Hello,
I am a newbie to radio repair but I have a GE E-105 radio that was my grandfathers and I want to restore it. All the tubes have been removed. Does anyone know where I could buy replacement tubes? I am not even sure which tubes I need but I am trying to track down a schematic to help me with that one.

I would appreciate any info on this.

Thank you
Jeff

For tubes you could contact radiodaze.com, e-mail pmh@radiodaze.com and tell them what chassis and or model number you have and they can tell you what tubes you will need and usually they have the tubes for sale.

:Hello,
:I am a newbie to radio repair but I have a GE E-105 radio that was my grandfathers and I want to restore it. All the tubes have been removed. Does anyone know where I could buy replacement tubes? I am not even sure which tubes I need but I am trying to track down a schematic to help me with that one.
:
:I would appreciate any info on this.
:
:Thank you
:Jeff

The circuit diagram is in the Resources section of this web site. Tubes are: 5Z4, 6K7, 6K7, 6K7, 6A8, 6J7, 6H6, 6C5, 6F5, 6L6. The audio and rectifier tubes may be glass (5Z4, 6F5, 6L6), and should be of the G style, given the year your radio was made. If shields are available within the set (they're still present), you may also use G style tubes throughout the RF sections. If shields are not present, it is better to use metal tubes in the RF section, and leave the G off the ends of those tube numbers when ordering. Still, glass looks nice, and if you wish, you may try glass tubes in the RF section, and see how the set operates.

As all the tubes were removed, it is likely that something is wrong with the set. I strongly recommend replacing, or at least testing all condensers before powering up the set, and since you're a "newbe" to antique radio repair, you probably havn't heard of the method commonly used to slowly power up a set. To do so, take a board, and mount a light socket and an outlet on it. Wire them in series and attach a line cord. Plug in the radio into the outlet, and screw in a 60 watt bulb. Start with all tubes removed and check brightness of bulb with set on. Full brightness indicates short. Medium brightness also indicates some sort of short. Dim or nothing means everything's probably good. Put in the tubes, and slowly increase the wattage of the bulb. The bulb should not glow full brightness with tubes in place, if the bulb is equivilant to the wattage of the set or higher. If it glows full brightness, then you have shorts (such as electrolytics). Look for smoke and other problems as you raise the wattage of the bulb. Observe the rectifier plates. They should not glow at all.

Thomas
:For tubes you could contact radiodaze.com, e-mail pmh@radiodaze.com and tell them what chassis and or model number you have and they can tell you what tubes you will need and usually they have the tubes for sale.
:
::Hello,
::I am a newbie to radio repair but I have a GE E-105 radio that was my grandfathers and I want to restore it. All the tubes have been removed. Does anyone know where I could buy replacement tubes? I am not even sure which tubes I need but I am trying to track down a schematic to help me with that one.
::
::I would appreciate any info on this.
::
::Thank you
::Jeff

Thank you very much for the info....very informative!
What are the shields? I do have some lose wires with what looks like small caps on the ends that I think connect to the tubes. Are these the shields?

Thanks again.

