This set has a loop antenna, which is an integral part of the RF tuning ckt. Make sure that it is all there and that there is continuity between both ends of the loop. You can do this by measuring the resistance across the section of C400 that the loop is across.
If the loop is OK, check the voltages against those shown on the schematic: http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel/614/M0013614.pdf
:Hello, I have a 48-1262 that I just recaped, it did not work when I first got it. I completely recaped all the paper capacitors and the electroylics, with the same value. I had to go to a slightly higher mfd in the electrolic caps, but within 20% of value. I have checked the tubes and they are good. I powered it up and no pops or smoking...good so far. I get sound from the speaker, but I can not pick up any stations. I have tried all diffrent antenna variations including the original hook-up...I only get a squealing noise when I hit where a station should be. There is no loud hum or noise in between stations. I have other radios and they get recption no problem, so I know it is not the radio location. What do I do now? I double checked the caps against the schematic and they are correct, I also have a spare chassis that is non-working and all the connections line-up as should be. The only thing that I changed is there were two caps that had a coil wire trap wraped around them and according to the philco service tip the 37A they can be eliminated with no effect. These were I-F bypass capacitors.
:Thanks
:David
In order to tune in a station, you need to adjust the tuner to resonate at the particular freq you want to receive. Many sets have an antenna coil (separate from the antenna) - and the secondary of the antenna coil is in parallel with the tuning cap. You adjust the tuner until the L-C ckt is in resonance at the desired freq.
YOUR SET DOES NOT HAVE AN ANTENNA COIL. The antenna loop does double duty - as both the antenna and the antenna coil. The inductance of the loop, in parallel with the tuning cap, forms the resonant ckt. Without a loop of the proper inductance, your whole front-end RF section becomes untunable.
Many radios used a 365-pF broadcast tuning cap, but I can't find the value of yours on the schematic. If you have a cap tester, you can measure it, fully meshed, with the tuner disconnected. Anyway, the tuner's capacitance determines the req'd inductance of the loop.
If your tuner is indeed 365pF, then you can probably scavange an antenna loop out of most any AA5 junker radio and make it work.
Now, what if your tuner isn't 365pF? You can figure out the req'd inductance of the loop by consulting "Prof. Coyle": http://www.crystalradio.net/professorcoyle/professorcoylespiderweb.shtml
You'll need to put in the tuner capacitance plus 33pF (the value of the shunt cap across the tuner shown on the schematic). For example, for 365 + 33 = 398pF, the req'd inductance to tune 560kHz is 200uH. On Prof. Coyle's site, you can come up with the physical configuration of a 200uH spiderweb coil.
Another approach would be to fashion a coil on a spiderform with, say, 25 turns. If the set gets only stations at the upper end of the BC spectrum, then you need more turns, and vice versa.
But, yes, the first order of business is getting a loop antenna installed - and then find out what additional troubleshooting might be involved.
:Hello, I have a 48-1262 that I just recaped, it did not work when I first got it. I completely recaped all the paper capacitors and the electroylics, with the same value. I had to go to a slightly higher mfd in the electrolic caps, but within 20% of value. I have checked the tubes and they are good. I powered it up and no pops or smoking...good so far. I get sound from the speaker, but I can not pick up any stations. I have tried all diffrent antenna variations including the original hook-up...I only get a squealing noise when I hit where a station should be. There is no loud hum or noise in between stations. I have other radios and they get recption no problem, so I know it is not the radio location. What do I do now? I double checked the caps against the schematic and they are correct, I also have a spare chassis that is non-working and all the connections line-up as should be. The only thing that I changed is there were two caps that had a coil wire trap wraped around them and according to the philco service tip the 37A they can be eliminated with no effect. These were I-F bypass capacitors.
:Thanks
:David
David: Also check the grid voltage on your oscillator tube to be sure it's within spec. If it's not, check the grid resistor value since it may have drifted much higher. It's possible that you're not getting oscillation.
Steve