Hello All,
I have been working on this set for over a year. I have replaced all the paper and filter capacitors. I have replaced every possible resistor in the horizontal circuit that has drifted. All replacement capacitors are exactly the same value as the set originally had.
About a year ago when I first replaced all the paper and filter capacitors, it worked fine. I thought I was done and ready to be re-installed in it's cabinet. That's when this very frustrating problem started. Nothing I do will keep the picture from whirling into outer space. I just spent another 6 hours replacing and replacing, with no results today.
If anyone has any ideas or suggestions, please help.

Thanks,

Dave...
By the way: Vertical locks in perfectly.

Don't know if the KCS-47 is at all like the 630-TS. My 630-TS had a jumpy horizontal problem. I couldn't figure out what on earth was wrong. I had replaced all leaky paper condensers. Finally I decided to check the remaining ones for arcing, as this may cause jittering. I made a simple 200 volt DC supply and wired it in series with the remaining condensers and my volt meter. Amazingly a mica condenser was arcing. Then I cracked it open and found that a paper unit lingered inside of the colored dot package which we usually assume to be holding a mica unit. Perhaps something similar is occurring within your set? Also be sure to check for element to element shorts (intermittant or otherwise--jar tube while making each test) for the tubes.

Thomas

Thomas,
Thanks for getting back to me so fast. There's only one mica looking capacitor that may fit that description, and that is attached to the horizontal drive variable capacitor. I don't see how that could throw it off. I don't see how an 82pf capacitor could be paper inside. But the large 500pf (.0005 micro-farads) could. I'll put two .001s in series, give it a try and let you know how it worked out.
Yes, this is very similar to the 630-TS, however they put the speaker transfomer on the speaker instead of in the chassis.

Thanks,

Dave...
:Don't know if the KCS-47 is at all like the 630-TS. My 630-TS had a jumpy horizontal problem. I couldn't figure out what on earth was wrong. I had replaced all leaky paper condensers. Finally I decided to check the remaining ones for arcing, as this may cause jittering. I made a simple 200 volt DC supply and wired it in series with the remaining condensers and my volt meter. Amazingly a mica condenser was arcing. Then I cracked it open and found that a paper unit lingered inside of the colored dot package which we usually assume to be holding a mica unit. Perhaps something similar is occurring within your set? Also be sure to check for element to element shorts (intermittant or otherwise--jar tube while making each test) for the tubes.
:
:Thomas

That made a difference. Now I think I'm up to adjusting the horizontal frequency control so that the lock is in the middle of the horizontal hold range and the lock is not turned all the way in one direction.
I also notice that the horizontal output tube is gassy. It's in the cage with the high voltage rectifier.

Thanks,

Dave...
:Thomas,
: Thanks for getting back to me so fast. There's only one mica looking capacitor that may fit that description, and that is attached to the horizontal drive variable capacitor. I don't see how that could throw it off. I don't see how an 82pf capacitor could be paper inside. But the large 500pf (.0005 micro-farads) could. I'll put two .001s in series, give it a try and let you know how it worked out.
: Yes, this is very similar to the 630-TS, however they put the speaker transfomer on the speaker instead of in the chassis.
:
:Thanks,
:
:Dave...
::Don't know if the KCS-47 is at all like the 630-TS. My 630-TS had a jumpy horizontal problem. I couldn't figure out what on earth was wrong. I had replaced all leaky paper condensers. Finally I decided to check the remaining ones for arcing, as this may cause jittering. I made a simple 200 volt DC supply and wired it in series with the remaining condensers and my volt meter. Amazingly a mica condenser was arcing. Then I cracked it open and found that a paper unit lingered inside of the colored dot package which we usually assume to be holding a mica unit. Perhaps something similar is occurring within your set? Also be sure to check for element to element shorts (intermittant or otherwise--jar tube while making each test) for the tubes.
::
::Thomas

Mine was the 82 pF unit, and yes, it was paper! Amazing, hey? Mine uses a 6BG6G for the horizontal output. It glows blue, like most power amplifier tubes. If your's is glowing blue, it's just fine. Enjoy. If it's glowing purple or pink, replace it.