:The circuit diagram is in the Resources section of this web site. Tubes are: 5Z4, 6K7, 6K7, 6K7, 6A8, 6J7, 6H6, 6C5, 6F5, 6L6. The audio and rectifier tubes may be glass (5Z4, 6F5, 6L6), and should be of the G style, given the year your radio was made. If shields are available within the set (they're still present), you may also use G style tubes throughout the RF sections. If shields are not present, it is better to use metal tubes in the RF section, and leave the G off the ends of those tube numbers when ordering. Still, glass looks nice, and if you wish, you may try glass tubes in the RF section, and see how the set operates.
:
:As all the tubes were removed, it is likely that something is wrong with the set. I strongly recommend replacing, or at least testing all condensers before powering up the set, and since you're a "newbe" to antique radio repair, you probably havn't heard of the method commonly used to slowly power up a set. To do so, take a board, and mount a light socket and an outlet on it. Wire them in series and attach a line cord. Plug in the radio into the outlet, and screw in a 60 watt bulb. Start with all tubes removed and check brightness of bulb with set on. Full brightness indicates short. Medium brightness also indicates some sort of short. Dim or nothing means everything's probably good. Put in the tubes, and slowly increase the wattage of the bulb. The bulb should not glow full brightness with tubes in place, if the bulb is equivilant to the wattage of the set or higher. If it glows full brightness, then you have shorts (such as electrolytics). Look for smoke and other problems as you raise the wattage of the bulb. Observe the rectifier plates. They should not glow at all.
:
:Thomas
::For tubes you could contact radiodaze.com, e-mail pmh@radiodaze.com and tell them what chassis and or model number you have and they can tell you what tubes you will need and usually they have the tubes for sale.
::
:::Hello,
:::I am a newbie to radio repair but I have a GE E-105 radio that was my grandfathers and I want to restore it. All the tubes have been removed. Does anyone know where I could buy replacement tubes? I am not even sure which tubes I need but I am trying to track down a schematic to help me with that one.
:::
:::I would appreciate any info on this.
:::
:::Thank you
:::Jeff

Thank you very much for the info.....very informative!
Are the condensors the three devices in the aluminum cases (two are round and one square)?

Thanks again
Jeff

:The circuit diagram is in the Resources section of this web site. Tubes are: 5Z4, 6K7, 6K7, 6K7, 6A8, 6J7, 6H6, 6C5, 6F5, 6L6. The audio and rectifier tubes may be glass (5Z4, 6F5, 6L6), and should be of the G style, given the year your radio was made. If shields are available within the set (they're still present), you may also use G style tubes throughout the RF sections. If shields are not present, it is better to use metal tubes in the RF section, and leave the G off the ends of those tube numbers when ordering. Still, glass looks nice, and if you wish, you may try glass tubes in the RF section, and see how the set operates.
:
:As all the tubes were removed, it is likely that something is wrong with the set. I strongly recommend replacing, or at least testing all condensers before powering up the set, and since you're a "newbe" to antique radio repair, you probably havn't heard of the method commonly used to slowly power up a set. To do so, take a board, and mount a light socket and an outlet on it. Wire them in series and attach a line cord. Plug in the radio into the outlet, and screw in a 60 watt bulb. Start with all tubes removed and check brightness of bulb with set on. Full brightness indicates short. Medium brightness also indicates some sort of short. Dim or nothing means everything's probably good. Put in the tubes, and slowly increase the wattage of the bulb. The bulb should not glow full brightness with tubes in place, if the bulb is equivilant to the wattage of the set or higher. If it glows full brightness, then you have shorts (such as electrolytics). Look for smoke and other problems as you raise the wattage of the bulb. Observe the rectifier plates. They should not glow at all.
:
:Thomas
::For tubes you could contact radiodaze.com, e-mail pmh@radiodaze.com and tell them what chassis and or model number you have and they can tell you what tubes you will need and usually they have the tubes for sale.
::
:::Hello,
:::I am a newbie to radio repair but I have a GE E-105 radio that was my grandfathers and I want to restore it. All the tubes have been removed. Does anyone know where I could buy replacement tubes? I am not even sure which tubes I need but I am trying to track down a schematic to help me with that one.
:::
:::I would appreciate any info on this.
:::
:::Thank you
:::Jeff

Condensers are any object with a microfarad rating, or MFD. It is likely that the aluminum devices are the electrolytic condensers, especially if they have the MFD rating on them. Sometimes one unit may contain several condensers inside. Electrolytics must be connected with proper polarity. The voltage rating of a new unit must match or exceed that of the old unit. It is not wise to exceed the MFD rating of the old unit, as sometimes the charge-up requirements of a larger unit can destroy the rectifier tube. Paper condensers, usually .1 MFD or less (.05, .01), do not have polarity requirements. They are the paper tube devices about 1/4 to 1/2 inch in diameter. All of the above regularily short out with age, and can cause much trouble. Another type of condenser is molded in bakelite, and has colored dots on it. This condenser often has mica as a dielectric, which rarely fails, though it can. This condenser type occasionally uses paper, which often causes trouble, and can be very misleading if one assumes that the condenser is mica. These small condensers are often rated in MMFD. The colored dots tell the rating, if no numeric rating is stamped on the case. A confusing issue arises when long, skinny units with three or four colored dots (with four, one will be off-set in the corner) are found in radio sets. These look like mica condensers, but are wire wound resistors. Best to check the circuit diagram before ruling the unit out as a shorted condenser, as it could be a resistor.

