Ok I have a zenith clunker chassis with no id on it whatsoever. It has a 50l6 output with 12 series detectors ect.( all american 5) looks like a fourties model. ("war tubes", no clips ect.)
This thing has no case and radio section is dead, so I just made a guitar amp out of it.
Hate to throw it out!
Now since I don not have a schematic and it has a rca input jack on it, does the input feed the 50L6 directly or is it going through one of the 12 series tubes? I am asking this as I found a hookup point that sounds pleasant as a clean channel better than just using the rca jack, but would
like to tinker a bit to get a second bluesier tone.
Is there an actual pre amp? or is all done with the output tube?

:Ok I have a zenith clunker chassis with no id on it whatsoever. It has a 50l6 output with 12 series detectors ect.( all american 5) looks like a fourties model. ("war tubes", no clips ect.)
:This thing has no case and radio section is dead, so I just made a guitar amp out of it.
:Hate to throw it out!
: Now since I don not have a schematic and it has a rca input jack on it, does the input feed the 50L6 directly or is it going through one of the 12 series tubes? I am asking this as I found a hookup point that sounds pleasant as a clean channel better than just using the rca jack, but would
:like to tinker a bit to get a second bluesier tone.
:Is there an actual pre amp? or is all done with the output tube?

You probobly have a 12SQ7 somewhere close to the 50L6.
This is the guy that does the amplifying, while the 50L6 does the heavy work. This being a series filament radio, you will need to leave the two RF tubes (12SA7 & 12SK7? We're going way back in memeory here!) or add a resistor to drop 24 Volts. I don't know the output of a guitar pickup compared to a crystal pickup, but in my teenage years I converted radios to use the new RCA 45 rpm changers that come on the market by putting a RCA jack and a spdt switch at the hot end of the volume control on many a young lady's radio. Too bad nerds were not yet cool, I only got a couiple of bucks, and she swooned over Elvis.

Lewis L.

thats why I played guitar lol!
I belive I do have the 'sq7 great now i'll fiddle around in that area!

::Ok I have a zenith clunker chassis with no id on it whatsoever. It has a 50l6 output with 12 series detectors ect.( all american 5) looks like a fourties model. ("war tubes", no clips ect.)
::This thing has no case and radio section is dead, so I just made a guitar amp out of it.
::Hate to throw it out!
:: Now since I don not have a schematic and it has a rca input jack on it, does the input feed the 50L6 directly or is it going through one of the 12 series tubes? I am asking this as I found a hookup point that sounds pleasant as a clean channel better than just using the rca jack, but would
::like to tinker a bit to get a second bluesier tone.
::Is there an actual pre amp? or is all done with the output tube?
:
:You probobly have a 12SQ7 somewhere close to the 50L6.
:This is the guy that does the amplifying, while the 50L6 does the heavy work. This being a series filament radio, you will need to leave the two RF tubes (12SA7 & 12SK7? We're going way back in memeory here!) or add a resistor to drop 24 Volts. I don't know the output of a guitar pickup compared to a crystal pickup, but in my teenage years I converted radios to use the new RCA 45 rpm changers that come on the market by putting a RCA jack and a spdt switch at the hot end of the volume control on many a young lady's radio. Too bad nerds were not yet cool, I only got a couiple of bucks, and she swooned over Elvis.
:
:Lewis L.
:
:

That Zenith is an ac/dc radio with no power transformer. If you plug in another device, you may encounter a hum problem or a shock hazard, depending on which way you plug the Zenith into the AC outlet. Be careful.

