the hoz sync circuit frequency, unplug the 6AL5 and adjust the hoz frequency control while watching the incoming picure for minumal lateral drift of the black hoz sync bar that will be present on the screen.
::::
::::73's de Edd
::::
::::-----------------------------------------------------------------BT----------------------------------------------------------------
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
:::::Edd,
::::: This is the Admiral 26X55A. Next week is fine for the SAMs.
:::::
:::::Thanks very much,
:::::
:::::Dave
::::::Also known as AFC control ..where the sync-to-osc circuit comparison is matched and
::::::fed back back at the discriminator output and the detected DC voltage difference is
::::::used to continually "tweak" the hoz osc circuit into syncronization . can't scan till next week BUT the plate resistor of the
::::::6SN7 mentioned is 5600 ohms, and i would suggest a metal film 1 watt unbit to replace it with.
::::::It usually runs WARM.
::::::
::::::73's de Edd
::::::::Norm,
:::::::: Edd probably has a copy of it. What the pict-o-guide refers to is the plate resistor of the horizontal discharge tube. This is the tube that drives the horizontal out put tube. Does this tube have another name? I assume that it's one of the 6SN7s. The Symptom is called HD-2 and it's on page 13. I would assume that the Admiral has a similar horizontal deflection circuit.
::::::::
::::::::Thanks,
::::::::
::::::::Dave.
:::::::::Dave
:::::::::
:::::::::Admiral 26X55 is in Sam's Photofact 103-2. If you have 26X55A it's in 118-2.
:::::::::
::::::::: I couldn't find Sam's site either.
:::::::::
:::::::::Norm
:::::::::
:::::::::
::::::::::Norm, Edd,
:::::::::: I cannot find www.samswebsite.com online anymore. I can't find my printed index. Do you know what folder this set's in? I think it needs a resistor replaced, which has drifted down in value. This symptom is shown in one of the small red rca troubleshooting books (Pict-O-Guide). If I knew where this resistor was in the Admiral, that might solve the problem.
::::::::::
::::::::::Thanks,
::::::::::
::::::::::Dave
:::::::::::Norm,
::::::::::: The owner of that tv just picked it up from me a while ago. I have relayed your answer to him. I can also tell him where this forum is, so he can tell us what's going on with his set.
:::::::::::
:::::::::::Thanks,
:::::::::::
::::::::::::Dave
::::::::::::
:::::::::::: May be Horizontal Output tube? Testing on a tube tester doesn't mean much with this one.
::::::::::::
:::::::::::: Does the TV have a horizontal drive control? If so try this adjustment.
::::::::::::
:::::::::::: You mentioned damper. Another tube that's not tested right on a tube tester. Damper tubes are rated for high voltage & current. Try another one if you have it. Not sure what's used in your TV but most dampers are somewhat interchangeable. A 6W4 can be replaced with 6AX4, 6AU4 or others with the same basing. Some draw more filament current.
::::::::::::
::::::::::::Norm
::::::::::::
:::::::::::::Hello All,
::::::::::::: At one time, recently, this set worked fine. Then I borrowed some tubes from it. Now when I put replacement tubes where I borrowed them I get vertical light lines and the horizontal linearity is messed up where the lines are. What tube might be bad even though good on the tube tester?
::::::::::::: This doesn't make any sense. It looks like the problem is in the horizontal section, however I've seen funny problems like this when the rectifier is bad. But then again it could be the damper tube. The picture is clear other than that.
:::::::::::::
:::::::::::::Thanks,
:::::::::::::
:::::::::::::Dave

6/8/2007 8:57:00 PMDave Froehlich

Edd,
No problem.

Thanks for the schematic.