To test condensers, take your multi-meter (available at Radio Shack) and set it to the highest resistance measurement setting (the one that you can raise the needle with your bare hands by touching both leads). Place the condenser to be tested across the leads. With electrolytics it is best to have the polarity correct, that is, positive lead to the positive terminal on condenser, and negative lead to negative on condenser. Electrolytics will cause the needle to swing high and slowly fall back down to infinity. Anything above about 5 MFD should swing really high. If not, the electrolytic has dried up, and should probably be replaced. Substitute a new one and note difference in radio performance. When testing smaller condensers (.1 and lower), the needle will not swing very high at all. At ratings of .001 and less, no needle movement may be noticed. What is important with all condensers is that the needle return to exactly infinity. With electrolytics, this may take some time, and actually is not so critical. A few million ohms leakage is acceptable. With the smaller paper units, any leakage is critical. The needle must swing back to absolutely where it started, or the condenser is leaky, and bad. If testing a really small condenser, it is not likely that the needle will swing up and down, but it will still move up just a little and stay up if the condenser is bad. You must have a good eye to notice some leaks. You can also build a condenser shorts tester, which I have written up elsewhere in this month's forum.

That's it with condensers. Otherwise there is the usual testing of resistor values and checking coils and transformers for open windings, etc.

Hope this helps. Hopefully your radio will just turn on and play, and nothing will be wrong.

Thomas

:Thank you very much for the info.....very informative!
:Are the condensors the three devices in the aluminum cases (two are round and one square)?
:
:Thanks again
:Jeff
:
::The circuit diagram is in the Resources section of this web site. Tubes are: 5Z4, 6K7, 6K7, 6K7, 6A8, 6J7, 6H6, 6C5, 6F5, 6L6. The audio and rectifier tubes may be glass (5Z4, 6F5, 6L6), and should be of the G style, given the year your radio was made. If shields are available within the set (they're still present), you may also use G style tubes throughout the RF sections. If shields are not present, it is better to use metal tubes in the RF section, and leave the G off the ends of those tube numbers when ordering. Still, glass looks nice, and if you wish, you may try glass tubes in the RF section, and see how the set operates.
::
::As all the tubes were removed, it is likely that something is wrong with the set. I strongly recommend replacing, or at least testing all condensers before powering up the set, and since you're a "newbe" to antique radio repair, you probably havn't heard of the method commonly used to slowly power up a set. To do so, take a board, and mount a light socket and an outlet on it. Wire them in series and attach a line cord. Plug in the radio into the outlet, and screw in a 60 watt bulb. Start with all tubes removed and check brightness of bulb with set on. Full brightness indicates short. Medium brightness also indicates some sort of short. Dim or nothing means everything's probably good. Put in the tubes, and slowly increase the wattage of the bulb. The bulb should not glow full brightness with tubes in place, if the bulb is equivilant to the wattage of the set or higher. If it glows full brightness, then you have shorts (such as electrolytics). Look for smoke and other problems as you raise the wattage of the bulb. Observe the rectifier plates. They should not glow at all.
::
::Thomas
:::For tubes you could contact radiodaze.com, e-mail pmh@radiodaze.com and tell them what chassis and or model number you have and they can tell you what tubes you will need and usually they have the tubes for sale.
:::
::::Hello,
::::I am a newbie to radio repair but I have a GE E-105 radio that was my grandfathers and I want to restore it. All the tubes have been removed. Does anyone know where I could buy replacement tubes? I am not even sure which tubes I need but I am trying to track down a schematic to help me with that one.
::::
::::I would appreciate any info on this.
::::
::::Thank you
::::Jeff

