HEY GUYS
I HAVE A ZENITH 5F134 THAT DOES NOT HAVE THE VIBRATOR SUPPLY UNIT WITH IT. THE SCHEMATIC SHOWS THAT WHEN YOU USE CERTAIN BATTERY TYPES YOU EITHER USE VIBRATOR SUPPLY UNIT, OR JUMPERS, OR BALLAST TUBE. IS THERE A WAY TO CONVERT TO 110 USING SAME TUBE CONFIGURATION, AND NOT HAVE TO USE A TRANSFORMER? THE RADIO IS IN GREAT SHAPE, AND WOULD REALLY BE GOOD IF YOU COULD USE 100. THANKS

Yes you can, in a jumpered configuration for A, B, and C batteries, just use some of the circuits for "battery eliminators" or primarily "B Battery Eliminators". With a resistor network you can get your "C" voltage taps, and your B voltage taps. a simple power supply for the A voltages may be as simple as a 6.3 volt transformer if the 6 volt tubes are also used in AC applications.

:HEY GUYS
:I HAVE A ZENITH 5F134 THAT DOES NOT HAVE THE VIBRATOR SUPPLY UNIT WITH IT. THE SCHEMATIC SHOWS THAT WHEN YOU USE CERTAIN BATTERY TYPES YOU EITHER USE VIBRATOR SUPPLY UNIT, OR JUMPERS, OR BALLAST TUBE. IS THERE A WAY TO CONVERT TO 110 USING SAME TUBE CONFIGURATION, AND NOT HAVE TO USE A TRANSFORMER? THE RADIO IS IN GREAT SHAPE, AND WOULD REALLY BE GOOD IF YOU COULD USE 100. THANKS

:Yes you can, in a jumpered configuration for A, B, and C batteries, just use some of the circuits for "battery eliminators" or primarily "B Battery Eliminators". With a resistor network you can get your "C" voltage taps, and your B voltage taps. a simple power supply for the A voltages may be as simple as a 6.3 volt transformer if the 6 volt tubes are also used in AC applications.
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::HEY GUYS
::I HAVE A ZENITH 5F134 THAT DOES NOT HAVE THE VIBRATOR SUPPLY UNIT WITH IT. THE SCHEMATIC SHOWS THAT WHEN YOU USE CERTAIN BATTERY TYPES YOU EITHER USE VIBRATOR SUPPLY UNIT, OR JUMPERS, OR BALLAST TUBE. IS THERE A WAY TO CONVERT TO 110 USING SAME TUBE CONFIGURATION, AND NOT HAVE TO USE A TRANSFORMER? THE RADIO IS IN GREAT SHAPE, AND WOULD REALLY BE GOOD IF YOU COULD USE 100. THANKS
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THE TUBE HEATERS ARE 2 VOLTS AND THE FILIMENTS ARE AS HIGH AS 153 VOLTS. HOW DO I GET THE 153 VOLTS?

Since this radio uses >1.5< volt tubes, you could wire it like a Zenith portable. Changing the vibrator socket for an octal socket, you could use the 117Z6 and then wire the chassis with appropriate ballast resistors, etc. You are probably better off just purchasing the battery eliminator kit from www.tubesandmore.com. This kit will supply the necessary voltages (up to 135 volts, which is alright).

Thomas

:Since this radio uses >1.5< volt tubes, you could wire it like a Zenith portable. Changing the vibrator socket for an octal socket, you could use the 117Z6 and then wire the chassis with appropriate ballast resistors, etc. You are probably better off just purchasing the battery eliminator kit from www.tubesandmore.com. This kit will supply the necessary voltages (up to 135 volts, which is alright).
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:Thomas
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Well, the transoceanic way sounds to be the best so I won't have a bunch of stuff out of the case. Putting the tube in won't be much trouble, but will the tube give me the necessary votage for the filiments?

The voltage for the filaments, like the transoceanic, will be achieved through ballast resistors. The tubes will be wired in series. Figuring all of this out is a challenge, though, and will take me some time. Biasing is a trick when the filaments are wired in series, and I haven't consulted a tube manual yet to see if the amperages of all the filaments are the same. We shall see. Also, if you wanted to use a 6 pin tube instead of the 117Z6 octal, to keep the tubes looking more alike, you could use a 25Z5, but this would require a ballast resistor for the filament.

The whole idea is a fairly big conversion. Some may say that it would depreciate the value of the set. Still, when done it will allow you to use the radio on AC with no hassle. For me, I have no real sentimental thing for vibrator radios except for in cars, and though I like to keep things all original, I would rather have a radio that works on AC than one that requires a large battery or converter. The vibrator can detract from the listening experience, too. Still, if there was room inside the radio and you used a solid state vibrator, you could place a small power supply inside the radio. This would allow the radio to be original. Solid state vibrators do not make a mechanical noise, and they don't generate radio frequency noises, either. They are exceptionally reliable.

Thomas

:The voltage for the filaments, like the transoceanic, will be achieved through ballast resistors. The tubes will be wired in series. Figuring all of this out is a challenge, though, and will take me some time. Biasing is a trick when the filaments are wired in series, and I haven't consulted a tube manual yet to see if the amperages of all the filaments are the same. We shall see. Also, if you wanted to use a 6 pin tube instead of the 117Z6 octal, to keep the tubes looking more alike, you could use a 25Z5, but this would require a ballast resistor for the filament.
:
:The whole idea is a fairly big conversion. Some may say that it would depreciate the value of the set. Still, when done it will allow you to use the radio on AC with no hassle. For me, I have no real sentimental thing for vibrator radios except for in cars, and though I like to keep things all original, I would rather have a radio that works on AC than one that requires a large battery or converter. The vibrator can detract from the listening experience, too. Still, if there was room inside the radio and you used a solid state vibrator, you could place a small power supply inside the radio. This would allow the radio to be original. Solid state vibrators do not make a mechanical noise, and they don't generate radio frequency noises, either. They are exceptionally reliable.
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:Thomas
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I have a 8G005 chassis with all of the goodies still in pretty good shape. I bought it for parts. Could I use the rectifier section in the radio and make the 5f134 work?

First it has to be determined whether the tubes may be run in series or not...whether their amperages are all the same..... I forgot to do this, so I will consult my tube manual.

If you do not need the chassis, you may use parts from it. Otherwise parts are readily available elsewhere, such as the socket and the electrolytics and the ballast resistor.