Need help identifying model number. I just received my grandmothers console radio. The label is intact "except" where it has Model it is blank. It says super-heterodyne, Hazeltine Corporation. Where the tubes sit there is a number 1400718 stamped and on the bottom where the grill is on the metal is is stamped 8899. Thank y ou!

:Need help identifying model number. I just received my grandmothers console radio. The label is intact "except" where it has Model it is blank. It says super-heterodyne, Hazeltine Corporation. Where the tubes sit there is a number 1400718 stamped and on the bottom where the grill is on the metal is is stamped 8899. Thank y ou!

There usually is a label on the inside walls of the cabinet with the tube layout. This is where the mod number is usually found.

Always helps to know the brand name, too. Perhaps if you give us the brand name and the tubes it uses, and all those other little goodies like that, someone can come up with something. Just about every superheterodyne says that it's licensed by the Hazeltine Corporation. I know what RCA is, but I have no clue as to what Hazeltine is. Regardless of what I know and don't know, all superhets are licensed by both Hazeltine and RCA, so any radio could have this info. on the back label. Give details.

Peace out,

T.

:Always helps to know the brand name, too. Perhaps if you give us the brand name and the tubes it uses, and all those other little goodies like that, someone can come up with something. Just about every superheterodyne says that it's licensed by the Hazeltine Corporation. I know what RCA is, but I have no clue as to what Hazeltine is. Regardless of what I know and don't know, all superhets are licensed by both Hazeltine and RCA, so any radio could have this info. on the back label. Give details.
:
:Peace out,
:
:T.

::Always helps to know the brand name, too. Perhaps if you give us the brand name and the tubes it uses, and all those other little goodies like that, someone can come up with something. Just about every superheterodyne says that it's licensed by the Hazeltine Corporation. I know what RCA is, but I have no clue as to what Hazeltine is. Regardless of what I know and don't know, all superhets are licensed by both Hazeltine and RCA, so any radio could have this info. on the back label. Give details.
::
::Peace out,
::
::T.

:::Always helps to know the brand name, too. Perhaps if you give us the brand name and the tubes it uses, and all those other little goodies like that, someone can come up with something. Just about every superheterodyne says that it's licensed by the Hazeltine Corporation. I know what RCA is, but I have no clue as to what Hazeltine is. Regardless of what I know and don't know, all superhets are licensed by both Hazeltine and RCA, so any radio could have this info. on the back label. Give details.
:::
:::Peace out,
:::
:::T.

Oops, forgot the most important part! Its a coronado. And obviously I'm so new at this that I'm not sure what you mean by tube layout (its missing a label of any type for that) but on the base of the tuner itself where the tubes are are the following numbers: 233,232,230,34, and 232. Does this help? I appreciate the responses. Kathie

Well, some of those could be tube numbers, as really old tube numbers looked something like that, but many of them don't pull up tube types. If the tubes are still in the radio, the number will be listed on them if it hasn't washed off somehow. It'll be plainly marked on the tube (just the number), in an octagon (stop sign), or in a circle. Sometimes it can be in some other figure, but these are standard. Depending on the era of the radio, here are some basic numbers to go by when looking for the number on your tubes: 2A3, 6F6G (6F6), 80, 57, 6SK7 (6SK7GT), 50L6GT, 6A8G (6A8), 47, 41, 42. If the tubes are large with a 4, 5, 6, or 7 pin base, they'll have numbers like 41, 42, 47, 80, 2A3, 57, etc. If they have an 8 pin base with a keyway in the middle, they'll more likely have numbers like 6F6G, 6SK7. Really small tubes with 7 or 9 pin bases will have similar numbers to the 8 pin tubes just mentioned.

You may also find tube numbers stamped on the sockets themselves. Pull a tube and see what's on the socket.

List other details like the bands that the radio has, whether or not it has a phonograph, the approximate speaker size, etc. Tell what controls are on front (push buttons, band switch, tone control--either variable or multi-position, volume and on/off, what control the on/off switch is linked to, if any).

Thomas

:Well, some of those could be tube numbers, as really old tube numbers looked something like that, but many of them don't pull up tube types. If the tubes are still in the radio, the number will be listed on them if it hasn't washed off somehow. It'll be plainly marked on the tube (just the number), in an octagon (stop sign), or in a circle. Sometimes it can be in some other figure, but these are standard. Depending on the era of the radio, here are some basic numbers to go by when looking for the number on your tubes: 2A3, 6F6G (6F6), 80, 57, 6SK7 (6SK7GT), 50L6GT, 6A8G (6A8), 47, 41, 42. If the tubes are large with a 4, 5, 6, or 7 pin base, they'll have numbers like 41, 42, 47, 80, 2A3, 57, etc. If they have an 8 pin base with a keyway in the middle, they'll more likely have numbers like 6F6G, 6SK7. Really small tubes with 7 or 9 pin bases will have similar numbers to the 8 pin tubes just mentioned.
:
:You may also find tube numbers stamped on the sockets themselves. Pull a tube and see what's on the socket.
:
:List other details like the bands that the radio has, whether or not it has a phonograph, the approximate speaker size, etc. Tell what controls are on front (push buttons, band switch, tone control--either variable or multi-position, volume and on/off, what control the on/off switch is linked to, if any).
:
:Thomas

Wow mine must be a Plain Jane and I know it is older than 1937 as it was my grandmothers and she died in 1937. And I am pretty sure it was bought at Montgomery Wards. It is only a radio console (no phonograph); no bands just a small black knob that turns a paper dial that starts with the numbers 550-1500. There is only one speaker and is about 6" in diameter. The tubes are large and say: Wards superairline 32; Coronado base #34; Coronado base #230; supersilvertone 32 and 5CX; and Coronado C72. None have a keyway. Thank you for taking all this time to help me I really appreciate it. Kathie

::Well, some of those could be tube numbers, as really old tube numbers looked something like that, but many of them don't pull up tube types. If the tubes are still in the radio, the number will be listed on them if it hasn't washed off somehow. It'll be plainly marked on the tube (just the number), in an octagon (stop sign), or in a circle. Sometimes it can be in some other figure, but these are standard. Depending on the era of the radio, here are some basic numbers to go by when looking for the number on your tubes: 2A3, 6F6G (6F6), 80, 57, 6SK7 (6SK7GT), 50L6GT, 6A8G (6A8), 47, 41, 42. If the tubes are large with a 4, 5, 6, or 7 pin base, they'll have numbers like 41, 42, 47, 80, 2A3, 57, etc. If they have an 8 pin base with a keyway in the middle, they'll more likely have numbers like 6F6G, 6SK7. Really small tubes with 7 or 9 pin bases will have similar numbers to the 8 pin tubes just mentioned.
::
::You may also find tube numbers stamped on the sockets themselves. Pull a tube and see what's on the socket.
::
::List other details like the bands that the radio has, whether or not it has a phonograph, the approximate speaker size, etc. Tell what controls are on front (push buttons, band switch, tone control--either variable or multi-position, volume and on/off, what control the on/off switch is linked to, if any).
::
::Thomas
:
:Wow mine must be a Plain Jane and I know it is older than 1937 as it was my grandmothers and she died in 1937. And I am pretty sure it was bought at Montgomery Wards. It is only a radio console (no phonograph); no bands just a small black knob that turns a paper dial that starts with the numbers 550-1500. There is only one speaker and is about 6" in diameter. The tubes are large and say: Wards superairline 32; Coronado base #34; Coronado base #230; supersilvertone 32 and 5CX; and Coronado C72. None have a keyway. Thank you for taking all this time to help me I really appreciate it. Kathie