Rich

:thats why I played guitar lol!
:I belive I do have the 'sq7 great now i'll fiddle around in that area!
:
:::Ok I have a zenith clunker chassis with no id on it whatsoever. It has a 50l6 output with 12 series detectors ect.( all american 5) looks like a fourties model. ("war tubes", no clips ect.)
:::This thing has no case and radio section is dead, so I just made a guitar amp out of it.
:::Hate to throw it out!
::: Now since I don not have a schematic and it has a rca input jack on it, does the input feed the 50L6 directly or is it going through one of the 12 series tubes? I am asking this as I found a hookup point that sounds pleasant as a clean channel better than just using the rca jack, but would
:::like to tinker a bit to get a second bluesier tone.
:::Is there an actual pre amp? or is all done with the output tube?
::
::You probobly have a 12SQ7 somewhere close to the 50L6.
::This is the guy that does the amplifying, while the 50L6 does the heavy work. This being a series filament radio, you will need to leave the two RF tubes (12SA7 & 12SK7? We're going way back in memeory here!) or add a resistor to drop 24 Volts. I don't know the output of a guitar pickup compared to a crystal pickup, but in my teenage years I converted radios to use the new RCA 45 rpm changers that come on the market by putting a RCA jack and a spdt switch at the hot end of the volume control on many a young lady's radio. Too bad nerds were not yet cool, I only got a couiple of bucks, and she swooned over Elvis.
::
::Lewis L.
::
::

:That Zenith is an ac/dc radio with no power transformer. If you plug in another device, you may encounter a hum problem or a shock hazard, depending on which way you plug the Zenith into the AC outlet. Be careful.
:
:Rich
:Rich speaks with straight tongue. In this age of transistors and low Voltages, you forget that all of the series sets, that is AC/DC, have one side of the power line connect to the chassis, well some don't quite do it that way, but you could end up with 120 Volts on the strings of your guitar, and while that might make you sound like Chuck Berry for a while, it could also have you playing duets with Johnny Cash.
Lewis
:
:
::thats why I played guitar lol!
::I belive I do have the 'sq7 great now i'll fiddle around in that area!
::
::::Ok I have a zenith clunker chassis with no id on it whatsoever. It has a 50l6 output with 12 series detectors ect.( all american 5) looks like a fourties model. ("war tubes", no clips ect.)
::::This thing has no case and radio section is dead, so I just made a guitar amp out of it.
::::Hate to throw it out!
:::: Now since I don not have a schematic and it has a rca input jack on it, does the input feed the 50L6 directly or is it going through one of the 12 series tubes? I am asking this as I found a hookup point that sounds pleasant as a clean channel better than just using the rca jack, but would
::::like to tinker a bit to get a second bluesier tone.
::::Is there an actual pre amp? or is all done with the output tube?
:::
:::You probobly have a 12SQ7 somewhere close to the 50L6.
:::This is the guy that does the amplifying, while the 50L6 does the heavy work. This being a series filament radio, you will need to leave the two RF tubes (12SA7 & 12SK7? We're going way back in memeory here!) or add a resistor to drop 24 Volts. I don't know the output of a guitar pickup compared to a crystal pickup, but in my teenage years I converted radios to use the new RCA 45 rpm changers that come on the market by putting a RCA jack and a spdt switch at the hot end of the volume control on many a young lady's radio. Too bad nerds were not yet cool, I only got a couiple of bucks, and she swooned over Elvis.
:::
:::Lewis L.
:::
:::

Yeah. Be careful with that amp. Once I built a 5 tube AC/DC guitar amplifier for my brother. It worked quite well and even had vibrato. You can actually make use of the extra tubes in that radio for more power. Wire the 12SK7 as a pre-amplifier (which is what you really want with a magnetic pick-up.....the 12SQ7 isn't enough). Use 2700K and 30 MFD in parallel for the cathode and supressor (grid 3). Use 1 to 3 meg to B+ for the screen (B+ after the filter resistor). Connect a .1 MFD from the screen to B-. Use between 500K and 1 meg from the plate to B+ (again, after the filter resistor). Increasing the value increases gain and bass. Decrease for less bass. Connect a condenser between .01 and .002 MFD between the plate and the high end of the volume control. Larger value passes more bass. Reduce value and increase plate resistance for less bass and more gain. Connect a 1 meg from the 12SK7 grid 1 to B-. Connect a condenser between .002 and .01 MFD(possibly more) between grid 1 and the RCA jack center terminal (omit original connection to volume control).