Dave
:Whenever you are ready Chip and I are still waiting for the Photo from the Photofact so we can see where R87 actually is.
:R87 is from the plate of the second 6SN7 to the reduced B+ thru R88.
:
:
:No photo... I just had / have the schematic thumbnail, and the plate resistor of the driver is a 220 K unit and the only closely associated capacitors in the driver output stage would be the C65 270 pf coupling capacitor and a resistive isolated one in the form of C64 330 pf in its filter network. M10 mica compression capacitor just bypasses excess hoz drive level to ground.
:C63 at 100 pf and C62 at 330 pf are also due some consideration, with being in the osc loop and having some B+ potential across them.
:
:Repeat schema reference:
:http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/1709/hozswpcktsaa9.jpg
:
:73's de Edd
:-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------B/T-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
:
::Edd,
::Whenever you are ready Chip and I are still waiting for the Photo from the Photofact so we can see where R87 actually is.
:: There is also a very tiny mica capacitor that could also cause the problem. This is spoken about in volume 2 of the RCA Pict-O-Guide.
::
::Thanks,
::
::Dave
:::You are correct with that terminology, the triode section to the left is associated with the AFC aspect of the oscillator, while the tubes triode section to the right is the discharge...aka...driver section.
:::That 220 K plate resistor, with its higher resistive value, along with the hammering that it receives from its waveform created, tends to walk in its resistive value with time.
:::
:::73's de Edd
:::
:::---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------B/T----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
:::
:::
::::Edd,
:::: I think that the RCA Pict-O-Guide is talking about the 220K ohm resistor, which would be the same as R87 in the Admiral. I think that pin 5 is on the horizontal discharge section of the 6SN7. Am I correct? I'm trying to find the equivalent resistor in both schematics.
::::
::::Thanks,
::::
::::Dave
:::::Herewith.... the schema of your units vert and hoz circuits, the questoned plate resistor being of a 5.6K value.
:::::Schema ref:
:::::http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/1709/hozswpcktsaa9.jpg
:::::
:::::Also, confirm that there are no high ESR caps that have developed at the green marked up areas.
:::::
:::::If you want to PRECISELY "zero-beat" the hoz sync circuit frequency, unplug the 6AL5 and adjust the hoz frequency control while watching the incoming picure for minumal lateral drift of the black hoz sync bar that will be present on the screen.
:::::
:::::73's de Edd
:::::
:::::-----------------------------------------------------------------BT----------------------------------------------------------------
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::
::::::Edd,
:::::: This is the Admiral 26X55A. Next week is fine for the SAMs.
::::::
::::::Thanks very much,
::::::
::::::Dave
:::::::Also known as AFC control ..where the sync-to-osc circuit comparison is matched and
:::::::fed back back at the discriminator output and the detected DC voltage difference is
:::::::used to continually "tweak" the hoz osc circuit into syncronization . can't scan till next week BUT the plate resistor of the
:::::::6SN7 mentioned is 5600 ohms, and i would suggest a metal film 1 watt unbit to replace it with.
:::::::It usually runs WARM.
:::::::
:::::::73's de Edd
:::::::::Norm,
::::::::: Edd probably has a copy of it. What the pict-o-guide refers to is the plate resistor of the horizontal discharge tube. This is the tube that drives the horizontal out put tube. Does this tube have another name? I assume that it's one of the 6SN7s. The Symptom is called HD-2 and it's on page 13. I would assume that the Admiral has a similar horizontal deflection circuit.
:::::::::
:::::::::Thanks,
:::::::::
:::::::::Dave.
::::::::::Dave
::::::::::
::::::::::Admiral 26X55 is in Sam's Photofact 103-2. If you have 26X55A it's in 118-2.
::::::::::
:::::::::: I couldn't find Sam's site either.
::::::::::
::::::::::Norm
::::::::::
::::::::::
:::::::::::Norm, Edd,
::::::::::: I cannot find www.samswebsite.com online anymore. I can't find my printed index. Do you know what folder this set's in? I think it needs a resistor replaced, which has drifted down in value. This symptom is shown in one of the small red rca troubleshooting books (Pict-O-Guide). If I knew where this resistor was in the Admiral, that might solve the problem.
:::::::::::
:::::::::::Thanks,
:::::::::::
:::::::::::Dave
::::::::::::Norm,
:::::::::::: The owner of that tv just picked it up from me a while ago. I have relayed your answer to him. I can also tell him where this forum is, so he can tell us what's going on with his set.
::::::::::::
::::::::::::Thanks,
::::::::::::
:::::::::::::Dave
:::::::::::::
::::::::::::: May be Horizontal Output tube? Testing on a tube tester doesn't mean much with this one.
:::::::::::::
::::::::::::: Does the TV have a horizontal drive control? If so try this adjustment.
:::::::::::::
::::::::::::: You mentioned damper. Another tube that's not tested right on a tube tester. Damper tubes are rated for high voltage & current. Try another one if you have it. Not sure what's used in your TV but most dampers are somewhat interchangeable. A 6W4 can be replaced with 6AX4, 6AU4 or others with the same basing. Some draw more filament current.
:::::::::::::
:::::::::::::Norm
:::::::::::::
::::::::::::::Hello All,
:::::::::::::: At one time, recently, this set worked fine. Then I borrowed some tubes from it. Now when I put replacement tubes where I borrowed them I get vertical light lines and the horizontal linearity is messed up where the lines are. What tube might be bad even though good on the tube tester?
:::::::::::::: This doesn't make any sense. It looks like the problem is in the horizontal section, however I've seen funny problems like this when the rectifier is bad. But then again it could be the damper tube. The picture is clear other than that.
::::::::::::::
::::::::::::::Thanks,
::::::::::::::
::::::::::::::Dave

