The technique that I have been using is selecting the very two smallest sizes of brass or copper tubing that K&S (?) Metals offer in their small hobby oriented metals assortment and is to be found in FULL service hardware or hobby shops.Those sizes will accomodate from ~18ga ----> (whatever smaller size of wire required) internally.
Then I just dip a tip of it down into a wet flux and then over into a pool of molten solder such that it gets fully tinned externally and internally.
Then you either use a Zona/Exacto micro saw or a cutoff wheel mounted in a Dremel tool, to cut off as much as needed...typically a min of 3/16---3/8 in
being max. That cutoff manner preserves the cut end such that you don't have to re-ream out the center hole of a damaged/squashed end with a scribe.
Then I just flux up and tin the ends of the to be co-joined wire leads and then heat up one lead while you work on the "splicelet" half way and then place
in the other lead and do a final reflow so that it takes on a nice well dressed conformal solder coating.....a liberal fluxxxxxxing facilitates that !
(or would that be pfluxing?...with pflash!)
That is my favorite technique for the re using of a still good old vintage clipped lead capacitor on which I might need a full 1 1/2 full lead wire..or even a bit
more ..on a longer wiring terminating run. First, two solid copper 20-22 ga copper wires are tinned and only about ~ 1/16 of original retinned lead is left on the caps ends. Then about an 1/8 inch of tinned splice tubing is used for the joining. A final rub down / buffing of the joint and tinned new lead wire with
a MEK wetted cotton Q-tip leaves the unit looking as if its tinned wiring was chrome plated. PLUS the new little end caplets resemble the profile that one finds
in the quality mil spec/aerospace types of capacitors with their metal jacket surrounds and with the ends capped off with re-fused glass frit seals.
PLUS.. I was never thrilled with the final appearance of the installed spiral wire constructed Kwikette? /quig? Squig / (s)quiglet? with its minumally fluxed retentive solder,and that probably was using a same type dry flux, such as you now find on solder de-wicking braid. And as you probably have found, that braid only really performs optimally with a liberal supplication of liquid flux.
Plus.... I don't like the hook and loop and cover with a blob of solder on two wires, and even worse, the mere placing two clipped leads of a cap back together and placing a solder blob bridging them.
If I ever have to splice 2 wires I will tin the leads and then initiate a temporary ~1/4 inch overlapped touching tack joint and then use a single copper strand from an AC cords cache of copper wires.It gets tinned and then is tightly wrapped, binding the length of the ovelapping splice and then a liberal fluxing and solder reflowing is done.
Works great, MECHANICALLY and electrically.
73's de Edd
Perhaps it was just so difficult to properly remove the old lead from it's 'old' solderd termination points without re-heating and making a mess of it?
Was this because people didn't have the proper easy-to-use solder sucker? and/or a proper temperature soldering iron? or the patience to properly remove the old part?
I have simply just used my solder sucker to easily clean up and remove the old component lead from the jumbled up junction or termination point.
What's the problem if you use a solder sucker?
However... if you stop to examine to situation properly you will find that even that easy solder sucker solution can be avoided.
The older capacitors and resistors were quite large compared to modern components ( especially newer radial lead caps) and as such were placed into the circuit at convenient points constrained by the size of the big old part an the geography of the chassis.
I have found that sometimes a capacitor was connected from one tube pin terminal to a location several inches away elswhere in the circuit in search of the B+ or needed ground location.
However I have often found that the necessary circuit termination location point often times is located right next to or just a few tube pins away. This location was not originally used because the old component was just too big to connect to such a close point.
So why, I ask... with newer smaller components do we find a need to perpetuate the connections to distant terminal points originally selected for reasons of physical constraints that we now are NOT faced with???
So what I do is simply close-clip off the old termination point located several inches away and then I seek to re-locate the other 'new' end as close as practically possible. This reduces clutter and makes for much nicer dress. Even the original other end conection point can often be clipped right off too...right at its terminal too... and then that terminal re-heated slightly enough to melt the solder and then just slide the new component's nice thin new wire easily into the terminal and then wrap it as needed.
If any of you have ever looked closly at the images I've posted of the under-chassis circuits of my radios sold on Ebay you have seen how clean and organized a circuit can look .. all with relative ease.
And I might add that I am operating under a great handicap too.. ( due to an automobile fire years ago) I only have the use of most of one hand and a partial hand/stump on the other.
So I certainly don't have any particularly advanced dexterity whatsoever.. in fact quite the contrary...lol
MRO