I have a Crosley Model 1137 that my father received when he was a boy. It stopped working in the 1970s. I have some knowledge in electronics, but none with tubes. I am trying to troubleshoot it, but I seem to be stuck. I measured all of the tubes pins with the power on. What I found is that each tube is receiving 7.0V (except the rectifier which is 5.5V) on one pin. The rectifier has an output? of 390V on 2 pins. All of the other pins on each tube is 0V. The tube voltage chart for this particular radio tells me that the rectifier voltage should be 270V. Could the rectifier or transformer be a problem?
I have looked for obvious breaks, bad solder points, broken wires, burn marks. There is nothing obvious. Can someone help guide me on troubleshooting some more or tell me if the above information points to a common cause?
Thanks for any help. I really need it. Jim.
http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel/241/M0003241.pdf
Print it up and read it thoroughly. I assume from what you are saying that you do not know at all how a tube works. When I have more time and am not doing my homework, I'll explain it to you. Right now I have to go because I have a lot of studying to do. At any rate, first check is to see that the field coil is not open. This coil, if working properly, will have a resistance of about 525 ohms or there-abouts for your set. I have a Crosley Super 11, which is the model 1117, and has a similar tube layout and the same current requirements. Chances are that your radio uses the same Magnavox speaker, as most of the Crosley sets of the time used Magnavox speakers.
Probably what is causing whatever problem you have are the electrolytic condensers (large value condensers...about 30 MFD or so). These often short out. Mine blew their seals long before I got the set, and so there was corrosion all over the top of the set. These early units were filled with liquid. Luckily, however, you can leave them in place and simply put modern units below the chassis, and keep everything looking great. At any rate, when these units short out, they can burn up the field coil and numerous other things.
What you want to do in the meantime is go to www.tubesandmore.com and order their catologue. You can also use the web page as a catologue, but I tend to prefer paper vs. computer. Whatever suits your eyes better, go for it. This is the company you will probably purchase most of your parts from.
If you live in the U.S.A., chances are you can check out a book at your local library called Antique Radio Repair and Restoration (something like that...forgot exact title) by David and Betty Johnson. This book, whatever edition you get, is great for the beginner. Radio tubes are extremely easy to understand once you read about them for a bit. You can also purchase this and other books from www.tubesandmore.com (Antique Electronic Supply), so that you will always have them around.
At any rate, check the field coil for now. Don't do anything more with plugging in your radio because something is wrong with the power supply that caused this trouble. If you find the trouble and repair it, chances are there will be shorted electrolytics, and when you power these up, they can damage the very expensive power transformer. When I respond next time, I will give you enough information that you can troubleshoot the set without ever turning it on. Then, once all faulty parts have been found and replaced, you can turn it on, and chances are you can enjoy it.
Well, gotta go study for now.
Peace out!
Thomas
:Hi,
:
:I have a Crosley Model 1137 that my father received when he was a boy. It stopped working in the 1970s. I have some knowledge in electronics, but none with tubes. I am trying to troubleshoot it, but I seem to be stuck. I measured all of the tubes pins with the power on. What I found is that each tube is receiving 7.0V (except the rectifier which is 5.5V) on one pin. The rectifier has an output? of 390V on 2 pins. All of the other pins on each tube is 0V. The tube voltage chart for this particular radio tells me that the rectifier voltage should be 270V. Could the rectifier or transformer be a problem?
:
:I have looked for obvious breaks, bad solder points, broken wires, burn marks. There is nothing obvious. Can someone help guide me on troubleshooting some more or tell me if the above information points to a common cause?
:
:Thanks for any help. I really need it. Jim.
Thanks for your response. I did as you said and I checked the field coil. It is a Magnavox speaker with a value of 525 ohms. I measured 480 ohms, so I think that is OK. I disconnected both of the 30-40MF caps and found that one of them is shorted, as you suggested. I will replace both caps. Should I check anything else while I am ordering parts? Thanks again. Jim
:Well, first of all, make sure that your speaker is plugged in. Your speaker field coil, the coil that magnetizes the speaker (prior to permanent magnet speakers), delivers B- to the chassis from the center tap of the high voltage winding. This is the link for your circuit diagram:
:
:http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel/241/M0003241.pdf
:
:Print it up and read it thoroughly. I assume from what you are saying that you do not know at all how a tube works. When I have more time and am not doing my homework, I'll explain it to you. Right now I have to go because I have a lot of studying to do. At any rate, first check is to see that the field coil is not open. This coil, if working properly, will have a resistance of about 525 ohms or there-abouts for your set. I have a Crosley Super 11, which is the model 1117, and has a similar tube layout and the same current requirements. Chances are that your radio uses the same Magnavox speaker, as most of the Crosley sets of the time used Magnavox speakers.
