Does anyone out there have any ideas/experience on creating missing back panels for table tops? What materials work best, how to cut a shape without edge frizzies, how to create clean vent holes/slots ? I have a hard time resisting the purchase of a nice tabletop even if the back is missing, so I have several to try and make look good.

Dennis Wess.

I think an easy way to cut the pattern would be to lay the radio down on it's back on the (material) to be cut then trace around it with a pencil. You can cut it with a hand held jig saw as long as the material is clamped to a bench. Or you could use a band saw with a thin blade. What I can't think of is a ready made material. I want to say dark press board but that might be too thick. I would be tempted to also try layering several sheet of poster type paper in wax.

I am working in a sculpture class this semester and we use a dark brown wax for projects. It melts quick and dries hard. I don't know how well it would hold up with the heat of 35z4s or 50L5s. If you find a material let me know. Most of my table tops have a thin press board or a thick poster board composite. I only have one table top with a thin plywood back. It is a Howard.

:Does anyone out there have any ideas/experience on creating missing back panels for table tops? What materials work best, how to cut a shape without edge frizzies, how to create clean vent holes/slots ? I have a hard time resisting the purchase of a nice tabletop even if the back is missing, so I have several to try and make look good.
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:Dennis Wess.

:I think an easy way to cut the pattern would be to lay the radio down on it's back on the (material) to be cut then trace around it with a pencil. You can cut it with a hand held jig saw as long as the material is clamped to a bench. Or you could use a band saw with a thin blade. What I can't think of is a ready made material. I want to say dark press board but that might be too thick. I would be tempted to also try layering several sheet of poster type paper in wax.
:
:I am working in a sculpture class this semester and we use a dark brown wax for projects. It melts quick and dries hard. I don't know how well it would hold up with the heat of 35z4s or 50L5s. If you find a material let me know. Most of my table tops have a thin press board or a thick poster board composite. I only have one table top with a thin plywood back. It is a Howard.
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::Does anyone out there have any ideas/experience on creating missing back panels for table tops? What materials work best, how to cut a shape without edge frizzies, how to create clean vent holes/slots ? I have a hard time resisting the purchase of a nice tabletop even if the back is missing, so I have several to try and make look good.
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::Dennis Wess.

Hmmmm.......Jim, your mention of plywood got me thinking. It seems to me that plywood might be a good choice because it would more readily accept a drill bit (for vent holes)or a saw blade than say cardboard etc. I am wondering if there is such a thing as plywood that is only ....say.......3/32" - 1/8" thick. Veneer I think would be too thin and an underlayment (Luan) type of plywood would be too thick. Masonite (hardboard) I think would have fuzzy edges when trimmed or drilled. I'll wait and see what some of the other forum members suggest before I get into this any deeper.

Dennis Wess.

::You might be able to find some thin paneling that would work. Masonite would be overkill. It smells horrible when cutting and is incredible dusty as well.

I think an easy way to cut the pattern would be to lay the radio down on it's back on the (material) to be cut then trace around it with a pencil. You can cut it with a hand held jig saw as long as the material is clamped to a bench. Or you could use a band saw with a thin blade. What I can't think of is a ready made material. I want to say dark press board but that might be too thick. I would be tempted to also try layering several sheet of poster type paper in wax.
::
::I am working in a sculpture class this semester and we use a dark brown wax for projects. It melts quick and dries hard. I don't know how well it would hold up with the heat of 35z4s or 50L5s. If you find a material let me know. Most of my table tops have a thin press board or a thick poster board composite. I only have one table top with a thin plywood back. It is a Howard.
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:::Does anyone out there have any ideas/experience on creating missing back panels for table tops? What materials work best, how to cut a shape without edge frizzies, how to create clean vent holes/slots ? I have a hard time resisting the purchase of a nice tabletop even if the back is missing, so I have several to try and make look good.
:::
:::Dennis Wess.
:
:Hmmmm.......Jim, your mention of plywood got me thinking. It seems to me that plywood might be a good choice because it would more readily accept a drill bit (for vent holes)or a saw blade than say cardboard etc. I am wondering if there is such a thing as plywood that is only ....say.......3/32" - 1/8" thick. Veneer I think would be too thin and an underlayment (Luan) type of plywood would be too thick. Masonite (hardboard) I think would have fuzzy edges when trimmed or drilled. I'll wait and see what some of the other forum members suggest before I get into this any deeper.
:
:Dennis Wess.

