I've been working on a Steinite Model 261, a 7-tube TRF, c. 1928. (Steinites were built in Atchison, Kansas, but this particular set came from an attic in Pennsylvania, so go figure.)

I got it working with very good sensitivity and selectivity, but every so often the volume would drop and later recover. I then cleaned the tube pins with emery cloth and swabbed the sockets with a drop of DeOxit on a Q-tip. Problem solved.

This should be a standard procedure for restoring old radios. Do as I say, not as I do.

Hi Doug

Try this next time you have a tube with dirty pins. Apply Naval Jelly with a tooth brush. Let stand 1 minute and wash away with water. Pins will look like new.

I've seen people sand pins, scratching plating. I don't like using emery cloth as this takes effort and wears through plating.

Norm

:I've been working on a Steinite Model 261, a 7-tube TRF, c. 1928. (Steinites were built in Atchison, Kansas, but this particular set came from an attic in Pennsylvania, so go figure.)
:
:I got it working with very good sensitivity and selectivity, but every so often the volume would drop and later recover. I then cleaned the tube pins with emery cloth and swabbed the sockets with a drop of DeOxit on a Q-tip. Problem solved.
:
:This should be a standard procedure for restoring old radios. Do as I say, not as I do.

Hi Norm,

I am curious about one thing, would Naval Jelly affect the tube markings on the glass? If it does one would need to be very careful when cleaning the pins as you described.

What exactly is Naval Jelly, and where can it be purcahsed?

Gary

:Hi Doug
:
: Try this next time you have a tube with dirty pins. Apply Naval Jelly with a tooth brush. Let stand 1 minute and wash away with water. Pins will look like new.
:
: I've seen people sand pins, scratching plating. I don't like using emery cloth as this takes effort and wears through plating.
:
:Norm
:
:
::I've been working on a Steinite Model 261, a 7-tube TRF, c. 1928. (Steinites were built in Atchison, Kansas, but this particular set came from an attic in Pennsylvania, so go figure.)
::
::I got it working with very good sensitivity and selectivity, but every so often the volume would drop and later recover. I then cleaned the tube pins with emery cloth and swabbed the sockets with a drop of DeOxit on a Q-tip. Problem solved.
::
::This should be a standard procedure for restoring old radios. Do as I say, not as I do.

Naval Jelly is a trade name for a jelled phosporic acid compound. It is sold in all hardware stores, including Home Depot and Lowes. look for it in the paint department. It will be in a bright pink bottle.

Norm,
Does Naval Jelly work on terminal strips and solder lugs? I bought a lot of NOS hardware at a swap meet. It was never used, but must be 60 years old, at least. It's either tin or nickel plate and solder doesn't want to stick...even with paste flux. I used Scotch-Brite abrasive pads, but it's not very efficient. Rich

:Hi Doug
:
: Try this next time you have a tube with dirty pins. Apply Naval Jelly with a tooth brush. Let stand 1 minute and wash away with water. Pins will look like new.
:
: I've seen people sand pins, scratching plating. I don't like using emery cloth as this takes effort and wears through plating.
:
:Norm
:
:
::I've been working on a Steinite Model 261, a 7-tube TRF, c. 1928. (Steinites were built in Atchison, Kansas, but this particular set came from an attic in Pennsylvania, so go figure.)
::
::I got it working with very good sensitivity and selectivity, but every so often the volume would drop and later recover. I then cleaned the tube pins with emery cloth and swabbed the sockets with a drop of DeOxit on a Q-tip. Problem solved.
::
::This should be a standard procedure for restoring old radios. Do as I say, not as I do.

Hi

Naval Jelly is more like a thin paste. Best to apply with a tooth brush. I don't know what it will do with tube numbers but you won't be getting it there. It will clean up terminal strips without scratching plating. Scotch-Brite is better than sand paper but still scratches. Naval Jelly is nice for tube sockets also but be sure to wash it away. Once you see what it does I'm sure you will find a lot of uses.

Norm

:Norm,
:Does Naval Jelly work on terminal strips and solder lugs? I bought a lot of NOS hardware at a swap meet. It was never used, but must be 60 years old, at least. It's either tin or nickel plate and solder doesn't want to stick...even with paste flux. I used Scotch-Brite abrasive pads, but it's not very efficient. Rich
:
:
::Hi Doug
::
:: Try this next time you have a tube with dirty pins. Apply Naval Jelly with a tooth brush. Let stand 1 minute and wash away with water. Pins will look like new.
::
:: I've seen people sand pins, scratching plating. I don't like using emery cloth as this takes effort and wears through plating.
::
::Norm
::
::
:::I've been working on a Steinite Model 261, a 7-tube TRF, c. 1928. (Steinites were built in Atchison, Kansas, but this particular set came from an attic in Pennsylvania, so go figure.)
:::
:::I got it working with very good sensitivity and selectivity, but every so often the volume would drop and later recover. I then cleaned the tube pins with emery cloth and swabbed the sockets with a drop of DeOxit on a Q-tip. Problem solved.
:::
:::This should be a standard procedure for restoring old radios. Do as I say, not as I do.

I tried the Naval Jelly, and it's pretty slick. Thanks for the tip, Norm.

Instead of a toothbrush, I applied it to the pins with a Q-tip. Ace Hardware had the Naval Jelly.

Doug,
I've used a concrete etch (hydrochloric and muriatic acids), RustoLeum rust remover (hydrochloric and phosphoric acids), LimeAway liquid (not the spray) and silverware dipping solution for many metal cleaning chores. The Rustoleum is more effective (stronger) than Naval jelly for pure rust removal. The main theme being that all are acid based, should be used with caution, not in an enclosed area, with protective gloves and eyewear. Typically, water dillutes all of them, and can be used (hot)to wash off residue and residual solution, and then blow dry. As is true in most cases, a inconspicious area should be tested first, to determine best solution to the problem. Some liquid soldering fluxes shines copper almost immediately too, and in most cases are water soluble. Baking soda also comes to mind, but be careful of mixing this with any of the acid solutions. The results could be disasterous, and hazzardous to your health.
marv

I've been working on a Steinite Model 261, a 7-tube TRF, c. 1928. (Steinites were built in Atchison, Kansas, but this particular set came from an attic in Pennsylvania, so go figure.)
:
:I got it working with very good sensitivity and selectivity, but every so often the volume would drop and later recover. I then cleaned the tube pins with emery cloth and swabbed the sockets with a drop of DeOxit on a Q-tip. Problem solved.
:
:This should be a standard procedure for restoring old radios. Do as I say, not as I do.