The only problem I have with this set is getting the dial lamps positioned so as to light the dial. It's clear where the rubber cushion strips on each side should be. I know experiment...back and forth. But if you know about this set two or three times removing the chassis is about enough. Personal experience with correct physical placement of dial lamps is requested. Please.

P.S. I have used #47's with a 39 ohm 10 watt resistor. Plenty of light just not getting to dial.

Thanks,
Bill

Hi Bill

Is a #47 with 39 ohms really bright enough? A #47 draws .15 amps. A 39 ohm resistor will drop 5.85 volts at this current.

This radio uses two 1490 lamps in series. These lamps are rated 3.2 volts @ 160 ma. Lamps can be bought from www.bulbdirect.com . They cost 60 cents and come in boxes on 10.

Norm

:The only problem I have with this set is getting the dial lamps positioned so as to light the dial. It's clear where the rubber cushion strips on each side should be. I know experiment...back and forth. But if you know about this set two or three times removing the chassis is about enough. Personal experience with correct physical placement of dial lamps is requested. Please.
:
:P.S. I have used #47's with a 39 ohm 10 watt resistor. Plenty of light just not getting to dial.
:
:Thanks,
:Bill

The bulbs should be positioned so that the light shines through the glass.

Thomas

:Hi Bill
:
: Is a #47 with 39 ohms really bright enough? A #47 draws .15 amps. A 39 ohm resistor will drop 5.85 volts at this current.
:
: This radio uses two 1490 lamps in series. These lamps are rated 3.2 volts @ 160 ma. Lamps can be bought from www.bulbdirect.com . They cost 60 cents and come in boxes on 10.
:
:Norm
:
::The only problem I have with this set is getting the dial lamps positioned so as to light the dial. It's clear where the rubber cushion strips on each side should be. I know experiment...back and forth. But if you know about this set two or three times removing the chassis is about enough. Personal experience with correct physical placement of dial lamps is requested. Please.
::
::P.S. I have used #47's with a 39 ohm 10 watt resistor. Plenty of light just not getting to dial.
::
::Thanks,
::Bill

Remember, too, that once the radio is warmed up, more than just .15 amperes flows through the pilot lamp ballast. Remember that the plate of the rectifier also draws its current here. Thus a 39 ohm resistor may be adequate. When I make conversions like this so that I may use the more common #47 bulb (which is also brighter than the 3.2 volt bulb), I place a resistor from 39 to 45 ohms between the AC cord and pin 2 of the 35Z5. I then disconnect the pilot lamp connection from pin 2 and relocate it to the AC line connection. Usually this lights two #47 bulbs in series quite well. Too high a resistance may cause the bulbs to burn out when the radio is turned on cold. I think I usually use a 40 ohm resistor, which is similar to your 39 ohm resistor.

Thomas

:The bulbs should be positioned so that the light shines through the glass.
:
:Thomas
:
::Hi Bill
::
:: Is a #47 with 39 ohms really bright enough? A #47 draws .15 amps. A 39 ohm resistor will drop 5.85 volts at this current.
::
:: This radio uses two 1490 lamps in series. These lamps are rated 3.2 volts @ 160 ma. Lamps can be bought from www.bulbdirect.com . They cost 60 cents and come in boxes on 10.
::
::Norm
::
:::The only problem I have with this set is getting the dial lamps positioned so as to light the dial. It's clear where the rubber cushion strips on each side should be. I know experiment...back and forth. But if you know about this set two or three times removing the chassis is about enough. Personal experience with correct physical placement of dial lamps is requested. Please.
:::
:::P.S. I have used #47's with a 39 ohm 10 watt resistor. Plenty of light just not getting to dial.
:::
:::Thanks,
:::Bill

Hi

These two bulbs are in series across a section of 35Z5 filament. If two #47 bulbs are in series you won't have enough voltage to light them properly. Best lighting is using 2 - 1490 bulbs.