::Well, some of those could be tube numbers, as really old tube numbers looked something like that, but many of them don't pull up tube types. If the tubes are still in the radio, the number will be listed on them if it hasn't washed off somehow. It'll be plainly marked on the tube (just the number), in an octagon (stop sign), or in a circle. Sometimes it can be in some other figure, but these are standard. Depending on the era of the radio, here are some basic numbers to go by when looking for the number on your tubes: 2A3, 6F6G (6F6), 80, 57, 6SK7 (6SK7GT), 50L6GT, 6A8G (6A8), 47, 41, 42. If the tubes are large with a 4, 5, 6, or 7 pin base, they'll have numbers like 41, 42, 47, 80, 2A3, 57, etc. If they have an 8 pin base with a keyway in the middle, they'll more likely have numbers like 6F6G, 6SK7. Really small tubes with 7 or 9 pin bases will have similar numbers to the 8 pin tubes just mentioned.
::
::You may also find tube numbers stamped on the sockets themselves. Pull a tube and see what's on the socket.
::
::List other details like the bands that the radio has, whether or not it has a phonograph, the approximate speaker size, etc. Tell what controls are on front (push buttons, band switch, tone control--either variable or multi-position, volume and on/off, what control the on/off switch is linked to, if any).
::
::Thomas
:
:Wow mine must be a Plain Jane and I know it is older than 1937 as it was my grandmothers and she died in 1937. And I am pretty sure it was bought at Montgomery Wards. It is only a radio console (no phonograph); no bands just a small black knob that turns a paper dial that starts with the numbers 550-1500. There is only one speaker and is about 6" in diameter. The tubes are large and say: Wards superairline 32; Coronado base #34; Coronado base #230; supersilvertone 32 and 5CX; and Coronado C72. None have a keyway. Thank you for taking all this time to help me I really appreciate it. Kathie

P.S. I can email a picture if you like.

A picture is fine. Anyone who responds to your posting may be contacted by clicking on their name above and to the left, as you see my name here on this page. If it turns light blue, then they left an e-mail address, and you can click on it. You must be reading their posting in order to get their name.

Thomas

Are you sure that it is a Coronado? Wards sold Airline radios. These are legitimate tube numbers: 72, 32, 30, and 34. Did that Silvertone say both 32 and 5CX or just 32, and 5CX is a separate tube? I do not know of any 5CX type tubes, though someone else in here may know of this type.

I will try to come up with something by searching Airlien and Coronado. Your radio is not plain-Jane, but the items I listed are simply optional things you may find on certain radios, whether they be consols or table models, etc. Also, on this radio, do you see anything that may look like a power transformer? Perhaps an empty 4 pin tube socket? If you do not know what a power transformer looks like, this is okay. I am trying to figure out whether this radio is an AC or battery type radio. You did not list a power rectifier tube (4 pin socket, possibly a type 80 tube). Does this radio have an AC cord or a bunch of wires and cables, plugs, or perhaps a thick red and black wire, each with a clip similar to those used on your jumper cables for your car? The AC cord would make this an AC radio. The bunch of wires and perhaps various types of plugs would likely make this a radio requiring a separate A and B battery. Two wires, likely red and black, with clips on the ends, would make this a 6 volt radio that would be operated off of a 6 volt automotive battery. The battery types of radios would have likely been used in a remote location where no power was available (farm). If this happens to be a battery type radio, do not worry, as power supplies are available/can be built for the radio.

Thomas

:Are you sure that it is a Coronado? Wards sold Airline radios. These are legitimate tube numbers: 72, 32, 30, and 34. Did that Silvertone say both 32 and 5CX or just 32, and 5CX is a separate tube? I do not know of any 5CX type tubes, though someone else in here may know of this type.
:
:I will try to come up with something by searching Airlien and Coronado. Your radio is not plain-Jane, but the items I listed are simply optional things you may find on certain radios, whether they be consols or table models, etc. Also, on this radio, do you see anything that may look like a power transformer? Perhaps an empty 4 pin tube socket? If you do not know what a power transformer looks like, this is okay. I am trying to figure out whether this radio is an AC or battery type radio. You did not list a power rectifier tube (4 pin socket, possibly a type 80 tube). Does this radio have an AC cord or a bunch of wires and cables, plugs, or perhaps a thick red and black wire, each with a clip similar to those used on your jumper cables for your car? The AC cord would make this an AC radio. The bunch of wires and perhaps various types of plugs would likely make this a radio requiring a separate A and B battery. Two wires, likely red and black, with clips on the ends, would make this a 6 volt radio that would be operated off of a 6 volt automotive battery. The battery types of radios would have likely been used in a remote location where no power was available (farm). If this happens to be a battery type radio, do not worry, as power supplies are available/can be built for the radio.
:
:Thomas

Okay, now maybe we can both be operating off the same page. I know it is a Coronado as the silver emblem surrounding the paper dial with numbers says Coronado. And it is battery operated as the original paper label (that says Model and then the number was never stamped in) says battery operated and has the wires running down with clips (not black and red) and it was used on a farm without electricity. I phoned my mother and she said her father and mother (she was 8 years old) brought it to Idaho with them from Nebraska in 1938 and she remembers hooking it up to a car battery. These battery wires are all frayed, etc. so where do I purchase the power supplies, etc.? And also, the one tube does say supersilverstone with a 32 in the circle and then stamped on the side 5cx.

As I said before THANKS! Kathie

As for the Silvertone tube (Sears sold Silvertone....was their line of radios like Wards had Airline), 32 is the tube number. 5CX is another code on the tube like a date code or something. That said, the tubes in your radio are 72, 32, 32, 30, and 34, not necessarily in that order.

