Anyway, the reason why your radio is dead is due to something other than your replacing that resistor. Either the pilot lamp shut filament within the 35Z5 opened up, or a connection to this filament opened up, or you may have a short in the power supply after the rectifier. This would have blow the shunt filament and pilot light, both of which supply both the filament string and the B circuit.
If you have replaced all capacitors, connect your multi-meter's plus lead to the cathode (pin 8) of the 35Z5. Connect the negative lead to B-. This would be the cathode of the 12SQ7 (pin 3) or any other point at this reference (lots of things connect here). Use the X10,000 resistance scale (or the most sensitive one) of your meter. The needle should swing up towards zero and then slowly fall back down due to the charging up of the electrolytics. It should approach infinity. If it doesn't fall all the way down, there is leakage in the B circuit. If it stays towards zero, change meter settings. If you go all the way down to the X1 setting and the resistance is still low, then there's a heavy short in the B circuit, which is probably what caused your pilot lamp to blow. It probably also blew the shunt filament in your 35Z5, which is why your tubes won't light. Find the short and mend it. Then replace the 35Z5 and the pilot lamp. If no short can be found, assume that the shunt filament in the 35Z5 opened up on its own, or that its associated wiring is faulty and opened up (perhaps a dirty pin connection or poor solder joint at one of the pins--the shunt uses pins 2 and 3).
If you don't have a spare 35Z5 on hand and wish to continue listening to the radio even before a replacement can be obtained, temporarily shunt a 47 ohm 2 watt resistor across pins 2 and 3 of the 35Z5. Replace the pilot lamp with a new #47 bulb. Both of these items may be found at Radio Shack. When you replace the 35Z5, be sure to remove the 47 ohm resistor. If you wish to "use up" the old 35Z5, continue using it with the resistor until it becomes weak (you may get old and die before this happens). Just be sure that whenever you replace the tube that you remove the 47 ohm resistor. Leaving it in will leave you with a dim pilot lamp.
In either case, whether you have replaced the 35Z5 or are using it with a 47 ohm resistor, NEVER EVER run the radio without its pilot lamp in place. Not having the pilot lamp across the shunt filament (or the 47 ohm resistor) allows too much current to flow through the shunt filament. This will severely shorten its life. Also, though you can effectively operate the radio in the following way, never shunt a wire across pins 2 and 3. Yes, you can use the radio this way, even though your pilot lamp won't light, but the pilot lamp and shunt filament within the 35Z5 act as a sort of fuse. They'll blow if something goes wrong in the supply. I suppose you could shunt across pins 2 and 3 with a .25 ampere fuse (also found at Radio Shack). This will readily blow if a short occurs within the radio. Your pilot lamp will not light because there is no voltage drop across the fuse.
Thomas
Thomas
Thomas
Examine how the pilot lamp is connected to the 35Z5 recitifier. The tube's heater is tapped for the pilot lamp. If just a portion of the heater opens, then the lamp will burn out and the heater string will go dead.
Check for continuity between pins 2 and 7 and between 2 and 3.
I can't explain why properly replacing R3 would have anything to do with this, besides coincidence.
I'm not sure what you mean by this statement: "All the AC filament string voltages are measuring line voltage." Measure ACROSS the heater pins of each tube's socket. If one tube is burned out, then you should measure line AC voltage across that one tube; you should measure zero voltage across the heaters of the other tubes. I can't imagine how 120V could get across the heater of EVERY tube, but if it did, certainly all tubes would be burned out in an instant.
:This Detrola is the one with 35Z5 50L6 12SA7 12Sk7 12SQ7 lineup. I was working on it today and had it on...it was playing but had distortion, so I was chasing down bad resistors (it has already been recapped). I turned off the power (iso and variac), found R3 to be way high in value, so I replaced it with a 220,000 ohm resistor. Flipped the power on and the pilot lamp went out and the tubes won't light. I tested all the tubes (all good), checked the field coil (333 ohms) and started measuring voltages. All the AC filament string voltages are measuring line voltage. So why wont the tubes light? (I apologize for always asking for advice and never giving any...but that's because I have not found any posts that I can help with so far...just a schematic here of there...most of you know SO MUCH it's amazing...maybe one day I'll be able to help also. Thanks for always being there for us rookies!!!!