Norm

:Remember, too, that once the radio is warmed up, more than just .15 amperes flows through the pilot lamp ballast. Remember that the plate of the rectifier also draws its current here. Thus a 39 ohm resistor may be adequate. When I make conversions like this so that I may use the more common #47 bulb (which is also brighter than the 3.2 volt bulb), I place a resistor from 39 to 45 ohms between the AC cord and pin 2 of the 35Z5. I then disconnect the pilot lamp connection from pin 2 and relocate it to the AC line connection. Usually this lights two #47 bulbs in series quite well. Too high a resistance may cause the bulbs to burn out when the radio is turned on cold. I think I usually use a 40 ohm resistor, which is similar to your 39 ohm resistor.
:
:Thomas
:
::The bulbs should be positioned so that the light shines through the glass.
::
::Thomas
::
:::Hi Bill
:::
::: Is a #47 with 39 ohms really bright enough? A #47 draws .15 amps. A 39 ohm resistor will drop 5.85 volts at this current.
:::
::: This radio uses two 1490 lamps in series. These lamps are rated 3.2 volts @ 160 ma. Lamps can be bought from www.bulbdirect.com . They cost 60 cents and come in boxes on 10.
:::
:::Norm
:::
::::The only problem I have with this set is getting the dial lamps positioned so as to light the dial. It's clear where the rubber cushion strips on each side should be. I know experiment...back and forth. But if you know about this set two or three times removing the chassis is about enough. Personal experience with correct physical placement of dial lamps is requested. Please.
::::
::::P.S. I have used #47's with a 39 ohm 10 watt resistor. Plenty of light just not getting to dial.
::::
::::Thanks,
::::Bill

"When I make conversions like this so that I may use the more common #47 bulb (which is also brighter than the 3.2 volt bulb), I place a resistor from 39 to 45 ohms between the AC cord and pin 2 of the 35Z5. I then disconnect the pilot lamp connection from pin 2 and relocate it to the AC line connection. Usually this lights two #47 bulbs in series quite well."

When a resistor is placed between the line cord and pin 2 of the 35Z5 tube, this effectively increases the resistance of the pilot lamp ballast filament within the tube, since resistance has been added to it. Relocating the pilot lamp lead that was on pin 2 to the resistor-line cord connection places the entire voltage drop of both the resistor and ballast filament on the pilot lamp leads. With this set-up it is possible to light two #47 bulbs in series to full brightness.

Since these bulbs are sold at Radio Shack and most hardware stores, they are easily replaced, too. I originally started making these conversions back when I could not locate the 1490 bulbs. I like the results so much, though, that I continue to do them even though I now know where to get the 3.2 volt bulb.

Thomas

:Hi
:
: These two bulbs are in series across a section of 35Z5 filament. If two #47 bulbs are in series you won't have enough voltage to light them properly. Best lighting is using 2 - 1490 bulbs.
:
:Norm

Thanks very much Norm and Thomas for your help. I had decided to get the 1490's in case I had other needs. Since I was going to try and align the lamps again today I went ahead and took the resistor out and replaced the 47's with 1490's. The lamps are brighter. My problem is still getting the lights positioned so the dial lights up ok. I may try some hoods someday. Right now my hands are beat up from so many attempts to get the lights in the right position.

Bill

:"When I make conversions like this so that I may use the more common #47 bulb (which is also brighter than the 3.2 volt bulb), I place a resistor from 39 to 45 ohms between the AC cord and pin 2 of the 35Z5. I then disconnect the pilot lamp connection from pin 2 and relocate it to the AC line connection. Usually this lights two #47 bulbs in series quite well."
:
:When a resistor is placed between the line cord and pin 2 of the 35Z5 tube, this effectively increases the resistance of the pilot lamp ballast filament within the tube, since resistance has been added to it. Relocating the pilot lamp lead that was on pin 2 to the resistor-line cord connection places the entire voltage drop of both the resistor and ballast filament on the pilot lamp leads. With this set-up it is possible to light two #47 bulbs in series to full brightness.
:
:Since these bulbs are sold at Radio Shack and most hardware stores, they are easily replaced, too. I originally started making these conversions back when I could not locate the 1490 bulbs. I like the results so much, though, that I continue to do them even though I now know where to get the 3.2 volt bulb.
:
:Thomas
:
::Hi
::
:: These two bulbs are in series across a section of 35Z5 filament. If two #47 bulbs are in series you won't have enough voltage to light them properly. Best lighting is using 2 - 1490 bulbs.
::
::Norm
:

