If you know what I'm talking about, please help.
Thanks,
Dave...
http://antiqueradio.org/rca09.htm
In the second picture I see that the set is upside down and right above where the HV lead is coming from the back of the HV box, you can see the two capacitors with the resistor between them. I see a yellow band on the one in the picture along with a blue band. But the picture is so poor I cannot really tell for sure what the value is.
Please help.
Thanks,
Dave...
:Hello All,
: I do not know the value of a burned (and snapped in half) resistor in this set and it's a little difficult to describe where it is without a schematic. I have replaced all the paper and filter capacitors, as I usually do. It has two symptoms. Vertical foldover at the bottom and a weak sync signal. But I don't have the greatest antenna attached to it. I haven't tested the tubes in those areas yet.
: If I had the schematic, I'd know in a second what the value was and I don't want to buy it just to know the value of one resistor.
: I can see brown and black (10) as the first two digits but I cannot see the last band. So it could be anything from 100 ohms to 10 meg ohms.
: I can describe where it is in the tv looking from the back and what it's attached to. Directly behind the high voltatge box, it is attached to one end of a 270K resistor. The other end is attached to one end of a .1 microfarad capacitor. There are two .1 microfarad capacitors running between two terminal strips in that area. The resistor is in between these two capacitors physically.
:
: If you know what I'm talking about, please help.
:
:Thanks,
:
:Dave...
Where is the resistor connected? What tube and pin? If it haven't shifted value too much you might be able to measure one lead to broken center and then estimate overall value?
Norm
:Hello Again,
: That area is actually in a picture on this page:
:
:http://antiqueradio.org/rca09.htm
:
:In the second picture I see that the set is upside down and right above where the HV lead is coming from the back of the HV box, you can see the two capacitors with the resistor between them. I see a yellow band on the one in the picture along with a blue band. But the picture is so poor I cannot really tell for sure what the value is.
: Please help.
: Thanks,
:
:Dave...
::Hello All,
:: I do not know the value of a burned (and snapped in half) resistor in this set and it's a little difficult to describe where it is without a schematic. I have replaced all the paper and filter capacitors, as I usually do. It has two symptoms. Vertical foldover at the bottom and a weak sync signal. But I don't have the greatest antenna attached to it. I haven't tested the tubes in those areas yet.
:: If I had the schematic, I'd know in a second what the value was and I don't want to buy it just to know the value of one resistor.
:: I can see brown and black (10) as the first two digits but I cannot see the last band. So it could be anything from 100 ohms to 10 meg ohms.
:: I can describe where it is in the tv looking from the back and what it's attached to. Directly behind the high voltatge box, it is attached to one end of a 270K resistor. The other end is attached to one end of a .1 microfarad capacitor. There are two .1 microfarad capacitors running between two terminal strips in that area. The resistor is in between these two capacitors physically.
::
:: If you know what I'm talking about, please help.
::
::Thanks,
::
::Dave...
Thanks again for more help,
Dave...
:Hi Dave
:
: Where is the resistor connected? What tube and pin? If it haven't shifted value too much you might be able to measure one lead to broken center and then estimate overall value?
:
:Norm
::Hello Again,
:: That area is actually in a picture on this page:
::
::http://antiqueradio.org/rca09.htm
::
::In the second picture I see that the set is upside down and right above where the HV lead is coming from the back of the HV box, you can see the two capacitors with the resistor between them. I see a yellow band on the one in the picture along with a blue band. But the picture is so poor I cannot really tell for sure what the value is.
:: Please help.
:: Thanks,
::
::Dave...
:::Hello All,
::: I do not know the value of a burned (and snapped in half) resistor in this set and it's a little difficult to describe where it is without a schematic. I have replaced all the paper and filter capacitors, as I usually do. It has two symptoms. Vertical foldover at the bottom and a weak sync signal. But I don't have the greatest antenna attached to it. I haven't tested the tubes in those areas yet.
::: If I had the schematic, I'd know in a second what the value was and I don't want to buy it just to know the value of one resistor.
::: I can see brown and black (10) as the first two digits but I cannot see the last band. So it could be anything from 100 ohms to 10 meg ohms.
::: I can describe where it is in the tv looking from the back and what it's attached to. Directly behind the high voltatge box, it is attached to one end of a 270K resistor. The other end is attached to one end of a .1 microfarad capacitor. There are two .1 microfarad capacitors running between two terminal strips in that area. The resistor is in between these two capacitors physically.
:::
::: If you know what I'm talking about, please help.
:::
:::Thanks,
:::
:::Dave...
So if you can't find your trouble, check the so-called mica condensers. If you can crack the old units open nicely, you can even put a small new unit inside (ceramic disc), and then glue it back shut. It'll look more original that way. When replacing condensers in anything other than the audio and power section, capacitance value is very critical, so try to keep values right on. If you can't get the value right on, try the value you are able to obtain, but keep in mind that any new trouble may be due to the value being off. The higher the value, the lower the frequency range extends down to. This is also critical in audio circuits, actually, but is done more to personal audio taste than for functionality, as audio circuits will function with a broad range of condensers. If too large a value is put in, though, there may be so much bass that the amplifier distorts easily.
Also, try not to use the WD-40 volume control trick with any vertical/horizontal/sync. potentiometers. I tried this trick with the dirty and scratchy vertical hold control on my BT-100. The control worked great after the WD-40 initially, but after only a short amount of time, some of the carbon made a leakage path through the WD-40 to the pot. housing, and threw everything off. After this happened, I could not get the vertical hold to sync, and I couldn't figure out what was wrong for a long time, either. Finally I took the control apart and cleaned it, and now the set works well.
Thomas
:Hi Norm,
: From the picture it looked like a 68K. So I tried it and the vertical foldover went away. The picture looks good. But I have to cure the sync problem. I tested the sync tubes and one of the 6CH8 has a weak section. Also the otehr 6CH8s has a weak section.