Pull the 35Z5, and tell us the resistance you measure between pins 1 & 7 and between pins 2 & 3. Then pull each of the other tubes and measure the resistance between the two pins labeled "H" on the schematic. Write down the resistances and report here.
Also, with the radio unplugged, measure the reistance across the power switch (with the switch in the ON position).
Do all this very methodically and write down your results.
I noticed your statement: "Seems like no DC is getting into the radio..." If the tube filaments don't light, then the rectifier won't work, and there can be no DC. We need to get your filaments to light first.
Pull the 35Z5, and tell us the resistance you measure between pins 1 & 7 and between pins 2 & 3. Then pull each of the other tubes and measure the resistance between the two pins labeled "H" on the schematic. Write down the resistances and report here.
Also, with the radio unplugged, measure the reistance across the power switch (with the switch in the ON position).
Do all this very methodically and write down your results.
I noticed your statement: "Seems like no DC is getting into the radio..." If the tube filaments don't light, then the rectifier won't work, and there can be no DC. We need to get your filaments to light first.
:Stan, I'm having trouble reconciling your findings with the schematic.
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:Pull the 35Z5, and tell us the resistance you measure between pins 1 & 7 and between pins 2 & 3. Then pull each of the other tubes and measure the resistance between the two pins labeled "H" on the schematic. Write down the resistances and report here.
:
:Also, with the radio unplugged, measure the reistance across the power switch (with the switch in the ON position).
:
:Do all this very methodically and write down your results.
:
:I noticed your statement: "Seems like no DC is getting into the radio..." If the tube filaments don't light, then the rectifier won't work, and there can be no DC. We need to get your filaments to light first.
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Measuring across the switch, I get infinite both on and off, so something is wrong. I checked another switch and got an infinite reading in off and a very low reading in on, as I would expect. Call me a rocket scientist, but I notice that the heater resistances look like the voltage reading should look. That is probably not a coincidence, right? Thanks for helping me!
:Sorry, for the 35Z5 I misspoke. Check the resistance between Pins 2 & 7 and between Pins 2 & 3.
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::Stan, I'm having trouble reconciling your findings with the schematic.
::
::Pull the 35Z5, and tell us the resistance you measure between pins 1 & 7 and between pins 2 & 3. Then pull each of the other tubes and measure the resistance between the two pins labeled "H" on the schematic. Write down the resistances and report here.
::
::Also, with the radio unplugged, measure the reistance across the power switch (with the switch in the ON position).
::
::Do all this very methodically and write down your results.
::
::I noticed your statement: "Seems like no DC is getting into the radio..." If the tube filaments don't light, then the rectifier won't work, and there can be no DC. We need to get your filaments to light first.
::
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You can try squirting some contact cleaner or WD-40 into the contacts and maybe the switch will start working. Or, you can temporarily jumper around the switch until you come up with a permanent fix or replacement. That would enable you to keep working on your radio.
It appears that the power switch and the 500K volume control are on the same shaft? RadioDaze R-SPA-500K ($1.69)audio pot should work along with S-POT1 ($0.79), which is a power switch that mounts on the rear of the pot. The pot has a 2" shaft, which you can cut shorter with a hack saw.
THomas
:Sorry, sounded like you said that the pilot light burned out. Guess it just went out with the tubes like you said. Since it went out, it does sound like the switch could be saved with WD-40, as Doug said. I suggest that before you replace the control (should WD-40 not cure the problem), you open it and examine the switch. The switch can be removed from the back of the control after the main shell is removed from the control--the switch is attached to this shell from inside on most controls. On others it is riveted on. With these, gently drill out (or file off) the rivets. Then remove the switch. For re-assembly, place switch over rivets and solder in place. If a spring or lever has fallen out of place, often things can be straightened out and the switch can be saved. Improvise.
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:THomas