There is a large chain of woodworking stores called "Woodcraft"....there happens to be one near me...that may carry a thin enough wood for making back panels. I plan to check them out tomorrow and will post any findings that may be pertinent. Their website is www.woodcraft.com
Dennis Wess

:::You might be able to find some thin paneling that would work. Masonite would be overkill. It smells horrible when cutting and is incredible dusty as well.
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:I think an easy way to cut the pattern would be to lay the radio down on it's back on the (material) to be cut then trace around it with a pencil. You can cut it with a hand held jig saw as long as the material is clamped to a bench. Or you could use a band saw with a thin blade. What I can't think of is a ready made material. I want to say dark press board but that might be too thick. I would be tempted to also try layering several sheet of poster type paper in wax.
:::
:::I am working in a sculpture class this semester and we use a dark brown wax for projects. It melts quick and dries hard. I don't know how well it would hold up with the heat of 35z4s or 50L5s. If you find a material let me know. Most of my table tops have a thin press board or a thick poster board composite. I only have one table top with a thin plywood back. It is a Howard.
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::::Does anyone out there have any ideas/experience on creating missing back panels for table tops? What materials work best, how to cut a shape without edge frizzies, how to create clean vent holes/slots ? I have a hard time resisting the purchase of a nice tabletop even if the back is missing, so I have several to try and make look good.
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::::Dennis Wess.
::
::Hmmmm.......Jim, your mention of plywood got me thinking. It seems to me that plywood might be a good choice because it would more readily accept a drill bit (for vent holes)or a saw blade than say cardboard etc. I am wondering if there is such a thing as plywood that is only ....say.......3/32" - 1/8" thick. Veneer I think would be too thin and an underlayment (Luan) type of plywood would be too thick. Masonite (hardboard) I think would have fuzzy edges when trimmed or drilled. I'll wait and see what some of the other forum members suggest before I get into this any deeper.
::
::Dennis Wess.

Original backs were made of masonite or art board (cardboard of the non-corrugated type). I've had success with both materials. If you want to drill or saw without frizzies, clamp the masonite between two boards or between two pieces of sacrificial masonite. Draw your pattern on the top piece and cut/drill all three as a unit. Your center piece will have no frizzies.

Art board can be cut quite well with a very sharp razor. It can be drilled (though this is overkill) by using the above method (between two boards).

Either material can be painted. Masonite can be stained various colors with wood stain. Usually new masonite isn't that orangish color, but is rather pale. Stain brings out the old color. Masonite is also available in several thicknesses, so you are likely to find some that suits your needs. Masonite can be found at Home Depot and Menards, and I'm sure it can be found at other stores as well.

Thomas

Thomas, I've also had success using artist board on several radios. It does seem to be a bit thicker than the originals though, but not by much. I've used a spade bit to drill part way through and then turned the piece over and drilled from the other side. This method does quite well in avoiding rough or frizzy edges. Your idea of making a sandwich also works well.

Mike
:Original backs were made of masonite or art board (cardboard of the non-corrugated type). I've had success with both materials. If you want to drill or saw without frizzies, clamp the masonite between two boards or between two pieces of sacrificial masonite. Draw your pattern on the top piece and cut/drill all three as a unit. Your center piece will have no frizzies.
:
:Art board can be cut quite well with a very sharp razor. It can be drilled (though this is overkill) by using the above method (between two boards).
:
:Either material can be painted. Masonite can be stained various colors with wood stain. Usually new masonite isn't that orangish color, but is rather pale. Stain brings out the old color. Masonite is also available in several thicknesses, so you are likely to find some that suits your needs. Masonite can be found at Home Depot and Menards, and I'm sure it can be found at other stores as well.
:
:Thomas

:Original backs were made of masonite or art board (cardboard of the non-corrugated type). I've had success with both materials. If you want to drill or saw without frizzies, clamp the masonite between two boards or between two pieces of sacrificial masonite. Draw your pattern on the top piece and cut/drill all three as a unit. Your center piece will have no frizzies.
:
:Art board can be cut quite well with a very sharp razor. It can be drilled (though this is overkill) by using the above method (between two boards).
:
:Either material can be painted. Masonite can be stained various colors with wood stain. Usually new masonite isn't that orangish color, but is rather pale. Stain brings out the old color. Masonite is also available in several thicknesses, so you are likely to find some that suits your needs. Masonite can be found at Home Depot and Menards, and I'm sure it can be found at other stores as well.
:
:Thomas