Now, you can leave the pre-amp wide open and just control the volume after it. If you play loud, you can distort and still keep the speaker low. Another thing you can do is instead put the volume control at the beginning of the chain right at the RCA jack. However, if you want versatility, you can put in two volume controls. Leave the current one wired as-is. Then wire in another one (preferrably 1 meg for good gain) at the RCA jack. Turn the current one all the way up and use the one at the RCA jack if you want control without distortion. Turn the one at the RCA jack all the way up and the currently existing one down to where you want it if you want low volume and lots of distortion.

You can add even more pre-amplification if you want by putting changing the 12SA7 to a 12SK7, and then wire it as before. You can also wire the 12SA7 as a pre-amplifier. This tube is versatile, and can even be wired as both a pre-amplifier and a vibrato. My vibrato circuit isn't that good. It works alright at higher frequencies, but if slowed down really slow, it creates a popping sound. It is alright at normal frequencies, though--one's you'd use. I'm sure you can find better circuits in Fender schematics.

I recommend converting the radio so that it has pre-amplification. However, if you manage to get good volume out of the current set-up, you can disconnect the RF B supply all together, and get more power out of the output. Actually, even if you do wire in a pre-amplifier, load resistors are such that it will draw much less than the RF circuitry, so you'll still get a bit more power even with the tubes still drawing current.

T.

excellent!
I'll be tinkering with this now for the next month! :) Thanks for the tips Tom!

:Yeah. Be careful with that amp. Once I built a 5 tube AC/DC guitar amplifier for my brother. It worked quite well and even had vibrato. You can actually make use of the extra tubes in that radio for more power. Wire the 12SK7 as a pre-amplifier (which is what you really want with a magnetic pick-up.....the 12SQ7 isn't enough). Use 2700K and 30 MFD in parallel for the cathode and supressor (grid 3). Use 1 to 3 meg to B+ for the screen (B+ after the filter resistor). Connect a .1 MFD from the screen to B-. Use between 500K and 1 meg from the plate to B+ (again, after the filter resistor). Increasing the value increases gain and bass. Decrease for less bass. Connect a condenser between .01 and .002 MFD between the plate and the high end of the volume control. Larger value passes more bass. Reduce value and increase plate resistance for less bass and more gain. Connect a 1 meg from the 12SK7 grid 1 to B-. Connect a condenser between .002 and .01 MFD(possibly more) between grid 1 and the RCA jack center terminal (omit original connection to volume control).
:
:Now, you can leave the pre-amp wide open and just control the volume after it. If you play loud, you can distort and still keep the speaker low. Another thing you can do is instead put the volume control at the beginning of the chain right at the RCA jack. However, if you want versatility, you can put in two volume controls. Leave the current one wired as-is. Then wire in another one (preferrably 1 meg for good gain) at the RCA jack. Turn the current one all the way up and use the one at the RCA jack if you want control without distortion. Turn the one at the RCA jack all the way up and the currently existing one down to where you want it if you want low volume and lots of distortion.
:
:You can add even more pre-amplification if you want by putting changing the 12SA7 to a 12SK7, and then wire it as before. You can also wire the 12SA7 as a pre-amplifier. This tube is versatile, and can even be wired as both a pre-amplifier and a vibrato. My vibrato circuit isn't that good. It works alright at higher frequencies, but if slowed down really slow, it creates a popping sound. It is alright at normal frequencies, though--one's you'd use. I'm sure you can find better circuits in Fender schematics.
:
:I recommend converting the radio so that it has pre-amplification. However, if you manage to get good volume out of the current set-up, you can disconnect the RF B supply all together, and get more power out of the output. Actually, even if you do wire in a pre-amplifier, load resistors are such that it will draw much less than the RF circuitry, so you'll still get a bit more power even with the tubes still drawing current.
:
:T.