: What tube does it connect to hmmm. Just a second, I will look. One end of the resistor connects to a .047 microfarad capacitor and then to what looks like pin 4 on the 6AX4 on the other end of the capacitor.
: The sync problem may be due to a bad antenna. I cannot get the horizontal frequency exacly right. No mater what, when it syncs, I get the horizontal bar dead center insted of out of the way. So one half of the picture is on the right (the left part) and half on the left (the right part). That may also be a slight adjustment of the horizontal frequency coil. However I don't know which one it is.
: It's a nice bright raster. The Aquadag coating is peeling off the tube but it still works. A little phosphor is missing in the center of the screen. Probably because someone turned up the brightness when there wasn't any deflection.
: I am enjoying this set. I also have the smaller version to work on after this.
:
:Thanks again for more help,
:
:Dave...
::Hi Dave
::
:: Where is the resistor connected? What tube and pin? If it haven't shifted value too much you might be able to measure one lead to broken center and then estimate overall value?
::
::Norm
:::Hello Again,
::: That area is actually in a picture on this page:
:::
:::http://antiqueradio.org/rca09.htm
:::
:::In the second picture I see that the set is upside down and right above where the HV lead is coming from the back of the HV box, you can see the two capacitors with the resistor between them. I see a yellow band on the one in the picture along with a blue band. But the picture is so poor I cannot really tell for sure what the value is.
::: Please help.
::: Thanks,
:::
:::Dave...
::::Hello All,
:::: I do not know the value of a burned (and snapped in half) resistor in this set and it's a little difficult to describe where it is without a schematic. I have replaced all the paper and filter capacitors, as I usually do. It has two symptoms. Vertical foldover at the bottom and a weak sync signal. But I don't have the greatest antenna attached to it. I haven't tested the tubes in those areas yet.
:::: If I had the schematic, I'd know in a second what the value was and I don't want to buy it just to know the value of one resistor.
:::: I can see brown and black (10) as the first two digits but I cannot see the last band. So it could be anything from 100 ohms to 10 meg ohms.
:::: I can describe where it is in the tv looking from the back and what it's attached to. Directly behind the high voltatge box, it is attached to one end of a 270K resistor. The other end is attached to one end of a .1 microfarad capacitor. There are two .1 microfarad capacitors running between two terminal strips in that area. The resistor is in between these two capacitors physically.
::::
:::: If you know what I'm talking about, please help.
::::
::::Thanks,
::::
::::Dave...
Thanks,
Dave...
:If you have a horizontal sync. problem, of course check the tubes, but another problem may lie in condensers. You said you replaced all the paper condensers. Did you replace the mica ones? Those are the little bakelite units with colored dots on them. A lot of people assume that these do not short, and furthermore, that these are actually mica. My DeWald BT-100 (RCA 630TS chassis) television had a lot of trouble with the horizontal sync. I could not get it to stabilize. Sometimes it would hold a picture, but the picture would jitter around. Well, the 82 pf condenser that feeds the signal from the sync. separator circuits to the horizontal discriminator circuit had developed a partial short, and also was arcing occasionally, which caused the jitters. Nothing would stabilize even with new tubes, and after replacement of the condenser, even the weak old tubes worked well. Then I cracked the condenser open with a knife. It was a PAPER condenser! I tested all of the bakelite housed condensers that look like mica condensers in this set. Many were leaky, and each one that I cracked open was PAPER! Amazing!
:
:So if you can't find your trouble, check the so-called mica condensers. If you can crack the old units open nicely, you can even put a small new unit inside (ceramic disc), and then glue it back shut. It'll look more original that way. When replacing condensers in anything other than the audio and power section, capacitance value is very critical, so try to keep values right on. If you can't get the value right on, try the value you are able to obtain, but keep in mind that any new trouble may be due to the value being off. The higher the value, the lower the frequency range extends down to. This is also critical in audio circuits, actually, but is done more to personal audio taste than for functionality, as audio circuits will function with a broad range of condensers. If too large a value is put in, though, there may be so much bass that the amplifier distorts easily.
:
:Also, try not to use the WD-40 volume control trick with any vertical/horizontal/sync. potentiometers. I tried this trick with the dirty and scratchy vertical hold control on my BT-100. The control worked great after the WD-40 initially, but after only a short amount of time, some of the carbon made a leakage path through the WD-40 to the pot. housing, and threw everything off. After this happened, I could not get the vertical hold to sync, and I couldn't figure out what was wrong for a long time, either. Finally I took the control apart and cleaned it, and now the set works well.
:
:Thomas
:
::Hi Norm,
:: From the picture it looked like a 68K. So I tried it and the vertical foldover went away. The picture looks good. But I have to cure the sync problem. I tested the sync tubes and one of the 6CH8 has a weak section. Also the otehr 6CH8s has a weak section.
:: What tube does it connect to hmmm. Just a second, I will look. One end of the resistor connects to a .047 microfarad capacitor and then to what looks like pin 4 on the 6AX4 on the other end of the capacitor.
:: The sync problem may be due to a bad antenna. I cannot get the horizontal frequency exacly right. No mater what, when it syncs, I get the horizontal bar dead center insted of out of the way. So one half of the picture is on the right (the left part) and half on the left (the right part). That may also be a slight adjustment of the horizontal frequency coil. However I don't know which one it is.
:: It's a nice bright raster. The Aquadag coating is peeling off the tube but it still works. A little phosphor is missing in the center of the screen. Probably because someone turned up the brightness when there wasn't any deflection.
:: I am enjoying this set. I also have the smaller version to work on after this.
::
::Thanks again for more help,
::
::Dave...