::Original backs were made of masonite or art board (cardboard of the non-corrugated type). I've had success with both materials. If you want to drill or saw without frizzies, clamp the masonite between two boards or between two pieces of sacrificial masonite. Draw your pattern on the top piece and cut/drill all three as a unit. Your center piece will have no frizzies.
::
::Art board can be cut quite well with a very sharp razor. It can be drilled (though this is overkill) by using the above method (between two boards).
::
::Either material can be painted. Masonite can be stained various colors with wood stain. Usually new masonite isn't that orangish color, but is rather pale. Stain brings out the old color. Masonite is also available in several thicknesses, so you are likely to find some that suits your needs. Masonite can be found at Home Depot and Menards, and I'm sure it can be found at other stores as well.
::
::Thomas::I have found a better substitute for the beeswax that many of the antenna forms were soaked with (maybe); Try using Formby's or other brand of tung oil varnish to saturate the cardboard AFTER cuting to shape the varnish stays liquid long enough to soak through, When it eventually hardens, it looks like the wax but holds its shape better and does not dog-ear if handled a lot.

You can purchase Poplar Plywood from hobby stores. 1/8"x6"x12" for about $12.00 or 1/8"x12"x24" for about $30.00. I know the cost is high but you can cut it by applying tape to the back side and using a fine tooth saw. Most back range from 3/32" to 1/8". You can stain it anyway you want.

Steve

:Does anyone out there have any ideas/experience on creating missing back panels for table tops? What materials work best, how to cut a shape without edge frizzies, how to create clean vent holes/slots ? I have a hard time resisting the purchase of a nice tabletop even if the back is missing, so I have several to try and make look good.
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:Dennis Wess.

Hi Dennis; I use the same material as used for peg boards but without the holes; masonite?? As far as frizzies try to use a new,fine jigsaw blade and sandpaper the edges and the holes.
Andy

Dennis, you can also check out this website for reproduction backs.

Terry F

http://www.retro-tronics.com/sales.php

:Does anyone out there have any ideas/experience on creating missing back panels for table tops? What materials work best, how to cut a shape without edge frizzies, how to create clean vent holes/slots ? I have a hard time resisting the purchase of a nice tabletop even if the back is missing, so I have several to try and make look good.
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:Dennis Wess.

:Dennis, you can also check out this website for reproduction backs.
:
:Terry F
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:http://www.retro-tronics.com/sales.php

Since you need ventilation anyway, why not pegboard with the holes? A small, sharp saw and some sandpaper, followed by some flat clear enamel might look very original.

Lewis
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::Does anyone out there have any ideas/experience on creating missing back panels for table tops? What materials work best, how to cut a shape without edge frizzies, how to create clean vent holes/slots ? I have a hard time resisting the purchase of a nice tabletop even if the back is missing, so I have several to try and make look good.
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::Dennis Wess.

::Dennis, you can also check out this website for reproduction backs.
::
::Terry F
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::http://www.retro-tronics.com/sales.php
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:Since you need ventilation anyway, why not pegboard with the holes? A small, sharp saw and some sandpaper, followed by some flat clear enamel might look very original.
:
:Lewis
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:::Does anyone out there have any ideas/experience on creating missing back panels for table tops? What materials work best, how to cut a shape without edge frizzies, how to create clean vent holes/slots ? I have a hard time resisting the purchase of a nice tabletop even if the back is missing, so I have several to try and make look good.
:::
:::Dennis Wess.