As for a power supply, unless you want to get technical, what you can do is go to Batteries Plus and purchase a 600 cold cranking ampere 6 volt automotive battery. They cost about $45, and last at least 4 years on an automobile. For a radio, I bet they would last longer. Then you can purchase a car battery charger from any good place (NAPA, Batteries Plus, Sears, etc.). It must have both a 6 and 12 volt position on it. You should never charge the battery in the house, as it will release hydrogen gas, which is explosive. You must be very careful when handling the battery, as if you tip it, the corrosive and very dangerous acid will spill out. It must be set on a surface that will be able to hold the acid (tin pan, etc.), so that there is no chance that any acid will get on your floor. If you had a way to run wires out of the house, you could put the battery in the garage or in a small waterproof box outside the house. If it was in the garage, you could also keep the charger wired to it.

Other than that, you build an external power supply. It can either be a 6 volt DC supply, or it can supply both 6 volts for the filaments of the tubes and also the required B voltages for the plates of the tubes (this will be several hundred volts). Building such a power supply is not too expensive. You will not spend more than $80. The other option is to modify the power supply within the radio and put in an AC power supply in its place. This modifies the radio, and though in this case it is something I would do because I find external power supplies and batteries cumbersome, it may ruin the value of the radio depending on how you do it and who would want to purchase the radio from you any time in the future. I am all about keeping radios original, but in this case I would just like to plug it in and listen to it. Auto battery radios have vibrators, which make noise and can fail more-so than other parts in the radio, and can detract from the listening experience. I guess I can't really say that, though, because my car, a 1951 Chevrolet, the only car I own or ever did own, since 1998, has a vibrator operated radio. The radio picks up an incredible amount of stations, is pleasant to listen to, and is very reliable. Certainly purchasing a battery and a charger for your radio is the easiest route to go. For now, if you get the radio working properly, you may just want to go that route. It's easy, and it will give you quick enjoyment without having to build a separate power supply.

Anyway.....I will search and see if I can't find a schematic of your radio on this site. That will give you lots of information that you need, like the model.

Thomas

:As for the Silvertone tube (Sears sold Silvertone....was their line of radios like Wards had Airline), 32 is the tube number. 5CX is another code on the tube like a date code or something. That said, the tubes in your radio are 72, 32, 32, 30, and 34, not necessarily in that order.
:
:As for a power supply, unless you want to get technical, what you can do is go to Batteries Plus and purchase a 600 cold cranking ampere 6 volt automotive battery. They cost about $45, and last at least 4 years on an automobile. For a radio, I bet they would last longer. Then you can purchase a car battery charger from any good place (NAPA, Batteries Plus, Sears, etc.). It must have both a 6 and 12 volt position on it. You should never charge the battery in the house, as it will release hydrogen gas, which is explosive. You must be very careful when handling the battery, as if you tip it, the corrosive and very dangerous acid will spill out. It must be set on a surface that will be able to hold the acid (tin pan, etc.), so that there is no chance that any acid will get on your floor. If you had a way to run wires out of the house, you could put the battery in the garage or in a small waterproof box outside the house. If it was in the garage, you could also keep the charger wired to it.
:
:Other than that, you build an external power supply. It can either be a 6 volt DC supply, or it can supply both 6 volts for the filaments of the tubes and also the required B voltages for the plates of the tubes (this will be several hundred volts). Building such a power supply is not too expensive. You will not spend more than $80. The other option is to modify the power supply within the radio and put in an AC power supply in its place. This modifies the radio, and though in this case it is something I would do because I find external power supplies and batteries cumbersome, it may ruin the value of the radio depending on how you do it and who would want to purchase the radio from you any time in the future. I am all about keeping radios original, but in this case I would just like to plug it in and listen to it. Auto battery radios have vibrators, which make noise and can fail more-so than other parts in the radio, and can detract from the listening experience. I guess I can't really say that, though, because my car, a 1951 Chevrolet, the only car I own or ever did own, since 1998, has a vibrator operated radio. The radio picks up an incredible amount of stations, is pleasant to listen to, and is very reliable. Certainly purchasing a battery and a charger for your radio is the easiest route to go. For now, if you get the radio working properly, you may just want to go that route. It's easy, and it will give you quick enjoyment without having to build a separate power supply.
:
:Anyway.....I will search and see if I can't find a schematic of your radio on this site. That will give you lots of information that you need, like the model.
:
:Thomas

Thomas: first off you have been such a wealth of information! My husband and I have researched the internet extensively and everything we came upon was so technical - to the point my husband just turned the whole thing over to me - lots of luck I said. Second, your car is the year I was born! Wow!

We are building a history on this radio to put inside it where children/grandchildren will have ALL the information so you have contributed greatly to this...I just want to be able to show off "grandmas" radio and actually turn it on! Hopefully, it will stay in the family for another 100+ years.Mom had 2 other sisters and each got something of their mothers and mom thought she got the raw end of the deal so I can't wait to show it to her and her sisters "up and running". Mom remembers the "great" sound it had but then on the farm with no elec. I suppose it did have a great sound..tee hee. Kathie

::As for the Silvertone tube (Sears sold Silvertone....was their line of radios like Wards had Airline), 32 is the tube number. 5CX is another code on the tube like a date code or something. That said, the tubes in your radio are 72, 32, 32, 30, and 34, not necessarily in that order.
::
::As for a power supply, unless you want to get technical, what you can do is go to Batteries Plus and purchase a 600 cold cranking ampere 6 volt automotive battery. They cost about $45, and last at least 4 years on an automobile. For a radio, I bet they would last longer. Then you can purchase a car battery charger from any good place (NAPA, Batteries Plus, Sears, etc.). It must have both a 6 and 12 volt position on it. You should never charge the battery in the house, as it will release hydrogen gas, which is explosive. You must be very careful when handling the battery, as if you tip it, the corrosive and very dangerous acid will spill out. It must be set on a surface that will be able to hold the acid (tin pan, etc.), so that there is no chance that any acid will get on your floor. If you had a way to run wires out of the house, you could put the battery in the garage or in a small waterproof box outside the house. If it was in the garage, you could also keep the charger wired to it.
::
::Other than that, you build an external power supply. It can either be a 6 volt DC supply, or it can supply both 6 volts for the filaments of the tubes and also the required B voltages for the plates of the tubes (this will be several hundred volts). Building such a power supply is not too expensive. You will not spend more than $80. The other option is to modify the power supply within the radio and put in an AC power supply in its place. This modifies the radio, and though in this case it is something I would do because I find external power supplies and batteries cumbersome, it may ruin the value of the radio depending on how you do it and who would want to purchase the radio from you any time in the future. I am all about keeping radios original, but in this case I would just like to plug it in and listen to it. Auto battery radios have vibrators, which make noise and can fail more-so than other parts in the radio, and can detract from the listening experience. I guess I can't really say that, though, because my car, a 1951 Chevrolet, the only car I own or ever did own, since 1998, has a vibrator operated radio. The radio picks up an incredible amount of stations, is pleasant to listen to, and is very reliable. Certainly purchasing a battery and a charger for your radio is the easiest route to go. For now, if you get the radio working properly, you may just want to go that route. It's easy, and it will give you quick enjoyment without having to build a separate power supply.
::
::Anyway.....I will search and see if I can't find a schematic of your radio on this site. That will give you lots of information that you need, like the model.
::
::Thomas
:
:Thomas: first off you have been such a wealth of information! My husband and I have researched the internet extensively and everything we came upon was so technical - to the point my husband just turned the whole thing over to me - lots of luck I said. Second, your car is the year I was born! Wow!
:
:We are building a history on this radio to put inside it where children/grandchildren will have ALL the information so you have contributed greatly to this...I just want to be able to show off "grandmas" radio and actually turn it on! Hopefully, it will stay in the family for another 100+ years.Mom had 2 other sisters and each got something of their mothers and mom thought she got the raw end of the deal so I can't wait to show it to her and her sisters "up and running". Mom remembers the "great" sound it had but then on the farm with no elec. I suppose it did have a great sound..tee hee. Kathie