6/11/2007 5:52:16 PMDave Froehlich

Edd,
Chip said that he replaced the damper tube (6W4) and it solved the problem.
Now he doesn't have enough width. So I suggested adjusting the width control. I'll let everyone know what happens next. Probably all problems are solved.

Thanks,

Dave
:Edd,
: No problem.
:
:Thanks for the schematic.
:
:Dave
::Whenever you are ready Chip and I are still waiting for the Photo from the Photofact so we can see where R87 actually is.
::R87 is from the plate of the second 6SN7 to the reduced B+ thru R88.
::
::
::No photo... I just had / have the schematic thumbnail, and the plate resistor of the driver is a 220 K unit and the only closely associated capacitors in the driver output stage would be the C65 270 pf coupling capacitor and a resistive isolated one in the form of C64 330 pf in its filter network. M10 mica compression capacitor just bypasses excess hoz drive level to ground.
::C63 at 100 pf and C62 at 330 pf are also due some consideration, with being in the osc loop and having some B+ potential across them.
::
::Repeat schema reference:
::http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/1709/hozswpcktsaa9.jpg
::
::73's de Edd
::-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------B/T-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
::
:::Edd,
:::Whenever you are ready Chip and I are still waiting for the Photo from the Photofact so we can see where R87 actually is.
::: There is also a very tiny mica capacitor that could also cause the problem. This is spoken about in volume 2 of the RCA Pict-O-Guide.
:::
:::Thanks,
:::
:::Dave
::::You are correct with that terminology, the triode section to the left is associated with the AFC aspect of the oscillator, while the tubes triode section to the right is the discharge...aka...driver section.
::::That 220 K plate resistor, with its higher resistive value, along with the hammering that it receives from its waveform created, tends to walk in its resistive value with time.
::::
::::73's de Edd
::::
::::---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------B/T----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
::::
::::
:::::Edd,
::::: I think that the RCA Pict-O-Guide is talking about the 220K ohm resistor, which would be the same as R87 in the Admiral. I think that pin 5 is on the horizontal discharge section of the 6SN7. Am I correct? I'm trying to find the equivalent resistor in both schematics.
:::::
:::::Thanks,
:::::
:::::Dave
::::::Herewith.... the schema of your units vert and hoz circuits, the questoned plate resistor being of a 5.6K value.
::::::Schema ref:
::::::http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/1709/hozswpcktsaa9.jpg
::::::
::::::Also, confirm that there are no high ESR caps that have developed at the green marked up areas.
::::::
::::::If you want to PRECISELY "zero-beat" the hoz sync circuit frequency, unplug the 6AL5 and adjust the hoz frequency control while watching the incoming picure for minumal lateral drift of the black hoz sync bar that will be present on the screen.
::::::
::::::73's de Edd
::::::
::::::-----------------------------------------------------------------BT----------------------------------------------------------------
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::
:::::::Edd,
::::::: This is the Admiral 26X55A. Next week is fine for the SAMs.
:::::::
:::::::Thanks very much,
:::::::
:::::::Dave
