Since we seem to have gone through just about everything else there is aside from changing out the flyback, I can't really think of anything else. However, are you absolutely sure that the flyback is connected correctly? Is it at all possible that someone else who worked on this set misconnected the wires? It just seems strange that you're getting a horizontal sweep signal to the 6BG6, and you're getting B+ to the flyback. Yet nothing generates at the flyback. Any wire put out of place on the flyback would mess up operation. Reversing the two center tapped coils for eachother would certainly keep the coil from generating high voltages.

T.

Thomas,
I have gone over it so many times it's not funny. I will check it again. I am determined to get high voltage. So I will continue to work on it until I find what's wrong.

Thanks,

Dave
:Since we seem to have gone through just about everything else there is aside from changing out the flyback, I can't really think of anything else. However, are you absolutely sure that the flyback is connected correctly? Is it at all possible that someone else who worked on this set misconnected the wires? It just seems strange that you're getting a horizontal sweep signal to the 6BG6, and you're getting B+ to the flyback. Yet nothing generates at the flyback. Any wire put out of place on the flyback would mess up operation. Reversing the two center tapped coils for eachother would certainly keep the coil from generating high voltages.
:
:T.

Thomas,
Everything's hooked up perfectly according to the hook-up diagram and the schematic. I put a neon tester inside the high voltage box. There are 4 neon bulbs inside. None lit up. I guess I have to attach one end of a real neon bulb to the chassis and let the other end hang near the high voltage somewhere.
There is still no high voltage.
When I turn on the set there are sounds inside the high voltage box for maybe a second, they go away. This is followed by a very quiet ticking sound from inside the box. That continues for as long as the set is on. Do you know where I can find a FLY-1 flyback transformer to try out? My parts distributor doesn't have one.

Thanks,

Dave

:Thomas,
: I have gone over it so many times it's not funny. I will check it again. I am determined to get high voltage. So I will continue to work on it until I find what's wrong.
:
:Thanks,
:
:Dave
::Since we seem to have gone through just about everything else there is aside from changing out the flyback, I can't really think of anything else. However, are you absolutely sure that the flyback is connected correctly? Is it at all possible that someone else who worked on this set misconnected the wires? It just seems strange that you're getting a horizontal sweep signal to the 6BG6, and you're getting B+ to the flyback. Yet nothing generates at the flyback. Any wire put out of place on the flyback would mess up operation. Reversing the two center tapped coils for eachother would certainly keep the coil from generating high voltages.
::
::T.

HI Dave,

You may have already tried these suggestions:

The sounds you describe are suspicious. Can you operate the set with the HV cage open? If so, turn off the lights and turn on the set, do you see any arching? Arching will load the flyback. Arching is sometimes not visible but produces a sound and a distinct odor. I used to know what caused the odor, but I forget (getting old I guess).

Have you checked the HV rectifier tube socket for signs of arching (top and bottom)?

Have you checked the filament winding for the HV rectifier? Make sure there is no arching around it.

One test you can do to see if the flyback is working is to TURN OFF the set, remove the cap from the rectifier and position it about an inch or so from the metal HV cage. Turn on the set, you should get a bright arc. DO NOT LET THE SET RUN LIKE THIS FOR MORE THAN A COUPLE OF SECONDS.

Gary

:Thomas,
: Everything's hooked up perfectly according to the hook-up diagram and the schematic. I put a neon tester inside the high voltage box. There are 4 neon bulbs inside. None lit up. I guess I have to attach one end of a real neon bulb to the chassis and let the other end hang near the high voltage somewhere.
: There is still no high voltage.
: When I turn on the set there are sounds inside the high voltage box for maybe a second, they go away. This is followed by a very quiet ticking sound from inside the box. That continues for as long as the set is on. Do you know where I can find a FLY-1 flyback transformer to try out? My parts distributor doesn't have one.
:
:Thanks,
:
:Dave
:
::Thomas,
:: I have gone over it so many times it's not funny. I will check it again. I am determined to get high voltage. So I will continue to work on it until I find what's wrong.
::
::Thanks,
::
::Dave
:::Since we seem to have gone through just about everything else there is aside from changing out the flyback, I can't really think of anything else. However, are you absolutely sure that the flyback is connected correctly? Is it at all possible that someone else who worked on this set misconnected the wires? It just seems strange that you're getting a horizontal sweep signal to the 6BG6, and you're getting B+ to the flyback. Yet nothing generates at the flyback. Any wire put out of place on the flyback would mess up operation. Reversing the two center tapped coils for eachother would certainly keep the coil from generating high voltages.
:::
:::T.

Yeah, ticking sounds like arcing.....the thing could be building up. Then, once the arcing starts, the flyback stops working properly. What I was also thinking, regarding the flyback not being wired properly, is that the proper coils could be hooked up, but not necessarily in phase (one end of a coil switched for the other). This would also prevent feedback and build-up of voltage. Sounds like you have an arcing problem, though.

I have a flyback from a 1960s Zenith. Probably wouldn't work in your set. I don't see why the flyback from a set similar to your's (like the 630TS) wouldn't work. It may have a slightly different turn count, but works with the same tubes with similar circuits and voltages. I'm rather angry that I turned away a whole bunch of television repair parts, including very early 1950s/late 1940s flybacks. I did this years ago when I was in highschool. Never thought I'd have interest.

T.

Thomas,
This ticking is very faint. It has to be completely silent in the room to hear it. I have an unknown flyback but I don't think it will work. Also the flyback in the set looks like the wax coating it melted in its history. But I've seen other flybacks that look like that but work fine.

