I've been restoring my Silvertone Model 1914 Console Radio - 6 tubes (75, 84, 6F6, 6C5, 6K7, 6A7). I finished recapping it and it worked well. Then, I went to clean it. Big mistake. Now, it doesn't work. Gee... I can always find some way to ruin a radio project that should take only a few hours. I've re-checked all of the tubes, but all I get is a pop or click when I probe around under the chassis. Obviously, in my cleaning, I damaged something. This particular set uses one fixed and one moveable coil for volume control in place of a potentiometer. I would like to check it but I don't know what to do, I've never ran into one before. The voltage stays constant regardless of the position of the coil, but is this what it is supposed to do? The schematics here are of no help because there is no actual schematic posted for my model. The chassis diagrams differ from my chassis to make matters worse. Does anyone have a schematic that they could send me? Any help would be much appreciated.
Jack
Use the following schematic:
http://www.nostalgiaair.org/Riders/showinfo.asp?PATH=SRC&IMG=_SRC_6-45.gif&INF=1914
Look for something that might have come lose. If nothing is found measure B+ voltages as shown on the above schematic.
Norm
:Hello,
:
:I've been restoring my Silvertone Model 1914 Console Radio - 6 tubes (75, 84, 6F6, 6C5, 6K7, 6A7). I finished recapping it and it worked well. Then, I went to clean it. Big mistake. Now, it doesn't work. Gee... I can always find some way to ruin a radio project that should take only a few hours. I've re-checked all of the tubes, but all I get is a pop or click when I probe around under the chassis. Obviously, in my cleaning, I damaged something. This particular set uses one fixed and one moveable coil for volume control in place of a potentiometer. I would like to check it but I don't know what to do, I've never ran into one before. The voltage stays constant regardless of the position of the coil, but is this what it is supposed to do? The schematics here are of no help because there is no actual schematic posted for my model. The chassis diagrams differ from my chassis to make matters worse. Does anyone have a schematic that they could send me? Any help would be much appreciated.
:
:Jack
I got the radio to work again, but the volume is weak. I moved the connector on the fixed volume coil and I found it was loose. (Both are actually loose.) The volume level changed and the power transformer quickly got really hot. I assume that there is a short in one or both of the coils. Can I just take the easy route and replace the coils with a potentiometer?
:Hello,
:
:I've been restoring my Silvertone Model 1914 Console Radio - 6 tubes (75, 84, 6F6, 6C5, 6K7, 6A7). I finished recapping it and it worked well. Then, I went to clean it. Big mistake. Now, it doesn't work. Gee... I can always find some way to ruin a radio project that should take only a few hours. I've re-checked all of the tubes, but all I get is a pop or click when I probe around under the chassis. Obviously, in my cleaning, I damaged something. This particular set uses one fixed and one moveable coil for volume control in place of a potentiometer. I would like to check it but I don't know what to do, I've never ran into one before. The voltage stays constant regardless of the position of the coil, but is this what it is supposed to do? The schematics here are of no help because there is no actual schematic posted for my model. The chassis diagrams differ from my chassis to make matters worse. Does anyone have a schematic that they could send me? Any help would be much appreciated.
:
:Jack
Don't operate a radio when the power transformer heats fast.. Replace electrolytic filter caps. Be sure replacements have same of higher voltage rating and check polarity.
Check the 84 tube for shorts. A shorted tube can damage the power transormer. Operate the radio without the 84. Your power transformer should not get hot.
Norm
:Update -
:
:I got the radio to work again, but the volume is weak. I moved the connector on the fixed volume coil and I found it was loose. (Both are actually loose.) The volume level changed and the power transformer quickly got really hot. I assume that there is a short in one or both of the coils. Can I just take the easy route and replace the coils with a potentiometer?
:
::Hello,
::
::I've been restoring my Silvertone Model 1914 Console Radio - 6 tubes (75, 84, 6F6, 6C5, 6K7, 6A7). I finished recapping it and it worked well. Then, I went to clean it. Big mistake. Now, it doesn't work. Gee... I can always find some way to ruin a radio project that should take only a few hours. I've re-checked all of the tubes, but all I get is a pop or click when I probe around under the chassis. Obviously, in my cleaning, I damaged something. This particular set uses one fixed and one moveable coil for volume control in place of a potentiometer. I would like to check it but I don't know what to do, I've never ran into one before. The voltage stays constant regardless of the position of the coil, but is this what it is supposed to do? The schematics here are of no help because there is no actual schematic posted for my model. The chassis diagrams differ from my chassis to make matters worse. Does anyone have a schematic that they could send me? Any help would be much appreciated.
::
::Jack
:Jack
:
: Don't operate a radio when the power transformer heats fast.. Replace electrolytic filter caps. Be sure replacements have same of higher voltage rating and check polarity.
:
: Check the 84 tube for shorts. A shorted tube can damage the power transormer. Operate the radio without the 84. Your power transformer should not get hot.
:
:Norm
:
::Update -
::
::I got the radio to work again, but the volume is weak. I moved the connector on the fixed volume coil and I found it was loose. (Both are actually loose.) The volume level changed and the power transformer quickly got really hot. I assume that there is a short in one or both of the coils. Can I just take the easy route and replace the coils with a potentiometer?
