I have just aquired a radio with the following line up
12K7
50Y6
50L6 (i can change this to a 35L6 if need be)
12J7
Some one has disconnected the dail lamp can
anyone help me on where to rewire the wires
and also the correct bulb any help would
be wonderfull.Many Thanks. Dave.

That is bad that someone disconnected the pilot lamp. This puts extra stress on the ballast filament in the 35Z5 tube. Current goes in pin 2, through this filament, and out pin 3 to the plate of the tube (on to the power supply). Current also continues from pin three to the rest of the filament in the tube, and then out pin 7 to the other filaments. So, you see, the filament at pins 2 and 3 carries both filament current and plate current. The pilot lamp should be connected across these pins. With both the pilot lamp and the filament in parallel, the filament will not be overloaded. It is wise to replace the pilot lamp immediately upon burn-out. Both the filament current and the B+ current flowing through the pilot lamp and the ballast filament (in parallel with eachother) is enough to light a #47 bulb to full brightness. This is the size of bulb to use. In turn, the pilot lamp and ballast filament serve as a sort of buffer resistor for the power supply. They absorb electrolytic surges upon warm turn-on, and also serve as a sort of fuse.

Thomas

:That is bad that someone disconnected the pilot lamp. This puts extra stress on the ballast filament in the 35Z5 tube. Current goes in pin 2, through this filament, and out pin 3 to the plate of the tube (on to the power supply). Current also continues from pin three to the rest of the filament in the tube, and then out pin 7 to the other filaments. So, you see, the filament at pins 2 and 3 carries both filament current and plate current. The pilot lamp should be connected across these pins. With both the pilot lamp and the filament in parallel, the filament will not be overloaded. It is wise to replace the pilot lamp immediately upon burn-out. Both the filament current and the B+ current flowing through the pilot lamp and the ballast filament (in parallel with eachother) is enough to light a #47 bulb to full brightness. This is the size of bulb to use. In turn, the pilot lamp and ballast filament serve as a sort of buffer resistor for the power supply. They absorb electrolytic surges upon warm turn-on, and also serve as a sort of fuse.
:
:Thomas

::That is bad that someone disconnected the pilot lamp. This puts extra stress on the ballast filament in the 35Z5 tube. Current goes in pin 2, through this filament, and out pin 3 to the plate of the tube (on to the power supply). Current also continues from pin three to the rest of the filament in the tube, and then out pin 7 to the other filaments. So, you see, the filament at pins 2 and 3 carries both filament current and plate current. The pilot lamp should be connected across these pins. With both the pilot lamp and the filament in parallel, the filament will not be overloaded. It is wise to replace the pilot lamp immediately upon burn-out. Both the filament current and the B+ current flowing through the pilot lamp and the ballast filament (in parallel with eachother) is enough to light a #47 bulb to full brightness. This is the size of bulb to use. In turn, the pilot lamp and ballast filament serve as a sort of buffer resistor for the power supply. They absorb electrolytic surges upon warm turn-on, and also serve as a sort of fuse.
::
::Thomas

::That is bad that someone disconnected the pilot lamp. This puts extra stress on the ballast filament in the 35Z5 tube. Current goes in pin 2, through this filament, and out pin 3 to the plate of the tube (on to the power supply). Current also continues from pin three to the rest of the filament in the tube, and then out pin 7 to the other filaments. So, you see, the filament at pins 2 and 3 carries both filament current and plate current. The pilot lamp should be connected across these pins. With both the pilot lamp and the filament in parallel, the filament will not be overloaded. It is wise to replace the pilot lamp immediately upon burn-out. Both the filament current and the B+ current flowing through the pilot lamp and the ballast filament (in parallel with eachother) is enough to light a #47 bulb to full brightness. This is the size of bulb to use. In turn, the pilot lamp and ballast filament serve as a sort of buffer resistor for the power supply. They absorb electrolytic surges upon warm turn-on, and also serve as a sort of fuse.
::
::Thomas Many thanks thomas

:That is bad that someone disconnected the pilot lamp. This puts extra stress on the ballast filament in the 35Z5 tube. Current goes in pin 2, through this filament, and out pin 3 to the plate of the tube (on to the power supply). Current also continues from pin three to the rest of the filament in the tube, and then out pin 7 to the other filaments. So, you see, the filament at pins 2 and 3 carries both filament current and plate current. The pilot lamp should be connected across these pins. With both the pilot lamp and the filament in parallel, the filament will not be overloaded. It is wise to replace the pilot lamp immediately upon burn-out. Both the filament current and the B+ current flowing through the pilot lamp and the ballast filament (in parallel with eachother) is enough to light a #47 bulb to full brightness. This is the size of bulb to use. In turn, the pilot lamp and ballast filament serve as a sort of buffer resistor for the power supply. They absorb electrolytic surges upon warm turn-on, and also serve as a sort of fuse.
:
:Thomas

i notice the tube is a 50Y6 and Thomas's reply is for a 35Z5 would this still be accros pins 2 and 3

hmmmm...thought i read 35Z5. guess not.

thomas

:i notice the tube is a 50Y6 and Thomas's reply is for a 35Z5 would this still be accros pins 2 and 3

The 50Y6 tube does not have a pilot lamp ballast. You must provide a separate ballast if you wish to use a pilot light in your radio. Keep both 50 volt tubes and both 12 volt tubes. Don't change the 50L6 to a 35L6. The line up you have now is perfect....124 volts, which is great for 120 volt operation. For a pilot lamp, use a 1 or 2 watt resistor from 30 to 47 ohms. I think 47 ohms is the correct resistance, but this may be too high, and cause premature bulb failure when the set is turned on and off repeatedly when warm. Wire this in series with the tube filaments at the end of the string that connects to the plates of the 50Y6 tube. Connect this resistor directly to the line cord, and connect the other end to the start of the filament string and the plates of the rectifier. All current for the radio should flow through this resistor. Connect a #47 pilot lamp in parallel with this resistor. Actually, you can use a 5 watt resistor....this will be a bit safer in case the bulb burns out. You should be able to turn the radio on and off several times when warm without the bulb burning out. If the bulb flashes too bright and burns out, decrease the resistance of the ballast resistor. If you achieve about 6.3 volts or 6 volts across the bulb when the radio is warmed up, this should be about right for surges, but if the surges, when the radio is turned off and then back on when warm burn out the bulb, then you need to decrease the resistance. You can also try a #44 bulb instead of a #47. #47 is the proper bulb to use, and will be of the correct brightness, but the #44 is of higher amperage, and will take surges better.

If you look at your radio and find this ballast resistor already in place in the radio, then all you have to do is wire a pilot lamp across it. The resistor is in series with the entire radio--filaments and all. Actually, if you wire in your own resistor, you may wire it to either side of the line cord. It really makes no difference which side it is in series with. Either way, all filament and B current will flow through it, which is what is desired. Having it connected to the B- side of the line cord is actually better, because that way if you adjust the bulb position while the set is on, you will not get a shock if you contact the bulb socket and the chassis at the same time.

Thomas

:i notice the tube is a 50Y6 and Thomas's reply is for a 35Z5 would this still be accros pins 2 and 3