Kathie I don't know where you are located but you might have an antique radio club in your town which
would be great help in bringing your radio back to life
the right way.

Bob

Well, I try. I am very good at repairing radios, but I certainly don't know all there is to know. I am kind of too young to know a ton about radios. Most of the people alive to-day do not know all the in's and out's of radio because a lot of the people who knew the information originally are dead now. Really technical information, besides simply replacing components, is hard to come by. It is annoying to me, because there is so much more that I wish to learn, and I can't ask any questions because noone knows the answers.

Usually those radios sounded really good. The only radios that tend to lack bass, etc., of that vintage, are the portable ones, and even those can sound really good. Of course from model to model and manufacturer to manufacturer, some will sound great and some will sound just okay. If your speaker is a 6 inch or bigger, and the cabinet is of decent size, chances are the radio will sound very good.

As for repairing the radio, a local radio club can be helpful, but I can give you most of the knowledge you will need in order to fix the radio, and I will explain it so that you can visualize it well. As soon as I can find the model number for this radio, you can get started with checking it out. I searched a whole bunch of numbers last night, but then this site went down.

Thomas

:Well, I try. I am very good at repairing radios, but I certainly don't know all there is to know. I am kind of too young to know a ton about radios. Most of the people alive to-day do not know all the in's and out's of radio because a lot of the people who knew the information originally are dead now. Really technical information, besides simply replacing components, is hard to come by. It is annoying to me, because there is so much more that I wish to learn, and I can't ask any questions because noone knows the answers.
:
:Usually those radios sounded really good. The only radios that tend to lack bass, etc., of that vintage, are the portable ones, and even those can sound really good. Of course from model to model and manufacturer to manufacturer, some will sound great and some will sound just okay. If your speaker is a 6 inch or bigger, and the cabinet is of decent size, chances are the radio will sound very good.
:
:As for repairing the radio, a local radio club can be helpful, but I can give you most of the knowledge you will need in order to fix the radio, and I will explain it so that you can visualize it well. As soon as I can find the model number for this radio, you can get started with checking it out. I searched a whole bunch of numbers last night, but then this site went down.
:
:Thomas

A thank you to all of you who are helping me. We live in a small eastern Washington state town and resources for far and few between. I will research if their are any vintage radio clubs but I highly doubt it. There is one gentlement who works on vintage radios but I don't think is too computer savy as he told me tubes are hard to find and a power pack will be $125. Sounds to me like a power pack is the way to go. Kathie

Hi Kathie,
I think I have found an ID for your radio. Coronado model 501 uses the following tube lineup:
30 Oscillator
32 1st Detector
34 IF amp
32 2nd Detector
33 AF
This matches the tubes you mentioned. Rider schematic is available here on NostalgiaAir, from the home page click on "Resources", then click on "Coronado" (Gamble-Skogmo, Inc.), then from the list of model numbers click on "501". This will show Rider page 7-41, which you can view, download, or print. Most radios which were covered in Rider Volume VII were manufactured from late 1935 to late 1936.

Poston

:
:Okay, now maybe we can both be operating off the same page. I know it is a Coronado as the silver emblem surrounding the paper dial with numbers says Coronado. And it is battery operated as the original paper label (that says Model and then the number was never stamped in) says battery operated and has the wires running down with clips (not black and red) and it was used on a farm without electricity. I phoned my mother and she said her father and mother (she was 8 years old) brought it to Idaho with them from Nebraska in 1938 and she remembers hooking it up to a car battery. These battery wires are all frayed, etc. so where do I purchase the power supplies, etc.? And also, the one tube does say supersilverstone with a 32 in the circle and then stamped on the side 5cx.
:
:As I said before THANKS! Kathie

Perhaps someone used a #72 as a substitute for the #33? I can't find my tube manual right now, and the basing diagram isn't listed on here.

T.

:Hi Kathie,
:I think I have found an ID for your radio. Coronado model 501 uses the following tube lineup:
:30 Oscillator
:32 1st Detector
:34 IF amp
:32 2nd Detector
:33 AF
:This matches the tubes you mentioned. Rider schematic is available here on NostalgiaAir, from the home page click on "Resources", then click on "Coronado" (Gamble-Skogmo, Inc.), then from the list of model numbers click on "501". This will show Rider page 7-41, which you can view, download, or print. Most radios which were covered in Rider Volume VII were manufactured from late 1935 to late 1936.
:
:Poston
:
:
::
::Okay, now maybe we can both be operating off the same page. I know it is a Coronado as the silver emblem surrounding the paper dial with numbers says Coronado. And it is battery operated as the original paper label (that says Model and then the number was never stamped in) says battery operated and has the wires running down with clips (not black and red) and it was used on a farm without electricity. I phoned my mother and she said her father and mother (she was 8 years old) brought it to Idaho with them from Nebraska in 1938 and she remembers hooking it up to a car battery. These battery wires are all frayed, etc. so where do I purchase the power supplies, etc.? And also, the one tube does say supersilverstone with a 32 in the circle and then stamped on the side 5cx.
::
::As I said before THANKS! Kathie

Well, the #501 doesn't have a vibrator supply, so that won't work. I've checked all the way from the 400s to the 900s so far. Have to check all the other models.

T.D.

:Well, the #501 doesn't have a vibrator supply, so that won't work. I've checked all the way from the 400s to the 900s so far. Have to check all the other models.
:
:T.D.