:Condensers are any object with a microfarad rating, or MFD. It is likely that the aluminum devices are the electrolytic condensers, especially if they have the MFD rating on them. Sometimes one unit may contain several condensers inside. Electrolytics must be connected with proper polarity. The voltage rating of a new unit must match or exceed that of the old unit. It is not wise to exceed the MFD rating of the old unit, as sometimes the charge-up requirements of a larger unit can destroy the rectifier tube. Paper condensers, usually .1 MFD or less (.05, .01), do not have polarity requirements. They are the paper tube devices about 1/4 to 1/2 inch in diameter. All of the above regularily short out with age, and can cause much trouble. Another type of condenser is molded in bakelite, and has colored dots on it. This condenser often has mica as a dielectric, which rarely fails, though it can. This condenser type occasionally uses paper, which often causes trouble, and can be very misleading if one assumes that the condenser is mica. These small condensers are often rated in MMFD. The colored dots tell the rating, if no numeric rating is stamped on the case. A confusing issue arises when long, skinny units with three or four colored dots (with four, one will be off-set in the corner) are found in radio sets. These look like mica condensers, but are wire wound resistors. Best to check the circuit diagram before ruling the unit out as a shorted condenser, as it could be a resistor.
:
:To test condensers, take your multi-meter (available at Radio Shack) and set it to the highest resistance measurement setting (the one that you can raise the needle with your bare hands by touching both leads). Place the condenser to be tested across the leads. With electrolytics it is best to have the polarity correct, that is, positive lead to the positive terminal on condenser, and negative lead to negative on condenser. Electrolytics will cause the needle to swing high and slowly fall back down to infinity. Anything above about 5 MFD should swing really high. If not, the electrolytic has dried up, and should probably be replaced. Substitute a new one and note difference in radio performance. When testing smaller condensers (.1 and lower), the needle will not swing very high at all. At ratings of .001 and less, no needle movement may be noticed. What is important with all condensers is that the needle return to exactly infinity. With electrolytics, this may take some time, and actually is not so critical. A few million ohms leakage is acceptable. With the smaller paper units, any leakage is critical. The needle must swing back to absolutely where it started, or the condenser is leaky, and bad. If testing a really small condenser, it is not likely that the needle will swing up and down, but it will still move up just a little and stay up if the condenser is bad. You must have a good eye to notice some leaks. You can also build a condenser shorts tester, which I have written up elsewhere in this month's forum.
:
:That's it with condensers. Otherwise there is the usual testing of resistor values and checking coils and transformers for open windings, etc.
:
:Hope this helps. Hopefully your radio will just turn on and play, and nothing will be wrong.
:
:Thomas
:
::Thank you very much for the info.....very informative!
::Are the condensors the three devices in the aluminum cases (two are round and one square)?
::
::Thanks again
::Jeff
::
:::The circuit diagram is in the Resources section of this web site. Tubes are: 5Z4, 6K7, 6K7, 6K7, 6A8, 6J7, 6H6, 6C5, 6F5, 6L6. The audio and rectifier tubes may be glass (5Z4, 6F5, 6L6), and should be of the G style, given the year your radio was made. If shields are available within the set (they're still present), you may also use G style tubes throughout the RF sections. If shields are not present, it is better to use metal tubes in the RF section, and leave the G off the ends of those tube numbers when ordering. Still, glass looks nice, and if you wish, you may try glass tubes in the RF section, and see how the set operates.
:::
:::As all the tubes were removed, it is likely that something is wrong with the set. I strongly recommend replacing, or at least testing all condensers before powering up the set, and since you're a "newbe" to antique radio repair, you probably havn't heard of the method commonly used to slowly power up a set. To do so, take a board, and mount a light socket and an outlet on it. Wire them in series and attach a line cord. Plug in the radio into the outlet, and screw in a 60 watt bulb. Start with all tubes removed and check brightness of bulb with set on. Full brightness indicates short. Medium brightness also indicates some sort of short. Dim or nothing means everything's probably good. Put in the tubes, and slowly increase the wattage of the bulb. The bulb should not glow full brightness with tubes in place, if the bulb is equivilant to the wattage of the set or higher. If it glows full brightness, then you have shorts (such as electrolytics). Look for smoke and other problems as you raise the wattage of the bulb. Observe the rectifier plates. They should not glow at all.
:::
:::Thomas
::::For tubes you could contact radiodaze.com, e-mail pmh@radiodaze.com and tell them what chassis and or model number you have and they can tell you what tubes you will need and usually they have the tubes for sale.
::::
:::::Hello,
:::::I am a newbie to radio repair but I have a GE E-105 radio that was my grandfathers and I want to restore it. All the tubes have been removed. Does anyone know where I could buy replacement tubes? I am not even sure which tubes I need but I am trying to track down a schematic to help me with that one.
:::::
:::::I would appreciate any info on this.
:::::
:::::Thank you
:::::Jeff

