I'm re-capping this radio and found a couple of wax-coated caps with size numbering I have not seen before. One is labeled 2 X .1 200V.D.C. it has one lead in, and one lead out, with a metal band around the middle that appears to be a mounting strap. This strap also has a couple of resistors soldered to it. Can I replace this with a .2? Is the strap part of an internal circuit? I have the same question for a cap labeled .03 X .001 400 V.D.C. Do I replace this with a .0001? Also, both of these are polarized.
Thanks,
Bill

Bill B first off do you have this schematic?

http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel/517/M0003517.pdf

Now if no one has tinkered with the set, don't disconnect the parts until you study the schematic and the parts list. You have some two-for-one caps in this set. The X is "by" and not "times" if that makes sense. Note one cap has two different values. The way I do these type of hook-ups is stick strickly to how they are connected. You would connect a good cap to where one lead coming out the end of the old cap goes. And then connect another good cap to the place where the other lead coming out the other end goes. The other ends of the good caps goes to the same place as the band or electrical equivalent. I don't see small valued polarized caps. The schematic shows parts 19, 20, and 21 as being electrolytic. Blow up the schematic and follow it. One electrolytic may look to be connected at that one spot but it isn't.

Bill

I'm re-capping this radio and found a couple of wax-coated caps with size numbering I have not seen before. One is labeled 2 X .1 200V.D.C. it has one lead in, and one lead out, with a metal band around the middle that appears to be a mounting strap. This strap also has a couple of resistors soldered to it. Can I replace this with a .2? Is the strap part of an internal circuit? I have the same question for a cap labeled .03 X .001 400 V.D.C. Do I replace this with a .0001? Also, both of these are polarized.
:Thanks,
:Bill

Hi, Bill. NOW this makes sense. Yes, I do have the schematic. I really appreciate your help.
Thanks,
Bill B

:Bill B first off do you have this schematic?
:
:http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel/517/M0003517.pdf
:
:Now if no one has tinkered with the set, don't disconnect the parts until you study the schematic and the parts list. You have some two-for-one caps in this set. The X is "by" and not "times" if that makes sense. Note one cap has two different values. The way I do these type of hook-ups is stick strickly to how they are connected. You would connect a good cap to where one lead coming out the end of the old cap goes. And then connect another good cap to the place where the other lead coming out the other end goes. The other ends of the good caps goes to the same place as the band or electrical equivalent. I don't see small valued polarized caps. The schematic shows parts 19, 20, and 21 as being electrolytic. Blow up the schematic and follow it. One electrolytic may look to be connected at that one spot but it isn't.
:
:Bill
:
:I'm re-capping this radio and found a couple of wax-coated caps with size numbering I have not seen before. One is labeled 2 X .1 200V.D.C. it has one lead in, and one lead out, with a metal band around the middle that appears to be a mounting strap. This strap also has a couple of resistors soldered to it. Can I replace this with a .2? Is the strap part of an internal circuit? I have the same question for a cap labeled .03 X .001 400 V.D.C. Do I replace this with a .0001? Also, both of these are polarized.
::Thanks,
::Bill

Bill B. - These caps wouldn't be polarized. They may have a printed band around one end? That would be the "foil side" of the cap, but for modern replacement caps it is unimportant.

IN other words, there are two condensers in one housing that use the band as a common termination point for both (one lead of each condenser goes to this band, and each condenser's other lead goes out the side of the housing).

You can also open up the old condenser, remove the guts, and install two new condensers of the same values as the old ones.

By the way, in case you didn't already know, when a condenser goes bad, it is not a good idea to parallel a new one with the old one. Disconnect the old one and then put in a new one. When condensers go bad, they either open up or more commonly get leaky. Keeping the old leaky condenser in the circuit still causes trouble even with a new condenser added. If the old condenser is open, it may at some point close again and cause strange operation of the set.

Thomas

:IN other words, there are two condensers in one housing that use the band as a common termination point for both (one lead of each condenser goes to this band, and each condenser's other lead goes out the side of the housing).
:
:You can also open up the old condenser, remove the guts, and install two new condensers of the same values as the old ones.
:
:By the way, in case you didn't already know, when a condenser goes bad, it is not a good idea to parallel a new one with the old one. Disconnect the old one and then put in a new one. When condensers go bad, they either open up or more commonly get leaky. Keeping the old leaky condenser in the circuit still causes trouble even with a new condenser added. If the old condenser is open, it may at some point close again and cause strange operation of the set.
:
:Thomas

I think I'll try that next time. Now I just have to replace the 3 electrolytics, and a new power cord, then She's ready to try out. This radio has a great, all original cabinet with the chrome grille.
Thanks,
Bill B

:Bill B. - These caps wouldn't be polarized. They may have a printed band around one end? That would be the "foil side" of the cap, but for modern replacement caps it is unimportant.

You are correct. Bill answered the question above. I had not seen caps like these before. They were covered with 71 years of dirt, and are really two caps in one body, as Bill stated, with the metal band around the middle actually being the single "common" end circuit for two different values. Neat design. Neat radio. Someone has been been into the chassis before, and bypassed the dual .02 X .02, coming off the volume control, one side to ground, and the other to the 6D6 I.F. with a single .1. to the 6D6. I replaced this as per the original schematic.
Thanks,
Bill B.