Here's the schematic: http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel/349/M0040349.pdf
The battery leads were originally marked with small, metal tags that identified each. There were no pins, at least originally.
The voltages that should be used depend upon the tube types. What type tubes are you using?
A battery eliminator, such as the kit sold by AES www.tubesandmore.com or the ARBEIII would work fine.
:I have a question about the battery that was used. If i am remembering right it was a dy cell battery that you put 6 or 8 pins into it? (trying to remember how my dad hooked it up) me question is what kind of power supply would i use today? I have 2 new tubes but the pins are marked weard for the battery.
My dad used a single dry cell battery it was about 2x4inchs and about 8 inchs tall at top center was a plastic circle with a bunch of holes around it that he slid the pins into the holes. the tubes are WD11. Thank you for the schematic.
Those two WD-11 tubes are quite rare and fragile. If they're good, they are probably worth upwards of $100 each, more than the radio itself. I think most collectors would not risk running the set with WD-11s, but rather convert to cheaper tubes. (See the above weblink for suggestions.)
Radiola IIIs often have a bad audio interstage transformer. Need to check primary and secondary resistance. Replacements are available.
I sense that you are just starting out with 1920s battery-powered sets. Considering the value of the WD-11 tubes and your uncertainty with the battery hook-ups, I would urge you to get some hands-on help before going further. Or, possibly getting your feet wet on some simpler sets. One mix-up with the voltages will zap both tubes.