HELLO, working on a generic radio........that had hum in it 4 volts of ac on the b+....so I dedided to try more capacitance....so either my caps are bad brand new or this radio needs more........I have 4 tubes 80 24 24 and a 47....so with 32 mfd it is not too bad and radio actually works now.....but when is it too much mfd, how can one tell when its too much......I dont understand why this radio wants this much but I dont have a schematic for it ........just have a cap in a retangular tall metal thin box. I would assume there are 2 or 3 caps in this can.....there were 4 wires coming out of it and one was black, two were soldered together and one I forget where It went

:forgot to add that the ac ripple is a little over 2 volts now

:HELLO, working on a generic radio........that had hum in it 4 volts of ac on the b+....so I dedided to try more capacitance....so either my caps are bad brand new or this radio needs more........I have 4 tubes 80 24 24 and a 47....so with 32 mfd it is not too bad and radio actually works now.....but when is it too much mfd, how can one tell when its too much......I dont understand why this radio wants this much but I dont have a schematic for it ........just have a cap in a retangular tall metal thin box. I would assume there are 2 or 3 caps in this can.....there were 4 wires coming out of it and one was black, two were soldered together and one I forget where It went
:

Sean,

The rule of thumb is to replace with no more than 50 percent more capacity than the original. You can put in more, but you will quickly find an upper limit with little or no return on reducing hum. The goal is to put in no more than needed, because upon
initial powering up the strain on everything before the cap...like the rectifier tube and transformer...becomes considerable (high current) as the too-big-for-the-job cap charges up.
So, if you've got a 32 mfd in there now, I wouldn't go higher. Considering the radio's tube lineup, the set probably had something like 8-20 mfd. And more than one. Also, you don't want to be bridging the old cap with the new, since the old cap (now leaking) is really just a resistor around your new cap...possibly a reason you need more capacitance than normal.
If it were me, I would dig into the can and replicate the insides. There could be a choke in there. If the can is full of that black hi-temp wax you can soften everything up by placing the can in a low heat oven on a sheet of heavy foil. When it's really gooey and starting to ooze out, gently pry the stuff out in a big glob, then try and poke thru and see what's what.
Jim

Sean

I agree with Jim, don't go over 32 mf at filament of your 80 tube. Shouldn't need that much unless someone replaced the speaker field with a resistor? After the field extra filter capacity isn't a problem but very high shouldn't be needed. Did you remove the original filter caps? Sometimes caps with 2 inside have leakage between the sections.

:Sean,
:
:The rule of thumb is to replace with no more than 50 percent more capacity than the original. You can put in more, but you will quickly find an upper limit with little or no return on reducing hum. The goal is to put in no more than needed, because upon
:initial powering up the strain on everything before the cap...like the rectifier tube and transformer...becomes considerable (high current) as the too-big-for-the-job cap charges up.
:So, if you've got a 32 mfd in there now, I wouldn't go higher. Considering the radio's tube lineup, the set probably had something like 8-20 mfd. And more than one. Also, you don't want to be bridging the old cap with the new, since the old cap (now leaking) is really just a resistor around your new cap...possibly a reason you need more capacitance than normal.
:If it were me, I would dig into the can and replicate the insides. There could be a choke in there. If the can is full of that black hi-temp wax you can soften everything up by placing the can in a low heat oven on a sheet of heavy foil. When it's really gooey and starting to ooze out, gently pry the stuff out in a big glob, then try and poke thru and see what's what.
:Jim

According to these specs. the max is 32uf
http://www.radiomuseum.org/tubes/tube_80.html

:well this is the no name radio I have been working on.I just cut it out of the circuit..and replaced the caps with 2 10 micros before and after the field coil..had some good hum to it so I added another 10 uf and it was better. took out that extra 10 uf and decided to try a 22 uf to ground and that was even better.....so heck I now have 42uf in there for test purposes only............I guess the real way to find out is test the amperage drawn on start up, if it doesnt go over the max then I would be good..........maybe.....lol......
:According to these specs. the max is 32uf
:http://www.radiomuseum.org/tubes/tube_80.html

Sean,

If your speaker has a hum bucking winding, try reversing it's leads and see if the hum is reduced.

Radiodoc

::well this is the no name radio I have been working on.I just cut it out of the circuit..and replaced the caps with 2 10 micros before and after the field coil..had some good hum to it so I added another 10 uf and it was better. took out that extra 10 uf and decided to try a 22 uf to ground and that was even better.....so heck I now have 42uf in there for test purposes only............I guess the real way to find out is test the amperage drawn on start up, if it doesnt go over the max then I would be good..........maybe.....lol......
::According to these specs. the max is 32uf
::http://www.radiomuseum.org/tubes/tube_80.html

:well I reconed the speaker, not sure about the quality job I did but it works......the hum is not bad right now but I think thats due to the fact that I have not much volume anyway.......the most noticeable problem right now is the arcing between the filiment terminal and the plate terminal underneath the chassis........any thing like turning on a halogen light or connecting an antenna will make it arc.......it does this constantly when I turn on the halogen lamp I have about half way on the lamps dimmer switch.........so basically......the output section is overloaded maybe or something I dont know.....
:
:Sean,
:
:If your speaker has a hum bucking winding, try reversing it's leads and see if the hum is reduced.
:
:Radiodoc
:
:
:::well this is the no name radio I have been working on.I just cut it out of the circuit..and replaced the caps with 2 10 micros before and after the field coil..had some good hum to it so I added another 10 uf and it was better. took out that extra 10 uf and decided to try a 22 uf to ground and that was even better.....so heck I now have 42uf in there for test purposes only............I guess the real way to find out is test the amperage drawn on start up, if it doesnt go over the max then I would be good..........maybe.....lol......
:::According to these specs. the max is 32uf
:::http://www.radiomuseum.org/tubes/tube_80.html

:it was having some hum last night but not sure if I messed something up or if it was because there was no cone in the speaker.....nothing but voice coil.....so I tried to make a cone and put it in...either way my uneducated guess is something is loading down or whatever, making the 47 tube arc inside it and underneath at the 47 tube socket

::well I reconed the speaker, not sure about the quality job I did but it works......the hum is not bad right now but I think thats due to the fact that I have not much volume anyway.......the most noticeable problem right now is the arcing between the filiment terminal and the plate terminal underneath the chassis........any thing like turning on a halogen light or connecting an antenna will make it arc.......it does this constantly when I turn on the halogen lamp I have about half way on the lamps dimmer switch.........so basically......the output section is overloaded maybe or something I dont know.....
::
::Sean,
::
::If your speaker has a hum bucking winding, try reversing it's leads and see if the hum is reduced.
::
::Radiodoc
::
::
::::well this is the no name radio I have been working on.I just cut it out of the circuit..and replaced the caps with 2 10 micros before and after the field coil..had some good hum to it so I added another 10 uf and it was better. took out that extra 10 uf and decided to try a 22 uf to ground and that was even better.....so heck I now have 42uf in there for test purposes only............I guess the real way to find out is test the amperage drawn on start up, if it doesnt go over the max then I would be good..........maybe.....lol......
::::According to these specs. the max is 32uf
::::http://www.radiomuseum.org/tubes/tube_80.html

::well I reconed the speaker, not sure about the quality job I did but it works......the hum is not bad right now but I think thats due to the fact that I have not much volume anyway.......the most noticeable problem right now is the arcing between the filiment terminal and the plate terminal underneath the chassis........any thing like turning on a halogen light or connecting an antenna will make it arc.......it does this constantly when I turn on the halogen lamp I have about half way on the lamps dimmer switch.........so basically......the output section is overloaded maybe or something I dont know.....
::
::Sean,
::
::If your speaker has a hum bucking winding, try reversing it's leads and see if the hum is reduced.
::
::Radiodoc
::
::
::::well this is the no name radio I have been working on.I just cut it out of the circuit..and replaced the caps with 2 10 micros before and after the field coil..had some good hum to it so I added another 10 uf and it was better. took out that extra 10 uf and decided to try a 22 uf to ground and that was even better.....so heck I now have 42uf in there for test purposes only............I guess the real way to find out is test the amperage drawn on start up, if it doesnt go over the max then I would be good..........maybe.....lol......
::::According to these specs. the max is 32uf
::::http://www.radiomuseum.org/tubes/tube_80.html

:::well I reconed the speaker, not sure about the quality job I did but it works......the hum is not bad right now but I think thats due to the fact that I have not much volume anyway.......the most noticeable problem right now is the arcing between the filiment terminal and the plate terminal underneath the chassis........any thing like turning on a halogen light or connecting an antenna will make it arc.......it does this constantly when I turn on the halogen lamp I have about half way on the lamps dimmer switch.........so basically......the output section is overloaded maybe or something I dont know.....
:::
:::Sean,
:::
:::If your speaker has a hum bucking winding, try reversing it's leads and see if the hum is reduced.
:::
:::Radiodoc
:::
:::
:::::well this is the no name radio I have been working on.I just cut it out of the circuit..and replaced the caps with 2 10 micros before and after
Sean,

If there is arcing between pins on the rectifier socket, may have to replace the socket. The socket is probably made of a fibre type substance and may have a carbon track between the pins.