Thanks,

Dave
:Yeah, ticking sounds like arcing.....the thing could be building up. Then, once the arcing starts, the flyback stops working properly. What I was also thinking, regarding the flyback not being wired properly, is that the proper coils could be hooked up, but not necessarily in phase (one end of a coil switched for the other). This would also prevent feedback and build-up of voltage. Sounds like you have an arcing problem, though.
:
:I have a flyback from a 1960s Zenith. Probably wouldn't work in your set. I don't see why the flyback from a set similar to your's (like the 630TS) wouldn't work. It may have a slightly different turn count, but works with the same tubes with similar circuits and voltages. I'm rather angry that I turned away a whole bunch of television repair parts, including very early 1950s/late 1940s flybacks. I did this years ago when I was in highschool. Never thought I'd have interest.
:
:T.

Thomas, Edd, Norm,
I was able to find a flyback transformer. I replaced it and my check tube has a raster. I have to tune something in. But I think I have solved the problem and wanted everyone to know about it.

Thanks,

Dave
:Thomas,
: This ticking is very faint. It has to be completely silent in the room to hear it. I have an unknown flyback but I don't think it will work. Also the flyback in the set looks like the wax coating it melted in its history. But I've seen other flybacks that look like that but work fine.
:
:Thanks,
:
:Dave
::Yeah, ticking sounds like arcing.....the thing could be building up. Then, once the arcing starts, the flyback stops working properly. What I was also thinking, regarding the flyback not being wired properly, is that the proper coils could be hooked up, but not necessarily in phase (one end of a coil switched for the other). This would also prevent feedback and build-up of voltage. Sounds like you have an arcing problem, though.
::
::I have a flyback from a 1960s Zenith. Probably wouldn't work in your set. I don't see why the flyback from a set similar to your's (like the 630TS) wouldn't work. It may have a slightly different turn count, but works with the same tubes with similar circuits and voltages. I'm rather angry that I turned away a whole bunch of television repair parts, including very early 1950s/late 1940s flybacks. I did this years ago when I was in highschool. Never thought I'd have interest.
::
::T.

Gary,
The odor you are talking about is Ozone. It was thought that Ozone was healthy to breathe. But I think it was found, later, to be a cancer causer. The odor is ozone. There isn't enough high voltage to make any arc longer than about 1mm in length. I can see no arcing in the HV cage when the lights are off.
Please take a look at May. There is a thread called "KCS-28 aka. 8-T-243 burned resistor". That has all the details about what I've done so far. I have operated the set with the HV cage open.
Yes, I agree, the flyback transformer could be arcing internally. All I need is a FLY-1 to test my theory. Do you know where I could find one?

Thanks,

Dave
:HI Dave,
:
:You may have already tried these suggestions:
:
:The sounds you describe are suspicious. Can you operate the set with the HV cage open? If so, turn off the lights and turn on the set, do you see any arching? Arching will load the flyback. Arching is sometimes not visible but produces a sound and a distinct odor. I used to know what caused the odor, but I forget (getting old I guess).
:
:Have you checked the HV rectifier tube socket for signs of arching (top and bottom)?
:
:Have you checked the filament winding for the HV rectifier? Make sure there is no arching around it.
:
:One test you can do to see if the flyback is working is to TURN OFF the set, remove the cap from the rectifier and position it about an inch or so from the metal HV cage. Turn on the set, you should get a bright arc. DO NOT LET THE SET RUN LIKE THIS FOR MORE THAN A COUPLE OF SECONDS.
:
:Gary
:
:
::Thomas,
:: Everything's hooked up perfectly according to the hook-up diagram and the schematic. I put a neon tester inside the high voltage box. There are 4 neon bulbs inside. None lit up. I guess I have to attach one end of a real neon bulb to the chassis and let the other end hang near the high voltage somewhere.
:: There is still no high voltage.
:: When I turn on the set there are sounds inside the high voltage box for maybe a second, they go away. This is followed by a very quiet ticking sound from inside the box. That continues for as long as the set is on. Do you know where I can find a FLY-1 flyback transformer to try out? My parts distributor doesn't have one.
::
::Thanks,
::
::Dave
::
:::Thomas,
::: I have gone over it so many times it's not funny. I will check it again. I am determined to get high voltage. So I will continue to work on it until I find what's wrong.
:::
:::Thanks,
:::
:::Dave
::::Since we seem to have gone through just about everything else there is aside from changing out the flyback, I can't really think of anything else. However, are you absolutely sure that the flyback is connected correctly? Is it at all possible that someone else who worked on this set misconnected the wires? It just seems strange that you're getting a horizontal sweep signal to the 6BG6, and you're getting B+ to the flyback. Yet nothing generates at the flyback. Any wire put out of place on the flyback would mess up operation. Reversing the two center tapped coils for eachother would certainly keep the coil from generating high voltages.
::::
::::T.

It appears by your prior semantics that you have only considered, and not performed the mounting of the neon lamp.
As per my :

Take a NE2 or 51 lamp and affix a bit longer bare wire to its lead set so that the unit can be grounded to the HV cage and then the envelope permanently positioned as close to the outer periphery of the HV tire to the extent that the generated electrostatic tension to be produced will ionize and light up the inner neon gas to the greatest degree possible. By this stationary positioning you will then have a pre-positioned/fixed visual reference of the degree of high voltage produced. In that respect you will then repetitively be able to see if there is an increase in the HV level ….or particularly…..if you are actually experiencing a peak and decline after the sweep tubes peak at initial warm-up such as you seem to suspect….merely by looking at the lamps brilliance increase, along with a dimming if declining. Believe me, when you get things working up to par the induced electrostatic coupling will have the lamp producing a strong orange illumination.