::::::::Also known as AFC control ..where the sync-to-osc circuit comparison is matched and
::::::::fed back back at the discriminator output and the detected DC voltage difference is
::::::::used to continually "tweak" the hoz osc circuit into syncronization . can't scan till next week BUT the plate resistor of the
::::::::6SN7 mentioned is 5600 ohms, and i would suggest a metal film 1 watt unbit to replace it with.
::::::::It usually runs WARM.
::::::::
::::::::73's de Edd
::::::::::Norm,
:::::::::: Edd probably has a copy of it. What the pict-o-guide refers to is the plate resistor of the horizontal discharge tube. This is the tube that drives the horizontal out put tube. Does this tube have another name? I assume that it's one of the 6SN7s. The Symptom is called HD-2 and it's on page 13. I would assume that the Admiral has a similar horizontal deflection circuit.
::::::::::
::::::::::Thanks,
::::::::::
::::::::::Dave.
:::::::::::Dave
:::::::::::
:::::::::::Admiral 26X55 is in Sam's Photofact 103-2. If you have 26X55A it's in 118-2.
:::::::::::
::::::::::: I couldn't find Sam's site either.
:::::::::::
:::::::::::Norm
:::::::::::
:::::::::::
::::::::::::Norm, Edd,
:::::::::::: I cannot find www.samswebsite.com online anymore. I can't find my printed index. Do you know what folder this set's in? I think it needs a resistor replaced, which has drifted down in value. This symptom is shown in one of the small red rca troubleshooting books (Pict-O-Guide). If I knew where this resistor was in the Admiral, that might solve the problem.
::::::::::::
::::::::::::Thanks,
::::::::::::
::::::::::::Dave
:::::::::::::Norm,
::::::::::::: The owner of that tv just picked it up from me a while ago. I have relayed your answer to him. I can also tell him where this forum is, so he can tell us what's going on with his set.
:::::::::::::
:::::::::::::Thanks,
:::::::::::::
::::::::::::::Dave
::::::::::::::
:::::::::::::: May be Horizontal Output tube? Testing on a tube tester doesn't mean much with this one.
::::::::::::::
:::::::::::::: Does the TV have a horizontal drive control? If so try this adjustment.
::::::::::::::
:::::::::::::: You mentioned damper. Another tube that's not tested right on a tube tester. Damper tubes are rated for high voltage & current. Try another one if you have it. Not sure what's used in your TV but most dampers are somewhat interchangeable. A 6W4 can be replaced with 6AX4, 6AU4 or others with the same basing. Some draw more filament current.
::::::::::::::
::::::::::::::Norm
::::::::::::::
:::::::::::::::Hello All,
::::::::::::::: At one time, recently, this set worked fine. Then I borrowed some tubes from it. Now when I put replacement tubes where I borrowed them I get vertical light lines and the horizontal linearity is messed up where the lines are. What tube might be bad even though good on the tube tester?
::::::::::::::: This doesn't make any sense. It looks like the problem is in the horizontal section, however I've seen funny problems like this when the rectifier is bad. But then again it could be the damper tube. The picture is clear other than that.
:::::::::::::::
:::::::::::::::Thanks,
:::::::::::::::
:::::::::::::::Dave

6/11/2007 5:54:33 PMDave Froehlich

Norm,
You were correct. The damper was the problem. I didn't have anoither one to try and my tube tester had said that the one in there was good. But Chip tried it and the problem went away.