Oh boy Thomas am I REALLY confused....are you saying my radio has a vibrator supply and if so what leads you to know that. Gosh, these ole timers were pretty complicated in my opinion! My husband,Doug, did go to the schematic Poston said and taking a quick glance said it was not ours. I did find out from my mothers sister that the radio was bought in Nebraska and brought out here to Idaho in 1938 so the years 1935-36 would sure fit. We are headed over to Seattle this morning and back late Friday evening so will check back on this site Sat. Have a great weekend everyone! Kathie

Kathie,
Have your husband take another look at that page 7-41. There are actually two radio schematics shown there, the models 501 and 516. That chassis diagram in the lower left-hand corner is for the model 516, not the model 501. The only data on that page pertaining to the model 501 is the schematic at the top. Note that this schematic has the part numbers "A-9616" and "A-9617" for the two IF transformers. See if you can find any corresponding numbers stamped or printed on the metal IF transformer cans in your radio.

If your radio uses a vibrator it will be a round metal can with either 4 or 6 prongs, which fits into a socket like a tube.
Poston

:
:Oh boy Thomas am I REALLY confused....are you saying my radio has a vibrator supply and if so what leads you to know that. Gosh, these ole timers were pretty complicated in my opinion! My husband,Doug, did go to the schematic Poston said and taking a quick glance said it was not ours. I did find out from my mothers sister that the radio was bought in Nebraska and brought out here to Idaho in 1938 so the years 1935-36 would sure fit. We are headed over to Seattle this morning and back late Friday evening so will check back on this site Sat. Have a great weekend everyone! Kathie

Thomas,
I am not sure you are using the proper tube lineup. In her post of 2/7/05, Kathie says "on the base of the tuner itself where the tubes are are the following numbers: 233, 232, 230, 34 and 232." This exactly matches the tube lineup of the Coronado model 501. Later on 2/7/05 Kathie mentioned that the actual tubes in the radio were marked "32, 34, 230, 32 (with additional marking 5CX) and C72. We can't assume that last tube, "C72" is actually a #72, the "C72" could be simply a coding, this tube may well be a 233. In any case, I would go more with the numbers she has observed marked on the chassis itself, rather than the actual tubes which are in the radio.

Also, why are you assuming this radio uses a vibrator? I don't think Kathie has ever mentioned a vibrator in any of her descriptions, and in addition all these tubes are 2 volt filaments. I would suggest it used a multiple A/B battery hookup as illustrated in Rider (Gamble) page 7-41 ?

Poston

:Perhaps someone used a #72 as a substitute for the #33? I can't find my tube manual right now, and the basing diagram isn't listed on here.
:
:T.
:
::Hi Kathie,
::I think I have found an ID for your radio. Coronado model 501 uses the following tube lineup:
::30 Oscillator
::32 1st Detector
::34 IF amp
::32 2nd Detector
::33 AF
::This matches the tubes you mentioned. Rider schematic is available here on NostalgiaAir, from the home page click on "Resources", then click on "Coronado" (Gamble-Skogmo, Inc.), then from the list of model numbers click on "501". This will show Rider page 7-41, which you can view, download, or print. Most radios which were covered in Rider Volume VII were manufactured from late 1935 to late 1936.
::
::Poston
::
::
:::
:::Okay, now maybe we can both be operating off the same page. I know it is a Coronado as the silver emblem surrounding the paper dial with numbers says Coronado. And it is battery operated as the original paper label (that says Model and then the number was never stamped in) says battery operated and has the wires running down with clips (not black and red) and it was used on a farm without electricity. I phoned my mother and she said her father and mother (she was 8 years old) brought it to Idaho with them from Nebraska in 1938 and she remembers hooking it up to a car battery. These battery wires are all frayed, etc. so where do I purchase the power supplies, etc.? And also, the one tube does say supersilverstone with a 32 in the circle and then stamped on the side 5cx.
:::
:::As I said before THANKS! Kathie

A couple possibilities on the "C72", it might be a ballast or the remnants of some part that may have just been plugged into that location just to keep it looking complete.

But judging by the lineup, it is "Farm Radio", and will have a 2 volt fillament supply, and even the other one on that page is the same catagory also. What makes it confusing is that there are 2 "B" voltages, and 2 "C" voltages. I run a number of similar radios often, and have restored many like these.

Kathie, you might want to look at the 6 wires coming out of the same hole in the chassis, and see if any of them have the remnants of small aluminum tags identifying "A+", "B+", "B+ C-", etc. These will tell you which voltage and polarity to apply to each wire.

:Thomas,
:I am not sure you are using the proper tube lineup. In her post of 2/7/05, Kathie says "on the base of the tuner itself where the tubes are are the following numbers: 233, 232, 230, 34 and 232." This exactly matches the tube lineup of the Coronado model 501. Later on 2/7/05 Kathie mentioned that the actual tubes in the radio were marked "32, 34, 230, 32 (with additional marking 5CX) and C72. We can't assume that last tube, "C72" is actually a #72, the "C72" could be simply a coding, this tube may well be a 233. In any case, I would go more with the numbers she has observed marked on the chassis itself, rather than the actual tubes which are in the radio.
:
:Also, why are you assuming this radio uses a vibrator? I don't think Kathie has ever mentioned a vibrator in any of her descriptions, and in addition all these tubes are 2 volt filaments. I would suggest it used a multiple A/B battery hookup as illustrated in Rider (Gamble) page 7-41 ?
:
:Poston
:
::Perhaps someone used a #72 as a substitute for the #33? I can't find my tube manual right now, and the basing diagram isn't listed on here.
::
::T.
::
:::Hi Kathie,
:::I think I have found an ID for your radio. Coronado model 501 uses the following tube lineup:
:::30 Oscillator
:::32 1st Detector
:::34 IF amp
:::32 2nd Detector
:::33 AF
:::This matches the tubes you mentioned. Rider schematic is available here on NostalgiaAir, from the home page click on "Resources", then click on "Coronado" (Gamble-Skogmo, Inc.), then from the list of model numbers click on "501". This will show Rider page 7-41, which you can view, download, or print. Most radios which were covered in Rider Volume VII were manufactured from late 1935 to late 1936.
:::
:::Poston
:::
:::
::::
::::Okay, now maybe we can both be operating off the same page. I know it is a Coronado as the silver emblem surrounding the paper dial with numbers says Coronado. And it is battery operated as the original paper label (that says Model and then the number was never stamped in) says battery operated and has the wires running down with clips (not black and red) and it was used on a farm without electricity. I phoned my mother and she said her father and mother (she was 8 years old) brought it to Idaho with them from Nebraska in 1938 and she remembers hooking it up to a car battery. These battery wires are all frayed, etc. so where do I purchase the power supplies, etc.? And also, the one tube does say supersilverstone with a 32 in the circle and then stamped on the side 5cx.
::::
::::As I said before THANKS! Kathie

What makes me assume that it has a vibrator? Well, she said that her father used to hook it up to an auto battery. The only way an auto battery will power a radio is with a vibrator supply. I was going to ask her last night if she was absolutely sure if this was true, or if in fact there were more than two wires coming from the back of the set....and if she perhaps remembers more than one battery being wired to the set. And then I was going to continue looking through the diagrams, as I have covered all the way through the 900s so far, but I work 3rd shift, and I'm tired, and I go to school, and I don't always get a chance to accomplish the world, but I try. So anyway, if it uses an auto battery, and the battery powers the whole set, not just the filaments, it either has a vibrator or it has an alien from outer space with some gizmo that does the same.