:Yeah. Be careful with that amp. Once I built a 5 tube AC/DC guitar amplifier for my brother. It worked quite well and even had vibrato. You can actually make use of the extra tubes in that radio for more power. Wire the 12SK7 as a pre-amplifier (which is what you really want with a magnetic pick-up.....the 12SQ7 isn't enough). Use 2700K and 30 MFD in parallel for the cathode and supressor (grid 3). Use 1 to 3 meg to B+ for the screen (B+ after the filter resistor). Connect a .1 MFD from the screen to B-. Use between 500K and 1 meg from the plate to B+ (again, after the filter resistor). Increasing the value increases gain and bass. Decrease for less bass. Connect a condenser between .01 and .002 MFD between the plate and the high end of the volume control. Larger value passes more bass. Reduce value and increase plate resistance for less bass and more gain. Connect a 1 meg from the 12SK7 grid 1 to B-. Connect a condenser between .002 and .01 MFD(possibly more) between grid 1 and the RCA jack center terminal (omit original connection to volume control).
:
:Now, you can leave the pre-amp wide open and just control the volume after it. If you play loud, you can distort and still keep the speaker low. Another thing you can do is instead put the volume control at the beginning of the chain right at the RCA jack. However, if you want versatility, you can put in two volume controls. Leave the current one wired as-is. Then wire in another one (preferrably 1 meg for good gain) at the RCA jack. Turn the current one all the way up and use the one at the RCA jack if you want control without distortion. Turn the one at the RCA jack all the way up and the currently existing one down to where you want it if you want low volume and lots of distortion.
:
:You can add even more pre-amplification if you want by putting changing the 12SA7 to a 12SK7, and then wire it as before. You can also wire the 12SA7 as a pre-amplifier. This tube is versatile, and can even be wired as both a pre-amplifier and a vibrato. My vibrato circuit isn't that good. It works alright at higher frequencies, but if slowed down really slow, it creates a popping sound. It is alright at normal frequencies, though--one's you'd use. I'm sure you can find better circuits in Fender schematics.
:
:I recommend converting the radio so that it has pre-amplification. However, if you manage to get good volume out of the current set-up, you can disconnect the RF B supply all together, and get more power out of the output. Actually, even if you do wire in a pre-amplifier, load resistors are such that it will draw much less than the RF circuitry, so you'll still get a bit more power even with the tubes still drawing current.
:
:T.

Tom-
Am I cutting out the 12sq7 all-together and running from input to 12sk7 then making your connections to output?
Do you know which stock diagram I would use so I can keep track of all my steps? I have no idea which model it is, but it sounds like you might.