Thanks,

Dave
:Dave
:
: May be Horizontal Output tube? Testing on a tube tester doesn't mean much with this one.
:
: Does the TV have a horizontal drive control? If so try this adjustment.
:
: You mentioned damper. Another tube that's not tested right on a tube tester. Damper tubes are rated for high voltage & current. Try another one if you have it. Not sure what's used in your TV but most dampers are somewhat interchangeable. A 6W4 can be replaced with 6AX4, 6AU4 or others with the same basing. Some draw more filament current.
:
:Norm
:
::Hello All,
:: At one time, recently, this set worked fine. Then I borrowed some tubes from it. Now when I put replacement tubes where I borrowed them I get vertical light lines and the horizontal linearity is messed up where the lines are. What tube might be bad even though good on the tube tester?
:: This doesn't make any sense. It looks like the problem is in the horizontal section, however I've seen funny problems like this when the rectifier is bad. But then again it could be the damper tube. The picture is clear other than that.
::
::Thanks,
::
::Dave

6/12/2007 1:32:03 AMDave Froehlich

Norm,
In Chips first e-mail to me he said that he replaced the 6W4 and that it solved the problem. Now he said that he didn't replace the 6W4, he replaced the 6W6 vertical output tube, which solved the problem. So to solve the insufficient width problem that he has now, I suggested replacing the 6W4. I think I'm correct.
I think it would be better if Chip would join us here at the forum. This was a vertical problem. It fooled me. It looked very much like a horizontal problem.

Thanks,

Dave
:Norm,
: You were correct. The damper was the problem. I didn't have anoither one to try and my tube tester had said that the one in there was good. But Chip tried it and the problem went away.
:
:Thanks,
:
:Dave
::Dave
::
:: May be Horizontal Output tube? Testing on a tube tester doesn't mean much with this one.
::
:: Does the TV have a horizontal drive control? If so try this adjustment.
::
:: You mentioned damper. Another tube that's not tested right on a tube tester. Damper tubes are rated for high voltage & current. Try another one if you have it. Not sure what's used in your TV but most dampers are somewhat interchangeable. A 6W4 can be replaced with 6AX4, 6AU4 or others with the same basing. Some draw more filament current.
::
::Norm
::
:::Hello All,
::: At one time, recently, this set worked fine. Then I borrowed some tubes from it. Now when I put replacement tubes where I borrowed them I get vertical light lines and the horizontal linearity is messed up where the lines are. What tube might be bad even though good on the tube tester?
::: This doesn't make any sense. It looks like the problem is in the horizontal section, however I've seen funny problems like this when the rectifier is bad. But then again it could be the damper tube. The picture is clear other than that.
:::
:::Thanks,
:::
:::Dave

6/16/2007 1:04:31 PMCHIP

:Norm,
: In Chips first e-mail to me he said that he replaced the 6W4 and that it solved the problem. Now he said that he didn't replace the 6W4, he replaced the 6W6 vertical output tube, which solved the problem. So to solve the insufficient width problem that he has now, I suggested replacing the 6W4. I think I'm correct.
: I think it would be better if Chip would join us here at the forum. This was a vertical problem. It fooled me. It looked very much like a horizontal problem.
:
:Thanks,
:
:Dave
::Norm,
:: You were correct. The damper was the problem. I didn't have anoither one to try and my tube tester had said that the one in there was good. But Chip tried it and the problem went away.
::
::Thanks,
::
::Dave
:::Dave
:::
::: May be Horizontal Output tube? Testing on a tube tester doesn't mean much with this one.
:::
::: Does the TV have a horizontal drive control? If so try this adjustment.
:::
::: You mentioned damper. Another tube that's not tested right on a tube tester. Damper tubes are rated for high voltage & current. Try another one if you have it. Not sure what's used in your TV but most dampers are somewhat interchangeable. A 6W4 can be replaced with 6AX4, 6AU4 or others with the same basing. Some draw more filament current.
:::
:::Norm
:::
::::Hello All,
:::: At one time, recently, this set worked fine. Then I borrowed some tubes from it. Now when I put replacement tubes where I borrowed them I get vertical light lines and the horizontal linearity is messed up where the lines are. What tube might be bad even though good on the tube tester?
:::: This doesn't make any sense. It looks like the problem is in the horizontal section, however I've seen funny problems like this when the rectifier is bad. But then again it could be the damper tube. The picture is clear other than that.
::::
::::Thanks,
::::
::::Dave