Thanks! Peace out!

Thomas

Thomas,
Perhaps you are right, but I have never seen an auto battery that powered a radio with 2v filaments wired in parallel.
Poston

:What makes me assume that it has a vibrator? Well, she said that her father used to hook it up to an auto battery. The only way an auto battery will power a radio is with a vibrator supply. I was going to ask her last night if she was absolutely sure if this was true, or if in fact there were more than two wires coming from the back of the set....and if she perhaps remembers more than one battery being wired to the set. And then I was going to continue looking through the diagrams, as I have covered all the way through the 900s so far, but I work 3rd shift, and I'm tired, and I go to school, and I don't always get a chance to accomplish the world, but I try. So anyway, if it uses an auto battery, and the battery powers the whole set, not just the filaments, it either has a vibrator or it has an alien from outer space with some gizmo that does the same.
:
:Thanks! Peace out!
:
:Thomas

Well, noone ever said that any of the diagrams that we have all found are the right diagrams, either. I have seen Zenith farm radios with some of the tubes being 2.0 volt filamentary tubes. The filaments were strung in series and had a ballast resistor.

The Coronado diagrams I have seen had a #33 tube at the end (audio). Perhaps this is the C72 tube we are all wondering about. If I could just find my tube manual, I'd look up both, as the #72 tube is not listed on here (basing diagram)...she will have to tell whether C72 is a date code or if that is the actual tube number.

From what I recall, she said that two wires come out of the back of the set, somewhat thick, though they don't have clips at the end. With only two wires, and somewhat thick, this would tend to make it a 6 volt radio. A picture of the chassis would be the best.

If Kathy has a picture, send it to: bigbadpiratetom@yahoo.com.

Thomas

Sorry...misspelled your name: Kathie.

Thomas

Thomas,
I agree with you, I am guessing that is a 33 tube at the end. And this would correspond with those original numbers which Kathie found on the chassis.

I don't have any info on the #72 tube either. I know such a tube exists, but it is not covered in anything I have. Maybe we can find something on the internet? Still, that "C72" sounds odd and I am betting it is just a code number, and the actual tube is 33 (or 233). When Kathie gets back in town we need to get her to examine this tube more closely.

Since there are 5 tubes, if they are strung in series they would have needed a 12v battery plus series resistance, or else two 6v batteries. Unlikely in 1936 I think for such a simple radio, but possible.
Poston

:Well, noone ever said that any of the diagrams that we have all found are the right diagrams, either. I have seen Zenith farm radios with some of the tubes being 2.0 volt filamentary tubes. The filaments were strung in series and had a ballast resistor.
:
:The Coronado diagrams I have seen had a #33 tube at the end (audio). Perhaps this is the C72 tube we are all wondering about. If I could just find my tube manual, I'd look up both, as the #72 tube is not listed on here (basing diagram)...she will have to tell whether C72 is a date code or if that is the actual tube number.
:
:From what I recall, she said that two wires come out of the back of the set, somewhat thick, though they don't have clips at the end. With only two wires, and somewhat thick, this would tend to make it a 6 volt radio. A picture of the chassis would be the best.
:
:If Kathy has a picture, send it to: bigbadpiratetom@yahoo.com.
:
:Thomas

What they did in the Zenith radios I saw is string two out of the four tubes in series, and with appropriate ballast resistors. The radio used two 2.0 volt tubes. The other tubes in the radio each had 6.3 volt filaments. With this radio, if it is vibrator operated, the tubes may be strung in series in pairs and such. They would be strung in series according to their required biasing needs, as since the filaments are used as cathodes, they must be placed in proper bias reference. The A current for the filaments affects this bias reference, and in some cases can be used to an advantage with respect to radio design. One or two of the tubes may not even be strung in series with others, but may be on its own with its own ballast resistors. These are all theories and methods that MIGHT be employed in this radio, not actual methods used, as we do not know the actual schematic for this radio. Until we are able to confirm that this radio indeed uses only a 6 volt automotive battery, and indeed uses a vibrator supply, all of the above information will only be optional. At any rate, the methods described above are how 2.0 volt tubes may be used for a 6 volt vibrator type radio. As DC was used, there was no real necessity for indirectly heated cathodes, and designing filamentary tubes with 6 volt filaments would be cumbersome with the excessively large filaments, simply to satisfy the needs of 6 volt vibrator radios. Thus 2.0 volt tubes, which were readily available, could be employed readily. Of course using an AC supply (rectified to DC) on this radio is made more difficult because of the filamentary type tubes, and adequate filtering must be employed.

Anyway, there are plenty of different arrangements that can be used for 2.0 volt tubes, when they are used in a 6 volt vibrator type radio.

T.D.

Hi Kathie

Your grandmother's radio was used on a farm with no electricity. Some farms would charge their storage batteries using a windmill charger. A two or three volt storage battery at that time would be the size of a tractor or car battery. Other batteries would be used as well to provide the operating voltages Get your husband to double check the 501 schematic (top of the page) as Poston stated. A quick check of Mallory points to the 501 or its twin. You might want to forward Poston a photo as well and he can post it on the ARF forum for ID.

Ken

Here are some info from http://www.vacuumtubesinc.com/info6.html

72 - Not used for receiving tubes. When listed, usually refers to Raytheon RK-72 rectifier.

32 - Screen grid tetrode. 2V, .06A designed for battery sets.

30 - Power pentode. 2V, .26A designed for battery sets.

34 - RF pentode. 2V, .06A designed for battery sets.

5CX appears to be a transmitting tube.

:Are you sure that it is a Coronado? Wards sold Airline radios. These are legitimate tube numbers: 72, 32, 30, and 34. Did that Silvertone say both 32 and 5CX or just 32, and 5CX is a separate tube? I do not know of any 5CX type tubes, though someone else in here may know of this type.
:
:I will try to come up with something by searching Airlien and Coronado. Your radio is not plain-Jane, but the items I listed are simply optional things you may find on certain radios, whether they be consols or table models, etc. Also, on this radio, do you see anything that may look like a power transformer? Perhaps an empty 4 pin tube socket? If you do not know what a power transformer looks like, this is okay. I am trying to figure out whether this radio is an AC or battery type radio. You did not list a power rectifier tube (4 pin socket, possibly a type 80 tube). Does this radio have an AC cord or a bunch of wires and cables, plugs, or perhaps a thick red and black wire, each with a clip similar to those used on your jumper cables for your car? The AC cord would make this an AC radio. The bunch of wires and perhaps various types of plugs would likely make this a radio requiring a separate A and B battery. Two wires, likely red and black, with clips on the ends, would make this a 6 volt radio that would be operated off of a 6 volt automotive battery. The battery types of radios would have likely been used in a remote location where no power was available (farm). If this happens to be a battery type radio, do not worry, as power supplies are available/can be built for the radio.
:
:Thomas

Note to Stephen: we already got most of the tubes figured out. We aren't sure about the C72 yet, which could be something else (perhaps a date code). The 5CX was a date code on a Silvertone #32 tube. I have to find out if there are any other numbers on the C72 tube. Otherwise, as for the 5CX, this radio has no such tube. That is just a date code.

