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TO REFINISH OR NOT TO REFINISH
3/11/2002 3:35:31 PMChristopher Ross
I am now the proud owner of a Crosley 5M3 fiver. The oringial lacquer finish is about one third gone. The original veneer is about 1/16 inch maple but it is covered with a lacquer that somehow includes a fake wood grain that looks like burled butternut. I suspect it cannot be repaired to an acceptable level. I would like to know how the original surface was manufactured (I don't think it is lacquered covered paper because it is so thin) Can it be repaired and how and if not should I re-veneer it or not? Opinons would be greatly appreciated.
3/12/2002 10:49:40 AMJohn McPherson
Hi,
Much of the burl effect and fake wood appearance was done with lacquer too. In some cases it was done by hand, others were done with stencil. The plus side is that lacquer will allow you to "melt in" the repair if you have the right solvent to soften the old laquer adequately. Auto parts stores that carry automotive lacquers are your best bet, but it will be trial and error to find the right one as each is formulated differently. But use Nitro-cellulose lacquer as the final finish, as it was the original.

At present I have experimental approach to some of the burl repair, but only preliminary tests have been promising, I have not had a chance to do a full radio at this time, due to a lack of time, however, if you seal the flaked portion of the surface with something like Testor's "Dull coat Lacquer", you can see if you can find art markers that match the burling. Once matched, the damaged area gets spot repaired with a brush (to raise the level of the are where the lacquer chipped out. Wet sand the area, then give one or two coats of sprayed on lacquer.

This is only experimental at this time, I have not had a chance to de-bug the approach. The wet sanding is done with water, and paer grades of 320, 400, 800, and maybe 1000 if available. If you apply a coat of paste wax after sanding with 800, you get an appearance that is original for many radios. If you need the extra gloss, use the 1000 grit, followed by automotive polishing compounds.

If the old lacquer has started to delaminate from the wood, first try brushing the area with high working temp lacquer reducer, and let it dry. This will usually re-adhear lacquer.

I would be inclined to leave it alone if it is not noticable. Only repair the veneer if there are sections that are gone, or if it has delaminated.

: I am now the proud owner of a Crosley 5M3 fiver. The oringial lacquer finish is about one third gone. The original veneer is about 1/16 inch maple but it is covered with a lacquer that somehow includes a fake wood grain that looks like burled butternut. I suspect it cannot be repaired to an acceptable level. I would like to know how the original surface was manufactured (I don't think it is lacquered covered paper because it is so thin) Can it be repaired and how and if not should I re-veneer it or not? Opinons would be greatly appreciated.



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