Radiodoc

the field coil..had some good hum to it so I added another 10 uf and it was better. took out that extra 10 uf and decided to try a 22 uf to ground and that was even better.....so heck I now have 42uf in there for test purposes only............I guess the real way to find out is test the amperage drawn on start up, if it doesnt go over the max then I would be good..........maybe.....lol......
:::::According to these specs. the max is 32uf
:::::http://www.radiomuseum.org/tubes/tube_80.html

:ok I can fix the socket, but it also arcs inside the 47 tube and I know it isnt the tube, tried 2 of them
..so whats causing the arcing when I turn on major interference like a halogen lamp onhalf way

::::well I reconed the speaker, not sure about the quality job I did but it works......the hum is not bad right now but I think thats due to the fact that I have not much volume anyway.......the most noticeable problem right now is the arcing between the filiment terminal and the plate terminal underneath the chassis........any thing like turning on a halogen light or connecting an antenna will make it arc.......it does this constantly when I turn on the halogen lamp I have about half way on the lamps dimmer switch.........so basically......the output section is overloaded maybe or something I dont know.....
::::
::::Sean,
::::
::::If your speaker has a hum bucking winding, try reversing it's leads and see if the hum is reduced.
::::
::::Radiodoc
::::
::::
::::::well this is the no name radio I have been working on.I just cut it out of the circuit..and replaced the caps with 2 10 micros before and after
:Sean,
:
:If there is arcing between pins on the rectifier socket, may have to replace the socket. The socket is probably made of a fibre type substance and may have a carbon track between the pins.
:
:Radiodoc
:
:the field coil..had some good hum to it so I added another 10 uf and it was better. took out that extra 10 uf and decided to try a 22 uf to ground and that was even better.....so heck I now have 42uf in there for test purposes only............I guess the real way to find out is test the amperage drawn on start up, if it doesnt go over the max then I would be good..........maybe.....lol......
::::::According to these specs. the max is 32uf
::::::http://www.radiomuseum.org/tubes/tube_80.html

Hi, I would like to get the output section working correctly.........theres 89 volts across the field coil so I guess that is workin properly......how would I go about injecting a signal into the 47 tube to produce output at the speaker? or maybe I should try somethign else?........it seems I have very low volume......can hardly hear it.....so I need to test the audio section but not sure how to go about it..hell the speaker output transformer or the speaker itself could be at fault

::ok I can fix the socket, but it also arcs inside the 47 tube and I know it isnt the tube, tried 2 of them
:..so whats causing the arcing when I turn on major interference like a halogen lamp onhalf way
:
:
:::::well I reconed the speaker, not sure about the quality job I did but it works......the hum is not bad right now but I think thats due to the fact that I have not much volume anyway.......the most noticeable problem right now is the arcing between the filiment terminal and the plate terminal underneath the chassis........any thing like turning on a halogen light or connecting an antenna will make it arc.......it does this constantly when I turn on the halogen lamp I have about half way on the lamps dimmer switch.........so basically......the output section is overloaded maybe or something I dont know.....
:::::
:::::Sean,
:::::
:::::If your speaker has a hum bucking winding, try reversing it's leads and see if the hum is reduced.
:::::
:::::Radiodoc
:::::
:::::
:::::::well this is the no name radio I have been working on.I just cut it out of the circuit..and replaced the caps with 2 10 micros before and after
::Sean,
::
::If there is arcing between pins on the rectifier socket, may have to replace the socket. The socket is probably made of a fibre type substance and may have a carbon track between the pins.
::
::Radiodoc
::
::the field coil..had some good hum to it so I added another 10 uf and it was better. took out that extra 10 uf and decided to try a 22 uf to ground and that was even better.....so heck I now have 42uf in there for test purposes only............I guess the real way to find out is test the amperage drawn on start up, if it doesnt go over the max then I would be good..........maybe.....lol......
:::::::According to these specs. the max is 32uf
:::::::http://www.radiomuseum.org/tubes/tube_80.html

hi its not the rectifier thats arcing, its the 47 out put tube and it arced in a different spot after I cleaned it.........its arcing a 16 of an inch across to the socket rivet from the plate. the arc is in the air from the solder joint of the plate terminal to the rivet..............this is after I sprayed tuner cleaner over the other spot.......wish I could just hook the speaker up to something else

::::well I reconed the speaker, not sure about the quality job I did but it works......the hum is not bad right now but I think thats due to the fact that I have not much volume anyway.......the most noticeable problem right now is the arcing between the filiment terminal and the plate terminal underneath the chassis........any thing like turning on a halogen light or connecting an antenna will make it arc.......it does this constantly when I turn on the halogen lamp I have about half way on the lamps dimmer switch.........so basically......the output section is overloaded maybe or something I dont know.....
::::
::::Sean,
::::
::::If your speaker has a hum bucking winding, try reversing it's leads and see if the hum is reduced.
::::
::::Radiodoc
::::
::::
::::::well this is the no name radio I have been working on.I just cut it out of the circuit..and replaced the caps with 2 10 micros before and after
:Sean,
:
:If there is arcing between pins on the rectifier socket, may have to replace the socket. The socket is probably made of a fibre type substance and may have a carbon track between the pins.
:
:Radiodoc
:
:the field coil..had some good hum to it so I added another 10 uf and it was better. took out that extra 10 uf and decided to try a 22 uf to ground and that was even better.....so heck I now have 42uf in there for test purposes only............I guess the real way to find out is test the amperage drawn on start up, if it doesnt go over the max then I would be good..........maybe.....lol......
::::::According to these specs. the max is 32uf
::::::http://www.radiomuseum.org/tubes/tube_80.html

Be careful with tuner cleaner. Some of these products contain a lubricant, which leave a residue behind.

:hi its not the rectifier thats arcing, its the 47 out put tube and it arced in a different spot after I cleaned it.........its arcing a 16 of an inch across to the socket rivet from the plate. the arc is in the air from the solder joint of the plate terminal to the rivet..............this is after I sprayed tuner cleaner over the other spot.......wish I could just hook the speaker up to something else
:
:::::well I reconed the speaker, not sure about the quality job I did but it works......the hum is not bad right now but I think thats due to the fact that I have not much volume anyway.......the most noticeable problem right now is the arcing between the filiment terminal and the plate terminal underneath the chassis........any thing like turning on a halogen light or connecting an antenna will make it arc.......it does this constantly when I turn on the halogen lamp I have about half way on the lamps dimmer switch.........so basically......the output section is overloaded maybe or something I dont know.....
:::::
:::::Sean,
:::::
:::::If your speaker has a hum bucking winding, try reversing it's leads and see if the hum is reduced.
:::::
:::::Radiodoc
:::::
:::::
:::::::well this is the no name radio I have been working on.I just cut it out of the circuit..and replaced the caps with 2 10 micros before and after
::Sean,
::
::If there is arcing between pins on the rectifier socket, may have to replace the socket. The socket is probably made of a fibre type substance and may have a carbon track between the pins.
::
::Radiodoc
::
::the field coil..had some good hum to it so I added another 10 uf and it was better. took out that extra 10 uf and decided to try a 22 uf to ground and that was even better.....so heck I now have 42uf in there for test purposes only............I guess the real way to find out is test the amperage drawn on start up, if it doesnt go over the max then I would be good..........maybe.....lol......
:::::::According to these specs. the max is 32uf
:::::::http://www.radiomuseum.org/tubes/tube_80.html

:I think i need a new audio output transformer...because I can put my ear next to the transformer and it is just as loud if not louder than the voice coil. Its sounds like its distorted too...when volume is up all the way.......either way is not loud at all. I measured the primary side and its 567 ohms, secondary side is 1 ohms...with voice coil connected........I guess i just get the universal 2 watt one from antique electronics that has the same resistance values.........think its about 25 bucks