:
:Probably what is causing whatever problem you have are the electrolytic condensers (large value condensers...about 30 MFD or so). These often short out. Mine blew their seals long before I got the set, and so there was corrosion all over the top of the set. These early units were filled with liquid. Luckily, however, you can leave them in place and simply put modern units below the chassis, and keep everything looking great. At any rate, when these units short out, they can burn up the field coil and numerous other things.
:
:What you want to do in the meantime is go to www.tubesandmore.com and order their catologue. You can also use the web page as a catologue, but I tend to prefer paper vs. computer. Whatever suits your eyes better, go for it. This is the company you will probably purchase most of your parts from.
:
:If you live in the U.S.A., chances are you can check out a book at your local library called Antique Radio Repair and Restoration (something like that...forgot exact title) by David and Betty Johnson. This book, whatever edition you get, is great for the beginner. Radio tubes are extremely easy to understand once you read about them for a bit. You can also purchase this and other books from www.tubesandmore.com (Antique Electronic Supply), so that you will always have them around.
:
:At any rate, check the field coil for now. Don't do anything more with plugging in your radio because something is wrong with the power supply that caused this trouble. If you find the trouble and repair it, chances are there will be shorted electrolytics, and when you power these up, they can damage the very expensive power transformer. When I respond next time, I will give you enough information that you can troubleshoot the set without ever turning it on. Then, once all faulty parts have been found and replaced, you can turn it on, and chances are you can enjoy it.
:
:Well, gotta go study for now.
:
:Peace out!
:
:Thomas
:
::Hi,
::
::I have a Crosley Model 1137 that my father received when he was a boy. It stopped working in the 1970s. I have some knowledge in electronics, but none with tubes. I am trying to troubleshoot it, but I seem to be stuck. I measured all of the tubes pins with the power on. What I found is that each tube is receiving 7.0V (except the rectifier which is 5.5V) on one pin. The rectifier has an output? of 390V on 2 pins. All of the other pins on each tube is 0V. The tube voltage chart for this particular radio tells me that the rectifier voltage should be 270V. Could the rectifier or transformer be a problem?
::
::I have looked for obvious breaks, bad solder points, broken wires, burn marks. There is nothing obvious. Can someone help guide me on troubleshooting some more or tell me if the above information points to a common cause?
::
::Thanks for any help. I really need it. Jim.
Yeah, the other things you should check are all the other condensers in the radio. To test condensers properly, disconnect one lead. Use your multi-meter's most sensitive resistance setting--the one that moves the meter when you touch the leads with your bare hands. Idealy condensers should be checked with a source of high voltage to assure you that they do not have internal arcs. Since most condensers don't develop internal arcs, you can get by with just a multi-meter. Unless your set starts popping and crackling irratically, and it is not due to a dirty switch or volume control, you don't likely have arcing condensers. If you ever need a simple device for checking for arcing condensers, let me know and I will give you a plan. Very easy, and only $10 to build. You can also purchase a Solar or Sprague Capacitor tester on eBay. Once you replace a few simple parts in the unit to assure proper performance, it will test all of your condensers with a fairly high voltage that will show leakage and arcs.
Anyway......not to get carried away. Test all condensers for any sign of leakage. A condenser is basically two metal plates insulated from eachother in some way. With the small units, this may be paper or mica, or in modern cases, mylar or some form of plastic, ceramic, etc. Tuning condensers (big ganged unit with plates) are insulated with air. Electrolytic condensers are the strange bird because their insulation is actually formed by charging them. A chemical reaction takes place on one of the metal plates, leaving a deposit. This deposit forms the dielectric. Since electrolytics have liquid in them, it is not uncommon to find several million ohms across them, and yet they still work fine. With all the smaller condensers in your set, however, ANY LEAKAGE is absolutely unacceptable. With some of the high impedance circuits used in a tube type set, millions of ohms leakage across a condenser is enough to throw off the voltages in a circuit. That said, when you test a condenser, if the needle swings up, it should fall back down ALL THE WAY to infinity. It should stop EXACTLY where it started. Nothing less. The object of a condenser is to hold a charge, not leak it away. When testing condensers, be sure not to touch the test leads, as this will throw off your reading and make you think that a condenser is leaky. Condensers of .001 MFD and larger will cause the meter to swing up just a bit. It may be barely noticeable. Then the needle will fall back down to infinity. Condensers of less than this value may not show you anything at all. The rectangular units with the colored dots (3 or 6) are mica condensers. These rarely short out, but test them just the same. Furthermore, on occasion manufacturers don't use mica as the insulator in these. Sometimes they use paper! That can be very misleading. You think they never fail, and then you get a set with a batch of disguized paper condensers. Test them all to be sure.