6/16/2007 1:10:57 PMCHIP

HI; I did replace the 6w4 and 6w6 tubes, But still having right side vertical problems. I have tried to make mechinical adjustments several times, but about 1" to 1.5" of the picture is missing. thanks chip

6/16/2007 4:13:02 PMDave Froehlich

Chip,
The picture you showed me isn't wide enough. This is a horizontal problem. The vertical deflection looks ok.

Dave
:HI; I did replace the 6w4 and 6w6 tubes, But still having right side vertical problems. I have tried to make mechinical adjustments several times, but about 1" to 1.5" of the picture is missing. thanks chip

6/16/2007 5:13:42 PMEdd

Chip

Going by your statement of ..... "But still having right side vertical problems. "
in reality means that you are having horizontal problems...specifically the hoz sweep width.
In television terms, the HORIZONTAL is making reference to the picture tubes elect beam that
is being propoprtionately deflected side to side by the deflection yokes varying strength magnetic field
that it produces.The electron beam being swept from left to right with a verrrrrrrry zippy return
to the left of the screen to start over again. The VERTICAL circuit is responsible for doing the same technique,
however its action is making the beam move fron the top to the bottom of the screen.
With that minumal explanation......it seems that if the picture has a black unfilled (underswept)border at the
right side of the picture, one might expect the deficiency to be associated with ...the easiest..the need of the
horizontal drive padder capacitor to be adjusted such that less capacitance is present, such that a greater drive
level to the hoz output tubes 1st grid circuit is available...and not being bypassed to ground.
With your mentioning of the problem being on the RIGHT side of the picture that tells us to
zero in on the hoz output tube,driver and power supply rather than the damper circuirty.
The hoz outputs circuitry takescare of the right extreme portion of the pic while the damper circuitry takes care
of the left side of the picture. Lets start with that. Later on, if required, we can also throw in B+ voltage,
screen supply voltage,boost voltage, leaking capacitore on the boost supply, lin control and width adjustments,
bypass condensers, filter caps,or even the adjustment of the centering tabs on the yoke, etc.

That cap should be a mica compression padder capacitor, whereupon tightening its screw CW incereases its capacitance,
while loosening the adj screw lessens the capacitance...thereby permitting greater drive to the Hoz out tube...which
is what is needed.

Schema ref:
http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/1709/hozswpcktsaa9.jpg

Looks like its cap ( M10 ) on the schema and referred to as adjustment item B2 and is schematically located just to the
side of two grid resistors at the left of the HOZ out 6CD6's 1 st grid.

73's de Edd
----------------------BT--------------------------------

:Chip,
: The picture you showed me isn't wide enough. This is a horizontal problem. The vertical deflection looks ok.
:
:Dave
::HI; I did replace the 6w4 and 6w6 tubes, But still having right side vertical problems. I have tried to make mechinical adjustments several times, but about 1" to 1.5" of the picture is missing. thanks chip