Thomas

As Poston has suggested, that tube should be a 33, and if Kathie was not reading the glass, or knows how to make the ghost numbers readable, the date code is all that she is going to find on the base. If the tube is a 72, it should not be there, and may be as I have suggested- it was just something that fit to make it "look" complete.

:Note to Stephen: we already got most of the tubes figured out. We aren't sure about the C72 yet, which could be something else (perhaps a date code). The 5CX was a date code on a Silvertone #32 tube. I have to find out if there are any other numbers on the C72 tube. Otherwise, as for the 5CX, this radio has no such tube. That is just a date code.
:
:Thomas

If that tube were indeed a 72, it would be a high-voltage rectifier for radar use, 4 pins and top cap. Filament 2.5v @ 3 amps, 22KV PIV @ 20 ma (this info courtesy of Norm Leal). So one of two things are certain:
1) That is not a 72 tube in Kathie's radio, or
2) If it IS a 72, it obviously does not belong there.
Poston

:As Poston has suggested, that tube should be a 33, and if Kathie was not reading the glass, or knows how to make the ghost numbers readable, the date code is all that she is going to find on the base. If the tube is a 72, it should not be there, and may be as I have suggested- it was just something that fit to make it "look" complete.
:
:
::Note to Stephen: we already got most of the tubes figured out. We aren't sure about the C72 yet, which could be something else (perhaps a date code). The 5CX was a date code on a Silvertone #32 tube. I have to find out if there are any other numbers on the C72 tube. Otherwise, as for the 5CX, this radio has no such tube. That is just a date code.
::
::Thomas

:If that tube were indeed a 72, it would be a high-voltage rectifier for radar use, 4 pins and top cap. Filament 2.5v @ 3 amps, 22KV PIV @ 20 ma (this info courtesy of Norm Leal). So one of two things are certain:
:1) That is not a 72 tube in Kathie's radio, or
:2) If it IS a 72, it obviously does not belong there.
:Poston
:
:
::As Poston has suggested, that tube should be a 33, and if Kathie was not reading the glass, or knows how to make the ghost numbers readable, the date code is all that she is going to find on the base. If the tube is a 72, it should not be there, and may be as I have suggested- it was just something that fit to make it "look" complete.
::
::
:::Note to Stephen: we already got most of the tubes figured out. We aren't sure about the C72 yet, which could be something else (perhaps a date code). The 5CX was a date code on a Silvertone #32 tube. I have to find out if there are any other numbers on the C72 tube. Otherwise, as for the 5CX, this radio has no such tube. That is just a date code.
:::
:::Thomas

Home now and looked at that tube that is causing a discussion. It is the tube in the very back (right hand side) with number in a circle and has "5" pins and is stamped on the black bottom part of the tube Coronado and C72 so maybe that is a date code. Kathie

::If that tube were indeed a 72, it would be a high-voltage rectifier for radar use, 4 pins and top cap. Filament 2.5v @ 3 amps, 22KV PIV @ 20 ma (this info courtesy of Norm Leal). So one of two things are certain:
::1) That is not a 72 tube in Kathie's radio, or
::2) If it IS a 72, it obviously does not belong there.
::Poston
::
::
:::As Poston has suggested, that tube should be a 33, and if Kathie was not reading the glass, or knows how to make the ghost numbers readable, the date code is all that she is going to find on the base. If the tube is a 72, it should not be there, and may be as I have suggested- it was just something that fit to make it "look" complete.
:::
:::
::::Note to Stephen: we already got most of the tubes figured out. We aren't sure about the C72 yet, which could be something else (perhaps a date code). The 5CX was a date code on a Silvertone #32 tube. I have to find out if there are any other numbers on the C72 tube. Otherwise, as for the 5CX, this radio has no such tube. That is just a date code.
::::
::::Thomas
:
:Home now and looked at that tube that is causing a discussion. It is the tube in the very back (right hand side) with number in a circle and has "5" pins and is stamped on the black bottom part of the tube Coronado and C72 so maybe that is a date code. Kathie

Excuse me I meant to say "no" number in a circle. Kathie

WOW! This discussion has turned into a big one! Kathie, could you please send me some pictures of your radio? My e-mail address is bigbadpiratetom@yahoo.com. Send a picture of the chassis, top view, with the tubes in and with the tubes out. Then send a picture of the front of the radio with its controls. Finally, send a picture of the rear of the radio, with all wires exposed. We all are having a hard time finding a schematic for your radio. As you said that it was hooked to an auto battery, it must use a vibrator and power transformer. None of us can find a schematic for this type of radio, though, with the tubes you listed. Sending a picture of the radio chassis would disclose many things including whether the set uses a vibrator or not.

Some questions for you: do you ever remember a buzzing sound coming from the back of the radio when it was on? Are you sure that only one battery was connected to this radio--not two or three?

I'm pretty sure (as is everyone else) that the C72 is a date code. The 5 pin tube may be a #33 or something like that. We'll see.

Thomas

So much to read thru but did anyone mentioned Wards did put out a Coronado Model in the 30's. Tubes sure aren't the ones discussed here. But I've gotten radios before where someone did some strange replacement. You know if it's got four pins, well try this tube...

:WOW! This discussion has turned into a big one! Kathie, could you please send me some pictures of your radio? My e-mail address is bigbadpiratetom@yahoo.com. Send a picture of the chassis, top view, with the tubes in and with the tubes out. Then send a picture of the front of the radio with its controls. Finally, send a picture of the rear of the radio, with all wires exposed. We all are having a hard time finding a schematic for your radio. As you said that it was hooked to an auto battery, it must use a vibrator and power transformer. None of us can find a schematic for this type of radio, though, with the tubes you listed. Sending a picture of the radio chassis would disclose many things including whether the set uses a vibrator or not.
:
:Some questions for you: do you ever remember a buzzing sound coming from the back of the radio when it was on? Are you sure that only one battery was connected to this radio--not two or three?
:
:I'm pretty sure (as is everyone else) that the C72 is a date code. The 5 pin tube may be a #33 or something like that. We'll see.
:
:Thomas

Actually, Coronado as a brand name was Gamble Skogmo. Wards and Sears repaired them, as with other brands.

