Interesting radio this is. I picked it up at an estate sale after noone else would buy it. It's a superheterodyne, and amazingly it works (someone else plugged it in....otherwise I wouldn't have). It also mixes 2.5 and 6.3 volt tubes. Look at the filaments. Strange! The 2.5 volt tubes are wired in series, and even have the pilot lamp wired in.

T.

I looked at your schematic....interesting assortment of tubes in there. If figured the x-former would be ginormous, but oddly enough it looks to be typical.
what a find! I want one now since it has some detector tubes I have never seen! lol

:Interesting radio this is. I picked it up at an estate sale after noone else would buy it. It's a superheterodyne, and amazingly it works (someone else plugged it in....otherwise I wouldn't have). It also mixes 2.5 and 6.3 volt tubes. Look at the filaments. Strange! The 2.5 volt tubes are wired in series, and even have the pilot lamp wired in.
:
:T.

Hi

This was a fairly popular Corsley. Schematic is in Most Often Needed 1926-1938 Radio Diagrams. It uses 2 - 58 and a 57 with filaments wired in series across 6.3 volts. Each tube would have 2.1 insteads of 2.5 volts. The pilot lamp makes filament voltage even lower on 1st RF and Detector tubes. Lower voltage may have reduced hum in these stages?

Norm

:I looked at your schematic....interesting assortment of tubes in there. If figured the x-former would be ginormous, but oddly enough it looks to be typical.
:what a find! I want one now since it has some detector tubes I have never seen! lol
:
::Interesting radio this is. I picked it up at an estate sale after noone else would buy it. It's a superheterodyne, and amazingly it works (someone else plugged it in....otherwise I wouldn't have). It also mixes 2.5 and 6.3 volt tubes. Look at the filaments. Strange! The 2.5 volt tubes are wired in series, and even have the pilot lamp wired in.
::
::T.

Actually the transformer puts out 7.0 volts according to the schematic. The 57s and 58s all have 2.5 volts. The pilot lamp is wired after one of the tubes so that it sees 6.3 (approximately), and the 42 gets a full 7.0 volts, which isn't bad, since it would see that in an automotive circuit, which is what 6.3 volt tubes were designed for (charging circuit usually runs at about 7.2 to 7.4 volts optimum).

What is odd, though, is that the rectifier, according to the schematic, runs just below 5.0 volts.

The radio does work ok, but crackles a lot. I assume that it needs new condensers and stuff. I'm not going to play it anymore until then. It's really dirty inside, too.

I'm trying something new for finish stripping. I'm going to use acetone. I've used Zip-Strip in the past, but it requires water for proper removal (or perhaps something else???). Anyway, the finish on this cabinet is really bad, and I found that it comes off nicely with acetone, which, if not over-used, won't damage glue joints.

T.

Be carefull with the acetone as it is very flamable.

MRO

::I'm trying something new for finish stripping. I'm going to use acetone. I've used Zip-Strip in the past, but it requires water for proper removal (or perhaps something else???). Anyway, the finish on this cabinet is really bad, and I found that it comes off nicely with acetone, which, if not over-used, won't damage glue joints.
:
:T.

Yep. I think we've kind of gone over this subject before.

T.

I haven't had personal experience with thisone yet... but I read on ARF Cabinet Restoation hints... that a good finish remover ( esp for an old "aligatored" finish)is 50/50 acetone/lacquer thinner
Scrub it with 00 steel wool.

I'm about to try this myself on my next project. So let me know how it works.

"MEK" Methel Ethel Keyton is also a very good finish remover. I used to use it as a stripper post wash to even out the blotchyness. It is not available in all states.

MRO

:I haven't had personal experience with thisone yet... but I read on ARF Cabinet Restoation hints... that a good finish remover ( esp for an old "aligatored" finish)is 50/50 acetone/lacquer thinner
:Scrub it with 00 steel wool.
:
:I'm about to try this myself on my next project. So let me know how it works.
:

Sorry for kind-of being testy. A long time ago I suggested acetone for something else, though, and a lot of people on the forum gave me hell for it because it's flammable, etc. They seemed to think that it'd be better that I not use it at all, than simply be cautious and plan ahead so that I may use it safely (it is flammable, and can destroy certain plastic parts if accidently spilled on them). I had a hard time convincing people that you actually could use the stuff if you simply thought before you used it.

T.

No offence taken Mr. T

MRO

:Sorry for kind-of being testy. A long time ago I suggested acetone for something else, though, and a lot of people on the forum gave me hell for it because it's flammable, etc. They seemed to think that it'd be better that I not use it at all, than simply be cautious and plan ahead so that I may use it safely (it is flammable, and can destroy certain plastic parts if accidently spilled on them). I had a hard time convincing people that you actually could use the stuff if you simply thought before you used it.
:
:T.

I haven't tried the acetone/lacquer thinner combo, but acetone works wonders on an old T-shirt. Wear gloves so that you don't dry out your fingers. Keep a small bowl of acetone for rinsing build-up from the rag (you could also use steel woold, but a rag holds more liquid).

I love it. It isn't messy like Zip-Strip. I think I'm going to always use this method. It's really quick.

...And if you have a bowl, of course be sure to use it in a flame free area, such as outside or your garage. Don't turn on/off lights, etc.

T.