If the small yellow metalized film condensers are purchased as replacements, these can often be fitted inside the old units. If you gut the old units and place the new ones inside, you can keep the underside of the set looking original.
Test all of your resistors with the appropriate setting on your multi-meter. Make sure that they are not more than perhaps 15% off of value. Control grid biasing resistors and the plate resistor of the first audio amp., 6K5G, can be off by perhaps 20%. Some sets work fine this way and some distort. Carbon resistors generally drift up in value with age. When control grid biasing resistors drift up, bass response gets heavier. In some cases it becomes excessive, which is where your distortion comes in. As long as the resistors have a neighborhood resistance of what they should be, leave them alone and try the set. Once you have it running, you may substitute correct value resistors in place of the drifted ones and see how the set performs. Make it the way you like it. If you wish to save old resistors, you can parallel new ones with the old ones. The new one will have to be an experimentally determined value that is higher than the required resistance. The two resistors in parallel should equal the original resistance. You can do this by experimentation or with a formula. I will have to give you the formula some other time, because I forgot it........or you may simply replace the resistors. Up to you.
Replace all power supplying resistors that have drifted more than 10 or 15%. These must be fairly close to specified values. These would be any resistors supplying current in the B+ section or resistors that supply current to the cathode of a tube. The 6K6 output tubes should be supplied by a wire wound "flex" resistor, like that in my set. Wire wound resistors almost never drift. They just open up.
If you wish, you may test the primaries and secondaries of all the coils in the set (IF transformers, oscillator coils, etc.). These don't open up too often, and so you may just wait until you get the set running.
You should purchase a signal generator, either from www.tubesandmore.com or from eBay. Such brands on eBay are Precision, Eico, Heathkit, etc. These will all be old signal generators using tubes. It is best that the seller say that the generator definitely works. Unless the seller says this, you could be purchasing a signal generator that has been tampered with or that is broken. Aligning a radio with a signal generator that is off is asking for a headache, as the radio will not work properly. Before aligning a radio, you should first get it working if you can, and see whether it seems to need an alignment or not. A properly working radio will pull in stations quite well. The stations should line up fairly well across the dial. When testing the Police and Foreign bands, you may use the universal coordinated time stations at 2.5, 5, 10, 15, and 20 megacycles. This is a station that rings out the time. You will hear a tone for every second, and then the minute will be announced once every minute. Do not be alarmed if you cannot receive some of the locations, as the different frequencies can only be heard at certain times of the day due to changes in the ionosphere (layer in the atmostphere). An excellent antenna to build for this receiver, which is the antenna that is supposed to be used with this receiver, is the V-Doublet antenna. It is a special balanced antenna that will bring you practically static free reception. You can find a very good example to build your's by if you go to the Resources section of this web site. Go to General Electric. Then scroll down to V-Doublet Antenna. Use flat lead 300 ohm television antenna lead in wire for the twisted lead specified for the V-Doublet. This flat wire, which was once used commonly on televisions, is available at Radio Shack in various lengths.
I will write more in a little while. You can print these out and read them while you work on the set. You still want to purchase that restoration book, though.