::Yeah. Be careful with that amp. Once I built a 5 tube AC/DC guitar amplifier for my brother. It worked quite well and even had vibrato. You can actually make use of the extra tubes in that radio for more power. Wire the 12SK7 as a pre-amplifier (which is what you really want with a magnetic pick-up.....the 12SQ7 isn't enough). Use 2700K and 30 MFD in parallel for the cathode and supressor (grid 3). Use 1 to 3 meg to B+ for the screen (B+ after the filter resistor). Connect a .1 MFD from the screen to B-. Use between 500K and 1 meg from the plate to B+ (again, after the filter resistor). Increasing the value increases gain and bass. Decrease for less bass. Connect a condenser between .01 and .002 MFD between the plate and the high end of the volume control. Larger value passes more bass. Reduce value and increase plate resistance for less bass and more gain. Connect a 1 meg from the 12SK7 grid 1 to B-. Connect a condenser between .002 and .01 MFD(possibly more) between grid 1 and the RCA jack center terminal (omit original connection to volume control).
::
::Now, you can leave the pre-amp wide open and just control the volume after it. If you play loud, you can distort and still keep the speaker low. Another thing you can do is instead put the volume control at the beginning of the chain right at the RCA jack. However, if you want versatility, you can put in two volume controls. Leave the current one wired as-is. Then wire in another one (preferrably 1 meg for good gain) at the RCA jack. Turn the current one all the way up and use the one at the RCA jack if you want control without distortion. Turn the one at the RCA jack all the way up and the currently existing one down to where you want it if you want low volume and lots of distortion.
::
::You can add even more pre-amplification if you want by putting changing the 12SA7 to a 12SK7, and then wire it as before. You can also wire the 12SA7 as a pre-amplifier. This tube is versatile, and can even be wired as both a pre-amplifier and a vibrato. My vibrato circuit isn't that good. It works alright at higher frequencies, but if slowed down really slow, it creates a popping sound. It is alright at normal frequencies, though--one's you'd use. I'm sure you can find better circuits in Fender schematics.
::
::I recommend converting the radio so that it has pre-amplification. However, if you manage to get good volume out of the current set-up, you can disconnect the RF B supply all together, and get more power out of the output. Actually, even if you do wire in a pre-amplifier, load resistors are such that it will draw much less than the RF circuitry, so you'll still get a bit more power even with the tubes still drawing current.
::
::T.
:
:Tom-
:Am I cutting out the 12sq7 all-together and running from input to 12sk7 then making your connections to output?
:Do you know which stock diagram I would use so I can keep track of all my steps? I have no idea which model it is, but it sounds like you might.

Blackbird, QUIT IT. It's too dangerous and old amps to use for guitars are cheap and everywhere. The strings will carry the hot current and could shock/kill when you touch them. Your unit is not something to learn on, Use it for radio parts and look for an old record player or console unit with a power transformer. I just bought one for $15. Look for a unit with a big power transformer and a smaller output transformer and avoid tube numbers that add up to wall voltage like 35L6/50L6. Look for 6V6/EL84 type power tubes and 12AX7 preamp tubes. Go to www.ampage.org for schematics, layouts and actual photos plus online help, Enzo is very good, he runs a repair shop in Mich. I think. Look at the tweed Fender Champ and Deluxe and be sure to remove the death cap shown on old schematics and replace it with a modern 3-prong plug. There are plenty of effects to add also.

Sorry for the long delay. If you use your amplifier on carpeting or hardwood, it isn't dangerous. If you use it with other instruments and amplifiers, or anywhere where there are exposed grounds (or even a moist environment), however, it will give shocks and possibly be dangerous. I think that it'll be a cool thing to work on for you to learn stuff, but do be careful. If you use it only for practice on your own, then fine.

Regarding the amplifier, no, you are not cutting out the 12SQ7. You are adding a preamplifier to the existing amplifier. When you're done, you'll have a 50L6, 12SQ7, and 12SK7 for your amplifier. The 12SA7 will serve simply as a filament ballast. The 35Z5 will be your rectifier. You may simply leave the 12SK7 wide open and keep the volume control on the 12SQ7, or you may also add another volume control to the 12SK7.

If you want to make your amplifier safe, put a 3 wire grounded cord on it. Put the switch on the hot side instead of the chassis side (wire it to the line wire that goes to the 35Z5). Connect the neutral and the ground wires of the line cord to the chassis or to B- if the set uses an isolated chassis. Wiring the amplifier in this way will assure that the chassis is always grounded if plugged into a grounded outlet.

As he says, basically a series-filament wired radio, with no HV xfmr, is a serious risk when converted to a guitar amp or anything which a potentially unprotected chassis could be live and fed through the cables. Good grounding is a must, and even if you do know what you are doing and do well at it, I'd never sell one of these as it could kill someone else that may have a certain faulty house wiring setup, where perhaps even the ground pin may be messed up and not actually go to ground on their outlet. There are a lot of not-so-smart electricians and DIY houses as well that might not be up to snuff on this.

