I have a monkey wards airline tabletop radio with tubes 43,25z5, two 6d6's and one 6c6. On the back of one of the transformer cans is penciled 1934 and 05B-A. Last letter could be an R. Doesn,t use a power transformer, just a big long resistor along the back of the chassis. I would guess this is a ballast resistor. Oh well doesnt matter. Just would like to get the hum out of it so it will play

Hi,
The filter caps are all that should need attention if it seems to want to work otherwise. You should have 2 caps in the power supply with a rating of 8 to 10 microfarads, with a working voltage of 160 volts. There should be one additional 8 - 10 microfarad capacitor in the audio output, which should have a working voltage of 25 or 35 volts DC.

A single unit replacement is available from AES (www.tubesandmore.com), or individual replacement can be purchased from Digi-Key (www.digikey.com)

:I have a monkey wards airline tabletop radio with tubes 43,25z5, two 6d6's and one 6c6. On the back of one of the transformer cans is penciled 1934 and 05B-A. Last letter could be an R. Doesn,t use a power transformer, just a big long resistor along the back of the chassis. I would guess this is a ballast resistor. Oh well doesnt matter. Just would like to get the hum out of it so it will play

:Hi,
:The filter caps are all that should need attention if it seems to want to work otherwise. You should have 2 caps in the power supply with a rating of 8 to 10 microfarads, with a working voltage of 160 volts. There should be one additional 8 - 10 microfarad capacitor in the audio output, which should have a working voltage of 25 or 35 volts DC.
:
:A single unit replacement is available from AES (www.tubesandmore.com), or individual replacement can be purchased from Digi-Key (www.digikey.com)
:
:
::I have a monkey wards airline tabletop radio with tubes 43,25z5, two 6d6's and one 6c6. On the back of one of the transformer cans is penciled 1934 and 05B-A. Last letter could be an R. Doesn,t use a power transformer, just a big long resistor along the back of the chassis. I would guess this is a ballast resistor. Oh well doesnt matter. Just would like to get the hum out of it so it will play

:Hi,
:The filter caps are all that should need attention if it seems to want to work otherwise. You should have 2 caps in the power supply with a rating of 8 to 10 microfarads, with a working voltage of 160 volts. There should be one additional 8 - 10 microfarad capacitor in the audio output, which should have a working voltage of 25 or 35 volts DC.
:
:A single unit replacement is available from AES (www.tubesandmore.com), or individual replacement can be purchased from Digi-Key (www.digikey.com)
:
:
::I have a monkey wards airline tabletop radio with tubes 43,25z5, two 6d6's and one 6c6. On the back of one of the transformer cans is penciled 1934 and 05B-A. Last letter could be an R. Doesn,t use a power transformer, just a big long resistor along the back of the chassis. I would guess this is a ballast resistor. Oh well doesnt matter. Just would like to get the hum out of it so it will play...........

Thats all the set does is hum. no play at all.

Hi,
Attend to the filter caps first. There may be other alignment problems too, but you cannot address those very well until the filter hum is addressed.

Wells Gardner used a similar chassis for a number of Allied, Knight, Lafayette, and others so without a more complete model number, one of these may be used as a general guide for further trouble shooting. Is there any number embossed in the bottom of the wood cabinet?

:Thats all the set does is hum. no play at all.

:Hi,
:Attend to the filter caps first. There may be other alignment problems too, but you cannot address those very well until the filter hum is addressed.
:
:Wells Gardner used a similar chassis for a number of Allied, Knight, Lafayette, and others so without a more complete model number, one of these may be used as a general guide for further trouble shooting. Is there any number embossed in the bottom of the wood cabinet?
:
:
::Thats all the set does is hum. no play at all.
on the bottom underside is a 3 embossed or stamped

::Hi,
::Attend to the filter caps first. There may be other alignment problems too, but you cannot address those very well until the filter hum is addressed.
::
::Wells Gardner used a similar chassis for a number of Allied, Knight, Lafayette, and others so without a more complete model number, one of these may be used as a general guide for further trouble shooting. Is there any number embossed in the bottom of the wood cabinet?
::
::
:::Thats all the set does is hum. no play at all.
:on the bottom underside is a 3 embossed or stamped

so how do I find a wells gardner set with my tubes in it?

P.S. th only cap that hasn't been replaced is a .oo6 micro from the plate to ground on the 43 tube. The new caps stuffed in there are 47uf, 33uf, (2) 22ufs. These all go to ground

::Hi,
::Attend to the filter caps first. There may be other alignment problems too, but you cannot address those very well until the filter hum is addressed.
::
::Wells Gardner used a similar chassis for a number of Allied, Knight, Lafayette, and others so without a more complete model number, one of these may be used as a general guide for further trouble shooting. Is there any number embossed in the bottom of the wood cabinet?
::
::
:::Thats all the set does is hum. no play at all.
:on the bottom underside is a 3 embossed or stamped

o.k. took out one of the 6d6's and the hum got louder until the filaments cooled off.
took out the 25z5, hum goes away. Same with the 43,....but wouldn't the hum dissapear anyway taking out the 43 since this is the output tube?

:::Hi,
:::Attend to the filter caps first. There may be other alignment problems too, but you cannot address those very well until the filter hum is addressed.
:::
:::Wells Gardner used a similar chassis for a number of Allied, Knight, Lafayette, and others so without a more complete model number, one of these may be used as a general guide for further trouble shooting. Is there any number embossed in the bottom of the wood cabinet?
:::
:::
::::Thats all the set does is hum. no play at all.
::on the bottom underside is a 3 embossed or stamped
:
:o.k. took out one of the 6d6's and the hum got louder until the filaments cooled off.
:took out the 25z5, hum goes away. Same with the 43,....but wouldn't the hum dissapear anyway taking out the 43 since this is the output tube?

decided to try a 1uf cap across the 006.uf cap...hum got softer, tried a 10 uf cap, and hum is really soft. so is this good? the 006 cap is from the plate of the 43 to ground or chassis.

::Hi,
::Attend to the filter caps first. There may be other alignment problems too, but you cannot address those very well until the filter hum is addressed.
::
::Wells Gardner used a similar chassis for a number of Allied, Knight, Lafayette, and others so without a more complete model number, one of these may be used as a general guide for further trouble shooting. Is there any number embossed in the bottom of the wood cabinet?
::
::
:::Thats all the set does is hum. no play at all.
:on the bottom underside is a 3 embossed or stamped

:o.k. took out one of the 6d6's and the hum got louder until the filaments cooled off.
:took out the 25z5, hum goes away. Same with the 43,....but wouldn't the hum dissapear anyway taking out the 43 since this is the output tube?

decided to try a 1uf cap across the 006.uf cap...hum got softer, tried a 10 uf cap, and hum is really soft. so is this good? the 006 cap is from the plate of the 43 to ground or chassis.