:::Hi Dave
:::
::: Where is the resistor connected? What tube and pin? If it haven't shifted value too much you might be able to measure one lead to broken center and then estimate overall value?
:::
:::Norm
::::Hello Again,
:::: That area is actually in a picture on this page:
::::
::::http://antiqueradio.org/rca09.htm
::::
::::In the second picture I see that the set is upside down and right above where the HV lead is coming from the back of the HV box, you can see the two capacitors with the resistor between them. I see a yellow band on the one in the picture along with a blue band. But the picture is so poor I cannot really tell for sure what the value is.
:::: Please help.
:::: Thanks,
::::
::::Dave...
:::::Hello All,
::::: I do not know the value of a burned (and snapped in half) resistor in this set and it's a little difficult to describe where it is without a schematic. I have replaced all the paper and filter capacitors, as I usually do. It has two symptoms. Vertical foldover at the bottom and a weak sync signal. But I don't have the greatest antenna attached to it. I haven't tested the tubes in those areas yet.
::::: If I had the schematic, I'd know in a second what the value was and I don't want to buy it just to know the value of one resistor.
::::: I can see brown and black (10) as the first two digits but I cannot see the last band. So it could be anything from 100 ohms to 10 meg ohms.
::::: I can describe where it is in the tv looking from the back and what it's attached to. Directly behind the high voltatge box, it is attached to one end of a 270K resistor. The other end is attached to one end of a .1 microfarad capacitor. There are two .1 microfarad capacitors running between two terminal strips in that area. The resistor is in between these two capacitors physically.
:::::
::::: If you know what I'm talking about, please help.
:::::
:::::Thanks,
:::::
:::::Dave...
Thanks,
Dave...
:Thomas,
: Oh, yes. High frequencies, mica capacitors. A very good thought. I will replace those too. I'm not sure if there are any. I do see a lot of disc capacitors though.
: I never use flammable WD-40 in a tv set. Besides, it's too smelly.
:I have both a vertical and horizontal sync problem. I have the wavy picture too. So horizontal phase seems like the answer.
:
:
:Thanks,
:
:Dave...
::If you have a horizontal sync. problem, of course check the tubes, but another problem may lie in condensers. You said you replaced all the paper condensers. Did you replace the mica ones? Those are the little bakelite units with colored dots on them. A lot of people assume that these do not short, and furthermore, that these are actually mica. My DeWald BT-100 (RCA 630TS chassis) television had a lot of trouble with the horizontal sync. I could not get it to stabilize. Sometimes it would hold a picture, but the picture would jitter around. Well, the 82 pf condenser that feeds the signal from the sync. separator circuits to the horizontal discriminator circuit had developed a partial short, and also was arcing occasionally, which caused the jitters. Nothing would stabilize even with new tubes, and after replacement of the condenser, even the weak old tubes worked well. Then I cracked the condenser open with a knife. It was a PAPER condenser! I tested all of the bakelite housed condensers that look like mica condensers in this set. Many were leaky, and each one that I cracked open was PAPER! Amazing!
::
::So if you can't find your trouble, check the so-called mica condensers. If you can crack the old units open nicely, you can even put a small new unit inside (ceramic disc), and then glue it back shut. It'll look more original that way. When replacing condensers in anything other than the audio and power section, capacitance value is very critical, so try to keep values right on. If you can't get the value right on, try the value you are able to obtain, but keep in mind that any new trouble may be due to the value being off. The higher the value, the lower the frequency range extends down to. This is also critical in audio circuits, actually, but is done more to personal audio taste than for functionality, as audio circuits will function with a broad range of condensers. If too large a value is put in, though, there may be so much bass that the amplifier distorts easily.
::
::Also, try not to use the WD-40 volume control trick with any vertical/horizontal/sync. potentiometers. I tried this trick with the dirty and scratchy vertical hold control on my BT-100. The control worked great after the WD-40 initially, but after only a short amount of time, some of the carbon made a leakage path through the WD-40 to the pot. housing, and threw everything off. After this happened, I could not get the vertical hold to sync, and I couldn't figure out what was wrong for a long time, either. Finally I took the control apart and cleaned it, and now the set works well.
::
::Thomas
::
:::Hi Norm,
::: From the picture it looked like a 68K. So I tried it and the vertical foldover went away. The picture looks good. But I have to cure the sync problem. I tested the sync tubes and one of the 6CH8 has a weak section. Also the otehr 6CH8s has a weak section.
::: What tube does it connect to hmmm. Just a second, I will look. One end of the resistor connects to a .047 microfarad capacitor and then to what looks like pin 4 on the 6AX4 on the other end of the capacitor.
::: The sync problem may be due to a bad antenna. I cannot get the horizontal frequency exacly right. No mater what, when it syncs, I get the horizontal bar dead center insted of out of the way. So one half of the picture is on the right (the left part) and half on the left (the right part). That may also be a slight adjustment of the horizontal frequency coil. However I don't know which one it is.
::: It's a nice bright raster. The Aquadag coating is peeling off the tube but it still works. A little phosphor is missing in the center of the screen. Probably because someone turned up the brightness when there wasn't any deflection.
::: I am enjoying this set. I also have the smaller version to work on after this.
:::
:::Thanks again for more help,
:::
:::Dave...
::::Hi Dave
::::
:::: Where is the resistor connected? What tube and pin? If it haven't shifted value too much you might be able to measure one lead to broken center and then estimate overall value?
::::
::::Norm
:::::Hello Again,
::::: That area is actually in a picture on this page:
:::::
:::::http://antiqueradio.org/rca09.htm
:::::
:::::In the second picture I see that the set is upside down and right above where the HV lead is coming from the back of the HV box, you can see the two capacitors with the resistor between them. I see a yellow band on the one in the picture along with a blue band. But the picture is so poor I cannot really tell for sure what the value is.
::::: Please help.
::::: Thanks,
:::::
:::::Dave...
::::::Hello All,
:::::: I do not know the value of a burned (and snapped in half) resistor in this set and it's a little difficult to describe where it is without a schematic. I have replaced all the paper and filter capacitors, as I usually do. It has two symptoms. Vertical foldover at the bottom and a weak sync signal. But I don't have the greatest antenna attached to it. I haven't tested the tubes in those areas yet.
:::::: If I had the schematic, I'd know in a second what the value was and I don't want to buy it just to know the value of one resistor.
:::::: I can see brown and black (10) as the first two digits but I cannot see the last band. So it could be anything from 100 ohms to 10 meg ohms.
:::::: I can describe where it is in the tv looking from the back and what it's attached to. Directly behind the high voltatge box, it is attached to one end of a 270K resistor. The other end is attached to one end of a .1 microfarad capacitor. There are two .1 microfarad capacitors running between two terminal strips in that area. The resistor is in between these two capacitors physically.
::::::
:::::: If you know what I'm talking about, please help.
::::::
::::::Thanks,
::::::
::::::Dave...
Thomas
:Thomas,
: Oh, yes. High frequencies, mica capacitors. A very good thought. I will replace those too. I'm not sure if there are any. I do see a lot of disc capacitors though.
: I never use flammable WD-40 in a tv set. Besides, it's too smelly.
:I have both a vertical and horizontal sync problem. I have the wavy picture too. So horizontal phase seems like the answer.
:
:
:Thanks,
:
:Dave...
::If you have a horizontal sync. problem, of course check the tubes, but another problem may lie in condensers. You said you replaced all the paper condensers. Did you replace the mica ones? Those are the little bakelite units with colored dots on them. A lot of people assume that these do not short, and furthermore, that these are actually mica. My DeWald BT-100 (RCA 630TS chassis) television had a lot of trouble with the horizontal sync. I could not get it to stabilize. Sometimes it would hold a picture, but the picture would jitter around. Well, the 82 pf condenser that feeds the signal from the sync. separator circuits to the horizontal discriminator circuit had developed a partial short, and also was arcing occasionally, which caused the jitters. Nothing would stabilize even with new tubes, and after replacement of the condenser, even the weak old tubes worked well. Then I cracked the condenser open with a knife. It was a PAPER condenser! I tested all of the bakelite housed condensers that look like mica condensers in this set. Many were leaky, and each one that I cracked open was PAPER! Amazing!
::
::So if you can't find your trouble, check the so-called mica condensers. If you can crack the old units open nicely, you can even put a small new unit inside (ceramic disc), and then glue it back shut. It'll look more original that way. When replacing condensers in anything other than the audio and power section, capacitance value is very critical, so try to keep values right on. If you can't get the value right on, try the value you are able to obtain, but keep in mind that any new trouble may be due to the value being off. The higher the value, the lower the frequency range extends down to. This is also critical in audio circuits, actually, but is done more to personal audio taste than for functionality, as audio circuits will function with a broad range of condensers. If too large a value is put in, though, there may be so much bass that the amplifier distorts easily.
::
::Also, try not to use the WD-40 volume control trick with any vertical/horizontal/sync. potentiometers. I tried this trick with the dirty and scratchy vertical hold control on my BT-100. The control worked great after the WD-40 initially, but after only a short amount of time, some of the carbon made a leakage path through the WD-40 to the pot. housing, and threw everything off. After this happened, I could not get the vertical hold to sync, and I couldn't figure out what was wrong for a long time, either. Finally I took the control apart and cleaned it, and now the set works well.
::
::Thomas
::
:::Hi Norm,
::: From the picture it looked like a 68K. So I tried it and the vertical foldover went away. The picture looks good. But I have to cure the sync problem. I tested the sync tubes and one of the 6CH8 has a weak section. Also the otehr 6CH8s has a weak section.
::: What tube does it connect to hmmm. Just a second, I will look. One end of the resistor connects to a .047 microfarad capacitor and then to what looks like pin 4 on the 6AX4 on the other end of the capacitor.
::: The sync problem may be due to a bad antenna. I cannot get the horizontal frequency exacly right. No mater what, when it syncs, I get the horizontal bar dead center insted of out of the way. So one half of the picture is on the right (the left part) and half on the left (the right part). That may also be a slight adjustment of the horizontal frequency coil. However I don't know which one it is.
::: It's a nice bright raster. The Aquadag coating is peeling off the tube but it still works. A little phosphor is missing in the center of the screen. Probably because someone turned up the brightness when there wasn't any deflection.
::: I am enjoying this set. I also have the smaller version to work on after this.
:::
:::Thanks again for more help,
:::
:::Dave...
::::Hi Dave
::::
:::: Where is the resistor connected? What tube and pin? If it haven't shifted value too much you might be able to measure one lead to broken center and then estimate overall value?
::::
::::Norm
:::::Hello Again,
::::: That area is actually in a picture on this page:
:::::
:::::http://antiqueradio.org/rca09.htm
:::::
:::::In the second picture I see that the set is upside down and right above where the HV lead is coming from the back of the HV box, you can see the two capacitors with the resistor between them. I see a yellow band on the one in the picture along with a blue band. But the picture is so poor I cannot really tell for sure what the value is.
::::: Please help.
::::: Thanks,
:::::
:::::Dave...
::::::Hello All,
:::::: I do not know the value of a burned (and snapped in half) resistor in this set and it's a little difficult to describe where it is without a schematic. I have replaced all the paper and filter capacitors, as I usually do. It has two symptoms. Vertical foldover at the bottom and a weak sync signal. But I don't have the greatest antenna attached to it. I haven't tested the tubes in those areas yet.