6/17/2007 7:27:59 PMCHIP

:Chip
:
:Going by your statement of ..... "But still having right side vertical problems. "
:in reality means that you are having horizontal problems...specifically the hoz sweep width.
:In television terms, the HORIZONTAL is making reference to the picture tubes elect beam that
:is being propoprtionately deflected side to side by the deflection yokes varying strength magnetic field
:that it produces.The electron beam being swept from left to right with a verrrrrrrry zippy return
:to the left of the screen to start over again. The VERTICAL circuit is responsible for doing the same technique,
:however its action is making the beam move fron the top to the bottom of the screen.
:With that minumal explanation......it seems that if the picture has a black unfilled (underswept)border at the
:right side of the picture, one might expect the deficiency to be associated with ...the easiest..the need of the
:horizontal drive padder capacitor to be adjusted such that less capacitance is present, such that a greater drive
:level to the hoz output tubes 1st grid circuit is available...and not being bypassed to ground.
:With your mentioning of the problem being on the RIGHT side of the picture that tells us to
:zero in on the hoz output tube,driver and power supply rather than the damper circuirty.
:The hoz outputs circuitry takescare of the right extreme portion of the pic while the damper circuitry takes care
:of the left side of the picture. Lets start with that. Later on, if required, we can also throw in B+ voltage,
:screen supply voltage,boost voltage, leaking capacitore on the boost supply, lin control and width adjustments,
:bypass condensers, filter caps,or even the adjustment of the centering tabs on the yoke, etc.
:
:That cap should be a mica compression padder capacitor, whereupon tightening its screw CW incereases its capacitance,
:while loosening the adj screw lessens the capacitance...thereby permitting greater drive to the Hoz out tube...which
:is what is needed.
:
:Schema ref:
:http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/1709/hozswpcktsaa9.jpg
:
:Looks like its cap ( M10 ) on the schema and referred to as adjustment item B2 and is schematically located just to the
:side of two grid resistors at the left of the HOZ out 6CD6's 1 st grid.
:
:73's de Edd
:----------------------BT--------------------------------
:
:
::Chip,
:: The picture you showed me isn't wide enough. This is a horizontal problem. The vertical deflection looks ok.
::
::Dave
:::HI; I did replace the 6w4 and 6w6 tubes, But still having right side vertical problems. I have tried to make mechinical adjustments several times, but about 1" to 1.5" of the picture is missing. thanks chip

EDD: I tried all of the adjustments you said to do even the picture tube and still no change I also have a problem with peoples heads at the top with long bodys , if the 6C6G tube is weak could this cause a problem. I am getting a tube tester soon and will ck all of the tubes . chip

6/17/2007 8:29:09 PMNorm Leal

Important to have a known good 6CD6G. A 6DN6 will also work. Even one that tests good may not operate properly in a TV. This is a likly problem when you have lack of width.

Long bodies are a different problem. That problem is in the vertical section. Try Vert Height, Vert Linearity controls.

Norm

::Chip
::
::Going by your statement of ..... "But still having right side vertical problems. "
::in reality means that you are having horizontal problems...specifically the hoz sweep width.
::In television terms, the HORIZONTAL is making reference to the picture tubes elect beam that
::is being propoprtionately deflected side to side by the deflection yokes varying strength magnetic field
::that it produces.The electron beam being swept from left to right with a verrrrrrrry zippy return
::to the left of the screen to start over again. The VERTICAL circuit is responsible for doing the same technique,
::however its action is making the beam move fron the top to the bottom of the screen.
::With that minumal explanation......it seems that if the picture has a black unfilled (underswept)border at the
::right side of the picture, one might expect the deficiency to be associated with ...the easiest..the need of the
::horizontal drive padder capacitor to be adjusted such that less capacitance is present, such that a greater drive
::level to the hoz output tubes 1st grid circuit is available...and not being bypassed to ground.
::With your mentioning of the problem being on the RIGHT side of the picture that tells us to
::zero in on the hoz output tube,driver and power supply rather than the damper circuirty.
::The hoz outputs circuitry takescare of the right extreme portion of the pic while the damper circuitry takes care
::of the left side of the picture. Lets start with that. Later on, if required, we can also throw in B+ voltage,
::screen supply voltage,boost voltage, leaking capacitore on the boost supply, lin control and width adjustments,
::bypass condensers, filter caps,or even the adjustment of the centering tabs on the yoke, etc.
::
::That cap should be a mica compression padder capacitor, whereupon tightening its screw CW incereases its capacitance,
::while loosening the adj screw lessens the capacitance...thereby permitting greater drive to the Hoz out tube...which
::is what is needed.
::
::Schema ref:
::http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/1709/hozswpcktsaa9.jpg
::
::Looks like its cap ( M10 ) on the schema and referred to as adjustment item B2 and is schematically located just to the
::side of two grid resistors at the left of the HOZ out 6CD6's 1 st grid.
::
::73's de Edd
::----------------------BT--------------------------------
::
::
:::Chip,
::: The picture you showed me isn't wide enough. This is a horizontal problem. The vertical deflection looks ok.
:::
:::Dave
::::HI; I did replace the 6w4 and 6w6 tubes, But still having right side vertical problems. I have tried to make mechinical adjustments several times, but about 1" to 1.5" of the picture is missing. thanks chip
:
:
:EDD: I tried all of the adjustments you said to do even the picture tube and still no change I also have a problem with peoples heads at the top with long bodys , if the 6C6G tube is weak could this cause a problem. I am getting a tube tester soon and will ck all of the tubes . chip

