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RESTORING A MAJESTIC MODEL 11356
6/12/2006 7:49:24 PMAlberto
Hi,
I'm starting to restore an old Majestic Model 11356 Wooden Radio that owned my familly since 1940. My grand parents get this radio new, but now are incomplete.
Replacing tubes will be the easier part, but I can't get any information about mechanical issues for this radio, just electronics, including the extraordinary material on this web site, schematic,list parts and user instruction. Maybe there is some "Repair manual" to get a view about mechanical parts.
This radio has a woofer, that still are in its place (I don't know if are original), but the tweeter is missing. I will like to get exactly this part to, finally come close to the original sound. I will have to replace all caps and resistors, of course, I think with modern paper in oil or something similar.
I will appreciatte a lot if someone has other info about this beautifull radio.
Here, we are the third generation with this radio that a cousin and I will like to restore.
Best regards,
Alberto
Santiago-Chile
6/13/2006 12:07:13 AMThomas Dermody
For the condensers, metalized film condenserse make nice replacements (www.tubesandmore.com, www.radiodaze.com). It isn't necessary to replace all resistors unless they are all off value. It is also not necessary to replace any of the tubes unless any of them test weak and/or perform poorly....some tubes test weak and perform fine. It is best that you first work on replacing condensers and testing resistors. Then, after you've covered that field, try the radio out. If it doesn't work properly, test the tubes. If they're all good, then you probably have other issues (bad coils, coils out of tune...though this isn't likely unless someone played around with the settings).

Someone else will have to come up with what the original tweeter looked like, or what would make a good substitute.

T.

6/13/2006 9:53:27 AMAlberto
Hi Thomas,
thank you very much for your input.
Regarding tubes, there is no tubes at all. I remember that when I was a child, 35 years ago, there are tubes glowing but the radio do not work. Since I own a modern DIY tube amp I know where I can get here.
I will do all your mentioned test, but I hope I can get the service manual.
Since I'm not a technician, still I don't know if the 6V6G output tubes run in PP or in single ended. As far as I know, this tube has a maximum of 5.5 watts output.
I believe that are some mechanical parts missing, but about 95% or more are there.
Best regards,
Alberto
6/13/2006 1:04:00 PMDoug Criner
Alberto, here is your schematic: http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel/415/M0010415.pdf This is probably the closest thing you will find to a "service manual."

By inspection of the schematic, the pair of 6V6s are arranged in push-pull. There is a phase inverter tube that is used to generate the negative version of the ouput.

This set is well worth repairing, particularly with its sentimental value. However, this isn't an ideal set to start out on if you do not have experience in reading schematics, particularly if some of the mechanical parts are missing.

Often, when a set is encountered with all tubes missing, there are some other problems with the radio -- which perhaps led somebody in the past to rip out the tubes and perhaps other parts.

6/13/2006 1:46:29 PMThomas Dermody
Another way to tell if a set uses push-pull or parallel is to look at the output transformer (if you should lack a schematic). Usually a parallel output amplifier will use an output transformer like any single tube output--it'll have two primary leads (the impedance will be lower, though). If it has three leads, two out of the three will be connected to the power supply of the radio. Only one will connect to the output tubes' plates, and the plates will both be tied together. In this case, the plates are pin 3.
On the other hand, if the amplifier employs push-pull, there will definitely be three leads coming out the primary of the output transformer. Two of the leads will go to the output tubes' plates (one wire per plate). There will be no connection between the plates (other than perhaps a tone condenser). The third wire, usually mounted in the center on the transformer, will go to the radio's power supply.

T.

6/13/2006 2:35:39 PMAlberto
Hi Thomas,
thanks for your advises. I will do a close inspection to see all your mentioned details,as soon as I can.
Kind regards,
Alberto
P.S.I'm surprised about the lack of pictures or info about this radio. Is a big one and very beautifull. Furniture are still in very good condition (my cousing use this as a part of their home decoration (haha, this must change in short time)
6/14/2006 1:08:24 AMThomas Dermody
Judging by the circuitry, this is one really fine radio. It should perform well for you. Hopefully AM radio is good listening by you.

T.

6/16/2006 3:22:44 PMAlberto
Hi Thomas,
yes, I supose that this radio was a very good sounding and a big one. I supose also, that maybe was one of the top models of that year production. Well, I can't find any picture on the net to show you how big is, but I will take some one soon.
What do you think about paper in oil caps, like jensen as a replacement?
Best regards,
Alberto
6/16/2006 4:56:12 PMDoug Criner
Oil/paper caps - way overkill, in my opinion. Ordinary electrolytic caps will do fine for much less cost. With this antique radio/phono, you won't be able to hear any difference.

6/16/2006 5:58:07 PMAlberto
Hi Doug,
you are right, I can't try this radio as a Hi -End equipment. AM band, here is not good enough.
I will put the best, but with point lost.
Thanks for your advise.
Regards,
Alberto
P.S. Do you know if this forum allow picture publishing?
6/16/2006 4:57:54 PMThomas Dermody
I think that you should use metalized film capacitors (www.tubesandmore.com, or www.radiodaze.com). Oil soaked paper insulated capacitors are what were originally used in almost all radios of that era. The paper absorbs water (don't know how, since it's oil soaked, but it does). This causes leakage. Also, acids in the oil dissolve very small bits of aluminum, which migrate into the paper, causing a leakage path. Oil soaked paper capacitors leak, and any leakage at all, even in the millions of ohms, is not good in a tube type circuit. Tube type circuits are high impedance circuits, and are extremely sensitive. Best to use metalized film capacitors as replacements.

Thomas

6/16/2006 5:54:10 PMAlberto
Hi Thomas,
well, Metallized caps are a lot cheap than good papaer in oil, so will be easy.
BTW, I have used PIO caps on my 300B SET amp and on my phono preamp without any trouble. I have Jensen caps installed, but I will like to replace them with Audio Note PIO, very expensive, but they worth any penny.
Yes, Doug is right, I don't think this AM and short wave radio worth to spend money in very expensive exotic caps. Polipropilene metalized caps are also very good for the price.
Best regards,
Alberto
6/16/2006 6:31:05 PMDoug Criner
I have a pair of NOS Sprague "Vitamin Q" caps, which I think are oil/paper caps. They are sought after by audiophiles.

I was going to use them in my hi-fi pre-amp (tube-type), but I decided to just use plain-old film caps (modern). Someday, I might auction the Vitamin Qs on eBay - maybe get $10 for the pair? I think they're .01 or .047 - I'd have to go dig them out to be sure. Modern 630-V film caps would be about 50 cents each.

Oil/Paper caps are no longer being made are they?

6/16/2006 7:38:05 PMAlberto
:I have a pair of NOS Sprague "Vitamin Q" caps, which I think are oil/paper caps. They are sought after by audiophiles.

HI Doug,
yes, still there are PIO caps. Jensen has tin foil, aluminium foil, copper foil and silver foil, are very good cost/quality, but if you want the best,then you may go to Audio Note caps, but you must pay a lot of money.
http://www.jensencapacitors.com/audio/products/
http://www.audionote.co.uk/index_comp.htm
http://www.partsconnexion.com/catalog/CapacitorsFilm.html
Bets regards,
Alberto

6/13/2006 2:31:10 PMAlberto
Hi Doug,
thanks for your input.
Yes, I have that pdf file taken from this site. Was my first step.
I had a limited basic experience reading electronic schemes, just when I have assemble a SET 300B amp and a phono stage (now I'm restoring a Thorens TD125 TT). I can identify almost all parts, but I have not the knowledge about wich particular design is.
As you said, this is not a good starter proyect due to the complexity, but is a challenge to me. It has a very deep sentimental meaning to me, of course.
Still I can't do a close and detailed inspection since this radio is on a cousin house (he own the radio at the moment) so I will go to do some inventary as soon as I can.
Best regards.
Alberto
P.S. I will publish some pictures when I can. I really don't find any picture of this big radio on the net.


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