Hi,
When I get little more time to see if there is at least a good representative schematic in Riders.

The plate voltage that the 43 getsis on end of the primary winding of the output transformer, the "B" voltage from the power supply goes to the other end of that winding. The hum remains because the speaker field coil is part of the filtering and there is a little bit of capacitive coupling between windings of the out put transformer. The hum would be a normal expectation.

There will be a filter cap connected at both ends of the field coil winding, and should be located in one, or two tall, round metal cans with no large openings (but there may be a tiny 1/16" diameter vent hole. These are the caps that will have greatest effect on the hum. Make sure the working voltage of the replacement cap is at least 160 volts.

The design of your radio is one where that .006 Mfd capacitor is a bypass capacitor to bypass any RF that remains in the audio signal to ground, otherwise it gets disipated as heat in the output transformer. There should be either a cap across the primary winding of the output transformer, or tied to the cathode of the 43; which should be at least .5 Mfd, but that can vary as I had an Air King that only had a .006 Mfd, which is why I will need to do some checking.

With those big can caps, solder a short terminal strip to the lug out of the bottom so you can isolate the cap from the circuit, yet keep the wires in about the same location. This is because many times those caps can short out.

::on the bottom underside is a 3 embossed or stamped
:
::o.k. took out one of the 6d6's and the hum got louder until the filaments cooled off.
::took out the 25z5, hum goes away. Same with the 43,....but wouldn't the hum dissapear anyway taking out the 43 since this is the output tube?
:
:decided to try a 1uf cap across the 006.uf cap...hum got softer, tried a 10 uf cap, and hum is really soft. so is this good? the 006 cap is from the plate of the 43 to ground or chassis.
:

:Hi,
:When I get little more time to see if there is at least a good representative schematic in Riders.
:
:The plate voltage that the 43 getsis on end of the primary winding of the output transformer, the "B" voltage from the power supply goes to the other end of that winding. The hum remains because the speaker field coil is part of the filtering and there is a little bit of capacitive coupling between windings of the out put transformer. The hum would be a normal expectation.
:
:There will be a filter cap connected at both ends of the field coil winding, and should be located in one, or two tall, round metal cans with no large openings (but there may be a tiny 1/16" diameter vent hole. These are the caps that will have greatest effect on the hum. Make sure the working voltage of the replacement cap is at least 160 volts.
:
:The design of your radio is one where that .006 Mfd capacitor is a bypass capacitor to bypass any RF that remains in the audio signal to ground, otherwise it gets disipated as heat in the output transformer. There should be either a cap across the primary winding of the output transformer, or tied to the cathode of the 43; which should be at least .5 Mfd, but that can vary as I had an Air King that only had a .006 Mfd, which is why I will need to do some checking.
:
:With those big can caps, solder a short terminal strip to the lug out of the bottom so you can isolate the cap from the circuit, yet keep the wires in about the same location. This is because many times those caps can short out.
:
:
:
:::on the bottom underside is a 3 embossed or stamped
::
:::o.k. took out one of the 6d6's and the hum got louder until the filaments cooled off.
:::took out the 25z5, hum goes away. Same with the 43,....but wouldn't the hum dissapear anyway taking out the 43 since this is the output tube?
::
::decided to try a 1uf cap across the 006.uf cap...hum got softer, tried a 10 uf cap, and hum is really soft. so is this good? the 006 cap is from the plate of the 43 to ground or chassis.
::
alll of the caps are axial lead caps underneath the chassis. they are all tied to ground, just not physically at the same spot. they have been recently replaced by someone. the 006 cap is still original

:Hi,
:When I get little more time to see if there is at least a good representative schematic in Riders.
:
:The plate voltage that the 43 getsis on end of the primary winding of the output transformer, the "B" voltage from the power supply goes to the other end of that winding. The hum remains because the speaker field coil is part of the filtering and there is a little bit of capacitive coupling between windings of the out put transformer. The hum would be a normal expectation.
:
:There will be a filter cap connected at both ends of the field coil winding, and should be located in one, or two tall, round metal cans with no large openings (but there may be a tiny 1/16" diameter vent hole. These are the caps that will have greatest effect on the hum. Make sure the working voltage of the replacement cap is at least 160 volts.
:
:The design of your radio is one where that .006 Mfd capacitor is a bypass capacitor to bypass any RF that remains in the audio signal to ground, otherwise it gets disipated as heat in the output transformer. There should be either a cap across the primary winding of the output transformer, or tied to the cathode of the 43; which should be at least .5 Mfd, but that can vary as I had an Air King that only had a .006 Mfd, which is why I will need to do some checking.
:
:With those big can caps, solder a short terminal strip to the lug out of the bottom so you can isolate the cap from the circuit, yet keep the wires in about the same location. This is because many times those caps can short out.
:
:
:
:::on the bottom underside is a 3 embossed or stamped
::
:::o.k. took out one of the 6d6's and the hum got louder until the filaments cooled off.
:::took out the 25z5, hum goes away. Same with the 43,....but wouldn't the hum dissapear anyway taking out the 43 since this is the output tube?
::
::decided to try a 1uf cap across the 006.uf cap...hum got softer, tried a 10 uf cap, and hum is really soft. so is this good? the 006 cap is from the plate of the 43 to ground or chassis.
::
alll of the caps are axial lead caps underneath the chassis. they are all tied to ground, just not physically at the same spot. they have been recently replaced by someone. the 006 cap is still original

Hi Sean & John

Use the schematic for 62-104. This may be your radio?

http://ww3.nostalgiaair.org/schematics/MWC/_MWC_4-16.gif

I haven't been following but read something about hum. Be sure electrolytic caps have been replaced and old ones removed.

In a series filament wired radio it's not a good idea to pull tubes while it's operating. The rectifier supplies current to your radio. When you pull tubes the rectifier filament starts cooling while it's still trying to supply current. In MW 62-104 one half the rectifier powers your speaker field which is a constant load even while tubes are cooling.

Norm

::Hi,
::When I get little more time to see if there is at least a good representative schematic in Riders.
::
::The plate voltage that the 43 getsis on end of the primary winding of the output transformer, the "B" voltage from the power supply goes to the other end of that winding. The hum remains because the speaker field coil is part of the filtering and there is a little bit of capacitive coupling between windings of the out put transformer. The hum would be a normal expectation.
::
::There will be a filter cap connected at both ends of the field coil winding, and should be located in one, or two tall, round metal cans with no large openings (but there may be a tiny 1/16" diameter vent hole. These are the caps that will have greatest effect on the hum. Make sure the working voltage of the replacement cap is at least 160 volts.
::
::The design of your radio is one where that .006 Mfd capacitor is a bypass capacitor to bypass any RF that remains in the audio signal to ground, otherwise it gets disipated as heat in the output transformer. There should be either a cap across the primary winding of the output transformer, or tied to the cathode of the 43; which should be at least .5 Mfd, but that can vary as I had an Air King that only had a .006 Mfd, which is why I will need to do some checking.
::
::With those big can caps, solder a short terminal strip to the lug out of the bottom so you can isolate the cap from the circuit, yet keep the wires in about the same location. This is because many times those caps can short out.
::
::
::
::::on the bottom underside is a 3 embossed or stamped
:::
::::o.k. took out one of the 6d6's and the hum got louder until the filaments cooled off.
::::took out the 25z5, hum goes away. Same with the 43,....but wouldn't the hum dissapear anyway taking out the 43 since this is the output tube?
:::
:::decided to try a 1uf cap across the 006.uf cap...hum got softer, tried a 10 uf cap, and hum is really soft. so is this good? the 006 cap is from the plate of the 43 to ground or chassis.
:::
:alll of the caps are axial lead caps underneath the chassis. they are all tied to ground, just not physically at the same spot. they have been recently replaced by someone. the 006 cap is still original

:Hi Sean & John
:
: Use the schematic for 62-104. This may be your radio?
:
:http://ww3.nostalgiaair.org/schematics/MWC/_MWC_4-16.gif
:
: I haven't been following but read something about hum. Be sure electrolytic caps have been replaced and old ones removed.
:
: In a series filament wired radio it's not a good idea to pull tubes while it's operating. The rectifier supplies current to your radio. When you pull tubes the rectifier filament starts cooling while it's still trying to supply current. In MW 62-104 one half the rectifier powers your speaker field which is a constant load even while tubes are cooling.
:
:Norm
:
:::Hi,
:::When I get little more time to see if there is at least a good representative schematic in Riders.
:::
:::The plate voltage that the 43 getsis on end of the primary winding of the output transformer, the "B" voltage from the power supply goes to the other end of that winding. The hum remains because the speaker field coil is part of the filtering and there is a little bit of capacitive coupling between windings of the out put transformer. The hum would be a normal expectation.
:::
:::There will be a filter cap connected at both ends of the field coil winding, and should be located in one, or two tall, round metal cans with no large openings (but there may be a tiny 1/16" diameter vent hole. These are the caps that will have greatest effect on the hum. Make sure the working voltage of the replacement cap is at least 160 volts.
:::
:::The design of your radio is one where that .006 Mfd capacitor is a bypass capacitor to bypass any RF that remains in the audio signal to ground, otherwise it gets disipated as heat in the output transformer. There should be either a cap across the primary winding of the output transformer, or tied to the cathode of the 43; which should be at least .5 Mfd, but that can vary as I had an Air King that only had a .006 Mfd, which is why I will need to do some checking.
:::
:::With those big can caps, solder a short terminal strip to the lug out of the bottom so you can isolate the cap from the circuit, yet keep the wires in about the same location. This is because many times those caps can short out.
:::
:::
:::
:::::on the bottom underside is a 3 embossed or stamped
::::
:::::o.k. took out one of the 6d6's and the hum got louder until the filaments cooled off.
:::::took out the 25z5, hum goes away. Same with the 43,....but wouldn't the hum dissapear anyway taking out the 43 since this is the output tube?
::::
::::decided to try a 1uf cap across the 006.uf cap...hum got softer, tried a 10 uf cap, and hum is really soft. so is this good? the 006 cap is from the plate of the 43 to ground or chassis.
::::
::alll of the caps are axial lead caps underneath the chassis. they are all tied to ground, just not physically at the same spot. they have been recently replaced by someone. the 006 cap is still original

Well thanks norm that looks like the schematic is right!
question #1 is do we try from scratch and put original value caps back in the set? The ones installed are much higher than in the schematic(the guy gave this set to me when I bought some radios from him. ) He was trying to fix it, when he retired out of the antique radio business. he even said this radio was difficult to get the hum out of. So as to getting the hum out of it, I dont know if adding a much larger cap on the plate of the 43 output tube is good or not. a 22 uf cap does reduce the hum a lot, but will it hurt anything? I did read the"bah hum bug"article. so does this set fall under the pesky 6d6 tube hum. I did think about ordering new tubes, but I thought maybe substitutes might work better?

Hi Sean

22 mf is plenty for electrolytic filter caps. I hope you mean it's connected to pin #3 of the 43 not plate? This large of a cap on pin #2, plate, will stop radio operation.

Is the tube driving your 43 shielded? It may require shielding to reduce hum?

Since this radio uses two separate rectifier sections, one for speaker field and other for radio, try reversing field leads? This may have a hum cancelling effect?

Norm

::Hi Sean & John
::
:: Use the schematic for 62-104. This may be your radio?
::
::http://ww3.nostalgiaair.org/schematics/MWC/_MWC_4-16.gif
::
:: I haven't been following but read something about hum. Be sure electrolytic caps have been replaced and old ones removed.
::
:: In a series filament wired radio it's not a good idea to pull tubes while it's operating. The rectifier supplies current to your radio. When you pull tubes the rectifier filament starts cooling while it's still trying to supply current. In MW 62-104 one half the rectifier powers your speaker field which is a constant load even while tubes are cooling.
::
::Norm
::
::::Hi,
::::When I get little more time to see if there is at least a good representative schematic in Riders.
::::
::::The plate voltage that the 43 getsis on end of the primary winding of the output transformer, the "B" voltage from the power supply goes to the other end of that winding. The hum remains because the speaker field coil is part of the filtering and there is a little bit of capacitive coupling between windings of the out put transformer. The hum would be a normal expectation.
::::
::::There will be a filter cap connected at both ends of the field coil winding, and should be located in one, or two tall, round metal cans with no large openings (but there may be a tiny 1/16" diameter vent hole. These are the caps that will have greatest effect on the hum. Make sure the working voltage of the replacement cap is at least 160 volts.
::::
::::The design of your radio is one where that .006 Mfd capacitor is a bypass capacitor to bypass any RF that remains in the audio signal to ground, otherwise it gets disipated as heat in the output transformer. There should be either a cap across the primary winding of the output transformer, or tied to the cathode of the 43; which should be at least .5 Mfd, but that can vary as I had an Air King that only had a .006 Mfd, which is why I will need to do some checking.
::::
::::With those big can caps, solder a short terminal strip to the lug out of the bottom so you can isolate the cap from the circuit, yet keep the wires in about the same location. This is because many times those caps can short out.
::::
::::
::::
::::::on the bottom underside is a 3 embossed or stamped
:::::
::::::o.k. took out one of the 6d6's and the hum got louder until the filaments cooled off.
::::::took out the 25z5, hum goes away. Same with the 43,....but wouldn't the hum dissapear anyway taking out the 43 since this is the output tube?
:::::
:::::decided to try a 1uf cap across the 006.uf cap...hum got softer, tried a 10 uf cap, and hum is really soft. so is this good? the 006 cap is from the plate of the 43 to ground or chassis.
:::::
:::alll of the caps are axial lead caps underneath the chassis. they are all tied to ground, just not physically at the same spot. they have been recently replaced by someone. the 006 cap is still original
:
:Well thanks norm that looks like the schematic is right!
:question #1 is do we try from scratch and put original value caps back in the set? The ones installed are much higher than in the schematic(the guy gave this set to me when I bought some radios from him. ) He was trying to fix it, when he retired out of the antique radio business. he even said this radio was difficult to get the hum out of. So as to getting the hum out of it, I dont know if adding a much larger cap on the plate of the 43 output tube is good or not. a 22 uf cap does reduce the hum a lot, but will it hurt anything? I did read the"bah hum bug"article. so does this set fall under the pesky 6d6 tube hum. I did think about ordering new tubes, but I thought maybe substitutes might work better?