6/18/2007 6:03:03 PMchip

:Hi
:
: Important to have a known good 6CD6G. A 6DN6 will also work. Even one that tests good may not operate properly in a TV. This is a likly problem when you have lack of width.
:
: Long bodies are a different problem. That problem is in the vertical section. Try Vert Height, Vert Linearity controls.
:
:Norm
:
:
:
:
:::Chip
:::
:::Going by your statement of ..... "But still having right side vertical problems. "
:::in reality means that you are having horizontal problems...specifically the hoz sweep width.
:::In television terms, the HORIZONTAL is making reference to the picture tubes elect beam that
:::is being propoprtionately deflected side to side by the deflection yokes varying strength magnetic field
:::that it produces.The electron beam being swept from left to right with a verrrrrrrry zippy return
:::to the left of the screen to start over again. The VERTICAL circuit is responsible for doing the same technique,
:::however its action is making the beam move fron the top to the bottom of the screen.
:::With that minumal explanation......it seems that if the picture has a black unfilled (underswept)border at the
:::right side of the picture, one might expect the deficiency to be associated with ...the easiest..the need of the
:::horizontal drive padder capacitor to be adjusted such that less capacitance is present, such that a greater drive
:::level to the hoz output tubes 1st grid circuit is available...and not being bypassed to ground.
:::With your mentioning of the problem being on the RIGHT side of the picture that tells us to
:::zero in on the hoz output tube,driver and power supply rather than the damper circuirty.
:::The hoz outputs circuitry takescare of the right extreme portion of the pic while the damper circuitry takes care
:::of the left side of the picture. Lets start with that. Later on, if required, we can also throw in B+ voltage,
:::screen supply voltage,boost voltage, leaking capacitore on the boost supply, lin control and width adjustments,
:::bypass condensers, filter caps,or even the adjustment of the centering tabs on the yoke, etc.
:::
:::That cap should be a mica compression padder capacitor, whereupon tightening its screw CW incereases its capacitance,
:::while loosening the adj screw lessens the capacitance...thereby permitting greater drive to the Hoz out tube...which
:::is what is needed.
:::
:::Schema ref:
:::http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/1709/hozswpcktsaa9.jpg
:::
:::Looks like its cap ( M10 ) on the schema and referred to as adjustment item B2 and is schematically located just to the
:::side of two grid resistors at the left of the HOZ out 6CD6's 1 st grid.
:::
:::73's de Edd
:::----------------------BT--------------------------------
:::
:::
::::Chip,
:::: The picture you showed me isn't wide enough. This is a horizontal problem. The vertical deflection looks ok.
::::
::::Dave
:::::HI; I did replace the 6w4 and 6w6 tubes, But still having right side vertical problems. I have tried to make mechinical adjustments several times, but about 1" to 1.5" of the picture is missing. thanks chip
::
::
::EDD: I tried all of the adjustments you said to do even the picture tube and still no change I also have a problem with peoples heads at the top with long bodys , if the 6C6G tube is weak could this cause a problem. I am getting a tube tester soon and will ck all of the tubes . chip