But what has not been considered very much here is that there is a possibility that if there are only two wires to attach to a battery, then there are likely two chassis in the cabinet, one of them being a 6 volt vibrator supply, and the other being the radio.

The tube complement is consistent with the model 601 that Poston has already mentioned. For the moment, let us assume that because the tube in question has 5 pins, that it is highly probable that it is a 33.

So, if there is only one chassis, and two wires, there are a number of wires missing, perhaps cut off at the chassis opening.

If there are two chassis, there is a 6 volt converter to consider in this picture.

:So much to read thru but did anyone mentioned Wards did put out a Coronado Model in the 30's. Tubes sure aren't the ones discussed here. But I've gotten radios before where someone did some strange replacement. You know if it's got four pins, well try this tube...
:
::WOW! This discussion has turned into a big one! Kathie, could you please send me some pictures of your radio? My e-mail address is bigbadpiratetom@yahoo.com. Send a picture of the chassis, top view, with the tubes in and with the tubes out. Then send a picture of the front of the radio with its controls. Finally, send a picture of the rear of the radio, with all wires exposed. We all are having a hard time finding a schematic for your radio. As you said that it was hooked to an auto battery, it must use a vibrator and power transformer. None of us can find a schematic for this type of radio, though, with the tubes you listed. Sending a picture of the radio chassis would disclose many things including whether the set uses a vibrator or not.
::
::Some questions for you: do you ever remember a buzzing sound coming from the back of the radio when it was on? Are you sure that only one battery was connected to this radio--not two or three?
::
::I'm pretty sure (as is everyone else) that the C72 is a date code. The 5 pin tube may be a #33 or something like that. We'll see.
::
::Thomas

And Gamble-Skogmo radios were made by Kingston Radio. Kingston also made radios for Western Auto and Wards as well as others.

:Actually, Coronado as a brand name was Gamble Skogmo. Wards and Sears repaired them, as with other brands.
:
:But what has not been considered very much here is that there is a possibility that if there are only two wires to attach to a battery, then there are likely two chassis in the cabinet, one of them being a 6 volt vibrator supply, and the other being the radio.
:
:The tube complement is consistent with the model 601 that Poston has already mentioned. For the moment, let us assume that because the tube in question has 5 pins, that it is highly probable that it is a 33.
:
:So, if there is only one chassis, and two wires, there are a number of wires missing, perhaps cut off at the chassis opening.
:
:If there are two chassis, there is a 6 volt converter to consider in this picture.
:
:
:
::So much to read thru but did anyone mentioned Wards did put out a Coronado Model in the 30's. Tubes sure aren't the ones discussed here. But I've gotten radios before where someone did some strange replacement. You know if it's got four pins, well try this tube...
::
:::WOW! This discussion has turned into a big one! Kathie, could you please send me some pictures of your radio? My e-mail address is bigbadpiratetom@yahoo.com. Send a picture of the chassis, top view, with the tubes in and with the tubes out. Then send a picture of the front of the radio with its controls. Finally, send a picture of the rear of the radio, with all wires exposed. We all are having a hard time finding a schematic for your radio. As you said that it was hooked to an auto battery, it must use a vibrator and power transformer. None of us can find a schematic for this type of radio, though, with the tubes you listed. Sending a picture of the radio chassis would disclose many things including whether the set uses a vibrator or not.
:::
:::Some questions for you: do you ever remember a buzzing sound coming from the back of the radio when it was on? Are you sure that only one battery was connected to this radio--not two or three?
:::
:::I'm pretty sure (as is everyone else) that the C72 is a date code. The 5 pin tube may be a #33 or something like that. We'll see.
:::
:::Thomas

Actually it was Wells Gardner that made Wards Airline, Firestone, Goodyear, Coronado, Lafayette, Allied, and anumber of others.

It may be that the old Kingston company became subsidiary of W.G. like Balkiet did, but you would have to look through other texts and tax documents to be sure of who bought whom in that time period. Wells Gardner was one of the last ones standing.

:And Gamble-Skogmo radios were made by Kingston Radio. Kingston also made radios for Western Auto and Wards as well as others.
:
::Actually, Coronado as a brand name was Gamble Skogmo. Wards and Sears repaired them, as with other brands.
::
::But what has not been considered very much here is that there is a possibility that if there are only two wires to attach to a battery, then there are likely two chassis in the cabinet, one of them being a 6 volt vibrator supply, and the other being the radio.
::
::The tube complement is consistent with the model 601 that Poston has already mentioned. For the moment, let us assume that because the tube in question has 5 pins, that it is highly probable that it is a 33.
::
::So, if there is only one chassis, and two wires, there are a number of wires missing, perhaps cut off at the chassis opening.
::
::If there are two chassis, there is a 6 volt converter to consider in this picture.
::
::
::
:::So much to read thru but did anyone mentioned Wards did put out a Coronado Model in the 30's. Tubes sure aren't the ones discussed here. But I've gotten radios before where someone did some strange replacement. You know if it's got four pins, well try this tube...
:::
::::WOW! This discussion has turned into a big one! Kathie, could you please send me some pictures of your radio? My e-mail address is bigbadpiratetom@yahoo.com. Send a picture of the chassis, top view, with the tubes in and with the tubes out. Then send a picture of the front of the radio with its controls. Finally, send a picture of the rear of the radio, with all wires exposed. We all are having a hard time finding a schematic for your radio. As you said that it was hooked to an auto battery, it must use a vibrator and power transformer. None of us can find a schematic for this type of radio, though, with the tubes you listed. Sending a picture of the radio chassis would disclose many things including whether the set uses a vibrator or not.
::::
::::Some questions for you: do you ever remember a buzzing sound coming from the back of the radio when it was on? Are you sure that only one battery was connected to this radio--not two or three?
::::
::::I'm pretty sure (as is everyone else) that the C72 is a date code. The 5 pin tube may be a #33 or something like that. We'll see.
::::
::::Thomas

Well, who knows folks. I don't even begin to try to understand all of the manufacturing circles that went on and still go on. Just look at General Electric and RCA and Westinghouse. Who made who? You will go in circles on that one. Then, too, Cungingham came into the picture, and when it came to Mazda lightbulbs, I've seen the name Mazda on all sorts of brands of lightbulbs.

The main thing is, though, that Kathie sent me pictures of the radio. There is a large cable of wires leading to the familiar plugs that go to A, B, and C batteries, and looking closely on the radio, she even found markings for B and C voltages. That said, we can now focus on the 501 and other models, and yes, the C71 is likely a #33 or some other similar 5 pin tube.

Thomas