Also, your radio appears to be an AM/FM radio. Do not touch any of the trimmer condenser/coil slug settings until after the radio has been brought to operating condition. The circuits of an FM radio are very sensitive, and unless you have proper equipment to align your radio, you will only make matters worse by adjusting things in the RF section.

:Also, your radio appears to be an AM/FM radio. Do not touch any of the trimmer condenser/coil slug settings until after the radio has been brought to operating condition. The circuits of an FM radio are very sensitive, and unless you have proper equipment to align your radio, you will only make matters worse by adjusting things in the RF section.

Thomas, the GE model E-105 is AM only covering the broadcast band, and 2 shortwave bands. Jeff, the chassis diagrams and underchassis wiring diagram in the Ryder's Service data on this site will show you the correct tube locations and which aluminum cylinders are condensers. There are 4 can style electrolytic condensers mounted on top of the chassis and shown in the schematics as C-18, C-20, C-46, and C-47. All four are single section caps (3 at 30 mfd, and 1 at 16 mfd). There's also a box style 3-section electrolytic under the chassis and shown on the schematic as C-53, C-55, and C-57. Study the schematics and diagrams in detail for a couple of days before diving into the repair. I helps to do some planning and mental restoration first before getting the wire cutters out. I'm working on the exact same model at this moment, and have gotten some great help and advice here.

Yeah, I just noticed that. I think I was smoking crack or something while looking at the diagram.

:Thomas, the GE model E-105 is AM only covering the broadcast band, and 2 shortwave bands. Jeff, the chassis diagrams and underchassis wiring diagram in the Ryder's Service data on this site will show you the correct tube locations and which aluminum cylinders are condensers. There are 4 can style electrolytic condensers mounted on top of the chassis and shown in the schematics as C-18, C-20, C-46, and C-47. All four are single section caps (3 at 30 mfd, and 1 at 16 mfd). There's also a box style 3-section electrolytic under the chassis and shown on the schematic as C-53, C-55, and C-57. Study the schematics and diagrams in detail for a couple of days before diving into the repair. I helps to do some planning and mental restoration first before getting the wire cutters out. I'm working on the exact same model at this moment, and have gotten some great help and advice here.

Unless you look at the circuit diagram very closely, the 6H6 looks like it's wired as a discriminator, which lead me to believe that the radio had FM. The radio also has AFC, or Automatic Frequency Control, which is usually only found on FM radios. Still, if I were to look at the diagram more closely, I'd realize that there aren't two separate sets of IF transformers necessary for AM and FM reception, and there also isn't a separate FM oscillator. Furthermore, the 6H6 is simply wired as a very elaborate AM detector. Pretty fancy AM radio. Bet when you get it running, it will surpass any ordinary AM radio. Sorry for the mistake.

Thomas

:Yeah, I just noticed that. I think I was smoking crack or something while looking at the diagram.
:
:
::Thomas, the GE model E-105 is AM only covering the broadcast band, and 2 shortwave bands. Jeff, the chassis diagrams and underchassis wiring diagram in the Ryder's Service data on this site will show you the correct tube locations and which aluminum cylinders are condensers. There are 4 can style electrolytic condensers mounted on top of the chassis and shown in the schematics as C-18, C-20, C-46, and C-47. All four are single section caps (3 at 30 mfd, and 1 at 16 mfd). There's also a box style 3-section electrolytic under the chassis and shown on the schematic as C-53, C-55, and C-57. Study the schematics and diagrams in detail for a couple of days before diving into the repair. I helps to do some planning and mental restoration first before getting the wire cutters out. I'm working on the exact same model at this moment, and have gotten some great help and advice here.

