Hello Again All,
The seeker only works if the radio is tuned manually after pressing the seek button. I press the button, the sound mutes, I tune and it unmutes on the next strong station. The "Treadle" solenoid doesn't seem to allow the music box spring to unwind. So I will have to check all that stuff. First see if I can release the governor by hand and see if it scans then. Maybe M11 is dirty. But where is M7 is is a good question. M5 may be dirty as well. So I don't know if the "Power" (return) solenoid is working either. Maybe I should check to see if the music box spring is ok first. The solenoid could be energizing, but with no wound up spring, there could be no motion. Whatever. Same old signal seeker, different radio.

Dave

That mechanism needs to be cleeeeeeean, freeeeeeeee running and NO binding. The limit switches take care of the solenoids pulsing at the prescribed ranges. I used to operate the mechanics manually until freed up enough to work flawlessly, then its up to the proper selection of the sensitivity and the proper gain/operation of the trigger amp tube circuitry to stop the escapement vane at AVC signal / station sensing.

You can listen for activation of M10 or M11 by grounding their coils and listening for the thumps *****BUT***** it is also important to be using a ***HIGH*** current power supply OR else powering up with a battery which would provide an instant high power drain capability.
Otherwise, a proper fulfillment of the transient electro-mechanical taxing imposed upon the system will not be attainable with a marginal power sourcing.
Also, in the power supply aspect, a very healthy C1A 750ufd with its capacitive reserve "kick' also figures into the equation.

73's de edd

Edd,
I always use a real car battery to power car radios. I have as much current as I need. I hear nothing engaging except for the mute. The sound mutes, and when it's muted and I tune it manually, when I reach the next strongest station, the mute disengages and I hear that station. I have plenty of current for the return but that doesn't seem to engage either. I think I have dirty switches. Do you have a picture of where the switches are?

Thanks,

Dave
:That mechanism needs to be cleeeeeeean, freeeeeeeee running and NO binding. The limit switches take care of the solenoids pulsing at the prescribed ranges. I used to operate the mechanics manually until freed up enough to work flawlessly, then its up to the proper selection of the sensitivity and the proper gain/operation of the trigger amp tube circuitry to stop the escapement vane at AVC signal / station sensing.
:
:You can listen for activation of M10 or M11 by grounding their coils and listening for the thumps *****BUT***** it is also important to be using a ***HIGH*** current power supply OR else powering up with a battery which would provide an instant high power drain capability.
:Otherwise, a proper fulfillment of the transient electro-mechanical taxing imposed upon the system will not be attainable with a marginal power sourcing.
:Also, in the power supply aspect, a very healthy C1A 750ufd with its capacitive reserve "kick' also figures into the equation.
:
:73's de edd
:
:
:
:
:
:

:Edd,
:" I always use a real car battery to power car radios. " :

RGRGR...had no idea... with certainity..that you might possibly have not been trying to use a supply of the 2A or so category.No problem until the all current consuming activation of a solenoid is required.

Nope..... all of my tech data was only on the schema-alignment-and parts list. Pictorals only of the
PCB's foil paths and none on the tuning electromechanical mechanism.
Been too long for me to remember the precise mechanics
locales and that mechanism is one wee bit on the cramped side in its layout.

::73's de edd

Dave,
As mentioned by Edd, the limit switches control the solenoids, and the contacts of those switches are best cleaned by removing the switches from the radio. The switches are the two rectangular objects directly above the tuning rack shaft on the right side of the radio (Not the manual tuning shaft on the left side!). They are mounted to the face plate with two small bolts with ¼" heads. After removing the bolts, the switches slide up out of their mounting slots to remove. Carefully note how the tuning rack actuating fingers are situated with the switches before removing them.

To see if the tuning mechanism is moving freely, you can re-cock the power spring by carefully moving the geared rack towards the rear of the radio. Do this without power to the radio. It is then held from moving forward (and carrying the tuner towards the high end of the dial) by the relay pawl that extends down into the governor. Carefully lift the relay pawl out of the governor and the rack should move forward, powered by the spring.