Regarding paper condensers, every mica looking unit in my set is actually a paper unit (and almost every one is shorted). Weird, but true, just the same. I saved all of the large value black Micamold condensers. They are so beautiful with those really awesome logos. I washed all the wax off of one with mineral spirits and then stripped off its colors. I'm going to make a mold from this. Then I'm going to make replacements using either ceramic or metalized film condensers--whatever will fit in the mold. I'll mold them with J-B Weld. If I can't dye the J-B black with something soluble (perhaps black paint?), I'll paint them with black lacquer, and then fill in the colors with Testors paints.

Thomas

If you ever do get a jumpy picture, test the 82 pF unit with a high voltage (200 volt) power supply. If it is arcing, replace it and then crack it open with a razor blade. It'd be interesting to know whether your's is paper or not, too. If you crack it open well, you can even replace it with a small mica or ceramic unit, and then glue the cracked open shell over the new mica or ceramic unit.

Thomas

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Horizontal sync ???? Are you knowledgeable as to just how touchy that chassis wave shaping coil and circuit can be if its not aligned properly?
Here are some references to the circuit in general AND Sir Thomas’possible cap referenced, HOWEVER they are back in the AFC circuitry. Dave, you seem to be at the hoz osc to hoz output grid coupling cap. That chassis is very touchy from stone cold start up to tube warm up and associated component warm up and a drift into what is called a “Christmas tree” center of the screen display hysterics if the hoz is not almost “Zeeeero-beat’ aligned.
The second ref is giving both field adjustmet and the precise scope method.
Ref 1 thumbmnail schema:

http://img480.imageshack.us/img480/7651/kaycee475ql.jpg

Ref 2 how to “do-it-to-it” alignment instructions.

http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/2947/kcs47hozwaveshapingalignment4y.jpg

That .01 ufd resonating capacitor across the waveshaping coil attains very high P/P voltage across it. The 180 Pf S- mica in the osc feedback loop is probably ok.

73’s de Edd

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
:If you ever do get a jumpy picture, test the 82 pF unit with a high voltage (200 volt) power supply. If it is arcing, replace it and then crack it open with a razor blade. It'd be interesting to know whether your's is paper or not, too. If you crack it open well, you can even replace it with a small mica or ceramic unit, and then glue the cracked open shell over the new mica or ceramic unit.
:
:Thomas

Edd, and every one else,
Thanks to everyone for your help. This was tracked down to C92 on the schematic. I had already replaced C91 which comes from the sync tube, however from there, there is another mica capacitor C92, which is in series with C91 for the Horizontal lock part of the circuit. I couldn't get the horizontal hold to lock. Replacing that capacitor, enabled the locking trimmer capacitor to work normally again.

I guess this is like the 630-TS.

So thanks very much to all,

Dave...
:
:~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
:Horizontal sync ???? Are you knowledgeable as to just how touchy that chassis wave shaping coil and circuit can be if its not aligned properly?
:Here are some references to the circuit in general AND Sir Thomas’possible cap referenced, HOWEVER they are back in the AFC circuitry. Dave, you seem to be at the hoz osc to hoz output grid coupling cap. That chassis is very touchy from stone cold start up to tube warm up and associated component warm up and a drift into what is called a “Christmas tree” center of the screen display hysterics if the hoz is not almost “Zeeeero-beat’ aligned.
:The second ref is giving both field adjustmet and the precise scope method.
:Ref 1 thumbmnail schema:
:
:http://img480.imageshack.us/img480/7651/kaycee475ql.jpg
:
:Ref 2 how to “do-it-to-it” alignment instructions.
:
:http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/2947/kcs47hozwaveshapingalignment4y.jpg
:
:That .01 ufd resonating capacitor across the waveshaping coil attains very high P/P voltage across it. The 180 Pf S- mica in the osc feedback loop is probably ok.
:
:73’s de Edd
:
:~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
::If you ever do get a jumpy picture, test the 82 pF unit with a high voltage (200 volt) power supply. If it is arcing, replace it and then crack it open with a razor blade. It'd be interesting to know whether your's is paper or not, too. If you crack it open well, you can even replace it with a small mica or ceramic unit, and then glue the cracked open shell over the new mica or ceramic unit.
::
::Thomas

Thomas,
How do you crack open the capacitor with a razor blade? I have been trying but all I can do is scratch it.