Thomas
:Thomas,
:
:Thanks for your response. I did as you said and I checked the field coil. It is a Magnavox speaker with a value of 525 ohms. I measured 480 ohms, so I think that is OK. I disconnected both of the 30-40MF caps and found that one of them is shorted, as you suggested. I will replace both caps. Should I check anything else while I am ordering parts? Thanks again. Jim
:
:
:
::Well, first of all, make sure that your speaker is plugged in. Your speaker field coil, the coil that magnetizes the speaker (prior to permanent magnet speakers), delivers B- to the chassis from the center tap of the high voltage winding. This is the link for your circuit diagram:
::
::http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel/241/M0003241.pdf
::
::Print it up and read it thoroughly. I assume from what you are saying that you do not know at all how a tube works. When I have more time and am not doing my homework, I'll explain it to you. Right now I have to go because I have a lot of studying to do. At any rate, first check is to see that the field coil is not open. This coil, if working properly, will have a resistance of about 525 ohms or there-abouts for your set. I have a Crosley Super 11, which is the model 1117, and has a similar tube layout and the same current requirements. Chances are that your radio uses the same Magnavox speaker, as most of the Crosley sets of the time used Magnavox speakers.
::
::Probably what is causing whatever problem you have are the electrolytic condensers (large value condensers...about 30 MFD or so). These often short out. Mine blew their seals long before I got the set, and so there was corrosion all over the top of the set. These early units were filled with liquid. Luckily, however, you can leave them in place and simply put modern units below the chassis, and keep everything looking great. At any rate, when these units short out, they can burn up the field coil and numerous other things.
::
::What you want to do in the meantime is go to www.tubesandmore.com and order their catologue. You can also use the web page as a catologue, but I tend to prefer paper vs. computer. Whatever suits your eyes better, go for it. This is the company you will probably purchase most of your parts from.
::
::If you live in the U.S.A., chances are you can check out a book at your local library called Antique Radio Repair and Restoration (something like that...forgot exact title) by David and Betty Johnson. This book, whatever edition you get, is great for the beginner. Radio tubes are extremely easy to understand once you read about them for a bit. You can also purchase this and other books from www.tubesandmore.com (Antique Electronic Supply), so that you will always have them around.
::
::At any rate, check the field coil for now. Don't do anything more with plugging in your radio because something is wrong with the power supply that caused this trouble. If you find the trouble and repair it, chances are there will be shorted electrolytics, and when you power these up, they can damage the very expensive power transformer. When I respond next time, I will give you enough information that you can troubleshoot the set without ever turning it on. Then, once all faulty parts have been found and replaced, you can turn it on, and chances are you can enjoy it.
::
::Well, gotta go study for now.
::
::Peace out!
::
::Thomas
::
:::Hi,
:::
:::I have a Crosley Model 1137 that my father received when he was a boy. It stopped working in the 1970s. I have some knowledge in electronics, but none with tubes. I am trying to troubleshoot it, but I seem to be stuck. I measured all of the tubes pins with the power on. What I found is that each tube is receiving 7.0V (except the rectifier which is 5.5V) on one pin. The rectifier has an output? of 390V on 2 pins. All of the other pins on each tube is 0V. The tube voltage chart for this particular radio tells me that the rectifier voltage should be 270V. Could the rectifier or transformer be a problem?
:::
:::I have looked for obvious breaks, bad solder points, broken wires, burn marks. There is nothing obvious. Can someone help guide me on troubleshooting some more or tell me if the above information points to a common cause?
:::
:::Thanks for any help. I really need it. Jim.
:Well, Gwen just gave you the correct title! Thanks Gwen!
:
:Yeah, the other things you should check are all the other condensers in the radio. To test condensers properly, disconnect one lead. Use your multi-meter's most sensitive resistance setting--the one that moves the meter when you touch the leads with your bare hands. Idealy condensers should be checked with a source of high voltage to assure you that they do not have internal arcs. Since most condensers don't develop internal arcs, you can get by with just a multi-meter. Unless your set starts popping and crackling irratically, and it is not due to a dirty switch or volume control, you don't likely have arcing condensers. If you ever need a simple device for checking for arcing condensers, let me know and I will give you a plan. Very easy, and only $10 to build. You can also purchase a Solar or Sprague Capacitor tester on eBay. Once you replace a few simple parts in the unit to assure proper performance, it will test all of your condensers with a fairly high voltage that will show leakage and arcs.