Well, in further updating..... to a thread initiated back in 2005...my choice is the mat board that picture framers use. Many options in color, sizing and texture. They frequently start with a large piece and trim it down to a smaller outer rectangle that might only be an inch or two in width and then may use a completely different piece to replicate a yet smaller outer border sizing. Therefore a smaller center core is always cut out and is stored aside for ever smaller jobs. That is UNLESS the outer periphery gets soiled or "buggered" up, and that is the stage where I step up to my neigborhood shop and collect all of my offered FREEBIES ! with yet an adequate pristine central area that can still be cut down into a back . A definite mega-Ditto on the sacrificial backer boards on intricate slots, etc as well as a sealer coat on the material. Using a high speed Dremel tool on final trimming also helps. 73's de Edd 7/12/2007 5:23:42 PMMarv Nuce(52006:52004) The framing shops I'm familiar with have a machine for shaping/sizing the backboards/inserts, but is capable of cutting very intricate holes/designs. in the heavy backboards, and there are hundreds of colors, finishes and thickness available. One could create almost an exact replica, if an accurate drawing or picture is available. The labor and materials would be costly I fear. marv :::Dennis, you can also check out this website for reproduction backs. ::: :::Terry F ::: :::http://www.retro-tronics.com/sales.php :: :: :: :: ::Since you need ventilation anyway, why not pegboard with the holes? A small, sharp saw and some sandpaper, followed by some flat clear enamel might look very original. :: ::Lewis ::: ::: ::: ::: ::::Does anyone out there have any ideas/experience on creating missing back panels for table tops? What materials work best, how to cut a shape without edge frizzies, how to create clean vent holes/slots ? I have a hard time resisting the purchase of a nice tabletop even if the back is missing, so I have several to try and make look good. :::: ::::Dennis Wess. : : : : : : : :Well, in further updating..... to a thread initiated back in 2005...my choice is the mat board that picture framers use. :Many options in color, sizing and texture. They frequently start with a large piece and trim it down to a smaller outer rectangle :that might only be an inch or two in width and then may use a completely different piece to replicate a yet smaller outer border :sizing. Therefore a smaller center core is always cut out and is stored aside for ever smaller jobs. That is UNLESS the outer :periphery gets soiled or "buggered" up, and that is the stage where I step up to my neigborhood shop and collect all of my :offered FREEBIES ! with yet an adequate pristine central area that can still be cut down into a back . :A definite mega-Ditto on the sacrificial backer boards on intricate slots, etc as well as a sealer coat on the material. Using a high speed :Dremel tool on final trimming also helps. : : : :73's de Edd : : : : : : : 7/13/2007 4:03:02 PMMike M(52027:52006) Hi, I just finished making two backs, one for an Emerson Patriot and the other a Temple E-514. I used a version of artist board from the local craft shop. It was canvas glued over stiff non corrugated cardboard. It is a bit thinner than artist board. I removed the canvas, cut out the back pattern and then used wood stain for coloring. the color turned out great and the cardboard didn't get soggy. To cut out the pattern I used spade bits, a coping saw and a razor blade. I followed the cutting with a flat and rat tail file to remove the frizzies. Mike M. :The framing shops I'm familiar with have a machine for shaping/sizing the backboards/inserts, but is capable of cutting very intricate holes/designs. in the heavy backboards, and there are hundreds of colors, finishes and thickness available. One could create almost an exact replica, if an accurate drawing or picture is available. The labor and materials would be costly I fear. : :marv : ::::Dennis, you can also check out this website for reproduction backs. :::: ::::Terry F :::: ::::http://www.retro-tronics.com/sales.php ::: ::: ::: ::: :::Since you need ventilation anyway, why not pegboard with the holes? A small, sharp saw and some sandpaper, followed by some flat clear enamel might look very original. ::: :::Lewis :::: :::: :::: :::: :::::Does anyone out there have any ideas/experience on creating missing back panels for table tops? What materials work best, how to cut a shape without edge frizzies, how to create clean vent holes/slots ? I have a hard time resisting the purchase of a nice tabletop even if the back is missing, so I have several to try and make look good. ::::: :::::Dennis Wess. :: :: :: :: :: :: :: ::Well, in further updating..... to a thread initiated back in 2005...my choice is the mat board that picture framers use. ::Many options in color, sizing and texture. They frequently start with a large piece and trim it down to a smaller outer rectangle ::that might only be an inch or two in width and then may use a completely different piece to replicate a yet smaller outer border ::sizing. Therefore a smaller center core is always cut out and is stored aside for ever smaller jobs. That is UNLESS the outer ::periphery gets soiled or "buggered" up, and that is the stage where I step up to my neigborhood shop and collect all of my ::offered FREEBIES ! with yet an adequate pristine central area that can still be cut down into a back . ::A definite mega-Ditto on the sacrificial backer boards on intricate slots, etc as well as a sealer coat on the material. Using a high speed ::Dremel tool on final trimming also helps. :: :: :: ::73's de Edd :: :: :: :: :: :: :: 7/13/2007 6:30:51 PMMarv Nuce(52033:52027) Mike, Good job, and the $$ you saved. "Necessity is the Mother of Invention" Not my original, but very appropriate. I just finished 2 hand made connectors for an old radio/phono console. None of my old (bad)tubes/vibrators had pins that would fit these old receptacles, but found a short length of copper tubing in my "SAVE FOR FUTURE" box that fit well. Made the connector body from 7/8" and 1" hardwood dowels. marv :Hi, : :I just finished making two backs, one for an Emerson Patriot and the other a Temple E-514. : :I used a version of artist board from the local craft shop. It was canvas glued over stiff non corrugated cardboard. It is a bit thinner than artist board. I removed the canvas, cut out the back pattern and then used wood stain for coloring. the color turned out great and the cardboard didn't get soggy. To cut out the pattern I used spade bits, a coping saw and a razor blade. I followed the cutting with a flat and rat tail file to remove the frizzies. : :Mike M. : : :The framing shops I'm familiar with have a machine for shaping/sizing the backboards/inserts, but is capable of cutting very intricate holes/designs. in the heavy backboards, and there are hundreds of colors, finishes and thickness available. One could create almost an exact replica, if an accurate drawing or picture is available. The labor and materials would be costly I fear. :: ::marv :: :::::Dennis, you can also check out this website for reproduction backs. ::::: :::::Terry F ::::: :::::http://www.retro-tronics.com/sales.php :::: :::: :::: :::: ::::Since you need ventilation anyway, why not pegboard with the holes? A small, sharp saw and some sandpaper, followed by some flat clear enamel might look very original. :::: ::::Lewis ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::: ::::::Does anyone out there have any ideas/experience on creating missing back panels for table tops? What materials work best, how to cut a shape without edge frizzies, how to create clean vent holes/slots ? I have a hard time resisting the purchase of a nice tabletop even if the back is missing, so I have several to try and make look good. :::::: ::::::Dennis Wess. ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: :::Well, in further updating..... to a thread initiated back in 2005...my choice is the mat board that picture framers use. :::Many options in color, sizing and texture. They frequently start with a large piece and trim it down to a smaller outer rectangle :::that might only be an inch or two in width and then may use a completely different piece to replicate a yet smaller outer border :::sizing. Therefore a smaller center core is always cut out and is stored aside for ever smaller jobs. That is UNLESS the outer :::periphery gets soiled or "buggered" up, and that is the stage where I step up to my neigborhood shop and collect all of my :::offered FREEBIES ! with yet an adequate pristine central area that can still be cut down into a back . :::A definite mega-Ditto on the sacrificial backer boards on intricate slots, etc as well as a sealer coat on the material. Using a high speed :::Dremel tool on final trimming also helps. ::: ::: ::: :::73's de Edd ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: ::: 7/15/2007 8:46:18 AMDennis Wess(52051:51997) Hi Terry. Actually this thread does, as Edd mentoned, go back almost 2 years. Since then I HAVE ordered from Retro-Tronics and I have to say that I am totally satisfied with their radio-back products and would not hesitate to order from them again. I would rather pay a fee to get a professionally made laser cut, original looking radio back than to make one myself. I have tried and am just not satisfied with the results (although I DO lack adequate power tools to do the job right). The only problem with Retro-Tronics is that their selection is at this time somewhat limited........BUT.......they are adding additional models all the time. 7/15/2007 6:44:07 PMDr T(52065:52051) I did not read all the responses in the thread so I may be repetitive. I make a lot of radio backs and primarily use two materials. Tempered 1/8 inch masonite or 1/8 inch maple plywood available at mobile home suppliers. I purchase the tempered masonite in 4 x 8 foot sheets and use it most often. I use a high speed router to make all cuts and it does a clean professional job. I spray on two coats of lacquer based sanding sealer as a finsh for most backs, however, you can follow this with pigmented color coats if you so desire. Hope this helps. :Hi Terry. Actually this thread does, as Edd mentoned, go back almost 2 years. Since then I HAVE ordered from Retro-Tronics and I have to say that I am totally satisfied with their radio-back products and would not hesitate to order from them again. I would rather pay a fee to get a professionally made laser cut, original looking radio back than to make one myself. I have tried and am just not satisfied with the results (although I DO lack adequate power tools to do the job right). The only problem with Retro-Tronics is that their selection is at this time somewhat limited........BUT.......they are adding additional models all the time. © 1989-2025, Nostalgia Air