:Thanks very much Norm and Thomas for your help. I had decided to get the 1490's in case I had other needs. Since I was going to try and align the lamps again today I went ahead and took the resistor out and replaced the 47's with 1490's. The lamps are brighter. My problem is still getting the lights positioned so the dial lights up ok. I may try some hoods someday. Right now my hands are beat up from so many attempts to get the lights in the right position.
:
:Bill
:
::"When I make conversions like this so that I may use the more common #47 bulb (which is also brighter than the 3.2 volt bulb), I place a resistor from 39 to 45 ohms between the AC cord and pin 2 of the 35Z5. I then disconnect the pilot lamp connection from pin 2 and relocate it to the AC line connection. Usually this lights two #47 bulbs in series quite well."
::
::When a resistor is placed between the line cord and pin 2 of the 35Z5 tube, this effectively increases the resistance of the pilot lamp ballast filament within the tube, since resistance has been added to it. Relocating the pilot lamp lead that was on pin 2 to the resistor-line cord connection places the entire voltage drop of both the resistor and ballast filament on the pilot lamp leads. With this set-up it is possible to light two #47 bulbs in series to full brightness.
::
::Since these bulbs are sold at Radio Shack and most hardware stores, they are easily replaced, too. I originally started making these conversions back when I could not locate the 1490 bulbs. I like the results so much, though, that I continue to do them even though I now know where to get the 3.2 volt bulb.
::
::Thomas
::
:::Hi
:::
::: These two bulbs are in series across a section of 35Z5 filament. If two #47 bulbs are in series you won't have enough voltage to light them properly. Best lighting is using 2 - 1490 bulbs.
:::
:::Norm

Bill,
Seems to me your original concern was the positioning of the bulbs so that they provided ample lighting for the dial. For what it's worth, I think that in some radios that is simply not possible. A case-in-point....I recently finished a Stewart-Warner 9000B. It has a single dial lamp mounted on a clip over the center of the slide-rule dial. The only adjustment possible is to slide the lamp forward or backward in relation to the dial glass (no side to side adjustment is possible). No matter HOW I positioned that bulb, a shadow resulted from the pointer moving in front of it. I finally had to accept the fact that I had to put up with that dang shadow, but if, for instance, the design had been with 2 bulbs on the ends of the dial it would have been a better arrangement. But, the fact remains....whoever owned that radio back in 1947 had to put up with the same shadow on the dial face....and I betcha he/she had the same complaint.
Dennis Wess.
::

::Thanks very much Norm and Thomas for your help. I had decided to get the 1490's in case I had other needs. Since I was going to try and align the lamps again today I went ahead and took the resistor out and replaced the 47's with 1490's. The lamps are brighter. My problem is still getting the lights positioned so the dial lights up ok. I may try some hoods someday. Right now my hands are beat up from so many attempts to get the lights in the right position.
::
::Bill
::
:::"When I make conversions like this so that I may use the more common #47 bulb (which is also brighter than the 3.2 volt bulb), I place a resistor from 39 to 45 ohms between the AC cord and pin 2 of the 35Z5. I then disconnect the pilot lamp connection from pin 2 and relocate it to the AC line connection. Usually this lights two #47 bulbs in series quite well."
:::
:::When a resistor is placed between the line cord and pin 2 of the 35Z5 tube, this effectively increases the resistance of the pilot lamp ballast filament within the tube, since resistance has been added to it. Relocating the pilot lamp lead that was on pin 2 to the resistor-line cord connection places the entire voltage drop of both the resistor and ballast filament on the pilot lamp leads. With this set-up it is possible to light two #47 bulbs in series to full brightness.
:::
:::Since these bulbs are sold at Radio Shack and most hardware stores, they are easily replaced, too. I originally started making these conversions back when I could not locate the 1490 bulbs. I like the results so much, though, that I continue to do them even though I now know where to get the 3.2 volt bulb.
:::
:::Thomas
:::
::::Hi
::::
:::: These two bulbs are in series across a section of 35Z5 filament. If two #47 bulbs are in series you won't have enough voltage to light them properly. Best lighting is using 2 - 1490 bulbs.
::::
::::Norm
:
:Bill,
: Seems to me your original concern was the positioning of the bulbs so that they provided ample lighting for the dial. For what it's worth, I think that in some radios that is simply not possible. A case-in-point....I recently finished a Stewart-Warner 9000B. It has a single dial lamp mounted on a clip over the center of the slide-rule dial. The only adjustment possible is to slide the lamp forward or backward in relation to the dial glass (no side to side adjustment is possible). No matter HOW I positioned that bulb, a shadow resulted from the pointer moving in front of it. I finally had to accept the fact that I had to put up with that dang shadow, but if, for instance, the design had been with 2 bulbs on the ends of the dial it would have been a better arrangement. But, the fact remains....whoever owned that radio back in 1947 had to put up with the same shadow on the dial face....and I betcha he/she had the same complaint.
:Dennis Wess.

Yes you are right about the designs and the placement of dial lights. Too many I've seen that must have been an afterthought. If they aren't burning the plastic dials they are just a light somewhere in the back. I'll just leave this along got enough to do. Spent too much time. Radio plays very well. Shortwave is ok too.

Bill

If the dial is a glass dial, it should be very easy to light. Just make sure that the filaments of the bulbs are in line with the glass. The light will then travel through the glass. If you don't have enough clearance for moving the bulbs, be sure to get bulbs which have the filament close to the top of the bulb. If the filament is really low, the bulb will bump into the radio case before the filament is in line with the glass. If the radio has one of those orange plastic slide indicators (I think the 66X1 has one, but I forgot), if the plastic is old, it won't catch the light properly anymore. The orange plastic I am talking about is the kind that is pink when looked at one way and orange when viewed from another angle. Light travels through it quite well, and it almost looks like a neon light sometimes. Radio Shack uses this plastic for the red line around the top of its revolving battery display. The orange slider in the 66X1 (again, if I am recalling the model number properly--has an L shaped dial glass) picks up light from the white line that runs across the dial. You'll notice that the numbers are painted on the rear of the glass so that they reflect light forward. The white line, however, is painted on the front so that it reflects light rearward. There are foam cushions on the bottom of the glass that don't allow any light under the glass. If you can't get the orange pointer thingy to light up from the white stripe on the glass, you can cut away the center portion of each foam piece, which will allow light down the middle of the dial from the sides. It won't look as neat, but at least the pointer will light up. Good luck with cutting a new plastic pointer. It's impossible.

Thomas

:If the dial is a glass dial, it should be very easy to light. Just make sure that the filaments of the bulbs are in line with the glass. The light will then travel through the glass. If you don't have enough clearance for moving the bulbs, be sure to get bulbs which have the filament close to the top of the bulb. If the filament is really low, the bulb will bump into the radio case before the filament is in line with the glass. If the radio has one of those orange plastic slide indicators (I think the 66X1 has one, but I forgot), if the plastic is old, it won't catch the light properly anymore. The orange plastic I am talking about is the kind that is pink when looked at one way and orange when viewed from another angle. Light travels through it quite well, and it almost looks like a neon light sometimes. Radio Shack uses this plastic for the red line around the top of its revolving battery display. The orange slider in the 66X1 (again, if I am recalling the model number properly--has an L shaped dial glass) picks up light from the white line that runs across the dial. You'll notice that the numbers are painted on the rear of the glass so that they reflect light forward. The white line, however, is painted on the front so that it reflects light rearward. There are foam cushions on the bottom of the glass that don't allow any light under the glass. If you can't get the orange pointer thingy to light up from the white stripe on the glass, you can cut away the center portion of each foam piece, which will allow light down the middle of the dial from the sides. It won't look as neat, but at least the pointer will light up. Good luck with cutting a new plastic pointer. It's impossible.
:
:Thomas

Thanks Thomas. If I get back to the set the first thing I plan on doing is replace the foam pieces.They have shrunken. My plastic pointer is ok.

Bill