My name is Shane. I am certainly not a radio or electronics repair man, but yet in my spare time I like to mess with old radios, especially those that were more of a part of rural life before commercial power was introduced. In the past I got lucky and simply replaced the tubes in a 1937 Delco 32 volt and got it to work.
Now I have a battery powered set made by Radio Products Corp that I can't find a schematic for. All I have for numbers is a S/N A308871. It is a 4 tube radio. The radio is working.
I also have a Zenith AM/FM that does not work and is shocking me. I would like to find a schematic for it. All I have is a chassis #7G01. Could it be that since the set is shocking me that I should start replacing capacitors?

Hi Shane,
Let's take the Zenith first: Chassis 7G01 was used in model G725. You can find the schematic and service data here on NostalgiaAir. From the "Resources" section click on "Zenith", then from the list choose your model "G725". The reason it is shocking you is due to the design of the radio. This is an AC/DC set with a "hot chassis". Depending upon the position of the line cord plug in the receptacle, there is a 50/50 chance the chassis will be hot regardless whether the power switch is ON or OFF. The use of an isolation transformer is highly recommended when servicing a radio like this one. If one is not available, proceed with extreme caution and avoid all contact with the metal chassis when the radio is plugged in. There can be many reasons why it is not working, give us a little more info and we can help you track down the problem. To begin with, are the tubes lighting up?

Regarding your Radio Products Corp. set, the number you mention is most likely a serial number, not a model number. If you can post the tube numbers we can probably help you determine the model number and find the schematic.

Poston

: My name is Shane. I am certainly not a radio or electronics repair man, but yet in my spare time I like to mess with old radios, especially those that were more of a part of rural life before commercial power was introduced. In the past I got lucky and simply replaced the tubes in a 1937 Delco 32 volt and got it to work.
: Now I have a battery powered set made by Radio Products Corp that I can't find a schematic for. All I have for numbers is a S/N A308871. It is a 4 tube radio. The radio is working.
: I also have a Zenith AM/FM that does not work and is shocking me. I would like to find a schematic for it. All I have is a chassis #7G01. Could it be that since the set is shocking me that I should start replacing capacitors?

Hi Poston
Thank you for your response. You must be pretty "in tune" when it comes to old radio sets?
The Zenith G725 does not have any of the tubes glowing. I suppose I can order some tubes. What do you think? Thank you for telling me about the hot chassis. I will be careful. When the electical plug is in the socket one way I do not get a shock until the set is turned on. When I reverse the plug in the wall socket the set will shock when the set is off, and then when the set is turned on the set is no longer hot.
The RPC set seems to work pretty well according to my book.(Wich does not necessarily mean much.)I can tell by the way this set works that it is not a superhetrodyne. At times I can get a strong radio station frequency that can bleed in through the full range of the tuning cap. Not always though. The tubes that are in the RPC set are as follows 1A7G, 1N5G, 1H5G, and 1Q5G.
Thank you again and have a great day.
Shane
:Hi Shane,
:Let's take the Zenith first: Chassis 7G01 was used in model G725. You can find the schematic and service data here on NostalgiaAir. From the "Resources" section click on "Zenith", then from the list choose your model "G725". The reason it is shocking you is due to the design of the radio. This is an AC/DC set with a "hot chassis". Depending upon the position of the line cord plug in the receptacle, there is a 50/50 chance the chassis will be hot regardless whether the power switch is ON or OFF. The use of an isolation transformer is highly recommended when servicing a radio like this one. If one is not available, proceed with extreme caution and avoid all contact with the metal chassis when the radio is plugged in. There can be many reasons why it is not working, give us a little more info and we can help you track down the problem. To begin with, are the tubes lighting up?
:
:Regarding your Radio Products Corp. set, the number you mention is most likely a serial number, not a model number. If you can post the tube numbers we can probably help you determine the model number and find the schematic.
:
:Poston
:
:
:: My name is Shane. I am certainly not a radio or electronics repair man, but yet in my spare time I like to mess with old radios, especially those that were more of a part of rural life before commercial power was introduced. In the past I got lucky and simply replaced the tubes in a 1937 Delco 32 volt and got it to work.
:: Now I have a battery powered set made by Radio Products Corp that I can't find a schematic for. All I have for numbers is a S/N A308871. It is a 4 tube radio. The radio is working.
:: I also have a Zenith AM/FM that does not work and is shocking me. I would like to find a schematic for it. All I have is a chassis #7G01. Could it be that since the set is shocking me that I should start replacing capacitors?

Shane,
Your description of how/when you get shocked is exactly what would be expected in a "hot chassis" AC/DC radio such as your Zenith G725. The tube filaments in an AC/DC radio like this one are wired in series, therefore if one is burned out none will light. Most likely only one tube is bad. If you don't have access to a tube tester, you can check their filaments with an ohmmeter. The filaments of the 7-pin tubes (12BA6, 12AU6, and 35B5) are between pins 3 and 4. For the 9-pin tubes (12AT7 and 19T8) they are between pins 4 and 5. Here is a website where you can look up base diagrams of the tubes to help you identify the pin numbers: http://hereford.ampr.org/cgi-bin/tube

I looked at a few of the Radio Products Corp. schematics here on NostalgiaAir. Model 4A (Rider page 9-1) looks like it may be yours. Tube lineup is 1A7, 1N5, 1H5, and 1C5. (Note: 1Q5 is an appropriate substitute for a 1C5.) If this schematic does not match, you might look through the other Radio Products Corp. model listings and most likely you will find yours.

Poston

:Hi Poston
: Thank you for your response. You must be pretty "in tune" when it comes to old radio sets?
: The Zenith G725 does not have any of the tubes glowing. I suppose I can order some tubes. What do you think? Thank you for telling me about the hot chassis. I will be careful. When the electical plug is in the socket one way I do not get a shock until the set is turned on. When I reverse the plug in the wall socket the set will shock when the set is off, and then when the set is turned on the set is no longer hot.
: The RPC set seems to work pretty well according to my book.(Wich does not necessarily mean much.)I can tell by the way this set works that it is not a superhetrodyne. At times I can get a strong radio station frequency that can bleed in through the full range of the tuning cap. Not always though. The tubes that are in the RPC set are as follows 1A7G, 1N5G, 1H5G, and 1Q5G.
: Thank you again and have a great day.
:Shane
::Hi Shane,
::Let's take the Zenith first: Chassis 7G01 was used in model G725. You can find the schematic and service data here on NostalgiaAir. From the "Resources" section click on "Zenith", then from the list choose your model "G725". The reason it is shocking you is due to the design of the radio. This is an AC/DC set with a "hot chassis". Depending upon the position of the line cord plug in the receptacle, there is a 50/50 chance the chassis will be hot regardless whether the power switch is ON or OFF. The use of an isolation transformer is highly recommended when servicing a radio like this one. If one is not available, proceed with extreme caution and avoid all contact with the metal chassis when the radio is plugged in. There can be many reasons why it is not working, give us a little more info and we can help you track down the problem. To begin with, are the tubes lighting up?
::
::Regarding your Radio Products Corp. set, the number you mention is most likely a serial number, not a model number. If you can post the tube numbers we can probably help you determine the model number and find the schematic.
::
::Poston
::
::
::: My name is Shane. I am certainly not a radio or electronics repair man, but yet in my spare time I like to mess with old radios, especially those that were more of a part of rural life before commercial power was introduced. In the past I got lucky and simply replaced the tubes in a 1937 Delco 32 volt and got it to work.
::: Now I have a battery powered set made by Radio Products Corp that I can't find a schematic for. All I have for numbers is a S/N A308871. It is a 4 tube radio. The radio is working.
::: I also have a Zenith AM/FM that does not work and is shocking me. I would like to find a schematic for it. All I have is a chassis #7G01. Could it be that since the set is shocking me that I should start replacing capacitors?

Shane,
A note of clarification regarding my last message: For some reason, Radio Products Corp. model 4A is not listed in the NostalgiaAir index. It is on Rider page 9-1 as I mentioned. To find this page, click on models "5E" or "55".

Poston

:Shane,
:Your description of how/when you get shocked is exactly what would be expected in a "hot chassis" AC/DC radio such as your Zenith G725. The tube filaments in an AC/DC radio like this one are wired in series, therefore if one is burned out none will light. Most likely only one tube is bad. If you don't have access to a tube tester, you can check their filaments with an ohmmeter. The filaments of the 7-pin tubes (12BA6, 12AU6, and 35B5) are between pins 3 and 4. For the 9-pin tubes (12AT7 and 19T8) they are between pins 4 and 5. Here is a website where you can look up base diagrams of the tubes to help you identify the pin numbers: http://hereford.ampr.org/cgi-bin/tube
:
:I looked at a few of the Radio Products Corp. schematics here on NostalgiaAir. Model 4A (Rider page 9-1) looks like it may be yours. Tube lineup is 1A7, 1N5, 1H5, and 1C5. (Note: 1Q5 is an appropriate substitute for a 1C5.) If this schematic does not match, you might look through the other Radio Products Corp. model listings and most likely you will find yours.
:
:Poston
:
:
::Hi Poston
:: Thank you for your response. You must be pretty "in tune" when it comes to old radio sets?
:: The Zenith G725 does not have any of the tubes glowing. I suppose I can order some tubes. What do you think? Thank you for telling me about the hot chassis. I will be careful. When the electical plug is in the socket one way I do not get a shock until the set is turned on. When I reverse the plug in the wall socket the set will shock when the set is off, and then when the set is turned on the set is no longer hot.
:: The RPC set seems to work pretty well according to my book.(Wich does not necessarily mean much.)I can tell by the way this set works that it is not a superhetrodyne. At times I can get a strong radio station frequency that can bleed in through the full range of the tuning cap. Not always though. The tubes that are in the RPC set are as follows 1A7G, 1N5G, 1H5G, and 1Q5G.
:: Thank you again and have a great day.
::Shane
:::Hi Shane,
:::Let's take the Zenith first: Chassis 7G01 was used in model G725. You can find the schematic and service data here on NostalgiaAir. From the "Resources" section click on "Zenith", then from the list choose your model "G725". The reason it is shocking you is due to the design of the radio. This is an AC/DC set with a "hot chassis". Depending upon the position of the line cord plug in the receptacle, there is a 50/50 chance the chassis will be hot regardless whether the power switch is ON or OFF. The use of an isolation transformer is highly recommended when servicing a radio like this one. If one is not available, proceed with extreme caution and avoid all contact with the metal chassis when the radio is plugged in. There can be many reasons why it is not working, give us a little more info and we can help you track down the problem. To begin with, are the tubes lighting up?
:::
:::Regarding your Radio Products Corp. set, the number you mention is most likely a serial number, not a model number. If you can post the tube numbers we can probably help you determine the model number and find the schematic.
:::
:::Poston
:::
:::
:::: My name is Shane. I am certainly not a radio or electronics repair man, but yet in my spare time I like to mess with old radios, especially those that were more of a part of rural life before commercial power was introduced. In the past I got lucky and simply replaced the tubes in a 1937 Delco 32 volt and got it to work.
:::: Now I have a battery powered set made by Radio Products Corp that I can't find a schematic for. All I have for numbers is a S/N A308871. It is a 4 tube radio. The radio is working.
:::: I also have a Zenith AM/FM that does not work and is shocking me. I would like to find a schematic for it. All I have is a chassis #7G01. Could it be that since the set is shocking me that I should start replacing capacitors?

Poston,
Just a quick note of thanks to you for your help. The Zenith set that we spoke of is now working great. I replaced 1 tube and bingo. It is exciting because this set is one that my mom listened to as a girl. I showed it to her in its working condition. The only thing that it needs is an indicator needle. Do you have any idea where I can find this part?
As I said before the RPC set works but needs some tuning I believe. It turns out that the set is a superhetrodyne model 55. When I get back on track with the RPC I'll let you know.
I also have a RCA set that works but I do not know the model number at this time. An older man gave me a Zenith Trans-Oceantic that is a little rough on the outside but it works. I dont't know if I need all these radio sets, but they are kind of fun to learn about. Thanks again.

Shane
:Shane,
:A note of clarification regarding my last message: For some reason, Radio Products Corp. model 4A is not listed in the NostalgiaAir index. It is on Rider page 9-1 as I mentioned. To find this page, click on models "5E" or "55".
:
:Poston
:
:
::Shane,
::Your description of how/when you get shocked is exactly what would be expected in a "hot chassis" AC/DC radio such as your Zenith G725. The tube filaments in an AC/DC radio like this one are wired in series, therefore if one is burned out none will light. Most likely only one tube is bad. If you don't have access to a tube tester, you can check their filaments with an ohmmeter. The filaments of the 7-pin tubes (12BA6, 12AU6, and 35B5) are between pins 3 and 4. For the 9-pin tubes (12AT7 and 19T8) they are between pins 4 and 5. Here is a website where you can look up base diagrams of the tubes to help you identify the pin numbers: http://hereford.ampr.org/cgi-bin/tube
::
::I looked at a few of the Radio Products Corp. schematics here on NostalgiaAir. Model 4A (Rider page 9-1) looks like it may be yours. Tube lineup is 1A7, 1N5, 1H5, and 1C5. (Note: 1Q5 is an appropriate substitute for a 1C5.) If this schematic does not match, you might look through the other Radio Products Corp. model listings and most likely you will find yours.
::
::Poston
::
::
:::Hi Poston
::: Thank you for your response. You must be pretty "in tune" when it comes to old radio sets?
::: The Zenith G725 does not have any of the tubes glowing. I suppose I can order some tubes. What do you think? Thank you for telling me about the hot chassis. I will be careful. When the electical plug is in the socket one way I do not get a shock until the set is turned on. When I reverse the plug in the wall socket the set will shock when the set is off, and then when the set is turned on the set is no longer hot.
::: The RPC set seems to work pretty well according to my book.(Wich does not necessarily mean much.)I can tell by the way this set works that it is not a superhetrodyne. At times I can get a strong radio station frequency that can bleed in through the full range of the tuning cap. Not always though. The tubes that are in the RPC set are as follows 1A7G, 1N5G, 1H5G, and 1Q5G.
::: Thank you again and have a great day.
:::Shane
::::Hi Shane,
::::Let's take the Zenith first: Chassis 7G01 was used in model G725. You can find the schematic and service data here on NostalgiaAir. From the "Resources" section click on "Zenith", then from the list choose your model "G725". The reason it is shocking you is due to the design of the radio. This is an AC/DC set with a "hot chassis". Depending upon the position of the line cord plug in the receptacle, there is a 50/50 chance the chassis will be hot regardless whether the power switch is ON or OFF. The use of an isolation transformer is highly recommended when servicing a radio like this one. If one is not available, proceed with extreme caution and avoid all contact with the metal chassis when the radio is plugged in. There can be many reasons why it is not working, give us a little more info and we can help you track down the problem. To begin with, are the tubes lighting up?
::::
::::Regarding your Radio Products Corp. set, the number you mention is most likely a serial number, not a model number. If you can post the tube numbers we can probably help you determine the model number and find the schematic.
::::
::::Poston
::::
::::
::::: My name is Shane. I am certainly not a radio or electronics repair man, but yet in my spare time I like to mess with old radios, especially those that were more of a part of rural life before commercial power was introduced. In the past I got lucky and simply replaced the tubes in a 1937 Delco 32 volt and got it to work.
::::: Now I have a battery powered set made by Radio Products Corp that I can't find a schematic for. All I have for numbers is a S/N A308871. It is a 4 tube radio. The radio is working.
::::: I also have a Zenith AM/FM that does not work and is shocking me. I would like to find a schematic for it. All I have is a chassis #7G01. Could it be that since the set is shocking me that I should start replacing capacitors?

:Poston,
: Just a quick note of thanks to you for your help. The Zenith set that we spoke of is now working great. I replaced 1 tube and bingo. It is exciting because this set is one that my mom listened to as a girl. I showed it to her in its working condition. The only thing that it needs is an indicator needle. Do you have any idea where I can find this part?
: As I said before the RPC set works but needs some tuning I believe. It turns out that the set is a superhetrodyne model 55. When I get back on track with the RPC I'll let you know.
: I also have a RCA set that works but I do not know the model number at this time. An older man gave me a Zenith Trans-Oceantic that is a little rough on the outside but it works. I dont't know if I need all these radio sets, but they are kind of fun to learn about. Thanks again.
:
:Shane
::Shane,
::A note of clarification regarding my last message: For some reason, Radio Products Corp. model 4A is not listed in the NostalgiaAir index. It is on Rider page 9-1 as I mentioned. To find this page, click on models "5E" or "55".
::
::Poston
::
::
:::Shane,
:::Your description of how/when you get shocked is exactly what would be expected in a "hot chassis" AC/DC radio such as your Zenith G725. The tube filaments in an AC/DC radio like this one are wired in series, therefore if one is burned out none will light. Most likely only one tube is bad. If you don't have access to a tube tester, you can check their filaments with an ohmmeter. The filaments of the 7-pin tubes (12BA6, 12AU6, and 35B5) are between pins 3 and 4. For the 9-pin tubes (12AT7 and 19T8) they are between pins 4 and 5. Here is a website where you can look up base diagrams of the tubes to help you identify the pin numbers: http://hereford.ampr.org/cgi-bin/tube
:::
:::I looked at a few of the Radio Products Corp. schematics here on NostalgiaAir. Model 4A (Rider page 9-1) looks like it may be yours. Tube lineup is 1A7, 1N5, 1H5, and 1C5. (Note: 1Q5 is an appropriate substitute for a 1C5.) If this schematic does not match, you might look through the other Radio Products Corp. model listings and most likely you will find yours.
:::
:::Poston
:::
:::
::::Hi Poston
:::: Thank you for your response. You must be pretty "in tune" when it comes to old radio sets?
:::: The Zenith G725 does not have any of the tubes glowing. I suppose I can order some tubes. What do you think? Thank you for telling me about the hot chassis. I will be careful. When the electical plug is in the socket one way I do not get a shock until the set is turned on. When I reverse the plug in the wall socket the set will shock when the set is off, and then when the set is turned on the set is no longer hot.
:::: The RPC set seems to work pretty well according to my book.(Wich does not necessarily mean much.)I can tell by the way this set works that it is not a superhetrodyne. At times I can get a strong radio station frequency that can bleed in through the full range of the tuning cap. Not always though. The tubes that are in the RPC set are as follows 1A7G, 1N5G, 1H5G, and 1Q5G.
:::: Thank you again and have a great day.
::::Shane
:::::Hi Shane,
:::::Let's take the Zenith first: Chassis 7G01 was used in model G725. You can find the schematic and service data here on NostalgiaAir. From the "Resources" section click on "Zenith", then from the list choose your model "G725". The reason it is shocking you is due to the design of the radio. This is an AC/DC set with a "hot chassis". Depending upon the position of the line cord plug in the receptacle, there is a 50/50 chance the chassis will be hot regardless whether the power switch is ON or OFF. The use of an isolation transformer is highly recommended when servicing a radio like this one. If one is not available, proceed with extreme caution and avoid all contact with the metal chassis when the radio is plugged in. There can be many reasons why it is not working, give us a little more info and we can help you track down the problem. To begin with, are the tubes lighting up?
:::::
:::::Regarding your Radio Products Corp. set, the number you mention is most likely a serial number, not a model number. If you can post the tube numbers we can probably help you determine the model number and find the schematic.
:::::
:::::Poston
:::::
:::::
:::::: My name is Shane. I am certainly not a radio or electronics repair man, but yet in my spare time I like to mess with old radios, especially those that were more of a part of rural life before commercial power was introduced. In the past I got lucky and simply replaced the tubes in a 1937 Delco 32 volt and got it to work.
:::::: Now I have a battery powered set made by Radio Products Corp that I can't find a schematic for. All I have for numbers is a S/N A308871. It is a 4 tube radio. The radio is working.
:::::: I also have a Zenith AM/FM that does not work and is shocking me. I would like to find a schematic for it. All I have is a chassis #7G01. Could it be that since the set is shocking me that I should start replacing capacitors?

:Poston,
: Just a quick note of thanks to you for your help. The Zenith set that we spoke of is now working great. I replaced 1 tube and bingo. It is exciting because this set is one that my mom listened to as a girl. I showed it to her in its working condition. The only thing that it needs is an indicator needle. Do you have any idea where I can find this part?
: As I said before the RPC set works but needs some tuning I believe. It turns out that the set is a superhetrodyne model 55. When I get back on track with the RPC I'll let you know.
: I also have a RCA set that works but I do not know the model number at this time. An older man gave me a Zenith Trans-Oceantic that is a little rough on the outside but it works. I dont't know if I need all these radio sets, but they are kind of fun to learn about. Thanks again.
:
:Shane
::Shane,
::A note of clarification regarding my last message: For some reason, Radio Products Corp. model 4A is not listed in the NostalgiaAir index. It is on Rider page 9-1 as I mentioned. To find this page, click on models "5E" or "55".
::
::Poston
::
::
:::Shane,
:::Your description of how/when you get shocked is exactly what would be expected in a "hot chassis" AC/DC radio such as your Zenith G725. The tube filaments in an AC/DC radio like this one are wired in series, therefore if one is burned out none will light. Most likely only one tube is bad. If you don't have access to a tube tester, you can check their filaments with an ohmmeter. The filaments of the 7-pin tubes (12BA6, 12AU6, and 35B5) are between pins 3 and 4. For the 9-pin tubes (12AT7 and 19T8) they are between pins 4 and 5. Here is a website where you can look up base diagrams of the tubes to help you identify the pin numbers: http://hereford.ampr.org/cgi-bin/tube
:::
:::I looked at a few of the Radio Products Corp. schematics here on NostalgiaAir. Model 4A (Rider page 9-1) looks like it may be yours. Tube lineup is 1A7, 1N5, 1H5, and 1C5. (Note: 1Q5 is an appropriate substitute for a 1C5.) If this schematic does not match, you might look through the other Radio Products Corp. model listings and most likely you will find yours.
:::
:::Poston
:::
:::
::::Hi Poston
:::: Thank you for your response. You must be pretty "in tune" when it comes to old radio sets?
:::: The Zenith G725 does not have any of the tubes glowing. I suppose I can order some tubes. What do you think? Thank you for telling me about the hot chassis. I will be careful. When the electical plug is in the socket one way I do not get a shock until the set is turned on. When I reverse the plug in the wall socket the set will shock when the set is off, and then when the set is turned on the set is no longer hot.
:::: The RPC set seems to work pretty well according to my book.(Wich does not necessarily mean much.)I can tell by the way this set works that it is not a superhetrodyne. At times I can get a strong radio station frequency that can bleed in through the full range of the tuning cap. Not always though. The tubes that are in the RPC set are as follows 1A7G, 1N5G, 1H5G, and 1Q5G.
:::: Thank you again and have a great day.
::::Shane
:::::Hi Shane,
:::::Let's take the Zenith first: Chassis 7G01 was used in model G725. You can find the schematic and service data here on NostalgiaAir. From the "Resources" section click on "Zenith", then from the list choose your model "G725". The reason it is shocking you is due to the design of the radio. This is an AC/DC set with a "hot chassis". Depending upon the position of the line cord plug in the receptacle, there is a 50/50 chance the chassis will be hot regardless whether the power switch is ON or OFF. The use of an isolation transformer is highly recommended when servicing a radio like this one. If one is not available, proceed with extreme caution and avoid all contact with the metal chassis when the radio is plugged in. There can be many reasons why it is not working, give us a little more info and we can help you track down the problem. To begin with, are the tubes lighting up?
:::::
:::::Regarding your Radio Products Corp. set, the number you mention is most likely a serial number, not a model number. If you can post the tube numbers we can probably help you determine the model number and find the schematic.
:::::
:::::Poston
:::::
:::::
:::::: My name is Shane. I am certainly not a radio or electronics repair man, but yet in my spare time I like to mess with old radios, especially those that were more of a part of rural life before commercial power was introduced. In the past I got lucky and simply replaced the tubes in a 1937 Delco 32 volt and got it to work.
:::::: Now I have a battery powered set made by Radio Products Corp that I can't find a schematic for. All I have for numbers is a S/N A308871. It is a 4 tube radio. The radio is working.
:::::: I also have a Zenith AM/FM that does not work and is shocking me. I would like to find a schematic for it. All I have is a chassis #7G01. Could it be that since the set is shocking me that I should start replacing capacitors?