Hello I am thinking about getting another tube tester, but not sure what to get since I have seen the military tv-7, hickoks, b and k's. I have heard that some are better than others, but what is a good one?

Hi Sean

Depends on what type tubes you are testing and cost willing to pay for a tester. TV7 is a military version of Hickok. These are considered transconductance testers and usually cost more. Do you use older tubes? B&K's that I've seen don't have older sockets.

No tube tester is perfect. They test under one specific set of conditions which may not even be to tube specifications. Best final test is the actual application, radio or TV.

Norm

:Hello I am thinking about getting another tube tester, but not sure what to get since I have seen the military tv-7, hickoks, b and k's. I have heard that some are better than others, but what is a good one?

:Hello, well I like 20's 30's and maybe 40s radios, so I want a good or at least a variety of testers
:Hi Sean
:
: Depends on what type tubes you are testing and cost willing to pay for a tester. TV7 is a military version of Hickok. These are considered transconductance testers and usually cost more. Do you use older tubes? B&K's that I've seen don't have older sockets.
:
: No tube tester is perfect. They test under one specific set of conditions which may not even be to tube specifications. Best final test is the actual application, radio or TV.
:
:Norm
:
::Hello I am thinking about getting another tube tester, but not sure what to get since I have seen the military tv-7, hickoks, b and k's. I have heard that some are better than others, but what is a good one?

:Hello, again, a local tv repair man has old testers and tubes for sale and I am debating on how much to to into debt......lol ..........one tester that looks nice is a conair tester about 1960s
::Hello, well I like 20's 30's and maybe 40s radios, so I want a good or at least a variety of testers
::Hi Sean
::
:: Depends on what type tubes you are testing and cost willing to pay for a tester. TV7 is a military version of Hickok. These are considered transconductance testers and usually cost more. Do you use older tubes? B&K's that I've seen don't have older sockets.
::
:: No tube tester is perfect. They test under one specific set of conditions which may not even be to tube specifications. Best final test is the actual application, radio or TV.
::
::Norm
::
:::Hello I am thinking about getting another tube tester, but not sure what to get since I have seen the military tv-7, hickoks, b and k's. I have heard that some are better than others, but what is a good one?

:do I need to get a transductance tester?
::Hello, again, a local tv repair man has old testers and tubes for sale and I am debating on how much to to into debt......lol ..........one tester that looks nice is a conair tester about 1960s
:::Hello, well I like 20's 30's and maybe 40s radios, so I want a good or at least a variety of testers
:::Hi Sean
:::
::: Depends on what type tubes you are testing and cost willing to pay for a tester. TV7 is a military version of Hickok. These are considered transconductance testers and usually cost more. Do you use older tubes? B&K's that I've seen don't have older sockets.
:::
::: No tube tester is perfect. They test under one specific set of conditions which may not even be to tube specifications. Best final test is the actual application, radio or TV.
:::
:::Norm
:::
::::Hello I am thinking about getting another tube tester, but not sure what to get since I have seen the military tv-7, hickoks, b and k's. I have heard that some are better than others, but what is a good one?

:oops actually it is a conar not conair
::do I need to get a transductance tester?
:::Hello, again, a local tv repair man has old testers and tubes for sale and I am debating on how much to to into debt......lol ..........one tester that looks nice is a conair tester about 1960s
::::Hello, well I like 20's 30's and maybe 40s radios, so I want a good or at least a variety of testers
::::Hi Sean
::::
:::: Depends on what type tubes you are testing and cost willing to pay for a tester. TV7 is a military version of Hickok. These are considered transconductance testers and usually cost more. Do you use older tubes? B&K's that I've seen don't have older sockets.
::::
:::: No tube tester is perfect. They test under one specific set of conditions which may not even be to tube specifications. Best final test is the actual application, radio or TV.
::::
::::Norm
::::
:::::Hello I am thinking about getting another tube tester, but not sure what to get since I have seen the military tv-7, hickoks, b and k's. I have heard that some are better than others, but what is a good one?

If you like radios from the 1930s and 1940s, you'll want a tester with standard sockets (4, 5, 6, and 7 pin sockets) as well as octal and loktal and 7 and 9 pin miniature. Ideally the chart should have the old tubes listed: 30, 41, 42, 43, 80, 71, 50, 57, and all those others.

You do not need a transconductance tester, though some find this a plus. As Norm said, the final test is how the tube works in the radio. Most testers will show obvious falts like if the tube is weak, if it has internal shorts, etc. Some will show gas. Tubes which are loaded with a lot of voltage will show gas in the radio anyway--they'll glow purple (not blue).