:As he says, basically a series-filament wired radio, with no HV xfmr, is a serious risk when converted to a guitar amp or anything which a potentially unprotected chassis could be live and fed through the cables. Good grounding is a must, and even if you do know what you are doing and do well at it, I'd never sell one of these as it could kill someone else that may have a certain faulty house wiring setup, where perhaps even the ground pin may be messed up and not actually go to ground on their outlet. There are a lot of not-so-smart electricians and DIY houses as well that might not be up to snuff on this.
:

I second that thought. I have seen the lead singer during one of my gigs fell on the floor after "kissing" the mike...I took readings of 120V between the mike shell and his guitar strings...Painful apparently. Never use a transformerless amp as a guitar or worse, an harp amp...

Not long ago, my Bro' also felt "funny tingles" after touching the other guitarist. One of the two was using a transformerless amp modified as a pratice amp...

Z-

Safe practice is ofter derived by what is called "what if statements". For example: What if after I leave planet earth sombody inhearits my modified transformerless amplifier. Will they know enough about it to prevent from getting shocked? Such as not using three prong to two prong cheater plugs on ungrounded outlets. What if, as mentioned, a creative home remodeler doesn't know his hot from his neutral. Good old smoking fingers. Maybe that is where Frank Zappa got his name. Please err on the side of safety. Use an isolation transformer. Also try to think of other scenarios where this amp may be used down the road. Put a warning label on the chasis stating that the chasis could potentially be hot. I wonder if that preacher that got electrocuted last year in Texas during a baptism was the victim of creative wiring. The microphone he used was apparently hot. Take the smoke out of smokin tunes.

MRO

:Safe practice is ofter derived by what is called "what if statements". For example: What if after I leave planet earth sombody inhearits my modified transformerless amplifier. Will they know enough about it to prevent from getting shocked? Such as not using three prong to two prong cheater plugs on ungrounded outlets. What if, as mentioned, a creative home remodeler doesn't know his hot from his neutral. Good old smoking fingers. Maybe that is where Frank Zappa got his name. Please err on the side of safety. Use an isolation transformer. Also try to think of other scenarios where this amp may be used down the road. Put a warning label on the chasis stating that the chasis could potentially be hot. I wonder if that preacher that got electrocuted last year in Texas during a baptism was the victim of creative wiring. The microphone he used was apparently hot. Take the smoke out of smokin tunes.
:
:MRO

Just don't use it dude. Look for a transformer unit to convert. I see them on the side of road sometimes.

:Safe practice is ofter derived by what is called "what if statements". For example: What if after I leave planet earth sombody inhearits my modified transformerless amplifier. Will they know enough about it to prevent from getting shocked? Such as not using three prong to two prong cheater plugs on ungrounded outlets. What if, as mentioned, a creative home remodeler doesn't know his hot from his neutral. Good old smoking fingers. Maybe that is where Frank Zappa got his name. Please err on the side of safety. Use an isolation transformer. Also try to think of other scenarios where this amp may be used down the road. Put a warning label on the chasis stating that the chasis could potentially be hot. I wonder if that preacher that got electrocuted last year in Texas during a baptism was the victim of creative wiring. The microphone he used was apparently hot. Take the smoke out of smokin tunes.
:
:MRO

Just don't use it dude. Look for a transformer unit to convert. I see them on the side of road sometimes.

When my wife and I first got married, we bought an older home, one with grounded outlets but no GFCIs. Visiting Home Depot one Saturday, which people who buy older homes do, I spotted a box of GFCIs that are wired into the wall in place of an outlet. I bought some and installed one in the kitchen controlling outlets near the sink. I think it was the very next day, or close to it, my wife complained of a slight shock and a "snap from that thing you put in the wall". She had been washing an old two prong toaster, still plugged into the wall "but it wasn't turned on" and she turned on the water while holding the toaster. I measured zero Ohms from one side of the plug (not polarized) and the case, just before I sent the toaster to toaster heaven. I became a Johnny Appleseed about GFCIs.

Lewis L.

Again, to everyone, good idea to be cautious. We've told him all of the risks. Let's not be parinoid, though. There is no reason why he shouldn't build this as a practice guitar amplifier. If he's smart and he knows how to use it, it'll be a fun project with junk-box parts. If he zaps himself, it'll be his own fault.

Hopefully he won't decide to wash it with the plug still in the wall.

I'm hoping that he's smart. If he isn't, then that's his own problem. He's not looking to sell it. It's just a personal project of his. I'd never recommend selling an AC/DC guitar amp. That'd be terrible. I'm just saying that I built one of these when I was younger. It was cheap and easy to build, and taught me a lot. I encourage him to build it if he will only be cautious and smart. It is a good project. Sure, a transformer would be better. This is just a junk box project, though.

Thomas

:I'm hoping that he's smart. If he isn't, then that's his own problem. He's not looking to sell it. It's just a personal project of his. I'd never recommend selling an AC/DC guitar amp. That'd be terrible. I'm just saying that I built one of these when I was younger. It was cheap and easy to build, and taught me a lot. I encourage him to build it if he will only be cautious and smart. It is a good project. Sure, a transformer would be better. This is just a junk box project, though.
:
:Thomas

Thomas, we understand what you mean. I'm not sure that blackbird has enough experience to be smart yet though. The no-transformer circuit mixed with the guitar string-ground circuit is just too deadly, he'll learn the same thing with a transformer circuit plus have known schematics for 6V6s to get the blues sound that he desires. It'll still be a junk project, heck most of the stuff around my house are junk projects, but I think they're beautiful. Blackbird here's what I look for and most are free, I even got a 12" Jensen in a 60's console once, a P12P actually. Have fun, Charlie.
http://cgi.ebay.com/VINTAGE-VM-VOICE-OF-MUSIC-RECORD-PLAYER_W0QQitemZ280078091969QQihZ018QQcategoryZ1442QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Well, if he can read, he can get the picture about AC/DC devices. When I made AC/DC devices, I wasn't that experienced. However, I did have the brains enough to comprehend people saying that the chassis is live, and that it'll kill you if you touch a grounded object (whether it be a water pipe or a guitar/microphone that's connected to a properly grounded amplifier). Also, upon wiring the amplifier, I also quite readily saw that there actually was a connection between the chassis and the line cord that I made myself. I, and anyone else who has actually wired an AC/DC chassis, would have to be a complete moron not to realize the danger when a connection is made between the chassis and the line cord, especially after being told about this a hundred times before hand by the overly concerned people of Nostalgia Air (one or two simple warnings should suffice).

Now that we've reiterated the subject about 10 times, do you think he has a clue as to what we are talking about, or do we have to go over it another 10 times?

Seriously, people!

Thomas

:Well, if he can read, he can get the picture about AC/DC devices. When I made AC/DC devices, I wasn't that experienced. However, I did have the brains enough to comprehend people saying that the chassis is live, and that it'll kill you if you touch a grounded object (whether it be a water pipe or a guitar/microphone that's connected to a properly grounded amplifier). Also, upon wiring the amplifier, I also quite readily saw that there actually was a connection between the chassis and the line cord that I made myself. I, and anyone else who has actually wired an AC/DC chassis, would have to be a complete moron not to realize the danger when a connection is made between the chassis and the line cord, especially after being told about this a hundred times before hand by the overly concerned people of Nostalgia Air (one or two simple warnings should suffice).
:
:Now that we've reiterated the subject about 10 times, do you think he has a clue as to what we are talking about, or do we have to go over it another 10 times?
:
:Seriously, people!
:
:Thomas

Lol
Yeah it's just for fun and learning actually, a practice amp that just I would use myself, no live gigs ect. I was actually going to ground it and add a fuse. I was just curious to hear the sound of an amp using something different than the usual 12ax7 pre.
Thanks for all the concern!
Thanks god I am not making an amp out of a microwave!
lol!!!!

