All,
I just wrapped up re-capping the old Stewart-Warner. It went pretty smooth; although the old ground connections did give my 25w iron a run for its money. Also, I must say that some of those old caps were WAY gone.
For pics:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/veedubrocco

Now all I have to do is figure out the dial face resto, replace the power cord, and double check all the connections, etc.

:All,
: I just wrapped up re-capping the old Stewart-Warner. It went pretty smooth; although the old ground connections did give my 25w iron a run for its money. Also, I must say that some of those old caps were WAY gone.
:For pics:
:http://www.flickr.com/photos/veedubrocco
:
:Now all I have to do is figure out the dial face resto, replace the power cord, and double check all the connections, etc.

Neat job.

Double check those domino caps. I've seen paper caps disguised as mica caps (one actually blew up in my face). A high value (.oox uf) is usually a good indication. Better safe than sorry.

Z-

Hrmm..I will do that. I just assumed that they were micas.
Unfortunately, the job isn't as neat as it looks, but for my first attempt, as long as the house doesn't burn down I'll be happy.

Do you happen to have the decode info for those caps ? I did order up all of the mica caps at the time; I have yet to check them though as I wanted to get all of the big lumps out of the way first. I still need to go back though and double check everything, etc.
For next time, any suggestions on how to work with the electrolytic can ? I kinda made a mess around it bypassing it.
:Neat job.
:
:Double check those domino caps. I've seen paper caps disguised as mica caps (one actually blew up in my face). A high value (.oox uf) is usually a good indication. Better safe than sorry.
:
:Z-

You don't need to replace them unless they're leaky. Test them with your meter and replace only if leaky. Purchase a Weller soldering gun for those chassis connections.

Thomas

:You don't need to replace them unless they're leaky. Test them with your meter and replace only if leaky. Purchase a Weller soldering gun for those chassis connections.
:
:Thomas
______________________________________________________________

Thomas, this method will not find many bad caps, they should be tested a operating voltage with a cap tester. If you test a cap at a couple of volts (which the meter supplies) it may test good but this is a poor test. Micamold made both mica and paper caps in the same configuration, amd most of the paper ones will be bad.

Dave

Probably not. You should probably use MY other idea that I suggested to everyone: testing the caps under operating voltage. If you don't have a cap tester that will test them under operating voltage, you can even build the power supply I described a while back.

Thomas

:Probably not. You should probably use MY other idea that I suggested to everyone: testing the caps under operating voltage. If you don't have a cap tester that will test them under operating voltage, you can even build the power supply I described a while back.
:
:Thomas

I have a rebranded Detrola 579 (AA5 octal) which had one of those paper caps from the dial lamp to the other side of the line. I checked it with a condeser checker, and less than 2uA leakage. I was listening to it, when the dial lamp began to brighten. As I reached for the switch, it became brilliant. When I put the cap back on the checker, it showed rising leakage in the tens of mA. I'm sure it was headed for dead short. I don't trust paper caps if they have any voltage on them. By actual measurement, 96.4% of the papers I've checked have been leaky.

:Do you happen to have the decode info for those caps ?

http://www.oldradioz.com/technical_info.htm

Look at Site-3 in the "reading values" section (top of page). This will link you here: http://www.tpub.com/neets/book2/3g.htm

I gave you the link to my page as there is a lot of info links in it. Saves you from searching on the web.

:For next time, any suggestions on how to work with the electrolytic can ? I kinda made a mess around it bypassing it.

I like to install terminal (lugs) strips 9look for item P-0301H at www.tubesandmore.com for a picture). You can either solder a ground lug to the chassis or use and existing screw. Makes for neat install of caps. These strips come in many shapes and lugs (I like the 6 + 1 ground strip when room permits, otherwise the 2 lugs + ground is fine).

I would definitely make sure the dominos are mica. Low values in the pf range almost assure you they are micas. I had one used as a bypass cap on the line (yes, original) and it blew up while testing the radio after a full (apparently not) recap. Kinda scary...

Z-

As for the dial face...since it is all embossed... perhapsyou can paint the whole thing black or whatever... then go get some gold foil signature paper at a local art supply store and lay it face down on the embossed ares and burnish the back with a wood stick. This should allow the gold to coat the top edges of the embossed areas.
These "Goldrite" signature strips let you write through bright gold transfer foil with pen or pencil.
Signature paper is made in small sheets that were meant to work a little like carbon paper. The artist places face down on the drawing he's done and writes his signature on the back.
Then peel up the signature paper and the signature is left there in gold.

(Goldrite dist by Martin F. Weber - No. 40984 Goldrite signature strips)
I don't know though if it is still available from them.
But maybe there is a similar gold type carbon paper that would work.

If it were me I'd scan the whole dial and recreate it in Photoshop or similar graphic manipulation program.
here's some I've recently done.

http://www.pbpix.com/radio/4dials.jpg

Peter

This is another type of gold leaf system
http://www.deltacrafts.com/Literature/Pdf/2005/Crafting/RenFoil.pdf

Peter,
Ah, I think you may be onto something here.....I am going to head to my local arts and crafts place and see what they have.
I also need to find a little rubber bushing for the tuning control. It is the item that the tuning thread rides on on the tuning shaft. I think that should be an easy re-creation thought.

Thanks to all,
Steve
:This is another type of gold leaf system
:http://www.deltacrafts.com/Literature/Pdf/2005/Crafting/RenFoil.pdf

Steve:
I was thinking about this more and I'm not sure if this would work but maybe you can try it.

First repaint the embossed dial in black or whatever...

then take a piece of absorbent cloth somewhat larger than the dial area. Stretch the cloth out over an old smoth borad like plywood or whtever and stretch it tight and tack it down in the corners so it lays smooth flat and tight.
Then get some gold paint and brush it on the cloth liberally and while its all still rather wet... invert the black embossed dial face down onto the wet painted cloth and press it evenly.
This may allow the embossed area to pick up the wet gold paint evenly on all embossed areas.
Try it...What do you think?

Peter,
Hrmm....This just might work too. Im going to have to take a really close look and see what I can come up with.

Thanks !
Steve

:Steve:
:I was thinking about this more and I'm not sure if this would work but maybe you can try it.
:
:First repaint the embossed dial in black or whatever...
:
:then take a piece of absorbent cloth somewhat larger than the dial area. Stretch the cloth out over an old smoth borad like plywood or whtever and stretch it tight and tack it down in the corners so it lays smooth flat and tight.
:Then get some gold paint and brush it on the cloth liberally and while its all still rather wet... invert the black embossed dial face down onto the wet painted cloth and press it evenly.
:This may allow the embossed area to pick up the wet gold paint evenly on all embossed areas.
:Try it...What do you think?
: