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37-650 Philco problems
5/21/2006 10:06:12 PMplanigan
I posted about a month ago involving this set. its my first rebuild. After replcing the caps and resistors I get no reception on any band. If I put my finger on the 1st Audio grid I get a distinct hum, otherwise the speaker gives off a hum so low that you have to put your ear to it to hear it. I was advised to check RF section so I started by removing each of the three sections one at a time, disconnected each Xfmr from the switches, remove swiches from mounting plate and clean contacts, tightened terminal contacts as needed, aligned contacts for smooth engagement with rotary contactor, checked each Xfmr which (they were pretty much right on the resistance values in schematic), reassembled and rewired section by section. Before each section was installed back in chasis wiring was rechecked first then smooth operation of switch checked then installed. This gave me a period of time between finishing section and checking wiring the checking when installing so, hopefully I wouldn't repeat the same mistake on the second check. After intalling sections in chasis, the control rod was reinserted through all wafer rotors and bolted in. I should point out that the rotors and the control rod (shaft) are keyed as is the mounting bracket for the rod. Barring the use of brute force, the rotor have to align correctly on the rod and the rod orientation has to be correct because of the keyway on the mounting bracket has a tab that fits into a hole on the front of the chasis. After it was all together (I did find one cap that I had miswired and one terminal on the swithch that was seriously out of alignment)I still do not get anything. Voltage now measure: 8mfd cap tip to can 300V, tip to gnd 283V; 6A8 osc plate 135V Osc grid -21 screen 87V plate 266V; 6K7(RF) plate 265V screen 87V sup grid -2.7V; 6K7 (IF) plate 290V screen 87V Sup grid -.5V; 6J5 plate -1.4V grid -.6V; 6K5 plate 224V 6F6 (L from bottom chasis)plate 270V screen 283V grid -16V 6F6 (R) plate 272V screen 257V grid -16V. I have checked the volume control and found it was open which was not the case before, also it appeared the wiring to it was incorrect. I made a serious mistake when I was rebuilding this set, I used the parts picturial to wire in this section rather then the schematic and I'm paying for it now. I put the set over to the side until I can locate a replacement. The pot is a 2meg with a center tap. I have been able to find a 2meg but, of course,no center tap. Any suggestions on the replacement. Also I seem to remember that Robbie Roberts had the same problem with the same set. If he was able to resolve it, I appreciate hearing from him.
5/26/2006 9:02:34 PMmike
Planigan,Go to Plaything's of the Past's website.Under the potentiometer category,they list a 2 meg.pot with a 1 meg center tap.I looked at the schematic for your radio.Yours must be the deluxe big brother to my 37-610.My radio has no r.f. amp tube and only one 6f6 output tube,but it's a good player.Yours should be outstanding!Good luck!
5/27/2006 2:37:45 AMplanigan
Mike, thank you for the info. Spotted the item ($5+)but they require a min $20.00 order. I do need some tubes which I noted they have but want to compare prices. Would you believe that in the interim I purchased a 2 meg pot, opened it and with a brass nail and some auto rear window defogger repair "paint"
got a center tap at one meg on it. As a matter of fact I'm waiting the 24 hrs. for it to dry and then think I will try it in the set. While the tap checks out with an ohm meter at this time I don't know how it will stand up to soldering on the cap and resistor. If it stands up I should write up the proceedure and post it. It was expensive because of the cost of the repair paint (about $7 for .05 fld oz) but I lasts for a year or so and I might be able to use it on the rear window! Also, if you have a need for more tapped pots the material is there.
Pat


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