Unless you look at the circuit diagram very closely, the 6H6 looks like it's wired as a discriminator, which lead me to believe that the radio had FM. The radio also has AFC, or Automatic Frequency Control, which is usually only found on FM radios. Still, if I were to look at the diagram more closely, I'd realize that there aren't two separate sets of IF transformers necessary for AM and FM reception, and there also isn't a separate FM oscillator. Furthermore, the 6H6 is simply wired as a very elaborate AM detector. Pretty fancy AM radio. Bet when you get it running, it will surpass any ordinary AM radio. Sorry for the mistake.

Thomas

:Yeah, I just noticed that. I think I was smoking crack or something while looking at the diagram.
:
:
::Thomas, the GE model E-105 is AM only covering the broadcast band, and 2 shortwave bands. Jeff, the chassis diagrams and underchassis wiring diagram in the Ryder's Service data on this site will show you the correct tube locations and which aluminum cylinders are condensers. There are 4 can style electrolytic condensers mounted on top of the chassis and shown in the schematics as C-18, C-20, C-46, and C-47. All four are single section caps (3 at 30 mfd, and 1 at 16 mfd). There's also a box style 3-section electrolytic under the chassis and shown on the schematic as C-53, C-55, and C-57. Study the schematics and diagrams in detail for a couple of days before diving into the repair. I helps to do some planning and mental restoration first before getting the wire cutters out. I'm working on the exact same model at this moment, and have gotten some great help and advice here.

Thomas/Steve,
You guys are great...thanks for the info. I have been out of touch for awhile but I am in the process of buying the parts now.

One added twist is that I am currently living in Germany with the 220Volt issue. I have a good transformer but are there extra considerations I should watch out for due to the transformer thing?

:Unless you look at the circuit diagram very closely, the 6H6 looks like it's wired as a discriminator, which lead me to believe that the radio had FM. The radio also has AFC, or Automatic Frequency Control, which is usually only found on FM radios. Still, if I were to look at the diagram more closely, I'd realize that there aren't two separate sets of IF transformers necessary for AM and FM reception, and there also isn't a separate FM oscillator. Furthermore, the 6H6 is simply wired as a very elaborate AM detector. Pretty fancy AM radio. Bet when you get it running, it will surpass any ordinary AM radio. Sorry for the mistake.
:
:Thomas
:
::Yeah, I just noticed that. I think I was smoking crack or something while looking at the diagram.
::
::
:::Thomas, the GE model E-105 is AM only covering the broadcast band, and 2 shortwave bands. Jeff, the chassis diagrams and underchassis wiring diagram in the Ryder's Service data on this site will show you the correct tube locations and which aluminum cylinders are condensers. There are 4 can style electrolytic condensers mounted on top of the chassis and shown in the schematics as C-18, C-20, C-46, and C-47. All four are single section caps (3 at 30 mfd, and 1 at 16 mfd). There's also a box style 3-section electrolytic under the chassis and shown on the schematic as C-53, C-55, and C-57. Study the schematics and diagrams in detail for a couple of days before diving into the repair. I helps to do some planning and mental restoration first before getting the wire cutters out. I'm working on the exact same model at this moment, and have gotten some great help and advice here.

