Home  Resources  References  Tubes  Forums  Links  Support 
chassis cleaning
10/12/2006 10:14:41 PMTerry
Hello all,
I am new to restoring radios. I thought a guy would be happy just to fix an old radio to get it working. Then I found out you need to do a recap. Now I am looking at some of the pictures of restored radios on the net and I cannot believe how new they look. Question is how do you do it. How do you clean the chassis and the shields around the tubes? How do you clean all the fins on the tuners? How do you get the tubes so clean. I hope this isn't a trade secret. I would really like to learn how so I can make my radios look as good as the ones shown on the net.
Thanks Terry
10/12/2006 10:42:38 PMMarv Nuce
Terry,
Patience, perserverance, a little hard work, a few household cleaning supplies, manual dexterity, some basic tools, basis electrical/mechanical knowledge, and most of all, the desire to bring these "Old Beauties" back to life in their glory of yesteryear. ENJOY!!!

marv

:Hello all,
:I am new to restoring radios. I thought a guy would be happy just to fix an old radio to get it working. Then I found out you need to do a recap. Now I am looking at some of the pictures of restored radios on the net and I cannot believe how new they look. Question is how do you do it. How do you clean the chassis and the shields around the tubes? How do you clean all the fins on the tuners? How do you get the tubes so clean. I hope this isn't a trade secret. I would really like to learn how so I can make my radios look as good as the ones shown on the net.
:Thanks Terry

10/13/2006 12:14:58 AMThomas Dermody
Peter can really get 'em clean. If you go to www.myvintagetv.com you'll see that his chassis are pretty clean, too. He uses a special acid that doesn't remove markings. If you aren't concerned with markings, use Brasso or Mothers aluminum polish. To do a really fine job, you must remove transformers and tube shield mounts, etc. This may require drilling out rivets. Be extremely careful if you do this. You may mar the surface of the chassis. New rivets can be found at your hardware store in both the open and closed varieties. Place the pre-formed side on top of the chassis, and peen over the underside with a small ball faced punch about the diameter of your pinky finger. If you don't feel like doing this, though, just remove the coils and damagable items. Polish well with a rag and get into all the crevices. If you plan on washing the chassis either before or both before and after the polishing process, let the sockets and cloth wiring and switches dry for several days. If you ever dare put the chassis in the oven, make sure that there are no meltable items. Turn the oven to warm, or 170 degrees and allow it to cycle only once. Turn it off after this and let the residual warmth dry the chassis. Still wait a day or so after this before operating the set. You can put it back together if you wish (transformers and coils).

Most chassis are nickel plated. Keep in mind that finger prints and such will tarnish in only months or a year. My RCA 55X2 still looks fabulous after all these years, and I only had to clean it (no polish). However, I also have to keep my fingers off of it. Rubber will also tarnish the chassis. If you wear gloves, use laytex. An easier solution, though, is to simply clean the chassis with alcohol once you're done working on it. This, in itself, may slightly tarnish the chassis, so wipe it away with a dry cloth before it can fully evaporate.

You can also polish brass shafts and items if you really want to go all out. A tooth brush and some Brasso can really make a rotary switch look fine, though you can only really get the silver plated contacts bright with a Q-tip soaked in Brasso. Buff out with a dry Q-tip. Then wash in hot soapy water. Rinse with hot water so that the item dries fast. This goes for all items you wash. Use really hot water for the rinse. Do not do this with glass items, and be careful with dials when using liquids. On rare occasion you'll come across a cheap one where all the numbers and figures will wash right off. Be gentle with dials and test in an inconspicuous place. Wash only as long as needed, and dry gently with a soft towel. A towel is necessary for removing water spots. Otherwise I'd recommend using a hair dryer on a cooler setting.

Thomas

10/13/2006 12:29:27 AMPeter Balazsy
Terry:
I'm a bit new at all this too. Started about a year ago.
I don't know how others do it all... but I do it by lots'o elbow grease!

1.) Asuming you have re-capped and tested everything and it tests fine. Then start clean up.

2.) Remove all the tube shields and tubes. (clean tubes windex)

3.) Remove all brackets holding dials etc.

4.) Make sure you can re-string the dial.. take a picture or draw the threading diagram.

5.) I use short bristle brushes to dust all surfaces.

6.) Vacuum entire bottom and top of chassis

7.) Remove ganged tuner assemble from the rubber mounting gromets and disconnect ground strap and wires. Make a sketch to be sure how wires go back.
Wash the entire ganged tuning condenser in hot soapy water and shake off water and let dry thoroughly.
(you may need new mounting gromets when replacing after cleaning chassis)... hardware store or mixed assortments on line.