:Be careful with tuner cleaner. Some of these products contain a lubricant, which leave a residue behind.
:
:
::hi its not the rectifier thats arcing, its the 47 out put tube and it arced in a different spot after I cleaned it.........its arcing a 16 of an inch across to the socket rivet from the plate. the arc is in the air from the solder joint of the plate terminal to the rivet..............this is after I sprayed tuner cleaner over the other spot.......wish I could just hook the speaker up to something else
::
::::::well I reconed the speaker, not sure about the quality job I did but it works......the hum is not bad right now but I think thats due to the fact that I have not much volume anyway.......the most noticeable problem right now is the arcing between the filiment terminal and the plate terminal underneath the chassis........any thing like turning on a halogen light or connecting an antenna will make it arc.......it does this constantly when I turn on the halogen lamp I have about half way on the lamps dimmer switch.........so basically......the output section is overloaded maybe or something I dont know.....
::::::
::::::Sean,
::::::
::::::If your speaker has a hum bucking winding, try reversing it's leads and see if the hum is reduced.
::::::
::::::Radiodoc
::::::
::::::
::::::::well this is the no name radio I have been working on.I just cut it out of the circuit..and replaced the caps with 2 10 micros before and after
:::Sean,
:::
:::If there is arcing between pins on the rectifier socket, may have to replace the socket. The socket is probably made of a fibre type substance and may have a carbon track between the pins.
:::
:::Radiodoc
:::
:::the field coil..had some good hum to it so I added another 10 uf and it was better. took out that extra 10 uf and decided to try a 22 uf to ground and that was even better.....so heck I now have 42uf in there for test purposes only............I guess the real way to find out is test the amperage drawn on start up, if it doesnt go over the max then I would be good..........maybe.....lol......
::::::::According to these specs. the max is 32uf
::::::::http://www.radiomuseum.org/tubes/tube_80.html

;AS far as the arcing, I think I may have stopped that....I was trying to get the volume control wirewould pot to work correctly and was adjusting the wiper contact inside.....well the wiper contact was touching the metal body of the pot in some parts and not the resistance wire like it should have.....well now it reads ok the whole wiper travel range.0 to about 10k......it used to read open at the higher end of the travel.......well it was reading open because it was being lifted by the body of the potentiometer...and I wonder if it was being affected by the on off switch on it...stray voltage? from line? anyway I cant get the 47 tube to arc now

:Be careful with tuner cleaner. Some of these products contain a lubricant, which leave a residue behind.
:
:
::hi its not the rectifier thats arcing, its the 47 out put tube and it arced in a different spot after I cleaned it.........its arcing a 16 of an inch across to the socket rivet from the plate. the arc is in the air from the solder joint of the plate terminal to the rivet..............this is after I sprayed tuner cleaner over the other spot.......wish I could just hook the speaker up to something else
::
::::::well I reconed the speaker, not sure about the quality job I did but it works......the hum is not bad right now but I think thats due to the fact that I have not much volume anyway.......the most noticeable problem right now is the arcing between the filiment terminal and the plate terminal underneath the chassis........any thing like turning on a halogen light or connecting an antenna will make it arc.......it does this constantly when I turn on the halogen lamp I have about half way on the lamps dimmer switch.........so basically......the output section is overloaded maybe or something I dont know.....
::::::
::::::Sean,
::::::
::::::If your speaker has a hum bucking winding, try reversing it's leads and see if the hum is reduced.
::::::
::::::Radiodoc
::::::
::::::
::::::::well this is the no name radio I have been working on.I just cut it out of the circuit..and replaced the caps with 2 10 micros before and after
:::Sean,
:::
:::If there is arcing between pins on the rectifier socket, may have to replace the socket. The socket is probably made of a fibre type substance and may have a carbon track between the pins.
:::
:::Radiodoc
:::
:::the field coil..had some good hum to it so I added another 10 uf and it was better. took out that extra 10 uf and decided to try a 22 uf to ground and that was even better.....so heck I now have 42uf in there for test purposes only............I guess the real way to find out is test the amperage drawn on start up, if it doesnt go over the max then I would be good..........maybe.....lol......
::::::::According to these specs. the max is 32uf
::::::::http://www.radiomuseum.org/tubes/tube_80.html

:ok radio update.......I shoulda known......output transformer works...especially if I can hear it....so I dedcided to put an 8 ohm speaker across the secondary terminals and wham......sound, loud too so I need to rewind the coil or fix the wires to the secondary
:
:;AS far as the arcing, I think I may have stopped that....I was trying to get the volume control wirewould pot to work correctly and was adjusting the wiper contact inside.....well the wiper contact was touching the metal body of the pot in some parts and not the resistance wire like it should have.....well now it reads ok the whole wiper travel range.0 to about 10k......it used to read open at the higher end of the travel.......well it was reading open because it was being lifted by the body of the potentiometer...and I wonder if it was being affected by the on off switch on it...stray voltage? from line? anyway I cant get the 47 tube to arc now
:
:
::Be careful with tuner cleaner. Some of these products contain a lubricant, which leave a residue behind.
::
::
:::hi its not the rectifier thats arcing, its the 47 out put tube and it arced in a different spot after I cleaned it.........its arcing a 16 of an inch across to the socket rivet from the plate. the arc is in the air from the solder joint of the plate terminal to the rivet..............this is after I sprayed tuner cleaner over the other spot.......wish I could just hook the speaker up to something else
:::
:::::::well I reconed the speaker, not sure about the quality job I did but it works......the hum is not bad right now but I think thats due to the fact that I have not much volume anyway.......the most noticeable problem right now is the arcing between the filiment terminal and the plate terminal underneath the chassis........any thing like turning on a halogen light or connecting an antenna will make it arc.......it does this constantly when I turn on the halogen lamp I have about half way on the lamps dimmer switch.........so basically......the output section is overloaded maybe or something I dont know.....
:::::::
:::::::Sean,
:::::::
:::::::If your speaker has a hum bucking winding, try reversing it's leads and see if the hum is reduced.
:::::::
:::::::Radiodoc
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::::well this is the no name radio I have been working on.I just cut it out of the circuit..and replaced the caps with 2 10 micros before and after
::::Sean,
::::
::::If there is arcing between pins on the rectifier socket, may have to replace the socket. The socket is probably made of a fibre type substance and may have a carbon track between the pins.
::::
::::Radiodoc
::::
::::the field coil..had some good hum to it so I added another 10 uf and it was better. took out that extra 10 uf and decided to try a 22 uf to ground and that was even better.....so heck I now have 42uf in there for test purposes only............I guess the real way to find out is test the amperage drawn on start up, if it doesnt go over the max then I would be good..........maybe.....lol......
:::::::::According to these specs. the max is 32uf
:::::::::http://www.radiomuseum.org/tubes/tube_80.html

:HELLO, working on a generic radio........that had hum in it 4 volts of ac on the b+....so I dedided to try more capacitance....so either my caps are bad brand new or this radio needs more........I have 4 tubes 80 24 24 and a 47....so with 32 mfd it is not too bad and radio actually works now.....but when is it too much mfd, how can one tell when its too much......I dont understand why this radio wants this much but I dont have a schematic for it ........just have a cap in a retangular tall metal thin box. I would assume there are 2 or 3 caps in this can.....there were 4 wires coming out of it and one was black, two were soldered together and one I forget where It went
:Sean ,I am sure someone on this site has a better answer than this. but I 'll give you what I think anyhow. Check out the data sheets on franks's electron
tube site . Then look rca 220 schematic's here . They use the field coil as well as caps. Values there or on another set that doesn't use an inductor with an 80 might give you what you want.I am just waking up and not an expert.I am pretty sure someone here can give you straight info.I have'nt built a power supply in 20 years.The tube data sheets are good if you don't already have them .By trial and error Ithink once you put enough cap to reduce the ripple where you want it you probally ok . Load on a radio does not vary greatly is my GUESS.

:HELLO, working on a generic radio........that had hum in it 4 volts of ac on the b+....so I dedided to try more capacitance....so either my caps are bad brand new or this radio needs more........I have 4 tubes 80 24 24 and a 47....so with 32 mfd it is not too bad and radio actually works now.....but when is it too much mfd, how can one tell when its too much......I dont understand why this radio wants this much but I dont have a schematic for it ........just have a cap in a retangular tall metal thin box. I would assume there are 2 or 3 caps in this can.....there were 4 wires coming out of it and one was black, two were soldered together and one I forget where It went
:Sean ,I am sure someone on this site has a better answer than this. but I 'll give you what I think anyhow. Check out the data sheets on franks's electron
tube site . Then look rca 220 schematic's here . They use the field coil as well as caps. Values there or on another set that doesn't use an inductor with an 80 might give you what you want.I am just waking up and not an expert.I am pretty sure someone here can give you straight info.I have'nt built a power supply in 20 years.The tube data sheets are good if you don't already have them .By trial and error Ithink once you put enough cap to reduce the ripple where you want it you probally ok . Load on a radio does not vary greatly is my GUESS.