You have a transformer that converts 220 to 110, or does the transformer in the radio have a 220 volt tap? Make sure that the current available where you live has the same frequency as the radio was designed for. Some high end radios had transformers that had both 50 and 60 cycle options. Otherwise, if your radio is designed for the standard 60 cycle current in the U.S.A., and you are now receiving 50 cycle, or some other lower frequency, you could overheat the transformer. I don't think anyone anywhere uses 25 cycle current. As the frequency goes down, your hum will be more noticeable, and as the frequency goes down, current will flow through the transformer windings more readily, as coils have less of a choking affect on lower frequencies. If you have 50 cycle current available, and the radio is made for 60, try operating the set for some time and keep constant monitor of the transformer to see how hot it gets. If it gets hot, you need a converter, or perhaps a different power transformer. Also, upon initially firing up the radio, check all voltages to see that they are about the same. If you experience a hot transformer, or high voltages, you could experiment with winding various ballast chokes of small inductance to be connected in series with the transformer primary. Once a correct value is found, it can be mounted somewhere within the radio.

Many, many years ago, like when alternating current first appeared in the U.S.A., there was some reference to frequencies as high as something around 130 or 140 cycle current. I forgot the exact frequency. I doubt you will ever see anything like this to-day. If you do use your radio on a higher frequency than it was designed for (doubt you'll find any), it may have less power than normal, due to cancellations of the higher frequency within the transformer (choking action).

Thomas

:Thomas/Steve,
:You guys are great...thanks for the info. I have been out of touch for awhile but I am in the process of buying the parts now.
:
:One added twist is that I am currently living in Germany with the 220Volt issue. I have a good transformer but are there extra considerations I should watch out for due to the transformer thing?
:
::Unless you look at the circuit diagram very closely, the 6H6 looks like it's wired as a discriminator, which lead me to believe that the radio had FM. The radio also has AFC, or Automatic Frequency Control, which is usually only found on FM radios. Still, if I were to look at the diagram more closely, I'd realize that there aren't two separate sets of IF transformers necessary for AM and FM reception, and there also isn't a separate FM oscillator. Furthermore, the 6H6 is simply wired as a very elaborate AM detector. Pretty fancy AM radio. Bet when you get it running, it will surpass any ordinary AM radio. Sorry for the mistake.
::
::Thomas
::
:::Yeah, I just noticed that. I think I was smoking crack or something while looking at the diagram.
:::
:::
::::Thomas, the GE model E-105 is AM only covering the broadcast band, and 2 shortwave bands. Jeff, the chassis diagrams and underchassis wiring diagram in the Ryder's Service data on this site will show you the correct tube locations and which aluminum cylinders are condensers. There are 4 can style electrolytic condensers mounted on top of the chassis and shown in the schematics as C-18, C-20, C-46, and C-47. All four are single section caps (3 at 30 mfd, and 1 at 16 mfd). There's also a box style 3-section electrolytic under the chassis and shown on the schematic as C-53, C-55, and C-57. Study the schematics and diagrams in detail for a couple of days before diving into the repair. I helps to do some planning and mental restoration first before getting the wire cutters out. I'm working on the exact same model at this moment, and have gotten some great help and advice here.

Jeff: If you're really lucky, your model might have the universal transformer that GE also offered on this model radio with taps for 115, 125, 220 and 240 volts. If so, you're home free unless you have something other than 60 cycle as Thomas has pointed out. Check the schematics on this site for more info. Otherwise, you probably have the standard 115v transformer like mine -(apparently 2 versions made, one for 25 cycle and one for 60 cycle).
I'm in the process of ordering new electrolytic cans for mine (one was leaking - literally!), and new wire wound resistors to rebuild the bleeder resistor strip, before diving into the complete re-cap project.
Steve in Texas