Hi,

Regarding Sean's question about going with larger filter caps in general; to a certain point it is okay, but if there is a short between the cathode and the heater inside a tube, it will not eliminate it. The cap values of the original filter caps are a good guideline, but if you are looking at a pair of 100 Mfd caps on the filter string, this is excessive. If you happen to have another radio with the same tubes, or a number of them, try swapping one at a time until the hum goes away. As for the large cap on the audio output, you are not going to hear much difference, even though it would improve bass response- It was one method of improving audio fidelity in numerous amps.

Also too, because the radio had been worked on previously- Never assume all was done correctly, or that workmanship is always tidy and correct- something may have been forgotten during the coffee break, something as simple as a heater wire having been pushed close to the grid of any tube ahead of the final audio could do it. It would not hurt to check the wire routing, component layout, where terminals are resting, condition of solder joints, etc. Something as simple as a wire being pinched, cold solder joint, or a mica cap resting against a heater terminal is enough to induce/produce hum.

Due to the nature of tubes, until you are running strictly battery power, you will get some hum. You can often hear powerline hum in most radios, most of the time it is low enough that it is overlooked.

:Hi Sean
:
: 22 mf is plenty for electrolytic filter caps. I hope you mean it's connected to pin #3 of the 43 not plate? This large of a cap on pin #2, plate, will stop radio operation.
:
: Is the tube driving your 43 shielded? It may require shielding to reduce hum?
:
: Since this radio uses two separate rectifier sections, one for speaker field and other for radio, try reversing field leads? This may have a hum cancelling effect?
:
:Norm
:
:
:
:::Hi Sean & John
:::
::: Use the schematic for 62-104. This may be your radio?
:::
:::http://ww3.nostalgiaair.org/schematics/MWC/_MWC_4-16.gif
:::
::: I haven't been following but read something about hum. Be sure electrolytic caps have been replaced and old ones removed.
:::
::: In a series filament wired radio it's not a good idea to pull tubes while it's operating. The rectifier supplies current to your radio. When you pull tubes the rectifier filament starts cooling while it's still trying to supply current. In MW 62-104 one half the rectifier powers your speaker field which is a constant load even while tubes are cooling.
:::
:::Norm
:::
:::::Hi,
:::::When I get little more time to see if there is at least a good representative schematic in Riders.
:::::
:::::The plate voltage that the 43 getsis on end of the primary winding of the output transformer, the "B" voltage from the power supply goes to the other end of that winding. The hum remains because the speaker field coil is part of the filtering and there is a little bit of capacitive coupling between windings of the out put transformer. The hum would be a normal expectation.
:::::
:::::There will be a filter cap connected at both ends of the field coil winding, and should be located in one, or two tall, round metal cans with no large openings (but there may be a tiny 1/16" diameter vent hole. These are the caps that will have greatest effect on the hum. Make sure the working voltage of the replacement cap is at least 160 volts.
:::::
:::::The design of your radio is one where that .006 Mfd capacitor is a bypass capacitor to bypass any RF that remains in the audio signal to ground, otherwise it gets disipated as heat in the output transformer. There should be either a cap across the primary winding of the output transformer, or tied to the cathode of the 43; which should be at least .5 Mfd, but that can vary as I had an Air King that only had a .006 Mfd, which is why I will need to do some checking.
:::::
:::::With those big can caps, solder a short terminal strip to the lug out of the bottom so you can isolate the cap from the circuit, yet keep the wires in about the same location. This is because many times those caps can short out.
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::::on the bottom underside is a 3 embossed or stamped
::::::
:::::::o.k. took out one of the 6d6's and the hum got louder until the filaments cooled off.
:::::::took out the 25z5, hum goes away. Same with the 43,....but wouldn't the hum dissapear anyway taking out the 43 since this is the output tube?
::::::
::::::decided to try a 1uf cap across the 006.uf cap...hum got softer, tried a 10 uf cap, and hum is really soft. so is this good? the 006 cap is from the plate of the 43 to ground or chassis.
::::::
::::alll of the caps are axial lead caps underneath the chassis. they are all tied to ground, just not physically at the same spot. they have been recently replaced by someone. the 006 cap is still original
::
::Well thanks norm that looks like the schematic is right!
::question #1 is do we try from scratch and put original value caps back in the set? The ones installed are much higher than in the schematic(the guy gave this set to me when I bought some radios from him. ) He was trying to fix it, when he retired out of the antique radio business. he even said this radio was difficult to get the hum out of. So as to getting the hum out of it, I dont know if adding a much larger cap on the plate of the 43 output tube is good or not. a 22 uf cap does reduce the hum a lot, but will it hurt anything? I did read the"bah hum bug"article. so does this set fall under the pesky 6d6 tube hum. I did think about ordering new tubes, but I thought maybe substitutes might work better?

:Hi Sean & John
:
: Use the schematic for 62-104. This may be your radio?
:
:http://ww3.nostalgiaair.org/schematics/MWC/_MWC_4-16.gif
:
: I haven't been following but read something about hum. Be sure electrolytic caps have been replaced and old ones removed.
:
: In a series filament wired radio it's not a good idea to pull tubes while it's operating. The rectifier supplies current to your radio. When you pull tubes the rectifier filament starts cooling while it's still trying to supply current. In MW 62-104 one half the rectifier powers your speaker field which is a constant load even while tubes are cooling.
:
:Norm
:
:::Hi,
:::When I get little more time to see if there is at least a good representative schematic in Riders.
:::
:::The plate voltage that the 43 getsis on end of the primary winding of the output transformer, the "B" voltage from the power supply goes to the other end of that winding. The hum remains because the speaker field coil is part of the filtering and there is a little bit of capacitive coupling between windings of the out put transformer. The hum would be a normal expectation.
:::
:::There will be a filter cap connected at both ends of the field coil winding, and should be located in one, or two tall, round metal cans with no large openings (but there may be a tiny 1/16" diameter vent hole. These are the caps that will have greatest effect on the hum. Make sure the working voltage of the replacement cap is at least 160 volts.
:::
:::The design of your radio is one where that .006 Mfd capacitor is a bypass capacitor to bypass any RF that remains in the audio signal to ground, otherwise it gets disipated as heat in the output transformer. There should be either a cap across the primary winding of the output transformer, or tied to the cathode of the 43; which should be at least .5 Mfd, but that can vary as I had an Air King that only had a .006 Mfd, which is why I will need to do some checking.
:::
:::With those big can caps, solder a short terminal strip to the lug out of the bottom so you can isolate the cap from the circuit, yet keep the wires in about the same location. This is because many times those caps can short out.
:::
:::
:::
:::::on the bottom underside is a 3 embossed or stamped
::::
:::::o.k. took out one of the 6d6's and the hum got louder until the filaments cooled off.
:::::took out the 25z5, hum goes away. Same with the 43,....but wouldn't the hum dissapear anyway taking out the 43 since this is the output tube?
::::
::::decided to try a 1uf cap across the 006.uf cap...hum got softer, tried a 10 uf cap, and hum is really soft. so is this good? the 006 cap is from the plate of the 43 to ground or chassis.
::::
::alll of the caps are axial lead caps underneath the chassis. they are all tied to ground, just not physically at the same spot. they have been recently replaced by someone. the 006 cap is still original

yes pin 3 of the 43 output tube which I thought was the plate. All tubes are shielded other than the 25z5 and the 43. And in response to johns tube info...dont have spare tubes for this radio so I'll just have to order some. Question is do I order 6c6's, 6d6's or order substitutes(recalling the acticle(bah hum bug) since that article said these tubes had problems

Hi

A #77 will replace 6C6 and #78 replaces 6D6 if you have those. As John mentioned all AC radios will have some AC hum if you listen close enough. How loud is the hum in your radio? When listening to a station you shouldn't hear hum.

6C6 & 6D6 being tall tubes, used in early stages will pick up more hum than some others. Shouldn't be a problem with shields which you have.

Norm

::Hi Sean & John
::
:: Use the schematic for 62-104. This may be your radio?
::
::http://ww3.nostalgiaair.org/schematics/MWC/_MWC_4-16.gif
::
:: I haven't been following but read something about hum. Be sure electrolytic caps have been replaced and old ones removed.
::
:: In a series filament wired radio it's not a good idea to pull tubes while it's operating. The rectifier supplies current to your radio. When you pull tubes the rectifier filament starts cooling while it's still trying to supply current. In MW 62-104 one half the rectifier powers your speaker field which is a constant load even while tubes are cooling.
::
::Norm
::
::::Hi,
::::When I get little more time to see if there is at least a good representative schematic in Riders.
::::
::::The plate voltage that the 43 getsis on end of the primary winding of the output transformer, the "B" voltage from the power supply goes to the other end of that winding. The hum remains because the speaker field coil is part of the filtering and there is a little bit of capacitive coupling between windings of the out put transformer. The hum would be a normal expectation.
::::
::::There will be a filter cap connected at both ends of the field coil winding, and should be located in one, or two tall, round metal cans with no large openings (but there may be a tiny 1/16" diameter vent hole. These are the caps that will have greatest effect on the hum. Make sure the working voltage of the replacement cap is at least 160 volts.
::::
::::The design of your radio is one where that .006 Mfd capacitor is a bypass capacitor to bypass any RF that remains in the audio signal to ground, otherwise it gets disipated as heat in the output transformer. There should be either a cap across the primary winding of the output transformer, or tied to the cathode of the 43; which should be at least .5 Mfd, but that can vary as I had an Air King that only had a .006 Mfd, which is why I will need to do some checking.
::::
::::With those big can caps, solder a short terminal strip to the lug out of the bottom so you can isolate the cap from the circuit, yet keep the wires in about the same location. This is because many times those caps can short out.
::::
::::
::::
::::::on the bottom underside is a 3 embossed or stamped
:::::
::::::o.k. took out one of the 6d6's and the hum got louder until the filaments cooled off.
::::::took out the 25z5, hum goes away. Same with the 43,....but wouldn't the hum dissapear anyway taking out the 43 since this is the output tube?
:::::
:::::decided to try a 1uf cap across the 006.uf cap...hum got softer, tried a 10 uf cap, and hum is really soft. so is this good? the 006 cap is from the plate of the 43 to ground or chassis.
:::::
:::alll of the caps are axial lead caps underneath the chassis. they are all tied to ground, just not physically at the same spot. they have been recently replaced by someone. the 006 cap is still original
:
:yes pin 3 of the 43 output tube which I thought was the plate. All tubes are shielded other than the 25z5 and the 43. And in response to johns tube info...dont have spare tubes for this radio so I'll just have to order some. Question is do I order 6c6's, 6d6's or order substitutes(recalling the acticle(bah hum bug) since that article said these tubes had problems

:Hi
:
: A #77 will replace 6C6 and #78 replaces 6D6 if you have those. As John mentioned all AC radios will have some AC hum if you listen close enough. How loud is the hum in your radio? When listening to a station you shouldn't hear hum.
:
: 6C6 & 6D6 being tall tubes, used in early stages will pick up more hum than some others. Shouldn't be a problem with shields which you have.
:
:Norm
:
:::Hi Sean & John
:::
::: Use the schematic for 62-104. This may be your radio?
:::
:::http://ww3.nostalgiaair.org/schematics/MWC/_MWC_4-16.gif
:::
::: I haven't been following but read something about hum. Be sure electrolytic caps have been replaced and old ones removed.
:::
::: In a series filament wired radio it's not a good idea to pull tubes while it's operating. The rectifier supplies current to your radio. When you pull tubes the rectifier filament starts cooling while it's still trying to supply current. In MW 62-104 one half the rectifier powers your speaker field which is a constant load even while tubes are cooling.
:::
:::Norm
:::
:::::Hi,
:::::When I get little more time to see if there is at least a good representative schematic in Riders.
:::::
:::::The plate voltage that the 43 getsis on end of the primary winding of the output transformer, the "B" voltage from the power supply goes to the other end of that winding. The hum remains because the speaker field coil is part of the filtering and there is a little bit of capacitive coupling between windings of the out put transformer. The hum would be a normal expectation.
:::::
:::::There will be a filter cap connected at both ends of the field coil winding, and should be located in one, or two tall, round metal cans with no large openings (but there may be a tiny 1/16" diameter vent hole. These are the caps that will have greatest effect on the hum. Make sure the working voltage of the replacement cap is at least 160 volts.
:::::
:::::The design of your radio is one where that .006 Mfd capacitor is a bypass capacitor to bypass any RF that remains in the audio signal to ground, otherwise it gets disipated as heat in the output transformer. There should be either a cap across the primary winding of the output transformer, or tied to the cathode of the 43; which should be at least .5 Mfd, but that can vary as I had an Air King that only had a .006 Mfd, which is why I will need to do some checking.
:::::
:::::With those big can caps, solder a short terminal strip to the lug out of the bottom so you can isolate the cap from the circuit, yet keep the wires in about the same location. This is because many times those caps can short out.
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::::on the bottom underside is a 3 embossed or stamped
::::::
:::::::o.k. took out one of the 6d6's and the hum got louder until the filaments cooled off.
:::::::took out the 25z5, hum goes away. Same with the 43,....but wouldn't the hum dissapear anyway taking out the 43 since this is the output tube?
::::::
::::::decided to try a 1uf cap across the 006.uf cap...hum got softer, tried a 10 uf cap, and hum is really soft. so is this good? the 006 cap is from the plate of the 43 to ground or chassis.
::::::
::::alll of the caps are axial lead caps underneath the chassis. they are all tied to ground, just not physically at the same spot. they have been recently replaced by someone. the 006 cap is still original
::
::yes pin 3 of the 43 output tube which I thought was the plate. All tubes are shielded other than the 25z5 and the 43. And in response to johns tube info...dont have spare tubes for this radio so I'll just have to order some. Question is do I order 6c6's, 6d6's or order substitutes(recalling the acticle(bah hum bug) since that article said these tubes had problems
::
:well, the hum goes almost away with a 22uf cap on pin 3 of the 43. so then do I still order replacement tubes As I am clueless as to what to do next. Now with no hum, volume control makes little difference as far as sound output, not that it did before, I just don't hear hardly anything now. At least with the hum, volume turned all the way up, you could try to tune it and get squeal at various parts of the dial.

Hi Sean

If hum is at an acceptable listening level the audio & power supply circuits are ok.

Be sure pins #2 & #3 have voltage on 6C6 & 6D6 tubes. Connect an antenna and see what happens.

Norm

::Hi
::
:: A #77 will replace 6C6 and #78 replaces 6D6 if you have those. As John mentioned all AC radios will have some AC hum if you listen close enough. How loud is the hum in your radio? When listening to a station you shouldn't hear hum.
::
:: 6C6 & 6D6 being tall tubes, used in early stages will pick up more hum than some others. Shouldn't be a problem with shields which you have.
::
::Norm
::
::::Hi Sean & John
::::
:::: Use the schematic for 62-104. This may be your radio?
::::
::::http://ww3.nostalgiaair.org/schematics/MWC/_MWC_4-16.gif
::::
:::: I haven't been following but read something about hum. Be sure electrolytic caps have been replaced and old ones removed.
::::
:::: In a series filament wired radio it's not a good idea to pull tubes while it's operating. The rectifier supplies current to your radio. When you pull tubes the rectifier filament starts cooling while it's still trying to supply current. In MW 62-104 one half the rectifier powers your speaker field which is a constant load even while tubes are cooling.
::::
::::Norm
::::
::::::Hi,
::::::When I get little more time to see if there is at least a good representative schematic in Riders.
::::::
::::::The plate voltage that the 43 getsis on end of the primary winding of the output transformer, the "B" voltage from the power supply goes to the other end of that winding. The hum remains because the speaker field coil is part of the filtering and there is a little bit of capacitive coupling between windings of the out put transformer. The hum would be a normal expectation.
::::::
::::::There will be a filter cap connected at both ends of the field coil winding, and should be located in one, or two tall, round metal cans with no large openings (but there may be a tiny 1/16" diameter vent hole. These are the caps that will have greatest effect on the hum. Make sure the working voltage of the replacement cap is at least 160 volts.
::::::
::::::The design of your radio is one where that .006 Mfd capacitor is a bypass capacitor to bypass any RF that remains in the audio signal to ground, otherwise it gets disipated as heat in the output transformer. There should be either a cap across the primary winding of the output transformer, or tied to the cathode of the 43; which should be at least .5 Mfd, but that can vary as I had an Air King that only had a .006 Mfd, which is why I will need to do some checking.
::::::
::::::With those big can caps, solder a short terminal strip to the lug out of the bottom so you can isolate the cap from the circuit, yet keep the wires in about the same location. This is because many times those caps can short out.
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::::on the bottom underside is a 3 embossed or stamped
:::::::
::::::::o.k. took out one of the 6d6's and the hum got louder until the filaments cooled off.
::::::::took out the 25z5, hum goes away. Same with the 43,....but wouldn't the hum dissapear anyway taking out the 43 since this is the output tube?
:::::::
:::::::decided to try a 1uf cap across the 006.uf cap...hum got softer, tried a 10 uf cap, and hum is really soft. so is this good? the 006 cap is from the plate of the 43 to ground or chassis.
:::::::
:::::alll of the caps are axial lead caps underneath the chassis. they are all tied to ground, just not physically at the same spot. they have been recently replaced by someone. the 006 cap is still original
:::
:::yes pin 3 of the 43 output tube which I thought was the plate. All tubes are shielded other than the 25z5 and the 43. And in response to johns tube info...dont have spare tubes for this radio so I'll just have to order some. Question is do I order 6c6's, 6d6's or order substitutes(recalling the acticle(bah hum bug) since that article said these tubes had problems
:::
::well, the hum goes almost away with a 22uf cap on pin 3 of the 43. so then do I still order replacement tubes As I am clueless as to what to do next. Now with no hum, volume control makes little difference as far as sound output, not that it did before, I just don't hear hardly anything now. At least with the hum, volume turned all the way up, you could try to tune it and get squeal at various parts of the dial.

:Hi
:
: A #77 will replace 6C6 and #78 replaces 6D6 if you have those. As John mentioned all AC radios will have some AC hum if you listen close enough. How loud is the hum in your radio? When listening to a station you shouldn't hear hum.
:
: 6C6 & 6D6 being tall tubes, used in early stages will pick up more hum than some others. Shouldn't be a problem with shields which you have.
:
:Norm
:
:::Hi Sean & John
:::
::: Use the schematic for 62-104. This may be your radio?
:::
:::http://ww3.nostalgiaair.org/schematics/MWC/_MWC_4-16.gif
:::
::: I haven't been following but read something about hum. Be sure electrolytic caps have been replaced and old ones removed.
:::
::: In a series filament wired radio it's not a good idea to pull tubes while it's operating. The rectifier supplies current to your radio. When you pull tubes the rectifier filament starts cooling while it's still trying to supply current. In MW 62-104 one half the rectifier powers your speaker field which is a constant load even while tubes are cooling.
:::
:::Norm
:::
:::::Hi,
:::::When I get little more time to see if there is at least a good representative schematic in Riders.
:::::
:::::The plate voltage that the 43 getsis on end of the primary winding of the output transformer, the "B" voltage from the power supply goes to the other end of that winding. The hum remains because the speaker field coil is part of the filtering and there is a little bit of capacitive coupling between windings of the out put transformer. The hum would be a normal expectation.
:::::
:::::There will be a filter cap connected at both ends of the field coil winding, and should be located in one, or two tall, round metal cans with no large openings (but there may be a tiny 1/16" diameter vent hole. These are the caps that will have greatest effect on the hum. Make sure the working voltage of the replacement cap is at least 160 volts.
:::::
:::::The design of your radio is one where that .006 Mfd capacitor is a bypass capacitor to bypass any RF that remains in the audio signal to ground, otherwise it gets disipated as heat in the output transformer. There should be either a cap across the primary winding of the output transformer, or tied to the cathode of the 43; which should be at least .5 Mfd, but that can vary as I had an Air King that only had a .006 Mfd, which is why I will need to do some checking.
:::::
:::::With those big can caps, solder a short terminal strip to the lug out of the bottom so you can isolate the cap from the circuit, yet keep the wires in about the same location. This is because many times those caps can short out.
:::::
:::::
:::::
:::::::on the bottom underside is a 3 embossed or stamped
::::::
:::::::o.k. took out one of the 6d6's and the hum got louder until the filaments cooled off.
:::::::took out the 25z5, hum goes away. Same with the 43,....but wouldn't the hum dissapear anyway taking out the 43 since this is the output tube?
::::::
::::::decided to try a 1uf cap across the 006.uf cap...hum got softer, tried a 10 uf cap, and hum is really soft. so is this good? the 006 cap is from the plate of the 43 to ground or chassis.
::::::
::::alll of the caps are axial lead caps underneath the chassis. they are all tied to ground, just not physically at the same spot. they have been recently replaced by someone. the 006 cap is still original
::
::yes pin 3 of the 43 output tube which I thought was the plate. All tubes are shielded other than the 25z5 and the 43. And in response to johns tube info...dont have spare tubes for this radio so I'll just have to order some. Question is do I order 6c6's, 6d6's or order substitutes(recalling the acticle(bah hum bug) since that article said these tubes had problems
:
:you mentioned that it is not a good idea to pull tubes in a series filament tube set. so what does it harm/do to the 25z5. Would it be similar to when your brother wires your chevy alternator wrong so it puts out max voltage no matter what and you mistakenly take off the battery cable to stop it from frying your battery while you drive somewhere to have it checked out(it fried the alternator instead.......which leads me to next question..if a filament burnd out, wouldnt that be the same as pulling a tube? or is it just a little hard on the set to pull tubes (I did this several times) hope I didnt damage anything

Hi Sean

When you pull a tube other filaments start to cool but the rectifier is still trying to supply current to the speaker field. As filament voltages goes down your 25Z5 can start arcing over. Yes it's the same when a filament burns out but this only happens once.

Norm

::Hi
::
:: A #77 will replace 6C6 and #78 replaces 6D6 if you have those. As John mentioned all AC radios will have some AC hum if you listen close enough. How loud is the hum in your radio? When listening to a station you shouldn't hear hum.
::
:: 6C6 & 6D6 being tall tubes, used in early stages will pick up more hum than some others. Shouldn't be a problem with shields which you have.
::
::Norm
::
::::Hi Sean & John
::::
:::: Use the schematic for 62-104. This may be your radio?
::::
::::http://ww3.nostalgiaair.org/schematics/MWC/_MWC_4-16.gif
::::
:::: I haven't been following but read something about hum. Be sure electrolytic caps have been replaced and old ones removed.
::::
:::: In a series filament wired radio it's not a good idea to pull tubes while it's operating. The rectifier supplies current to your radio. When you pull tubes the rectifier filament starts cooling while it's still trying to supply current. In MW 62-104 one half the rectifier powers your speaker field which is a constant load even while tubes are cooling.
::::
::::Norm
::::
::::::Hi,
::::::When I get little more time to see if there is at least a good representative schematic in Riders.
::::::
::::::The plate voltage that the 43 getsis on end of the primary winding of the output transformer, the "B" voltage from the power supply goes to the other end of that winding. The hum remains because the speaker field coil is part of the filtering and there is a little bit of capacitive coupling between windings of the out put transformer. The hum would be a normal expectation.
::::::
::::::There will be a filter cap connected at both ends of the field coil winding, and should be located in one, or two tall, round metal cans with no large openings (but there may be a tiny 1/16" diameter vent hole. These are the caps that will have greatest effect on the hum. Make sure the working voltage of the replacement cap is at least 160 volts.
::::::
::::::The design of your radio is one where that .006 Mfd capacitor is a bypass capacitor to bypass any RF that remains in the audio signal to ground, otherwise it gets disipated as heat in the output transformer. There should be either a cap across the primary winding of the output transformer, or tied to the cathode of the 43; which should be at least .5 Mfd, but that can vary as I had an Air King that only had a .006 Mfd, which is why I will need to do some checking.
::::::
::::::With those big can caps, solder a short terminal strip to the lug out of the bottom so you can isolate the cap from the circuit, yet keep the wires in about the same location. This is because many times those caps can short out.
::::::
::::::
::::::
::::::::on the bottom underside is a 3 embossed or stamped
:::::::
::::::::o.k. took out one of the 6d6's and the hum got louder until the filaments cooled off.
::::::::took out the 25z5, hum goes away. Same with the 43,....but wouldn't the hum dissapear anyway taking out the 43 since this is the output tube?
:::::::
:::::::decided to try a 1uf cap across the 006.uf cap...hum got softer, tried a 10 uf cap, and hum is really soft. so is this good? the 006 cap is from the plate of the 43 to ground or chassis.
:::::::
:::::alll of the caps are axial lead caps underneath the chassis. they are all tied to ground, just not physically at the same spot. they have been recently replaced by someone. the 006 cap is still original
:::
:::yes pin 3 of the 43 output tube which I thought was the plate. All tubes are shielded other than the 25z5 and the 43. And in response to johns tube info...dont have spare tubes for this radio so I'll just have to order some. Question is do I order 6c6's, 6d6's or order substitutes(recalling the acticle(bah hum bug) since that article said these tubes had problems
::
::you mentioned that it is not a good idea to pull tubes in a series filament tube set. so what does it harm/do to the 25z5. Would it be similar to when your brother wires your chevy alternator wrong so it puts out max voltage no matter what and you mistakenly take off the battery cable to stop it from frying your battery while you drive somewhere to have it checked out(it fried the alternator instead.......which leads me to next question..if a filament burnd out, wouldnt that be the same as pulling a tube? or is it just a little hard on the set to pull tubes (I did this several times) hope I didnt damage anything

:I have a monkey wards airline tabletop radio with tubes 43,25z5, two 6d6's and one 6c6. On the back of one of the transformer cans is penciled 1934 and 05B-A. Last letter could be an R. Doesn,t use a power transformer, just a big long resistor along the back of the chassis. I would guess this is a ballast resistor. Oh well doesnt matter. Just would like to get the hum out of it so it will play
:
:yes the montgomery wards radio lives! Step #1...clean the volume control. Step #2...realize that the volume control was dirty and NOT THE ORIGINAL ONE..since the schematic shows....yes radio fans..a switch(I could never find the on/off switch.) I was fumbling around checking things and a wire broke off around the volume control. Time to consult schematic to find out where it goes....IT DOESNT GO TO VOLUME CONTROL, IT GOES TO THE MISSING SWITCH ON THE BACK OF THE VOLUME CONTROL. The wire was soldered to other wire next to it.
::do I need to replace the volume control anyway? the schematic shows 14.5k ohms. If so, what kind do I get....linear or audio...the one in there now measures at least 23k ohms. When volume is turned up, past 5/8 rotation, it drops station or quits working(you also hear a slight pop when this happens.
:It only gets the strong local station 1480, it also picks up the same station very weak with the dial mid way. So is there any thing else I can do or adjust. I got it to pick 1480 by tweaking the trimmer caps on the tuner. There doesnt seem to be anything else to tweak.

Hi,
If you can find a switch back to fit that control, you can still use the one that is there. One of those wires should be line cord, or from the ballast resistor.

The tuning can be tweaked, the IF cans should have trimmers inside, you should be able to see a screw head underneath a hole in the outer shield.

Tune to one of the weaker stations towards the higher end of the frequency range, not the strongest one. Tweak each IF trimmer, starting from the section closest to the 43 tube. Tweak for strongest single peak. If you find two areas of strong signal, take stronger of two. Work your way back toward the antenna (as it were). Then do this one more time just to make sure you have the single peak on each IF trimmer. You may even need further up the dial to another station if the station you chose is too strong to hear a difference in the peak.

Your reception should be quite good at this point, now tune to a station near the strong one, perhaps 1510, and if you hear that crisply without washover from 1480, you can trim the tuning capacitor so that you can tune the full range of the dial. If 1480 washes over 1510, go back and readjust the trimmers for the IFs until there is minimal washover, and sometimes the remaining washover can be eliminated on the trimmers on the tuning capacitor, but each set will vary in their response to this, and many will not respond.

If you do this at night, most stations are on reduced power and you will many stations, and many very distant, just pick one.

::I have a monkey wards airline tabletop radio with tubes 43,25z5, two 6d6's and one 6c6. On the back of one of the transformer cans is penciled 1934 and 05B-A. Last letter could be an R. Doesn,t use a power transformer, just a big long resistor along the back of the chassis. I would guess this is a ballast resistor. Oh well doesnt matter. Just would like to get the hum out of it so it will play
::
::yes the montgomery wards radio lives! Step #1...clean the volume control. Step #2...realize that the volume control was dirty and NOT THE ORIGINAL ONE..since the schematic shows....yes radio fans..a switch(I could never find the on/off switch.) I was fumbling around checking things and a wire broke off around the volume control. Time to consult schematic to find out where it goes....IT DOESNT GO TO VOLUME CONTROL, IT GOES TO THE MISSING SWITCH ON THE BACK OF THE VOLUME CONTROL. The wire was soldered to other wire next to it.
:::do I need to replace the volume control anyway? the schematic shows 14.5k ohms. If so, what kind do I get....linear or audio...the one in there now measures at least 23k ohms. When volume is turned up, past 5/8 rotation, it drops station or quits working(you also hear a slight pop when this happens.
::It only gets the strong local station 1480, it also picks up the same station very weak with the dial mid way. So is there any thing else I can do or adjust. I got it to pick 1480 by tweaking the trimmer caps on the tuner. There doesnt seem to be anything else to tweak.
:

::I have a monkey wards airline tabletop radio with tubes 43,25z5, two 6d6's and one 6c6. On the back of one of the transformer cans is penciled 1934 and 05B-A. Last letter could be an R. Doesn,t use a power transformer, just a big long resistor along the back of the chassis. I would guess this is a ballast resistor. Oh well doesnt matter. Just would like to get the hum out of it so it will play
::
::yes the montgomery wards radio lives! Step #1...clean the volume control. Step #2...realize that the volume control was dirty and NOT THE ORIGINAL ONE..since the schematic shows....yes radio fans..a switch(I could never find the on/off switch.) I was fumbling around checking things and a wire broke off around the volume control. Time to consult schematic to find out where it goes....IT DOESNT GO TO VOLUME CONTROL, IT GOES TO THE MISSING SWITCH ON THE BACK OF THE VOLUME CONTROL. The wire was soldered to other wire next to it.
:::do I need to replace the volume control anyway? the schematic shows 14.5k ohms. If so, what kind do I get....linear or audio...the one in there now measures at least 23k ohms. When volume is turned up, past 5/8 rotation, it drops station or quits working(you also hear a slight pop when this happens.
::It only gets the strong local station 1480, it also picks up the same station very weak with the dial mid way. So is there any thing else I can do or adjust. I got it to pick 1480 by tweaking the trimmer caps on the tuner. There doesnt seem to be anything else to tweak.
:
:I think the volume control is bad anyway so I am replacing it. Is there anything else I can do to get it to pick up more than the one strong local station?
the only adjustable caps I have already tried....the two on the tuner, and the one on the back of the chassis. I didnt see any adjustment on the i.f. transformers. I looked through all of the holes in the transformer shield on top of the chassis...nothing. The two transformers underneath didnt seem to have any adjustment screw either. The schematic doesn't show any i.f. adjustment either

Hi,
First, try adding a length of wire to the antenna wire/terminal.

If the additional antenna does not improve things, try swapping the two 6D6's with each other to see if that changes anything. One of those may be low, which can cause a loss of signal, if there is no change, the 6C6 may be the low tube.

There is a third adjustable cap in the oscillator section, which is a "Padder" for the low end of the tuning range, which "may" have been removed from the radio by the previous owner.

::I think the volume control is bad anyway so I am replacing it. Is there anything else I can do to get it to pick up more than the one strong local station?
:the only adjustable caps I have already tried....the two on the tuner, and the one on the back of the chassis. I didnt see any adjustment on the i.f. transformers. I looked through all of the holes in the transformer shield on top of the chassis...nothing. The two transformers underneath didnt seem to have any adjustment screw either. The schematic doesn't show any i.f. adjustment either