Since I own this tester, I always recommend it. The EICO 625 tester is very nice. I prefer the earlier version with the blue panel. The roll chart may not contain the earlier tubes, but the early tube settings are available here. This tester is very common, and you can even find it on eBay for a decent price. Try to get one with a lid and a carrying handle.

With all testers including the one I recommended, you should test all of the resistors for drifting and test condensers for leakage. Replace any condensers with any leakage, and replace resistors with ANY drifting (like more than 5%). Since you want your readings to be fairly accurate on a tester, you want accurate resistors. They must be far more accurate than you would tolerate in a radio or amplifier.

Thomas

:HELLO I have the eico 625 tester as well as a tripplet 3413 tester. The 625 tester I havent started to use yet........and I would imagine there is data on it......will have to get one of the roll charts to work. Mine is the blue outlined panel one, and it is in a wood case along with the volt ohm eico meter
:If you like radios from the 1930s and 1940s, you'll want a tester with standard sockets (4, 5, 6, and 7 pin sockets) as well as octal and loktal and 7 and 9 pin miniature. Ideally the chart should have the old tubes listed: 30, 41, 42, 43, 80, 71, 50, 57, and all those others.
:
:You do not need a transconductance tester, though some find this a plus. As Norm said, the final test is how the tube works in the radio. Most testers will show obvious falts like if the tube is weak, if it has internal shorts, etc. Some will show gas. Tubes which are loaded with a lot of voltage will show gas in the radio anyway--they'll glow purple (not blue).
:
:Since I own this tester, I always recommend it. The EICO 625 tester is very nice. I prefer the earlier version with the blue panel. The roll chart may not contain the earlier tubes, but the early tube settings are available here. This tester is very common, and you can even find it on eBay for a decent price. Try to get one with a lid and a carrying handle.
:
:With all testers including the one I recommended, you should test all of the resistors for drifting and test condensers for leakage. Replace any condensers with any leakage, and replace resistors with ANY drifting (like more than 5%). Since you want your readings to be fairly accurate on a tester, you want accurate resistors. They must be far more accurate than you would tolerate in a radio or amplifier.
:
:Thomas

Yes I just tested the tester and it does work, but as you said it does not contain the earlier tubes, as well as the military numbered versions of the same tubes like 77, 78. so where is this updated chart, and could I get a roll chart for it or do I just have to make pages like the drug store charts
:If you like radios from the 1930s and 1940s, you'll want a tester with standard sockets (4, 5, 6, and 7 pin sockets) as well as octal and loktal and 7 and 9 pin miniature. Ideally the chart should have the old tubes listed: 30, 41, 42, 43, 80, 71, 50, 57, and all those others.
:
:You do not need a transconductance tester, though some find this a plus. As Norm said, the final test is how the tube works in the radio. Most testers will show obvious falts like if the tube is weak, if it has internal shorts, etc. Some will show gas. Tubes which are loaded with a lot of voltage will show gas in the radio anyway--they'll glow purple (not blue).
:
:Since I own this tester, I always recommend it. The EICO 625 tester is very nice. I prefer the earlier version with the blue panel. The roll chart may not contain the earlier tubes, but the early tube settings are available here. This tester is very common, and you can even find it on eBay for a decent price. Try to get one with a lid and a carrying handle.
:
:With all testers including the one I recommended, you should test all of the resistors for drifting and test condensers for leakage. Replace any condensers with any leakage, and replace resistors with ANY drifting (like more than 5%). Since you want your readings to be fairly accurate on a tester, you want accurate resistors. They must be far more accurate than you would tolerate in a radio or amplifier.
:
:Thomas

:Ok I just found the tube chart update, but the link only yields"the page cannot be displayed"
:Yes I just tested the tester and it does work, but as you said it does not contain the earlier tubes, as well as the military numbered versions of the same tubes like 77, 78. so where is this updated chart, and could I get a roll chart for it or do I just have to make pages like the drug store charts
::If you like radios from the 1930s and 1940s, you'll want a tester with standard sockets (4, 5, 6, and 7 pin sockets) as well as octal and loktal and 7 and 9 pin miniature. Ideally the chart should have the old tubes listed: 30, 41, 42, 43, 80, 71, 50, 57, and all those others.
::
::You do not need a transconductance tester, though some find this a plus. As Norm said, the final test is how the tube works in the radio. Most testers will show obvious falts like if the tube is weak, if it has internal shorts, etc. Some will show gas. Tubes which are loaded with a lot of voltage will show gas in the radio anyway--they'll glow purple (not blue).
::
::Since I own this tester, I always recommend it. The EICO 625 tester is very nice. I prefer the earlier version with the blue panel. The roll chart may not contain the earlier tubes, but the early tube settings are available here. This tester is very common, and you can even find it on eBay for a decent price. Try to get one with a lid and a carrying handle.
::
::With all testers including the one I recommended, you should test all of the resistors for drifting and test condensers for leakage. Replace any condensers with any leakage, and replace resistors with ANY drifting (like more than 5%). Since you want your readings to be fairly accurate on a tester, you want accurate resistors. They must be far more accurate than you would tolerate in a radio or amplifier.
::
::Thomas

Someone gave a link to me a while back. I'll see if I can either find the pages or the link. Check the resistors on the Selector switch. Disconnect one wire of each (one at a time) and check to see that they haven't drifted. If any have drifted, replace them. Also, my selector switch started to fall apart years ago, and it started arcing and smoking. Terrible things happened. If this ever happens to you, try to get a 5 position porcelain non-shorting switch. That's what I used and I'm quite satisfied. It should have I think two sections. Each section should have 6 terminals. One terminal rides on the rotating switch, and the remaining 5 terminals make contact with the switch wiper as it passes by for the 5 positions.

If you can find a very small 6 or 12 volt bulb, you can put this inside the meter with very thin wires (like #30 enameled wire...put spaghetti on the wire which is exposed outside the meter). Stash the bulb under the part where the zero adjuster is, and keep all wires, etc, away from the meter movement. Connect to the appropriate filament tap (for the correct voltage). This makes the meter look rather attractive.

Thomas

:Hello, I am not exactly sure which switch you are talking about on the tube tester. and what the bulb modification does. So far the tube tester appears to work although I did test a 77 tube and on the tripplet, it measured 90 percent and on the eico, it measured just above the yellow, ...big difference so one or both testers are not accurate.........so are you saying that the selector switchs are known to go bad and self destruct?.........If so then I need more info on what kind of switch to get and where
:Someone gave a link to me a while back. I'll see if I can either find the pages or the link. Check the resistors on the Selector switch. Disconnect one wire of each (one at a time) and check to see that they haven't drifted. If any have drifted, replace them. Also, my selector switch started to fall apart years ago, and it started arcing and smoking. Terrible things happened. If this ever happens to you, try to get a 5 position porcelain non-shorting switch. That's what I used and I'm quite satisfied. It should have I think two sections. Each section should have 6 terminals. One terminal rides on the rotating switch, and the remaining 5 terminals make contact with the switch wiper as it passes by for the 5 positions.
:
:If you can find a very small 6 or 12 volt bulb, you can put this inside the meter with very thin wires (like #30 enameled wire...put spaghetti on the wire which is exposed outside the meter). Stash the bulb under the part where the zero adjuster is, and keep all wires, etc, away from the meter movement. Connect to the appropriate filament tap (for the correct voltage). This makes the meter look rather attractive.
:
:Thomas

My selector switch fell apart internally. I don't know if this happens on a regular basis. There are still a lot of EICO 625 testers in use, and noone seems to complain about the Selector switch. The switch I am talking about, the Selector switch, is plainly marked SELECTOR above the knob. The other three switches are marked FILAMENT, SHUNT, and LINE. The filament switch adjusts filament voltage. The LINE switch adjusts the line voltage going into the tester. The SHUNT switch shunts across the meter to affect its reading.

Regarding putting a lightbulb in the meter, disregard. I was simply suggesting it as a modification to the meter so that the meter could light up. It looks nice that way.

Regarding a tube testing fine on the EICO and then testing yellow on another tester, you should check the resistors and voltages in your EICO, and then check the same in the other tester. One could be failing. Usually when the resistors drift in the EICO, the readings get lower, so if it reads high, then it's probably reading correctly. Though this is only an emissions tester, I've never had a tube test GOOD that didn't work in any of my radios, and most tubes which test in the high part of the REPLACE area on the EICO still work well in most radios.

You may also want to make sure that the knob is on the SHUNT control shaft properly. It should stop on the left pointing EXACTLY at 0. It should stop on the right pointing EXACTLY at 100. If it doesn't, then the set screw needs to be loosened so that the knob can be repositioned. Turn the shaft to the right (clockwise) to the stop. Then place knob on shaft and point exactly at 100. Tighten screw with small screw driver. Setting the knob at 100 is better than at 0, because it is easier to tighten the screw with the knob facing 100. Recheck control operation and be sure that the knob stops at exactly 0 and 100.

Another thing is that before you make any tests, you must be sure that the tester is receiving proper line voltage so that all tests are the same. The LINE adjustment allows you to feed the tester 115 volts no matter what your line voltage is, and it allows you to adjust when the tester is being loaded down by tubes with high current filaments. To adjust properly, always start out with your tester's SELECTOR switch in the LINE SET position. Insert tube and turn all other switches to their correct positions for the tube you have selected. After you have connected the tube to the filament current, and have the FILAMENT switch adjusted to the proper voltage, turn the LINE control so that the meter lines up with the line which has the word LINE written above it.