12AX7 is a high-mu triode with high gain. A 12SQ7 is also a high-mu triode with high gain. I believe that they will sound similar. 12AX7 may either be wired for push-pull (cleaner sound), or may be wired for two stages. This makes for an amplifier and a pre-amplifier all in one tube. Your typical guitar amplifier may also have one or more other tubes for pre-amplifiers, as guitars require quite a bit of gain. Triodes offer less gain, but tend to offer a more natural sound. Pentodes, like the 12SK7 pre-amplifier I explained, give more gain, but some feel that they aren't as natural sounding, especially when used in the output section (50L6 or 35L6). Negative feedback can eliminate this problem, but also reduces gain. I typically put negative feedback into my radios, because I find it makes them easier to listen to.

Have fun. If you want, I can draw you a schematic, with variables and ideas, and even a negative feedback circuit. If you want, you can make the amplifier have push-pull for more punch and fine sound. It actually is possible to make a fine push-pull amplifier using a 35Z5, 35L6, 35L6, 12SQ7, and 12SK7. You will need a different output transformer, though. You will want a better speaker than the original radio speaker, too. An 8 inch speaker with nice full range will be fine (nothing fancy, unless you want crisp treble...then a coaxal cone is a must). If you're looking to just stick to the parts at hand, then you can keep it as single-ended. Adjustable negative feedback will allow you to play around with the tonal characteristics, as well as a bass and treble control.

:12AX7 is a high-mu triode with high gain. A 12SQ7 is also a high-mu triode with high gain. I believe that they will sound similar. 12AX7 may either be wired for push-pull (cleaner sound), or may be wired for two stages. This makes for an amplifier and a pre-amplifier all in one tube. Your typical guitar amplifier may also have one or more other tubes for pre-amplifiers, as guitars require quite a bit of gain. Triodes offer less gain, but tend to offer a more natural sound. Pentodes, like the 12SK7 pre-amplifier I explained, give more gain, but some feel that they aren't as natural sounding, especially when used in the output section (50L6 or 35L6). Negative feedback can eliminate this problem, but also reduces gain. I typically put negative feedback into my radios, because I find it makes them easier to listen to.
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:Have fun. If you want, I can draw you a schematic, with variables and ideas, and even a negative feedback circuit. If you want, you can make the amplifier have push-pull for more punch and fine sound. It actually is possible to make a fine push-pull amplifier using a 35Z5, 35L6, 35L6, 12SQ7, and 12SK7. You will need a different output transformer, though. You will want a better speaker than the original radio speaker, too. An 8 inch speaker with nice full range will be fine (nothing fancy, unless you want crisp treble...then a coaxal cone is a must). If you're looking to just stick to the parts at hand, then you can keep it as single-ended. Adjustable negative feedback will allow you to play around with the tonal characteristics, as well as a bass and treble control.
Yes I am better with schematics then puting a picture in my head.
I have already upped the speaker to a 10" fender, I figured the output xformer would be next!
The sound I am trying to capture is something simular to a old JTM45 (marshall).
Here's an email addy goldfingerz@adelphia.net

:Well, if he can read, he can get the picture about AC/DC devices. When I made AC/DC devices, I wasn't that experienced. However, I did have the brains enough to comprehend people saying that the chassis is live, and that it'll kill you if you touch a grounded object (whether it be a water pipe or a guitar/microphone that's connected to a properly grounded amplifier). Also, upon wiring the amplifier, I also quite readily saw that there actually was a connection between the chassis and the line cord that I made myself. I, and anyone else who has actually wired an AC/DC chassis, would have to be a complete moron not to realize the danger when a connection is made between the chassis and the line cord, especially after being told about this a hundred times before hand by the overly concerned people of Nostalgia Air (one or two simple warnings should suffice).
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:Now that we've reiterated the subject about 10 times, do you think he has a clue as to what we are talking about, or do we have to go over it another 10 times?
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:Seriously, people!
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:Thomas

Stay on the carpet, I've got it now.