Weak Volume:
I recently aquired an Air Castle A2000 radio. The previous owner had cut a bunch of wires to the field coil, speaker and bucking coil. I rewired the speaker and coils per Nostalgia Air online schematic and got the radio working but it does not have the volume that it should. I recapped all paper capacitors with new ones of the correct value and checked all resistor values. I do have and external antenna hooked up. I did peak the Ifs and it selects many channels. I substituted the 6K6 output tube but no change (same low volume). I probed the output tube with an audio signal tracer and get very good volume. The 6SQ7Ggt tube is wired much differently than the schematic but it appears to have been built that way. Like I said the radio is very selective but does not produce the volume it should. Could there have been a production change of the wiring and it never made it to the schematic or is it correct and needs to be wired exactly this way?
I have substituted speaker, volume control, tone control, and tubes.
Keep in mind that I’m a layman and do not understand the principals of radio circuits.
Thank you in advance Mike

:Weak Volume:
:I recently aquired an Air Castle A2000 radio. The previous owner had cut a bunch of wires to the field coil, speaker and bucking coil. I rewired the speaker and coils per Nostalgia Air online schematic and got the radio working but it does not have the volume that it should. I recapped all paper capacitors with new ones of the correct value and checked all resistor values. I do have and external antenna hooked up. I did peak the Ifs and it selects many channels. I substituted the 6K6 output tube but no change (same low volume). I probed the output tube with an audio signal tracer and get very good volume. The 6SQ7Ggt tube is wired much differently than the schematic but it appears to have been built that way. Like I said the radio is very selective but does not produce the volume it should. Could there have been a production change of the wiring and it never made it to the schematic or is it correct and needs to be wired exactly this way?
:I have substituted speaker, volume control, tone control, and tubes.
:Keep in mind that I’m a layman and do not understand the principals of radio circuits.
:Thank you in advance Mike
:
Hi Mike,
I have looked at the schematic and a question just jumped out. Are you sure all the tubes are in the right socket. If the wiring to the 6SQ7GT doesn't look right, perhaps it is for the 6P7.

All the Best,

Bill

::Weak Volume:
::I recently aquired an Air Castle A2000 radio. The previous owner had cut a bunch of wires to the field coil, speaker and bucking coil. I rewired the speaker and coils per Nostalgia Air online schematic and got the radio working but it does not have the volume that it should. I recapped all paper capacitors with new ones of the correct value and checked all resistor values. I do have and external antenna hooked up. I did peak the Ifs and it selects many channels. I substituted the 6K6 output tube but no change (same low volume). I probed the output tube with an audio signal tracer and get very good volume. The 6SQ7Ggt tube is wired much differently than the schematic but it appears to have been built that way. Like I said the radio is very selective but does not produce the volume it should. Could there have been a production change of the wiring and it never made it to the schematic or is it correct and needs to be wired exactly this way?
::I have substituted speaker, volume control, tone control, and tubes.
::Keep in mind that I’m a layman and do not understand the principals of radio circuits.
::Thank you in advance Mike
::
:Hi Mike,
: I have looked at the schematic and a question just jumped out. Are you sure all the tubes are in the right socket. If the wiring to the 6SQ7GT doesn't look right, perhaps it is for the 6P7.
:
:All the Best,
:
:Bill

I checked the tubes and they are all in the right sockets. I did pull the 6P5 tube while the radio was playing and it had no effect on the audio output but did have an effect on the glow tube performance (tuning window closed shut). I notice the schematic showed 6P5 pin #5 going to the IF transformer. Would this cause a weak audio output if the tube was bad?
Thanks Mike

:::Weak Volume:
:::I recently aquired an Air Castle A2000 radio. The previous owner had cut a bunch of wires to the field coil, speaker and bucking coil. I rewired the speaker and coils per Nostalgia Air online schematic and got the radio working but it does not have the volume that it should. I recapped all paper capacitors with new ones of the correct value and checked all resistor values. I do have and external antenna hooked up. I did peak the Ifs and it selects many channels. I substituted the 6K6 output tube but no change (same low volume). I probed the output tube with an audio signal tracer and get very good volume. The 6SQ7Ggt tube is wired much differently than the schematic but it appears to have been built that way. Like I said the radio is very selective but does not produce the volume it should. Could there have been a production change of the wiring and it never made it to the schematic or is it correct and needs to be wired exactly this way?
:::I have substituted speaker, volume control, tone control, and tubes.
:::Keep in mind that I’m a layman and do not understand the principals of radio circuits.
:::Thank you in advance Mike
:::
::Hi Mike,
:: I have looked at the schematic and a question just jumped out. Are you sure all the tubes are in the right socket. If the wiring to the 6SQ7GT doesn't look right, perhaps it is for the 6P7.
::
::All the Best,
::
::Bill
:
:I checked the tubes and they are all in the right sockets. I did pull the 6P5 tube while the radio was playing and it had no effect on the audio output but did have an effect on the glow tube performance (tuning window closed shut). I notice the schematic showed 6P5 pin #5 going to the IF transformer. Would this cause a weak audio output if the tube was bad?
:Thanks Mike

Hi Mike,
The 6P5GT is only used to run the tuning eye. Both the tunig eye and hte 6P5GT could be removed without an effect on volume.
You mentioned that the 6SQ7GT is wired differently than the schematic shows. Could you elaborate? How is it different.
By the way, this looks like a very interesting radio. I have not seen the tuning indicator done this way before. Ususally this type of set will have a 6U5 eye, which has both the functions of the 6P5GT and 6AF6G.

Best Regards,

Bill

::::Weak Volume:
::::I recently aquired an Air Castle A2000 radio. The previous owner had cut a bunch of wires to the field coil, speaker and bucking coil. I rewired the speaker and coils per Nostalgia Air online schematic and got the radio working but it does not have the volume that it should. I recapped all paper capacitors with new ones of the correct value and checked all resistor values. I do have and external antenna hooked up. I did peak the Ifs and it selects many channels. I substituted the 6K6 output tube but no change (same low volume). I probed the output tube with an audio signal tracer and get very good volume. The 6SQ7Ggt tube is wired much differently than the schematic but it appears to have been built that way. Like I said the radio is very selective but does not produce the volume it should. Could there have been a production change of the wiring and it never made it to the schematic or is it correct and needs to be wired exactly this way?
::::I have substituted speaker, volume control, tone control, and tubes.
::::Keep in mind that I’m a layman and do not understand the principals of radio circuits.
::::Thank you in advance Mike
::::
:::Hi Mike,
::: I have looked at the schematic and a question just jumped out. Are you sure all the tubes are in the right socket. If the wiring to the 6SQ7GT doesn't look right, perhaps it is for the 6P7.
:::
:::All the Best,
:::
:::Bill
::
::I checked the tubes and they are all in the right sockets. I did pull the 6P5 tube while the radio was playing and it had no effect on the audio output but did have an effect on the glow tube performance (tuning window closed shut). I notice the schematic showed 6P5 pin #5 going to the IF transformer. Would this cause a weak audio output if the tube was bad?
::Thanks Mike
:
:Hi Mike,
: The 6P5GT is only used to run the tuning eye. Both the tunig eye and hte 6P5GT could be removed without an effect on volume.
: You mentioned that the 6SQ7GT is wired differently than the schematic shows. Could you elaborate? How is it different.
: By the way, this looks like a very interesting radio. I have not seen the tuning indicator done this way before. Ususally this type of set will have a 6U5 eye, which has both the functions of the 6P5GT and 6AF6G.
:
:Best Regards,
:
:Bill

PS. One thing to look at is the field winding. These can short and cause low magnetic field in the speaker, then low volume, common problem in vintage juke boxes. The check is to wire in a permanent magnet (PM) speaker instead of the one that is there. If you get good volume from the PM speaker you have found the problem.

::::Weak Volume:
::::I recently aquired an Air Castle A2000 radio. The previous owner had cut a bunch of wires to the field coil, speaker and bucking coil. I rewired the speaker and coils per Nostalgia Air online schematic and got the radio working but it does not have the volume that it should. I recapped all paper capacitors with new ones of the correct value and checked all resistor values. I do have and external antenna hooked up. I did peak the Ifs and it selects many channels. I substituted the 6K6 output tube but no change (same low volume). I probed the output tube with an audio signal tracer and get very good volume. The 6SQ7Ggt tube is wired much differently than the schematic but it appears to have been built that way. Like I said the radio is very selective but does not produce the volume it should. Could there have been a production change of the wiring and it never made it to the schematic or is it correct and needs to be wired exactly this way?
::::I have substituted speaker, volume control, tone control, and tubes.
::::Keep in mind that I’m a layman and do not understand the principals of radio circuits.
::::Thank you in advance Mike
::::
:::Hi Mike,
::: I have looked at the schematic and a question just jumped out. Are you sure all the tubes are in the right socket. If the wiring to the 6SQ7GT doesn't look right, perhaps it is for the 6P7.
:::
:::All the Best,
:::
:::Bill
::
::I checked the tubes and they are all in the right sockets. I did pull the 6P5 tube while the radio was playing and it had no effect on the audio output but did have an effect on the glow tube performance (tuning window closed shut). I notice the schematic showed 6P5 pin #5 going to the IF transformer. Would this cause a weak audio output if the tube was bad?
::Thanks Mike
:
:Hi Mike,
: The 6P5GT is only used to run the tuning eye. Both the tunig eye and hte 6P5GT could be removed without an effect on volume.
: You mentioned that the 6SQ7GT is wired differently than the schematic shows. Could you elaborate? How is it different.
: By the way, this looks like a very interesting radio. I have not seen the tuning indicator done this way before. Ususally this type of set will have a 6U5 eye, which has both the functions of the 6P5GT and 6AF6G.
:
:Best Regards,
:
:Bill

Yes I have hooked up a PM speaker but with no change. Ohm readings on the field & bucking coil closely match schematic values.

The list below shows the 6SQ7 is hooked up in the following manner:
L7 (IF) is connected to pin 5 (schematic shows L7 to pin 4)
C15 (250mmf) from L7 is hooked to pin 4. (sch. shows from C15 to pin 3)
R4 (4.7m) is connected from pin 2 to pin 3 and strung thru pin 4 also.
C14 (250mmf) from Pin 6 to pin 3. (sch. shows from pin 6 to grd.)
All the other pin hookups of 6SQ7 are per schematic. (C13, Grds. Filament)
I rewired the radio to the schmetic and it played but not as well (muffled) as before so I wired it back the way it was. I ran a jumper wire from pin 3 (6SQ7) to grd. while the radio was playing and the audio picked up quite a bit (big difference) but still not where it should be.
Thanks Mike

:::::Weak Volume:
:::::I recently aquired an Air Castle A2000 radio. The previous owner had cut a bunch of wires to the field coil, speaker and bucking coil. I rewired the speaker and coils per Nostalgia Air online schematic and got the radio working but it does not have the volume that it should. I recapped all paper capacitors with new ones of the correct value and checked all resistor values. I do have and external antenna hooked up. I did peak the Ifs and it selects many channels. I substituted the 6K6 output tube but no change (same low volume). I probed the output tube with an audio signal tracer and get very good volume. The 6SQ7Ggt tube is wired much differently than the schematic but it appears to have been built that way. Like I said the radio is very selective but does not produce the volume it should. Could there have been a production change of the wiring and it never made it to the schematic or is it correct and needs to be wired exactly this way?
:::::I have substituted speaker, volume control, tone control, and tubes.
:::::Keep in mind that I’m a layman and do not understand the principals of radio circuits.
:::::Thank you in advance Mike
:::::
::::Hi Mike,
:::: I have looked at the schematic and a question just jumped out. Are you sure all the tubes are in the right socket. If the wiring to the 6SQ7GT doesn't look right, perhaps it is for the 6P7.
::::
::::All the Best,
::::
::::Bill
:::
:::I checked the tubes and they are all in the right sockets. I did pull the 6P5 tube while the radio was playing and it had no effect on the audio output but did have an effect on the glow tube performance (tuning window closed shut). I notice the schematic showed 6P5 pin #5 going to the IF transformer. Would this cause a weak audio output if the tube was bad?
:::Thanks Mike
::
::Hi Mike,
:: The 6P5GT is only used to run the tuning eye. Both the tunig eye and hte 6P5GT could be removed without an effect on volume.
:: You mentioned that the 6SQ7GT is wired differently than the schematic shows. Could you elaborate? How is it different.
:: By the way, this looks like a very interesting radio. I have not seen the tuning indicator done this way before. Ususally this type of set will have a 6U5 eye, which has both the functions of the 6P5GT and 6AF6G.
::
::Best Regards,
::
::Bill
:
:Yes I have hooked up a PM speaker but with no change. Ohm readings on the field & bucking coil closely match schematic values.
:
:The list below shows the 6SQ7 is hooked up in the following manner:
:L7 (IF) is connected to pin 5 (schematic shows L7 to pin 4) BG -> OK
:C15 (250mmf) from L7 is hooked to pin 4. (sch. shows from C15 to pin 3) BG -> Very odd, It is also odd that you get ANY audio.
:R4 (4.7m) is connected from pin 2 to pin 3 and strung thru pin 4 also. BG -> R4 looks good, but strung through pin 4 is very odd. I expect you thought so, also.
:C14 (250mmf) from Pin 6 to pin 3. (sch. shows from pin 6 to grd.) BG -> Seems like a reasonable variation.
:All the other pin hookups of 6SQ7 are per schematic. (C13, Grds. Filament)
:I rewired the radio to the schmetic and it played but not as well (muffled) as before so I wired it back the way it was. I ran a jumper wire from pin 3 (6SQ7) to grd. while the radio was playing and the audio picked up quite a bit (big difference) but still not where it should be.
:Thanks Mike
:
Hi Mike,
See my comments on the 6SQ7 above.

I have looked through my set of pin diagrams and do not see any tube that would resonable fit the pin out you described.
The most odd connection is to pin 4. The 6SQ7GT's diode on pin 4 would shunt much of the audio. I recommend that you disconnect all wiring to pin 4, but keep all the wires that had been on pin 4 connected. (Alternatively you could cut off pin 4.) Try that, it should give you better audio. It is a lot less work than rewiring the whole socket, too.

Best Regards,

Bill G.

::::::Weak Volume:
::::::I recently aquired an Air Castle A2000 radio. The previous owner had cut a bunch of wires to the field coil, speaker and bucking coil. I rewired the speaker and coils per Nostalgia Air online schematic and got the radio working but it does not have the volume that it should. I recapped all paper capacitors with new ones of the correct value and checked all resistor values. I do have and external antenna hooked up. I did peak the Ifs and it selects many channels. I substituted the 6K6 output tube but no change (same low volume). I probed the output tube with an audio signal tracer and get very good volume. The 6SQ7Ggt tube is wired much differently than the schematic but it appears to have been built that way. Like I said the radio is very selective but does not produce the volume it should. Could there have been a production change of the wiring and it never made it to the schematic or is it correct and needs to be wired exactly this way?
::::::I have substituted speaker, volume control, tone control, and tubes.
::::::Keep in mind that I’m a layman and do not understand the principals of radio circuits.
::::::Thank you in advance Mike
::::::
:::::Hi Mike,
::::: I have looked at the schematic and a question just jumped out. Are you sure all the tubes are in the right socket. If the wiring to the 6SQ7GT doesn't look right, perhaps it is for the 6P7.
:::::
:::::All the Best,
:::::
:::::Bill
::::
::::I checked the tubes and they are all in the right sockets. I did pull the 6P5 tube while the radio was playing and it had no effect on the audio output but did have an effect on the glow tube performance (tuning window closed shut). I notice the schematic showed 6P5 pin #5 going to the IF transformer. Would this cause a weak audio output if the tube was bad?
::::Thanks Mike
:::
:::Hi Mike,
::: The 6P5GT is only used to run the tuning eye. Both the tunig eye and hte 6P5GT could be removed without an effect on volume.
::: You mentioned that the 6SQ7GT is wired differently than the schematic shows. Could you elaborate? How is it different.
::: By the way, this looks like a very interesting radio. I have not seen the tuning indicator done this way before. Ususally this type of set will have a 6U5 eye, which has both the functions of the 6P5GT and 6AF6G.
:::
:::Best Regards,
:::
:::Bill
::
::Yes I have hooked up a PM speaker but with no change. Ohm readings on the field & bucking coil closely match schematic values.
::
::The list below shows the 6SQ7 is hooked up in the following manner:
::L7 (IF) is connected to pin 5 (schematic shows L7 to pin 4) BG -> OK
::C15 (250mmf) from L7 is hooked to pin 4. (sch. shows from C15 to pin 3) BG -> Very odd, It is also odd that you get ANY audio.
::R4 (4.7m) is connected from pin 2 to pin 3 and strung thru pin 4 also. BG -> R4 looks good, but strung through pin 4 is very odd. I expect you thought so, also.
::C14 (250mmf) from Pin 6 to pin 3. (sch. shows from pin 6 to grd.) BG -> Seems like a reasonable variation.
::All the other pin hookups of 6SQ7 are per schematic. (C13, Grds. Filament)
::I rewired the radio to the schmetic and it played but not as well (muffled) as before so I wired it back the way it was. I ran a jumper wire from pin 3 (6SQ7) to grd. while the radio was playing and the audio picked up quite a bit (big difference) but still not where it should be.
::Thanks Mike
::
:Hi Mike,
: See my comments on the 6SQ7 above.
:
: I have looked through my set of pin diagrams and do not see any tube that would resonable fit the pin out you described.
: The most odd connection is to pin 4. The 6SQ7GT's diode on pin 4 would shunt much of the audio. I recommend that you disconnect all wiring to pin 4, but keep all the wires that had been on pin 4 connected. (Alternatively you could cut off pin 4.) Try that, it should give you better audio. It is a lot less work than rewiring the whole socket, too.
:
:Best Regards,
:
:Bill G.

I cut off pin #4 to 6SQ7 but it made no difference (still picked up volume when I grounded pin #4 hook-ups) I believe I have a wiring issue somewhere else in the circuits I just need to study the schematic more to find it. The radio was dead when I acquired it so some progress has been made. I really appreciate the help you have given me Bill.
Thanks Mike

:::::::Weak Volume:
:::::::I recently aquired an Air Castle A2000 radio. The previous owner had cut a bunch of wires to the field coil, speaker and bucking coil. I rewired the speaker and coils per Nostalgia Air online schematic and got the radio working but it does not have the volume that it should. I recapped all paper capacitors with new ones of the correct value and checked all resistor values. I do have and external antenna hooked up. I did peak the Ifs and it selects many channels. I substituted the 6K6 output tube but no change (same low volume). I probed the output tube with an audio signal tracer and get very good volume. The 6SQ7Ggt tube is wired much differently than the schematic but it appears to have been built that way. Like I said the radio is very selective but does not produce the volume it should. Could there have been a production change of the wiring and it never made it to the schematic or is it correct and needs to be wired exactly this way?
:::::::I have substituted speaker, volume control, tone control, and tubes.
:::::::Keep in mind that I’m a layman and do not understand the principals of radio circuits.
:::::::Thank you in advance Mike
:::::::
::::::Hi Mike,
:::::: I have looked at the schematic and a question just jumped out. Are you sure all the tubes are in the right socket. If the wiring to the 6SQ7GT doesn't look right, perhaps it is for the 6P7.
::::::
::::::All the Best,
::::::
::::::Bill
:::::
:::::I checked the tubes and they are all in the right sockets. I did pull the 6P5 tube while the radio was playing and it had no effect on the audio output but did have an effect on the glow tube performance (tuning window closed shut). I notice the schematic showed 6P5 pin #5 going to the IF transformer. Would this cause a weak audio output if the tube was bad?
:::::Thanks Mike
::::
::::Hi Mike,
:::: The 6P5GT is only used to run the tuning eye. Both the tunig eye and hte 6P5GT could be removed without an effect on volume.
:::: You mentioned that the 6SQ7GT is wired differently than the schematic shows. Could you elaborate? How is it different.
:::: By the way, this looks like a very interesting radio. I have not seen the tuning indicator done this way before. Ususally this type of set will have a 6U5 eye, which has both the functions of the 6P5GT and 6AF6G.
::::
::::Best Regards,
::::
::::Bill
:::
:::Yes I have hooked up a PM speaker but with no change. Ohm readings on the field & bucking coil closely match schematic values.
:::
:::The list below shows the 6SQ7 is hooked up in the following manner:
:::L7 (IF) is connected to pin 5 (schematic shows L7 to pin 4) BG -> OK
:::C15 (250mmf) from L7 is hooked to pin 4. (sch. shows from C15 to pin 3) BG -> Very odd, It is also odd that you get ANY audio.
:::R4 (4.7m) is connected from pin 2 to pin 3 and strung thru pin 4 also. BG -> R4 looks good, but strung through pin 4 is very odd. I expect you thought so, also.
:::C14 (250mmf) from Pin 6 to pin 3. (sch. shows from pin 6 to grd.) BG -> Seems like a reasonable variation.
:::All the other pin hookups of 6SQ7 are per schematic. (C13, Grds. Filament)
:::I rewired the radio to the schmetic and it played but not as well (muffled) as before so I wired it back the way it was. I ran a jumper wire from pin 3 (6SQ7) to grd. while the radio was playing and the audio picked up quite a bit (big difference) but still not where it should be.
:::Thanks Mike
:::
::Hi Mike,
:: See my comments on the 6SQ7 above.
::
:: I have looked through my set of pin diagrams and do not see any tube that would resonable fit the pin out you described.
:: The most odd connection is to pin 4. The 6SQ7GT's diode on pin 4 would shunt much of the audio. I recommend that you disconnect all wiring to pin 4, but keep all the wires that had been on pin 4 connected. (Alternatively you could cut off pin 4.) Try that, it should give you better audio. It is a lot less work than rewiring the whole socket, too.
::
::Best Regards,
::
::Bill G.
:
:I cut off pin #4 to 6SQ7 but it made no difference (still picked up volume when I grounded pin #4 hook-ups) I believe I have a wiring issue somewhere else in the circuits I just need to study the schematic more to find it. The radio was dead when I acquired it so some progress has been made. I really appreciate the help you have given me Bill.
:Thanks Mike
:

Guys,

Looking at the schematic it seems pin 3 of the 6SQ7 connects to the center tap of the power transformer. I would think pin 3 then could be considered connected to ground or common B minus, albeit minus 3 volts above chassis via R6, a 150 ohm resistor. It would seem any leads connected to pin 3 could be considered grounded as well as any pins directly connected to pin 3.

Radiodoc

::::The list below shows the 6SQ7 is hooked up in the following manner:
::::L7 (IF) is connected to pin 5 (schematic shows L7 to pin 4) BG -> OK
::::C15 (250mmf) from L7 is hooked to pin 4. (sch. shows from C15 to pin 3) BG -> Very odd, It is also odd that you get ANY audio.
::::R4 (4.7m) is connected from pin 2 to pin 3 and strung thru pin 4 also. BG -> R4 looks good, but strung through pin 4 is very odd. I expect you thought so, also.
::::C14 (250mmf) from Pin 6 to pin 3. (sch. shows from pin 6 to grd.) BG -> Seems like a reasonable variation.
::::All the other pin hookups of 6SQ7 are per schematic. (C13, Grds. Filament)

The way your socket is wired in the radio is just as good as the way it is wired in the schematic.

The top of the IF secondary is wired to pin 5 in your radio....which is the same as pin 4 (both are detector plates, that collect electrons from the same cathode). C15 is connected to pin 4...seems odd, because it should go to pin 3....however, later you find that R4 goes from 2 to 3 and then to 4. Well, it's supposed to go from the grid to some point at the same potential as the cathode....the cathode, pin 3, is connected to the center tap of the transformer, so R4 can connect to pin 3 or to any other wire that leads to the center tap of the power transformer. Also, the continuation from pin 3 to pin 4 grounds the detector plate which is connected to pin 4. Note how in the schematic, pin 5 is grounded to the chassis. Well, in your radio, pin 5 is being used, so then you ground pin 4. It doesn't have to connect to the chassis...just some solid B- point. The center tap of the power transformer is at the same potential as the cathode of the 6SQ7, and this works fine. Actually, the chassis is positive with respect to the cathode of the 6SQ7. Connecting the detector plate here would actually cause it to conduct, which isn't necessary.

If you wanted to, you could clip the lead that jumps pin 4 to pin 3. Then connect pin 4 to pin 5. The two will give you slightly louder audio than one would.

Check your 6SQ7 tube for proper emissions. Often these tubes will work perfectly in this kind of circuit even when they test as "REPLACE," but it is wise to test and check with a new tube, anyway.

Again, the way your socket was wired from the factory is just fine. Check to be absolutely sure that you replaced all old condensers with new ones of the proper value. Replacing the .02 MFD unit with a .002 MFD unit won't affect the audio much, and the same goes with the .05 MFD unit. It will cut out a lot of the bass. However, if you put in values that are any smaller, the audio will suffer significantly. Did you do anything with the volume control? Does it work properly? Disconnect all wires going to it and measure its resistance from the center terminal to each end terminal. Operate the control and see to it that the resistance goes down to at least 100 ohms in each direction (zero ohms is optimum, and in some radios, a resistance as high as a few thousand ohms is possible...this is where a tone muting resistance was built into the control, though it may also be a fault). If you find that the control doesn't go to a really low resistance between the center terminal and the high terminal when the control is turned completely clockwise, try shunting across the two terminals with the control in the radio and the radio operating. If the volume jumps up much higher, then you know that your control is probably at fault. Replace with a similar resistance control. Using smaller resistances will severely attenuate the audio.

Make sure, too, that all screen grid connections to the RF tubes are good, and that all condensers on these connections are of the proper values. If screen grid resistors, connections, or condensers are bad, the RF tubes won't amplify properly. The screen grid, by the way, is the second grid in the IF and RF amp. tubes (pin 6), and the second and fourth grids (pin 4) in the 6SA7 tube, though if these grids aren't functioning properly, you probably won't get any signal. Make sure that you are connecting a long antenna wire to the antenna terminal. This radio won't function properly without one. The wire must run in one direction. It cannot fold back upon itself. Folding back causes signal inversion and cancellation.

:::::The list below shows the 6SQ7 is hooked up in the following manner:
:::::L7 (IF) is connected to pin 5 (schematic shows L7 to pin 4) BG -> OK
:::::C15 (250mmf) from L7 is hooked to pin 4. (sch. shows from C15 to pin 3) BG -> Very odd, It is also odd that you get ANY audio.
:::::R4 (4.7m) is connected from pin 2 to pin 3 and strung thru pin 4 also. BG -> R4 looks good, but strung through pin 4 is very odd. I expect you thought so, also.
:::::C14 (250mmf) from Pin 6 to pin 3. (sch. shows from pin 6 to grd.) BG -> Seems like a reasonable variation.
:::::All the other pin hookups of 6SQ7 are per schematic. (C13, Grds. Filament)
:
:
:The way your socket is wired in the radio is just as good as the way it is wired in the schematic.
:
:The top of the IF secondary is wired to pin 5 in your radio....which is the same as pin 4 (both are detector plates, that collect electrons from the same cathode). C15 is connected to pin 4...seems odd, because it should go to pin 3....however, later you find that R4 goes from 2 to 3 and then to 4. Well, it's supposed to go from the grid to some point at the same potential as the cathode....the cathode, pin 3, is connected to the center tap of the transformer, so R4 can connect to pin 3 or to any other wire that leads to the center tap of the power transformer. Also, the continuation from pin 3 to pin 4 grounds the detector plate which is connected to pin 4. Note how in the schematic, pin 5 is grounded to the chassis. Well, in your radio, pin 5 is being used, so then you ground pin 4. It doesn't have to connect to the chassis...just some solid B- point. The center tap of the power transformer is at the same potential as the cathode of the 6SQ7, and this works fine. Actually, the chassis is positive with respect to the cathode of the 6SQ7. Connecting the detector plate here would actually cause it to conduct, which isn't necessary.
:
:If you wanted to, you could clip the lead that jumps pin 4 to pin 3. Then connect pin 4 to pin 5. The two will give you slightly louder audio than one would.
:
:Check your 6SQ7 tube for proper emissions. Often these tubes will work perfectly in this kind of circuit even when they test as "REPLACE," but it is wise to test and check with a new tube, anyway.
:
:Again, the way your socket was wired from the factory is just fine. Check to be absolutely sure that you replaced all old condensers with new ones of the proper value. Replacing the .02 MFD unit with a .002 MFD unit won't affect the audio much, and the same goes with the .05 MFD unit. It will cut out a lot of the bass. However, if you put in values that are any smaller, the audio will suffer significantly. Did you do anything with the volume control? Does it work properly? Disconnect all wires going to it and measure its resistance from the center terminal to each end terminal. Operate the control and see to it that the resistance goes down to at least 100 ohms in each direction (zero ohms is optimum, and in some radios, a resistance as high as a few thousand ohms is possible...this is where a tone muting resistance was built into the control, though it may also be a fault). If you find that the control doesn't go to a really low resistance between the center terminal and the high terminal when the control is turned completely clockwise, try shunting across the two terminals with the control in the radio and the radio operating. If the volume jumps up much higher, then you know that your control is probably at fault. Replace with a similar resistance control. Using smaller resistances will severely attenuate the audio.
:
:Make sure, too, that all screen grid connections to the RF tubes are good, and that all condensers on these connections are of the proper values. If screen grid resistors, connections, or condensers are bad, the RF tubes won't amplify properly. The screen grid, by the way, is the second grid in the IF and RF amp. tubes (pin 6), and the second and fourth grids (pin 4) in the 6SA7 tube, though if these grids aren't functioning properly, you probably won't get any signal. Make sure that you are connecting a long antenna wire to the antenna terminal. This radio won't function properly without one. The wire must run in one direction. It cannot fold back upon itself. Folding back causes signal inversion and cancellation.
:
:

I hooked up a speaker and matching output transformer from a Montgomery Ward 64BR-1514A that I had laying around for parts and the radio started working great. I’m not sure of the match but it now has much more volume and clarity. I also tweaked the IFs which helped even more. Previously I jumped a PM speaker to it but it did not pick up the volume so I ruled it out as a problem (must have done it wrong). The problem was in the speaker itself because the output transformer attached to it and the bucking coil ohm’d out good. The Air Castle speaker has only one small tear but looks like the whole cone has been covered with a glue or something. When I hooked up the Montgomery Ward speaker I tapped into the bucking coil of the Air Castle to get it to work. If I use the Ward speaker which just has only an output transformer can I use something in the bucking coils place? Would I be better off hooking up a PM Speaker?

Mike
Thanks for every ones help on this one it has been a great learning experience for me.

::::::The list below shows the 6SQ7 is hooked up in the following manner:
::::::L7 (IF) is connected to pin 5 (schematic shows L7 to pin 4) BG -> OK
::::::C15 (250mmf) from L7 is hooked to pin 4. (sch. shows from C15 to pin 3) BG -> Very odd, It is also odd that you get ANY audio.
::::::R4 (4.7m) is connected from pin 2 to pin 3 and strung thru pin 4 also. BG -> R4 looks good, but strung through pin 4 is very odd. I expect you thought so, also.
::::::C14 (250mmf) from Pin 6 to pin 3. (sch. shows from pin 6 to grd.) BG -> Seems like a reasonable variation.
::::::All the other pin hookups of 6SQ7 are per schematic. (C13, Grds. Filament)
::
::
::The way your socket is wired in the radio is just as good as the way it is wired in the schematic.
::
::The top of the IF secondary is wired to pin 5 in your radio....which is the same as pin 4 (both are detector plates, that collect electrons from the same cathode). C15 is connected to pin 4...seems odd, because it should go to pin 3....however, later you find that R4 goes from 2 to 3 and then to 4. Well, it's supposed to go from the grid to some point at the same potential as the cathode....the cathode, pin 3, is connected to the center tap of the transformer, so R4 can connect to pin 3 or to any other wire that leads to the center tap of the power transformer. Also, the continuation from pin 3 to pin 4 grounds the detector plate which is connected to pin 4. Note how in the schematic, pin 5 is grounded to the chassis. Well, in your radio, pin 5 is being used, so then you ground pin 4. It doesn't have to connect to the chassis...just some solid B- point. The center tap of the power transformer is at the same potential as the cathode of the 6SQ7, and this works fine. Actually, the chassis is positive with respect to the cathode of the 6SQ7. Connecting the detector plate here would actually cause it to conduct, which isn't necessary.
::
::If you wanted to, you could clip the lead that jumps pin 4 to pin 3. Then connect pin 4 to pin 5. The two will give you slightly louder audio than one would.
::
::Check your 6SQ7 tube for proper emissions. Often these tubes will work perfectly in this kind of circuit even when they test as "REPLACE," but it is wise to test and check with a new tube, anyway.
::
::Again, the way your socket was wired from the factory is just fine. Check to be absolutely sure that you replaced all old condensers with new ones of the proper value. Replacing the .02 MFD unit with a .002 MFD unit won't affect the audio much, and the same goes with the .05 MFD unit. It will cut out a lot of the bass. However, if you put in values that are any smaller, the audio will suffer significantly. Did you do anything with the volume control? Does it work properly? Disconnect all wires going to it and measure its resistance from the center terminal to each end terminal. Operate the control and see to it that the resistance goes down to at least 100 ohms in each direction (zero ohms is optimum, and in some radios, a resistance as high as a few thousand ohms is possible...this is where a tone muting resistance was built into the control, though it may also be a fault). If you find that the control doesn't go to a really low resistance between the center terminal and the high terminal when the control is turned completely clockwise, try shunting across the two terminals with the control in the radio and the radio operating. If the volume jumps up much higher, then you know that your control is probably at fault. Replace with a similar resistance control. Using smaller resistances will severely attenuate the audio.
::
::Make sure, too, that all screen grid connections to the RF tubes are good, and that all condensers on these connections are of the proper values. If screen grid resistors, connections, or condensers are bad, the RF tubes won't amplify properly. The screen grid, by the way, is the second grid in the IF and RF amp. tubes (pin 6), and the second and fourth grids (pin 4) in the 6SA7 tube, though if these grids aren't functioning properly, you probably won't get any signal. Make sure that you are connecting a long antenna wire to the antenna terminal. This radio won't function properly without one. The wire must run in one direction. It cannot fold back upon itself. Folding back causes signal inversion and cancellation.
::
::
:
:I hooked up a speaker and matching output transformer from a Montgomery Ward 64BR-1514A that I had laying around for parts and the radio started working great. I’m not sure of the match but it now has much more volume and clarity. I also tweaked the IFs which helped even more. Previously I jumped a PM speaker to it but it did not pick up the volume so I ruled it out as a problem (must have done it wrong). The problem was in the speaker itself because the output transformer attached to it and the bucking coil ohm’d out good. The Air Castle speaker has only one small tear but looks like the whole cone has been covered with a glue or something. When I hooked up the Montgomery Ward speaker I tapped into the bucking coil of the Air Castle to get it to work. If I use the Ward speaker which just has only an output transformer can I use something in the bucking coils place? Would I be better off hooking up a PM Speaker?
:
:Mike
:Thanks for every ones help on this one it has been a great learning experience for me.
:
Hi Mike,
Glad to hear you have it working. It seemed we were close when you tried the PM speaker. Your trouble shooting seem to indicate the output transformer, but since it ohms out it is hard to immagine what could be wrong with it. They don't get core rot.
When you tried the PM speaker, did you disconnect the other? I am also curious if the 6SQ7 with the clipped pin 4 is in the set.
I have replaced dynamic speakers with PM speakers and placed a resistor in place of the field coil of the same resistance (1300 ohm in this case) at about 10 watts. You may get by with lower wattage with some calculations, but 10 watt won't cost you any more than a 5 watt.
If authenticity is a goal, you can get the old speaker reconed. It costs about $35. Before doing that, though you need to be sure the field coil is OK.

All the Best,

Bill

:::::::The list below shows the 6SQ7 is hooked up in the following manner:
:::::::L7 (IF) is connected to pin 5 (schematic shows L7 to pin 4) BG -> OK
:::::::C15 (250mmf) from L7 is hooked to pin 4. (sch. shows from C15 to pin 3) BG -> Very odd, It is also odd that you get ANY audio.
:::::::R4 (4.7m) is connected from pin 2 to pin 3 and strung thru pin 4 also. BG -> R4 looks good, but strung through pin 4 is very odd. I expect you thought so, also.
:::::::C14 (250mmf) from Pin 6 to pin 3. (sch. shows from pin 6 to grd.) BG -> Seems like a reasonable variation.
:::::::All the other pin hookups of 6SQ7 are per schematic. (C13, Grds. Filament)
:::
:::
:::The way your socket is wired in the radio is just as good as the way it is wired in the schematic.
:::
:::The top of the IF secondary is wired to pin 5 in your radio....which is the same as pin 4 (both are detector plates, that collect electrons from the same cathode). C15 is connected to pin 4...seems odd, because it should go to pin 3....however, later you find that R4 goes from 2 to 3 and then to 4. Well, it's supposed to go from the grid to some point at the same potential as the cathode....the cathode, pin 3, is connected to the center tap of the transformer, so R4 can connect to pin 3 or to any other wire that leads to the center tap of the power transformer. Also, the continuation from pin 3 to pin 4 grounds the detector plate which is connected to pin 4. Note how in the schematic, pin 5 is grounded to the chassis. Well, in your radio, pin 5 is being used, so then you ground pin 4. It doesn't have to connect to the chassis...just some solid B- point. The center tap of the power transformer is at the same potential as the cathode of the 6SQ7, and this works fine. Actually, the chassis is positive with respect to the cathode of the 6SQ7. Connecting the detector plate here would actually cause it to conduct, which isn't necessary.
:::
:::If you wanted to, you could clip the lead that jumps pin 4 to pin 3. Then connect pin 4 to pin 5. The two will give you slightly louder audio than one would.
:::
:::Check your 6SQ7 tube for proper emissions. Often these tubes will work perfectly in this kind of circuit even when they test as "REPLACE," but it is wise to test and check with a new tube, anyway.
:::
:::Again, the way your socket was wired from the factory is just fine. Check to be absolutely sure that you replaced all old condensers with new ones of the proper value. Replacing the .02 MFD unit with a .002 MFD unit won't affect the audio much, and the same goes with the .05 MFD unit. It will cut out a lot of the bass. However, if you put in values that are any smaller, the audio will suffer significantly. Did you do anything with the volume control? Does it work properly? Disconnect all wires going to it and measure its resistance from the center terminal to each end terminal. Operate the control and see to it that the resistance goes down to at least 100 ohms in each direction (zero ohms is optimum, and in some radios, a resistance as high as a few thousand ohms is possible...this is where a tone muting resistance was built into the control, though it may also be a fault). If you find that the control doesn't go to a really low resistance between the center terminal and the high terminal when the control is turned completely clockwise, try shunting across the two terminals with the control in the radio and the radio operating. If the volume jumps up much higher, then you know that your control is probably at fault. Replace with a similar resistance control. Using smaller resistances will severely attenuate the audio.
:::
:::Make sure, too, that all screen grid connections to the RF tubes are good, and that all condensers on these connections are of the proper values. If screen grid resistors, connections, or condensers are bad, the RF tubes won't amplify properly. The screen grid, by the way, is the second grid in the IF and RF amp. tubes (pin 6), and the second and fourth grids (pin 4) in the 6SA7 tube, though if these grids aren't functioning properly, you probably won't get any signal. Make sure that you are connecting a long antenna wire to the antenna terminal. This radio won't function properly without one. The wire must run in one direction. It cannot fold back upon itself. Folding back causes signal inversion and cancellation.
:::
:::
::
::I hooked up a speaker and matching output transformer from a Montgomery Ward 64BR-1514A that I had laying around for parts and the radio started working great. I’m not sure of the match but it now has much more volume and clarity. I also tweaked the IFs which helped even more. Previously I jumped a PM speaker to it but it did not pick up the volume so I ruled it out as a problem (must have done it wrong). The problem was in the speaker itself because the output transformer attached to it and the bucking coil ohm’d out good. The Air Castle speaker has only one small tear but looks like the whole cone has been covered with a glue or something. When I hooked up the Montgomery Ward speaker I tapped into the bucking coil of the Air Castle to get it to work. If I use the Ward speaker which just has only an output transformer can I use something in the bucking coils place? Would I be better off hooking up a PM Speaker?
::
::Mike
::Thanks for every ones help on this one it has been a great learning experience for me.
::
:Hi Mike,
: Glad to hear you have it working. It seemed we were close when you tried the PM speaker. Your trouble shooting seem to indicate the output transformer, but since it ohms out it is hard to immagine what could be wrong with it. They don't get core rot.
: When you tried the PM speaker, did you disconnect the other? I am also curious if the 6SQ7 with the clipped pin 4 is in the set.
: I have replaced dynamic speakers with PM speakers and placed a resistor in place of the field coil of the same resistance (1300 ohm in this case) at about 10 watts. You may get by with lower wattage with some calculations, but 10 watt won't cost you any more than a 5 watt.
: If authenticity is a goal, you can get the old speaker reconed. It costs about $35. Before doing that, though you need to be sure the field coil is OK.
:
:All the Best,
:
:Bill

Hi Bill,
I did not disconnect the Air Castle speaker, just jumped it to the PM when I did the test. I also replaced the 6SQ7 with a non clipped pin 4. After hooking up the Wards speaker I jumped it back to the Air Castle speaker (bypassing the Air Castle speaker output trans) and it had low volume and sounded muffled. (Both speakers were playing at this time)
Thanks Mike

::::::::The list below shows the 6SQ7 is hooked up in the following manner:
::::::::L7 (IF) is connected to pin 5 (schematic shows L7 to pin 4) BG -> OK
::::::::C15 (250mmf) from L7 is hooked to pin 4. (sch. shows from C15 to pin 3) BG -> Very odd, It is also odd that you get ANY audio.
::::::::R4 (4.7m) is connected from pin 2 to pin 3 and strung thru pin 4 also. BG -> R4 looks good, but strung through pin 4 is very odd. I expect you thought so, also.
::::::::C14 (250mmf) from Pin 6 to pin 3. (sch. shows from pin 6 to grd.) BG -> Seems like a reasonable variation.
::::::::All the other pin hookups of 6SQ7 are per schematic. (C13, Grds. Filament)
::::
::::
::::The way your socket is wired in the radio is just as good as the way it is wired in the schematic.
::::
::::The top of the IF secondary is wired to pin 5 in your radio....which is the same as pin 4 (both are detector plates, that collect electrons from the same cathode). C15 is connected to pin 4...seems odd, because it should go to pin 3....however, later you find that R4 goes from 2 to 3 and then to 4. Well, it's supposed to go from the grid to some point at the same potential as the cathode....the cathode, pin 3, is connected to the center tap of the transformer, so R4 can connect to pin 3 or to any other wire that leads to the center tap of the power transformer. Also, the continuation from pin 3 to pin 4 grounds the detector plate which is connected to pin 4. Note how in the schematic, pin 5 is grounded to the chassis. Well, in your radio, pin 5 is being used, so then you ground pin 4. It doesn't have to connect to the chassis...just some solid B- point. The center tap of the power transformer is at the same potential as the cathode of the 6SQ7, and this works fine. Actually, the chassis is positive with respect to the cathode of the 6SQ7. Connecting the detector plate here would actually cause it to conduct, which isn't necessary.
::::
::::If you wanted to, you could clip the lead that jumps pin 4 to pin 3. Then connect pin 4 to pin 5. The two will give you slightly louder audio than one would.
::::
::::Check your 6SQ7 tube for proper emissions. Often these tubes will work perfectly in this kind of circuit even when they test as "REPLACE," but it is wise to test and check with a new tube, anyway.
::::
::::Again, the way your socket was wired from the factory is just fine. Check to be absolutely sure that you replaced all old condensers with new ones of the proper value. Replacing the .02 MFD unit with a .002 MFD unit won't affect the audio much, and the same goes with the .05 MFD unit. It will cut out a lot of the bass. However, if you put in values that are any smaller, the audio will suffer significantly. Did you do anything with the volume control? Does it work properly? Disconnect all wires going to it and measure its resistance from the center terminal to each end terminal. Operate the control and see to it that the resistance goes down to at least 100 ohms in each direction (zero ohms is optimum, and in some radios, a resistance as high as a few thousand ohms is possible...this is where a tone muting resistance was built into the control, though it may also be a fault). If you find that the control doesn't go to a really low resistance between the center terminal and the high terminal when the control is turned completely clockwise, try shunting across the two terminals with the control in the radio and the radio operating. If the volume jumps up much higher, then you know that your control is probably at fault. Replace with a similar resistance control. Using smaller resistances will severely attenuate the audio.
::::
::::Make sure, too, that all screen grid connections to the RF tubes are good, and that all condensers on these connections are of the proper values. If screen grid resistors, connections, or condensers are bad, the RF tubes won't amplify properly. The screen grid, by the way, is the second grid in the IF and RF amp. tubes (pin 6), and the second and fourth grids (pin 4) in the 6SA7 tube, though if these grids aren't functioning properly, you probably won't get any signal. Make sure that you are connecting a long antenna wire to the antenna terminal. This radio won't function properly without one. The wire must run in one direction. It cannot fold back upon itself. Folding back causes signal inversion and cancellation.
::::
::::
:::
:::I hooked up a speaker and matching output transformer from a Montgomery Ward 64BR-1514A that I had laying around for parts and the radio started working great. I’m not sure of the match but it now has much more volume and clarity. I also tweaked the IFs which helped even more. Previously I jumped a PM speaker to it but it did not pick up the volume so I ruled it out as a problem (must have done it wrong). The problem was in the speaker itself because the output transformer attached to it and the bucking coil ohm’d out good. The Air Castle speaker has only one small tear but looks like the whole cone has been covered with a glue or something. When I hooked up the Montgomery Ward speaker I tapped into the bucking coil of the Air Castle to get it to work. If I use the Ward speaker which just has only an output transformer can I use something in the bucking coils place? Would I be better off hooking up a PM Speaker?
:::
:::Mike
:::Thanks for every ones help on this one it has been a great learning experience for me.
:::
::Hi Mike,
:: Glad to hear you have it working. It seemed we were close when you tried the PM speaker. Your trouble shooting seem to indicate the output transformer, but since it ohms out it is hard to immagine what could be wrong with it. They don't get core rot.
:: When you tried the PM speaker, did you disconnect the other? I am also curious if the 6SQ7 with the clipped pin 4 is in the set.
:: I have replaced dynamic speakers with PM speakers and placed a resistor in place of the field coil of the same resistance (1300 ohm in this case) at about 10 watts. You may get by with lower wattage with some calculations, but 10 watt won't cost you any more than a 5 watt.
:: If authenticity is a goal, you can get the old speaker reconed. It costs about $35. Before doing that, though you need to be sure the field coil is OK.
::
::All the Best,
::
::Bill
:
:Hi Bill,
:I did not disconnect the Air Castle speaker, just jumped it to the PM when I did the test. I also replaced the 6SQ7 with a non clipped pin 4. After hooking up the Wards speaker I jumped it back to the Air Castle speaker (bypassing the Air Castle speaker output trans) and it had low volume and sounded muffled. (Both speakers were playing at this time)
:Thanks Mike
:
:
:
Hi Mike,
If you disconnect the stock speaker and attach the PM speaker to the output transformer and the PM works well, then the stock speaker would be a good candidate for reconing, that is if you want to go that route. Seems like all is well now using the speaker from your junk box.
I am still puzzled about that diode on the 6SQ7, it didn't look right to me, but since it is working well, it must be right. I am suspecting that it is a separate AGC recifier, a design improvement that is not documented.

Best Regards,

Bill

Regarding the diode, read what I said. I explained it well. When the radio was put together, they simply reversed the roles of the diodes. Instead of using one diode as a detector and grounding the other, they grounded the first one and used the other as a detector. One of the diodes is grounded, and one is used as a detector. The diode not being used as a detector is not being used for anything else, either.

Thomas