Whenever you have finished testing a tube, always turn the FILAMENT control to 0 before ever inserting another tube. Turn the SELECTOR switch to LINE.

The INSTRUCTION MANUAL for this tester is available on this web page, and it can be downloaded easily (won't say "image not available").

Thomas

:Hello, Now I am stumped as to which tube tester to get or fix mine, the tripplet 3413-a works again(I think) after I fixed the meter from a foreign object broke the glass and the meter needle broke in two(I glued it back on). I dont know enough to purchase the one I need that would suit me best....I see that emissions testers dont really do much and mutual conductance or transductance ones might be better, and the article from marks link suggested that ebay is largely for the idiots with low ratings buying up and inflating the price.
:My selector switch fell apart internally. I don't know if this happens on a regular basis. There are still a lot of EICO 625 testers in use, and noone seems to complain about the Selector switch. The switch I am talking about, the Selector switch, is plainly marked SELECTOR above the knob. The other three switches are marked FILAMENT, SHUNT, and LINE. The filament switch adjusts filament voltage. The LINE switch adjusts the line voltage going into the tester. The SHUNT switch shunts across the meter to affect its reading.
:
:Regarding putting a lightbulb in the meter, disregard. I was simply suggesting it as a modification to the meter so that the meter could light up. It looks nice that way.
:
:Regarding a tube testing fine on the EICO and then testing yellow on another tester, you should check the resistors and voltages in your EICO, and then check the same in the other tester. One could be failing. Usually when the resistors drift in the EICO, the readings get lower, so if it reads high, then it's probably reading correctly. Though this is only an emissions tester, I've never had a tube test GOOD that didn't work in any of my radios, and most tubes which test in the high part of the REPLACE area on the EICO still work well in most radios.
:
:You may also want to make sure that the knob is on the SHUNT control shaft properly. It should stop on the left pointing EXACTLY at 0. It should stop on the right pointing EXACTLY at 100. If it doesn't, then the set screw needs to be loosened so that the knob can be repositioned. Turn the shaft to the right (clockwise) to the stop. Then place knob on shaft and point exactly at 100. Tighten screw with small screw driver. Setting the knob at 100 is better than at 0, because it is easier to tighten the screw with the knob facing 100. Recheck control operation and be sure that the knob stops at exactly 0 and 100.
:
:Another thing is that before you make any tests, you must be sure that the tester is receiving proper line voltage so that all tests are the same. The LINE adjustment allows you to feed the tester 115 volts no matter what your line voltage is, and it allows you to adjust when the tester is being loaded down by tubes with high current filaments. To adjust properly, always start out with your tester's SELECTOR switch in the LINE SET position. Insert tube and turn all other switches to their correct positions for the tube you have selected. After you have connected the tube to the filament current, and have the FILAMENT switch adjusted to the proper voltage, turn the LINE control so that the meter lines up with the line which has the word LINE written above it.
:
:Whenever you have finished testing a tube, always turn the FILAMENT control to 0 before ever inserting another tube. Turn the SELECTOR switch to LINE.
:
:The INSTRUCTION MANUAL for this tester is available on this web page, and it can be downloaded easily (won't say "image not available").
:
:Thomas

For radio work the EICO 625 will work well. I don't have my own web site, so you may not consider me an expert. All I can say is that this is normally all you need for radio work. If you are experienced enough with radio, you can figure out a lot of the other stuff on your own. If you ever come across an amplifier that is strong enough to create red plates on the output tubes, perhaps a transconductance tester will help you find those hot spot cathodes. Until then, none of this really is important for radio. Most radios don't have high power output sections, and all the other critical stuff making a transconductance tester necessary.

Thomas

One thing I had to do with my Sencore tube/transistor tester was make adaptor sockets. I used octal bases off of dead tubes and sockets out of junked radios. I then compared the old tube ratings with newer octal tubes from a tube manual to develop the load settings on the tube checker. The tube checker works good. As always substitution is the best test.

MRO

Hi:
Just before I started searching for a tester I found a great site that really distills all the facts and fiction down for you
This is written by the very knowledgable and helpful Randy James. He has given me tips and pointers via email too any time I ask. Great site!
http://www.tone-lizard.com/Tube_Testers.html?

:Hello, I am looking on ebay and hickok 600a testers are quite popular, does that mean the 600a is a really good tester to get, or can I benifit from better?
:Hi:
:Just before I started searching for a tester I found a great site that really distills all the facts and fiction down for you
:This is written by the very knowledgable and helpful Randy James. He has given me tips and pointers via email too any time I ask. Great site!
:http://www.tone-lizard.com/Tube_Testers.html?