Thanks,

Dave...
:If you ever do get a jumpy picture, test the 82 pF unit with a high voltage (200 volt) power supply. If it is arcing, replace it and then crack it open with a razor blade. It'd be interesting to know whether your's is paper or not, too. If you crack it open well, you can even replace it with a small mica or ceramic unit, and then glue the cracked open shell over the new mica or ceramic unit.
:
:Thomas

If you get a sharp fresh razor, you can place it along the seam. Otherwise, if you're not able to do this, crush it in a pliers or vice grips, or smash it with a hammer. If you wish to make a mold from it, do so before smashing it.

Thomas

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Might I offer two other options:
Still concentrating on the mold seam/flash, If you ever was/are a modeler use a Zona/Exacto micro saw. If you have a Dremel tool/motor use either its micro rotary saw blade or put a cut off wheen in the chuck and make a surgically precise groove circling around with the seam and then it can be cleaved like a diamond.

73's de Edd
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
:If you get a sharp fresh razor, you can place it along the seam. Otherwise, if you're not able to do this, crush it in a pliers or vice grips, or smash it with a hammer. If you wish to make a mold from it, do so before smashing it.
:
:Thomas

Sounds like a great idea. However, I was only suggesting a clean break because I have been able to do this on occasion. If you only want to see what's inside, crushing it with a hammer or pliers is effective. On the other hand, if you do in fact want to save the shell for gluing around a modern component, the Dremel tool is the way to go, as Edd suggested. Great idea. If you wish to make a mold of the old shell for replication purposes, I suggest doing this prior to any breaking or incisions.

T.

:
:~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
:Might I offer two other options:
:Still concentrating on the mold seam/flash, If you ever was/are a modeler use a Zona/Exacto micro saw. If you have a Dremel tool/motor use either its micro rotary saw blade or put a cut off wheen in the chuck and make a surgically precise groove circling around with the seam and then it can be cleaved like a diamond.
:
:73's de Edd
:~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
::If you get a sharp fresh razor, you can place it along the seam. Otherwise, if you're not able to do this, crush it in a pliers or vice grips, or smash it with a hammer. If you wish to make a mold from it, do so before smashing it.
::
::Thomas

Thomas,
I'm working on this chassis again. It has a different problem. I can't find the schematic anymore. Do you have a copy of it?

Thanks,

Dave
:Sounds like a great idea. However, I was only suggesting a clean break because I have been able to do this on occasion. If you only want to see what's inside, crushing it with a hammer or pliers is effective. On the other hand, if you do in fact want to save the shell for gluing around a modern component, the Dremel tool is the way to go, as Edd suggested. Great idea. If you wish to make a mold of the old shell for replication purposes, I suggest doing this prior to any breaking or incisions.
:
:T.
:
::
::~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
::Might I offer two other options:
::Still concentrating on the mold seam/flash, If you ever was/are a modeler use a Zona/Exacto micro saw. If you have a Dremel tool/motor use either its micro rotary saw blade or put a cut off wheen in the chuck and make a surgically precise groove circling around with the seam and then it can be cleaved like a diamond.
::
::73's de Edd
::~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
:::If you get a sharp fresh razor, you can place it along the seam. Otherwise, if you're not able to do this, crush it in a pliers or vice grips, or smash it with a hammer. If you wish to make a mold from it, do so before smashing it.
:::
:::Thomas