::
:::Hello,
:::
:::I've been restoring my Silvertone Model 1914 Console Radio - 6 tubes (75, 84, 6F6, 6C5, 6K7, 6A7). I finished recapping it and it worked well. Then, I went to clean it. Big mistake. Now, it doesn't work. Gee... I can always find some way to ruin a radio project that should take only a few hours. I've re-checked all of the tubes, but all I get is a pop or click when I probe around under the chassis. Obviously, in my cleaning, I damaged something. This particular set uses one fixed and one moveable coil for volume control in place of a potentiometer. I would like to check it but I don't know what to do, I've never ran into one before. The voltage stays constant regardless of the position of the coil, but is this what it is supposed to do? The schematics here are of no help because there is no actual schematic posted for my model. The chassis diagrams differ from my chassis to make matters worse. Does anyone have a schematic that they could send me? Any help would be much appreciated.
:::
:::Jack
I've already replaced the electrolytics - both with 10mfd. 450v. electrolytics. The 84 seems to be ok, but I did notice that when I bought the radio, the transformer was coated in wax. This indicates to me that there may have been past problems... I'll check for shorts as soon as I get time and I'll get back to you.
Jack
:Hi Jack, With the set unplugged (no power) measure from B+ to chassis for shorts or low resistance. If it's low, trace along to find the short, check around the moving coil assembly if you suspect that. Disconnect wiring to break and isolate parts of the circuit if necessary to track it down. Don't run the set with an overload, it will cause damage. Follow Norm's advice and check electrolytics.
:Don Black.
:
::Jack
::
:: Don't operate a radio when the power transformer heats fast.. Replace electrolytic filter caps. Be sure replacements have same of higher voltage rating and check polarity.
::
:: Check the 84 tube for shorts. A shorted tube can damage the power transormer. Operate the radio without the 84. Your power transformer should not get hot.
::
::Norm
::
:::Update -
:::
:::I got the radio to work again, but the volume is weak. I moved the connector on the fixed volume coil and I found it was loose. (Both are actually loose.) The volume level changed and the power transformer quickly got really hot. I assume that there is a short in one or both of the coils. Can I just take the easy route and replace the coils with a potentiometer?
:::
::::Hello,
::::
::::I've been restoring my Silvertone Model 1914 Console Radio - 6 tubes (75, 84, 6F6, 6C5, 6K7, 6A7). I finished recapping it and it worked well. Then, I went to clean it. Big mistake. Now, it doesn't work. Gee... I can always find some way to ruin a radio project that should take only a few hours. I've re-checked all of the tubes, but all I get is a pop or click when I probe around under the chassis. Obviously, in my cleaning, I damaged something. This particular set uses one fixed and one moveable coil for volume control in place of a potentiometer. I would like to check it but I don't know what to do, I've never ran into one before. The voltage stays constant regardless of the position of the coil, but is this what it is supposed to do? The schematics here are of no help because there is no actual schematic posted for my model. The chassis diagrams differ from my chassis to make matters worse. Does anyone have a schematic that they could send me? Any help would be much appreciated.
::::
::::Jack
I checked the B+ and didn't find any shorts. I checked the 84 again and didn't find any shorts there but I replaced it anyways. I carefully powered it up on the variac with a 1 amp fuse and this time around the transformer didn't get hot. Either I knocked off some excess solder from the re-cap somewhere, or I have an off and on short. Is there anything I can do to reglue the loose volume coils? I could take the coil off of its mounting plate and check to make sure the wires are not crossing, but would this effect the operation of the coils?
Jack
:Hello,
:
:I've already replaced the electrolytics - both with 10mfd. 450v. electrolytics. The 84 seems to be ok, but I did notice that when I bought the radio, the transformer was coated in wax. This indicates to me that there may have been past problems... I'll check for shorts as soon as I get time and I'll get back to you.
:
:Jack
:
::Hi Jack, With the set unplugged (no power) measure from B+ to chassis for shorts or low resistance. If it's low, trace along to find the short, check around the moving coil assembly if you suspect that. Disconnect wiring to break and isolate parts of the circuit if necessary to track it down. Don't run the set with an overload, it will cause damage. Follow Norm's advice and check electrolytics.
::Don Black.
::
:::Jack
:::
::: Don't operate a radio when the power transformer heats fast.. Replace electrolytic filter caps. Be sure replacements have same of higher voltage rating and check polarity.
:::
::: Check the 84 tube for shorts. A shorted tube can damage the power transormer. Operate the radio without the 84. Your power transformer should not get hot.
:::
:::Norm
:::
::::Update -
::::
::::I got the radio to work again, but the volume is weak. I moved the connector on the fixed volume coil and I found it was loose. (Both are actually loose.) The volume level changed and the power transformer quickly got really hot. I assume that there is a short in one or both of the coils. Can I just take the easy route and replace the coils with a potentiometer?
::::
:::::Hello,
:::::
:::::I've been restoring my Silvertone Model 1914 Console Radio - 6 tubes (75, 84, 6F6, 6C5, 6K7, 6A7). I finished recapping it and it worked well. Then, I went to clean it. Big mistake. Now, it doesn't work. Gee... I can always find some way to ruin a radio project that should take only a few hours. I've re-checked all of the tubes, but all I get is a pop or click when I probe around under the chassis. Obviously, in my cleaning, I damaged something. This particular set uses one fixed and one moveable coil for volume control in place of a potentiometer. I would like to check it but I don't know what to do, I've never ran into one before. The voltage stays constant regardless of the position of the coil, but is this what it is supposed to do? The schematics here are of no help because there is no actual schematic posted for my model. The chassis diagrams differ from my chassis to make matters worse. Does anyone have a schematic that they could send me? Any help would be much appreciated.
:::::
:::::Jack