I'm pretty good with the electronics, but not so much with the cabinets.

I'm now looking at redoing the wood on an old Philco 38-3
floor model. The laquer is flaking and peeling. Most of the cabinet is in resonable shape in the front where it counts. There is some delamination of the moulding near the back.

The laquer on one side has flaked off down to the wood.
They must not have used stain, since the wood looks like it's natural color. The remaining laquer is much darker.
Is there such a thing as colorized laquer that was used ???

Anyone have suggestions on how to proceed?

:I'm pretty good with the electronics, but not so much with the cabinets.
:
:I'm now looking at redoing the wood on an old Philco 38-3
:floor model. The laquer is flaking and peeling. Most of the cabinet is in resonable shape in the front where it counts. There is some delamination of the moulding near the back.
:
:The laquer on one side has flaked off down to the wood.
:They must not have used stain, since the wood looks like it's natural color. The remaining laquer is much darker.
:Is there such a thing as colorized laquer that was used ???
:
:Anyone have suggestions on how to proceed?

Most radios of that vintage used toning laquers. Mohawk brand is available in several colors/shades. Try www.radiodaze.com or www.tubesandmore.com
Jon.

The forums at Antique Radio have a section on wood cabinet refinishing. May be of some help.

http://antiqueradios.com/forums/index.php

Rich

*************************

::I'm pretty good with the electronics, but not so much with the cabinets.
::
::I'm now looking at redoing the wood on an old Philco 38-3
::floor model. The laquer is flaking and peeling. Most of the cabinet is in resonable shape in the front where it counts. There is some delamination of the moulding near the back.
::
::The laquer on one side has flaked off down to the wood.
::They must not have used stain, since the wood looks like it's natural color. The remaining laquer is much darker.
::Is there such a thing as colorized laquer that was used ???
::
::Anyone have suggestions on how to proceed?
:
:Most radios of that vintage used toning laquers. Mohawk brand is available in several colors/shades. Try www.radiodaze.com or www.tubesandmore.com
:Jon.

Veneer can be glued down quite easily. Try not to get glue on the finishing surfaces. Use Elmer's wood or paper glue. Don't use Gorilla glue on veneer.

Use blocks of wood and C clamps to hold the veneer in place.

Thomas

Thomas,
I recommend the newer (liquid squeeze bottle) version of hide glue, and be sure to insert a sheet of wax paper between the veneer and the wood block. This glue can be brushed on, in order to cover all the area as well as allow the amount to be closely controlled. Otherwise, whatever glue seeps out of the joint will end up attaching the block to the veneer. Been there-done that!!!

marv

:Veneer can be glued down quite easily. Try not to get glue on the finishing surfaces. Use Elmer's wood or paper glue. Don't use Gorilla glue on veneer.
:
:Use blocks of wood and C clamps to hold the veneer in place.
:
:Thomas

Well, as far as veneering goes, that may work well. Don't use it for cabinet repairs, though. Hide glue is what manufacturers originally used. It is very weak, and has no resistance to water. Often it was applied hot (you take the dried substance and heat it). This made production extremely fast.

If you do use Elmer's for veneer, just apply it carefully with a brush. It, in my opinion, is much stronger than hide glue. I used it to repair my Crosley radio, which, to most people, was ready for the junk (which is exactly where some friends of mine found it). It's now strong and beautiful. Elmer's takes longer to dry, but it is very strong.

T.

:I'm pretty good with the electronics, but not so much with the cabinets.
:
:I'm now looking at redoing the wood on an old Philco 38-3
:floor model. The laquer is flaking and peeling. Most of the cabinet is in resonable shape in the front where it counts. There is some delamination of the moulding near the back.
:
:The laquer on one side has flaked off down to the wood.
:They must not have used stain, since the wood looks like it's natural color. The remaining laquer is much darker.
:Is there such a thing as colorized laquer that was used ???
:
:Anyone have suggestions on how to proceed?

Hi JIMM
I am restoring a Philco 38-7C console radio right now. It also is a blond colour which I think is really ugly. I used a yellow carpenter glue to glue down loose veneer which I find works well. I am not a purist when it comes to radios and so I am going to strip the varnish or lacquer completely with a cheap Canadian Tire brand liquid stripper then stain the set with a nice dark walnut stain which will look ten times better than the ugly blond!! I'll follow this with 3 coats of a gell varnish which is rubbed well into the wood then immediately wiped off with a soft lint free cloth. The beauty of the gell varnish is that you can't possibly go wrong in that you rub it on with a cloth and don't have to worry about runs or streaks!! Just wait 24 hours between coats to dry. I've use this method on numerous wooden table models and the sheen looks fantastic. I suppose you could use special varnishes and colour toners and sand between each coat of brushed on varnish but as I said; I'm not a purist but I do like the rich,dark stains and the subtle sheens of gell varnish which gives a beatiful hand rubbed look. Hope this gives you some ideas to work with.
Andy

Andy,
Although a wood hobbyist at heart, your post is good news for some of us (not so purists), as long as I get the desired results. I'm doing the sand/coat/sand/coat routine now on an RCA 67V1 radio/phono cabinet. It looks good going into the 3rd sanding/coat, but maybe less is more. I was torn between the hand rubbed/high gloss finish, but settled on the latter based on its original appearance. My next is a Philco 42-1008 radio/phono with more elaborate wood trim, so your input is helpful.

