Also, what is the original color of the dial glass velvet on late 1930's RCA consoles (namely the 813K and 811K?) Mine is a medium brown, but I'm not sure if the color is original or if it has faded over the years.
I'd appreciate any help or suggestions anyone may have.
Thanks!
Larry Rickard
Unless you can actually get something to peel up with an application of a paint stripper, what you are seeing is likely what you have are seeing.
It is possible too that the accumulated grime of the years, cigarette smoke, air pollution, and sundry other sources of grime from storage may have coated the entire surface with a scum that is thick enough and even enough to appear as a laquer coating.
Normally the only protection would be found on the iron parts, and that would simply be a cold zinc plating. There would be no real beneficial reason to coat the aluminum fins with anything as aluminum forms it own oxide layer which acts as a protective coating of sorts. Brass condensor fins and frame pieces usually have no coating either.
Are you bead blasting with polyester bead? Or nut shells? There are some performance differences.
If you are blasting with polyester, or any other plastic, you may want to simply "dust" (blast lightly) with baking soda or very fine inert silica to remove the polyester deposits that do occur on the surface. Those deposits will cause "fisheye" if you paint the chassis with an "aluminum" paint (I have a chassis that the plating is exactly that color of Rust-o-leum) or any other color/type of paint. If you choose to strip the chassis and replate it, that polyester will cause problems too, in that it will prevent some adhesion in blasted areas.
If you are trying to simply come up with a quick way to protect the chassis without stripping it down to the bare metal chassis box, try an "airbrush"... You can get an exact match in paint at any autobody paint supply house that uses a "colormap" system, or if you ask them if they have a vendor that you can use to color map your chassis. I know it sounds goofy, and more work than it might be worth possibly, but if you are only needing to address a small portion of the chassis, it is a logical way to go. Check on price first. You may not want to pay as much as you will need to, most of the color map mixes are formulated for quart size and larger. Most "silver metallics" will be in the 30-40 dollar range per quart (or higher), if you use Sikkens, or PPG, you would not need to "seal" (spray a clearcoat/topcoat) them in this application. The drawback is that you would have enough paint to spray about 20 full chassis' with just one quart.
Skilled hands, and color mapped paint can look as good, or better, than re-plating because you are not changing the original chassis patina if you get your paint before you blast it. You can perform "spot repairs" that are just not possible with a plating tank or brush.
If you have doubts- I have an automotive background; including finishing; and can prove that with about 600 pounds of polyester bead material, which is why my answer may seem out of the ordinary. Additionally if you are interested in that large of an amount of bead material- drop me a line... I do trades.
As to the color of the flocking- If it did fade, it would have faded from a dark brown. If there is a folded tab over part of the background, it should reveal some pristene, or close to pristene coloring. Chances are that there was only slight fading on the background. I do not have either model available to me to verify, but this is an alternate method.
If it has bald spots, there may not be ay really "good" way to perform "spot repairs" that would not be noticed.
If you need to reflock, or match it as closely as possible, "WoodCraft" does sell "flocking" kits, as does "Rockler".
: While bead-blasting an RCA 3-gang tuning cap I noticed that there seems to be a thin coating over the metal. I presume that it is some sort of rust-preventive lacquer, but am not sure. In any case, what can I use to prevent rust on the chassis and other parts once I'm finished cleaning?
: Also, what is the original color of the dial glass velvet on late 1930's RCA consoles (namely the 813K and 811K?) Mine is a medium brown, but I'm not sure if the color is original or if it has faded over the years.
: I'd appreciate any help or suggestions anyone may have.
: Thanks!
: Larry Rickard
Thank you for your reply to my questions on Nostalgia Air.
What I'm actually doing is restoring an RCA 811K to its original
appearance, as it would have looked to my cousin (the original owner) as
he opened the packing crate. Of course, the cabinet will still show a
few of the dings it has accumulated over the years, and the electronics
in the chassis will be completely rebuilt. Electronically, the only
original things left will be things like the tuning cap, trimmer caps,
tube sockets, coils and RF transformers. I'm restoring this radio for
sentimental reasons, so I'm not very worried about leaving things TOO
original.
This particular radio sat (with its chassis removed and lying nearby)
in my grandmother's leaky, drafty shed for 25 years. When I removed the
thick layer of dust from the chassis I was greeted with quite a bit of
rust, especially where the wiring harness made contact. I figured the
only way to get rid of it would be to bead blast.
I'm blasting the entire chassis with fine glass beads. These do a
great job of cleaning off years of corrosion and leave an exceptionally
nice, satin finish to the metal, but I'm afraid if I leave it
unprotected too long, rust will once again claim it. Most guys I know
who sandblast metal for a living tell me not to touch the workpiece with
your bare hands after the job is done, because rust will appear wherever
your fingers made contact.
I am interested to know what differences there are between the
polyester beads you mention and the glass ones I'm currently using. I'd
also like to know how ground nutshells perform. I'm new to the antique
radio hobby and even newer to this bead/sand blasting business, so
please forgive my ignorance. I currently get five-pound cans of glass
beads at Northern Hydraulic here in North Carolina for about 15 bucks,
aluminum oxide (different weight but same size can) for 30 bucks, and
ground walnut shells for about 7-8 bucks.
My apologies for the long-winded message, but you've been a great
help. Please let me know what you think.
With regards for a great New Year,
Larry Rickard