Click on the schematic to make it larger. Yes, the resistor is 100 ohms. Since it burned out, the lamp and a section of filament in your 35Z5 is probably open.
http://ww3.nostalgiaair.org/schematics/FRW/_FRW_15-1.gif
Be sure electrolytic caps are rated 150 volts or more. Positive connects toward pin #8 on your 35Z5. One positive lead is on each side of the speaker field. One place where you can find the negative is pin #3 on 12SQ7.
If your 35Z5 filament is open between pins 2 and 3 jump across the 100 ohm resistor for a test. Be sure electroltyics are correct first. This will power the radio but pilot light won't work until the jumper is removed and 35Z5 replaced.
Norm
:As I was finishing the recapping project I left the electrolytics for last. I tested the radio every 3 paper caps to make sure I did not make an error and all worked well. However, I must have gotten the wires crossed on the electrolytics. It seems the one wire coming out of one end of the old paper can that is usually negative was not. And that the end with two wires had the negative. As a result, BOOM! I blew a resistor under tube 35Z5 GT. Also, one of the electrolytic caps (30MFD) was very hot. I removed both and will replace. The resistor is burned beyond reading. On the online scan at this site the numbers are fuzzy but it looks like the resistor is 100 (?). Is this correct? Do I have a chance of bringing this beautiful radio back to life?
:Thank you,
:Hi Greg
:
: Click on the schematic to make it larger. Yes, the resistor is 100 ohms. Since it burned out, the lamp and a section of filament in your 35Z5 is probably open.
:
: http://ww3.nostalgiaair.org/schematics/FRW/_FRW_15-1.gif
:
: Be sure electrolytic caps are rated 150 volts or more. Positive connects toward pin #8 on your 35Z5. One positive lead is on each side of the speaker field. One place where you can find the negative is pin #3 on 12SQ7.
:
: If your 35Z5 filament is open between pins 2 and 3 jump across the 100 ohm resistor for a test. Be sure electroltyics are correct first. This will power the radio but pilot light won't work until the jumper is removed and 35Z5 replaced.
:
:Norm
:
:
:
::As I was finishing the recapping project I left the electrolytics for last. I tested the radio every 3 paper caps to make sure I did not make an error and all worked well. However, I must have gotten the wires crossed on the electrolytics. It seems the one wire coming out of one end of the old paper can that is usually negative was not. And that the end with two wires had the negative. As a result, BOOM! I blew a resistor under tube 35Z5 GT. Also, one of the electrolytic caps (30MFD) was very hot. I removed both and will replace. The resistor is burned beyond reading. On the online scan at this site the numbers are fuzzy but it looks like the resistor is 100 (?). Is this correct? Do I have a chance of bringing this beautiful radio back to life?
::Thank you,
The resistor will get very hot if a section of the 35Z5 filament is open. All filament current will go through this resistor. Check filament of your 35Z5 with an ohm meter. Pins 2, 3 and 7 should show continuity.
If open between 2 and 3 you can jump across the 100 ohm resistor. The radio will again have power. Pin #8 of your 35Z5 is cathode, B+ voltage starts. If only a section of filament is open jumping the resistor will work. Other things could have gone wrong with this tube. In any case you will need another 35Z5. Not likely any other tube would have been damaged.
Norm
:Norm, I tried a 100 OHM resistor at 1Watt. The radio powered up but no reception. The pilot light did not work, either- as you said. When I removed the resistor from the test it was very hot. It seems the electrolytics are now wired corectly. Do I need to replace the 35Z5? Should I solder the above resistor in place even though it got very hot?
:You have been of great help,
:Thanks,
:
:
::Hi Greg
::
:: Click on the schematic to make it larger. Yes, the resistor is 100 ohms. Since it burned out, the lamp and a section of filament in your 35Z5 is probably open.
::
:: http://ww3.nostalgiaair.org/schematics/FRW/_FRW_15-1.gif
::
:: Be sure electrolytic caps are rated 150 volts or more. Positive connects toward pin #8 on your 35Z5. One positive lead is on each side of the speaker field. One place where you can find the negative is pin #3 on 12SQ7.
::
:: If your 35Z5 filament is open between pins 2 and 3 jump across the 100 ohm resistor for a test. Be sure electroltyics are correct first. This will power the radio but pilot light won't work until the jumper is removed and 35Z5 replaced.
::
::Norm
::
::
::
:::As I was finishing the recapping project I left the electrolytics for last. I tested the radio every 3 paper caps to make sure I did not make an error and all worked well. However, I must have gotten the wires crossed on the electrolytics. It seems the one wire coming out of one end of the old paper can that is usually negative was not. And that the end with two wires had the negative. As a result, BOOM! I blew a resistor under tube 35Z5 GT. Also, one of the electrolytic caps (30MFD) was very hot. I removed both and will replace. The resistor is burned beyond reading. On the online scan at this site the numbers are fuzzy but it looks like the resistor is 100 (?). Is this correct? Do I have a chance of bringing this beautiful radio back to life?
:::Thank you,