:You have a transformer that converts 220 to 110, or does the transformer in the radio have a 220 volt tap? Make sure that the current available where you live has the same frequency as the radio was designed for. Some high end radios had transformers that had both 50 and 60 cycle options. Otherwise, if your radio is designed for the standard 60 cycle current in the U.S.A., and you are now receiving 50 cycle, or some other lower frequency, you could overheat the transformer. I don't think anyone anywhere uses 25 cycle current. As the frequency goes down, your hum will be more noticeable, and as the frequency goes down, current will flow through the transformer windings more readily, as coils have less of a choking affect on lower frequencies. If you have 50 cycle current available, and the radio is made for 60, try operating the set for some time and keep constant monitor of the transformer to see how hot it gets. If it gets hot, you need a converter, or perhaps a different power transformer. Also, upon initially firing up the radio, check all voltages to see that they are about the same. If you experience a hot transformer, or high voltages, you could experiment with winding various ballast chokes of small inductance to be connected in series with the transformer primary. Once a correct value is found, it can be mounted somewhere within the radio.
:
:Many, many years ago, like when alternating current first appeared in the U.S.A., there was some reference to frequencies as high as something around 130 or 140 cycle current. I forgot the exact frequency. I doubt you will ever see anything like this to-day. If you do use your radio on a higher frequency than it was designed for (doubt you'll find any), it may have less power than normal, due to cancellations of the higher frequency within the transformer (choking action).
:
:Thomas
:
::Thomas/Steve,
::You guys are great...thanks for the info. I have been out of touch for awhile but I am in the process of buying the parts now.
::
::One added twist is that I am currently living in Germany with the 220Volt issue. I have a good transformer but are there extra considerations I should watch out for due to the transformer thing?
::
:::Unless you look at the circuit diagram very closely, the 6H6 looks like it's wired as a discriminator, which lead me to believe that the radio had FM. The radio also has AFC, or Automatic Frequency Control, which is usually only found on FM radios. Still, if I were to look at the diagram more closely, I'd realize that there aren't two separate sets of IF transformers necessary for AM and FM reception, and there also isn't a separate FM oscillator. Furthermore, the 6H6 is simply wired as a very elaborate AM detector. Pretty fancy AM radio. Bet when you get it running, it will surpass any ordinary AM radio. Sorry for the mistake.
:::
:::Thomas
:::
::::Yeah, I just noticed that. I think I was smoking crack or something while looking at the diagram.
::::
::::
:::::Thomas, the GE model E-105 is AM only covering the broadcast band, and 2 shortwave bands. Jeff, the chassis diagrams and underchassis wiring diagram in the Ryder's Service data on this site will show you the correct tube locations and which aluminum cylinders are condensers. There are 4 can style electrolytic condensers mounted on top of the chassis and shown in the schematics as C-18, C-20, C-46, and C-47. All four are single section caps (3 at 30 mfd, and 1 at 16 mfd). There's also a box style 3-section electrolytic under the chassis and shown on the schematic as C-53, C-55, and C-57. Study the schematics and diagrams in detail for a couple of days before diving into the repair. I helps to do some planning and mental restoration first before getting the wire cutters out. I'm working on the exact same model at this moment, and have gotten some great help and advice here.

Hi!! I from Cordoba, Argentina (south america)
Some months ago I restored a GE E-106, the power transformer, the "saturable core reactor" transformer of the "colorama tunning system" and some resistor were burned, now is working and it´s the best radio that I have the sound and the selectivity it´s just incredible!! if you need any help please mail me!!!

Hello German: I'm still working on this one. Doing a little every day. I just totally rebuilt the bleeder resistor strip with new wire wound resistors and heat sinks (special resistor clips), and installed all new can electrolytics. I'm still replacing all the other non-mica caps, and out of spec resistors. I can't see your e-mail address on the forum, so please e-mail me directly at cougar70@earthlink.net. Thanks

:Hi!! I from Cordoba, Argentina (south america)
:Some months ago I restored a GE E-106, the power transformer, the "saturable core reactor" transformer of the "colorama tunning system" and some resistor were burned, now is working and it´s the best radio that I have the sound and the selectivity it´s just incredible!! if you need any help please mail me!!!
:

Hello German: I'm still working on this one. Doing a little every day. I just totally rebuilt the bleeder resistor strip with new wire wound resistors and heat sinks (special resistor clips), and installed all new can electrolytics. I'm still replacing all the other non-mica caps, and out of spec resistors. I can't see your e-mail address on the forum, so please e-mail me directly at cougar70@earthlink.net. Thanks

:Hi!! I from Cordoba, Argentina (south america)
:Some months ago I restored a GE E-106, the power transformer, the "saturable core reactor" transformer of the "colorama tunning system" and some resistor were burned, now is working and it´s the best radio that I have the sound and the selectivity it´s just incredible!! if you need any help please mail me!!!
: