If the 47 bulb blows as soon as you turn on your Philco the rectifier has an open section of filament.
Your radio uses a 35Z5. The filament section between pins #2 and #3 is open. You can also check continuity, with an ohm meter, between #2 and #7. It should be open.
Norm
:Well i got everything back together but i'm still having the same problem that I had when I put the radio on the bench with an inline isolated xformer. As soon as i turn on the radio at the on/off/volume switch it blows the #47 dial light bulb. I have replaced all the caps and resistors that were out of specs, i'm pretty sure i have everything back-in the same way as it was removed with your help. Any idea where i should start looking? My dad won't be back for another week and i'd like to get this finished up. Thanks, Rick.
:Rick
:
: If the 47 bulb blows as soon as you turn on your Philco the rectifier has an open section of filament.
:
: Your radio uses a 35Z5. The filament section between pins #2 and #3 is open. You can also check continuity, with an ohm meter, between #2 and #7. It should be open.
:
:Norm
:
:
::Well i got everything back together but i'm still having the same problem that I had when I put the radio on the bench with an inline isolated xformer. As soon as i turn on the radio at the on/off/volume switch it blows the #47 dial light bulb. I have replaced all the caps and resistors that were out of specs, i'm pretty sure i have everything back-in the same way as it was removed with your help. Any idea where i should start looking? My dad won't be back for another week and i'd like to get this finished up. Thanks, Rick.
Continuity on the tube itself is what counts. Checking continuity in circuit may read through the lamp or other parts.
Here is something to try if you don't have another 35Z5. Jump pins #2 and #3. If nothing is wrong the radio should work but lamp won't light.
Would be a good idea to bring your radio up with a 60 watt lamp in series with the AC line. If something is shorted the lamp will light.
Norm
:Hi Norm
:I have continuity betwin pins 2 & 7 when the tube is in the socket but when I remove the tube and recheck it there is no continuity. Also, when I remove the 35Z5 tube and check for continuity there is none on pins 2 & 7..Rock
:
::Rick
::
:: If the 47 bulb blows as soon as you turn on your Philco the rectifier has an open section of filament.
::
:: Your radio uses a 35Z5. The filament section between pins #2 and #3 is open. You can also check continuity, with an ohm meter, between #2 and #7. It should be open.
::
::Norm
::
::
:::Well i got everything back together but i'm still having the same problem that I had when I put the radio on the bench with an inline isolated xformer. As soon as i turn on the radio at the on/off/volume switch it blows the #47 dial light bulb. I have replaced all the caps and resistors that were out of specs, i'm pretty sure i have everything back-in the same way as it was removed with your help. Any idea where i should start looking? My dad won't be back for another week and i'd like to get this finished up. Thanks, Rick.
:Hi Norm
:I have continuity betwin pins 2 & 7 when the tube is in the socket but when I remove the tube and recheck it there is no continuity. Also, when I remove the 35Z5 tube and check for continuity there is none on pins 2 & 7..Rick
:
::Rick
::
:: If the 47 bulb blows as soon as you turn on your Philco the rectifier has an open section of filament.
::
:: Your radio uses a 35Z5. The filament section between pins #2 and #3 is open. You can also check continuity, with an ohm meter, between #2 and #7. It should be open.
::
::Norm
::
::
:::Well i got everything back together but i'm still having the same problem that I had when I put the radio on the bench with an inline isolated xformer. As soon as i turn on the radio at the on/off/volume switch it blows the #47 dial light bulb. I have replaced all the caps and resistors that were out of specs, i'm pretty sure i have everything back-in the same way as it was removed with your help. Any idea where i should start looking? My dad won't be back for another week and i'd like to get this finished up. Thanks, Rick.
Norm
:Norm: I also wanted to ask a question about the electrolytic 20mfd connected on pin 8 of the 35Z5. When I started the restore process this radio did not have that cap but I noticed that the other radio my friend has does have that cap..Any info on this? also see the earlier message about the 35Z5..
:
::Hi Norm
::I have continuity betwin pins 2 & 7 when the tube is in the socket but when I remove the tube and recheck it there is no continuity. Also, when I remove the 35Z5 tube and check for continuity there is none on pins 2 & 7..Rick
::
:::Rick
:::
::: If the 47 bulb blows as soon as you turn on your Philco the rectifier has an open section of filament.
:::
::: Your radio uses a 35Z5. The filament section between pins #2 and #3 is open. You can also check continuity, with an ohm meter, between #2 and #7. It should be open.
:::
:::Norm
:::
:::
::::Well i got everything back together but i'm still having the same problem that I had when I put the radio on the bench with an inline isolated xformer. As soon as i turn on the radio at the on/off/volume switch it blows the #47 dial light bulb. I have replaced all the caps and resistors that were out of specs, i'm pretty sure i have everything back-in the same way as it was removed with your help. Any idea where i should start looking? My dad won't be back for another week and i'd like to get this finished up. Thanks, Rick.
:Hi Rick
:
: That's an electrolytic filter cap. The original may have been shorted, blowing a 35Z5? You need this cap. Modern value will be 22 mfd @ 160 volts. Be sure voltage rating is 150 or greater.
:
:Norm
::Norm: I also wanted to ask a question about the electrolytic 20mfd connected on pin 8 of the 35Z5. When I started the restore process this radio did not have that cap but I noticed that the other radio my friend has does have that cap..Any info on this? also see the earlier message about the 35Z5..
::
:::Hi Norm
:::I have continuity betwin pins 2 & 7 when the tube is in the socket but when I remove the tube and recheck it there is no continuity. Also, when I remove the 35Z5 tube and check for continuity there is none on pins 2 & 7..Rick
:::
::::Rick
::::
:::: If the 47 bulb blows as soon as you turn on your Philco the rectifier has an open section of filament.
::::
:::: Your radio uses a 35Z5. The filament section between pins #2 and #3 is open. You can also check continuity, with an ohm meter, between #2 and #7. It should be open.
::::
::::Norm
::::
::::
:::::Well i got everything back together but i'm still having the same problem that I had when I put the radio on the bench with an inline isolated xformer. As soon as i turn on the radio at the on/off/volume switch it blows the #47 dial light bulb. I have replaced all the caps and resistors that were out of specs, i'm pretty sure i have everything back-in the same way as it was removed with your help. Any idea where i should start looking? My dad won't be back for another week and i'd like to get this finished up. Thanks, Rick.
You are almost there.. Is chirping there with volume turned down? Is cap C18 in place on your 50L6, pin #3?
50L6 & 35Z5 will be glass but if others are also, do they have shields? If metal, is pin #1 grounded in your radio?
If chirping is heard while you are tuning maybe the IF stage is peaked a little too sharp. Turn an IF adjustment a little to see if chirping goes away.
Norm
:Hi Norm
:Got everything done with replacing the electrolytics & other caps. Replaced two resistors that were out of spec. Powered the radio on through a inline Isolated xformer. Warm-up was normal and the radio came on with all the tubes lighted up. All the station's come in with a sharp squeel type of bird chirping. The volume has plenty of sensitivity but when you move the volume control I also get chirping sounds. I cleaned the volume control & D-Oxed-it. I wounder if I miss read a resistor somewhere or should I look at something else?
:
::Hi Rick
::
:: That's an electrolytic filter cap. The original may have been shorted, blowing a 35Z5? You need this cap. Modern value will be 22 mfd @ 160 volts. Be sure voltage rating is 150 or greater.
::
::Norm
:::Norm: I also wanted to ask a question about the electrolytic 20mfd connected on pin 8 of the 35Z5. When I started the restore process this radio did not have that cap but I noticed that the other radio my friend has does have that cap..Any info on this? also see the earlier message about the 35Z5..
:::
::::Hi Norm
::::I have continuity betwin pins 2 & 7 when the tube is in the socket but when I remove the tube and recheck it there is no continuity. Also, when I remove the 35Z5 tube and check for continuity there is none on pins 2 & 7..Rick
::::
:::::Rick
:::::
::::: If the 47 bulb blows as soon as you turn on your Philco the rectifier has an open section of filament.
:::::
::::: Your radio uses a 35Z5. The filament section between pins #2 and #3 is open. You can also check continuity, with an ohm meter, between #2 and #7. It should be open.
:::::
:::::Norm
:::::
:::::
::::::Well i got everything back together but i'm still having the same problem that I had when I put the radio on the bench with an inline isolated xformer. As soon as i turn on the radio at the on/off/volume switch it blows the #47 dial light bulb. I have replaced all the caps and resistors that were out of specs, i'm pretty sure i have everything back-in the same way as it was removed with your help. Any idea where i should start looking? My dad won't be back for another week and i'd like to get this finished up. Thanks, Rick.
:Hi Rick
:
: You are almost there.. Is chirping there with volume turned down? Is cap C18 in place on your 50L6, pin #3?
:
: 50L6 & 35Z5 will be glass but if others are also, do they have shields? If metal, is pin #1 grounded in your radio?
:
: If chirping is heard while you are tuning maybe the IF stage is peaked a little too sharp. Turn an IF adjustment a little to see if chirping goes away.
:
:Norm
:
:
:
::Hi Norm
::Got everything done with replacing the electrolytics & other caps. Replaced two resistors that were out of spec. Powered the radio on through a inline Isolated xformer. Warm-up was normal and the radio came on with all the tubes lighted up. All the station's come in with a sharp squeel type of bird chirping. The volume has plenty of sensitivity but when you move the volume control I also get chirping sounds. I cleaned the volume control & D-Oxed-it. I wounder if I miss read a resistor somewhere or should I look at something else?
::
:::Hi Rick
:::
::: That's an electrolytic filter cap. The original may have been shorted, blowing a 35Z5? You need this cap. Modern value will be 22 mfd @ 160 volts. Be sure voltage rating is 150 or greater.
:::
:::Norm
::::Norm: I also wanted to ask a question about the electrolytic 20mfd connected on pin 8 of the 35Z5. When I started the restore process this radio did not have that cap but I noticed that the other radio my friend has does have that cap..Any info on this? also see the earlier message about the 35Z5..
::::
:::::Hi Norm
:::::I have continuity betwin pins 2 & 7 when the tube is in the socket but when I remove the tube and recheck it there is no continuity. Also, when I remove the 35Z5 tube and check for continuity there is none on pins 2 & 7..Rick
:::::
::::::Rick
::::::
:::::: If the 47 bulb blows as soon as you turn on your Philco the rectifier has an open section of filament.
::::::
:::::: Your radio uses a 35Z5. The filament section between pins #2 and #3 is open. You can also check continuity, with an ohm meter, between #2 and #7. It should be open.
::::::
::::::Norm
::::::
::::::
:::::::Well i got everything back together but i'm still having the same problem that I had when I put the radio on the bench with an inline isolated xformer. As soon as i turn on the radio at the on/off/volume switch it blows the #47 dial light bulb. I have replaced all the caps and resistors that were out of specs, i'm pretty sure i have everything back-in the same way as it was removed with your help. Any idea where i should start looking? My dad won't be back for another week and i'd like to get this finished up. Thanks, Rick.
Since this is an AC/DC radio caps will connect to B- not chassis. Sometimes I use these terms interchangeably. This type of radio usually has one cap connected to chassis. Quite often it is a .05 or .1 mfd between chassis & B-.
Norm
:OK!
:Norm, the C-18 cap is connected to pin #3 on the 50L6 and the other end is connected to chassis ground. The tubes are all glass with no shields & pin #1 of the 50L6 is not grounded. Tried to adjudt the IF stage and no progress there.
:Is the C-18 cap supposed to ground to chassis or B minus? Also, Are the electrolytics supposed to go to chassis ground or to B minus on this particular radio? Rick..
:
::Hi Rick
::
:: You are almost there.. Is chirping there with volume turned down? Is cap C18 in place on your 50L6, pin #3?
::
:: 50L6 & 35Z5 will be glass but if others are also, do they have shields? If metal, is pin #1 grounded in your radio?
::
:: If chirping is heard while you are tuning maybe the IF stage is peaked a little too sharp. Turn an IF adjustment a little to see if chirping goes away.
::
::Norm
::
::
::
:::Hi Norm
:::Got everything done with replacing the electrolytics & other caps. Replaced two resistors that were out of spec. Powered the radio on through a inline Isolated xformer. Warm-up was normal and the radio came on with all the tubes lighted up. All the station's come in with a sharp squeel type of bird chirping. The volume has plenty of sensitivity but when you move the volume control I also get chirping sounds. I cleaned the volume control & D-Oxed-it. I wounder if I miss read a resistor somewhere or should I look at something else?
:::
::::Hi Rick
::::
:::: That's an electrolytic filter cap. The original may have been shorted, blowing a 35Z5? You need this cap. Modern value will be 22 mfd @ 160 volts. Be sure voltage rating is 150 or greater.
::::
::::Norm
:::::Norm: I also wanted to ask a question about the electrolytic 20mfd connected on pin 8 of the 35Z5. When I started the restore process this radio did not have that cap but I noticed that the other radio my friend has does have that cap..Any info on this? also see the earlier message about the 35Z5..
:::::
::::::Hi Norm
::::::I have continuity betwin pins 2 & 7 when the tube is in the socket but when I remove the tube and recheck it there is no continuity. Also, when I remove the 35Z5 tube and check for continuity there is none on pins 2 & 7..Rick
::::::
:::::::Rick
:::::::
::::::: If the 47 bulb blows as soon as you turn on your Philco the rectifier has an open section of filament.
:::::::
::::::: Your radio uses a 35Z5. The filament section between pins #2 and #3 is open. You can also check continuity, with an ohm meter, between #2 and #7. It should be open.
:::::::
:::::::Norm
:::::::
:::::::
::::::::Well i got everything back together but i'm still having the same problem that I had when I put the radio on the bench with an inline isolated xformer. As soon as i turn on the radio at the on/off/volume switch it blows the #47 dial light bulb. I have replaced all the caps and resistors that were out of specs, i'm pretty sure i have everything back-in the same way as it was removed with your help. Any idea where i should start looking? My dad won't be back for another week and i'd like to get this finished up. Thanks, Rick.
:Rick
:
: Since this is an AC/DC radio caps will connect to B- not chassis. Sometimes I use these terms interchangeably. This type of radio usually has one cap connected to chassis. Quite often it is a .05 or .1 mfd between chassis & B-.
:
:Norm
:
:
:
::OK!
::Norm, the C-18 cap is connected to pin #3 on the 50L6 and the other end is connected to chassis ground. The tubes are all glass with no shields & pin #1 of the 50L6 is not grounded. Tried to adjudt the IF stage and no progress there.
::Is the C-18 cap supposed to ground to chassis or B minus? Also, Are the electrolytics supposed to go to chassis ground or to B minus on this particular radio? Rick..
::
:::Hi Rick
:::
::: You are almost there.. Is chirping there with volume turned down? Is cap C18 in place on your 50L6, pin #3?
:::
::: 50L6 & 35Z5 will be glass but if others are also, do they have shields? If metal, is pin #1 grounded in your radio?
:::
::: If chirping is heard while you are tuning maybe the IF stage is peaked a little too sharp. Turn an IF adjustment a little to see if chirping goes away.
:::
:::Norm
:::
:::
:::
::::Hi Norm
::::Got everything done with replacing the electrolytics & other caps. Replaced two resistors that were out of spec. Powered the radio on through a inline Isolated xformer. Warm-up was normal and the radio came on with all the tubes lighted up. All the station's come in with a sharp squeel type of bird chirping. The volume has plenty of sensitivity but when you move the volume control I also get chirping sounds. I cleaned the volume control & D-Oxed-it. I wounder if I miss read a resistor somewhere or should I look at something else?
::::
:::::Hi Rick
:::::
::::: That's an electrolytic filter cap. The original may have been shorted, blowing a 35Z5? You need this cap. Modern value will be 22 mfd @ 160 volts. Be sure voltage rating is 150 or greater.
:::::
:::::Norm
::::::Norm: I also wanted to ask a question about the electrolytic 20mfd connected on pin 8 of the 35Z5. When I started the restore process this radio did not have that cap but I noticed that the other radio my friend has does have that cap..Any info on this? also see the earlier message about the 35Z5..
::::::
:::::::Hi Norm
:::::::I have continuity betwin pins 2 & 7 when the tube is in the socket but when I remove the tube and recheck it there is no continuity. Also, when I remove the 35Z5 tube and check for continuity there is none on pins 2 & 7..Rick
:::::::
::::::::Rick
::::::::
:::::::: If the 47 bulb blows as soon as you turn on your Philco the rectifier has an open section of filament.
::::::::
:::::::: Your radio uses a 35Z5. The filament section between pins #2 and #3 is open. You can also check continuity, with an ohm meter, between #2 and #7. It should be open.
::::::::
::::::::Norm
::::::::
::::::::
:::::::::Well i got everything back together but i'm still having the same problem that I had when I put the radio on the bench with an inline isolated xformer. As soon as i turn on the radio at the on/off/volume switch it blows the #47 dial light bulb. I have replaced all the caps and resistors that were out of specs, i'm pretty sure i have everything back-in the same way as it was removed with your help. Any idea where i should start looking? My dad won't be back for another week and i'd like to get this finished up. Thanks, Rick.
I only saw one cap between chassis and B-, C14. Didn't see a .2 mfd from pin #3 of your 50L6 to chassis.
Often I talk about ground but this isn't always chassis. In an AC/DC radio the chassis is usually isolated through a cap/resistor network.
http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel/597/M0013597.pdf
Notice the different symbols for chassis and B-. B- has the standard ground symbol. Chassis symbol looks like a push broom.
Be sure some other caps haven't been connected to chassis instead of B-.
Norm
:Hi Norm
:On the 7B7 I have a 0.2mfd cap that is connected to pin 4 and going to chassis ground, also have another 0.2mfd cap on the 50L6 pin 3 going to chassis ground. Should the 0.2 go to B minus? I still have the chirping noise all through the band and it is still present when I put cardboard with aluminum sheilds on all the tubes. I have checked for solder drippings just to make sure nothing is grounding out other componets. I also tried to re-adjust the IF with the sheilds in-place, no deference. Also, have the noise when the volume is turned down but not as bad. Stumped!! Rick..
:
::Rick
::
:: Since this is an AC/DC radio caps will connect to B- not chassis. Sometimes I use these terms interchangeably. This type of radio usually has one cap connected to chassis. Quite often it is a .05 or .1 mfd between chassis & B-.
::
::Norm
::
::
::
:::OK!
:::Norm, the C-18 cap is connected to pin #3 on the 50L6 and the other end is connected to chassis ground. The tubes are all glass with no shields & pin #1 of the 50L6 is not grounded. Tried to adjudt the IF stage and no progress there.
:::Is the C-18 cap supposed to ground to chassis or B minus? Also, Are the electrolytics supposed to go to chassis ground or to B minus on this particular radio? Rick..
:::
::::Hi Rick
::::
:::: You are almost there.. Is chirping there with volume turned down? Is cap C18 in place on your 50L6, pin #3?
::::
:::: 50L6 & 35Z5 will be glass but if others are also, do they have shields? If metal, is pin #1 grounded in your radio?
::::
:::: If chirping is heard while you are tuning maybe the IF stage is peaked a little too sharp. Turn an IF adjustment a little to see if chirping goes away.
::::
::::Norm
::::
::::
::::
:::::Hi Norm
:::::Got everything done with replacing the electrolytics & other caps. Replaced two resistors that were out of spec. Powered the radio on through a inline Isolated xformer. Warm-up was normal and the radio came on with all the tubes lighted up. All the station's come in with a sharp squeel type of bird chirping. The volume has plenty of sensitivity but when you move the volume control I also get chirping sounds. I cleaned the volume control & D-Oxed-it. I wounder if I miss read a resistor somewhere or should I look at something else?
:::::
::::::Hi Rick
::::::
:::::: That's an electrolytic filter cap. The original may have been shorted, blowing a 35Z5? You need this cap. Modern value will be 22 mfd @ 160 volts. Be sure voltage rating is 150 or greater.
::::::
::::::Norm
:::::::Norm: I also wanted to ask a question about the electrolytic 20mfd connected on pin 8 of the 35Z5. When I started the restore process this radio did not have that cap but I noticed that the other radio my friend has does have that cap..Any info on this? also see the earlier message about the 35Z5..
:::::::
::::::::Hi Norm
::::::::I have continuity betwin pins 2 & 7 when the tube is in the socket but when I remove the tube and recheck it there is no continuity. Also, when I remove the 35Z5 tube and check for continuity there is none on pins 2 & 7..Rick
::::::::
:::::::::Rick
:::::::::
::::::::: If the 47 bulb blows as soon as you turn on your Philco the rectifier has an open section of filament.
:::::::::
::::::::: Your radio uses a 35Z5. The filament section between pins #2 and #3 is open. You can also check continuity, with an ohm meter, between #2 and #7. It should be open.
:::::::::
:::::::::Norm
:::::::::
:::::::::
::::::::::Well i got everything back together but i'm still having the same problem that I had when I put the radio on the bench with an inline isolated xformer. As soon as i turn on the radio at the on/off/volume switch it blows the #47 dial light bulb. I have replaced all the caps and resistors that were out of specs, i'm pretty sure i have everything back-in the same way as it was removed with your help. Any idea where i should start looking? My dad won't be back for another week and i'd like to get this finished up. Thanks, Rick.
:Hi Rick
:
: I only saw one cap between chassis and B-, C14. Didn't see a .2 mfd from pin #3 of your 50L6 to chassis.
:
: Often I talk about ground but this isn't always chassis. In an AC/DC radio the chassis is usually isolated through a cap/resistor network.
:
:http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel/597/M0013597.pdf
:
: Notice the different symbols for chassis and B-. B- has the standard ground symbol. Chassis symbol looks like a push broom.
:
: Be sure some other caps haven't been connected to chassis instead of B-.
:
:Norm
:
::Hi Norm
::On the 7B7 I have a 0.2mfd cap that is connected to pin 4 and going to chassis ground, also have another 0.2mfd cap on the 50L6 pin 3 going to chassis ground. Should the 0.2 go to B minus? I still have the chirping noise all through the band and it is still present when I put cardboard with aluminum sheilds on all the tubes. I have checked for solder drippings just to make sure nothing is grounding out other componets. I also tried to re-adjust the IF with the sheilds in-place, no deference. Also, have the noise when the volume is turned down but not as bad. Stumped!! Rick..
::
:::Rick
:::
::: Since this is an AC/DC radio caps will connect to B- not chassis. Sometimes I use these terms interchangeably. This type of radio usually has one cap connected to chassis. Quite often it is a .05 or .1 mfd between chassis & B-.
:::
:::Norm
:::
:::
:::
::::OK!
::::Norm, the C-18 cap is connected to pin #3 on the 50L6 and the other end is connected to chassis ground. The tubes are all glass with no shields & pin #1 of the 50L6 is not grounded. Tried to adjudt the IF stage and no progress there.
::::Is the C-18 cap supposed to ground to chassis or B minus? Also, Are the electrolytics supposed to go to chassis ground or to B minus on this particular radio? Rick..
::::
:::::Hi Rick
:::::
::::: You are almost there.. Is chirping there with volume turned down? Is cap C18 in place on your 50L6, pin #3?
:::::
::::: 50L6 & 35Z5 will be glass but if others are also, do they have shields? If metal, is pin #1 grounded in your radio?
:::::
::::: If chirping is heard while you are tuning maybe the IF stage is peaked a little too sharp. Turn an IF adjustment a little to see if chirping goes away.
:::::
:::::Norm
:::::
:::::
:::::
::::::Hi Norm
::::::Got everything done with replacing the electrolytics & other caps. Replaced two resistors that were out of spec. Powered the radio on through a inline Isolated xformer. Warm-up was normal and the radio came on with all the tubes lighted up. All the station's come in with a sharp squeel type of bird chirping. The volume has plenty of sensitivity but when you move the volume control I also get chirping sounds. I cleaned the volume control & D-Oxed-it. I wounder if I miss read a resistor somewhere or should I look at something else?
::::::
:::::::Hi Rick
:::::::
::::::: That's an electrolytic filter cap. The original may have been shorted, blowing a 35Z5? You need this cap. Modern value will be 22 mfd @ 160 volts. Be sure voltage rating is 150 or greater.
:::::::
:::::::Norm
::::::::Norm: I also wanted to ask a question about the electrolytic 20mfd connected on pin 8 of the 35Z5. When I started the restore process this radio did not have that cap but I noticed that the other radio my friend has does have that cap..Any info on this? also see the earlier message about the 35Z5..
::::::::
:::::::::Hi Norm
:::::::::I have continuity betwin pins 2 & 7 when the tube is in the socket but when I remove the tube and recheck it there is no continuity. Also, when I remove the 35Z5 tube and check for continuity there is none on pins 2 & 7..Rick
:::::::::
::::::::::Rick
::::::::::
:::::::::: If the 47 bulb blows as soon as you turn on your Philco the rectifier has an open section of filament.
::::::::::
:::::::::: Your radio uses a 35Z5. The filament section between pins #2 and #3 is open. You can also check continuity, with an ohm meter, between #2 and #7. It should be open.
::::::::::
::::::::::Norm
::::::::::
::::::::::
:::::::::::Well i got everything back together but i'm still having the same problem that I had when I put the radio on the bench with an inline isolated xformer. As soon as i turn on the radio at the on/off/volume switch it blows the #47 dial light bulb. I have replaced all the caps and resistors that were out of specs, i'm pretty sure i have everything back-in the same way as it was removed with your help. Any idea where i should start looking? My dad won't be back for another week and i'd like to get this finished up. Thanks, Rick.
Maybe we should start from the beginning. Does chirping sound like an oscillation, repeating in a pattern? Is it there with volume down? If this radio uses a loop antenna coil, is it connected? Do you have long wires on the speaker? Are speaker wires going across your radio?
Norm
:Hi Norm
:OK now that I have the .2mfd removed from pin 3 of the 50L6 to chassis ground and replaced with a .02 to chassis ground. I went through and rechecked all the other caps and they are correct. I still have the chirping sound,where do I look next? Rick..
:
::Hi Rick
::
:: I only saw one cap between chassis and B-, C14. Didn't see a .2 mfd from pin #3 of your 50L6 to chassis.
::
:: Often I talk about ground but this isn't always chassis. In an AC/DC radio the chassis is usually isolated through a cap/resistor network.
::
::http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel/597/M0013597.pdf
::
:: Notice the different symbols for chassis and B-. B- has the standard ground symbol. Chassis symbol looks like a push broom.
::
:: Be sure some other caps haven't been connected to chassis instead of B-.
::
::Norm
::
:::Hi Norm
:::On the 7B7 I have a 0.2mfd cap that is connected to pin 4 and going to chassis ground, also have another 0.2mfd cap on the 50L6 pin 3 going to chassis ground. Should the 0.2 go to B minus? I still have the chirping noise all through the band and it is still present when I put cardboard with aluminum sheilds on all the tubes. I have checked for solder drippings just to make sure nothing is grounding out other componets. I also tried to re-adjust the IF with the sheilds in-place, no deference. Also, have the noise when the volume is turned down but not as bad. Stumped!! Rick..
:::
::::Rick
::::
:::: Since this is an AC/DC radio caps will connect to B- not chassis. Sometimes I use these terms interchangeably. This type of radio usually has one cap connected to chassis. Quite often it is a .05 or .1 mfd between chassis & B-.
::::
::::Norm
::::
::::
::::
:::::OK!
:::::Norm, the C-18 cap is connected to pin #3 on the 50L6 and the other end is connected to chassis ground. The tubes are all glass with no shields & pin #1 of the 50L6 is not grounded. Tried to adjudt the IF stage and no progress there.
:::::Is the C-18 cap supposed to ground to chassis or B minus? Also, Are the electrolytics supposed to go to chassis ground or to B minus on this particular radio? Rick..
:::::
::::::Hi Rick
::::::
:::::: You are almost there.. Is chirping there with volume turned down? Is cap C18 in place on your 50L6, pin #3?
::::::
:::::: 50L6 & 35Z5 will be glass but if others are also, do they have shields? If metal, is pin #1 grounded in your radio?
::::::
:::::: If chirping is heard while you are tuning maybe the IF stage is peaked a little too sharp. Turn an IF adjustment a little to see if chirping goes away.
::::::
::::::Norm
::::::
::::::
::::::
:::::::Hi Norm
:::::::Got everything done with replacing the electrolytics & other caps. Replaced two resistors that were out of spec. Powered the radio on through a inline Isolated xformer. Warm-up was normal and the radio came on with all the tubes lighted up. All the station's come in with a sharp squeel type of bird chirping. The volume has plenty of sensitivity but when you move the volume control I also get chirping sounds. I cleaned the volume control & D-Oxed-it. I wounder if I miss read a resistor somewhere or should I look at something else?
:::::::
::::::::Hi Rick
::::::::
:::::::: That's an electrolytic filter cap. The original may have been shorted, blowing a 35Z5? You need this cap. Modern value will be 22 mfd @ 160 volts. Be sure voltage rating is 150 or greater.
::::::::
::::::::Norm
:::::::::Norm: I also wanted to ask a question about the electrolytic 20mfd connected on pin 8 of the 35Z5. When I started the restore process this radio did not have that cap but I noticed that the other radio my friend has does have that cap..Any info on this? also see the earlier message about the 35Z5..
:::::::::
::::::::::Hi Norm
::::::::::I have continuity betwin pins 2 & 7 when the tube is in the socket but when I remove the tube and recheck it there is no continuity. Also, when I remove the 35Z5 tube and check for continuity there is none on pins 2 & 7..Rick
::::::::::
:::::::::::Rick
:::::::::::
::::::::::: If the 47 bulb blows as soon as you turn on your Philco the rectifier has an open section of filament.
:::::::::::
::::::::::: Your radio uses a 35Z5. The filament section between pins #2 and #3 is open. You can also check continuity, with an ohm meter, between #2 and #7. It should be open.
:::::::::::
:::::::::::Norm
:::::::::::
:::::::::::
::::::::::::Well i got everything back together but i'm still having the same problem that I had when I put the radio on the bench with an inline isolated xformer. As soon as i turn on the radio at the on/off/volume switch it blows the #47 dial light bulb. I have replaced all the caps and resistors that were out of specs, i'm pretty sure i have everything back-in the same way as it was removed with your help. Any idea where i should start looking? My dad won't be back for another week and i'd like to get this finished up. Thanks, Rick.
:Hi Rick
:
: Maybe we should start from the beginning. Does chirping sound like an oscillation, repeating in a pattern? Is it there with volume down? If this radio uses a loop antenna coil, is it connected? Do you have long wires on the speaker? Are speaker wires going across your radio?
:
:Norm
:
::Hi Norm
::OK now that I have the .2mfd removed from pin 3 of the 50L6 to chassis ground and replaced with a .02 to chassis ground. I went through and rechecked all the other caps and they are correct. I still have the chirping sound,where do I look next? Rick..
::
:::Hi Rick
:::
::: I only saw one cap between chassis and B-, C14. Didn't see a .2 mfd from pin #3 of your 50L6 to chassis.
:::
::: Often I talk about ground but this isn't always chassis. In an AC/DC radio the chassis is usually isolated through a cap/resistor network.
:::
:::http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel/597/M0013597.pdf
:::
::: Notice the different symbols for chassis and B-. B- has the standard ground symbol. Chassis symbol looks like a push broom.
:::
::: Be sure some other caps haven't been connected to chassis instead of B-.
:::
:::Norm
:::
::::Hi Norm
::::On the 7B7 I have a 0.2mfd cap that is connected to pin 4 and going to chassis ground, also have another 0.2mfd cap on the 50L6 pin 3 going to chassis ground. Should the 0.2 go to B minus? I still have the chirping noise all through the band and it is still present when I put cardboard with aluminum sheilds on all the tubes. I have checked for solder drippings just to make sure nothing is grounding out other componets. I also tried to re-adjust the IF with the sheilds in-place, no deference. Also, have the noise when the volume is turned down but not as bad. Stumped!! Rick..
::::
:::::Rick
:::::
::::: Since this is an AC/DC radio caps will connect to B- not chassis. Sometimes I use these terms interchangeably. This type of radio usually has one cap connected to chassis. Quite often it is a .05 or .1 mfd between chassis & B-.
:::::
:::::Norm
:::::
:::::
:::::
::::::OK!
::::::Norm, the C-18 cap is connected to pin #3 on the 50L6 and the other end is connected to chassis ground. The tubes are all glass with no shields & pin #1 of the 50L6 is not grounded. Tried to adjudt the IF stage and no progress there.
::::::Is the C-18 cap supposed to ground to chassis or B minus? Also, Are the electrolytics supposed to go to chassis ground or to B minus on this particular radio? Rick..
::::::
:::::::Hi Rick
:::::::
::::::: You are almost there.. Is chirping there with volume turned down? Is cap C18 in place on your 50L6, pin #3?
:::::::
::::::: 50L6 & 35Z5 will be glass but if others are also, do they have shields? If metal, is pin #1 grounded in your radio?
:::::::
::::::: If chirping is heard while you are tuning maybe the IF stage is peaked a little too sharp. Turn an IF adjustment a little to see if chirping goes away.
:::::::
:::::::Norm
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
::::::::Hi Norm
::::::::Got everything done with replacing the electrolytics & other caps. Replaced two resistors that were out of spec. Powered the radio on through a inline Isolated xformer. Warm-up was normal and the radio came on with all the tubes lighted up. All the station's come in with a sharp squeel type of bird chirping. The volume has plenty of sensitivity but when you move the volume control I also get chirping sounds. I cleaned the volume control & D-Oxed-it. I wounder if I miss read a resistor somewhere or should I look at something else?
::::::::
:::::::::Hi Rick
:::::::::
::::::::: That's an electrolytic filter cap. The original may have been shorted, blowing a 35Z5? You need this cap. Modern value will be 22 mfd @ 160 volts. Be sure voltage rating is 150 or greater.
:::::::::
:::::::::Norm
::::::::::Norm: I also wanted to ask a question about the electrolytic 20mfd connected on pin 8 of the 35Z5. When I started the restore process this radio did not have that cap but I noticed that the other radio my friend has does have that cap..Any info on this? also see the earlier message about the 35Z5..
::::::::::
:::::::::::Hi Norm
:::::::::::I have continuity betwin pins 2 & 7 when the tube is in the socket but when I remove the tube and recheck it there is no continuity. Also, when I remove the 35Z5 tube and check for continuity there is none on pins 2 & 7..Rick
:::::::::::
::::::::::::Rick
::::::::::::
:::::::::::: If the 47 bulb blows as soon as you turn on your Philco the rectifier has an open section of filament.
::::::::::::
:::::::::::: Your radio uses a 35Z5. The filament section between pins #2 and #3 is open. You can also check continuity, with an ohm meter, between #2 and #7. It should be open.
::::::::::::
::::::::::::Norm
::::::::::::
::::::::::::
:::::::::::::Well i got everything back together but i'm still having the same problem that I had when I put the radio on the bench with an inline isolated xformer. As soon as i turn on the radio at the on/off/volume switch it blows the #47 dial light bulb. I have replaced all the caps and resistors that were out of specs, i'm pretty sure i have everything back-in the same way as it was removed with your help. Any idea where i should start looking? My dad won't be back for another week and i'd like to get this finished up. Thanks, Rick.
Something in your RF or IF section of the radio is oscillating. You have done the right things with shields & replacing caps.
Is it possible a bypass cap has been left out? Might attach a .047 mfd @ 600 volt cap to a couple clip leads. Connect one end to B-. While the radio is operating attach the other end to AVC line, screens or other points in your radio. Somewhere should stop the chirping.
Norm
:Hi Norm
:The chirping does not oscillate, only get the chirping when I am moving the dial to deferent stations, when I stop at a station I have a steady squeel, no motor boating. When the volume is down the chirping is not heard. The antenna is connected, radio has a loop antenna on the inside of the case and the wires are short that go to it. The speakers wires are short and seem normal going through the chassis to the speaker coil on the speaker. I also tried to re-adjust the IF with some temporay sheilds for the glass tubes, no deference at all in chirping sound. Rick..
:
::Hi Rick
::
:: Maybe we should start from the beginning. Does chirping sound like an oscillation, repeating in a pattern? Is it there with volume down? If this radio uses a loop antenna coil, is it connected? Do you have long wires on the speaker? Are speaker wires going across your radio?
::
::Norm
::
:::Hi Norm
:::OK now that I have the .2mfd removed from pin 3 of the 50L6 to chassis ground and replaced with a .02 to chassis ground. I went through and rechecked all the other caps and they are correct. I still have the chirping sound,where do I look next? Rick..
:::
::::Hi Rick
::::
:::: I only saw one cap between chassis and B-, C14. Didn't see a .2 mfd from pin #3 of your 50L6 to chassis.
::::
:::: Often I talk about ground but this isn't always chassis. In an AC/DC radio the chassis is usually isolated through a cap/resistor network.
::::
::::http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel/597/M0013597.pdf
::::
:::: Notice the different symbols for chassis and B-. B- has the standard ground symbol. Chassis symbol looks like a push broom.
::::
:::: Be sure some other caps haven't been connected to chassis instead of B-.
::::
::::Norm
::::
:::::Hi Norm
:::::On the 7B7 I have a 0.2mfd cap that is connected to pin 4 and going to chassis ground, also have another 0.2mfd cap on the 50L6 pin 3 going to chassis ground. Should the 0.2 go to B minus? I still have the chirping noise all through the band and it is still present when I put cardboard with aluminum sheilds on all the tubes. I have checked for solder drippings just to make sure nothing is grounding out other componets. I also tried to re-adjust the IF with the sheilds in-place, no deference. Also, have the noise when the volume is turned down but not as bad. Stumped!! Rick..
:::::
::::::Rick
::::::
:::::: Since this is an AC/DC radio caps will connect to B- not chassis. Sometimes I use these terms interchangeably. This type of radio usually has one cap connected to chassis. Quite often it is a .05 or .1 mfd between chassis & B-.
::::::
::::::Norm
::::::
::::::
::::::
:::::::OK!
:::::::Norm, the C-18 cap is connected to pin #3 on the 50L6 and the other end is connected to chassis ground. The tubes are all glass with no shields & pin #1 of the 50L6 is not grounded. Tried to adjudt the IF stage and no progress there.
:::::::Is the C-18 cap supposed to ground to chassis or B minus? Also, Are the electrolytics supposed to go to chassis ground or to B minus on this particular radio? Rick..
:::::::
::::::::Hi Rick
::::::::
:::::::: You are almost there.. Is chirping there with volume turned down? Is cap C18 in place on your 50L6, pin #3?
::::::::
:::::::: 50L6 & 35Z5 will be glass but if others are also, do they have shields? If metal, is pin #1 grounded in your radio?
::::::::
:::::::: If chirping is heard while you are tuning maybe the IF stage is peaked a little too sharp. Turn an IF adjustment a little to see if chirping goes away.
::::::::
::::::::Norm
::::::::
::::::::
::::::::
:::::::::Hi Norm
:::::::::Got everything done with replacing the electrolytics & other caps. Replaced two resistors that were out of spec. Powered the radio on through a inline Isolated xformer. Warm-up was normal and the radio came on with all the tubes lighted up. All the station's come in with a sharp squeel type of bird chirping. The volume has plenty of sensitivity but when you move the volume control I also get chirping sounds. I cleaned the volume control & D-Oxed-it. I wounder if I miss read a resistor somewhere or should I look at something else?
:::::::::
::::::::::Hi Rick
::::::::::
:::::::::: That's an electrolytic filter cap. The original may have been shorted, blowing a 35Z5? You need this cap. Modern value will be 22 mfd @ 160 volts. Be sure voltage rating is 150 or greater.
::::::::::
::::::::::Norm
:::::::::::Norm: I also wanted to ask a question about the electrolytic 20mfd connected on pin 8 of the 35Z5. When I started the restore process this radio did not have that cap but I noticed that the other radio my friend has does have that cap..Any info on this? also see the earlier message about the 35Z5..
:::::::::::
::::::::::::Hi Norm
::::::::::::I have continuity betwin pins 2 & 7 when the tube is in the socket but when I remove the tube and recheck it there is no continuity. Also, when I remove the 35Z5 tube and check for continuity there is none on pins 2 & 7..Rick
::::::::::::
:::::::::::::Rick
:::::::::::::
::::::::::::: If the 47 bulb blows as soon as you turn on your Philco the rectifier has an open section of filament.
:::::::::::::
::::::::::::: Your radio uses a 35Z5. The filament section between pins #2 and #3 is open. You can also check continuity, with an ohm meter, between #2 and #7. It should be open.
:::::::::::::
:::::::::::::Norm
:::::::::::::
:::::::::::::
::::::::::::::Well i got everything back together but i'm still having the same problem that I had when I put the radio on the bench with an inline isolated xformer. As soon as i turn on the radio at the on/off/volume switch it blows the #47 dial light bulb. I have replaced all the caps and resistors that were out of specs, i'm pretty sure i have everything back-in the same way as it was removed with your help. Any idea where i should start looking? My dad won't be back for another week and i'd like to get this finished up. Thanks, Rick.
:Hi Rick
:
: Something in your RF or IF section of the radio is oscillating. You have done the right things with shields & replacing caps.
:
: Is it possible a bypass cap has been left out? Might attach a .047 mfd @ 600 volt cap to a couple clip leads. Connect one end to B-. While the radio is operating attach the other end to AVC line, screens or other points in your radio. Somewhere should stop the chirping.
:
:Norm
:
:
:
:
:
::Hi Norm
::The chirping does not oscillate, only get the chirping when I am moving the dial to deferent stations, when I stop at a station I have a steady squeel, no motor boating. When the volume is down the chirping is not heard. The antenna is connected, radio has a loop antenna on the inside of the case and the wires are short that go to it. The speakers wires are short and seem normal going through the chassis to the speaker coil on the speaker. I also tried to re-adjust the IF with some temporay sheilds for the glass tubes, no deference at all in chirping sound. Rick..
::
:::Hi Rick
:::
::: Maybe we should start from the beginning. Does chirping sound like an oscillation, repeating in a pattern? Is it there with volume down? If this radio uses a loop antenna coil, is it connected? Do you have long wires on the speaker? Are speaker wires going across your radio?
:::
:::Norm
:::
::::Hi Norm
::::OK now that I have the .2mfd removed from pin 3 of the 50L6 to chassis ground and replaced with a .02 to chassis ground. I went through and rechecked all the other caps and they are correct. I still have the chirping sound,where do I look next? Rick..
::::
:::::Hi Rick
:::::
::::: I only saw one cap between chassis and B-, C14. Didn't see a .2 mfd from pin #3 of your 50L6 to chassis.
:::::
::::: Often I talk about ground but this isn't always chassis. In an AC/DC radio the chassis is usually isolated through a cap/resistor network.
:::::
:::::http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel/597/M0013597.pdf
:::::
::::: Notice the different symbols for chassis and B-. B- has the standard ground symbol. Chassis symbol looks like a push broom.
:::::
::::: Be sure some other caps haven't been connected to chassis instead of B-.
:::::
:::::Norm
:::::
::::::Hi Norm
::::::On the 7B7 I have a 0.2mfd cap that is connected to pin 4 and going to chassis ground, also have another 0.2mfd cap on the 50L6 pin 3 going to chassis ground. Should the 0.2 go to B minus? I still have the chirping noise all through the band and it is still present when I put cardboard with aluminum sheilds on all the tubes. I have checked for solder drippings just to make sure nothing is grounding out other componets. I also tried to re-adjust the IF with the sheilds in-place, no deference. Also, have the noise when the volume is turned down but not as bad. Stumped!! Rick..
::::::
:::::::Rick
:::::::
::::::: Since this is an AC/DC radio caps will connect to B- not chassis. Sometimes I use these terms interchangeably. This type of radio usually has one cap connected to chassis. Quite often it is a .05 or .1 mfd between chassis & B-.
:::::::
:::::::Norm
:::::::
:::::::
:::::::
::::::::OK!
::::::::Norm, the C-18 cap is connected to pin #3 on the 50L6 and the other end is connected to chassis ground. The tubes are all glass with no shields & pin #1 of the 50L6 is not grounded. Tried to adjudt the IF stage and no progress there.
::::::::Is the C-18 cap supposed to ground to chassis or B minus? Also, Are the electrolytics supposed to go to chassis ground or to B minus on this particular radio? Rick..
::::::::
:::::::::Hi Rick
:::::::::
::::::::: You are almost there.. Is chirping there with volume turned down? Is cap C18 in place on your 50L6, pin #3?
:::::::::
::::::::: 50L6 & 35Z5 will be glass but if others are also, do they have shields? If metal, is pin #1 grounded in your radio?
:::::::::
::::::::: If chirping is heard while you are tuning maybe the IF stage is peaked a little too sharp. Turn an IF adjustment a little to see if chirping goes away.
:::::::::
:::::::::Norm
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::
::::::::::Hi Norm
::::::::::Got everything done with replacing the electrolytics & other caps. Replaced two resistors that were out of spec. Powered the radio on through a inline Isolated xformer. Warm-up was normal and the radio came on with all the tubes lighted up. All the station's come in with a sharp squeel type of bird chirping. The volume has plenty of sensitivity but when you move the volume control I also get chirping sounds. I cleaned the volume control & D-Oxed-it. I wounder if I miss read a resistor somewhere or should I look at something else?
::::::::::
:::::::::::Hi Rick
:::::::::::
::::::::::: That's an electrolytic filter cap. The original may have been shorted, blowing a 35Z5? You need this cap. Modern value will be 22 mfd @ 160 volts. Be sure voltage rating is 150 or greater.
:::::::::::
:::::::::::Norm
::::::::::::Norm: I also wanted to ask a question about the electrolytic 20mfd connected on pin 8 of the 35Z5. When I started the restore process this radio did not have that cap but I noticed that the other radio my friend has does have that cap..Any info on this? also see the earlier message about the 35Z5..
::::::::::::
:::::::::::::Hi Norm
:::::::::::::I have continuity betwin pins 2 & 7 when the tube is in the socket but when I remove the tube and recheck it there is no continuity. Also, when I remove the 35Z5 tube and check for continuity there is none on pins 2 & 7..Rick
:::::::::::::
::::::::::::::Rick
::::::::::::::
:::::::::::::: If the 47 bulb blows as soon as you turn on your Philco the rectifier has an open section of filament.
::::::::::::::
:::::::::::::: Your radio uses a 35Z5. The filament section between pins #2 and #3 is open. You can also check continuity, with an ohm meter, between #2 and #7. It should be open.
::::::::::::::
::::::::::::::Norm
::::::::::::::
::::::::::::::
:::::::::::::::Well i got everything back together but i'm still having the same problem that I had when I put the radio on the bench with an inline isolated xformer. As soon as i turn on the radio at the on/off/volume switch it blows the #47 dial light bulb. I have replaced all the caps and resistors that were out of specs, i'm pretty sure i have everything back-in the same way as it was removed with your help. Any idea where i should start looking? My dad won't be back for another week and i'd like to get this finished up. Thanks, Rick.
These smaller caps don't have a polarity. Just use a standard .047 mfd @ 600 volts. If lucky this will show where a cap is missing or bad.
Norm
::Hi Norm
::Should I use a electrolytic cap or use a non polorized cap & does it make any deference where I connect to the B- ? Rick....
::
:::Hi Rick
:::
::: Something in your RF or IF section of the radio is oscillating. You have done the right things with shields & replacing caps.
:::
::: Is it possible a bypass cap has been left out? Might attach a .047 mfd @ 600 volt cap to a couple clip leads. Connect one end to B-. While the radio is operating attach the other end to AVC line, screens or other points in your radio. Somewhere should stop the chirping.
:::
:::Norm
:::
:::
:::
:::
:::
::::Hi Norm
::::The chirping does not oscillate, only get the chirping when I am moving the dial to deferent stations, when I stop at a station I have a steady squeel, no motor boating. When the volume is down the chirping is not heard. The antenna is connected, radio has a loop antenna on the inside of the case and the wires are short that go to it. The speakers wires are short and seem normal going through the chassis to the speaker coil on the speaker. I also tried to re-adjust the IF with some temporay sheilds for the glass tubes, no deference at all in chirping sound. Rick..
::::
:::::Hi Rick
:::::
::::: Maybe we should start from the beginning. Does chirping sound like an oscillation, repeating in a pattern? Is it there with volume down? If this radio uses a loop antenna coil, is it connected? Do you have long wires on the speaker? Are speaker wires going across your radio?
:::::
:::::Norm
:::::
::::::Hi Norm
::::::OK now that I have the .2mfd removed from pin 3 of the 50L6 to chassis ground and replaced with a .02 to chassis ground. I went through and rechecked all the other caps and they are correct. I still have the chirping sound,where do I look next? Rick..
::::::
:::::::Hi Rick
:::::::
::::::: I only saw one cap between chassis and B-, C14. Didn't see a .2 mfd from pin #3 of your 50L6 to chassis.
:::::::
::::::: Often I talk about ground but this isn't always chassis. In an AC/DC radio the chassis is usually isolated through a cap/resistor network.
:::::::
:::::::http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel/597/M0013597.pdf
:::::::
::::::: Notice the different symbols for chassis and B-. B- has the standard ground symbol. Chassis symbol looks like a push broom.
:::::::
::::::: Be sure some other caps haven't been connected to chassis instead of B-.
:::::::
:::::::Norm
:::::::
::::::::Hi Norm
::::::::On the 7B7 I have a 0.2mfd cap that is connected to pin 4 and going to chassis ground, also have another 0.2mfd cap on the 50L6 pin 3 going to chassis ground. Should the 0.2 go to B minus? I still have the chirping noise all through the band and it is still present when I put cardboard with aluminum sheilds on all the tubes. I have checked for solder drippings just to make sure nothing is grounding out other componets. I also tried to re-adjust the IF with the sheilds in-place, no deference. Also, have the noise when the volume is turned down but not as bad. Stumped!! Rick..
::::::::
:::::::::Rick
:::::::::
::::::::: Since this is an AC/DC radio caps will connect to B- not chassis. Sometimes I use these terms interchangeably. This type of radio usually has one cap connected to chassis. Quite often it is a .05 or .1 mfd between chassis & B-.
:::::::::
:::::::::Norm
:::::::::
:::::::::
:::::::::
::::::::::OK!
::::::::::Norm, the C-18 cap is connected to pin #3 on the 50L6 and the other end is connected to chassis ground. The tubes are all glass with no shields & pin #1 of the 50L6 is not grounded. Tried to adjudt the IF stage and no progress there.
::::::::::Is the C-18 cap supposed to ground to chassis or B minus? Also, Are the electrolytics supposed to go to chassis ground or to B minus on this particular radio? Rick..
::::::::::
:::::::::::Hi Rick
:::::::::::
::::::::::: You are almost there.. Is chirping there with volume turned down? Is cap C18 in place on your 50L6, pin #3?
:::::::::::
::::::::::: 50L6 & 35Z5 will be glass but if others are also, do they have shields? If metal, is pin #1 grounded in your radio?
:::::::::::
::::::::::: If chirping is heard while you are tuning maybe the IF stage is peaked a little too sharp. Turn an IF adjustment a little to see if chirping goes away.
:::::::::::
:::::::::::Norm
:::::::::::
:::::::::::
:::::::::::
::::::::::::Hi Norm
::::::::::::Got everything done with replacing the electrolytics & other caps. Replaced two resistors that were out of spec. Powered the radio on through a inline Isolated xformer. Warm-up was normal and the radio came on with all the tubes lighted up. All the station's come in with a sharp squeel type of bird chirping. The volume has plenty of sensitivity but when you move the volume control I also get chirping sounds. I cleaned the volume control & D-Oxed-it. I wounder if I miss read a resistor somewhere or should I look at something else?
::::::::::::
:::::::::::::Hi Rick
:::::::::::::
::::::::::::: That's an electrolytic filter cap. The original may have been shorted, blowing a 35Z5? You need this cap. Modern value will be 22 mfd @ 160 volts. Be sure voltage rating is 150 or greater.
:::::::::::::
:::::::::::::Norm
::::::::::::::Norm: I also wanted to ask a question about the electrolytic 20mfd connected on pin 8 of the 35Z5. When I started the restore process this radio did not have that cap but I noticed that the other radio my friend has does have that cap..Any info on this? also see the earlier message about the 35Z5..
::::::::::::::
:::::::::::::::Hi Norm
:::::::::::::::I have continuity betwin pins 2 & 7 when the tube is in the socket but when I remove the tube and recheck it there is no continuity. Also, when I remove the 35Z5 tube and check for continuity there is none on pins 2 & 7..Rick
:::::::::::::::
::::::::::::::::Rick
::::::::::::::::
:::::::::::::::: If the 47 bulb blows as soon as you turn on your Philco the rectifier has an open section of filament.
::::::::::::::::
:::::::::::::::: Your radio uses a 35Z5. The filament section between pins #2 and #3 is open. You can also check continuity, with an ohm meter, between #2 and #7. It should be open.
::::::::::::::::
::::::::::::::::Norm
::::::::::::::::
::::::::::::::::
:::::::::::::::::Well i got everything back together but i'm still having the same problem that I had when I put the radio on the bench with an inline isolated xformer. As soon as i turn on the radio at the on/off/volume switch it blows the #47 dial light bulb. I have replaced all the caps and resistors that were out of specs, i'm pretty sure i have everything back-in the same way as it was removed with your help. Any idea where i should start looking? My dad won't be back for another week and i'd like to get this finished up. Thanks, Rick.