When the radio is working under power, one solenoid re-cocks the power spring, and the other one returns the tuner to the low end of the dial. It's normal for the power solenoid to fire several times during a tuner sweep up the dial.

The governor controls the speed of the tuner as it moves up the dial. The governor is a clock-work like mechanism with a one way ratchet and fly-weights in a drum. It's easy to disassemble and put back together--just keep it clean and oil the shaft bearings with a very light oil, keeping the fly-weight drum area clean and dry. The hard part is getting it out of the radio! You may have to remove the relay first. Clean the relay contacts while you have it out. The governor and relay (pawl position) both have to be adjusted after re-installing for proper operation.

This radio uses Wonder Bar tuner series F2. Service and adjustment instructions for tuner F2 are contained in Delco bulletin 6D-623, and two supplements for that bulletin. There are a total of 30 pages devoted just to that tuning mechanism. Somewhat complicated, but a marvel of simplicity compared to some of the older European signal-seeking tuners! If I never see another Blaupunkt signal-seeker it will be too soon!

Meade

:Edd,
: I always use a real car battery to power car radios. I have as much current as I need. I hear nothing engaging except for the mute. The sound mutes, and when it's muted and I tune it manually, when I reach the next strongest station, the mute disengages and I hear that station. I have plenty of current for the return but that doesn't seem to engage either. I think I have dirty switches. Do you have a picture of where the switches are?
:
:
:Thanks,
:
:Dave
::That mechanism needs to be cleeeeeeean, freeeeeeeee running and NO binding. The limit switches take care of the solenoids pulsing at the prescribed ranges. I used to operate the mechanics manually until freed up enough to work flawlessly, then its up to the proper selection of the sensitivity and the proper gain/operation of the trigger amp tube circuitry to stop the escapement vane at AVC signal / station sensing.
::
::You can listen for activation of M10 or M11 by grounding their coils and listening for the thumps *****BUT***** it is also important to be using a ***HIGH*** current power supply OR else powering up with a battery which would provide an instant high power drain capability.
::Otherwise, a proper fulfillment of the transient electro-mechanical taxing imposed upon the system will not be attainable with a marginal power sourcing.
::Also, in the power supply aspect, a very healthy C1A 750ufd with its capacitive reserve "kick' also figures into the equation.
::
::73's de edd
::
::
::
::
::
::

Meade,
Thanks very much. I saw these things but I didn't know how to get them out to clean them. I also see a metal belt and two pulleys. So I knew that the automatic tuning is on the other side of the radio. I'll try what you suggest.

Thanks again,

Dave
:
:Dave,
:As mentioned by Edd, the limit switches control the solenoids, and the contacts of those switches are best cleaned by removing the switches from the radio. The switches are the two rectangular objects directly above the tuning rack shaft on the right side of the radio (Not the manual tuning shaft on the left side!). They are mounted to the face plate with two small bolts with ¼" heads. After removing the bolts, the switches slide up out of their mounting slots to remove. Carefully note how the tuning rack actuating fingers are situated with the switches before removing them.
:
:To see if the tuning mechanism is moving freely, you can re-cock the power spring by carefully moving the geared rack towards the rear of the radio. Do this without power to the radio. It is then held from moving forward (and carrying the tuner towards the high end of the dial) by the relay pawl that extends down into the governor. Carefully lift the relay pawl out of the governor and the rack should move forward, powered by the spring.
:
:When the radio is working under power, one solenoid re-cocks the power spring, and the other one returns the tuner to the low end of the dial. It's normal for the power solenoid to fire several times during a tuner sweep up the dial.
:
:The governor controls the speed of the tuner as it moves up the dial. The governor is a clock-work like mechanism with a one way ratchet and fly-weights in a drum. It's easy to disassemble and put back together--just keep it clean and oil the shaft bearings with a very light oil, keeping the fly-weight drum area clean and dry. The hard part is getting it out of the radio! You may have to remove the relay first. Clean the relay contacts while you have it out. The governor and relay (pawl position) both have to be adjusted after re-installing for proper operation.
:
:This radio uses Wonder Bar tuner series F2. Service and adjustment instructions for tuner F2 are contained in Delco bulletin 6D-623, and two supplements for that bulletin. There are a total of 30 pages devoted just to that tuning mechanism. Somewhat complicated, but a marvel of simplicity compared to some of the older European signal-seeking tuners! If I never see another Blaupunkt signal-seeker it will be too soon!
:
:Meade
:
:
:
:
::Edd,
:: I always use a real car battery to power car radios. I have as much current as I need. I hear nothing engaging except for the mute. The sound mutes, and when it's muted and I tune it manually, when I reach the next strongest station, the mute disengages and I hear that station. I have plenty of current for the return but that doesn't seem to engage either. I think I have dirty switches. Do you have a picture of where the switches are?
::
::
::Thanks,
::
::Dave
:::That mechanism needs to be cleeeeeeean, freeeeeeeee running and NO binding. The limit switches take care of the solenoids pulsing at the prescribed ranges. I used to operate the mechanics manually until freed up enough to work flawlessly, then its up to the proper selection of the sensitivity and the proper gain/operation of the trigger amp tube circuitry to stop the escapement vane at AVC signal / station sensing.
:::
:::You can listen for activation of M10 or M11 by grounding their coils and listening for the thumps *****BUT***** it is also important to be using a ***HIGH*** current power supply OR else powering up with a battery which would provide an instant high power drain capability.
:::Otherwise, a proper fulfillment of the transient electro-mechanical taxing imposed upon the system will not be attainable with a marginal power sourcing.
:::Also, in the power supply aspect, a very healthy C1A 750ufd with its capacitive reserve "kick' also figures into the equation.
:::
:::73's de edd
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::

Hello Mag, Edd,
I finally had a chance to get back to this radio. When I press the scan button, the solenoid does pull on the "music box" spring but it doesn't propell the tuning. Also if I tune to the end of the band, press the scan button, and tune a little higher, like a flash, the return solenoid works great too. The mute comes off when I manually tune to the next strong station. Electronically, all is well. This is a mechanical problem with the spring. Maybe the spring is jammed? Maybe it's snapped or "sprung"? How can I tell? If this is a major problem, I'll leave well enough alone.

Thanks,
:
:Dave,
:As mentioned by Edd, the limit switches control the solenoids, and the contacts of those switches are best cleaned by removing the switches from the radio. The switches are the two rectangular objects directly above the tuning rack shaft on the right side of the radio (Not the manual tuning shaft on the left side!). They are mounted to the face plate with two small bolts with ¼" heads. After removing the bolts, the switches slide up out of their mounting slots to remove. Carefully note how the tuning rack actuating fingers are situated with the switches before removing them.
:
:To see if the tuning mechanism is moving freely, you can re-cock the power spring by carefully moving the geared rack towards the rear of the radio. Do this without power to the radio. It is then held from moving forward (and carrying the tuner towards the high end of the dial) by the relay pawl that extends down into the governor. Carefully lift the relay pawl out of the governor and the rack should move forward, powered by the spring.
:
:When the radio is working under power, one solenoid re-cocks the power spring, and the other one returns the tuner to the low end of the dial. It's normal for the power solenoid to fire several times during a tuner sweep up the dial.
:
:The governor controls the speed of the tuner as it moves up the dial. The governor is a clock-work like mechanism with a one way ratchet and fly-weights in a drum. It's easy to disassemble and put back together--just keep it clean and oil the shaft bearings with a very light oil, keeping the fly-weight drum area clean and dry. The hard part is getting it out of the radio! You may have to remove the relay first. Clean the relay contacts while you have it out. The governor and relay (pawl position) both have to be adjusted after re-installing for proper operation.
:
:This radio uses Wonder Bar tuner series F2. Service and adjustment instructions for tuner F2 are contained in Delco bulletin 6D-623, and two supplements for that bulletin. There are a total of 30 pages devoted just to that tuning mechanism. Somewhat complicated, but a marvel of simplicity compared to some of the older European signal-seeking tuners! If I never see another Blaupunkt signal-seeker it will be too soon!
:
:Meade
:
:
:
:
::Edd,
:: I always use a real car battery to power car radios. I have as much current as I need. I hear nothing engaging except for the mute. The sound mutes, and when it's muted and I tune it manually, when I reach the next strongest station, the mute disengages and I hear that station. I have plenty of current for the return but that doesn't seem to engage either. I think I have dirty switches. Do you have a picture of where the switches are?
::
::
::Thanks,
::
::Dave
:::That mechanism needs to be cleeeeeeean, freeeeeeeee running and NO binding. The limit switches take care of the solenoids pulsing at the prescribed ranges. I used to operate the mechanics manually until freed up enough to work flawlessly, then its up to the proper selection of the sensitivity and the proper gain/operation of the trigger amp tube circuitry to stop the escapement vane at AVC signal / station sensing.
:::
:::You can listen for activation of M10 or M11 by grounding their coils and listening for the thumps *****BUT***** it is also important to be using a ***HIGH*** current power supply OR else powering up with a battery which would provide an instant high power drain capability.
:::Otherwise, a proper fulfillment of the transient electro-mechanical taxing imposed upon the system will not be attainable with a marginal power sourcing.
:::Also, in the power supply aspect, a very healthy C1A 750ufd with its capacitive reserve "kick' also figures into the equation.
:::
:::73's de edd
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::

Dave,

I've never found a weak or bad power spring, although it may be possible. Most likely the governor is gummed up and won't let the rack move forward, and that means the tuner will not move up the dial under spring power although still possible to tune manually. Also, the relay should be lifting the "stop" pawl out of the governor fly-wheel when you push "scan". If you carefully lift the relay arm up clear of the fly-wheel, the tuner should move under spring power. If the fly-wheel doesn't rotate, the governor will not let the rack move. If this is the problem, see my comments about cleaning the governor.

Meade

:Hello Mag, Edd,
: I finally had a chance to get back to this radio. When I press the scan button, the solenoid does pull on the "music box" spring but it doesn't propell the tuning. Also if I tune to the end of the band, press the scan button, and tune a little higher, like a flash, the return solenoid works great too. The mute comes off when I manually tune to the next strong station. Electronically, all is well. This is a mechanical problem with the spring. Maybe the spring is jammed? Maybe it's snapped or "sprung"? How can I tell? If this is a major problem, I'll leave well enough alone.
:
:Thanks,
::
::Dave,
::As mentioned by Edd, the limit switches control the solenoids, and the contacts of those switches are best cleaned by removing the switches from the radio. The switches are the two rectangular objects directly above the tuning rack shaft on the right side of the radio (Not the manual tuning shaft on the left side!). They are mounted to the face plate with two small bolts with ¼" heads. After removing the bolts, the switches slide up out of their mounting slots to remove. Carefully note how the tuning rack actuating fingers are situated with the switches before removing them.
::
::To see if the tuning mechanism is moving freely, you can re-cock the power spring by carefully moving the geared rack towards the rear of the radio. Do this without power to the radio. It is then held from moving forward (and carrying the tuner towards the high end of the dial) by the relay pawl that extends down into the governor. Carefully lift the relay pawl out of the governor and the rack should move forward, powered by the spring.
::
::When the radio is working under power, one solenoid re-cocks the power spring, and the other one returns the tuner to the low end of the dial. It's normal for the power solenoid to fire several times during a tuner sweep up the dial.
::
::The governor controls the speed of the tuner as it moves up the dial. The governor is a clock-work like mechanism with a one way ratchet and fly-weights in a drum. It's easy to disassemble and put back together--just keep it clean and oil the shaft bearings with a very light oil, keeping the fly-weight drum area clean and dry. The hard part is getting it out of the radio! You may have to remove the relay first. Clean the relay contacts while you have it out. The governor and relay (pawl position) both have to be adjusted after re-installing for proper operation.
::
::This radio uses Wonder Bar tuner series F2. Service and adjustment instructions for tuner F2 are contained in Delco bulletin 6D-623, and two supplements for that bulletin. There are a total of 30 pages devoted just to that tuning mechanism. Somewhat complicated, but a marvel of simplicity compared to some of the older European signal-seeking tuners! If I never see another Blaupunkt signal-seeker it will be too soon!
::
::Meade
::
::
::
::
:::Edd,
::: I always use a real car battery to power car radios. I have as much current as I need. I hear nothing engaging except for the mute. The sound mutes, and when it's muted and I tune it manually, when I reach the next strongest station, the mute disengages and I hear that station. I have plenty of current for the return but that doesn't seem to engage either. I think I have dirty switches. Do you have a picture of where the switches are?
:::
:::
:::Thanks,
:::
:::Dave
::::That mechanism needs to be cleeeeeeean, freeeeeeeee running and NO binding. The limit switches take care of the solenoids pulsing at the prescribed ranges. I used to operate the mechanics manually until freed up enough to work flawlessly, then its up to the proper selection of the sensitivity and the proper gain/operation of the trigger amp tube circuitry to stop the escapement vane at AVC signal / station sensing.
::::
::::You can listen for activation of M10 or M11 by grounding their coils and listening for the thumps *****BUT***** it is also important to be using a ***HIGH*** current power supply OR else powering up with a battery which would provide an instant high power drain capability.
::::Otherwise, a proper fulfillment of the transient electro-mechanical taxing imposed upon the system will not be attainable with a marginal power sourcing.
::::Also, in the power supply aspect, a very healthy C1A 750ufd with its capacitive reserve "kick' also figures into the equation.
::::
::::73's de edd
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::
::::

I heartily co-concur on the transverse mechanism probably being gunked up with a sluggish or non responding action by virtue of dried out / sticky lube / gum residue , no lube, dirt/sand granules or mechanical deformation / binding. OR the separate, basic whole variable inductive tuning mechanism itself being balky.

With no signal input into the set and the mechanism initially activated , it should start its scan and transverse continually with possibly only some supplemental intermediate supplemantal "recocking" of the mechanism with an auto enacted solenoid pulsing.

Asking for more relevant info now, are the pushbutton mechanics, and its associated clutch mechanism releasings working OK. With a free action, if you were to set the far left pushbutton to an ~600 KC sta and the far right one to an ~ 1500 KC station. At least, with that setting, if you need to get that action smooth and easy in the process of cleaning and a light lube...that is an easy manner to loosen up the mechanism...by alternating between those pushbutton extremes limits.
As far as the spring action you might try mechanically assisting the system by applied finger pressure to negate the systems required mechanical effort ...to see if the mechanism might free up a bit after multiple cyclings.

As a concurrent mechanical analogy, should you ever have seen such, I compare the electro/mechanical operation to that of the first generation of auto clocks. In which situation there is the typical clockmakers utilization of the use of a power wound main spring to feed the sequentially geared mechanism with its down gearing coupled into a sequential activated and stepped escapment. With excursions of a sequentally pulsed fly wheel working against a counter tensioned hair spring to acquire the units timing accuracy.
However, in the case of the main spring of the auto clock.....the unit is scaled down as to have a minutely less degree of main spring tensioning.
That weaker spring will have a tapering down of strength into the minutes of time passage category, but the main spring mehanism is tied into a momentary contact switch action such that a ratchet and pawl mechanism can take the movement from a pulsed power solenoid. That "rewind" action re-tensions the main coil spring and the cycle restarts. The clocks timing action merrily running away all the while, with the hands keeping time accordingly.

73's de Edd