:
:Anyway......not to get carried away. Test all condensers for any sign of leakage. A condenser is basically two metal plates insulated from eachother in some way. With the small units, this may be paper or mica, or in modern cases, mylar or some form of plastic, ceramic, etc. Tuning condensers (big ganged unit with plates) are insulated with air. Electrolytic condensers are the strange bird because their insulation is actually formed by charging them. A chemical reaction takes place on one of the metal plates, leaving a deposit. This deposit forms the dielectric. Since electrolytics have liquid in them, it is not uncommon to find several million ohms across them, and yet they still work fine. With all the smaller condensers in your set, however, ANY LEAKAGE is absolutely unacceptable. With some of the high impedance circuits used in a tube type set, millions of ohms leakage across a condenser is enough to throw off the voltages in a circuit. That said, when you test a condenser, if the needle swings up, it should fall back down ALL THE WAY to infinity. It should stop EXACTLY where it started. Nothing less. The object of a condenser is to hold a charge, not leak it away. When testing condensers, be sure not to touch the test leads, as this will throw off your reading and make you think that a condenser is leaky. Condensers of .001 MFD and larger will cause the meter to swing up just a bit. It may be barely noticeable. Then the needle will fall back down to infinity. Condensers of less than this value may not show you anything at all. The rectangular units with the colored dots (3 or 6) are mica condensers. These rarely short out, but test them just the same. Furthermore, on occasion manufacturers don't use mica as the insulator in these. Sometimes they use paper! That can be very misleading. You think they never fail, and then you get a set with a batch of disguized paper condensers. Test them all to be sure.
:
:If the small yellow metalized film condensers are purchased as replacements, these can often be fitted inside the old units. If you gut the old units and place the new ones inside, you can keep the underside of the set looking original.
:
:Test all of your resistors with the appropriate setting on your multi-meter. Make sure that they are not more than perhaps 15% off of value. Control grid biasing resistors and the plate resistor of the first audio amp., 6K5G, can be off by perhaps 20%. Some sets work fine this way and some distort. Carbon resistors generally drift up in value with age. When control grid biasing resistors drift up, bass response gets heavier. In some cases it becomes excessive, which is where your distortion comes in. As long as the resistors have a neighborhood resistance of what they should be, leave them alone and try the set. Once you have it running, you may substitute correct value resistors in place of the drifted ones and see how the set performs. Make it the way you like it. If you wish to save old resistors, you can parallel new ones with the old ones. The new one will have to be an experimentally determined value that is higher than the required resistance. The two resistors in parallel should equal the original resistance. You can do this by experimentation or with a formula. I will have to give you the formula some other time, because I forgot it........or you may simply replace the resistors. Up to you.
:
:Replace all power supplying resistors that have drifted more than 10 or 15%. These must be fairly close to specified values. These would be any resistors supplying current in the B+ section or resistors that supply current to the cathode of a tube. The 6K6 output tubes should be supplied by a wire wound "flex" resistor, like that in my set. Wire wound resistors almost never drift. They just open up.
:
:If you wish, you may test the primaries and secondaries of all the coils in the set (IF transformers, oscillator coils, etc.). These don't open up too often, and so you may just wait until you get the set running.
:
:You should purchase a signal generator, either from www.tubesandmore.com or from eBay. Such brands on eBay are Precision, Eico, Heathkit, etc. These will all be old signal generators using tubes. It is best that the seller say that the generator definitely works. Unless the seller says this, you could be purchasing a signal generator that has been tampered with or that is broken. Aligning a radio with a signal generator that is off is asking for a headache, as the radio will not work properly. Before aligning a radio, you should first get it working if you can, and see whether it seems to need an alignment or not. A properly working radio will pull in stations quite well. The stations should line up fairly well across the dial. When testing the Police and Foreign bands, you may use the universal coordinated time stations at 2.5, 5, 10, 15, and 20 megacycles. This is a station that rings out the time. You will hear a tone for every second, and then the minute will be announced once every minute. Do not be alarmed if you cannot receive some of the locations, as the different frequencies can only be heard at certain times of the day due to changes in the ionosphere (layer in the atmostphere). An excellent antenna to build for this receiver, which is the antenna that is supposed to be used with this receiver, is the V-Doublet antenna. It is a special balanced antenna that will bring you practically static free reception. You can find a very good example to build your's by if you go to the Resources section of this web site. Go to General Electric. Then scroll down to V-Doublet Antenna. Use flat lead 300 ohm television antenna lead in wire for the twisted lead specified for the V-Doublet. This flat wire, which was once used commonly on televisions, is available at Radio Shack in various lengths.
:
:I will write more in a little while. You can print these out and read them while you work on the set. You still want to purchase that restoration book, though.
:
:Thomas
:
::Thomas,
::
::Thanks for your response. I did as you said and I checked the field coil. It is a Magnavox speaker with a value of 525 ohms. I measured 480 ohms, so I think that is OK. I disconnected both of the 30-40MF caps and found that one of them is shorted, as you suggested. I will replace both caps. Should I check anything else while I am ordering parts? Thanks again. Jim
::
::
::
:::Well, first of all, make sure that your speaker is plugged in. Your speaker field coil, the coil that magnetizes the speaker (prior to permanent magnet speakers), delivers B- to the chassis from the center tap of the high voltage winding. This is the link for your circuit diagram:
:::
:::http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel/241/M0003241.pdf
:::
:::Print it up and read it thoroughly. I assume from what you are saying that you do not know at all how a tube works. When I have more time and am not doing my homework, I'll explain it to you. Right now I have to go because I have a lot of studying to do. At any rate, first check is to see that the field coil is not open. This coil, if working properly, will have a resistance of about 525 ohms or there-abouts for your set. I have a Crosley Super 11, which is the model 1117, and has a similar tube layout and the same current requirements. Chances are that your radio uses the same Magnavox speaker, as most of the Crosley sets of the time used Magnavox speakers.
:::
:::Probably what is causing whatever problem you have are the electrolytic condensers (large value condensers...about 30 MFD or so). These often short out. Mine blew their seals long before I got the set, and so there was corrosion all over the top of the set. These early units were filled with liquid. Luckily, however, you can leave them in place and simply put modern units below the chassis, and keep everything looking great. At any rate, when these units short out, they can burn up the field coil and numerous other things.
:::
:::What you want to do in the meantime is go to www.tubesandmore.com and order their catologue. You can also use the web page as a catologue, but I tend to prefer paper vs. computer. Whatever suits your eyes better, go for it. This is the company you will probably purchase most of your parts from.
:::
:::If you live in the U.S.A., chances are you can check out a book at your local library called Antique Radio Repair and Restoration (something like that...forgot exact title) by David and Betty Johnson. This book, whatever edition you get, is great for the beginner. Radio tubes are extremely easy to understand once you read about them for a bit. You can also purchase this and other books from www.tubesandmore.com (Antique Electronic Supply), so that you will always have them around.
:::
:::At any rate, check the field coil for now. Don't do anything more with plugging in your radio because something is wrong with the power supply that caused this trouble. If you find the trouble and repair it, chances are there will be shorted electrolytics, and when you power these up, they can damage the very expensive power transformer. When I respond next time, I will give you enough information that you can troubleshoot the set without ever turning it on. Then, once all faulty parts have been found and replaced, you can turn it on, and chances are you can enjoy it.
:::
:::Well, gotta go study for now.
:::
:::Peace out!
:::
:::Thomas
:::
::::Hi,
::::
::::I have a Crosley Model 1137 that my father received when he was a boy. It stopped working in the 1970s. I have some knowledge in electronics, but none with tubes. I am trying to troubleshoot it, but I seem to be stuck. I measured all of the tubes pins with the power on. What I found is that each tube is receiving 7.0V (except the rectifier which is 5.5V) on one pin. The rectifier has an output? of 390V on 2 pins. All of the other pins on each tube is 0V. The tube voltage chart for this particular radio tells me that the rectifier voltage should be 270V. Could the rectifier or transformer be a problem?
::::
::::I have looked for obvious breaks, bad solder points, broken wires, burn marks. There is nothing obvious. Can someone help guide me on troubleshooting some more or tell me if the above information points to a common cause?
::::
::::Thanks for any help. I really need it. Jim.
Antique Radio Restoration Guide 2nd Edition, David Johnson
(Amazon.com/book's)
:Hi,
:
:I have a Crosley Model 1137 that my father received when he was a boy. It stopped working in the 1970s. I have some knowledge in electronics, but none with tubes. I am trying to troubleshoot it, but I seem to be stuck. I measured all of the tubes pins with the power on. What I found is that each tube is receiving 7.0V (except the rectifier which is 5.5V) on one pin. The rectifier has an output? of 390V on 2 pins. All of the other pins on each tube is 0V. The tube voltage chart for this particular radio tells me that the rectifier voltage should be 270V. Could the rectifier or transformer be a problem?
:
:I have looked for obvious breaks, bad solder points, broken wires, burn marks. There is nothing obvious. Can someone help guide me on troubleshooting some more or tell me if the above information points to a common cause?
:
:Thanks for any help. I really need it. Jim.