8.) I use a small brass wire brush like fat tooth brushes. avaible on line or in hardware store cheap. Also same steel wire brushes and stiff hog's hair also.
Also I use emery cloth both open mesh and grit.

9.) if rusted or badly oxidized metal I scrape sand and wire brush entire surface in all nooks and crannies till the metal shines. Carefull not to break any wires near antenna coils

10.) After all metal is shiny wipe down and coat lightly w/wd40 or Boeing's "Boe-Shield" to keep away future rust.

11) Replace and re-wire ganged tuner.

12.) Sand or wire brush all other chassis brackes and Boeshield them and remount them.

13.) Replace tubes.. re-string dial... Test....

14.) Repair or redress the speaker. (I use the "wet look" speaker dressing.)

I can usually clean an entire chassis for an AA5 in one evening easily.

Here are afew of my last offerings up on Ebay to see my work.
Ebay #s
190040278430
190028421399
190020892507
Good luck

10/13/2006 12:52:37 AMPeter Balazsy
BY the way...
The Bakelite on this RCA 56x10
ebay#190040278430
was all brought back from dulls-ville with Brasso! and Elbow grease.
Rubbing compound may work well too. Haven't used it yet.Dupont #7 has both white-mild polishing compound.. and red-heavy rubbing compound.
There is some stuff called "Plastic polish #5" in a tube... made in England available on line that is supposed to be really really good for Bakelite too... but I haven't tried it yet.
After washing and getting initial crud off the Bakelite (I used Mr. Clean magic eraser).. then for shine..The Brasso sure worked great though for me.
10/13/2006 1:46:45 AMThomas Dermody
For greasy-grimy tuning condensers and/or chassis, you can also use mineral spirits or gasoline. Both may dissolve rubber and other items. Both may remove paint. Never get either on coils or transformers. After using such solvents, wash with hot soapy water in the conventional way. Keep away from flammables, and place rags/paper towels in the outside trash. If you plan on re-using rags, place them in a closed coffee can, prefferably on your porch.

Thomas

10/13/2006 3:59:28 PMTerry
Peter I don't know how you part with them. They are beautiful.Thanks for the help. Hope can make my AK model 53 look this good.
Terry
:BY the way...
:The Bakelite on this RCA 56x10
:ebay#190040278430
:was all brought back from dulls-ville with Brasso! and Elbow grease.
:Rubbing compound may work well too. Haven't used it yet.Dupont #7 has both white-mild polishing compound.. and red-heavy rubbing compound.
:There is some stuff called "Plastic polish #5" in a tube... made in England available on line that is supposed to be really really good for Bakelite too... but I haven't tried it yet.
:After washing and getting initial crud off the Bakelite (I used Mr. Clean magic eraser).. then for shine..The Brasso sure worked great though for me.
:
10/13/2006 4:00:34 PMTerry
Thanks for all the helpful tips.
Terry
:Hello all,
:I am new to restoring radios. I thought a guy would be happy just to fix an old radio to get it working. Then I found out you need to do a recap. Now I am looking at some of the pictures of restored radios on the net and I cannot believe how new they look. Question is how do you do it. How do you clean the chassis and the shields around the tubes? How do you clean all the fins on the tuners? How do you get the tubes so clean. I hope this isn't a trade secret. I would really like to learn how so I can make my radios look as good as the ones shown on the net.
:Thanks Terry
10/24/2006 8:31:16 PMGeorge
Terry, for the chassis cleaning hand cleaner, the kind used by auto places, is great, also a neat trick that I learned from an old ham radio operater, is take all the tubes out and put the radio in a dish washer and put it through the sanitizer cycle. When done, put in a warm oven for a half hour or so, and it will come out just like new. In order for this method to work, you have to make sure that the wire insulation is not plastic, most old radio wireing is cloth covered and won't be harmed by the water. I couldn't believe it when first told about this, but then I heard the same thing from several others, so I tried it on a old Aircraft radio, and it came out like new. Just make sure everything is dry, before fireing it up.
Regards: George
:Hello all,
:I am new to restoring radios. I thought a guy would be happy just to fix an old radio to get it working. Then I found out you need to do a recap. Now I am looking at some of the pictures of restored radios on the net and I cannot believe how new they look. Question is how do you do it. How do you clean the chassis and the shields around the tubes? How do you clean all the fins on the tuners? How do you get the tubes so clean. I hope this isn't a trade secret. I would really like to learn how so I can make my radios look as good as the ones shown on the net.
:Thanks Terry


© 1989-2025, Nostalgia Air