Also UNTIL you get the drive and sweep output up to a corona threshold of the NE2 adjunct to the High voltage tire’s periphery, there is absolutely no need of having the 1B3 in circuit…… so unplug it and store it aside . This will leave its (1B3) plate cap floating in the air and with the additional benefit of not having the 1B3’s parasitically derived filament even placing any load requirements on the fly cores created flux density.

Also this info would be useful: Get a .1 ufd 400/600 WVDC cap and twirl one of its leads around your DVM red lead, to use it for series DC isolation , with your black lead always connected to chassis ground. You will then switch metering into the AC input mode and sample the voltage measured on the plate of the hoz oscillator tube, as it warms up at turn, on and log in the peak voltage attained and see if it stabilizes or drops back. Then move over to the 1st grid of the ‘BG6 and do the same thing. With those figures / levels in mind, look over to the proximity of the PLASTIC INSULATED WIRE plate line from the cap of the ‘BG6 to the flyback. Fashion the free end of that isolation caps end wire into a right angle turn such that you have about an inch of wire at the end . The idea now being to use that “pickup” area to move progressively up to that insulated plate wire …parallel to it….for maximum pickup…..and see if , upon the sets turn on, that there is a gradual electrostatic induction of a reading upon the AC metering. That being indicative of any amplification action at all in the hoz output /fly driver section. Get the highest reading that the inter capacitance proximity of the two elements will permit you to acquire. In that manner you could gauge the rtelative interstage health of the progressing hoz drive signal. Unless it is stopping at the hoz output stage.
Standing by for analysis feed back.

PS…. I also have one of your Eico 460 recurrent sweep silly scopes stored away in the attic. Compared along with my many Tek’s and HP’s, I can only say that if I taped a dollar to the case of the ‘460 and pushed it off the face of a cliff….only then…. could I justifiably say that I had lost something of value !

73’s de Edd

ADD ON:
As per the flyback “tire” comment:

http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/2707/hvflybacktire4lb.jpg

Note that your fly tire is going to be much narrower than the depicted ‘wide track” wax clad flyback transformer of a color TV set, yours will be more towards the old 6.70x 15 roadster’s diameter.

Edd,
I now know what you are asking me to do and will do this during the week. I will do both things and let you know the results. I saw the picture as well. So I sure about what the HV tire is.

Thanks,

Dave
:It appears by your prior semantics that you have only considered, and not performed the mounting of the neon lamp.
:As per my :
:
:Take a NE2 or 51 lamp and affix a bit longer bare wire to its lead set so that the unit can be grounded to the HV cage and then the envelope permanently positioned as close to the outer periphery of the HV tire to the extent that the generated electrostatic tension to be produced will ionize and light up the inner neon gas to the greatest degree possible. By this stationary positioning you will then have a pre-positioned/fixed visual reference of the degree of high voltage produced. In that respect you will then repetitively be able to see if there is an increase in the HV level ….or particularly…..if you are actually experiencing a peak and decline after the sweep tubes peak at initial warm-up such as you seem to suspect….merely by looking at the lamps brilliance increase, along with a dimming if declining. Believe me, when you get things working up to par the induced electrostatic coupling will have the lamp producing a strong orange illumination.
:
:Also UNTIL you get the drive and sweep output up to a corona threshold of the NE2 adjunct to the High voltage tire’s periphery, there is absolutely no need of having the 1B3 in circuit…… so unplug it and store it aside . This will leave its (1B3) plate cap floating in the air and with the additional benefit of not having the 1B3’s parasitically derived filament even placing any load requirements on the fly cores created flux density.
:
:Also this info would be useful: Get a .1 ufd 400/600 WVDC cap and twirl one of its leads around your DVM red lead, to use it for series DC isolation , with your black lead always connected to chassis ground. You will then switch metering into the AC input mode and sample the voltage measured on the plate of the hoz oscillator tube, as it warms up at turn, on and log in the peak voltage attained and see if it stabilizes or drops back. Then move over to the 1st grid of the ‘BG6 and do the same thing. With those figures / levels in mind, look over to the proximity of the PLASTIC INSULATED WIRE plate line from the cap of the ‘BG6 to the flyback. Fashion the free end of that isolation caps end wire into a right angle turn such that you have about an inch of wire at the end . The idea now being to use that “pickup” area to move progressively up to that insulated plate wire …parallel to it….for maximum pickup…..and see if , upon the sets turn on, that there is a gradual electrostatic induction of a reading upon the AC metering. That being indicative of any amplification action at all in the hoz output /fly driver section. Get the highest reading that the inter capacitance proximity of the two elements will permit you to acquire. In that manner you could gauge the rtelative interstage health of the progressing hoz drive signal. Unless it is stopping at the hoz output stage.
:Standing by for analysis feed back.
:
:PS…. I also have one of your Eico 460 recurrent sweep silly scopes stored away in the attic. Compared along with my many Tek’s and HP’s, I can only say that if I taped a dollar to the case of the ‘460 and pushed it off the face of a cliff….only then…. could I justifiably say that I had lost something of value !
:
:73’s de Edd
:
:
:ADD ON:
: As per the flyback “tire” comment:
:
:http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/2707/hvflybacktire4lb.jpg
:
:Note that your fly tire is going to be much narrower than the depicted ‘wide track” wax clad flyback transformer of a color TV set, yours will be more towards the old 6.70x 15 roadster’s diameter.
:

:Gary,
: The odor you are talking about is Ozone. It was thought that Ozone was healthy to breathe. But I think it was found, later, to be a cancer causer. The odor is ozone. There isn't enough high voltage to make any arc longer than about 1mm in length. I can see no arcing in the HV cage when the lights are off.
: Please take a look at May. There is a thread called "KCS-28 aka. 8-T-243 burned resistor". That has all the details about what I've done so far. I have operated the set with the HV cage open.
: Yes, I agree, the flyback transformer could be arcing internally. All I need is a FLY-1 to test my theory. Do you know where I could find one?
:
:Thanks,
:
:Dave
::HI Dave,
::
::You may have already tried these suggestions:
::
::The sounds you describe are suspicious. Can you operate the set with the HV cage open? If so, turn off the lights and turn on the set, do you see any arching? Arching will load the flyback. Arching is sometimes not visible but produces a sound and a distinct odor. I used to know what caused the odor, but I forget (getting old I guess).
::
::Have you checked the HV rectifier tube socket for signs of arching (top and bottom)?
::
::Have you checked the filament winding for the HV rectifier? Make sure there is no arching around it.
::
::One test you can do to see if the flyback is working is to TURN OFF the set, remove the cap from the rectifier and position it about an inch or so from the metal HV cage. Turn on the set, you should get a bright arc. DO NOT LET THE SET RUN LIKE THIS FOR MORE THAN A COUPLE OF SECONDS.
::
::Gary
::
::
:::Thomas,
::: Everything's hooked up perfectly according to the hook-up diagram and the schematic. I put a neon tester inside the high voltage box. There are 4 neon bulbs inside. None lit up. I guess I have to attach one end of a real neon bulb to the chassis and let the other end hang near the high voltage somewhere.
::: There is still no high voltage.
::: When I turn on the set there are sounds inside the high voltage box for maybe a second, they go away. This is followed by a very quiet ticking sound from inside the box. That continues for as long as the set is on. Do you know where I can find a FLY-1 flyback transformer to try out? My parts distributor doesn't have one.
:::
:::Thanks,
:::
:::Dave
:::
::::Thomas,
:::: I have gone over it so many times it's not funny. I will check it again. I am determined to get high voltage. So I will continue to work on it until I find what's wrong.
::::
::::Thanks,
::::
::::Dave
:::::Since we seem to have gone through just about everything else there is aside from changing out the flyback, I can't really think of anything else. However, are you absolutely sure that the flyback is connected correctly? Is it at all possible that someone else who worked on this set misconnected the wires? It just seems strange that you're getting a horizontal sweep signal to the 6BG6, and you're getting B+ to the flyback. Yet nothing generates at the flyback. Any wire put out of place on the flyback would mess up operation. Reversing the two center tapped coils for eachother would certainly keep the coil from generating high voltages.
:::::
:::::T.
Hi Dave
What I use for an indicator is a neon lamp with the leads snipped off and inserted into an end of a plastic straw, then with the set powered up put it near the Horizontal Output Tube Bellcap, do you see illumination of the bulb, if the Horizontal Output Tube is working you will see it illuminate quite well, thats where I always start when having High Voltage problems, it is very possible like Norm and Thomas have stated the Flyback could very well be the whole problem, do you have a Part Number of the original Flyback Transformer, I might be able to locate one for you?
Mark

Mark,
The number is 73570, which cross references to the FLY-1, says one of my electronic distributors.
I have another flyback transformer I could trade for it but I have no idea if it works. I may have some other items to trade for it, if you prefer.
I have some neon bulbs around here somewhere. If I cannot find one, I will get one and try to see if I can detect any high voltage at all.

Thanks,

Dave
::Gary,
:: The odor you are talking about is Ozone. It was thought that Ozone was healthy to breathe. But I think it was found, later, to be a cancer causer. The odor is ozone. There isn't enough high voltage to make any arc longer than about 1mm in length. I can see no arcing in the HV cage when the lights are off.
:: Please take a look at May. There is a thread called "KCS-28 aka. 8-T-243 burned resistor". That has all the details about what I've done so far. I have operated the set with the HV cage open.
:: Yes, I agree, the flyback transformer could be arcing internally. All I need is a FLY-1 to test my theory. Do you know where I could find one?
::
::Thanks,
::
::Dave
:::HI Dave,
:::
:::You may have already tried these suggestions:
:::
:::The sounds you describe are suspicious. Can you operate the set with the HV cage open? If so, turn off the lights and turn on the set, do you see any arching? Arching will load the flyback. Arching is sometimes not visible but produces a sound and a distinct odor. I used to know what caused the odor, but I forget (getting old I guess).
:::
:::Have you checked the HV rectifier tube socket for signs of arching (top and bottom)?
:::
:::Have you checked the filament winding for the HV rectifier? Make sure there is no arching around it.
:::
:::One test you can do to see if the flyback is working is to TURN OFF the set, remove the cap from the rectifier and position it about an inch or so from the metal HV cage. Turn on the set, you should get a bright arc. DO NOT LET THE SET RUN LIKE THIS FOR MORE THAN A COUPLE OF SECONDS.
:::
:::Gary
:::
:::
::::Thomas,
:::: Everything's hooked up perfectly according to the hook-up diagram and the schematic. I put a neon tester inside the high voltage box. There are 4 neon bulbs inside. None lit up. I guess I have to attach one end of a real neon bulb to the chassis and let the other end hang near the high voltage somewhere.
:::: There is still no high voltage.
:::: When I turn on the set there are sounds inside the high voltage box for maybe a second, they go away. This is followed by a very quiet ticking sound from inside the box. That continues for as long as the set is on. Do you know where I can find a FLY-1 flyback transformer to try out? My parts distributor doesn't have one.
::::
::::Thanks,
::::
::::Dave
::::
:::::Thomas,
::::: I have gone over it so many times it's not funny. I will check it again. I am determined to get high voltage. So I will continue to work on it until I find what's wrong.
:::::
:::::Thanks,
:::::
:::::Dave
::::::Since we seem to have gone through just about everything else there is aside from changing out the flyback, I can't really think of anything else. However, are you absolutely sure that the flyback is connected correctly? Is it at all possible that someone else who worked on this set misconnected the wires? It just seems strange that you're getting a horizontal sweep signal to the 6BG6, and you're getting B+ to the flyback. Yet nothing generates at the flyback. Any wire put out of place on the flyback would mess up operation. Reversing the two center tapped coils for eachother would certainly keep the coil from generating high voltages.
::::::
::::::T.
:Hi Dave
: What I use for an indicator is a neon lamp with the leads snipped off and inserted into an end of a plastic straw, then with the set powered up put it near the Horizontal Output Tube Bellcap, do you see illumination of the bulb, if the Horizontal Output Tube is working you will see it illuminate quite well, thats where I always start when having High Voltage problems, it is very possible like Norm and Thomas have stated the Flyback could very well be the whole problem, do you have a Part Number of the original Flyback Transformer, I might be able to locate one for you?
:Mark

:Mark,
: The number is 73570, which cross references to the FLY-1, says one of my electronic distributors.
: I have another flyback transformer I could trade for it but I have no idea if it works. I may have some other items to trade for it, if you prefer.
: I have some neon bulbs around here somewhere. If I cannot find one, I will get one and try to see if I can detect any high voltage at all.
:
:Thanks,
:
:Dave
:::Gary,
::: The odor you are talking about is Ozone. It was thought that Ozone was healthy to breathe. But I think it was found, later, to be a cancer causer. The odor is ozone. There isn't enough high voltage to make any arc longer than about 1mm in length. I can see no arcing in the HV cage when the lights are off.
::: Please take a look at May. There is a thread called "KCS-28 aka. 8-T-243 burned resistor". That has all the details about what I've done so far. I have operated the set with the HV cage open.
::: Yes, I agree, the flyback transformer could be arcing internally. All I need is a FLY-1 to test my theory. Do you know where I could find one?
:::
:::Thanks,
:::
:::Dave
::::HI Dave,
::::
::::You may have already tried these suggestions:
::::
::::The sounds you describe are suspicious. Can you operate the set with the HV cage open? If so, turn off the lights and turn on the set, do you see any arching? Arching will load the flyback. Arching is sometimes not visible but produces a sound and a distinct odor. I used to know what caused the odor, but I forget (getting old I guess).
::::
::::Have you checked the HV rectifier tube socket for signs of arching (top and bottom)?
::::
::::Have you checked the filament winding for the HV rectifier? Make sure there is no arching around it.
::::
::::One test you can do to see if the flyback is working is to TURN OFF the set, remove the cap from the rectifier and position it about an inch or so from the metal HV cage. Turn on the set, you should get a bright arc. DO NOT LET THE SET RUN LIKE THIS FOR MORE THAN A COUPLE OF SECONDS.
::::
::::Gary
::::
::::
:::::Thomas,
::::: Everything's hooked up perfectly according to the hook-up diagram and the schematic. I put a neon tester inside the high voltage box. There are 4 neon bulbs inside. None lit up. I guess I have to attach one end of a real neon bulb to the chassis and let the other end hang near the high voltage somewhere.
::::: There is still no high voltage.
::::: When I turn on the set there are sounds inside the high voltage box for maybe a second, they go away. This is followed by a very quiet ticking sound from inside the box. That continues for as long as the set is on. Do you know where I can find a FLY-1 flyback transformer to try out? My parts distributor doesn't have one.
:::::
:::::Thanks,
:::::
:::::Dave
:::::
::::::Thomas,
:::::: I have gone over it so many times it's not funny. I will check it again. I am determined to get high voltage. So I will continue to work on it until I find what's wrong.
::::::
::::::Thanks,
::::::
::::::Dave
:::::::Since we seem to have gone through just about everything else there is aside from changing out the flyback, I can't really think of anything else. However, are you absolutely sure that the flyback is connected correctly? Is it at all possible that someone else who worked on this set misconnected the wires? It just seems strange that you're getting a horizontal sweep signal to the 6BG6, and you're getting B+ to the flyback. Yet nothing generates at the flyback. Any wire put out of place on the flyback would mess up operation. Reversing the two center tapped coils for eachother would certainly keep the coil from generating high voltages.
:::::::
:::::::T.
::Hi Dave
:: What I use for an indicator is a neon lamp with the leads snipped off and inserted into an end of a plastic straw, then with the set powered up put it near the Horizontal Output Tube Bellcap, do you see illumination of the bulb, if the Horizontal Output Tube is working you will see it illuminate quite well, thats where I always start when having High Voltage problems, it is very possible like Norm and Thomas have stated the Flyback could very well be the whole problem, do you have a Part Number of the original Flyback Transformer, I might be able to locate one for you?
::Mark
Hi Dave
I will see if i can locate one, by the way is this for an RCA Television set?
Mark

Mark,
Yes it's an RCA tv. The model number is the name of this thread: 8-T-243. Chassis: KCS-28-1.

Thanks,

Dave
::Mark,
:: The number is 73570, which cross references to the FLY-1, says one of my electronic distributors.
:: I have another flyback transformer I could trade for it but I have no idea if it works. I may have some other items to trade for it, if you prefer.
:: I have some neon bulbs around here somewhere. If I cannot find one, I will get one and try to see if I can detect any high voltage at all.
::
::Thanks,
::
::Dave
::::Gary,
:::: The odor you are talking about is Ozone. It was thought that Ozone was healthy to breathe. But I think it was found, later, to be a cancer causer. The odor is ozone. There isn't enough high voltage to make any arc longer than about 1mm in length. I can see no arcing in the HV cage when the lights are off.
:::: Please take a look at May. There is a thread called "KCS-28 aka. 8-T-243 burned resistor". That has all the details about what I've done so far. I have operated the set with the HV cage open.
:::: Yes, I agree, the flyback transformer could be arcing internally. All I need is a FLY-1 to test my theory. Do you know where I could find one?
::::
::::Thanks,
::::
::::Dave
:::::HI Dave,
:::::
:::::You may have already tried these suggestions:
:::::
:::::The sounds you describe are suspicious. Can you operate the set with the HV cage open? If so, turn off the lights and turn on the set, do you see any arching? Arching will load the flyback. Arching is sometimes not visible but produces a sound and a distinct odor. I used to know what caused the odor, but I forget (getting old I guess).
:::::
:::::Have you checked the HV rectifier tube socket for signs of arching (top and bottom)?
:::::
:::::Have you checked the filament winding for the HV rectifier? Make sure there is no arching around it.
:::::
:::::One test you can do to see if the flyback is working is to TURN OFF the set, remove the cap from the rectifier and position it about an inch or so from the metal HV cage. Turn on the set, you should get a bright arc. DO NOT LET THE SET RUN LIKE THIS FOR MORE THAN A COUPLE OF SECONDS.
:::::
:::::Gary
:::::
:::::
::::::Thomas,
:::::: Everything's hooked up perfectly according to the hook-up diagram and the schematic. I put a neon tester inside the high voltage box. There are 4 neon bulbs inside. None lit up. I guess I have to attach one end of a real neon bulb to the chassis and let the other end hang near the high voltage somewhere.
:::::: There is still no high voltage.
:::::: When I turn on the set there are sounds inside the high voltage box for maybe a second, they go away. This is followed by a very quiet ticking sound from inside the box. That continues for as long as the set is on. Do you know where I can find a FLY-1 flyback transformer to try out? My parts distributor doesn't have one.
::::::
::::::Thanks,
::::::
::::::Dave
::::::
:::::::Thomas,
::::::: I have gone over it so many times it's not funny. I will check it again. I am determined to get high voltage. So I will continue to work on it until I find what's wrong.
:::::::
:::::::Thanks,
:::::::
:::::::Dave
::::::::Since we seem to have gone through just about everything else there is aside from changing out the flyback, I can't really think of anything else. However, are you absolutely sure that the flyback is connected correctly? Is it at all possible that someone else who worked on this set misconnected the wires? It just seems strange that you're getting a horizontal sweep signal to the 6BG6, and you're getting B+ to the flyback. Yet nothing generates at the flyback. Any wire put out of place on the flyback would mess up operation. Reversing the two center tapped coils for eachother would certainly keep the coil from generating high voltages.
::::::::
::::::::T.
:::Hi Dave
::: What I use for an indicator is a neon lamp with the leads snipped off and inserted into an end of a plastic straw, then with the set powered up put it near the Horizontal Output Tube Bellcap, do you see illumination of the bulb, if the Horizontal Output Tube is working you will see it illuminate quite well, thats where I always start when having High Voltage problems, it is very possible like Norm and Thomas have stated the Flyback could very well be the whole problem, do you have a Part Number of the original Flyback Transformer, I might be able to locate one for you?
:::Mark
:Hi Dave
: I will see if i can locate one, by the way is this for an RCA Television set?
:Mark

:Mark,
: Yes it's an RCA tv. The model number is the name of this thread: 8-T-243. Chassis: KCS-28-1.
:
:Thanks,
:
:Dave
:::Mark,
::: The number is 73570, which cross references to the FLY-1, says one of my electronic distributors.
::: I have another flyback transformer I could trade for it but I have no idea if it works. I may have some other items to trade for it, if you prefer.
::: I have some neon bulbs around here somewhere. If I cannot find one, I will get one and try to see if I can detect any high voltage at all.
:::
:::Thanks,
:::
:::Dave
:::::Gary,
::::: The odor you are talking about is Ozone. It was thought that Ozone was healthy to breathe. But I think it was found, later, to be a cancer causer. The odor is ozone. There isn't enough high voltage to make any arc longer than about 1mm in length. I can see no arcing in the HV cage when the lights are off.
::::: Please take a look at May. There is a thread called "KCS-28 aka. 8-T-243 burned resistor". That has all the details about what I've done so far. I have operated the set with the HV cage open.
::::: Yes, I agree, the flyback transformer could be arcing internally. All I need is a FLY-1 to test my theory. Do you know where I could find one?
:::::
:::::Thanks,
:::::
:::::Dave
::::::HI Dave,
::::::
::::::You may have already tried these suggestions:
::::::
::::::The sounds you describe are suspicious. Can you operate the set with the HV cage open? If so, turn off the lights and turn on the set, do you see any arching? Arching will load the flyback. Arching is sometimes not visible but produces a sound and a distinct odor. I used to know what caused the odor, but I forget (getting old I guess).
::::::
::::::Have you checked the HV rectifier tube socket for signs of arching (top and bottom)?
::::::
::::::Have you checked the filament winding for the HV rectifier? Make sure there is no arching around it.
::::::
::::::One test you can do to see if the flyback is working is to TURN OFF the set, remove the cap from the rectifier and position it about an inch or so from the metal HV cage. Turn on the set, you should get a bright arc. DO NOT LET THE SET RUN LIKE THIS FOR MORE THAN A COUPLE OF SECONDS.
::::::
::::::Gary
::::::
::::::
:::::::Thomas,
::::::: Everything's hooked up perfectly according to the hook-up diagram and the schematic. I put a neon tester inside the high voltage box. There are 4 neon bulbs inside. None lit up. I guess I have to attach one end of a real neon bulb to the chassis and let the other end hang near the high voltage somewhere.
::::::: There is still no high voltage.
::::::: When I turn on the set there are sounds inside the high voltage box for maybe a second, they go away. This is followed by a very quiet ticking sound from inside the box. That continues for as long as the set is on. Do you know where I can find a FLY-1 flyback transformer to try out? My parts distributor doesn't have one.
:::::::
:::::::Thanks,
:::::::
:::::::Dave
:::::::
::::::::Thomas,
:::::::: I have gone over it so many times it's not funny. I will check it again. I am determined to get high voltage. So I will continue to work on it until I find what's wrong.
::::::::
::::::::Thanks,
::::::::
::::::::Dave
:::::::::Since we seem to have gone through just about everything else there is aside from changing out the flyback, I can't really think of anything else. However, are you absolutely sure that the flyback is connected correctly? Is it at all possible that someone else who worked on this set misconnected the wires? It just seems strange that you're getting a horizontal sweep signal to the 6BG6, and you're getting B+ to the flyback. Yet nothing generates at the flyback. Any wire put out of place on the flyback would mess up operation. Reversing the two center tapped coils for eachother would certainly keep the coil from generating high voltages.
:::::::::
:::::::::T.
::::Hi Dave
:::: What I use for an indicator is a neon lamp with the leads snipped off and inserted into an end of a plastic straw, then with the set powered up put it near the Horizontal Output Tube Bellcap, do you see illumination of the bulb, if the Horizontal Output Tube is working you will see it illuminate quite well, thats where I always start when having High Voltage problems, it is very possible like Norm and Thomas have stated the Flyback could very well be the whole problem, do you have a Part Number of the original Flyback Transformer, I might be able to locate one for you?
::::Mark
::Hi Dave
:: I will see if i can locate one, by the way is this for an RCA Television set?
::Mark
Hi Dave
Ok, I will continue searching, will let you know if I come up with anything.
Mark

Mark,
Yes, please continue to search for the FLY-1. I have taken a break from this chassis because it's "so close, yet so far" from working (very frustrating). I will get back to it very soon.

Thanks,

Dave
::Mark,
:: Yes it's an RCA tv. The model number is the name of this thread: 8-T-243. Chassis: KCS-28-1.
::
::Thanks,
::
::Dave
::::Mark,
:::: The number is 73570, which cross references to the FLY-1, says one of my electronic distributors.
:::: I have another flyback transformer I could trade for it but I have no idea if it works. I may have some other items to trade for it, if you prefer.
:::: I have some neon bulbs around here somewhere. If I cannot find one, I will get one and try to see if I can detect any high voltage at all.
::::
::::Thanks,
::::
::::Dave
::::::Gary,
:::::: The odor you are talking about is Ozone. It was thought that Ozone was healthy to breathe. But I think it was found, later, to be a cancer causer. The odor is ozone. There isn't enough high voltage to make any arc longer than about 1mm in length. I can see no arcing in the HV cage when the lights are off.
:::::: Please take a look at May. There is a thread called "KCS-28 aka. 8-T-243 burned resistor". That has all the details about what I've done so far. I have operated the set with the HV cage open.
:::::: Yes, I agree, the flyback transformer could be arcing internally. All I need is a FLY-1 to test my theory. Do you know where I could find one?
::::::
::::::Thanks,
::::::
::::::Dave
:::::::HI Dave,
:::::::
:::::::You may have already tried these suggestions:
:::::::
:::::::The sounds you describe are suspicious. Can you operate the set with the HV cage open? If so, turn off the lights and turn on the set, do you see any arching? Arching will load the flyback. Arching is sometimes not visible but produces a sound and a distinct odor. I used to know what caused the odor, but I forget (getting old I guess).
:::::::
:::::::Have you checked the HV rectifier tube socket for signs of arching (top and bottom)?
:::::::
:::::::Have you checked the filament winding for the HV rectifier? Make sure there is no arching around it.
:::::::
:::::::One test you can do to see if the flyback is working is to TURN OFF the set, remove the cap from the rectifier and position it about an inch or so from the metal HV cage. Turn on the set, you should get a bright arc. DO NOT LET THE SET RUN LIKE THIS FOR MORE THAN A COUPLE OF SECONDS.
:::::::
:::::::Gary
:::::::
:::::::
::::::::Thomas,
:::::::: Everything's hooked up perfectly according to the hook-up diagram and the schematic. I put a neon tester inside the high voltage box. There are 4 neon bulbs inside. None lit up. I guess I have to attach one end of a real neon bulb to the chassis and let the other end hang near the high voltage somewhere.
:::::::: There is still no high voltage.
:::::::: When I turn on the set there are sounds inside the high voltage box for maybe a second, they go away. This is followed by a very quiet ticking sound from inside the box. That continues for as long as the set is on. Do you know where I can find a FLY-1 flyback transformer to try out? My parts distributor doesn't have one.
::::::::
::::::::Thanks,
::::::::
::::::::Dave
::::::::
:::::::::Thomas,
::::::::: I have gone over it so many times it's not funny. I will check it again. I am determined to get high voltage. So I will continue to work on it until I find what's wrong.
:::::::::
:::::::::Thanks,
:::::::::
:::::::::Dave
::::::::::Since we seem to have gone through just about everything else there is aside from changing out the flyback, I can't really think of anything else. However, are you absolutely sure that the flyback is connected correctly? Is it at all possible that someone else who worked on this set misconnected the wires? It just seems strange that you're getting a horizontal sweep signal to the 6BG6, and you're getting B+ to the flyback. Yet nothing generates at the flyback. Any wire put out of place on the flyback would mess up operation. Reversing the two center tapped coils for eachother would certainly keep the coil from generating high voltages.
::::::::::
::::::::::T.
:::::Hi Dave
::::: What I use for an indicator is a neon lamp with the leads snipped off and inserted into an end of a plastic straw, then with the set powered up put it near the Horizontal Output Tube Bellcap, do you see illumination of the bulb, if the Horizontal Output Tube is working you will see it illuminate quite well, thats where I always start when having High Voltage problems, it is very possible like Norm and Thomas have stated the Flyback could very well be the whole problem, do you have a Part Number of the original Flyback Transformer, I might be able to locate one for you?
:::::Mark
:::Hi Dave
::: I will see if i can locate one, by the way is this for an RCA Television set?
:::Mark
:Hi Dave
: Ok, I will continue searching, will let you know if I come up with anything.
:Mark

Hello All,
I installed another flyback transformer in this chassis (one from a 630)and I now have plenty of high voltage. I had a snowy picture for a short time but now after the set is on for a few minutes the vertical deflection goes away. All that's left is a nice bright horizontal line. I started a new thread about the loss of vertical deflection problem.

I made a post yesterday but it ended up in the middle of this thread, but I don't think it was noticed there.That's why I posted this message. Anyway the No High Voltage problem has been solved.

Thanks for everyone's help.

Dave
:Mark,
: Yes, please continue to search for the FLY-1. I have taken a break from this chassis because it's "so close, yet so far" from working (very frustrating). I will get back to it very soon.
:
:Thanks,
:
:
:Dave
:::Mark,
::: Yes it's an RCA tv. The model number is the name of this thread: 8-T-243. Chassis: KCS-28-1.
:::
:::Thanks,
:::
:::Dave
:::::Mark,
::::: The number is 73570, which cross references to the FLY-1, says one of my electronic distributors.
::::: I have another flyback transformer I could trade for it but I have no idea if it works. I may have some other items to trade for it, if you prefer.
::::: I have some neon bulbs around here somewhere. If I cannot find one, I will get one and try to see if I can detect any high voltage at all.
:::::
:::::Thanks,
:::::
:::::Dave
:::::::Gary,
::::::: The odor you are talking about is Ozone. It was thought that Ozone was healthy to breathe. But I think it was found, later, to be a cancer causer. The odor is ozone. There isn't enough high voltage to make any arc longer than about 1mm in length. I can see no arcing in the HV cage when the lights are off.
::::::: Please take a look at May. There is a thread called "KCS-28 aka. 8-T-243 burned resistor". That has all the details about what I've done so far. I have operated the set with the HV cage open.
::::::: Yes, I agree, the flyback transformer could be arcing internally. All I need is a FLY-1 to test my theory. Do you know where I could find one?
:::::::
:::::::Thanks,
:::::::
:::::::Dave
::::::::HI Dave,
::::::::
::::::::You may have already tried these suggestions:
::::::::
::::::::The sounds you describe are suspicious. Can you operate the set with the HV cage open? If so, turn off the lights and turn on the set, do you see any arching? Arching will load the flyback. Arching is sometimes not visible but produces a sound and a distinct odor. I used to know what caused the odor, but I forget (getting old I guess).
::::::::
::::::::Have you checked the HV rectifier tube socket for signs of arching (top and bottom)?
::::::::
::::::::Have you checked the filament winding for the HV rectifier? Make sure there is no arching around it.
::::::::
::::::::One test you can do to see if the flyback is working is to TURN OFF the set, remove the cap from the rectifier and position it about an inch or so from the metal HV cage. Turn on the set, you should get a bright arc. DO NOT LET THE SET RUN LIKE THIS FOR MORE THAN A COUPLE OF SECONDS.
::::::::
::::::::Gary
::::::::
::::::::
:::::::::Thomas,
::::::::: Everything's hooked up perfectly according to the hook-up diagram and the schematic. I put a neon tester inside the high voltage box. There are 4 neon bulbs inside. None lit up. I guess I have to attach one end of a real neon bulb to the chassis and let the other end hang near the high voltage somewhere.
::::::::: There is still no high voltage.
::::::::: When I turn on the set there are sounds inside the high voltage box for maybe a second, they go away. This is followed by a very quiet ticking sound from inside the box. That continues for as long as the set is on. Do you know where I can find a FLY-1 flyback transformer to try out? My parts distributor doesn't have one.
:::::::::
:::::::::Thanks,
:::::::::
:::::::::Dave
:::::::::
::::::::::Thomas,
:::::::::: I have gone over it so many times it's not funny. I will check it again. I am determined to get high voltage. So I will continue to work on it until I find what's wrong.
::::::::::
::::::::::Thanks,
::::::::::
::::::::::Dave
:::::::::::Since we seem to have gone through just about everything else there is aside from changing out the flyback, I can't really think of anything else. However, are you absolutely sure that the flyback is connected correctly? Is it at all possible that someone else who worked on this set misconnected the wires? It just seems strange that you're getting a horizontal sweep signal to the 6BG6, and you're getting B+ to the flyback. Yet nothing generates at the flyback. Any wire put out of place on the flyback would mess up operation. Reversing the two center tapped coils for eachother would certainly keep the coil from generating high voltages.
:::::::::::
:::::::::::T.
::::::Hi Dave
:::::: What I use for an indicator is a neon lamp with the leads snipped off and inserted into an end of a plastic straw, then with the set powered up put it near the Horizontal Output Tube Bellcap, do you see illumination of the bulb, if the Horizontal Output Tube is working you will see it illuminate quite well, thats where I always start when having High Voltage problems, it is very possible like Norm and Thomas have stated the Flyback could very well be the whole problem, do you have a Part Number of the original Flyback Transformer, I might be able to locate one for you?
::::::Mark
::::Hi Dave
:::: I will see if i can locate one, by the way is this for an RCA Television set?
::::Mark
::Hi Dave
:: Ok, I will continue searching, will let you know if I come up with anything.
::Mark