marv

::I'm pretty good with the electronics, but not so much with the cabinets.
::
::I'm now looking at redoing the wood on an old Philco 38-3
::floor model. The laquer is flaking and peeling. Most of the cabinet is in resonable shape in the front where it counts. There is some delamination of the moulding near the back.
::
::The laquer on one side has flaked off down to the wood.
::They must not have used stain, since the wood looks like it's natural color. The remaining laquer is much darker.
::Is there such a thing as colorized laquer that was used ???
::
::Anyone have suggestions on how to proceed?
:
:Hi JIMM
:I am restoring a Philco 38-7C console radio right now. It also is a blond colour which I think is really ugly. I used a yellow carpenter glue to glue down loose veneer which I find works well. I am not a purist when it comes to radios and so I am going to strip the varnish or lacquer completely with a cheap Canadian Tire brand liquid stripper then stain the set with a nice dark walnut stain which will look ten times better than the ugly blond!! I'll follow this with 3 coats of a gell varnish which is rubbed well into the wood then immediately wiped off with a soft lint free cloth. The beauty of the gell varnish is that you can't possibly go wrong in that you rub it on with a cloth and don't have to worry about runs or streaks!! Just wait 24 hours between coats to dry. I've use this method on numerous wooden table models and the sheen looks fantastic. I suppose you could use special varnishes and colour toners and sand between each coat of brushed on varnish but as I said; I'm not a purist but I do like the rich,dark stains and the subtle sheens of gell varnish which gives a beatiful hand rubbed look. Hope this gives you some ideas to work with.
:Andy

Andy,
I went to my local Lowes to get some gel varnish. They didn't have. What's the brand name? Talking about purist stuff. I know what you mean. I got some sorry looking replacement grille cloth on a philco. It's just to ugly. Ugly as the original. Too brown and doesn't do anything for the finish. I'm going to brighten it up when I get a chance.

Bill VA

::I'm pretty good with the electronics, but not so much with the cabinets.
::
::I'm now looking at redoing the wood on an old Philco 38-3
::floor model. The laquer is flaking and peeling. Most of the cabinet is in resonable shape in the front where it counts. There is some delamination of the moulding near the back.
::
::The laquer on one side has flaked off down to the wood.
::They must not have used stain, since the wood looks like it's natural color. The remaining laquer is much darker.
::Is there such a thing as colorized laquer that was used ???
::
::Anyone have suggestions on how to proceed?
:
:Hi JIMM
:I am restoring a Philco 38-7C console radio right now. It also is a blond colour which I think is really ugly. I used a yellow carpenter glue to glue down loose veneer which I find works well. I am not a purist when it comes to radios and so I am going to strip the varnish or lacquer completely with a cheap Canadian Tire brand liquid stripper then stain the set with a nice dark walnut stain which will look ten times better than the ugly blond!! I'll follow this with 3 coats of a gell varnish which is rubbed well into the wood then immediately wiped off with a soft lint free cloth. The beauty of the gell varnish is that you can't possibly go wrong in that you rub it on with a cloth and don't have to worry about runs or streaks!! Just wait 24 hours between coats to dry. I've use this method on numerous wooden table models and the sheen looks fantastic. I suppose you could use special varnishes and colour toners and sand between each coat of brushed on varnish but as I said; I'm not a purist but I do like the rich,dark stains and the subtle sheens of gell varnish which gives a beatiful hand rubbed look. Hope this gives you some ideas to work with.
:Andy

:Andy,
:I went to my local Lowes to get some gel varnish. They didn't have. What's the brand name? Talking about purist stuff. I know what you mean. I got some sorry looking replacement grille cloth on a philco. It's just to ugly. Ugly as the original. Too brown and doesn't do anything for the finish. I'm going to brighten it up when I get a chance.
:
:Bill VA

Hi Bill
Go to www.swingpaints.com/
At bottom of the page click on "welcome".This page has a "where to buy" which you can clck on, but first click on the menu on the left hand side under "oils, varnishes & polyurathanes". The second item "Circa 1850 Antique Paste Varnish" is the gell varnish. Click on the picture of the can & it gives you a write-up. This can be purchased in the U.S. from Jamestown Ditributors, Builders Depot, Hamilton Marine, and I think WalMart and Ace Hardware. I live in Canada and buy it at Home Depot.
Hope you can find it!!
Andy
:
:
:::I'm pretty good with the electronics, but not so much with the cabinets.
:::
:::I'm now looking at redoing the wood on an old Philco 38-3
:::floor model. The laquer is flaking and peeling. Most of the cabinet is in resonable shape in the front where it counts. There is some delamination of the moulding near the back.
:::
:::The laquer on one side has flaked off down to the wood.
:::They must not have used stain, since the wood looks like it's natural color. The remaining laquer is much darker.
:::Is there such a thing as colorized laquer that was used ???
:::
:::Anyone have suggestions on how to proceed?
::
::Hi JIMM
::I am restoring a Philco 38-7C console radio right now. It also is a blond colour which I think is really ugly. I used a yellow carpenter glue to glue down loose veneer which I find works well. I am not a purist when it comes to radios and so I am going to strip the varnish or lacquer completely with a cheap Canadian Tire brand liquid stripper then stain the set with a nice dark walnut stain which will look ten times better than the ugly blond!! I'll follow this with 3 coats of a gell varnish which is rubbed well into the wood then immediately wiped off with a soft lint free cloth. The beauty of the gell varnish is that you can't possibly go wrong in that you rub it on with a cloth and don't have to worry about runs or streaks!! Just wait 24 hours between coats to dry. I've use this method on numerous wooden table models and the sheen looks fantastic. I suppose you could use special varnishes and colour toners and sand between each coat of brushed on varnish but as I said; I'm not a purist but I do like the rich,dark stains and the subtle sheens of gell varnish which gives a beatiful hand rubbed look. Hope this gives you some ideas to work with.
::Andy