:::::: If I had the schematic, I'd know in a second what the value was and I don't want to buy it just to know the value of one resistor.
:::::: I can see brown and black (10) as the first two digits but I cannot see the last band. So it could be anything from 100 ohms to 10 meg ohms.
:::::: I can describe where it is in the tv looking from the back and what it's attached to. Directly behind the high voltatge box, it is attached to one end of a 270K resistor. The other end is attached to one end of a .1 microfarad capacitor. There are two .1 microfarad capacitors running between two terminal strips in that area. The resistor is in between these two capacitors physically.
::::::
:::::: If you know what I'm talking about, please help.
::::::
::::::Thanks,
::::::
::::::Dave...
Thanks everyone,
Dave...
By the way: This is actually a 14-S-7070U not G. But I don't think that there's any difference between the two models.
:Hi Dave
:
: Where is the resistor connected? What tube and pin? If it haven't shifted value too much you might be able to measure one lead to broken center and then estimate overall value?
:
:Norm
::Hello Again,
:: That area is actually in a picture on this page:
::
::http://antiqueradio.org/rca09.htm
::
::In the second picture I see that the set is upside down and right above where the HV lead is coming from the back of the HV box, you can see the two capacitors with the resistor between them. I see a yellow band on the one in the picture along with a blue band. But the picture is so poor I cannot really tell for sure what the value is.
:: Please help.
:: Thanks,
::
::Dave...
:::Hello All,
::: I do not know the value of a burned (and snapped in half) resistor in this set and it's a little difficult to describe where it is without a schematic. I have replaced all the paper and filter capacitors, as I usually do. It has two symptoms. Vertical foldover at the bottom and a weak sync signal. But I don't have the greatest antenna attached to it. I haven't tested the tubes in those areas yet.
::: If I had the schematic, I'd know in a second what the value was and I don't want to buy it just to know the value of one resistor.
::: I can see brown and black (10) as the first two digits but I cannot see the last band. So it could be anything from 100 ohms to 10 meg ohms.
::: I can describe where it is in the tv looking from the back and what it's attached to. Directly behind the high voltatge box, it is attached to one end of a 270K resistor. The other end is attached to one end of a .1 microfarad capacitor. There are two .1 microfarad capacitors running between two terminal strips in that area. The resistor is in between these two capacitors physically.
:::
::: If you know what I'm talking about, please help.
:::
:::Thanks,
:::
:::Dave...
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
:Hello All,
: I do not know the value of a burned (and snapped in half) resistor in this set and it's a little difficult to describe where it is without a schematic. I have replaced all the paper and filter capacitors, as I usually do. It has two symptoms. Vertical foldover at the bottom and a weak sync signal. But I don't have the greatest antenna attached to it. I haven't tested the tubes in those areas yet.
: If I had the schematic, I'd know in a second what the value was and I don't want to buy it just to know the value of one resistor.
: I can see brown and black (10) as the first two digits but I cannot see the last band. So it could be anything from 100 ohms to 10 meg ohms.
: I can describe where it is in the tv looking from the back and what it's attached to. Directly behind the high voltatge box, it is attached to one end of a 270K resistor. The other end is attached to one end of a .1 microfarad capacitor. There are two .1 microfarad capacitors running between two terminal strips in that area. The resistor is in between these two capacitors physically.
:
: If you know what I'm talking about, please help.
:
:Thanks,
:
:Dave...
Thanks,
Dave...
:
:--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
:The first time I tried your reference site , it didn’t come up, but later I was able to check it out for visual referencing. BTW, is this your site or by chance did u just happen to luck u on that picture. I am easily able to make out a ½ w 330k 10% comp carbon top right center chassis and what looks like a 680k below it. The circled res seems to have a gray first band and a yellow second….which is not a logical sequence for a RETMA value….an the third band seems to take on a white…which also cannot be. If this ties onto the damper to pin 4 they would just be using a blank pin on that socket as a tie point.
:If actually tied into the damper, there is quite a healthy B boosted boost voltage level available there, which could open a 10’s of k’s value of resistor, or easily, a lower value .
:Your red circle covers it up, but does this resistor tie to the same connection that the 680k res coming down does?
:I see the two inductors, the width coil and the hoz osc coil in the photo, but I really think that your problem is going to be a leaky hoz phasing diode pair just in front of the hoz osc AFC circuitry. Typically when the hoz is set to within one slanting line the set will snap into hoz sync. However you are not getting that action and just a resultant hoz phasing bar. You mentioned 6CH8’s which you could interchange, buy I thought I remembered a 6FQ7 as the hoz osc/AFC. I will check for schema info that I do not have at this site and find out the value of that res for you…. In the interim…any other questionable parts ID’s needed at the same time??
:Now THE RCA set that was REALLY neat at that time was the same red /gold trim set with a smaller picture tube and was the small size of a shoebox. That set….with time…. later really showed vert problems due to its tube heat/cramped conditions, more so than the set mentioned in the article.
:73’s de Edd
:
:--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
:
::Hello All,
:: I do not know the value of a burned (and snapped in half) resistor in this set and it's a little difficult to describe where it is without a schematic. I have replaced all the paper and filter capacitors, as I usually do. It has two symptoms. Vertical foldover at the bottom and a weak sync signal. But I don't have the greatest antenna attached to it. I haven't tested the tubes in those areas yet.
:: If I had the schematic, I'd know in a second what the value was and I don't want to buy it just to know the value of one resistor.
:: I can see brown and black (10) as the first two digits but I cannot see the last band. So it could be anything from 100 ohms to 10 meg ohms.
:: I can describe where it is in the tv looking from the back and what it's attached to. Directly behind the high voltatge box, it is attached to one end of a 270K resistor. The other end is attached to one end of a .1 microfarad capacitor. There are two .1 microfarad capacitors running between two terminal strips in that area. The resistor is in between these two capacitors physically.
::
:: If you know what I'm talking about, please help.
::
::Thanks,
::
::Dave...
Thanks,
Dave...
:
:------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
:Ohhhhh, on the website...I thought that it was yours, and that you had just added the red circles on for reference later...that was one sick looking large paper cap under the HV cage though..
:Still haven't got to my post neanderthal schematics, and it has been a long time but seems like those phasing diodes were in a rectangular housing and made of micro selenium stacks..hopefully the polarity symbols might be marked on the casing sides. Seems that they used common cathodes, common anodes and series strung amongst different manufacturers configurations. Possibly you can still differentiate with ohmic readings for ascertaining their polarities if not marked. You would want to try a 1N4148 or 1N914/6 pair instead of the slow sw speed 1n4xxx series.
:73's de Edd
:------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
::Edd,
:: This is not my website. But the picture clearly showed the resistor. The circles are no where near the resistor in question. The person who made that page was pointing out the old paper capacitors that we all replace. That's the first thing we do. Then we can see if the set has problems.
:: I believe that the resistor is a 68K ohm resistor. It's connected to the 270K ohm resistor on top and the other end connects to a .1 microfarad capacitor. The other end of that capacitor appears to connect to pin 4 on the damper tube.
:: I am just having trouble getting the vertical and horizontal to lock. The sync seems to be very week, if there is any at all because I can get the pictue to slow down.
:: I thought that the phasing may be off a little bit. It does give me a good picture occasionally. Many of the tubes seem to be good. I replaced a 6CH8 (sync) that had a weak section. But it made no difference.
:: Can I use 1N4006 or similar silicon to replace them or do I need to use germanium? I don't think I have to get the block with the two diodes to get it to work.
:: I will try it.
::
::Thanks,
::
::Dave...
:::
:::--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
:::The first time I tried your reference site , it didn’t come up, but later I was able to check it out for visual referencing. BTW, is this your site or by chance did u just happen to luck u on that picture. I am easily able to make out a ½ w 330k 10% comp carbon top right center chassis and what looks like a 680k below it. The circled res seems to have a gray first band and a yellow second….which is not a logical sequence for a RETMA value….an the third band seems to take on a white…which also cannot be. If this ties onto the damper to pin 4 they would just be using a blank pin on that socket as a tie point.
:::If actually tied into the damper, there is quite a healthy B boosted boost voltage level available there, which could open a 10’s of k’s value of resistor, or easily, a lower value .
:::Your red circle covers it up, but does this resistor tie to the same connection that the 680k res coming down does?
:::I see the two inductors, the width coil and the hoz osc coil in the photo, but I really think that your problem is going to be a leaky hoz phasing diode pair just in front of the hoz osc AFC circuitry. Typically when the hoz is set to within one slanting line the set will snap into hoz sync. However you are not getting that action and just a resultant hoz phasing bar. You mentioned 6CH8’s which you could interchange, buy I thought I remembered a 6FQ7 as the hoz osc/AFC. I will check for schema info that I do not have at this site and find out the value of that res for you…. In the interim…any other questionable parts ID’s needed at the same time??
:::Now THE RCA set that was REALLY neat at that time was the same red /gold trim set with a smaller picture tube and was the small size of a shoebox. That set….with time…. later really showed vert problems due to its tube heat/cramped conditions, more so than the set mentioned in the article.
:::73’s de Edd
:::
:::--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
:::
::::Hello All,
:::: I do not know the value of a burned (and snapped in half) resistor in this set and it's a little difficult to describe where it is without a schematic. I have replaced all the paper and filter capacitors, as I usually do. It has two symptoms. Vertical foldover at the bottom and a weak sync signal. But I don't have the greatest antenna attached to it. I haven't tested the tubes in those areas yet.
:::: If I had the schematic, I'd know in a second what the value was and I don't want to buy it just to know the value of one resistor.
:::: I can see brown and black (10) as the first two digits but I cannot see the last band. So it could be anything from 100 ohms to 10 meg ohms.
:::: I can describe where it is in the tv looking from the back and what it's attached to. Directly behind the high voltatge box, it is attached to one end of a 270K resistor. The other end is attached to one end of a .1 microfarad capacitor. There are two .1 microfarad capacitors running between two terminal strips in that area. The resistor is in between these two capacitors physically.
::::
:::: If you know what I'm talking about, please help.
::::
::::Thanks,
::::
::::Dave...
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Edd,
: I didn' t need to do that. I had just made a little mistake and corrected it and I'm fine. Where is the FM detector coil in this set. I am getting a buzz in the sound when the picture is tuned in. So I need to adjust it.
:
:Thanks,
:
:Dave...
::
::------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
::Ohhhhh, on the website...I thought that it was yours, and that you had just added the red circles on for reference later...that was one sick looking large paper cap under the HV cage though..
::Still haven't got to my post neanderthal schematics, and it has been a long time but seems like those phasing diodes were in a rectangular housing and made of micro selenium stacks..hopefully the polarity symbols might be marked on the casing sides. Seems that they used common cathodes, common anodes and series strung amongst different manufacturers configurations. Possibly you can still differentiate with ohmic readings for ascertaining their polarities if not marked. You would want to try a 1N4148 or 1N914/6 pair instead of the slow sw speed 1n4xxx series.
::73's de Edd
::------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
:::Edd,
::: This is not my website. But the picture clearly showed the resistor. The circles are no where near the resistor in question. The person who made that page was pointing out the old paper capacitors that we all replace. That's the first thing we do. Then we can see if the set has problems.
::: I believe that the resistor is a 68K ohm resistor. It's connected to the 270K ohm resistor on top and the other end connects to a .1 microfarad capacitor. The other end of that capacitor appears to connect to pin 4 on the damper tube.
::: I am just having trouble getting the vertical and horizontal to lock. The sync seems to be very week, if there is any at all because I can get the pictue to slow down.
::: I thought that the phasing may be off a little bit. It does give me a good picture occasionally. Many of the tubes seem to be good. I replaced a 6CH8 (sync) that had a weak section. But it made no difference.
::: Can I use 1N4006 or similar silicon to replace them or do I need to use germanium? I don't think I have to get the block with the two diodes to get it to work.
::: I will try it.
:::
:::Thanks,
:::
:::Dave...
::::
::::--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
::::The first time I tried your reference site , it didn’t come up, but later I was able to check it out for visual referencing. BTW, is this your site or by chance did u just happen to luck u on that picture. I am easily able to make out a ½ w 330k 10% comp carbon top right center chassis and what looks like a 680k below it. The circled res seems to have a gray first band and a yellow second….which is not a logical sequence for a RETMA value….an the third band seems to take on a white…which also cannot be. If this ties onto the damper to pin 4 they would just be using a blank pin on that socket as a tie point.
::::If actually tied into the damper, there is quite a healthy B boosted boost voltage level available there, which could open a 10’s of k’s value of resistor, or easily, a lower value .
::::Your red circle covers it up, but does this resistor tie to the same connection that the 680k res coming down does?
::::I see the two inductors, the width coil and the hoz osc coil in the photo, but I really think that your problem is going to be a leaky hoz phasing diode pair just in front of the hoz osc AFC circuitry. Typically when the hoz is set to within one slanting line the set will snap into hoz sync. However you are not getting that action and just a resultant hoz phasing bar. You mentioned 6CH8’s which you could interchange, buy I thought I remembered a 6FQ7 as the hoz osc/AFC. I will check for schema info that I do not have at this site and find out the value of that res for you…. In the interim…any other questionable parts ID’s needed at the same time??
::::Now THE RCA set that was REALLY neat at that time was the same red /gold trim set with a smaller picture tube and was the small size of a shoebox. That set….with time…. later really showed vert problems due to its tube heat/cramped conditions, more so than the set mentioned in the article.
::::73’s de Edd
::::
::::--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
::::
:::::Hello All,
::::: I do not know the value of a burned (and snapped in half) resistor in this set and it's a little difficult to describe where it is without a schematic. I have replaced all the paper and filter capacitors, as I usually do. It has two symptoms. Vertical foldover at the bottom and a weak sync signal. But I don't have the greatest antenna attached to it. I haven't tested the tubes in those areas yet.
::::: If I had the schematic, I'd know in a second what the value was and I don't want to buy it just to know the value of one resistor.
::::: I can see brown and black (10) as the first two digits but I cannot see the last band. So it could be anything from 100 ohms to 10 meg ohms.
::::: I can describe where it is in the tv looking from the back and what it's attached to. Directly behind the high voltatge box, it is attached to one end of a 270K resistor. The other end is attached to one end of a .1 microfarad capacitor. There are two .1 microfarad capacitors running between two terminal strips in that area. The resistor is in between these two capacitors physically.
:::::
::::: If you know what I'm talking about, please help.
:::::
:::::Thanks,
:::::
:::::Dave...
Thank you thank you thank you.
That solved the problem.
Dave...
:------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
:OHH TAY... looks like your UFO (Unidentified Fried O-Resistor) is a 68k
:1/2 W carbon composition that is connected to the ~+560VDC recovered boost voltage from the gray wire off the “Fryback” and after that voltage is passed
:thru “the” 68k, it is filtered by one of the .1ufd caps that is on the left term strip lug with that caps ground side going to 240 V main B+. That 68k resistors output goes two ways, one is to the 270 k resistor on the terminal strips same lug and then the other side of that 270k gets filtered by a .1 ufd in the same manner, with it also bypass ground referencing to main B+. That 270 k's sole feed is for the high end of the 5 Meg vert height control. Now over to where you were having trouble,if that 68K resistor was charred or open the only part to suspicion would be that paper .1 cap tied to that lug, as the other end of that lines has a 1 meg
:resistor on it, so any potential grounding would be 1 meg isolated. The other more likely possibility is a flashover in the 6DQ6 HO or 6AX4 damper tubes.
:Give them a tappa-tappa-TAPPA test while operating and looking down topside
:at the tubes internal elements. Now back to the previously mentioned other route of the boost voltage after it passes thru the 68K resistor. It heads up to a 1 meg resistor to provide your plate voltage to pin 5….of all things …your 6DT6 sound detector tube. The logic, thusly, in the very first days of TV the audio circuitry was
:powered up by the main B+ and the sound was ready and awaiting for the pic to show , unfortunately the sweep circuit took a bit longer to develop and it also started pulling different levels of current. The sound circuitry sat over there and if it picked up any B+ variance and shifting changing frequencies from the vert and hoz sweep circuits as well as RF freq shifts and heterodynes it just reproduced them with all sorts of pops burps and squeals in the sound circuitry .So some one came up with the idea of acquiring the voltage for a stage of the low level audio circuitry from the boost drive, seems like it doesn’t come up to its full potential until the hoz sweep circuitry is up and running. Thus the muting of the sound until a stable raster is up, solving the prior sound deficiency.
:Looks like your sound is stripped from the plate(9) of the video output 6AW8 via a 3 picofarad cap and then goes to the 1st grid (Pin 1) of 4.5 Snd IF tube 6AU6, (located below/left of the 6AW8). to 6AU6’s right is the can shielded 4.5 snd take off coil.To the left of the 6AU6 is another can mounted offset 45deg, with the snd IF interstage windings. It feeds your snd quad det tube 6DT6 just under the vert control. Just below it is the top snap spring mount of a coil with its center slotted brass screw peeking out of the chassis. That is your sound detectors quadrature adjustment coil…which I believe will be your panacea.
:It seems that this is the only coil that a small or jewelers screwdriver will let you adjust, the sole sound take off and dual IF coils require a .1 in hex nylon/Delrin tool. Now considering that you are experiencing a buzz in the sound, possibly worse on a strong signal level and worsened even more by mis adjusting the tuners concentric rear fine tuning knob. The first thing to try is to get the buzz the worst and adjust the quad coil to minumize/eliminate the sound buzz. Take a reference mark on the screwdriver and it should not take more than ½ turn one direction or the other. If this doesn’t get it come back at me for further audio alignment procedures w/on air signal.
:FIO Schema voltages:
:6AU6 #1-1st gr minus 1 VDC, #2-K .7 VDC,#5-P 190VDC, #6-ScnG 120VDC
:6DT6 #1-1st gr 0 VDC, #2-K 2.3 VDC,#5-P 200VDC, #6-ScnG 120VDC , #7 Supp G….Ovdc.
:BTW….so your sync hoz phasing problems just disappeared?
:And your chassis is RCA # KCS 102B, (or D)
:73’s de Edd
:
:------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
:
:Edd,
:: I didn' t need to do that. I had just made a little mistake and corrected it and I'm fine. Where is the FM detector coil in this set. I am getting a buzz in the sound when the picture is tuned in. So I need to adjust it.
::
::Thanks,
::
::Dave...
:::
:::------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
:::Ohhhhh, on the website...I thought that it was yours, and that you had just added the red circles on for reference later...that was one sick looking large paper cap under the HV cage though..
:::Still haven't got to my post neanderthal schematics, and it has been a long time but seems like those phasing diodes were in a rectangular housing and made of micro selenium stacks..hopefully the polarity symbols might be marked on the casing sides. Seems that they used common cathodes, common anodes and series strung amongst different manufacturers configurations. Possibly you can still differentiate with ohmic readings for ascertaining their polarities if not marked. You would want to try a 1N4148 or 1N914/6 pair instead of the slow sw speed 1n4xxx series.
:::73's de Edd
:::------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
::::Edd,
:::: This is not my website. But the picture clearly showed the resistor. The circles are no where near the resistor in question. The person who made that page was pointing out the old paper capacitors that we all replace. That's the first thing we do. Then we can see if the set has problems.
:::: I believe that the resistor is a 68K ohm resistor. It's connected to the 270K ohm resistor on top and the other end connects to a .1 microfarad capacitor. The other end of that capacitor appears to connect to pin 4 on the damper tube.
:::: I am just having trouble getting the vertical and horizontal to lock. The sync seems to be very week, if there is any at all because I can get the pictue to slow down.
:::: I thought that the phasing may be off a little bit. It does give me a good picture occasionally. Many of the tubes seem to be good. I replaced a 6CH8 (sync) that had a weak section. But it made no difference.
:::: Can I use 1N4006 or similar silicon to replace them or do I need to use germanium? I don't think I have to get the block with the two diodes to get it to work.
:::: I will try it.
::::
::::Thanks,
::::
::::Dave...
:::::
:::::--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
:::::The first time I tried your reference site , it didn’t come up, but later I was able to check it out for visual referencing. BTW, is this your site or by chance did u just happen to luck u on that picture. I am easily able to make out a ½ w 330k 10% comp carbon top right center chassis and what looks like a 680k below it. The circled res seems to have a gray first band and a yellow second….which is not a logical sequence for a RETMA value….an the third band seems to take on a white…which also cannot be. If this ties onto the damper to pin 4 they would just be using a blank pin on that socket as a tie point.
:::::If actually tied into the damper, there is quite a healthy B boosted boost voltage level available there, which could open a 10’s of k’s value of resistor, or easily, a lower value .
:::::Your red circle covers it up, but does this resistor tie to the same connection that the 680k res coming down does?
:::::I see the two inductors, the width coil and the hoz osc coil in the photo, but I really think that your problem is going to be a leaky hoz phasing diode pair just in front of the hoz osc AFC circuitry. Typically when the hoz is set to within one slanting line the set will snap into hoz sync. However you are not getting that action and just a resultant hoz phasing bar. You mentioned 6CH8’s which you could interchange, buy I thought I remembered a 6FQ7 as the hoz osc/AFC. I will check for schema info that I do not have at this site and find out the value of that res for you…. In the interim…any other questionable parts ID’s needed at the same time??
:::::Now THE RCA set that was REALLY neat at that time was the same red /gold trim set with a smaller picture tube and was the small size of a shoebox. That set….with time…. later really showed vert problems due to its tube heat/cramped conditions, more so than the set mentioned in the article.
:::::73’s de Edd
:::::
:::::--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
:::::
::::::Hello All,
:::::: I do not know the value of a burned (and snapped in half) resistor in this set and it's a little difficult to describe where it is without a schematic. I have replaced all the paper and filter capacitors, as I usually do. It has two symptoms. Vertical foldover at the bottom and a weak sync signal. But I don't have the greatest antenna attached to it. I haven't tested the tubes in those areas yet.
:::::: If I had the schematic, I'd know in a second what the value was and I don't want to buy it just to know the value of one resistor.
:::::: I can see brown and black (10) as the first two digits but I cannot see the last band. So it could be anything from 100 ohms to 10 meg ohms.
:::::: I can describe where it is in the tv looking from the back and what it's attached to. Directly behind the high voltatge box, it is attached to one end of a 270K resistor. The other end is attached to one end of a .1 microfarad capacitor. There are two .1 microfarad capacitors running between two terminal strips in that area. The resistor is in between these two capacitors physically.
::::::
:::::: If you know what I'm talking about, please help.
::::::
::::::Thanks,
::::::
::::::Dave...