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ZENITH 10-S-599 SCHEMATIC
2/15/2006 10:04:18 AMDavid
Hello, I have searched this site, but no luck. It is a shortwve radio/phonograph. Tube line up 6J5G 6J5G 6V6G 6V6G 6K7G 6X5G 6X5G 6A8G 6F5G. It plays and looks great, but would like to recap it before my luck runs out, although all the original wax/paper capacitors look like new.
Thanks
David
2/15/2006 11:41:03 AMThomas Dermody
Is the 10-S-590 at all similar? The 590 has an additional tube (the loktal one), though you only listed nine tubes, and your model is a ten tube model as well (10-S-590). The only thing the schematic lacks is a phonograph hook-up. The 699 schematic shows how the phonograph is hooked up at the bottom of the page. This may or may not be similar to your hook-up. Check every component in your radio against the schematic, and check all connections, check the selector switch lay-out, etc. If you can't find a schematic here, try your library. Check the Riders manuals, if they have them.

You should be able to replace all condensers without a schematic, as Zenith usually marked the values right on the containers. Metalized film condensers sold at such places as www.radiodaze.com and www.tubesandmore.com fit nicely within the cardboard "Zenith" condenser tubes. I recommend that you re-stuff the old units. The paper tubes are attractive, and will keep the underside of your chassis attractive.

Thomas

2/16/2006 12:23:55 AMDavid
Thanks, I have ordered the orange drop capacitors, they kind of match the orange color of the zenit capacitors. I want it to work good, but stuffing the old ones would be nice. I will save them and maybe some rainy day I will do that.
2/16/2006 7:38:57 AMThomas Dermody
You need yellow metalized film condensers in order to re-stuff the old ones. You can't use orange drops. They're too big. Personally I'd never order orange drops for any radio. They have no use in antique radios. They don't fit inside of any old condenser packages.

Thomas

2/16/2006 10:04:37 AMDavid
Other than not being able to re-stuff the orange ones they seemed like really good capaciors. I am using the SBE Type PS "Orange Drop" Capacitors. They are polyster film, 600V, +/- 10% tolerance. Radial leads. As for the Electrolytic, I am using the Axile lead high quality low leakage tubular electrolytic capacitors, rated for 85C operation. Tolerance -20%, +50%. As long as the capacitors function good and that I have a good sound quality and dependablity is what I want. I understand wanting to see the old Capacitors for some, but once I replace my Capacitors, I will rarely be looking under the chassis. The plan is to not have to open the radio up again to fix it for a long time. Now when it comes to the can type electrolyic capacitors I will try and re-stuff these as not to change the apperance of the top of the chassis.
Thanks
David
2/16/2006 2:37:13 PMThomas Dermody
Orange drop capacitors are very good capacitors. This is an antique radio you are dealing with, though. Many people now do not understand what they are dealing with because there are still too many old radios around. People are in an impetuous hurry to get their radios running, instead of wanting to take time to make the radio a masterpiece. Years from now people will shudder at the poor restoration jobs many have performed. These are antiques, and they don't grow on trees. They are getting rarrer and rarrer. If you like that radio, put forth the extra effort to keep it looking like an antique and not like some hybrid. If you cannot put forth this extra effort, you might as well rip out the chassis and throw in a modern IC chip unit inside of the old cabinet. You wouldn't strip the original finish off of a 1700s piece of furniture and then coat it with poly, would you? Re-stuff the condensers. You will be pleased with the appearance, and people years from now who inherit the radio will be pleased with your restoration. If you are terribly anxious to have your radio running, which I think it already does, save the old capacitors and re-stuff them at a later time. I strongly recommend that you re-stuff them now, though.

Thomas

2/16/2006 9:28:39 PMDavid
OUCH!!!!! As far as restoring radios, I keep everything as original as possible...from looking at the outside to the TOP of the chassis you would think it was straight from the factory. By not stuffing the caps does not detrack from the overal appearence and beauty of these radios. By taking and putting the wax around a good new capacitor seems silly to me, I do not know how many chassis I have uncovered to find this wax all over the place from a bad capacitor, and it is a pain to clean up...so why restuff these when it looks and sounds good. And as far as the quality of the job of recapping, it looks dam good and is impressive to see them not melted and destorted. If you ever were to get one of my radios you would be pleased in the care and the extent of the near perfect restoration. Most of mine take weeks to completly get perfect...I am not in hurry...nor do I feel it is nesscicary to restuff.
Thanks
David
2/17/2006 12:02:28 AMThomas Dermody
Don't take offense. It's just that when you turn the chassis upside down and you see modern plastic wires and components everywhere, it looks bad. When someone takes the time to rewire with new cloth wire, it looks so beautiful. Rubber insulation is currently not available unfortunately/fortunately, depending upon the way you look at it, so if you must authentically re-wire a rubber wired set, cloth would probably be a fine choice. Also, when you see all of those beautiful Zenith logos on all of the condensers, it just makes the whole thing flow together in an artistic sense. I even take the time to mold new mica units with those colored dots. Micamold and Aerovox have some of the most stunning logos. Their logos come from a time when art form and functionality worked hand in hand. Modern components may work well, but no craftsman ever took the time to make attractive casings for them. If you ever look at old parts, auto engines, home furnaces, boilers, old sinks, old water pipes and valves, old radiators, etc., you will notice that someone with an artful mind crafted them into more than just a functional piece. They have become something of beauty, which should be appreciated. The bevled edges and other markings weren't put there by accident. They come from an industrial time when people were fascinated with these new electrical and mechanical wonders. The decorative touches added to these devices made them into even more wonderful and futuristic things than they already were. This beauty is quickly being lost just like the buildings here in downtown Milwaukee which have their cornices torn off because the millionaires who own them would rather pocket the money that it would take to restore the cornice. These people are filthy rich and can afford to restore the cornices, but they don't. Many of them have nightclubs in those buildings, which, in themselves, trash the buildings. Please do not take this as my saying that you are chincing on your radios to keep money for yourself. Surely restuffing condensers costs little if anything. All I am saying is that beautiful things are being lost when you throw away the old condensers. People do not see the underside of the chassis often, but when they do, they will marvel at all of the interesting old parts. I don't know of anyone who I personally know who doesn't marvel at all of the old parts and logos found under a radio chassis.

Regarding wax melting out, you can use other items like brown wood filler putty. This can be easily removed in the event of a capacitor failure, though metalized film capacitors rarely fail. They will probably far outlast the original paper units.

Thomas



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